Worked! I was able to fix my 24-70mm and 24-105mm's wide angle focus! Turning my Viltrox's speed booster lens did the trick! Took a while but happy there was a solution.
Great video! Informative and fun to watch! You know, in the old days, focus pullers had no way to see if things were in focus - nor did camera operators: only after development they would know. I'm a hobbyist and I'm not using a speedbooster - just trying to hook an M42 full frame 600mm lens into my MFT GX85 camera - and your video helped me a lot! Thanks!
Yep I was a focus puller for a decade before moving up to DP'ing jobs. Still miss the film days. No monitors. Just measuring tapes, marks and your own skill. Glad the video helped.
I am not a Videographer , but i do feel for you . However i am an Astrophotographer , and i have suffered lens wiggle a lot , and so i know , Lens support wont fix it , because wiggle is not in the lens adapter per say all the time , it is in the lens it self , front lens assembly in canon 55-200 F3.5-5.6 APSC lens has a shit ton of wiggle of the front lens assembly , so its not in the back , and if you hold it you cant focus ... for it must move to focus . Next i went with Tair 3 , a Tank of a lens , full metal , serious business , but it uses Rack and pinion focus , very strange , mounted in the front lens , alas if you push it it tilts about 0,5 -1mm , and that is enough to shift your focus on infinity with tight stars on the image , maybe not in portrait but stars sure . Its fixable , im just mentioning it to show you that it is not the Camera and lens mount , it is the front lens . So , i can imagine a videographer changing focus , and the pressure of that will wiggle the front element ,just like i observed , and that WILL NOT be fixed with Lens mount holders and stuff , because it is not the back of the lens that is problematic , it is the front that moves , hence you can not fix it firmly in place , if you want your focus in the lens . If you take all of the lens and move it for focus then you can , like telescopes do , not moving the lens but camera it self . But i guess this wont work for video . So lens holders will fix it up a bit , but not remove it completely .
Cool video. I was wondering if CineChimp has gotten around to doing a review of the LucAdapters BMCC 2.5k focal reducer? I've not seen anyone do a video on that specific focal reducer, and since that product has been sold out forever now, I can't just do my own review. LOL
To achieve the stop motion effect: did you just set the framerate lower (I would be interested in how much exactly) or how did you achieve this effect? I feel I should know but it looks more sophisticated than that..I love it! Thanks!
Great video man, much easier to understand with the demonstrations etc. Question though... what if you're trying to be really scrappy and get some life out of some old K mount lenses? I've screwed the Viltrox element in as far as I can get it and my widest lens is about an inch off it's minimum focus, (not getting any infinity on any of my lenses wide open.) I've never used the witness marks so is it possible to work in the opposite direction? Set myself up for a landscape and then throw the lens to it's longest focal reach and then mess around with the Viltrox element until I get something passable? Either that, accept defeat to mid-range aperture or bother my old man for his lathe?
Hey mate, thanks for the positive vibes. Im a tinkerer, so Id hit up the old man.....hahaha. Hmmm, I thought there was a speed booster you could get for K mount to MFT, I think its from Kipon a Japanese company. More expensive - but Japanese products are always better manufactured than Chinese stuff. I'd try one of those and sell off the Viltrox if its that far out. Otherwise you have to find that happy mid ground and as long as you can work with that.....
@@cinechimp Thanks for the tip-off about Kipon! I couldn't find that one specifically but I did manage to snap up the last Pixco/Roxsen one on ebay so watch this space. It's known to produce the dreaded blue haze but with literally no one else manufacturing a k to m43 (why not I have no idea...) beggars can't be choosers! Hopefully it'll come out in the grade... Will probably still mess around with old mate's lathe a bit and see what we get, hopefully just have to shave a bit off the back of a cheap k to ef. Ah well. At least it'll keep his mind off the election.
Hi. Trying to get infinity focus on bmpcc4k with a sigma 18-35 using viltrox mk2. Can achieve this zoomed out and zoomed in but not both at the same time. Just try for the middle?
Hi Paul, you should follow the video. You may find that you are very slightly off the mark. Super small movements. Also the sigma 18-35 is NOT par-focal, meaning it wont be in critical focus if you zoom in to grab focus and then zoom out.
The short answer is NO, but some lens from factory aren't built with super tight tolerances, namely a lot of cheaper lenses. What type of lenses are in question, how old are they and when was the last time they were serviced? Without the speed booster, on each lenses native mount, do the distance markings on your longer lenses line up to measured distances from the focal plane? Nevertheless, what I would say is this: focus is way more critical close to the camera and is where you really need to stuff to line up. When subjects are way off in the distance you have a lot of room to nail focus because of the increased DOF. So if your longer lenses are going past the infinity mark and things look in focus before hitting the end stop, I wouldn't worry about it - unless you are doing something super critical for a high-end production and VFX.
Hey Robin, Great question. With non parfocal zooms like your sigma 18-35, yes. Infinity focus on that lens is different depending on where you focus lens angle is set. Its not like a prime, where infinity focus is infinity focus. So you should always use a prime to set your depth of focus or at a minimum a parfocal zoom.
What is preferred. In my case I have a Tokina 11-20, ATX-i, Ef mount, and a Sigma 18-35, mounted to a metabones speedbooster. I don't have infinity focus on my Tokina, but if I adjust for Tokina on the speedbooster will my Sigma lens's focus be off?
Hi Bryan, thats a great question. As to which is prefered, that will depend on the level of work your doing. If you have a focus puller that needs those marks to be spot on, follow whats in the video for sure. If your just pulling focus yourself getting the lens to infinite focus is important, but probably dont need to match the lesnes witness marks. If both lenses are native EF mount then the should have an identical flange distance and therefore and identical depth of focus. In theory if one lens is out, then all the others should also be out as well. Your Sigma may well be giving you infinity focus, but may not be lining up on the actual witness marks. Wide angle lenses have a shallower depth of focus, which is why you should set it to your 11mm Tokina. But how old your tokina lens is, how much backlash is in the mechanisms and how precise the actual marks on the lens still are (if it hasnt been serviced) all play a factor. If the witness marks meaning nothing to the way you shoot and your happy with your sigmas performance, the question I would ask is how many times on a shoot do you use your 11-20 for shots where the subject is at infinity focal plane? I mean 11mm, thats super wide on a speed booster for either s35 or m4/3rds. Meaning your subject would be super small in frame and even if calibrated properly, it would be very hard to differentiate perceivable focus from critical focus, even with landscapes. Unless the lens is way out of focus at those distances. Hope this helps.
That is exactly the issue I have. I have the Speedbooster adjusted to give me infinite focus on my Sigma 18 to 35, but when I put on my Tokina 11 to 16mm I cannot focus to infinity. I think the best solution is to get a separate speed booster for my Tokina. Hope this might be of help to you also. I use the Viltrox EF-M2
@@JohnOsCreations I achieved both infinity and Parfocal for both my lens. You have to experiment. My metabones operated well, but not sure with viltrox.
I'm having a lot of trouble with my speed booster, but the problem is that mine is INTERNAL, it goes inside the Black Magic Production 4K, and it can barely focus on anything past 1-2 feet. I'm soo desperate....any help?
@@cinechimp YES. I even opened up my Tokina and performed the 'ChristianSchmeer" fix, and it barely improved. If I rotate the magic booster focus element, it starts getting closer to focus, but the glass elements get loose and start rattling inside. *sigh*
@@lfcruzsierra Oh - you are doing everything right then. have you contacted the guys over at Magic booster? They are pretty good. Maybe they sent you the wrong optical element?? Just a thought. Otherwise you should (in theory) be able to drop it in and way you go.
@@cinechimp Yeah, they asked me if I can replicate the problem with other lenses....sadly I don't have any other EF lenses with me, as I mainly collect FD lenses. I will try to test it as soon as I get my hands on more EF lenses and get back to them. Thanks for helping out.
This is the best edited youtube tutorial video i've ever seen. Taking notes!
WOW - and Im not even an editor. ;)
Worked! I was able to fix my 24-70mm and 24-105mm's wide angle focus! Turning my Viltrox's speed booster lens did the trick! Took a while but happy there was a solution.
oh great!
What...? How...? Why...? When...? Didn`t understand anything but other than that, Great Review!
Wow! This is so much good content! this chanel will guet big soon, subscribing right now!
Welcome aboard! Thanks for the props brother.
So much work for a video! Great stuff
Thanks a ton!
Great video! Informative and fun to watch! You know, in the old days, focus pullers had no way to see if things were in focus - nor did camera operators: only after development they would know. I'm a hobbyist and I'm not using a speedbooster - just trying to hook an M42 full frame 600mm lens into my MFT GX85 camera - and your video helped me a lot! Thanks!
Yep I was a focus puller for a decade before moving up to DP'ing jobs. Still miss the film days. No monitors. Just measuring tapes, marks and your own skill. Glad the video helped.
More amazing info and creative delivery.
Much appreciated!
Very hight quality video!
Thanks brother!
Thanks. Will try quarter turns.
Oh Paul try 1/16th
haha this is actually a great resource mate! Really really awesome.
oh thanks mate. glad you got sometihng from it.
I am not a Videographer , but i do feel for you . However i am an Astrophotographer , and i have suffered lens wiggle a lot , and so i know , Lens support wont fix it , because wiggle is not in the lens adapter per say all the time , it is in the lens it self , front lens assembly in canon 55-200 F3.5-5.6 APSC lens has a shit ton of wiggle of the front lens assembly , so its not in the back , and if you hold it you cant focus ... for it must move to focus .
Next i went with Tair 3 , a Tank of a lens , full metal , serious business , but it uses Rack and pinion focus , very strange , mounted in the front lens , alas if you push it it tilts about 0,5 -1mm , and that is enough to shift your focus on infinity with tight stars on the image , maybe not in portrait but stars sure . Its fixable , im just mentioning it to show you that it is not the Camera and lens mount , it is the front lens .
So , i can imagine a videographer changing focus , and the pressure of that will wiggle the front element ,just like i observed , and that WILL NOT be fixed with Lens mount holders and stuff , because it is not the back of the lens that is problematic , it is the front that moves , hence you can not fix it firmly in place , if you want your focus in the lens . If you take all of the lens and move it for focus then you can , like telescopes do , not moving the lens but camera it self . But i guess this wont work for video .
So lens holders will fix it up a bit , but not remove it completely .
This all sounds cool. Is there anywhere we can see your work? Did the new huntsman astro lens? Crazy
Cool video. I was wondering if CineChimp has gotten around to doing a review of the LucAdapters BMCC 2.5k focal reducer? I've not seen anyone do a video on that specific focal reducer, and since that product has been sold out forever now, I can't just do my own review. LOL
Its coming, but I throughly test everything before putting forward my opinions
Excellent explanation
Thanks for the positive feedback
To achieve the stop motion effect: did you just set the framerate lower (I would be interested in how much exactly) or how did you achieve this effect? I feel I should know but it looks more sophisticated than that..I love it! Thanks!
Hi there. No its real frame by frame animation
Great video man, much easier to understand with the demonstrations etc.
Question though... what if you're trying to be really scrappy and get some life out of some old K mount lenses? I've screwed the Viltrox element in as far as I can get it and my widest lens is about an inch off it's minimum focus, (not getting any infinity on any of my lenses wide open.) I've never used the witness marks so is it possible to work in the opposite direction? Set myself up for a landscape and then throw the lens to it's longest focal reach and then mess around with the Viltrox element until I get something passable?
Either that, accept defeat to mid-range aperture or bother my old man for his lathe?
Hey mate, thanks for the positive vibes.
Im a tinkerer, so Id hit up the old man.....hahaha.
Hmmm, I thought there was a speed booster you could get for K mount to MFT, I think its from Kipon a Japanese company. More expensive - but Japanese products are always better manufactured than Chinese stuff. I'd try one of those and sell off the Viltrox if its that far out.
Otherwise you have to find that happy mid ground and as long as you can work with that.....
@@cinechimp Thanks for the tip-off about Kipon! I couldn't find that one specifically but I did manage to snap up the last Pixco/Roxsen one on ebay so watch this space. It's known to produce the dreaded blue haze but with literally no one else manufacturing a k to m43 (why not I have no idea...) beggars can't be choosers! Hopefully it'll come out in the grade...
Will probably still mess around with old mate's lathe a bit and see what we get, hopefully just have to shave a bit off the back of a cheap k to ef. Ah well. At least it'll keep his mind off the election.
@@Carol_Thompson well if you do grind it down I would be very interested to se ethe results
Hi. Trying to get infinity focus on bmpcc4k with a sigma 18-35 using viltrox mk2. Can achieve this zoomed out and zoomed in but not both at the same time. Just try for the middle?
Hi Paul, you should follow the video. You may find that you are very slightly off the mark. Super small movements. Also the sigma 18-35 is NOT par-focal, meaning it wont be in critical focus if you zoom in to grab focus and then zoom out.
so i set my speed booster to infinity at 17mm. But my longer lenses now go past the infinity, is that supposed to happen?
The short answer is NO, but some lens from factory aren't built with super tight tolerances, namely a lot of cheaper lenses. What type of lenses are in question, how old are they and when was the last time they were serviced? Without the speed booster, on each lenses native mount, do the distance markings on your longer lenses line up to measured distances from the focal plane?
Nevertheless, what I would say is this: focus is way more critical close to the camera and is where you really need to stuff to line up. When subjects are way off in the distance you have a lot of room to nail focus because of the increased DOF. So if your longer lenses are going past the infinity mark and things look in focus before hitting the end stop, I wouldn't worry about it - unless you are doing something super critical for a high-end production and VFX.
Is infinity focus with zoom lenses diferent? (Sigma 18-35;50-100)
Great video!
Hey Robin, Great question. With non parfocal zooms like your sigma 18-35, yes. Infinity focus on that lens is different depending on where you focus lens angle is set. Its not like a prime, where infinity focus is infinity focus. So you should always use a prime to set your depth of focus or at a minimum a parfocal zoom.
Very informative
Glad it was helpful!
What is preferred. In my case I have a Tokina 11-20, ATX-i, Ef mount, and a Sigma 18-35, mounted to a metabones speedbooster. I don't have infinity focus on my Tokina, but if I adjust for Tokina on the speedbooster will my Sigma lens's focus be off?
Hi Bryan, thats a great question.
As to which is prefered, that will depend on the level of work your doing. If you have a focus puller that needs those marks to be spot on, follow whats in the video for sure.
If your just pulling focus yourself getting the lens to infinite focus is important, but probably dont need to match the lesnes witness marks.
If both lenses are native EF mount then the should have an identical flange distance and therefore and identical depth of focus. In theory if one lens is out, then all the others should also be out as well.
Your Sigma may well be giving you infinity focus, but may not be lining up on the actual witness marks.
Wide angle lenses have a shallower depth of focus, which is why you should set it to your 11mm Tokina.
But how old your tokina lens is, how much backlash is in the mechanisms and how precise the actual marks on the lens still are (if it hasnt been serviced) all play a factor.
If the witness marks meaning nothing to the way you shoot and your happy with your sigmas performance, the question I would ask is how many times on a shoot do you use your 11-20 for shots where the subject is at infinity focal plane?
I mean 11mm, thats super wide on a speed booster for either s35 or m4/3rds. Meaning your subject would be super small in frame and even if calibrated properly, it would be very hard to differentiate perceivable focus from critical focus, even with landscapes. Unless the lens is way out of focus at those distances. Hope this helps.
That is exactly the issue I have. I have the Speedbooster adjusted to give me infinite focus on my Sigma 18 to 35, but when I put on my Tokina 11 to 16mm I cannot focus to infinity. I think the best solution is to get a separate speed booster for my Tokina. Hope this might be of help to you also. I use the Viltrox EF-M2
@@JohnOsCreations I achieved both infinity and Parfocal for both my lens. You have to experiment. My metabones operated well, but not sure with viltrox.
@@JohnOsCreations Yes I use the same one. I have the RF to EF speedbooster now as well so its interesting to see what differences there actually are
I'm having a lot of trouble with my speed booster, but the problem is that mine is INTERNAL, it goes inside the Black Magic Production 4K, and it can barely focus on anything past 1-2 feet. I'm soo desperate....any help?
I gather you are talking about a magic booster?
@@cinechimp YES. I even opened up my Tokina and performed the 'ChristianSchmeer" fix, and it barely improved.
If I rotate the magic booster focus element, it starts getting closer to focus, but the glass elements get loose and start rattling inside. *sigh*
@@lfcruzsierra Oh - you are doing everything right then. have you contacted the guys over at Magic booster? They are pretty good. Maybe they sent you the wrong optical element?? Just a thought. Otherwise you should (in theory) be able to drop it in and way you go.
@@cinechimp Yeah, they asked me if I can replicate the problem with other lenses....sadly I don't have any other EF lenses with me, as I mainly collect FD lenses. I will try to test it as soon as I get my hands on more EF lenses and get back to them. Thanks for helping out.
@@lfcruzsierra Take your setup to you local photography store and test them for free there. Then you'll know without spending any money.
Great video! helped me a lot! might get back to you if I´m stuck. Subbed!
Oh wow, glad it helped you out and I'm humbled to have you subscribed.