Thanks for commenting! This is my son's tractor and he has been using it for many years. It ha given him good service. I'm actually a Farmall fan and have several. Does your Cub have a one arm loader? A light weight machine but they are neat little tractors.
My cub is up in Washington State at my brother's house. Will go get it when I retire. It has an undercarriage hydraulic grader blade. No front end loader. Used it on my driveway when I lived in Washington.
@@andrewmartin4258 What!!! Absolutely did not know that. I will take another look at it after I retire and get back to Oregon. Right now just counting the months until I can get out of California.
@@acrussell1959 Let me know if you can't find the information on putting an IH blade on the front and I'll post a picture of mine on the front. That may only be for IH blades and clones but all I've ever seen will transfer.
Really well! I wondered the same thing until I disassembled one. The piston rides inside a sleeve, not inside the exterior shell, so the rod end fluid travels down the annulus to the rod end packing gland where there is a hole for it to enter the cylinder proper.
@@andrewmartin4258 I have a KD forklift based on one of these tractors. My steering is shot. Either need to rebuild cylinder or swap it out completely.
So if I understood you correctly, you cut off the end of the tube just prior to the crimp. So when you reinstalled the gland, The square O-ring would have been exposed regardless. Hence no way of installing it even if you could keep the tube cool while welding it. Therefore you just welded the tube to the gland. Have the same job to do on my 2000. Just rebuilt the steering pump. Noticed the original Leatherman. Still daily use my 20 year old Original. Greg.
Thanks for commenting. Apparently the video wasn't clear. The crimp is in a square groove just like the square seal. I cut between the two, just far enough to get rid of the crimp so the gland would come out. I feel the square seal is unnecessary if a good weld can be had. I also assume the square seal, if it were in place, would outgas during welding and perhaps create a leaking weld and if the seal were damaged too then there would be a leak. Granted on a tractor this age a small seep would be inconsequential but my opinion was that removing the seal would be best. Let me know if you leave the seal in and are successful, please. P.S. I couldn't figure out your Leatherman comment until I rewatched the video. 🤣 I don't know how old this one is but it's always with me (including church, weddings, and funerals) and I never think about grabbing it, it is second nature. The file works good to clean points on a Model A Ford in a pinch, by the way. This is my second and I have a spare. My first got loose and hard to use so I looked at new ones. They are either too big or too small. I had a friend who did a lot of flea markets and he bought me two. My first leather holder went bad too. I think I'm good through 2040...
Sometime ago a friend gave me the left and right steering cylinders from a tractor they parted out. Problem is one has the threaded rod end broken. I can either make threaded extension for the rod end, and make a sleeve with a grub screw to put on the broken threaded end. Or when the snow melts, I could take the cylinder off my machine and perform the same repair you did. Here at the New Jersey Pennsylvania border we have about 2 feet on the ground. I’ll let you know what I do. Funny you mention the Ford model A. Just finished repairing a Service brake cross shaft for a friends Ford model A Victoria. Had to build up the swivel ends with brazing, then machine again to fit on the swivel bushings. I to carry my Leatherman everywhere. I’ve had it for 20 years, just acquired a spare from my brother couple years back. His is in much shape. Mine has more sentimental value so it is stored in my dresser, had too many close calls almost losing it. Stays in my pocket. It fell out of the leather pouch far too often. Constantly crawling underneath machine to fix some thing and the pouch opens, leaving the leatherman on the ground. Besides I always carry a small flashlight on my belt. Too much clutter. Greg
Great video Sir. I'm going to do the same thing for my Ford 3000, but I'm have trouble finding the glad seals for the 5/8 rod most are 1/2 do you have any #'s for new seals.
@@bryansmith1429 Thank you. I think you can find the seals at Yesterday's Tractors www.yesterdaystractors.com It appears the seal kit you want is CAPN3301A but check it out for yourself.
Apparently the seller I bought from is not selling this kit now. I bought CAPN3301A and I see several advertised on ebay. This is for a 5/8" rod. I believe CAPN3301B is for a 1/2" rod.
First off, I didn’t see you wearing approved safety shoes. Second, putting your head at the dynamic end while under pressure sounds like something Shorty would do. Fourth, where’s the Martin hammer? Always nice when we can repair instead of replace.
Funny you should mention that. Especially when you know my normal footwear is steel toed boots. :) 100 psi on a 2,000 psi cylinder... What happened to third? Didn't have an aluminum hammer handy. Hmmm. Thanks for stopping by!
Great save. Hope it holds up. Wish I had a Ford with a front end loader. Would beat my Farmall Cub.
Thanks for commenting!
This is my son's tractor and he has been using it for many years. It ha given him good service.
I'm actually a Farmall fan and have several. Does your Cub have a one arm loader? A light weight machine but they are neat little tractors.
My cub is up in Washington State at my brother's house. Will go get it when I retire. It has an undercarriage hydraulic grader blade. No front end loader. Used it on my driveway when I lived in Washington.
@@acrussell1959 You probably know the mid-blade on the Cub can be reinstalled as a front bulldozer blade. I've done a lot of work with one.
@@andrewmartin4258 What!!! Absolutely did not know that. I will take another look at it after I retire and get back to Oregon. Right now just counting the months until I can get out of California.
@@acrussell1959 Let me know if you can't find the information on putting an IH blade on the front and I'll post a picture of mine on the front. That may only be for IH blades and clones but all I've ever seen will transfer.
How do these cylinders work with the hoses on the same end?
Really well!
I wondered the same thing until I disassembled one.
The piston rides inside a sleeve, not inside the exterior shell, so the rod end fluid travels down the annulus to the rod end packing gland where there is a hole for it to enter the cylinder proper.
@@andrewmartin4258 thanks. That’s what I knew could be the only way. Just never seen it.
@@andrewmartin4258 I have a KD forklift based on one of these tractors. My steering is shot. Either need to rebuild cylinder or swap it out completely.
So if I understood you correctly, you cut off the end of the tube just prior to the crimp. So when you reinstalled the gland, The square O-ring would have been exposed regardless. Hence no way of installing it even if you could keep the tube cool while welding it. Therefore you just welded the tube to the gland. Have the same job to do on my 2000. Just rebuilt the steering pump. Noticed the original Leatherman. Still daily use my 20 year old Original. Greg.
Thanks for commenting.
Apparently the video wasn't clear. The crimp is in a square groove just like the square seal. I cut between the two, just far enough to get rid of the crimp so the gland would come out. I feel the square seal is unnecessary if a good weld can be had. I also assume the square seal, if it were in place, would outgas during welding and perhaps create a leaking weld and if the seal were damaged too then there would be a leak. Granted on a tractor this age a small seep would be inconsequential but my opinion was that removing the seal would be best.
Let me know if you leave the seal in and are successful, please.
P.S. I couldn't figure out your Leatherman comment until I rewatched the video. 🤣 I don't know how old this one is but it's always with me (including church, weddings, and funerals) and I never think about grabbing it, it is second nature. The file works good to clean points on a Model A Ford in a pinch, by the way. This is my second and I have a spare. My first got loose and hard to use so I looked at new ones. They are either too big or too small. I had a friend who did a lot of flea markets and he bought me two. My first leather holder went bad too. I think I'm good through 2040...
Sometime ago a friend gave me the left and right steering cylinders from a tractor they parted out. Problem is one has the threaded rod end broken. I can either make threaded extension for the rod end, and make a sleeve with a grub screw to put on the broken threaded end. Or when the snow melts, I could take the cylinder off my machine and perform the same repair you did. Here at the New Jersey Pennsylvania border we have about 2 feet on the ground. I’ll let you know what I do. Funny you mention the Ford model A. Just finished repairing a Service brake cross shaft for a friends Ford model A Victoria. Had to build up the swivel ends with brazing, then machine again to fit on the swivel bushings. I to carry my Leatherman everywhere. I’ve had it for 20 years, just acquired a spare from my brother couple years back. His is in much shape. Mine has more sentimental value so it is stored in my dresser, had too many close calls almost losing it. Stays in my pocket. It fell out of the leather pouch far too often. Constantly crawling underneath machine to fix some thing and the pouch opens, leaving the leatherman on the ground. Besides I always carry a small flashlight on my belt. Too much clutter. Greg
@@gdglock This really was an easy repair.
Great video Sir. I'm going to do the same thing for my Ford 3000, but I'm have trouble finding the glad seals for the 5/8 rod most are 1/2 do you have any #'s for new seals.
@@bryansmith1429 Thank you.
I think you can find the seals at Yesterday's Tractors www.yesterdaystractors.com
It appears the seal kit you want is CAPN3301A but check it out for yourself.
Where did you get your seal kit from?
Apparently the seller I bought from is not selling this kit now. I bought CAPN3301A and I see several advertised on ebay. This is for a 5/8" rod. I believe CAPN3301B is for a 1/2" rod.
First off, I didn’t see you wearing approved safety shoes. Second, putting your head at the dynamic end while under pressure sounds like something Shorty would do. Fourth, where’s the Martin hammer?
Always nice when we can repair instead of replace.
Funny you should mention that. Especially when you know my normal footwear is steel toed boots. :)
100 psi on a 2,000 psi cylinder...
What happened to third?
Didn't have an aluminum hammer handy. Hmmm.
Thanks for stopping by!