Freon recovery on the cheap homemade Air conditioning recovery machine
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- Опубликовано: 28 июл 2018
- Air conditioning machine built from old parts. The most inexpensive way to recover freon, Get a pump from a old window unit someone puts by the curb. Note this is not proper hardware to recover with do/use at your own risk. I recommend at least purchasing the proper recovery tank.
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Cheaper refrigerant recovery unit: Put the recovery tank in a bucket of ice. (No compressor is needed.) Connect to manifolds, and open H and L valves. The refrigerant will condense inside the tank, leaving no liquid refrigerant in the HVAC system and only a trace pressure of gaseous refrigerant in the lines. It's not perfect, but it will recover 99% of the refrigerant. Caveat: If there is a check valve on the tank, that will have to be disabled. On my recovery tank, there's no check valve. Bonus: It's impossible to over-pressurize the recovery tank.
99% sounds high to me but if it gets like 80% that's pretty good
When the comment is better info than the video 😮
That's methed up lol
I was wondering if this worked . I use to extract hash oil with a closed loop system and we used dry ice under recovery tank and would suck all butane thru system for recovery. All the shops I've worked at have machines but would like to do side work and was thinking of getting a recovery tank and chilling it same way and it would recover all freon . And just weigh it before and after . Thanks .
😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅
I'm a smalltime mobile mechanic, I have a snap-on KoolKare Plus machine I bought when I had my shop. Now that I've scaled back my work, and the cost of refrigerant going nuts (at least $10.00 a pound) I don't do much ac work now, so I'm selling my machine.
What little ac work I do now this setup will do the trick, I'm gonna add a scale to the setup.
A customer replaced his house ac unit and gave me the old one... didn't know what to do with the compressor, now I do.
Thanks for the video.
Also too, the scale, fittings, hoses and stuff will cost less than the new filter you can only purchase from snap-on. So when I sell my machine, I'll let the buyer change the filter for $160.00, I'll make this thing, and have a couple bucks left over to play with.
I did the same thing with a freezer compressor but used an old propane tank without the internal float and valve. Been an auto tech for 40 years and have thrown away tons of spent R134a cylinders not knowing about being able to mod the valve so it could be used to recover. What a great tip! Also, putting your recovery cylinder in the freezer helps.
That was AWESOME. I'm going to build the same setup! Thanks for a great video.
This was awesome, I'd love to see a bit more on what you ended up doing for this little system!
Like you say, much better than the average home gamer solution!
Thank you for doing your part and keep the glove clean.
I like this dude, this is what we all look like at home. We just figuring out as we go along. this was real cool to watch. I don't hit the red button much but, subscribed
it certainly would be nice to see the actual connectors/hoses you used to make this setup. Thanks for sharing this.
He said #4 AN fittings
YoutTube hero dude! RUclips needs to give you a medal of honor! I wondered how I could build something to not waste all my refridgerant when I work on an AC system. Short of buying a multi thousand dollar recovery machine. Thanks!
When I make my home made vacuum pump out of an old window AC unit, I reused the control panel switch. Yes, it also works super fast.
Need a step by step on building this, detailed video of hoses, parts needed. Enjoy how it works but would like to attempt assembling one, thanks 👍🏼
Hello from the future, this is even more relevant in 2022 hyperinflation era than ever before.
I knew there was a better way : ) i work on a lot of ac systems for ppl who can't afford to go to the stealerships
"According to the state of California I'm already dead" - hahaha, too funny
Cool video sir.
Easy temperature / pressure check will tell if there is contamination in the recovery tank when compared to a PT chart for that refrigerant type.
Couldn't you use a regular vacuum pump in place of the window unit compressor by putting a hose on the discharge side or the vacuum pump to the old Freon tank
Nice, good on you man. Don't even bother w/ any of them haters talkin' down on what you did here.. They typically have an intelligence deficiency or a defective ego. Either way you can't win.
In the process of building my own rig but I'm just gathering knowledge right now. Got some good ideas from your video tho.
-big thanks!
😂 right lol... Some are just overly safe though and don't know what its like to truly live.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair If you're not living on the edge, you're taking up too much space. :)
And die😄@@CrazedPerformanceRepair
Like home made vac pump setups used to have a couple old ones, I believe harbor freight has cheap ones right now I don’t have one
The problem I have with this idea is that the refrigerant is in a vapor state when it leaves the compressor so you are recovering this refrigerant as a vapor not as a liquid.
What you will have to do with this system is ad a condenser and a cooling system so the vapor can change its state passing through the condenser into the tank as a liquid is always best to recover refrigerant in a liquid form as much as you can.
I built a recovery machine out of an old reciprocating compressor from a dehumidifier. It is super fast. It would definitely over pressurise my refrigerant tank if I let it. On reciprocating compressors the casing is the low pressure side and on rotary compressors the casing is the high pressure side. I lose a lot less refrigerant because of that.
Interested
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair In a few days I will upload a video on how to build a recovery machine like mine.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I made a video about my refrigerant recovery setup but I didn't talk much about my recovery machine. Here is the link... ruclips.net/video/XGopO0AJRrY/видео.html I still plan on uploading a video about my refrigerant recovery machine specifically but I haven't had the time. My current machine no longer has the dehumidifier compressor because it was to fast for the small systems I work on. The compressor I'm using now is from an R134a mini fridge. Also I should mention I work on a variety of systems with a range of refrigerants and that makes a rotary recovery system unusable for me because it would cause cross contamination of my refrigerants.
FYI, some Fords like the one you are working on used a variable displacement compressor and the valve sticks causing low volume. Ford issued a TSB to remove the control piston on back of compressor then flip the spring around to other side. This makes it 100% output all the time.
I am also building a recovery machine. I do a lot of A/C work in Texas. Have fun.
Love the machine . Be sure to purge the lines first and add a filter. thanks
I have the same question about just buying a coolant recovery machine, a tank and a scale off of the dreaded Amazon, I just got done rebuilding the ac on the wife’s truck again and there is no listed part number for the expansion valve and I picked the wrong one, the little 12oz cans are like $7/ea here and I really don’t think I need to keep buying them to get it working, 4 semis and 5 pickups at my house I’m sure I could get the use out of a recovery machine if it works for 10 years
Pretty ingenious. Only thing I'd have done differently (besides adding valves...and a cart to mount it on) would be to use a vacuum pump to evacuate the storage cylinder first. When it was opened to modify the valve it would've been contaminated with air, which you will then turn around and contaminate your AC system with once you put it back in. Unless you just plan on giving the tank to your local hazardous waste disposal collection center.
I did pull a vacuum on the tank with my separate vacuum pump. I just properly never mentioned it in this video.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair did you purge the lines before introducing refrigerant to the tank?
@@jordanmavins I pulled a full vacuum on the tank and lines before introducing any refrigerant the first time I did it. Otherwise it stays a sealed system.
great and innovative project that me or any body else would like to try some time 👌👍🤠✔👀
Yeah, I remember back in the day they told us “Freon bad!” ...with their junk science and you children still believe it without even checking it out! ...are you kids ever going to learn for yourselves or are you just going to continue to be sheep?
@@curlywolfone Freon is bad, you dolt. It’s bad for your lungs. It’s bad for your brain. It’s bad for the ozone layer. It’s bad for the greenhouse effect.
Very very good
You should have had plenty of close-ups for this.
interesting wish you showed how or close ups. i think i can do it but would be cool
Hey guy, not to be critical but you're saying, "this fitting here" and "this fitting here;" But we can't see what fittings you're talking about. You need some closer camera angles when you're saying, "here" and "here!"
He says what the fitting types and sizes are. Even better that a close up...
Can you recycle (clean) the freon as or after you recover it?
To get compressor from old a/c, he chopped up a unit that used "FREON".
Mid 90s a/c he said.
Been looking to replace the ac compressor and don’t went to just vent it out to atmosphere.
I thought about making something like this.
Should have had a scale under the tank
When you pull slower, you pull less oil with it.
My concern is not even safety but, how did you separate the R22 compressor oil from r134a refrigerant ? You definitely didn't reuse the refrigerant you recovered from the car again did you?
my calculations says there is a mixed up of both R22 & r134a refrigerant present in that window unit compressor mixed with r134a that you just pulled out of the r134a system.
R22 eats rubber hoses.
while i agree that its bad to vent to atmo. What happens when a component leaks and you lose all the refrigerant driving down the road? Can't be any more harmful than a home gamer fixing it himself even if theres a little charge left. still, really like this contraption. might have to make me one.
The advantage is saving all the refrigerant in the event you have to do a simple repair like a pressure switch
The difference is in your choice. Most people don't choose to let their refrigerant leak out, they don't want it to leak out. The problem comes when you choose to vent it on purpose.
If I am driving down the road and someones pet cat runs across the road and I am not able to avoid killing it, most people will understand. However, if they were to see me drive over on the sidewalk to intentionally kill the cat, most people would not forgive that.
@@mrmohr2 :0) Good explanation.
@@mrmohr2 well said.
Main benefit is being able to reuse the refrigerant shit is expensive i worked on industrial units that take 2k pounds or more and you wanna talk about a leak those systems ALWAYS LEAK. 1 or 2 pounds from a car is no worse than you driving the car also r134 has a low gwp.
will this work for butane?
it was quieter than i was expecting.
Just curious since I'm interested in building a pump like this, how did you connect the fittings to the copper lines and where did you get the parts?
They are AN fittings meant for performance vehicles but are basically the same as copper gas line plumping flare fittings. I get my fittings from McMaster-Carr.
Male 1/4" flare fittings are available at most any good hardware's. If you Google or look on eBay search for> Service/Access Valve 1/4" SAE * 1/4" OD 4" Stem Core AC Refrigeration< these are 1/4" flare with Schrader valves in them that are brazed onto a piece of quarter inch copper tubing 4 inches long. You can then expand the copper silver solder them or braze them on to your compressor.
@@johnsonlong1272an you braze a new copper fitting onto the galvanized tank?
@@theadjuster151 , silver solder is obviously the preferred method but the type that takes a brazing torch to heat it up preferably not the plumbing type that you can melt with a propane torch. However you could probably use regular old plumbing silver solder for your own use if you are absolutely sure you are not going to over pressurize it. I'm not going to lie to you and say that I have not used plumbing silver solder successfully because I have but it's not really designed for that application it's not as strong and can crack and develop a leak.And they do make brazing rod that is copper to steal. Remember do not breathe that galvanized off gas but most galvanized is just a coating and you can sand it off or even remove it with a bit of acid, or just not breathe it when you're heating it and it's off gassing. Also remember if you set your recovery tank in a container of dry ice it is going to recover a large amount of the gas without a recovery pump also the upside of that is it's pretty hard to over pressurize your recovery tank. Obviously all of these things are done at your own risk know your skill set and know the risk. A large rapid refrigeration liquid leak is no game folks have lost body parts due to frostbite.
I have a question I would like to ask you: I built a freon recovery system based on your design. I used a propane tank and a window A-C compressor then I added some valves to be able to connect the hoses and keep the freon from escaping. I understand from your video you had plans to make modifications to your system at some point too. My question is: did you lose refrigerant oil from the cars A-C system when you were recovering? If you did, do you have a guess on how much oil you may have loss? I haven't used mine yet so that's why I'm asking. Thank You for any advice you may provide me! I have an older A_C set that I monitor the propane tank and it got to about 130 psi. I had pulled a vacuum on the tank before starting the recovery, however, that is good advice, that tank under pressure has a lot of energy stored inside. (I have to be careful of the choice of words I used) I did get some oil come out, I was careful with the flow rate out of my cars A_C unit. My system was low on freon and was not cooling well. Check the L and H side pressure, L=20psi & H= 150psi, outside temp was 89F & 70%hg, it was running 77F inside the car. The manual indicated, for that Temp & hg, should have been L=45-55psi & H=225-250psi. Thanks again for your advice and help.
I did modify it and it doesn't seem like I'm losing oil from the vehicles. I added some valving and still need to add another filter. not sure what a propane cylinder is rated for pressure wise but pay attention to tank pressure I have a guage on mine now and never let it exceed 120psi. If you do notice oil being pulled out, that vehicle probably had too much oil to begin with. If you change out parts on the vehicle though, depending on the part you will have to add appropriate amount of oil.
Gold
Nice ..... but couldn't you use a run of the mill vacuum pump in place of the compressor by putting a hose on the discharge side of the vacuum pump to the old Freon tank
No, the seals in the pump and pump itself don't work that way.
Random question, a buddy of mine said you can drain the system by removing the valve from the lowline.... is this true? he needs to install a new condenser but is afraid of removing the lines because he doesnt want anything blowing up in his face.
It will spray refrigerant everywhere and don't let anyone catch you doing it. It a huge fine to vent it to atmosphere intentionally.
How did you get the air and all the other contaminations out of this tank and out of this old window unit compressor. Do you have an service port to connect an vacuum pump. Or you do not reuse what you put in this old cylinder , what makes sense.
It was a good working unit so no contaminates besides air/moisture. I used a vacuum pump to pull it down after adding fittings. I also don't pull down any cars with bad compressors with this pump so I don't ruin or contaminate anything. It's rare I do any ac work after all. Thing still works after all these years though. I should get a better solution but money is really tight right now.
Cool
hi, I want to do the same but wont the gas mix with the oil in the bottom
of the compressor and contaminate it ?
No, because the oil is present in all a/c systems
U need to do more explanation.
Just running the car and cracking off the high side will do the same thing. However it's very dangerous to re use a storage container. If you are crazy to do that then at least monitor the pressure on it.
You mean just let it out into the atmosphere??
@@lavishlavon No into a bottle (be careful as you could blow the bottle). I can't remember all the video. Probably best to buy a recovery machine.
@@andrewthompsonuk1 oh ok. well those machines are stupid expensive, average $800, i think $400 was cheapest i could find & they go up to 3 grand+.. i can say 4 me, it just isnt feasible, doesnt pencil out lol. im assuming the same goes 4 dude in the video although idk to what extent he messes w/ refrigerant (how often, etc.). i mean if i was [im not] to get into the ac biz then yes, ya' gotta have it.. i would probably need some help from the bank tho! its an investment 4 sure.
How did you keep from having small metal shaving get into your jug when you drilled out the old check valve?
Hold it upside down while drilling. Then used magnet with it right side up to get any steel out from the bottom. Then finally pressurized it with compressed air and let it release while I shook it upside down several times to make sure it was cleaned out.
I need to try this I have been using an ac compressor for a vacuum pump and the oil is full of crap what oil should i put in after i drain it?
Vacuum pump oil.
I understand trying to save a buck but I saw a couple things that I would question. I didn't see him pulling a vacuum on the recovery canister prior to pumping the freon into it. How do you not contaminate the recovered freon with the canister air. Which brings up a second problem. The canister he is using (an empty freon charging tank) is a "pressure vessel" not a "vacuum tank". I don't think you could pull a vacuum on it to remove the air in it before you started even if you wanted to. Lastly, those tanks are designed for a single use. I'm sure somewhere on the tank it says do no refill. Threats on they should not be refilled is not because the manufacturer just wants to sell more tanks. Those very light gage tanks are designed as are all ASME coded tanks for a particular cyclic life. When you pressurize a tank and then depressurize it - that is one cycle. Gas welding cylinders are designed for many cycles because they will be refilled many times but there is a requirement to have them periodically hydro-tested. Bottom line here is that freon canister he is using will explode once it has been cycled beyond its designed cyclic life and I'll bet if you phoned the manufacturer of that tank they would never tell you what the cyclic life is - all they would say is "DONT REFILL IT". So as old Clint Eastwood would say, "do you feel lucky punk". Other than that I applaud his ingenuity but he does need some filters and I don't think you would want to use it on multiple freon systems due to cross contaminating different refrigerant oils.
I fully agree except it did accept a vacuum and that was done prior to video. This was only a temporary solution I will be having a recovery tank this summer. And I have since added valving to the system along with a secondary filter other than the factor dryer still attached to the side of the pump. It's dangerous for sure and since you asked. Yes this punk felt lucky.
I have pulled a lot of those into a vacuum. Our old machine at the shop required us to manually refill the onboard tank when it would get low. So we would have to fit a low side R134a adapter into the tank, and hook the low side hose and recover as if we were sucking down a car. In doing so, it would pull a vacuum on the tank when it would go empty. I checked one 2 days later and it still had a full vacuum as far as the gauges could tell.
Not to complain, but just wondering out of curiosity because im thinking how to build same machine...
Dont you loose some oil from the system? I guess the oil ends up mixed with recovery compressor oil... All those professional recovery machines have a membrane that separates oil from gas, oil that comes with the gas is usually discarded and same quantity of new oil refilled.
And other question, does the recovery compressor spits some oil into the recovery tank together with gas?
Thanks for your answer!
Yeah it's not perfect that's for sure. I should at least do one with a replaceable filter. The oil does travel with freon to some extent but it's minimal. If you need to add oil it can be done while there is vacuum on the car. There is cross contamination though with this method. I guess one could maybe flush it out with pag100 every so often as that seems to be dang near a universal oil for r134.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair thanks for reply
Is there a way to recover the freon using a regular vacuum pump that you have to get anyway??
No the pump design won't let it for some reason.
Meth heads are teching lol yes jibteching them apart you will find one near a meth head already disassembled
around 5:25.. totally WRONG place to stand while filling that tank! LOL
True. Those tanks are only good for about 10 bar. He has no way to monitor the pressure going into the tank.
one way to be "a little" safer... before you connect the yellow hose to the tank, warm the tank- hair dryer/heat gun and close the valve while still hot. When the tank is at room temp and you start pumping, there will be a vacuum already in the tank.
most all countries especially in ASIA they are just venting out to AMF haha :) whenever they have problem with overfilled refrigerant/Freon Buzzzz buzz ! That’s it
Whats the first thing tech does to test pressures. Purge release to atmosphere. When widfires, earthquakes, floods, hurricanes tornadoes. All straight to atmoshere. No public air quality warnings. Its only bad in concentration
If you could get several more feet away while explaining the setup that would be more helpful. Possibly stand across the street from your building. Maybe we could look at it with binoculars.
Don't forget to watch it from your tiny cell phone screen, that's a big help as well.
Get another booster and put your mask on!😅
I've had a slow leak at the condenser for over 12 months. The other day, the air con blasted super cold air for about 10min then gave up the ghost completely. Turning air con on has no impact on the coolness of the air at all. My question, to anyone who can answer, is does this mean all the freon has leaked from the system and therefore I could begin work replacing the condenser without performing a recovery?
I didn't tell you this... but if you don't have a gauge take a small screwdriver and push one of the schrader valves and listen for pressure to release.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair So hypothetically speaking of course, if I were to push the schrader valve of the Low pressure value, and air started escaping under pressure, that would imply it is still pressurized and I would need to go to a shop to have the rest removed right? I mean, hypothetically speaking, I couldn't just continue to release the pressure right?
If it seems like it has a lot of pressure you should probably take it to a shop. If it seems like it is very low I know nothing... ;)
If anyone sees my comment please respond asap. I have a older recovery machine given to me years ago and it has a recovery tank that feels pretty full. Can i use that for charging systems? Im sure it went through its filter system. I tried recovering my truck ac with it but it says if the tank is full it wont function. Ifs tank full light isnt lighting up tho but it doesn't pump down the system. The bottle seems really full tho. I wish there was a way to see how clean that freon was because im needing to recover it a second time as i think my expansion valve isnt working right. I hate to loose another 4 lbs of freon.. And if anyone wants to give me pointers I am absolute stumped on my truck a/c. I got really good pressures and the low pressure lines get nice and cold and the evaporator makes tons of condensation but its not icing up. But i get 70 degree air out the vents. I dont get it!! My flapper things that run the temperature all close well and the evaporator is cold as shit.. Im so stumped..
Sounds like a blend door issue to me if evaporator is cold. How did you verify the blend doors are functioning properly? Not sure what vehicle you have but the door can separate/break and allow hot air by. It could also warp, they are only plastic after all...
I think you can sell the used freon in the bottle? Definitely can't reuse it not knowing what kind it is....
Hey Charlie....hows it goin?
Sometimes air is in the system you are recovering from. How do you make sure that air does not contaminate the freon in the recovery tank? I like your system.
You could purge the air from the tank every so often like the big machines do by simply venting a little bit with the keg in upright position. Air won't become liquid at these low pressures so it will always be at the top. I highly recommend a proper keg though.
Great job from tech to tech. We always have to rig something
You need a condensing coil in line between compressor and tank to dump heat and condense the gas into liquid so you don't over pressurize your tank
It condenses in the tank as it cools quickly. Also the pump can only run so high of pressure and you can feel when the tank is full of liquid.
Or you could submerge the recovery tank in a bucket full of ice and water.
You need to have a vacuum in the recovery tank first.
I did the first time just never showed it.
I lost all my faith in you now. That is a major amount of forgetting to show. It would affect the overall project. Then you say you did but didn't show it ? Right sure believe that. If you have any integrity pull this down and redo it correctly.
@@deanstuder1775 I agree. He should add close ups of all the connections and a hose diagram.
@@deanstuder1775 how about you make a video and show what he missed. Yea, I didn't think so, so sit tf down And shut tf up. Unless you're willing to put your money where your mouth is and make a video yourself, keep your lips sealed.
Why don't you do it yourselves asshats
I would at least submerge the "receiver" in a bath of ice and water to lessen the recovery head pressure.
When it heated back up to room temp later it would pressurize itself so no point.. youre never supposed to pump down a system past zero though just because of overpressurizing the tank or compressor if pumping it down to it.. trick is to just do it slow and have a vacuum on the tank already.. release the high side slowly and watch the weight of the tank. If it doesnt rise like it should be then crack open the low side with high open and throttle the high side when the pressure drops from the low.. but just use the compressor on the car or unit.. no need for an external one. Would be good to include a filter/dryer inline before the tank and a oil water separator…. But youre always gonna get oil in the refrigerant because it vaporizes and travels with it to a degree..
Where do you take the freon afterwards?
Put it back in the car.
Polyethylene glycol oil will eat the insulation off the motor windings on ya rotary compressor
Those tanks are not designed to hold the pressure. If you put moisture in that tank it can rust through. Reason the recovery tanks themselves are thicker. With moisture comes acid. If you were just to do this on a single use but you can’t return this tank for disposal/recycling. Recovering refrigerant gets hot as well Your better off buying a recovery tank and recovery machine. I get the video and it’s useful but just understand you can’t do this on the regular.
Please read the description.
Wow a guy in a white lab coat holding a clipboard out in the wild telling people what they can and can't do. I thought they kept them inside industrial facilities
Where a new video with the valves installed
I have one coming because I used the same machine for the new 1234yf.
How deep of a vacuum do you pull on that "recovery tank"? My guess is you had a 0 psig reading on that tank and you filled it with a pound or so of R-134a. You're now mixing non-condensables with your refrigerant. If you're returning it to the vehicle's A/C system you are filling the system with a non-condensable gas which will cause your system to not work right, the water will mix with the oils in the system and cause acid to form, and you will cause premature compressor failure from the acid and it trying to compress non-condensable gas. My guess is you're not pulling a vacuum on the car's system which just leaves even more non-condensable gas inside the system.
You sure assume a lot, I pulled a full vacuum on the tank and car prior to any adding freon.
That was my thought too because nothing was said about it in the video.
ball valves on every hose end. way less contamination and loss
Very cool set up! "According to the state of California, I'm already dead" ROTFLMAO You should try living here and running a shop... ...not really.
I left MN to SD because I felt MN was to much a commie state. I wouldn't touch California with a 10 mile pole at this point lol.
When we all talk about following laws and not releasing gas to atmosphere, what do you think when you know workers in countries like Thailand just vent everything to atmosphere. Doesn't it just make a mockery of our efforts? Or every little bit makes a big difference.
Get another booster and put on your mask 😅😂🤣🤣🤣🤣
*refrigerant
I used a compressor from a refrigerator for years in the radiator shop I ran. I don’t buy that fancy overpriced garbage ( refrigerant recovery systems) it’s a total waste of money. As long as it looks good and complicated nobody will bat an eye..😝
Real recovery tanks are cheapest 80 bucks. Used propane tank darn near free, Cars only hold a couple pounds of R134A, some less. Actually just dump the gas into the air. Remember all these new gasses are "safe" for the atmosphere LOL.
Couldnt you just take a tank, drill checkball out, submerge tank in ice, then pull a vaccum on tank, then hook manifold set to car, only slightly open Hi side, purge air out hose until freon shoots out. Connect hose to chilled vacuumed tank, open Hi side wide open then open tank valve wide open then shut recovery tank off once max pressure from car system has decreased to zero. ????
It wont decrease to zero even with a larger tank. It will get close though. That also won't allow you to put it back in the vehicle unless you do this in the winter and have a warmed tank with the vacuum on the vehicle outside in freezing weather.
Printed right on the tank:
“ Federal law forbids Transportation
if refilled -penalty up to $500,000 fine and 5 years imprisonment (49 USC 5124)
DOT-39 NRC260/325 M1005”
And states all over it:
“do not use for compressed air”
“do not refill with any material”
“this is a non reusable cylinder”
Yup, and it was temporary plus never gets transported with anything in it.
You must be the law
Zack, you're the type of guy that sucks dick for gas money, then takes the bus.
Wow an asshat with a clipboard telling people what they can and can't do. Asshat
No i was just reading off the tank.. ive done this a few times before.. trying to deter the dumb fucks from attempting..
That's essentially what those 400dollar evacuators have inside minus the gages.
Wish I could find one for $400. Even used they are usually $2k plus it's crazy.
First thing i don't see is something to regulate pressure kinda scary isn't it lol?
The only thing regulating pressure was me at this point I have since been adding to the makeshift machine to make it safer.
That's good lol, I know as long as the tanks empty would never over fill but if it were ever over pressurized it would go off like a Freon grenade haha. Either way good idea it's nice to see people attempt to reclaim it rather then purge into the air !!
@@zack6892 I believe those tanks come with a valve which is sort like a three-way valve, that is it looks like a "Fourway Tee". The valve is at the top acts as a needle valve which closes or opens the inlet to the tank the common port #1. the second port is to connect the refrigeration hose, used to fill the system. The third port is not an operating port but rather has a not removal high pressure relief valve. Which may act as a safety to overpressure, Right?
My man, a fellow zackeus von zackshire from zacksville.. sup..
Freon hasn't been used for refrigerant since the early 90s and I still hear younger generation people calling refrigerant Freon instead😶 it doesn't bother me when I hear the old school generation using the term freon but when I hear younger folks saying it makes me wonder if they know what the hell they're talking about regarding anything else.
Well I do still tune and rebuild carburators... Freon is just a brand name. Kinda like Kleenex. I'm Yung but a bit old-school mixed with new school. Learned a lot of my ac knowledge from a old timer when I was in my teens so I suppose it rubbed off on me lol.
If r134a is sold by the Chemors company, it's still called Freon as that's their brand name for their line of refrigerants. So this idea that freon isn't used anymore is not accurate.
1234yf stonks here I come!
Yup I have a video using the same machine for 1234yf I haven't had the time to finish yet I will be getting out soon ish.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I work in an independent shop and we do work for used car lots. About once a month we get a car that needs AC work and has the new stuff, I figure by this time next year a machine will be a necessity.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I have an old water cooler that Im gonna pull everything out of but the compressor, and hopefully hook everything up to an arduino with a weight sensor and everything so it can be automated.
@@nbarrager heck yeah, that would be awesome. You going to add simple screen and buttons or just buttons? I'd prob go full raspberrypi and give it a touch screen. Would be so much cheaper then a recovery machine. Only downside would be the amount of build time it would take lol. I'd have to have the scale, vacuum pump, compressor, filters and all.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I'm not a huge fan of touch controls, plus the pi's boot time is significantly longer than an arduino and this is something that would be moved around the shop. I also already have an arduino i'm not doing anything with. I'm thinking a knob that lets you chose between recover and charge with a little lcd display that gives instructions and lets you set times and what not. And an 8 segment display that tells you how much refrigerant is in the tank at all times. The most daunting component to find would be an electronic valve that would let me change between recover and charge. Maybe a heat pump reversing valve??
It's a dangerous way. The vial can explode
Absolutely could if not careful. It would be stupid to try and actually fill that kind of keg.
@@CrazedPerformanceRepair I know the Ford has about 800 grams of Freon...And you pull it to a continent that can absorb 13 kilograms of Freon...I live in a desert that can heat up to 50 degrees in summer..In this case 800 grams of hot gas in high temperature can explode....It is best to add condenser with fan for Turn the gas to liquid ..Will be safer and more gas can be recovered.
Pretty sure that bottle he is drawing the freon into, holds more than 30oz from a single car. However, he should install a guage to be sure the bottle is not already pressurized from previous use. Sometimes in the shop it can be easy to forget.
@@DGOfTheCentury - Most AC shops will have a scale to tell them the tare weight of the canister they are storing the freon in. Shop technician then weighs the canister before and after each exchange.
A small freon bottle like this is sold as a 30# bottle.
@@fakiirification should not do it fast ,like you say, removing ht valve core,or a lot of OIL will spray out!!! you mean,do it s l o w l y...
Very old school and very fucking dangerous. We use to do that back in the 50s and 60s, actually recovering the freon did not come out till the 70s and not for the environment to save the customer a few $$. 1994 made venting freon into the atmosphere illegal. Buy a recovery machine kid.
Take another booster and put your mask back on while you're trolling 😅😂!
The reason for the check valve in the can is to stop ppl from refilling
Thats why we take them out to hell with the stealerships
Get another booster and put your mask back on while you're trolling 😅😂🤣🤣🤣
Ok, I get the $$ part, but you don't have goggles or gloves, don't use a home made recovery machine, these will get hot and need room for expansion, it's dangerous, I have seen one explode where the recovery machine has failed, Be Safe and wise
I wander why air force 1 ain't got a catalytic converter or space x rockets or fighter jets or all the misses and rockets being fired in Ukraine
Perhaps because there isn't hundreds of millions being flown around ever day. I'm not at all pro emissions control. Seems pretty silly to make a clean burning rocket for only using once then exploding emissions all over the target area... just saying.
Plus I've been in Chicago in the morning and seen how thick the smog is. Not saying emission control is the answer at all though. It really comes down to a population density issues. That will be fixed soon enough though. The way the big cities are at war with themselves combined with the food shortages. Yeah, population density reduction is under way. They should keep those regulations among themselves In dense areas and leave the country folk alone. We do more to help the environment then they ever will.
Take another booster and put your mask back on 😅😂🤣🤣🤣
You have no regard for safety do you? Not only do you have a home made recovery with no safety features, but you don't even have basic PPE to protect your eyes and hands.
That's not a recovery tank! It's illegal to use that tank as a recovery tank.
He’s right.. federal law forbids it., if refilled -penalty up to $500,000 fine and 5 years imprisonment (49 USC 5124)
And states all over it do not use for compressed air, do not refill with any material, this is a non reusable cylinder.
As an hvac tech there is so much wrong with this I don’t even know what to say. Dunno what’s worse the fact you actually do this or the fact that so many people in the comments think it’s a good idea.
Exactly
Cant see anything sorry
You’re way too close. Think you can back the camera up a bit? Ha jk
Innovative solution, would be interested in learning more.
What the *#@&% are you going to do with the refrigerant you just put into the bottle?
I don't remember writing that. One clue that that was written by an imposter was that I tend to use crude words like *#@&% only in exceptional circumstances.
@@soilmanted take your meds
Guys COME ON there are several wrong things here at least one DANGEROUS. And it is ILLEGAL to re-use disposable refrigerant cans in this way. 1---what compressor oil, likely WRONG oil. 2...No condenser, why you didn't use the original window banger condenser is beyond me 3.. pumping HOT GAS (high pressure) into that can is dangerous and may in fact blow the relief blow off open.
IF YOU ARE GOING TO DO THIS US A CONDENSER (and fan or water cooling) COOL the can in a big bucket of flowing water, MAKE SURE the correct / compatible oil is used
Against the EPA by using a old refrigerant cylinder. Hide your kids, hide your wifes!
I just vent the shit. Every car accident that involves a front end collision vents the refrigerant. You can buy 30lb as cheap as 99 bucks. At less than 4 dollars a pound, vent it. Lol. Keyboard dusters still use the same crap. Everyone is venting this crap. Why bother reclaiming it? Hell, might be full of air or contamination anyhow.
I didn't even realize that air dust cans can commonly use R-134a. I looked it up on Wikipedia following this comment and apparently even some airsoft guns use it. That is honestly pretty silly that it is so tightly controlled for automotive but everything else gets a pass. It makes sense to require AC repair shops to properly recover the refridgerant but I agree for a person fixing it on 1 car, unless you can rent the equipment, it isn't a big deal to vent it.
The bottle is not for recovery,
I know, read the discription....
hmmm. thats a mn plate i see