As an 11-year professional commercial floorcovering estimator & quality control supervisor, I'd totally give you a high five on this. Really nicely done & excellent choice to go with the reducer in this scenario. Transitions can be one of the most frustrating and tedious components to the finished job. Look into one of my go-to project adhesives that is versatile and incredibly strong-- Ardex CA 20 P. This stuff is a beast.
@@apolloorosco6852Yes. Multipurpose Reducer Moulding. It can be found in the transitions section of the flooring departments at Lowe's and Home Depot.
Thanks for showing us how it’s done. I keep 8, 1-gallon jugs filled w/ sand to weigh such things down. This method is also ideal for straightening long runs of plywood during assembly and glue up.
I have a transition of a half inch from my plank to my oak floor. I bought a 1x6 piece red oak board and made a transition piece. Routed the edges and clear coated it and it is beautiful. Wanted a wider piece than the narrow stuff in the stores.
"Immerse?" In that context? Must be engineer-speak. I was actually envisioning a 2x4 under the concrete bag, to spread the weight across the threshold a little more. Excellent video.
Thank you so much for this video!!! I was driving myself crazy trying to figure out the 4-in-1 molding kit. You need a PH.D to figure out which setup applies to your flooring!! LOL This is super simple and effective!! Thanks Jeff!!
Thank you! I am having to replace the transitions in my house because the previous owners broke the ones that were installed when they were moving out. The brackets are still in the concrete, I just needed to know which transition was the appropriate one to use. This was VERY helpful! I'm off to Menards!
It's always a task to terminate uneven floor covering from room to room. We had to use "hardy board" in our kitchen and bathrooms as we are on a raised foundation and the tile man needed to stiffen the floors for the tile/grout. Well now the tiled floors are a good 3/4" higher at each entrance that is not tiled. The carpet man used those long wooden shims carpenters use for setting doors and windows. So the carpet side gradually ramped up to the height of the tile over maybe 16" to 18" and you don't notice it and the tranisition spot is even. Some trick I learned a couple of decades back and its satisfactory. Ever since that time, I have used those "shims" for lots of applications !
Yes,yes,and yes ! Those shims are so useful in the flooring trade yet practically nobody knows about them! You can achieve a level transition from one floor to the next and minimize/ eliminate a transition strip all together! Good on you for paying attention and realizing the potential they have !!
Laura I had to cut off the bottom lip and sand the reducer and stain the oak, plus I put 2 coats of polyurethane so I could match our hardwood floors. Turned out amazing considering our contractor had used pine which broke apart after a few years. PS actual height will be closer to 5/8".
Great video! I have the same 3/4 inch difference in flooring. Local hardware store doesn't know what I need, so what do I ask for when I go to get that reducer you mentioned? Or what is that reducer called as far as the hardware store understanding what I am looking for.
Thank you so much for this video! I have been looking high and low for a way to not have to remove wood planks to cut out a space to glue in the transition piece. It seems like you are not putting that piece into the space between the planks, but on the tile so I CAN do that too! Thank you!!
Thanks for your videos. I'm just about to start my flooring project in the living room. I already have laminate in the hallway, but I am dreading tacking the transition. None of the options really look satisfactory when there is a difference in height. I'm tempted to re-do the hallway to match (as it has been down for a number of years).
Your solution looks great! The only real problem I can see for a diy’er is gonna be cost. The transition pieces are relatively expensive, you’re not gonna be able to test the fit until you cut it, and the cut ones can’t be returned.
@mikeingeorgia1, I have a suggestion for you that you may or may not like. It’s a solution I use quite frequently, as in pretty much all the time. I make my own. Even when it comes down to door frames and the door bottom threshold. I use my chop saw for the length, my table saw for the width, my router table for any grooves that need to be made and my drill press for the holes of which are used to secure and adjust the depth and gap between the bottom edge of the door and the top edge of the threshold. I can make an entire door frame with functional threshold for a 7’ square opening, designed to accept two opposing doors that hinge on the outer edge and meet in the center in about 6 or 7 hours from scratch. Not including the doors mind you, just the frame and functional threshold, routed for three hinges on each side. As far as the transition is concerned I would think it would be fairly straightforward, just take your time. Measure 5 times 😅, trim, cut once 🫣🙂. And, mmmm🤔, maybe purchase, like, I don’t know 🤷, 3 times the material needed.😳 At least you know you won’t run out right off if you ruin the first run. Anyway, if you’re already asking about this, I have total faith you can do this. Have fun, have faith, most of all, be safe…..
I had to buy 2 different ones from home depot oak finished, had to sand down, cut one wrong luckily still had enough to fit my two thresholds, cost $150 but they look amazing. Just hope they last I have 3/4" drop also.
Do you have a link or can you give any dimensions for the product you ended up using? I have the same issue in my kitchen and I'm having trouble finding a suitable reducer at the local hardware stores
I would like to know where to get the 3/4 inch transition strip that you chose. I can’t seem to find them in the store. All I found was a 3/8 inch. Please help.
I need a person like u to fix mine,maybe I can try it this will be my second try seems everyone that comes in my house trips on my transition I've had this place 3 yrs guess the glue got old wish me luck
Great video. I only have about 1/4” difference between the floors. I’m ripping up carpet in the hall (to put down hardwood) and the kitchen hardwood is higher. (Hardwood installed on top of Lino and thin plywood) Two doorways to deal with. Would a tapered threshold be OK or funky? Rip the taper on a solid oak 5” wide board. Or is there a better solution? Thanks
What we do in this case is we stick A T molding piece in there instead of the molding that you saw in this video. The T molding would allow both floors to expand in and out from underneath the molding strip. Sometimes what we have to do since the T doesn't go all the way down to the floor, as we have to glue down a metal strip that we get off the materials aisle and Home Depot, and then we glue the T molding on top of that strip
Wish I could send a pic of my problem. We removed stair carpet and the transition from hardwood floor and top step is about 3/4” and the depth of top step is 8”. I am always nervous especially wearing heels because of the difference in height. I’ve looked for a solution but you look like the only one who has the right ideas for this type of problem. Please help!
I have this same situation with my bedroom remodel, except one side the floor is significantly sloped. It’s about 3/4” out of level from one side of the door to the other. The other side is level because I just installed new LVP in the room and I used self leveling compound which came all the way to the transition. So I have about a 3/4” difference on one side and about 1/16” on the other. Any suggestions? Should I just get a thicker transition strip and then taper the one side down to an angle that fits the old sloped floor? I was thinking of making a little form and using some epoxy or something durable that would self level on the sloped side and then just using one of these strips. But then there would still be an obvious gap there. So it seems the only way to resolve this is tapering one side of a transition strip to the angle that the floor is sloping. Or a whole big project to resolve the floor level in the whole house which is pretty much out of the question.
What if my transition slopes from 3/8(handle side) to 5/32(hinge side)? About 1/4 difference. Any ideas how to go about it? The only thing i could think of is to take the size in the middle and glue it down twisted. Its 1/2 laminate to VCT tile in the washroom.
@@jeffostroff poor leveling job with cement(selfleveling) I was working it with a putty knife and put too much trust in the product. Also it was my first one. Probably should have invested in spike roller.... If i understand you correctly the shim would go on 3/8 side though. To make esthetic tapered shim probably just as complex. I might use some sort of putty or the same adhesive to build it up or caulk the gap with something appropriate. Thanks for the reply👍
The couple of times I've had to bridge a gap of more than 1/2 inch, I got a piece of oak and 'milled' it with a saw to get at least a 4 inch transition. That's because I can stub my toes on nearly anything. What you did looks like it should be fine for normal people, but I would trip over that some night on the way back to bed...
@@hardlyb agreed, If you have the resources to make a piece have a longer taper, it def makes it less likely to trip/smack a tow but anything more than 1/2 inch sucks to deal with and you sort of have to accept that a typical transition may leave you unhappy
We just ripped out our carpet and put down LVP. but now the fireplace hearth is higher than the floor and is a major stubbed toe situation because of the height difference without the carpet. Flooring company wouldn’t touch it. Don’t know how to fix it.
You could use a reducer molding piece like what you saw me use here and just build a nice frame around the fireplace fireplace sort of like a picture frame and it will gracefully transition them from transitioning from the woodfloor to the level of the level of the fireplace.
@@p.sherman3158 I would recommend finding somebody who is knowledgeable in woodworking you'll find a lot of these norm abrahms type people around you can get on next door app and ask for recommendations
If the tile floor is higher, try rotating the part around so the main part of the molding sits on the wood floor, not blued down, and the overhang part is glued down tot he tile floor. Or you can search for a reducer molding that is curved downward from the elevated tile floor down tot he wood floor.
@@thecatfishmouth we got transitions from Lowe’s (Flexco Gunstock 0.688-in T x 2-in W x 78-in L Solid Wood Threshold) and we pre drilled holes into them then drilled in screws to hold in place. We didn’t want to use glue.
I had to buy 2 different ones from home depot oak finished, had to sand finish so I could stain, cut one wrong luckily still had enough to fit my two thresholds, cost $150 but they look amazing. Just hope they last, I have 3/4" drop also.
The leveler I think is the problem here. It makes the wood floor stand up higher. I had no idea levelers were that thick or could be that thick. Is this wood flooring slab?
What do you do if you have a kitchen floor that's linoleum, and its 3mm or so higher than the two adjacent rooms? The goal is to install laminate flooring throughout, with no transition, but the floor in the kitchen is higher. How do I level it out so there's no slope down into the living room from the kitchen? With no transition piece. We want a smooth, uninterrupted flow of the laminate planks. I hope that makes sense.
You don't want to glue it to any wood flooring. Best for that case would be a T-mold that gets glued in the middle between both floors directly to the sub floor
I’m going from hard wood to laminate. The title of this video is misleading because he glues the transition piece to the tile, not to the floating floor. If you don’t have tile to glue to but you need a reducer molding, how do you fasten it?
If you're going from a laminate floor to laminate floor or a wood floor to wood floor, the strategy is that you can't glue it down to either side, so in the channel between the two floors, you can put a metal strip dear and then glue the transition piece right over that metal strip. this will leave both floors free to expand and contract underneath the transition strip
HD’s Black Fridays Matter starts November 4. I saw the unreleased ad. It seems very underwhelming. There are brushless Milwaukee drill kits at $99. Not fuel obviously. Hopefully there will be unadvertised deals too. #BlackFridaysMatter
Anyone who uses these transition pieces is a lazy installer, my brother in law whose been installing floors for 20+ years always has a good laugh when he sees these installed. He says the best way of doing a transition in a doorway so it doesn't look ugly is to not install any tile/flooring in the doorway, then you cut a piece of flooring, say 4" x 30" so it fits in the empty spot. Now you basically have to turn this piece into a ramp so it goes from the low spot to the high spot, you cut thinner pieces of flooring and put it near the high spot so when you put the finished piece on top it'll go from the low spot to the high spot and wont rock back and forth. Yes you need to spend more time on this, yes you need to secure these thinner pieces to the osb, yes there's lots of trial and error, but the end result looks amazing. I have six of these transitions in my house and five are on the main floor, no one has ever noticed them even though my kitchen tile is 1/2" higher than the hardwood.
@@jeffostroff I think he means it would've looked better if you had been able to line up the grout lines to marry the two different floors together as it appears the planks are about the same width.
@@CTChipmunk There was no way to do this as we had to merge into an existing layout of the wood floor, comma as we ripped up the previous install from somebody else but have to retain other portions of the house and so We had to mate up to the other areas and then build our rows of planks from there that would have been virtually impossible to pull off.
the 1one cement bag (in the middle only pushes down maybe 20 pounds - it is not concentrated and is no way as good as a piece of 36x3 "plywood and 3 verical studs Shimmed in to the door frame above you do not have enough contact pressure. like a car . Even a strip of 2" hard foam would be better added if no plywood
This is my friend's home and it is the combination of a double lis the combination of a double wide trailer hooked up to And on an even slap this is why their floors were uneven.
@@jeffostroff makes sense. Reading my comment I can see how it doesn’t come across as a joke. I was just trying to be funny. But unreality I know I’m new construction it’s great to have even floors but after that life happens and I’ve used many strips to even it up. Love the channel. I should have said I was joking around in first text with caution tape and bright colors ha ha
As an 11-year professional commercial floorcovering estimator & quality control supervisor, I'd totally give you a high five on this. Really nicely done & excellent choice to go with the reducer in this scenario. Transitions can be one of the most frustrating and tedious components to the finished job.
Look into one of my go-to project adhesives that is versatile and incredibly strong-- Ardex CA 20 P. This stuff is a beast.
Thanks Sheri!
So is that particular piece call a "reducer transiton"? Just looking for clarification , this looks like the exact type i am looking for.
Where did you find this reducer?
@@apolloorosco6852Yes. Multipurpose Reducer Moulding. It can be found in the transitions section of the flooring departments at Lowe's and Home Depot.
Thanks for showing us how it’s done. I keep 8, 1-gallon jugs filled w/ sand to weigh such things down. This method is also ideal for straightening long runs of plywood during assembly and glue up.
Excellent video, very clear and concise.
I have a transition of a half inch from my plank to my oak floor. I bought a 1x6 piece red oak board and made a transition piece. Routed the edges and clear coated it and it is beautiful. Wanted a wider piece than the narrow stuff in the stores.
Seamless transitions only way to go period. Good video 💥👌🇺🇸
This was so helpful and perfectly articulated the differences. Thanks!
"Immerse?" In that context? Must be engineer-speak.
I was actually envisioning a 2x4 under the concrete bag, to spread the weight across the threshold a little more. Excellent video.
Actually in bed I think would be a better word but yes engineering speak
Thank you so much for this video!!! I was driving myself crazy trying to figure out the 4-in-1 molding kit. You need a PH.D to figure out which setup applies to your flooring!! LOL This is super simple and effective!! Thanks Jeff!!
Glad it was helpful!
Best video I’ve seen on this subject
Hey Jeff -Super clear instructions, and great presentation. Thank you! 👍
Glad it was helpful bro! Thanks for joining us on the Port Royale condo evacuation video tonight!
Great video!
Can you put where you found the molding piece you ended up using? I can’t seem to find the right size for my floor. Thank you!
Thank you! I am having to replace the transitions in my house because the previous owners broke the ones that were installed when they were moving out. The brackets are still in the concrete, I just needed to know which transition was the appropriate one to use. This was VERY helpful! I'm off to Menards!
Very helpful, thanks.
Great video! Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Thanks Jeff for your information 👍 and video 👍 📹 I appreciate you 🙏🏽
Thanks for the kind words juan
Thank you so much. You gave a great voice by the way. 😊
Thank you very much, you explained that really nicely, Thanks again
great video! Wish you would have put a link for that last reducer
great show Jeff thanks
Thank you Iggy
Nice video ... helped me get the job done properly!
Thank you, this is exactly what I needed!
It's always a task to terminate uneven floor covering from room to room. We had to use "hardy board" in our kitchen and bathrooms as we are on a raised foundation and the tile man needed to stiffen the floors for the tile/grout. Well now the tiled floors are a good 3/4" higher at each entrance that is not tiled. The carpet man used those long wooden shims carpenters use for setting doors and windows. So the carpet side gradually ramped up to the height of the tile over maybe 16" to 18" and you don't notice it and the tranisition spot is even. Some trick I learned a couple of decades back and its satisfactory. Ever since that time, I have used those "shims" for lots of applications !
Shim idea was a great idea for that.
Yes,yes,and yes ! Those shims are so useful in the flooring trade yet practically nobody knows about them! You can achieve a level transition from one floor to the next and minimize/ eliminate a transition strip all together! Good on you for paying attention and realizing the potential they have !!
Laura I had to cut off the bottom lip and sand the reducer and stain the oak, plus I put 2 coats of polyurethane so I could match our hardwood floors. Turned out amazing considering our contractor had used pine which broke apart after a few years. PS actual height will be closer to 5/8".
Great video! I have the same 3/4 inch difference in flooring. Local hardware store doesn't know what I need, so what do I ask for when I go to get that reducer you mentioned? Or what is that reducer called as far as the hardware store understanding what I am looking for.
Another good one
Thank you so much Lindon
I agree, Jeff's the man, enjoy his channel 😉 🇺🇸
@@shanew7361 Thanks bro
thanks, this was really helpful!! and i hadn't heard the rule of thumb about only glue the stationary floor and why. makes a lot of sense!
Hi - do you need to put plugs in the concrete, or push the screws straight in?
Thank you so much for this video! I have been looking high and low for a way to not have to remove wood planks to cut out a space to glue in the transition piece. It seems like you are not putting that piece into the space between the planks, but on the tile so I CAN do that too! Thank you!!
Very helpful. Thank you so much!
Thanks for your videos. I'm just about to start my flooring project in the living room. I already have laminate in the hallway, but I am dreading tacking the transition. None of the options really look satisfactory when there is a difference in height. I'm tempted to re-do the hallway to match (as it has been down for a number of years).
Your solution looks great! The only real problem I can see for a diy’er is gonna be cost. The transition pieces are relatively expensive, you’re not gonna be able to test the fit until you cut it, and the cut ones can’t be returned.
That's always where they get you in flooring is the transition pieces
@mikeingeorgia1, I have a suggestion for you that you may or may not like. It’s a solution I use quite frequently, as in pretty much all the time. I make my own. Even when it comes down to door frames and the door bottom threshold. I use my chop saw for the length, my table saw for the width, my router table for any grooves that need to be made and my drill press for the holes of which are used to secure and adjust the depth and gap between the bottom edge of the door and the top edge of the threshold. I can make an entire door frame with functional threshold for a 7’ square opening, designed to accept two opposing doors that hinge on the outer edge and meet in the center in about 6 or 7 hours from scratch. Not including the doors mind you, just the frame and functional threshold, routed for three hinges on each side. As far as the transition is concerned I would think it would be fairly straightforward, just take your time. Measure 5 times 😅, trim, cut once 🫣🙂.
And, mmmm🤔, maybe purchase, like, I don’t know 🤷, 3 times the material needed.😳 At least you know you won’t run out right off if you ruin the first run. Anyway, if you’re already asking about this, I have total faith you can do this. Have fun, have faith, most of all, be safe…..
I had to buy 2 different ones from home depot oak finished, had to sand down, cut one wrong luckily still had enough to fit my two thresholds, cost $150 but they look amazing. Just hope they last I have 3/4" drop also.
Do you have a link or can you give any dimensions for the product you ended up using? I have the same issue in my kitchen and I'm having trouble finding a suitable reducer at the local hardware stores
Same here. Cannot find the piece anywhere.
Thanks so much!
Great video
Thank you so much paulette
Do you think the DeWalt miter and free stand is going to happen this year on Black Friday
lowes has it now
Where you at Jeff? We need some Home Depot and Lowes tours of the Christmas specials. Let's go!
Hopefully soon as soon as they set them up in my area
Where did you buy the last transition?
It was either Home Depot or lowes it was a Reducer Molding
Where do you buy that kind of transition piece? I cannot find it at the big box stores.
Lumber Liquidators
I seen that end lift up when you put the concrete on it 😂
Nice video thanks
You never want a stubbed toe! Great tutorial! If anybody needs this without having the 3/4 inch gap I also posted a vid regarding this.
I would like to know where to get the 3/4 inch transition strip that you chose. I can’t seem to find them in the store. All I found was a 3/8 inch. Please help.
Where can you buy a seamless transition? Home Depot didn’t seem to have any
Where can I get that kind of reducer mold? Thats the one I need
Hey Jeff, where did you pickup those threshold pieces?
From Hunter Bidens laptop lol
Home Depot
Thank you
You're welcome
I need a person like u to fix mine,maybe I can try it this will be my second try seems everyone that comes in my house trips on my transition I've had this place 3 yrs guess the glue got old wish me luck
You can do it! Just follow the ideas in this video
Thanks. Im in this situation now. I see a lot of people using glue.... which im not a fan of but I guess that's the best option for un even floors.
If this role is reversed (tall white tile to lower vinyl flooring) do you still put the glue on the lower vinyl? Or keep it off the vinyl completely.
Can u tup the link of that wood transection where I can find ?
Great video.
I only have about 1/4” difference between the floors. I’m ripping up carpet in the hall (to put down hardwood) and the kitchen hardwood is higher. (Hardwood installed on top of Lino and thin plywood) Two doorways to deal with. Would a tapered threshold be OK or funky? Rip the taper on a solid oak 5” wide board. Or is there a better solution? Thanks
you can taper or look for a transition molding piece that mates the 2 height differences together
What if the two floors are laminate flooring and about 1/4" height difference and you can't glue one side down because they both move?
What we do in this case is we stick A T molding piece in there instead of the molding that you saw in this video. The T molding would allow both floors to expand in and out from underneath the molding strip. Sometimes what we have to do since the T doesn't go all the way down to the floor, as we have to glue down a metal strip that we get off the materials aisle and Home Depot, and then we glue the T molding on top of that strip
T Moulding transition where center can be glued at least 1/2" ++ center tongue and widtth greater than gap @ 1.5-2"
Wish I could send a pic of my problem. We removed stair carpet and the transition from hardwood floor and top step is about 3/4” and the depth of top step is 8”. I am always nervous especially wearing heels because of the difference in height. I’ve looked for a solution but you look like the only one who has the right ideas for this type of problem. Please help!
I have this same situation with my bedroom remodel, except one side the floor is significantly sloped. It’s about 3/4” out of level from one side of the door to the other. The other side is level because I just installed new LVP in the room and I used self leveling compound which came all the way to the transition. So I have about a 3/4” difference on one side and about 1/16” on the other.
Any suggestions? Should I just get a thicker transition strip and then taper the one side down to an angle that fits the old sloped floor?
I was thinking of making a little form and using some epoxy or something durable that would self level on the sloped side and then just using one of these strips. But then there would still be an obvious gap there. So it seems the only way to resolve this is tapering one side of a transition strip to the angle that the floor is sloping. Or a whole big project to resolve the floor level in the whole house which is pretty much out of the question.
What if my transition slopes from 3/8(handle side) to 5/32(hinge side)? About 1/4 difference.
Any ideas how to go about it?
The only thing i could think of is to take the size in the middle and glue it down twisted.
Its 1/2 laminate to VCT tile in the washroom.
You may have to shim up under the 5/32 side to level it, but then aim the entire transition piece down. How did it end up like this?
@@jeffostroff poor leveling job with cement(selfleveling) I was working it with a putty knife and put too much trust in the product. Also it was my first one. Probably should have invested in spike roller....
If i understand you correctly the shim would go on 3/8 side though.
To make esthetic tapered shim probably just as complex.
I might use some sort of putty or the same adhesive to build it up or caulk the gap with something appropriate.
Thanks for the reply👍
The couple of times I've had to bridge a gap of more than 1/2 inch, I got a piece of oak and 'milled' it with a saw to get at least a 4 inch transition. That's because I can stub my toes on nearly anything. What you did looks like it should be fine for normal people, but I would trip over that some night on the way back to bed...
No this one tapers down to a point, so there is no tripping hazard
@@jeffostroff I can trip on a flat floor! :)
@@hardlyb agreed, If you have the resources to make a piece have a longer taper, it def makes it less likely to trip/smack a tow but anything more than 1/2 inch sucks to deal with and you sort of have to accept that a typical transition may leave you unhappy
We just ripped out our carpet and put down LVP. but now the fireplace hearth is higher than the floor and is a major stubbed toe situation because of the height difference without the carpet. Flooring company wouldn’t touch it. Don’t know how to fix it.
You could use a reducer molding piece like what you saw me use here and just build a nice frame around the fireplace fireplace sort of like a picture frame and it will gracefully transition them from transitioning from the woodfloor to the level of the level of the fireplace.
@@jeffostroff That's what I did when I used marble tile around my fireplace and floor hearth.
@@jeffostroff yes. It’s just upsetting spending so much money already on the floor. It’s still a toe hazard even with the transition.
@@jeffostroff yes. It’s beautiful. the saddest thing is that if your flooring company doesn’t do it. Then who does. What did I pay for.
@@p.sherman3158 I would recommend finding somebody who is knowledgeable in woodworking you'll find a lot of these norm abrahms type people around you can get on next door app and ask for recommendations
Thanks what if the tile floor is higher does this work? where do you glue? Do they make tile reducers? Great Video thanks!!
If the tile floor is higher, try rotating the part around so the main part of the molding sits on the wood floor, not blued down, and the overhang part is glued down tot he tile floor. Or you can search for a reducer molding that is curved downward from the elevated tile floor down tot he wood floor.
i have laminate flooring that are both uneven, would i just glue it down to the flooring that's lower?
What did you end up doing? I have the same situation.
@@thecatfishmouth we got transitions from Lowe’s (Flexco Gunstock 0.688-in T x 2-in W x 78-in L
Solid Wood Threshold) and we pre drilled holes into them then drilled in screws to hold in place. We didn’t want to use glue.
I had to buy 2 different ones from home depot oak finished, had to sand finish so I could stain, cut one wrong luckily still had enough to fit my two thresholds, cost $150 but they look amazing. Just hope they last, I have 3/4" drop also.
Do you have a link to the 3/4 one you purchased?
The leveler I think is the problem here. It makes the wood floor stand up higher. I had no idea levelers were that thick or could be that thick. Is this wood flooring slab?
A flooring company had come in and self leveled the entire living room kitchen area leading to this bathroom, made it a bit higher
What do you do if you have a kitchen floor that's linoleum, and its 3mm or so higher than the two adjacent rooms? The goal is to install laminate flooring throughout, with no transition, but the floor in the kitchen is higher. How do I level it out so there's no slope down into the living room from the kitchen? With no transition piece. We want a smooth, uninterrupted flow of the laminate planks. I hope that makes sense.
What if it's an uneven transition like this but between two laminate wood flooring? Would you just glue the lower side in that case also?
You don't want to glue it to any wood flooring. Best for that case would be a T-mold that gets glued in the middle between both floors directly to the sub floor
thx
I’m going from hard wood to laminate. The title of this video is misleading because he glues the transition piece to the tile, not to the floating floor. If you don’t have tile to glue to but you need a reducer molding, how do you fasten it?
If you're going from a laminate floor to laminate floor or a wood floor to wood floor, the strategy is that you can't glue it down to either side, so in the channel between the two floors, you can put a metal strip dear and then glue the transition piece right over that metal strip. this will leave both floors free to expand and contract underneath the transition strip
I need help. I can’t find any high transition
They are out there, just keep searching! I had to buy a few of them online
Jeff can you tell me the sku or internet number of this. I can't find it in HDs site at all. Please help!
I can't either, but it was at Home Depot, I searched for my receipt and could not find it. About a $20 part
HD’s Black Fridays Matter starts November 4. I saw the unreleased ad. It seems very underwhelming. There are brushless Milwaukee drill kits at $99. Not fuel obviously. Hopefully there will be unadvertised deals too.
#BlackFridaysMatter
Anyone who uses these transition pieces is a lazy installer, my brother in law whose been installing floors for 20+ years always has a good laugh when he sees these installed.
He says the best way of doing a transition in a doorway so it doesn't look ugly is to not install any tile/flooring in the doorway, then you cut a piece of flooring, say 4" x 30" so it fits in the empty spot. Now you basically have to turn this piece into a ramp so it goes from the low spot to the high spot, you cut thinner pieces of flooring and put it near the high spot so when you put the finished piece on top it'll go from the low spot to the high spot and wont rock back and forth. Yes you need to spend more time on this, yes you need to secure these thinner pieces to the osb, yes there's lots of trial and error, but the end result looks amazing. I have six of these transitions in my house and five are on the main floor, no one has ever noticed them even though my kitchen tile is 1/2" higher than the hardwood.
It bugs me that the lines of the planks do not line up. They jump like an inch at the transition
Same here. I think that is something to bear in mind when installing the flooring itself.
Why is the opening music so very intense? ≧‿≦ I feel like I’m watching a battle scene between the main hero and villain.
😎🛠️😎🛠️😎
Thanks ted
Hey mr jeff
Thank you Mr. Christopher forgetting up so early to watch this one
You should have followed the lines
What lines are you talking about?
Ceramic and Plank
@@jeffostroff I think he means it would've looked better if you had been able to line up the grout lines to marry the two different floors together as it appears the planks are about the same width.
@@CTChipmunk Yep
@@CTChipmunk There was no way to do this as we had to merge into an existing layout of the wood floor, comma as we ripped up the previous install from somebody else but have to retain other portions of the house and so We had to mate up to the other areas and then build our rows of planks from there that would have been virtually impossible to pull off.
Pro tip, use blue tape on the edges if you don’t want glue problems
the 1one cement bag (in the middle only pushes down maybe 20 pounds - it is not concentrated and is no way as good as a piece of 36x3 "plywood and 3 verical studs Shimmed in to the door frame above you do not have enough contact pressure. like a car . Even a strip of 2" hard foam would be better added if no plywood
hi
A £50 bag of concrete? Damn that's expensive...
If your floors are uneven u did something wrong. Add some caution tape and bright colors if inviting friends or family over
This is my friend's home and it is the combination of a double lis the combination of a double wide trailer hooked up to And on an even slap this is why their floors were uneven.
@@jeffostroff makes sense. Reading my comment I can see how it doesn’t come across as a joke. I was just trying to be funny. But unreality I know I’m new construction it’s great to have even floors but after that life happens and I’ve used many strips to even it up. Love the channel. I should have said I was joking around in first text with caution tape and bright colors ha ha
🤣👌
LOL...just like a sports stadium !
Easier to buy wood and make your own transition. The price is over priced. If you have a router just do it.
The piece we used was $19 so we went with that
If you just learn to step over the transition you’ll never stub your toes especially if you know that’s where the transition is.
🇺🇸👍👍👍💥💥💥👍👍👍🇺🇸
Thse thing shouldn't exist, floor guys should do their job properly.
i hate this, i wish people woould fix things correctly the first time
Should have paid better attention to the planks as they are about an inch out of line between the two rooms rookie mistake
Great video