Literally just got my 2006 ford escape this procedure yesterday 🥺 Im so ready to drive,😅 It’s Nice out! My mechanic finish at 4:13.. Saturday...so i’ll start my vehicle up & drive around a few, about 6 pm today!🥳
I always use the one for Automatic Transmission Pans it’s the one that comes in the purplish/red tube and I use the black on oil pans because I’ve had different fluids eat right thru the RTV before if the right one wasn’t used.
Had this happen on me with the Red RTV, one month later, I had a huge puddle of oil leaking. I do blame myself for that because I still used a hard with the RTV. This time I'm only using the black gasket maker
but permatex instructions says to just tight 1/4 to 1/2 after one hour, and then it says that the silicon will hardened at 24 hours, so I guess, you must totally tight them after 24 hours finally.
Gasket sealer or RTV can make its way into the transmission fluid, it happened to me once out of 20 changes, transmission would not shift or operate because of one little spec of sealer. I am experimenting with using Gasgacinch gasket sealer, to see how that works. Otherwise not using any automatic trans fluid leaking everywhere. My 22-year-old mechanic who works on fighter jets left it leaking. I am old very hard for me now to change the fluid.
I used the gray thinner gasked tube and it was a nightmare. It falls apart in small bits. I am sticking with the thicker black using it with the gasked on both sides.
If you feel like it will seal, I would just fill it up and then check for leaks after a couple days. Part of the reason for letting it cure is so that it doesn't squish the silicone into the pan potentially intermixing with your transmission fluid creating contamination that you don't want in your transmission
My transmission pan is a dorman and it's not a perfectly flat mating surface. It has little depressions in between the bolt holes. My worry is that RTV won't spread out in a pan like this evenly. Should I be using a rubber gasket?
@@JCTFIXIT I used an overmolded rubber gasket, and so far no leaks. But now after changing my shift solenoid pack, I'm still getting the P0750 code and stuck in 3rd, which is why I pulled the valve body in the first place. FML.
man for a second i felt like i was watching bob ross paint....but I thought the "right stuff" was the better silicone. Its ready to roll in 1 hour. More advanced and by the same company
I used this stuff for the 2md time and my shits still leaks. Idk what I'm doing wrong. Went around all the holes and put it on til it squeezed out then waited an hour then tightened them up and waited about15 hours to fill oil.
Not sure, but a few suggestions... 1. Always go get new product. Don't use an old tube that has been laying around. 2. Wait for it it to fully cure. 3. Clean all your surfaces extremely well and get all oil and residue off before applying. 4. Don't apply too much or it will have a hard time curing. Good luck.
You may be overtightening the bolts, and pushing the rtv out, which, in its turn, makes too thin of a layer during the process of tightening. Try first, hand, (two-finger), tight, then wait for 1 hour, and torque it to specs, then, wait for 24 hours, instead of 15.
Nice and clean both surfaces with razor nice bead around bolt holes mate together and nip up then tighten stop using gaskets on alloy sump s bit of a pain 😢
JCT FIX IT did you ever you the high temp stuff red? I just did mine, well I had to redo it cause there was a small leak cause my bead wasn’t great. But second time looks great so far.
If shops do this all the time and just put the pan right up, pour oil, and car drives off, wouldn't the sealant not be cured and contaminate the oil or transmission oil? Shops probably dont have all gaskets for all cars on hand.
I am thinking of using the Ultra Grey because 22re Performance recommended it. They specifically said not to use the cork Fel Pro gaskets. And they know their stuff about Toyotas which is what I have.
@@JCTFIXIT Either a Jurassic Park reference or he thinks you're cheap for using this as opposed to buying a gasket. Maybe he doesn't know not everything has a gasket to buy for it. I'm gonna have to use this on my 2004 Saturn Vue V6 oil pan, they don't make a gasket for it and it just started leaking all around the edges after I cleaned the sludge out of the engine ( apparently that's all that was keeping the oil in lol ) , only had it for a little over 1k miles, trying to make it nice and last a long time. Was on the fence about this or the red due to heat but I think I'll go with this for maximum oil resistance. Appreciate the video!
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Literally just got my 2006 ford escape this procedure yesterday 🥺 Im so ready to drive,😅 It’s Nice out! My mechanic finish at 4:13.. Saturday...so i’ll start my vehicle up & drive around a few, about 6 pm today!🥳
I always use the one for Automatic Transmission Pans it’s the one that comes in the purplish/red tube and I use the black on oil pans because I’ve had different fluids eat right thru the RTV before if the right one wasn’t used.
I still prefer the permatex black rtv because it has maximum oil resistance and really good temperatures ratings as well.
Had this happen on me with the Red RTV, one month later, I had a huge puddle of oil leaking. I do blame myself for that because I still used a hard with the RTV. This time I'm only using the black gasket maker
Hasn't let me down yet
@@JCTFIXIT Hopefully I can relate, Im currently waiting for the 24 hours now
Yeah don't rush it but if temperatures are warm you could probably get by after 6 to 8 hours
The key is hand tighten the screw until see the bead squish out just a teeny, after 1 hour then torque the screw.
Thank you my good man
but permatex instructions says to just tight 1/4 to 1/2 after one hour, and then it says that the silicon will hardened at 24 hours, so I guess, you must totally tight them after 24 hours finally.
Get the RTV in the tube for a silicone gun, it makes doing these so much easier .
Gasket sealer or RTV can make its way into the transmission fluid, it happened to me once out of 20 changes, transmission would not shift or operate because of one little spec of sealer. I am experimenting with using Gasgacinch gasket sealer, to see how that works. Otherwise not using any automatic trans fluid leaking everywhere. My 22-year-old mechanic who works on fighter jets left it leaking. I am old very hard for me now to change the fluid.
how did you hold the pan up to get the bolts started without smearing the RTV?
Great question I do not remember but probably just had one or two bolts handy yet and lined them up in the corners
I used the gray thinner gasked tube and it was a nightmare. It falls apart in small bits. I am sticking with the thicker black using it with the gasked on both sides.
I think you have done this correct, I see a lot of vids that immediately torque down. That will cause separation anxiety in thee future.
The directions say to bolt it up immediately but don't torque the bolts until an hour has passed.
Well that makes sense. This whole time I would install the pan right away and it would be messy instead of waiting 30min before install
Do you think I will need to redo the installation? I just threw the pan on last night
If you feel like it will seal, I would just fill it up and then check for leaks after a couple days. Part of the reason for letting it cure is so that it doesn't squish the silicone into the pan potentially intermixing with your transmission fluid creating contamination that you don't want in your transmission
@@JCTFIXIT thank you!
Permatex says to install it immediately, so you don't do something wrong
My transmission pan is a dorman and it's not a perfectly flat mating surface. It has little depressions in between the bolt holes. My worry is that RTV won't spread out in a pan like this evenly. Should I be using a rubber gasket?
If you can get a gasket use a gasket. If not, running this stuff and do it thick
@@JCTFIXIT I used an overmolded rubber gasket, and so far no leaks. But now after changing my shift solenoid pack, I'm still getting the P0750 code and stuck in 3rd, which is why I pulled the valve body in the first place. FML.
There is a risk of that silicone get loose and clog the oil filter or some solenoid?
Not if you allow it to cure.
3:55 OH YEAH get it GOOOOD xD
Haha. I do a little voice work on side.....
Go around all the holes, and be more generous with the gasket LOL
Could have been a little more generous I suppose. Here we are over a year later and no leaks though!
@teralogic 🤦he has one hand to work with and the other to hold the camera
man for a second i felt like i was watching bob ross paint....but I thought the "right stuff" was the better silicone. Its ready to roll in 1 hour. More advanced and by the same company
Nice. There's tons of types that would get the job done.
So if I have actual gasket I don’t need to use this ?
In theory...... yes...
Correct, it will last longer.
I used this stuff for the 2md time and my shits still leaks. Idk what I'm doing wrong. Went around all the holes and put it on til it squeezed out then waited an hour then tightened them up and waited about15 hours to fill oil.
Says on most to wait 24 hours for proper cure
Not sure, but a few suggestions... 1. Always go get new product. Don't use an old tube that has been laying around. 2. Wait for it it to fully cure. 3. Clean all your surfaces extremely well and get all oil and residue off before applying. 4. Don't apply too much or it will have a hard time curing. Good luck.
You may be overtightening the bolts, and pushing the rtv out, which, in its turn, makes too thin of a layer during the process of tightening.
Try first, hand, (two-finger), tight, then wait for 1 hour, and torque it to specs, then, wait for 24 hours, instead of 15.
That funny
The skies breathing really hard for putting on a gasket LOL.
It was getting serious..... but in all seriousness I need to get some better audio don't I?
Will this replace having to buy a gasket?
Yes.
Nice and clean both surfaces with razor nice bead around bolt holes mate together and nip up then tighten stop using gaskets on alloy sump s bit of a pain 😢
Your message is nonsensical
Hi, would be 70g silicone enough for oil pan ? Thanks
Not sure. Depends on pan size.
Did you forget to put your magnet back in the pan?
No, but I did forget to include that in the video. Thanks for noticing!
JCT FIX IT did you ever you the high temp stuff red?
I just did mine, well I had to redo it cause there was a small leak cause my bead wasn’t great. But second time looks great so far.
I prefer the ultra black as it has maximum oil resistance. It is rated up to 500F. Your transmission pan shouldn't see over about 225f-230f
Btw. Make sure you subscribe. :)
@@JCTFIXIT yeah, but is a biatch to remove the pan and clean the surfaces. I have damaged oil pans when attempting to remove them.
It’s hard to believe that the RTV squeezed out the side door to the location and amount you applied.unless you added and didn’t show on the video.
It's a fine balance. You get too much and it will squeeze into your transmission which you definitely don't want.
If shops do this all the time and just put the pan right up, pour oil, and car drives off, wouldn't the sealant not be cured and contaminate the oil or transmission oil? Shops probably dont have all gaskets for all cars on hand.
Technically yes. Shops probably use gaskets when they can and there are some other products that set up quicker as well
I used ultra grey high torque to seal my oil pan. Still waiting for it to cure, you think it’ll be good?
I'm sure that would be fine.
I am thinking of using the Ultra Grey because 22re Performance recommended it. They specifically said not to use the cork Fel Pro gaskets. And they know their stuff about Toyotas which is what I have.
Just here wondering if a 50mL tube is enough for one oil pan
Hard to say..... probably sufficient though....
You’re supposed to circle the bolt holes
It's a good idea.
Mine is holding good here years later
Don't get cheap on me !
Not sure what you mean by this....
@@JCTFIXIT Either a Jurassic Park reference or he thinks you're cheap for using this as opposed to buying a gasket. Maybe he doesn't know not everything has a gasket to buy for it. I'm gonna have to use this on my 2004 Saturn Vue V6 oil pan, they don't make a gasket for it and it just started leaking all around the edges after I cleaned the sludge out of the engine ( apparently that's all that was keeping the oil in lol ) , only had it for a little over 1k miles, trying to make it nice and last a long time. Was on the fence about this or the red due to heat but I think I'll go with this for maximum oil resistance. Appreciate the video!
Vegas Vacation
bruh clean you work surface up.
Noted......
Well shit, I wish mines was like his, I'm way worse but imma clean up
Haha it's good to have a clean space and know where everything is. Which I usually do.
No gasket
Yes. That's is correct. I award you 10 points.
permatex makes a transmission gasket maker now tranny fluid wont eat thru
Awesome. I added it to my links in the descriptions.