Why I Almost Never Use The Masking Tape Super Glue Trick
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- Опубликовано: 30 июн 2024
- This video will explain why I rarely use the masking tape super glue trick. If you would like to help support my channel and get something cool in return, please consider the following: www.eguitarplans.com/
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I have seen videos from people who should know better laying some heavy criticism on the tape and CA glue idea - and then doing it wrong. It's like every woodworking technique. It has its place and places where it doesn't belong. Your video seems a rare one as it adheres to this simple idea; use what works. 👍
I've not had many issues with the masking tape not sticking to the MDF spoilboard. Maybe your MDF or tape is different, but for me it works as long as I burnish it properly (Not just with my hands as you showed in the demo, but with something like a dowel, or the back of the tape roll. You need to see a slight color change to know it's actually fully stuck down).
That is not to say it's a technique that always works, especially on bigger pieces you need to watch out that they're properly flat, otherwise it does not work.
My problem with clamps is that I like to be able to machine all the way around, without tabs whenever possible. Also for using the CNC to flatten or thickness boards regular clamps don't work (edge clamps would work, but they can be a bit finicky to use).
I’ve used the tape and glue for years now without a problem, just as fast as clamps, just need a clean spoil board and work piece. Pro’s- fast (yes), no clamps in the way think surfacing, no tabs needed to hold or to be cut and cleaned. Con’s- not so good for really small pieces, you can go through a lot of glue and tape. I use green painters tape, medium viscosity glue and accelerator and I literally have to pry the piece off the work board when I’m done. For pearl inlays I glue the pearl to a piece of hardboard with fish or hide glue and tape and glue the hardboard to the work board. Soak in hot water when done and the inlays come free. I guess everybody has their way of doing things, just have to weigh the pros and cons.
If you dribble a little naptha at the edge of your part and pry up gently, the naptha will be drawn under the part via capillary action and it makes quick work of breaking the tape bond!
I make necks on the CNC as well using a combination of tape/ca and locating pins. I use regular masking tape, not painter’s blue tape. Never had one budge. Just gotta make sure the spoilboard is dust free and the wood is flat.
At an average of $0.03 per foot and $3.50 per OZ of glue and kicker. Clamps are by far cheaper over time. However on occasion I use it to keep clear paths for some hand tools. Especially on small parts.
It's interesting to see it not be successful for you, I've used clamping some times and tape others and have no issues with it holding. I've even used the tape method to make reasonably chunky cuts out of aluminum and it has held firm - you can see it recommended across some machinist channels
I find the tape and glue method works much better if you first burnish/press the tape into the spoil board and stock with a blunt edge.
I agree with you. I've used the tape trick myself but not very often. Its one of those things that works in certain applications. I'd rather find a better way to hold parts down.
Nice idea putting it on plywood like that, I'll be doing that from here on out.
Set my reminder
Nice video. I've never seen many situations where the tape and glue method is the best for me. Some folks praise it as a miracle it seems. If it works for them, great. But I rarely use it. And I'm not using a CNC, just regular router.
Love the info you provide.
😌 Please, make compensated nut and how to make your guitar PRS intonation
I can do a compensated nut, but I don't know what PRS intonation is.
@@HighlineGuitars PRS intonation = How to make your guitar intonation like a pro - without compensated nut
Yes, you are so right. The a glue/tape technique is a very limited technique. Great to work a one off bridge blank, or tu make a veneer patch... NO😅T not for production.
It's all about the situation. I have a little Chinese desktop machine and only do small parts, very slowly. (very slowly) The masking tape and super glue trick works great for me. Super fast and doesn't take up room that clamps do on my small bed. I'd love to have a beast like that pro machine you have. But I don't have the space for it. (Wife won't let me put it in the guest room. I think guests could sleep on the couch, but the wife won't have it.)
I just got done planing a thin piece of oak with a jointer hand plane. I held it in place with strategically placed hot glue at various intervals around the edges of it and a bit underneath it. Worked great. I mean I'm not a CNC machine but the jointer plane is pretty big.
I can't hot glue blanks to the waste board.
Gotcha. I think your clamps are great, actually. I wasn't meaning to say my idea would work for you, just wanted to leave it as something for others to see in case it fits a situation theyre in
Yea Blue Tape is only good for small intricate pieces that could move around. Other wise a waste of time and money. Been there done that. This is what I do. I drill a hole in each corner of my work piece (sometimes also middle edge screws for long pieces). Grab the correct length drywall screw (rough thread), and screw that work piece right to my cnc bed. That piece will never move, bend, or lift while cutting! It is super fast and I do not have to worry about snapping a bit off on the hold down bolts. Most machine beds are mdf, and I know some of you want to keep it looking pretty. But mdf is cheap. And you would be amazed how many times you can drive a screw in it. If you only have one layer of mdf double it up if you need a thicker base. The little dimple that is left on the table when the screw is removed is easily eliminated by a small wood block with a piece of 100 grit paper glued to it.
I'd have to replace my waste board at least twice a month. No thanks!
Love the background music! 😂
I never found any use for the masking tap "trick". Seems to be more popular in the UK where I guess double sided tape is harder to come by.
That's how this started for me. It's not that double-sided tape is hard to find in the UK, but finding some that holds firmly enough and doesn't leave sticky residue all over the wood when you peel it off.
👍
I understand why not to use the masking tape super glue trick for CNC operations, but Im going to use it to install a Gary Willis style ramp on my solidbody Kala U-Bass. I'll get a 12" radius block from Stewmac to match the radius of the ramp to the fingerboard radius. What do you think about this method?
do you by any chance use location pins to flip bodies and take the guesswork out of the equation?
I still don't own a CNC (building one at the moment), but while using MDF templates it's always a pain to align the templates accurately, I don't feel like keeping that work flow on a CNC...
ruclips.net/video/qF-at76qpUY/видео.htmlsi=KzcHyqvWriOknPTX&t=50
@@HighlineGuitars that's such a smart way!, I also never build the same instrument twice, so this is definetly super helpful!
Thanks for the answer on this topic 😂 seems my last comment on this channel inspired you to make that video 😅
Apologies for being late. Family issue.
For the back screw you have on those clamps, is it epoxied into place or something? Just wondering if it starts to spin in the clamp as the CNC is running if that could loosen the whole clamp.
The screws thead into a threaded inserts installed into the bottom of the wasteboard.
@@HighlineGuitars Ok, but you are talking about the black screws, right?
I meant the other ones and how they are secured into the wooden clamp...or are they ok to just be screwed into the clamp with no worry of backing out?
@@piptyson5512 Those are carriage bolts. They’re re installed into threaded inserts as well. Once the clamp screws are tightened, they can’t spin.
@@HighlineGuitars Ok thanks again Chris!
carpet tape!
NO! Carpet tape is too elastic.
@@HighlineGuitars have you used low profile clamps? Clamps the edge of the wood and have a grub screw at an angle to put downard pressure on the wood
@@RockGodZeppelin Yes. They aren't strong enough to resist the forces of high speed machining.
Wait, so people really do ask you a question that basically amounts to "Hey why don't you do that in a way that is obviously at first glance an order of magnitude worse than what you do?"? Wild.