Your father was born 25 September, 1927. Mine was born 30 December 1927 and died (in 1995) 25 September! Lovely 128! I didn't know about the tube-tip knee controller either. If you don't have the knee controller you can use a foot controller to operate the machine if the socket matches.
Love me a knee bar controller. My 1937 128 had this same type, in a bentwood case, when I got it. I've since put in in a cabinet with a Kenmore knee controller. I don't know if was me, or maybe things were just worn out but it seemed really touchy to use. The swing on the Kenmore controller is much wider and easier to control. If it was 1937, though, and I was in the market for a portable machine, I'd be psyched if I could get one with a knee bar no matter its faults.
As a creative solution, I’ve mounted my electronic foot controller inside my cabinet for my 201-2 so as to control via my knee. It’s quite successful. 🥰
Thank you for your very helpful video! I just inherited my grandmother's 128 - almost identical to yours (same decals, Chicago plugs, etc.)! Although she runs, she runs in very slow motion. Any ideas for where we would start troubleshooting? Such a treasure!!! Thanks in advance for your help!
My 99 is a 1902 I have to get it rewired. The knee bar is missing and the screw for the cover for the pedal is bent. Thank you for the information on knee bar. I didn't know there were two types. Where is a good after market for a knee bar. Again thank you for the information.
Great channel Bob. My question is regarding pairing the 0.6 knee lever motor controller with a more powerful (higher amperage motor) Let's say 1.5 amps. Will the .6 amp in the control prevent the full 1.5 amps from reaching the pulley? THANKS!
Interesting, I have a UK manufactured Class 99-13 a few years newer (Dec 1937) than this one, and the controller on it is fully boxed in Bakelite. Even the block that the bell crank mechanism attaches to is made of Bakelite, I wonder if this was done to improve electrical safety, given the higher voltages (150-250 volts) the label on the enclosure says it was designed for.
I think the time it was made has more to do with the style kneebar than the model as I have a AB 99 with the same controller, case and kneebar as your 128.
I just bought one of these in “mint” condition as a result of seeing this video. Is there a difference between 99 and 99K? I know the website to look up their numbers for date but I’m confused on how to know model names. Is there a website that you know to reference model names?
Some can be, but others aren't worth the effort. The "good ones" use a control device similar to the standard singer foor controller with the carbon disks. The "bad ones" are wire wound with brass wiper contacts - They often are worn out beyond servicability.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop i found one off your videos that helped, it took me ages cleaning all the indervidual parts but thanks it now works, I did have to rewire it too.
Your father was born 25 September, 1927. Mine was born 30 December 1927 and died (in 1995) 25 September!
Lovely 128! I didn't know about the tube-tip knee controller either.
If you don't have the knee controller you can use a foot controller to operate the machine if the socket matches.
Love me a knee bar controller. My 1937 128 had this same type, in a bentwood case, when I got it. I've since put in in a cabinet with a Kenmore knee controller. I don't know if was me, or maybe things were just worn out but it seemed really touchy to use. The swing on the Kenmore controller is much wider and easier to control. If it was 1937, though, and I was in the market for a portable machine, I'd be psyched if I could get one with a knee bar no matter its faults.
Thank you! Amazing video as always
Also beautiful machines.
As a creative solution, I’ve mounted my electronic foot controller inside my cabinet for my 201-2 so as to control via my knee. It’s quite successful. 🥰
That's always an excellent option!
Thank you for your very helpful video! I just inherited my grandmother's 128 - almost identical to yours (same decals, Chicago plugs, etc.)! Although she runs, she runs in very slow motion. Any ideas for where we would start troubleshooting? Such a treasure!!! Thanks in advance for your help!
My 99 is a 1902 I have to get it rewired. The knee bar is missing and the screw for the cover for the pedal is bent. Thank you for the information on knee bar. I didn't know there were two types. Where is a good after market for a knee bar. Again thank you for the information.
Worth noting that the 201/66/15 machines have slightly longer knee levers than the 99/128 machines.
I have a 1926 AB knee bar machine, I made a controller of a socket and 1/4inch sq. Stock, it works
great topic, always wondered what difference was
Thank you from Finland.
Great channel Bob. My question is regarding pairing the 0.6 knee lever motor controller with a more powerful (higher amperage motor) Let's say 1.5 amps. Will the .6 amp in the control prevent the full 1.5 amps from reaching the pulley? THANKS!
Interesting, I have a UK manufactured Class 99-13 a few years newer (Dec 1937) than this one, and the controller on it is fully boxed in Bakelite. Even the block that the bell crank mechanism attaches to is made of Bakelite, I wonder if this was done to improve electrical safety, given the higher voltages (150-250 volts) the label on the enclosure says it was designed for.
مكنة سنجر رهابة ورأئعة للغاية
I think the time it was made has more to do with the style kneebar than the model as I have a AB 99 with the same controller, case and kneebar as your 128.
Great video Bob. Which site do you use to get the serial number issuance date?
@denisboulard3206
International Sewing Machine Collectors' Society website has a Singer Serial Number decoding chart which should show you
I just bought one of these in “mint” condition as a result of seeing this video. Is there a difference between 99 and 99K? I know the website to look up their numbers for date but I’m confused on how to know model names. Is there a website that you know to reference model names?
The k designation means it was made in the UK 🇬🇧
Hi Bob, I have recently got one of these but the power controller inside the cabinet dose not work , can you suggest any thing? can it be repaired?
Some can be, but others aren't worth the effort. The "good ones" use a control device similar to the standard singer foor controller with the carbon disks. The "bad ones" are wire wound with brass wiper contacts - They often are worn out beyond servicability.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop i found one off your videos that helped, it took me ages cleaning all the indervidual parts but thanks it now works, I did have to rewire it too.
I missed knee pedal where i get ?