You just have to leave enough room in the wood channel so it'll fold and hold the saw. Pretty sure the span piece should be 35 inches for a 36 inch blade and it'll all work out the same. You'd need at least 37 or 38 inches of threaded rod.
The edges have been softened with a thumb hand planner then sanded. The wooden handle feels comfortable on the hands when in use. You need the spreader bar to put tension on the blade. The threaded rod stores conveniently inside the wood handle, it doesn't weigh much and is faster and easier to use than string. If you use string, you need a toggle to wind the string up to put tension on the blade. The toggle has to be long enough to lock against the spreader bar in order to keep tension on the blade. That means you have to keep it out of the way when winding up the string for tension then move it down so that it stays in place against the spreader bar. That's tedious and the string and toggle won't store as nicely as the threaded rod does. The only point of failure with the threaded rod is loosing the wing nut at the end. I keep a spare one in the repair kit I take along on canoe trips but have never needed it.
Hadn't noticed, when I sped up that sequence it looks like I accidentally put it in reverse as well. Can't fix it now but I think everybody will get the idea of what's supposed to happen.
Great step by step instructions. Thanks for posting it.
Made one this afternoon, with your guidance. Great!!
Good job. Will have to put my ingenuity together and build a few of these.
That's a very nice saw!
Nice job Rolf!
This should have more comments thanks man!
Thanks! This is a very informative, and useful info.
Thanks 🇨🇦👍
Great job! I know what I am doing tomorrow 😁
Found my next project.
Good job👍
Could you possibly tell me the dimensions that would work with a 36 inch blade
You just have to leave enough room in the wood channel so it'll fold and hold the saw. Pretty sure the span piece should be 35 inches for a 36 inch blade and it'll all work out the same. You'd need at least 37 or 38 inches of threaded rod.
@@RolfKraiker thanks so much the nearest portable saw I could find like yours was a 75.00 dollar metal one so this is a real lifesaver
ROUND OVER THE EDGES FOR YOUR HAND.
Why do you need a spreader bar? Just use the string twist,, saves weight.
The edges have been softened with a thumb hand planner then sanded. The wooden handle feels comfortable on the hands when in use. You need the spreader bar to put tension on the blade. The threaded rod stores conveniently inside the wood handle, it doesn't weigh much and is faster and easier to use than string. If you use string, you need a toggle to wind the string up to put tension on the blade. The toggle has to be long enough to lock against the spreader bar in order to keep tension on the blade. That means you have to keep it out of the way when winding up the string for tension then move it down so that it stays in place against the spreader bar. That's tedious and the string and toggle won't store as nicely as the threaded rod does. The only point of failure with the threaded rod is loosing the wing nut at the end. I keep a spare one in the repair kit I take along on canoe trips but have never needed it.
Must make me a new one, I managed to destroy my old one!
4:44 What's wrong with this picture? LOL!!!
Hadn't noticed, when I sped up that sequence it looks like I accidentally put it in reverse as well. Can't fix it now but I think everybody will get the idea of what's supposed to happen.
Hmm, how to make this in an apartment with minimal tools.