Several things I'd like to say and add.. 1) Great video. Im going to take a lot of ideas for my DIY extruder. 2) A lot of wood bore bits measure hole diameter at the tip of the bit, where they are usually a hair wider, to allow clearance for the auger portion of the bit to remove chips. As for the flex, I don't think that would be a problem and potentially would help to scrape any leftover pieces that get here to the side of the barrel as it flexes more. 3) Plastic augurs are very expensive. I went with a Masonry Hammer Drill Bit, and cut off the cutting tip. This makes a large very heavy duty augur. 4) I went with tapered roller bearings in the rear instead of thrust bearings as tapers ares cheaper, and also offer direction load support and centering.
I searched alot for a video like this , thank you alot for that clarification & writing down everything in detail even the measurement & the way to do it.
Thank you for the excellent video. Yes, screw design is very important for plastic extrusion. There are even a few variations similar to that plastic screw depending on the specific type of polymer that is being used 🙂 Keep up the good work 👌
It's best to minimize the amount of "dead space" between the tip of the screw and the die (nozzle). I think you want enough to make sure the plastic can flow to the extrusion die and not much more. Maybe leave room for a "breaker plate" but 2.5cm is far more than needed for a breaker plate.
Thanks for your video. It is great to choose the screw for making filament extruder. I have some questions 1) how can buy plastic screw? I want to try to use commercial one. 2) if i want to extrude tough materials, what type of screw is good to me? (High frequent pitch or Low frequent pitch?)
The wood screw is less than 20mm because that's the size hole it drills, not the promised diameter of the tool. You can see the step near the tip where it becomes larger; this is where the cutting happens, and the rest of the drill is just there to transport swarf out of the hole.
You're right, that's why she's not as good as a screw, she hardly builds up any pressure. But for testing it is enough later if you want to get better you can replace it
Nice explanation, Plastic Screw is much better , One thing is the type of steel and alloy , its better since wood screw would be of carbon steel or less resistance to withstand ware and pressure which at the end may end damaging the barrel if piece is broken while in process. As you mention tolerance in plastic screw is much better, the design is made for non Newtonian liquids flow. Other important thing you mentioned is about the air , some big exturders for other applications have vents to allow air to escape (vented barrel... some have vacuum system to extract air or vapor) , the problem of leaving bubbles in the extrudate is that it may lower quality of filament or may cause burnt material or end product with lower mechanical properties. I really liked your step by step explanation. Congrats!
Good explanation man, After 5 years of your finding.. Do you have any suggestions to improve the Drill wood screw to change its disadvantage to advantage?
I have tried various drill bits from wood drill bits to masonry drill bits and special drill bits. All have the same problem the geometry is not 100% developed for extrusion. so if you want to make good filament you have to spend money and buy a real screw
Btw if anyone wants an idea thats cheap you can buy yourself a pellet extruder for a Traeger Grill. This would work for a 3d printer sized extruder or a small injection mold machine. Keep in mind many augers need to be reversed to work properly so they would require some type of modifying. A drill walks chips toward you on a right hand move so you’d have to turn it around to optimize the use of the push designed in the blade.
I personally like the Dewalt DW1687 1”x17” drill auger. Far as wood vs plastic tolerance this is a given. One is considered a precision machine part the other is meant to drill semi accurate holes in wood. Couple considerations. You would probably want to find as close a tight fitting tube as you could. You may also be able to modify the wood drill toward the end by using a high temp epoxy or carefully brazing fillers. All depends how mechanical you are. For example if the tube were to get narrow or more conical, and you ground down the drill to taper it might amplify the compressive push.
This wild. Last night I was looking at the single screw and extruder and was thinking to myself. "There is absolutely no reason why this is a huge, bulky industrial machine. Time to minuturize its size and power draw.
I'm pretty sure there is a reason in terms of throughput or quality, people don't spend 500 000 on industrial size machines and the space required for fun, but for hobbyists a desktop machine is almost certainly enough
May I suggest that you also share the files for machined parts as STEP files. The STL file format is great for 3D printing, but is a poor format to use as a basis for accurate machining. Thanks
@Deputy Dawg thanks for your constructive comment! In one point you are right, means the frontend of the drill is wider then the other end. But what i maybe wasnt more clear to show was that their is a curve inside the long distance. This would ruin the whole barrel after a while. Means in the mid on the wood drill was a point which connects to the barrel while the other end was without any contact. The main thing is what i wrote in the conclusion point 1 and point 2 that you have to find first a good wood drill without curve, and then optimize the barrel to this wood drill, so that they fit perfectly together. And because this i wrote in another point that i cant guarantee that they will fit for a platic-screw after it, so that a change from Wood Drill to Plastic-Screw will be without problems. I will try to answer in one of the next videos to it and make a screenshot of your comment to make it clear again. Do you have other questions which can answer in the next videos? Greetings Ron
I'm having a giant urge to build an extruder. I have time, tools and raw materials in the form of scrap metals that I can cast and shape. I have two questions. 1) Is Aluminum too soft to use to make the shaft and plastic screw? 2) Can a couple cartridge heaters fitted in custom barrel collars with a pid controller produce as good a result as the clamp heaters you show?
How about using a very large wood screw (piano screw) and filling in the space between the threads with clay. Then casting an aluminium chamber round the outside, so you would have a tapered chamber.
I´m so happy about your build :)... I think you forgot to but the link from the motor in the description. Or what gearbox it is? Happy to see the finally version soon. And thanks a lot for the infos about the screws! I think I will try first the wood screw, because of money..
In the folder where the STL files are located there is also an Excel file. In the Excel file you will find a parts list. It will be extended with every video.
hi, first of all video really helpful. I want to learn thats; 1) Everything is ready, I will use SDS max drill bit. 35mm diameter, 450mm usable length, and 120mm drill bit back end and back end diameter 18mm. (socket part). reducer output is also 18 mm. Both are the same diameter. What would you recommend me to do? I am just lacking on this subject, and I just cannot make interconnections with AC motor. Its mean i can not coupled with reducer (18mm output) drill bit of back(18mm) 2) I want to learn that; How do I couple a drill bit with a diameter of 18mm the back with the motor? What kind of intermediate apparatus should I use? You know the drill bit is designed for the drill. thats two have different entrances.
Hello , what motor do you recomended for me and rpm? If I have screw 25mm and 600mm long. Do you think 750watt with reduction lets say 45rmp and torque 120Nm will be enought for lets say 5kg /per hour for PLA? Thank you. Aleš
hi. tolles Video, Danke. habe eine Frage, von wo haben Sie die Filamentscrew Bekommen bzw gekauft, und an dem Nema 23 der Antrieb für die Fillament Screw, Welche Übersetzung haben sie da gewählt Gruß
I have a question about the extruding screw is it right as ron declares with the drill bit i always have air inside the filament ? And as next question, how much filament per hour did you think i get whith an auger dimensions 20 x 370mm ?
If you use a drill that has no compression zone, it will push the air forward. If you have a good drill, it may be that you get little air forward and your filament has few air inclusions. A professional screw has 3 zones and therefore always take them if your financial framework allows it.
very useful video, first of all thanks. 1).Now, I want to use a 20mm diameter wood drill bit, and it's 500mm long, barrel diameter 25 or 30mm, which one should I choose? actually I want to make small production. 2). What diameter should the nozzle mouth be for 1.75 mm filament? 1.75 mm? , 1.70 mm?, 1.65 mm?.... for 1.75mm filament
For a wood drill it does not have to be long because it does not compact. Try to build in a 3 zone screw instead, you will save yourself a lot of frustration. The nozzle diameter depends on the material you want to use.
@@Werbewunder thank you for reply, so can i use standart AC motor 100/200 watt with reducer and with speed control panel? What range of rpm do you recommend? 20, 30, 50 , 60 rpm? i will use speed control
The plastic screw is designed to mix the granulated plastic as well as create sheer. Which causes friction that helps melt the plastic. In injection molding a large portion of the heat used to melt the plastic comes from the friction and not the heater bands.
Bonjour je suis en train de fabriquer un extrudeur pla en 1.75 mm j'ai actuellement des souci sur le faite d'extraire le fil . Avec vous une adresse pour le plastic screw car j'ai de mauvais résultats avec wood drill 20mm. Cordialement
Can i test it ? I work in the plastics industry. I can test it with high quality pa 6 , pa 6.6 in a huge variety of colors and percentages of mineral and glas fiber and so on. I really want to test it and maybe we can work together and find some upgrades
@@Werbewunder verschiedene Farben und Prozente Glasfaser oder Mineral oder schlagzäh. Wir stellen hunderte verschiedene Produkte her in Granulat Form die man alle Testen könnte
Hello dear friend. I have a problem! Filament thickness is calibrated from 1.40-1.80mm. I wanted to know if this is from a drill for wood (screw)? Because all the other parts are working fine.
Tolles Video. Aber bitte, nenn das Loch doch hole, nicht hul. Also quasi "houl" gesprochen, mit der Betonung auf dem O. Klingt ja fürchterlich sonst...
Wäre es nicht besser wenn das Rohr nicht waagrecht ist sondern etwa 20- 45 Grad. Damit die Förderschnecke nicht so viel Kraft aufwenden muss? Könnte man auch Plastikflaschen benutzen?
Einer meiner ersten Extruder habe ich senkrecht gestellt und die Erdanziehung übernimmt die filamentstärken Regulierung. schau dir mal die Videos an sind schon was älter
I have a Filastruder. I'd love to be able to drop in a compression screw to replace the auger. Does anyone know of a place that makes/sells compatible compression screws?
Cool, where can i buy the plasic screw / extruder screw? i've searched on eBay, but no results... me german too. So can you give me a hint in German? Thx alot
Kannst du vllt. ein video machen wo du einen kosten und arbeit unintensiven filament desktop extruder baust den jeder machen kann (auch wer nicht schweissen kann ) und z.b. den code für den arduino verlinkst bin erst zwölf und hab mir von meinem taschengeld vor etwa einem jahr einen anet A8 gekauft und zwischenzeitlich ein upgrade auf den guten alten ender 3 gemacht nur ist filament so ******** teuer. zurzeit habe ich einen anlieferer wo das kilo nur 12,50 euro kostet aber ich will einfach ein bisschen nachhaltiger sein
![DIY Desktop Filament Extruder #7 [GERMAN] Erster Filament Testlauf](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/7x609_k9sxs/mqdefault.jpg)
![DIY Desktop Filament Extruder #7 [GERMAN] Erster Filament Testlauf](/img/tr.png)
Several things I'd like to say and add..
1) Great video. Im going to take a lot of ideas for my DIY extruder.
2) A lot of wood bore bits measure hole diameter at the tip of the bit, where they are usually a hair wider, to allow clearance for the auger portion of the bit to remove chips. As for the flex, I don't think that would be a problem and potentially would help to scrape any leftover pieces that get here to the side of the barrel as it flexes more.
3) Plastic augurs are very expensive. I went with a Masonry Hammer Drill Bit, and cut off the cutting tip. This makes a large very heavy duty augur.
4) I went with tapered roller bearings in the rear instead of thrust bearings as tapers ares cheaper, and also offer direction load support and centering.
Is the masonry bit’s angle shallow enough to work?
If you have a lathe you can modify or make your own screw.
I searched alot for a video like this , thank you alot for that clarification & writing down everything in detail even the measurement & the way to do it.
Thank you for the excellent video. Yes, screw design is very important for plastic extrusion. There are even a few variations similar to that plastic screw depending on the specific type of polymer that is being used 🙂 Keep up the good work 👌
It's best to minimize the amount of "dead space" between the tip of the screw and the die (nozzle). I think you want enough to make sure the plastic can flow to the extrusion die and not much more. Maybe leave room for a "breaker plate" but 2.5cm is far more than needed for a breaker plate.
Thanks for your video. It is great to choose the screw for making filament extruder.
I have some questions
1) how can buy plastic screw? I want to try to use commercial one.
2) if i want to extrude tough materials, what type of screw is good to me? (High frequent pitch or Low frequent pitch?)
Germans - Invented the word quality. Great machine and wonderful explanation. Thank you :)
The wood screw is less than 20mm because that's the size hole it drills, not the promised diameter of the tool. You can see the step near the tip where it becomes larger; this is where the cutting happens, and the rest of the drill is just there to transport swarf out of the hole.
You're right, that's why she's not as good as a screw, she hardly builds up any pressure. But for testing it is enough later if you want to get better you can replace it
Thanks for the idea bro. I will make the same idea.
No se ingles pero video muy interesante, gracias. Saludos desde Argentina.
Nice explanation, Plastic Screw is much better , One thing is the type of steel and alloy , its better since wood screw would be of carbon steel or less resistance to withstand ware and pressure which at the end may end damaging the barrel if piece is broken while in process. As you mention tolerance in plastic screw is much better, the design is made for non Newtonian liquids flow. Other important thing you mentioned is about the air , some big exturders for other applications have vents to allow air to escape (vented barrel... some have vacuum system to extract air or vapor) , the problem of leaving bubbles in the extrudate is that it may lower quality of filament or may cause burnt material or end product with lower mechanical properties. I really liked your step by step explanation. Congrats!
Good explanation man,
After 5 years of your finding.. Do you have any suggestions to improve the Drill wood screw to change its disadvantage to advantage?
I have tried various drill bits from wood drill bits to masonry drill bits and special drill bits. All have the same problem the geometry is not 100% developed for extrusion. so if you want to make good filament you have to spend money and buy a real screw
Excellent video. Greetings from Venezuela.
Perfect explanation. Thanks for your video
Great explanation! Superb
Congratulations, Very well explained. I would like to know How do you Control the motor rotation. What you use for It?
feeb back drive stepper motor
Btw if anyone wants an idea thats cheap you can buy yourself a pellet extruder for a Traeger Grill. This would work for a 3d printer sized extruder or a small injection mold machine.
Keep in mind many augers need to be reversed to work properly so they would require some type of modifying.
A drill walks chips toward you on a right hand move so you’d have to turn it around to optimize the use of the push designed in the blade.
I personally like the Dewalt DW1687 1”x17” drill auger.
Far as wood vs plastic tolerance this is a given. One is considered a precision machine part the other is meant to drill semi accurate holes in wood.
Couple considerations. You would probably want to find as close a tight fitting tube as you could. You may also be able to modify the wood drill toward the end by using a high temp epoxy or carefully brazing fillers. All depends how mechanical you are.
For example if the tube were to get narrow or more conical, and you ground down the drill to taper it might amplify the compressive push.
Very informative, I wish I could buy a plastic screw. Thank you
This wild. Last night I was looking at the single screw and extruder and was thinking to myself.
"There is absolutely no reason why this is a huge, bulky industrial machine.
Time to minuturize its size and power draw.
I'm pretty sure there is a reason in terms of throughput or quality, people don't spend 500 000 on industrial size machines and the space required for fun, but for hobbyists a desktop machine is almost certainly enough
thanks for the video and effort put in!
Great video. Any suggestions on (less) expensive compression screws?
Very good information.
Thanks for your help
May I suggest that you also share the files for machined parts as STEP files. The STL file format is great for 3D printing, but is a poor format to use as a basis for accurate machining. Thanks
Hello Ron, where someone can buy compression screw in Europe? Where you got yours from? Thank you
You are great Allah bless you from Makkah
thanks for your kind advice.
Very good job dear 👍👍👍
Very Thorough. Thank you sir.
The wood drill diameter is at the cutting tip and gets smaller so there is some clearance when drilling.
@Deputy Dawg thanks for your constructive comment! In one point you are right, means the frontend of the drill is wider then the other end. But what i maybe wasnt more clear to show was that their is a curve inside the long distance. This would ruin the whole barrel after a while. Means in the mid on the wood drill was a point which connects to the barrel while the other end was without any contact. The main thing is what i wrote in the conclusion point 1 and point 2 that you have to find first a good wood drill without curve, and then optimize the barrel to this wood drill, so that they fit perfectly together. And because this i wrote in another point that i cant guarantee that they will fit for a platic-screw after it, so that a change from Wood Drill to Plastic-Screw will be without problems. I will try to answer in one of the next videos to it and make a screenshot of your comment to make it clear again. Do you have other questions which can answer in the next videos? Greetings Ron
Hallo, ein echt cooles Projekt. Daumen hoch. Es wäre sehr interessant, wo Du den Plastic Screw her hast. LG
Gibt's als Ersatzteil auf AliExprss ... so um die EUR 17 für Edelstahl, gehärtet kost' so um die 23... (aus der Erinnerung)
Thank you very much yiy are genius
interesting bud keep up the good work! it's like a jet turbine compressor shaft but for plastic
Yes a turbine compression is a "bit" more complicated :-) But its right it compress the space it has for the granulate. :-)
oh geez haha @@Werbewunder
I'm having a giant urge to build an extruder. I have time, tools and raw materials in the form of scrap metals that I can cast and shape. I have two questions.
1) Is Aluminum too soft to use to make the shaft and plastic screw?
2) Can a couple cartridge heaters fitted in custom barrel collars with a pid controller produce as good a result as the clamp heaters you show?
Aluminum will not hold the size tolerance needed as the temperature changes. As long as the heat is constant, any heat source would work. Good luck.
Thank you very much for your good job...
How about using a very large wood screw (piano screw) and filling in the space between the threads with clay. Then casting an aluminium chamber round the outside, so you would have a tapered chamber.
AMAZING ONE🍻
Where did you get the "plastic screw"?
What heater element did you use and where can I get some?
Hi, great video. where did you buy that plastic screw? how to find it? thank you.
info@3dfoxlab.com
Hi did u do the machine?
Greatest. good job sir
How to make reliable DIY filament puller and winder?
Hello, did you build the barrel or bought it?
I´m so happy about your build :)... I think you forgot to but the link from the motor in the description. Or what gearbox it is? Happy to see the finally version soon. And thanks a lot for the infos about the screws! I think I will try first the wood screw, because of money..
In the description of the video is the link from Gdrive there are all the data up to now point in it
In the folder where the STL files are located there is also an Excel file. In the Excel file you will find a parts list. It will be extended with every video.
@@Werbewunder i can see just nema17 in the list, neither motor23 nor gearbox, thx
For the Screw nema 23 30:1 ratio for the >puller normal nema 17@@honzastrnad4436
What kind of Heat unit is that? Do you have the link?
Hello! You can use grasshopper to make animations in rhino
hi, first of all video really helpful.
I want to learn thats;
1) Everything is ready, I will use SDS max drill bit. 35mm diameter, 450mm usable length, and 120mm drill bit back end and back end diameter 18mm. (socket part). reducer output is also 18 mm. Both are the same diameter. What would you recommend me to do? I am just lacking on this subject, and I just cannot make interconnections with AC motor. Its mean i can not coupled with reducer (18mm output) drill bit of back(18mm)
2) I want to learn that; How do I couple a drill bit with a diameter of 18mm the back with the motor? What kind of intermediate apparatus should I use? You know the drill bit is designed for the drill. thats two have different entrances.
Good job 👍 can you tell me where I can this plastic screw to buy?
3dfoxlab.com
well explained , where can i get the plastic drill?
for example at 3dfoxlab.com
Hello , what motor do you recomended for me and rpm? If I have screw 25mm and 600mm long. Do you think 750watt with reduction lets say 45rmp and torque 120Nm will be enought for lets say 5kg /per hour for PLA? Thank you. Aleš
good job!
GOD HELP YOU
نسأل الله يشفيك
. V. GOOD WORKS
hi.
tolles Video, Danke.
habe eine Frage, von wo haben Sie die Filamentscrew Bekommen bzw gekauft, und an dem Nema 23 der Antrieb für die Fillament Screw, Welche Übersetzung haben sie da gewählt
Gruß
info@3dfoxlob.com sende da mal eine mail hin
Sir, can you share the link to buy band heating element & platic screw, pls 🙏
info@3dfoxlab.com
Is plastic screw available on eBay, aliexpress or something else? I visited the link, it is in Germany Language (no auto translation)
write to info@3dfoxlab.com where I also got them from
write a email in English hi answer
I have a question about the extruding screw is it right as ron declares with the drill bit i always have air inside the filament ? And as next question, how much filament per hour did you think i get whith an auger dimensions 20 x 370mm ?
If you use a drill that has no compression zone, it will push the air forward. If you have a good drill, it may be that you get little air forward and your filament has few air inclusions. A professional screw has 3 zones and therefore always take them if your financial framework allows it.
Hi were did you get the plastic screw from cheers
Do you know why you need to cut the wood screw or have the plastic compression screw 2.5cm before the barrel end?
Hello, tnx so much ,,, how much was temperature in hot air barrel?
Do you have any measures for plastic screw ? I assume you have order it from somewhere and gave them details ?
very useful video, first of all thanks.
1).Now, I want to use a 20mm diameter wood drill bit, and it's 500mm long, barrel diameter 25 or 30mm, which one should I choose? actually I want to make small production.
2). What diameter should the nozzle mouth be for 1.75 mm filament? 1.75 mm? , 1.70 mm?, 1.65 mm?.... for 1.75mm filament
For a wood drill it does not have to be long because it does not compact. Try to build in a 3 zone screw instead, you will save yourself a lot of frustration. The nozzle diameter depends on the material you want to use.
@@Werbewunder thank you for reply, so can i use standart AC motor 100/200 watt with reducer and with speed control panel? What range of rpm do you recommend? 20, 30, 50 , 60 rpm? i will use speed control
Up to 30 is good but you need a torque of at least 80-100 Nm
yaptınız mı cihazı ben de yapmaya karar verdim
@@fatihserbes778 knk selam yaptın mı cihazı
Can share with us were did you get the plastic screw?
The wood drill is pushing a larger volume and can shred plastic at the bottom, the plastic screw is really to push and compress
Полезная информация!
So build the barrel to the size of the screw that you will find buy the screw first
The plastic screw is designed to mix the granulated plastic as well as create sheer. Which causes friction that helps melt the plastic. In injection molding a large portion of the heat used to melt the plastic comes from the friction and not the heater bands.
richtig 40 % kommen von der Heizung 60 % von der Reibung das wissen die wenigsten
Now the question is, where you can get dedicated screw for plastic?
Kannst du bei info@3dfoxlab.com kaufen
Hi KamTech bei 3dfoxlab.com
Where can I find the compression screw that you used?
Filamentextruder.de
Good bless you
Круто!!!
Hallo, hast du die Schnecke herstellen lassen oder hast du einen Shop wo es welche zu kaufen gibt? Viele Grüße
info@3dfoxlab.com
Hi - what is the right name for the 'plastic screw' please ? . I am looking for one but I cannot find
Barrel & Extruder Screw
Could u provide the heating unit link to purchase? Please
Bonjour je suis en train de fabriquer un extrudeur pla en 1.75 mm j'ai actuellement des souci sur le faite d'extraire le fil . Avec vous une adresse pour le plastic screw car j'ai de mauvais résultats avec wood drill 20mm.
Cordialement
Can i test it ?
I work in the plastics industry.
I can test it with high quality pa 6 , pa 6.6 in a huge variety of colors and percentages of mineral and glas fiber and so on. I really want to test it and maybe we can work together and find some upgrades
Was willst du testen?
@@Werbewunder verschiedene Farben und Prozente Glasfaser oder Mineral oder schlagzäh. Wir stellen hunderte verschiedene Produkte her in Granulat Form die man alle Testen könnte
Schreib mir doch mal eine mail mit deinen Kontaktdatejn: info@filamentextruder.de
@@Werbewunder ist erledigt
Ich hab ihnen heute eine Email geschickt
Habe dir geantwortet
Thank you very much, i dont have a plastic screw
Hello,if i want to make filament of 1.75mm,what should be the recommended size/diameter of the nozzle to achieve this?
It depends on your system and on your nozzles how long the actuation channel is. and some other factors
nice! what about the heat module , how ist it made?
I buy the heating jackets ready
Ja,good video..shame that files arent on g drive... looks it is not completed...(software, where 2 but...data for diameter)
der Durchmesser ist 20 mm und die länge 400 mm
@@Werbewunder danke ,filen danke
@@Werbewunder Can you tell me what the tolerance is between the drill and the barrel?
@@Secretk Bei Profi Screw 3-5/100 mm bei Drill 1/10 mm
Can you provide the link of the motor ?
Das ist ein Nema 23 mit Getriebe 24 : 1 2,8 Amp besser ist aber 3-4 Amp dann hast du mehr drehmoment
Can you share link where you bought this Plastic Screw?
info@3dfoxlab.com
Hello dear friend. I have a problem! Filament thickness is calibrated from 1.40-1.80mm. I wanted to know if this is from a drill for wood (screw)? Because all the other parts are working fine.
Take some photos and send them to my email address
@@Werbewunder I send photos and video (link) in your email. Thank you very much.
wie viel kosten die Heizmanschetten und wo kaufst du sie?
Wir werden die Links nochmal überarbeiten. Sagen Dir dann bescheid.
@@Werbewunder Danke kannst mir ev auf Instagram schreiben! @settilibenjamin_offizell
What is the size of plastic screw you are using and please can you put a link where can i find it.Thank you.
diameter 20 mm x 370 mm
@@Werbewunder thank you sir
I can't see the filament going out..and the tollerance of the final production..only word for now..
Can the screw be made from SDS+ or SDS Max stone drills?
Tolles Video. Aber bitte, nenn das Loch doch hole, nicht hul. Also quasi "houl" gesprochen, mit der Betonung auf dem O. Klingt ja fürchterlich sonst...
Hehe, vielen Dank für den Hinweis. Hast natürlich recht, werde versuchen beim nächsten Video drauf zu achten :-) Gruß Ron
17:57 maybe you could fix the air problem by tilting the extruder by 45 or 90 degrees, i had seen one DIY which pointed to the floor.
Where do you buy this compression screw ?
3dfoxlab.com
@@Werbewunder its all german. i dont understand
good idea
Wo hast du die Schraube her?
Den Holzbohrer kannst du im Baumarkt kaufen dei Screw bei mir filamentextruder.de
Where do you buy your plastic screw?
www.filamentextruder.com
Wäre es nicht besser wenn das Rohr nicht waagrecht ist sondern etwa 20- 45 Grad. Damit die Förderschnecke nicht so viel Kraft aufwenden muss?
Könnte man auch Plastikflaschen benutzen?
Einer meiner ersten Extruder habe ich senkrecht gestellt und die Erdanziehung übernimmt die filamentstärken Regulierung. schau dir mal die Videos an sind schon was älter
I have a Filastruder. I'd love to be able to drop in a compression screw to replace the auger. Does anyone know of a place that makes/sells compatible compression screws?
I dont know, but I would like to know as well. Planning to make a desktop injection molding machine.
@@tomvankemenade2603I'm making a small desktop plastic injection molding machine.
is this a geared nema 23 ??? lol n ever mind i kept watch and it said it lol
ja nema 23 mit getriebe 16:1
Sind sie rein zufällig aus Karlsruhe, Wegen der Straßenbahn
gruß
Where can I purchase the 20 mm diameter plastic screw?
you have to ask that here by email dg@bfts.de, because this is not my company, but they organize it there. Just email and ask there.
@werbewunder mach am besten deinen Eigenen shop auf mit sets
try to find at " precious plastics bazar" (preciousplastic.com) someone there can help you.
where can you purchase a compression plastic screw?
Bei Dominik Gräßle dg@bfts.de
Cool, where can i buy the plasic screw / extruder screw? i've searched on eBay, but no results... me german too. So can you give me a hint in German? Thx alot
you have to ask that here by email dg@bfts.de, because this is not my company, but they organize it there. Just email and ask there. Greetings Ron
@@WerbewunderVidalı manşon çizimi.
Kannst du vllt. ein video machen wo du einen kosten und arbeit unintensiven filament desktop extruder baust den jeder machen kann (auch wer nicht schweissen kann ) und z.b. den code für den arduino verlinkst
bin erst zwölf und hab mir von meinem taschengeld vor etwa einem jahr einen anet A8 gekauft und zwischenzeitlich ein upgrade auf den guten alten ender 3 gemacht
nur ist filament so ******** teuer. zurzeit habe ich einen anlieferer wo das kilo nur 12,50 euro kostet aber ich will einfach ein bisschen nachhaltiger sein
Den Link findest du in der Beschreibung die dateien liegenin der Google Cloud
@@Werbewunder nee ich meine eine so simple version dass jeder also wirklich jeder die machen kann z.b. als basis einen kurbelfleischwolf oder sowas
@@GandhiTheDerg Das geht aber die Qualität des Filament wird sehr ungenau sein und du bekommst schlechte Druckergebnisse.
@@Werbewunder ich weiß aber es ist wenigstens etwas und die qualität von meinem 12 € filament ist auch nicht viel besser
Спасибо.
freut mich wenn es einem gefält und hilft
HELLO I AM INTERESADI EB CREATE A MACHINE TO REMOVE FILamento, how much would you charge for your advice
Go to Patreon, it's all there.
How can I get the files for this machine?
Hi leider hat ein User alle daten vom Internet gelöscht und ich hatte bis heute keine Zeit alles wieder hoch zu laden.