If you have an original unadjustable wastegate, just shims it out with washers. About 3-7 depending on the size/wg will put you at ~1bar which is max for a 13c.
We had one of the last 940 2,3L turbo Vagons out of Volvo assembly line. I was just a little kid back then, now im 38 years old. It went to the most famous Volvo tuning shop in Finland called Autokorjaamo Mini. Looked totally normal from outside. Dark blue and 3 spoke 15`` Fondmetal rims. We had it for years and it never broke down. They had to turn it down a lot. First drive clutch was slipping a lot and cardan shaft was shaking really badly. They prolly put forged internals in to engine. External waste gate with screamer pipe was the only hint people could hear when it was on road. Local Bmw 325 and Mercedes boys got prolly very upset because that car. Good days back then. After nineteens everything went to shit in my opinion.
Thanks for sharing! I love hearing people’s stories about these old redblock cars. Not sure if you’ve seen my videos on this topic yet, but I bought a set of Fondmetal wheels from the junkyard last year, and then had them refinished by a local shop.
I do have the option of using a conical flange turbine, and then I should be able to use the stock downpipe. Or I can use a straight flange turbine, with the associated downpipe flange that I cut from the junkyard (but going that route requires a custom downpipe).
@@Schwedenstahl245 I did not realize you had some for sale, but I’ve already got three of them on the shelf! So I’ve got my pick of which to use, plus spares.
From experience, be careful bending wrist pins with increased boost as on stock B230FT engines that's the first sign of engine damage. It with knock on both the up and down stroke at idle sounding like shaking a can on bolts.
especially 91-94 models gen 1 model 940 uses mostly the easily bending 9 mm thick conrods, the 95-98 is gen 2 and uses the 11mm thick better made conrods.
I installed performance chips on my ECU and EZK from "redblockpowered" before I installed my boost controller. I am not sure if this is necessary to keep the engine safe, but it probably depends on how high you want to turn up the boost.
A 0,1-0,3 bar extra wont hurt. And its easy to swap injectors. Just use a air/fuel gauge and make sure ur running rich enough. And listen/feel for spiking and or slight misfire. And if ur rly worried order a custom fuelchip and run a e85/95 ratio of fuel to keep the air and pistons slightly cooler.
That said i then mean if stock is 0,6-7bar a increase to 0,9/1 wouldnt do too much harm. But if you get it chipped you can run near 250-290hp on stock engine. But only if it runs well meankng has enough fuel etc. And 300+ on stock pistons crank etc. Just eith diff rods.
Yes, and I got it from eBay. The gauge openings are tilted slightly towards the driver. You can find a few options on eBay if you search for something like “triple gauge pod DIN” (without quotes).
@@Vehicularious first thing I wondered was what the heck that panel was since it's so clean before realising it's the 960 interior which makes a lot of sense. On a 940 your best bet imho is to rebuild the fan box and radio to a more simple design and then put the gauges there for a less rice-y install.
@@tracklizard4018 I get a lot of questions and comments about this gauge pod install, partly because I think people like it, but also because it throws off other 940/740 owners, for the reasons you stated. I installed an aftermarket stereo in my 740, and it’s nowhere near as clean.
@@Vehicularious You can fit two 52mm gauges if you press them in next to the ciggie lighter and under the radio. Moving the climate control unit to somewhere like into the glovebox and installing a phone radio controller gives you enough room for another 6 gauges. A ciggie lighter delete give you enough room for three gauges in that row. Much better than a pillar or removing air vents etc imo.
Yes, my understanding is that the main difference between the LPT and HPT is the wastegate spring tension. A manual boost controller should work fine to raise the boost on an LPT car. I am located in America, and they never sold the LPT cars here, so I am speculating.
This is a 940 SE, which was only produced in 1991. It uses the same interior as the late 760 and the 960 cars. It was sort of a car that bridged the gap between the outgoing 760 and incoming 960.
If you have an original unadjustable wastegate, just shims it out with washers. About 3-7 depending on the size/wg will put you at ~1bar which is max for a 13c.
We had one of the last 940 2,3L turbo Vagons out of Volvo assembly line. I was just a little kid back then, now im 38 years old. It went to the most famous Volvo tuning shop in Finland called Autokorjaamo Mini. Looked totally normal from outside. Dark blue and 3 spoke 15`` Fondmetal rims. We had it for years and it never broke down. They had to turn it down a lot. First drive clutch was slipping a lot and cardan shaft was shaking really badly. They prolly put forged internals in to engine. External waste gate with screamer pipe was the only hint people could hear when it was on road. Local Bmw 325 and Mercedes boys got prolly very upset because that car. Good days back then. After nineteens everything went to shit in my opinion.
Thanks for sharing! I love hearing people’s stories about these old redblock cars. Not sure if you’ve seen my videos on this topic yet, but I bought a set of Fondmetal wheels from the junkyard last year, and then had them refinished by a local shop.
That little extra pep you get definitely makes a wagon more fun to drive. Personally I think a 15g/16t turbo is what it should have come with factory.
I am hoping to put a 16T onto my 740 Turbo at some point!
It's 100% worth it! The hardest part is probably making/modifying the downpipe. Other than that it's pretty straightforward.
I do have the option of using a conical flange turbine, and then I should be able to use the stock downpipe. Or I can use a straight flange turbine, with the associated downpipe flange that I cut from the junkyard (but going that route requires a custom downpipe).
@@Vehicularious you know I have 16T turbos for sale, right?
@@Schwedenstahl245 I did not realize you had some for sale, but I’ve already got three of them on the shelf! So I’ve got my pick of which to use, plus spares.
From experience, be careful bending wrist pins with increased boost as on stock B230FT engines that's the first sign of engine damage. It with knock on both the up and down stroke at idle sounding like shaking a can on bolts.
especially 91-94 models gen 1 model 940 uses mostly the easily bending 9 mm thick conrods, the 95-98 is gen 2 and uses the 11mm thick better made conrods.
Would be interested to know the limits of that Garrett t25 you have compared to a 13c or even a 15g/16t
do you need any sort of tune when you change the boost presure?
do you have some sort of ecu adjustment? looking at cranking up my boost but scared of leaning it out, looking forward to a response thanks!
I installed performance chips on my ECU and EZK from "redblockpowered" before I installed my boost controller. I am not sure if this is necessary to keep the engine safe, but it probably depends on how high you want to turn up the boost.
A 0,1-0,3 bar extra wont hurt. And its easy to swap injectors. Just use a air/fuel gauge and make sure ur running rich enough. And listen/feel for spiking and or slight misfire. And if ur rly worried order a custom fuelchip and run a e85/95 ratio of fuel to keep the air and pistons slightly cooler.
That said i then mean if stock is 0,6-7bar a increase to 0,9/1 wouldnt do too much harm. But if you get it chipped you can run near 250-290hp on stock engine. But only if it runs well meankng has enough fuel etc. And 300+ on stock pistons crank etc. Just eith diff rods.
the boost meter is in bar not psi, 1 bar of bost is close to 14.5 psi. on stock injectors you should never run more the 0.6 bar
did you watch the same video i did he had a aftermarket boost gauge that reads psi
Was This standard turbo ?
Is that gauge pod 3d printed?
Yes, and I got it from eBay. The gauge openings are tilted slightly towards the driver. You can find a few options on eBay if you search for something like “triple gauge pod DIN” (without quotes).
@@Vehicularious first thing I wondered was what the heck that panel was since it's so clean before realising it's the 960 interior which makes a lot of sense. On a 940 your best bet imho is to rebuild the fan box and radio to a more simple design and then put the gauges there for a less rice-y install.
@@tracklizard4018 I get a lot of questions and comments about this gauge pod install, partly because I think people like it, but also because it throws off other 940/740 owners, for the reasons you stated.
I installed an aftermarket stereo in my 740, and it’s nowhere near as clean.
@@Vehicularious You can fit two 52mm gauges if you press them in next to the ciggie lighter and under the radio. Moving the climate control unit to somewhere like into the glovebox and installing a phone radio controller gives you enough room for another 6 gauges. A ciggie lighter delete give you enough room for three gauges in that row. Much better than a pillar or removing air vents etc imo.
Will this also work voor 2.3 lpt
Yes, my understanding is that the main difference between the LPT and HPT is the wastegate spring tension. A manual boost controller should work fine to raise the boost on an LPT car. I am located in America, and they never sold the LPT cars here, so I am speculating.
@@Vehicularious ah yes it the one you have is a normal turbo or smaller one
@@bartwesterink1434 my turbo on this car is a Garrett T25, which was the stock turbo size on the 940 SE.
Is that a 960 interior swap?
This is a 940 SE, which was only produced in 1991. It uses the same interior as the late 760 and the 960 cars. It was sort of a car that bridged the gap between the outgoing 760 and incoming 960.
@@Vehicularious Wow, somehow that information eluded me. Probably because we did not have those in Europe.
Is it a 2.0 or 2.3?
This was a 2.3 engine