thank you for making lots of helpful films! Just trying to sort my own doors out and its not easy. Very rusted so having to weld in several bits but also I wish i had first watched your vid about aligning the bulkhead and rear tub so the door gaps are good, Mine are rubbish but cant face taking things apart again!
You can bin off the fancy shapes & use flat 1mm sheet for the base, then weld 25mm box to the flat to get a similar profile. Use a chop-saw (metal cutting) to cut the shape you just made to the right length/angles, weld that in after you chop out the grot. Usually the front "drop-leg" will also be rotten - It's also just some flat sheet, some 25mm box with some more flat welded on top. As doors go, these are an easy fix. Every other door on earth is harder by comparison.
Great videos Mike - keep them coming! Any chance of showing how to install all the seals, furniture, winder mechanism, glass, etc. of a Defender door? I've had 2 new front door shells sprayed in body colour and now need to build them up (with electric winders and central locking).
super stuff, my door tops havent fit properly for a good while, I'm going to have to try that brute force job at some point. My main problem right now is soggy driver footwell.
Well, the simple answer is there is not many jobs coming in when it is winter, so it gives me time to do some videos that the Haynes manual seems to skip by! Mike
Thanks for another great video Mike. A quick question for you - my current door are past fixing, but I have replacement doors that need a little but of rust repair at the bottoms. I noticed you said to take the skin of and fold it at the waist (!!!!!) that sounds a bit scary to say the least. I was wondering how to weld the backs of the 45 degree cuts - any more hints? Thanks again and a BIG thumbs up for your work!
By the waist I meant the bit that bends below the window - the rounded part, not the sharp edge on the vertical bit - this means if you lift the skin at that point there is less likely a chance to crease the skin and it gives you a lot of room to work Mike
The issue you mention at 12:35 (the stress cracks near the locking peg), is there any easy fix for the cracks or is this just a case of 'get it welded'? Thank you.
Sadly no the nearest place for galvanizing is 240 km away and if they see paint they do not want to know - I am not sure if the frames were electro static painted so not sure if pain is inside the frame
William - has to be the galvanized every time for me The cheap skins are pure aluminium and a bit too soft for me . This goes for a lot of replacement panels of Land Rovers Mike
I am in Canada and use April products aprilsuperflo.com/produit/produitUnique.aspx?lang=1&produit=108 But in Europe you can use Dinitrol www.dinitroldirect.com/
Your a good honest and trades man on land rovers with good experience. I’m learning a lot on the videos from this channel 👍
Glad to hear it
thank you for making lots of helpful films! Just trying to sort my own doors out and its not easy. Very rusted so having to weld in several bits but also I wish i had first watched your vid about aligning the bulkhead and rear tub so the door gaps are good, Mine are rubbish but cant face taking things apart again!
You can bin off the fancy shapes & use flat 1mm sheet for the base, then weld 25mm box to the flat to get a similar profile. Use a chop-saw (metal cutting) to cut the shape you just made to the right length/angles, weld that in after you chop out the grot. Usually the front "drop-leg" will also be rotten - It's also just some flat sheet, some 25mm box with some more flat welded on top. As doors go, these are an easy fix. Every other door on earth is harder by comparison.
Thanks from Germany. Very interesting videos ... !
Thank you!
Mike
Thank you from France! Sebastien
You're welcome Sebastien!
Mike
Have you the link to part one of this? Thanks
Great videos Mike - keep them coming! Any chance of showing how to install all the seals, furniture, winder mechanism, glass, etc. of a Defender door? I've had 2 new front door shells sprayed in body colour and now need to build them up (with electric winders and central locking).
super stuff, my door tops havent fit properly for a good while, I'm going to have to try that brute force job at some point. My main problem right now is soggy driver footwell.
I am trying to work out a video on doors and seals maybe tomorrow - keep watching!
Mike
thats all I seem to do nowadays, you're quite a prolific poster, not complaining, loving it, keep em coming.
Well, the simple answer is there is not many jobs coming in when it is winter, so it gives me time to do some videos that the Haynes manual seems to skip by!
Mike
Thanks for another great video Mike. A quick question for you - my current door are past fixing, but I have replacement doors that need a little but of rust repair at the bottoms. I noticed you said to take the skin of and fold it at the waist (!!!!!) that sounds a bit scary to say the least.
I was wondering how to weld the backs of the 45 degree cuts - any more hints?
Thanks again and a BIG thumbs up for your work!
By the waist I meant the bit that bends below the window - the rounded part, not the sharp edge on the vertical bit - this means if you lift the skin at that point there is less likely a chance to crease the skin and it gives you a lot of room to work
Mike
The issue you mention at 12:35 (the stress cracks near the locking peg), is there any easy fix for the cracks or is this just a case of 'get it welded'? Thank you.
Just weld it!
Thanks again!
Hi Mike. Did you ever galvanize the door frames after repairing the broken sections? Does that work in sense of rust proofing?
Sadly no the nearest place for galvanizing is 240 km away and if they see paint they do not want to know - I am not sure if the frames were electro static painted so not sure if pain is inside the frame
SP on ebay uk have ali skins at £99 and galvanized at £110 think i will get the galv for my 110.Cheers for vids recently subbed.
William - has to be the galvanized every time for me
The cheap skins are pure aluminium and a bit too soft for me .
This goes for a lot of replacement panels of Land Rovers
Mike
What are your thoughts on painting the rusty areas with rust conversion chemical?
Works on light surface rust but thick flaky rust is very difficult
Question Mike, wat kind of was do u use?
I am in Canada and use April products
aprilsuperflo.com/produit/produitUnique.aspx?lang=1&produit=108
But in Europe you can use Dinitrol
www.dinitroldirect.com/