Is there a good way to tell what type of aluminum you are welding if you have no knowledge of what it is. I do a lot of tractor trailer aluminum repair and other aluminum odds and ends and I’ve been kinda in the dark as to what the material series is
a lot of tractor trailer stuff is 5454 base material.... some is 5052 some is 6061 watch these other videos - also bottom line - contact the manufacture .... they typically will proudly tell you what material their stuff is made from (in comparison to the competition) and why that is better ... and then you know
Thank you. After reading some of the other comments on here I saw you talk about the tanker repair so I already went back through and saved them to my watch list. Appreciate all the information!
thanks for the tips Pete, testing out our htp 200 tonight in Canada here! Appreciate the time on the phone a couple months back going over the htp machines. Ended up picking up a used pro pulse 200 for a great deal in Illinois a couple months ago!
Don’t know how I missed this video but I love my HTP Pro Pulse 200 and even more now that I can practice my hot start and crater fill. 👍🏻 video was perfect!
So I've seen you on Chuckee's videos before, but just found your channel, [Subbed]. I have a Miller Syncrowave 210 (stick, Tig, & spool gun) & recently rebuilt a transom on a similar yet slightly smaller boat (16'x50" wide) that had been painted camouflage. Removing the paint residue for a clean weld was a challenge, & material was around 0.060". I attempted the spool gun (according to your #'s, may not have had enough gas, set at 20cfh), and had to go back & fix with tig. My welder doesn't have all of the options that you went through on the HTP, which I can see as a tremendous benefit. Even doing short 2" back-step welds, warpage was a serious issue. Thanks for the great video!
>>So I've seen you on Chuckee's videos before, but just found your channel, [Subbed].>I have a Miller Syncrowave 210 (stick, Tig, & spool gun) & recently rebuilt a transom on a similar yet slightly smaller boat (16'x50" wide) that had been painted camouflage. Removing the paint residue for a clean weld was a challenge,I attempted the spool gun (according to your #'s, may not have had enough gas, set at 20cfh), Even doing short 2" back-step welds, warpage was a serious issue.> Thanks for the great video!
pete this propulse is great!!!really love the machine!!its a seriously great unit for running alum. wire like this and no need for spool gun...thank you for showing us welding geeks this stuff thanks!
Doug Doty i am glad you found a video you like .... Its really hard to make videos - typically some always complains: too much music - too much annoying pulse sound, not enough explanation, too much talk .... so i have given up trying to please people ..... I am glad you like it Thank you for watching
For a walk-in, specialized set-up, ie. Your set-up time is restricted to this one job, (customer wants certifide welder), not able to mark up materials since I believe you said he already had the plates made to fit...24 linear feet turn key would be (IMHO) around $1600.00. I'm guessing this upgrade to the boat will come out around twenty-two to twenty-five hundred easily.
that is a pretty high guess ... and i believe that i can not charge extra for "being setup" i believe that the fact that i am set up is the reason why i got the job .... but thank you for your input !
Hey Pete, nice video, im from ontario canada, run a small custom fab shop, was thinking this would be handy on the road and shop, looks like a fairly advanced unit for aluminum which could be above competitors, does aluminum tig still have its own place compared to thismaxhine or will this work on thin aluminum well? Josh
i would say yes - but a very small piece .... i have about 30 machines (mig, tig stick plasmas and engine drives .. ) i used to have 3 acdc tig machines before i got my Pro pulse 200 ... about 3 month laster i sold the first one - and 6 month later i sold another one .. the last one i kept ... it is good for some super clean build up welds on parts that were machined wrong (with no spatter over the rest of the part) it si also good to make some cosmetic welds on little motorcycle oil tanks - it also mades 100% leak tight welds at first try ..... (not saying this machine here can not - but it takes some getting to know it to dial it in perfect ..... for the day in day out business though - where back in the days 50% of my aluminum welding was spool gun and 50% was ac tig .... now its 95% pro pulse 0% spool gun and 5% tig .... but when it comes to those 5% you don't want to miss it .... on the other hand - if you currently don't own a acdc tig - don't bother buying one once you own a machine like this for repairs it is excellent ! did you see the bulk tanker repairs ? the baffles and the catwalks ? i mean it is 41 lbs - with a 25 ft gas hose and 220 volt extension cord this thing will run off your miller or lincoln engine drive - like a champ ! you will be fixing truck aluminum fenders, bumpers trailer floor, etc etc ..... for aluminum in my opinion it is the absolute #1 when it comes to aluminum and portability it is still #1 even without the portability aspect - just from a price point ... you can not tough ANYTHING in the north american market not even for twice the money ... Miller 5g lincoln 45oo (yes - of course those machines have 300+ amps) but they don't run off your generator and weigh 5 times as much and cost more than twice as much ... esab, nothing, thermal arc, nothing (yes the SP320 if you have 7 grand laying around ....) everlast - nothing their pulse machine is full manual pulse - takes you weeks to figure out how that works ... and has no hot start, no crater fill ... nothing .... so i say - if you have a need for it - go for it ! programs for gas less and dual shield flux cored ... steel pulse spray arc (looks like store-bought welds) excellent for Stainless and super versatile with sibro ... even for cast iron ..... i mean i have it - and i like it ! and you would have to pry it out of my cold hand if you would want mine ....
I wont take it from ya, haha yeah i have ac dc on my lincoln ranger 250 to run tig and a scratch start tig on my miller 250 shop stick welder, i seen the bulk tank truck repair with that machine, love these videos! I know this would give me a bit of an edge around here as far as advanced aluminum repair and fab goes
tubeonline629 HTP says no ..... give me a few month ..... i am cooking something up .... we’ll see how that works out .... the problem with spool gun is most of them cant handle the heat of pulse mig aluminum .... the thing i am working on includes a modified spool gun .... But i mean this machines works really nice with that mig gun they sell for aluminum use ....
the customer (when he bought the material at his metal distributor) his invoice said 3003 H14 the boat - that is a little bit more tricky ... a lot of manufactures will post on their website or tell you when you call them what grade aluminum they used. only "high end" manufactures (more so than even big names - that is not the same) will use actual marine grade aluminum 5086 most common ...... Pretty much the majority of "economy" boat manufactures and most "inland" or "sweet water boats" are made from 5052 H32 aluminum (that being the most popular by far)
I don't know if you had to do much fit up, but I would think about 250. For that job if plates were already cut and in place. I guess it would depend on if he is going to let you borrow it next summer.
The one reason I'm asking is this unit is a 220 volt and cannot be too far from the power source ,with a spool gun I can extend the working distance from power source , example I have a Aluminum trailer that is about 40' away +- with a 20' heavy cord for 220 volt and a 20/25' spoolgun hook up I can do what I need to do
jas van i would not worry about that so much - when i did those aluminum tanker trailers i ran the machine on a 100’ cord !!!! 10awg The max draw is only 35 amp ... effective input current is 19 amp or so .... A 100’ cord will be just fine ...
i am not sure that ductility is higher on 5356 ... i made a few videos on aluminum 4043 vs 5356 - pointing out all the differences ... and some aluminimnweldinh 101 video .... in one or maybe both of those videos is a link to a lincoln electric 72 page brochure ... that is HIGHLY informative ! since no real marine grade aluminum was used 4043 was adequate here .... a"real" marine application needs a 5000 series filler wire
bill block FYI 5356 is AL MG5 It is 5% magnesium not 10 And under a few mil of paint it does not discolor either And YES in a “real” marine application with 5086 base a 5000 series filler is an absolute must ! And if you dont know 100% what material you are dealing with 5356 is the “better” and “safer” choice.
thank you for watching - you the pulse is a TOTAL game changer on mig ... ( i mean on tig there is a pretty noticeable difference between pulse and no pulse ) but mig welding (not just aluminum ) the difference is GROUNDBREAKING ! spool guns are good - they get you by. all long as you are welding no thinner than .100" - you will be good !
Thanks. Question: the amp reading on the screen is peak amps or does the machine automatically select the peak and base currents based on the amp setting originally set? Also in single pulse is the frequency set automatically as I didnt see you set it
Have yet to use the PP220 with aluminum. I like 4943 tig rod so I was considering trying Hobart .035" 4943 wire. Would the 4043 settings work or be a good starting point for 4943 wire? I'm interested in what your thoughts are or if you ever tried the 4943.
I have only used the tig rods and some 4943 in a spool gun without pulse. I have talked to a bunch of customers who run that wire on pp200/220 It needs a little more voltage than 4043 maybe +1.0 otherwise the 4043 program is reasonably close …. Some guys like to use the 5356 program with a little bit more arc length correction…. I can see how the 5356 paw has a better arc on material thicknesses of .080” and less material thickness.
That is not a one answer question..... are you using ALMG5 wire or ALSI5 wire ? 1.0mm or 1.2mm? the short answer is (single pass weld) no preheat room temperature material 1.0 mm wire ALSI5 roughly 6mm 1.0mm wire ALMG5 roughly 5mm 1.2mm wire ALSI5 roughly 8-10mm 1.2mm wire ALMG5 roughly 6-8mm the 1.0mm programs have pulse these thinnesses are for single pulse, the some material thickness off for double pulse the 1.2mm wire programs are SPARY non pulse ...
Thanks for your answer, for most of the jobs i’ll be using ALMG5 1,2mm, i have a ESS E4 2800 machine with pulse and all the AL programs, am hoping it is enough for 10mm thick aluminum, most jobs are repairing truck tipper trailers
I dont know what to quote this one at?24 linear feet??hmmmm maybe 500$ plus the spool of wire? or more??I wonder if your quoting by the inch or foot?also ive been wondering when your going to be on the welding tips and tricks podcast Peter??...gotta be soon hey... thanks for sharing and putting real-world content out there..
for tig that price might be good - wire you cant get that much ..... or maybe if you are in a "high end" neighborhood than you might get away with that
@@DustinApple in Wisonsin 53108 this job is worth less than in Illinois 60083 which is less than 30 min away from here but the job is at least 25%-50% worth more there ... taxes on houses are 3x as high - the over all income of residents is 25-50% higher cost of living and boating lifestyle is completely different ....
40 ish CFH…. Because with pulse you need a little more than regular spray ( more amps in the peak pulse current which determines the gas flow needs) Besides gas is your friend! In some situations i run 50 to help “keep things clear”
on this particular machine the minimum wire feed rate is 4 imp in manual mode i believe and 55 imp or more in the various synergic programs - depending on the program .... most modern machines have Purge buttons some also have Jog buttons .... me - call me old school or ignorant ... there are a few inventions that i don't really use ... (personally) that does not mean that those functions are bad or anything .... I own about 30 welding machines ... some have jog and purge buttons - some don't. and the ones that do - they are ALWAYS in a different location - some are inside the machine (you have to open the wire compartment) some are on the front panel .... so i have defaulted to use the torch trigger - which is btw pretty AWESOME it is in the same location on every machine (right on the torch) and it is a "magic" dual function button - it can purge AND jog .... so it makes my live really easy .. and in my mind simplicity is key ! also when you feed really small diameter wire through the torch or really soft wire - you want the torch to be as straight as possible - so why would you wan to use a job button inside the wire compartment when the torch trigger is literally on your finger tips ! also this particular machine here has a function that shuts the gas and the welding current off after 3 or 4 sec feeding wire but not making an arc. so on this machine there is not even any danger that the wire shortens out or anything .... So it's just me ... no "real" reason
oh absolutely you can purge without the wire being install ... and also the machine "purges itself" as you feed the wire through the gun (if you use the trigger).... I guess the point here was that you can use the purge function to check your gas flow rate (without feeding wire) not really to purge the machine and the gun ..... either way - i think this is being overthought ....
jas van i already put a push pull gun on this machine ....! Of course i voided all my warranty, cut and soldered wires ..... And NOW htp is all the sudden very interested in this mod .....
Can you use HTP's aluminum welding rolls and guns with steel? They seem to sell the propulse with guns and rolls for steel and others for aluminum. It would be great if you could get one gun for both steel and aluminum, the rollers don't really matter if they have to be changed out. I'm guessing but have no clue. I'd say $250 to $500 labor cost, but I have no clue how long it took to do that job so strictly a guess.
the Sharp v rolls are for steel, stainless and sibro only - the aluminum rolls are for aluminum only - that way you also prevent cross contamination.... as far as the gun the aluminum gun is a little bigger (but they sell that size for steel too) they are a little shorter about 8.5 ft .. like 2.50m they have a special liner and special tips ....once you run anything but aluminum through that liner - it is junk pretty fast or cross contaminated .... now there are guys where they use the same gun - but switch the timer and the tips out every time ... to me that makes absolutely no sense .... between $250 and $500 is a good guess depending on where you are located
Depends on how long it took you to do the job. I would be happy at 300. Now I charge by the hour. If the customer supplied the materials and pre fit everything 300 is right. If I had to fit and supply 6-700 sounds good
i started using a new camera a week ago... and i am still trying to find out the details ... and i don't have my new filter plates for arc shot yet .... normally heather works with me - the boat i did all by myself - its really hard to weld and film at the same time .....
Job- you said it was already fit by the customer. I'd planned for 4hrs labor+100 for consumables and overhead. Clean, weld, water test, and fix any leaks. $500 job
clean, yes - where necessary, customer did a good job, 3 hrs labor $25 for consumables because I used too much argon gas ...LOL. weld - send it ! no leak testing you can see the arc much like tig and you can see where to fully fuses the metal and you have no short circuit crackle .... so you know you are breaking through the oxide layer .... $300 out the door
@@DustinApple LOL. it was November ... customer water tested it in march all on his own ... no complains ....LOL. he came back to build it out and put a full deck on the front ruclips.net/video/DekduNFexBM/видео.html that is one not to miss ! and then Cleetus McFarland saw that ... and next thing you know .... ruclips.net/video/l6GeNNZmWuw/видео.html
Thank you for watching ! Every time someone watches an ad and does not skip it i make about 0.2 cents or 0.002 dollar ..... Now as far as the machine goes - you buy one - great - you don't buy one great ... it does not effect me (financially) in any way shape or form ... i don't get commission, i am not on HTP's payroll .... whatever you want to do HOWEVER if you buy one - this video already teaches you how to set it up for aluminum welding ! so that "lesson" you learned for totally free ! LOL
no worries - i didn't take it the wrong way. i have seen from your past comments that you are REALLY looking forward to get your hands on one of those anyways .... They were out of stock and than i know they received a small shipment - i don't know if they any of those left .... but those machines - cant keep stock on them ... they are just so popular i just specifies my answer for everyone who read your comment for the first time - there are a ton of guys who are showing stuff (all sort of brands) just to show it ... they got it in the mail this morning and tonight its the "latest and greatest " on youtube .... LOL i actually buy my own stuff and make money with it - those videos are entertainment and hobby for me - not a paid source of income .... and a lot of guys who just found my channel just don't know that
Pete I would have done the job for around 750$, including the fit up but would have tiged it. That's 288 inches at alittle under 3$ a ft. What did you charge?
he guy provided the material, wire brushed the paint off cut it to size and fitted 95% of it... it was basically "just welding" i had about 3+ hrs into it ... and some argon, electricity and wire .... going rate in my area is about $80-$125/hr .....
ZILA- ok knowing that I change my cost, I was unaware of the time invested other than welding I figured more. In Texas we charge around the same per hour fitting or welding. I mostly do shop work. Check out my instagram Pete, millerismyname ive started to post some pics. I'd really like to get you opinion on my welds.
I like the machine and your welds are good. nice profile, no rolling on the toe and hot. But I cannot understand why you weld free handed. This is something I was told never to do when I learned the trade and for a good reason. I can see on your long stretch where you went a bit sideways, That is caused by free hand welding. You must be exceptionally good to weld like that, I cant.
Well, when i first learned mig welding ( in germany almost 30 years ago ) automatic helmets were not really a thing. Hand held shields were the “standard”. So the first 5 years of my life i welded ( by necessity ) single handed. At some point i moved to the states and welded with a regular hood and i applied for a job here and the guy said : i will hire you but you need to weld with 2 hands!!!! And i said, when you hold the pen you sign my paycheck with with BOTH hands as you are signing it - that will be the day i weld with both hands 😂 Fast forward : i did a lot of work in scrapyards, on ladders , holding myself up with one hand, welding with the other …. And i used to be really good at it much better than in this video or now …. Now i have “experience” and i dont give a f …. When i weld under a trailer, on a ladder, in some tight space often enough i have to weld single handed and often enough the situation chooses ( not me) which hand i have to weld with …. I can weld almost as good with the left hand as i can with the right … it does not matter …. I am not sure that there is anything exceptional about me …. Its just years of muscle memory and what you are used to …
@@ZILAwelds I pretty much did like you. Came from France in the US in 75. learned the trade went to work for Douglas as a Tig welder, then open my business portable welding in CA specializing in seismic retrofit.10% of the weld are UT. No way I could weld the full pen with innershield at 300 amps single hand. NO WAY. I like the HTP. In one of the videos the guy is maxed out and the amps shows 160. I dont get it. is n it supposed to peak at 220 for ten seconds like they claim in the brochure? Take care. (where are you located?)
@@bernardmauge8613 milwaukee wi The amperage varies greatly with ctwd ( aka stick out) if you are too close you get well over 200 amps, if you hold it just right you will be at 180-190 ish amps and if you hold it way too far then you see 150-160 ish …..
I enjoyed watching your videos, I would say a job like this has to be at $800. I am a true believer a man should be paid fair. When the customer helps I charge twice as much.
There is no way in hell I would ever use a regular push fed mig gun with aluminum wire going through it. If it’s not huge diameter it will kink and break and then your changing your liner out. Hell we use to have hell with millers push pull gun. Spool guns work best but I’m willing to give push pulls another go at before I close the door on them.
LOL ..... I have run well over 200rolls of aluminum wire through that machine like this ... and I can count the amount of birds nests on less than 2 hands !!!! and thousands of HTP customers fell the same way.
customer did good prep - and the machine makes it look easy ... the stuff even goes in like butter on overhead ... i mean - not saying that some experience is not a good helper - but there are machines that no matter how much experience you have - and no matter how much you do - you are still "fighting" it every day - and than there are machines - they just work great ! so my machine shop guy had an old linda 600 amp wire welder - and he absolutely loved it ! so he bought a PP200 for some aluminum stuff (never the less because he saw one at my shop - but lets not digress) so he called me up his machinist and part time welder was not in that day and he had to get a 6" Channel from a welded up and delivered the same day - he said: you need to come over and weld that - now when heals i typically jump ! (that works both ways thought - he saved my a$$ more than once ... ) and i started welding that frame - and in typical machine shop fashion - everything was clean, milled, squared .. .. no mill scale no surface rust .... just " a welders dream" - THAT is how they do it there - quality and nothing else. So i started welding with his machine - and it didn't look right, it didn't feel right and i think the liner on his gun was going out ... so i walked out to the van, grabbed a roll of 030 wire and started to set up the PP200 for Steel, pulsed mig ..... he started yelling at me - what are you doing there!?! said - making sure you are getting nice welds ! he said - this is thick stuff - you better use that 045 wire ! i said - nada 030 will be fine .... than he started to shake his head and walked away in his office ... typically when he does machining - i leave him alone - when i do welding - he leaves me alone ... we both have that done more than once before and typically do not need 3rd party advice on how to do things .... he comes back about 15 min later - looks at the welds - spatter free !!! beautiful as all can be ! another 30 min later everything was welded up - i left he shipped the frame to the customer. a week goes by ... he calls me and says - can i get 2 more rolls of that wire ??? and a roll of stainless, and a roll of aluminum - and what gasses do i all need .... another 2 weeks go buy - the 600 amp machine GONE !!!! he said it took up too much space ... LOL
i run 030 for spray pulse (there is no program for 25 for that) and i run 030 for short circuit mig of i am too lazy to switch to 35 and i uses 030 for auto body thickness and really thin stuff ... so basically i uses 030 pretty much all the time .... 030 and 035 both run up to 200 amp both run up to 1/4" material thickness. both run fine ...
I had them throw in 35 and 35 tips with mine. I have 30 on hand. Not sure my Lincoln 30 tips are compatible though. Tracking says I'll have a PP200 in my shop tomorrow.
Material n Labor = $310.00 Plate (my guess) = $75.00 @ $80.00 hour x 3 hours Am I close? Question: I want to build me an 16" Aluminum boat, do yo think I would be fine using my Lincoln 210mp?
3 hrs at $100 per hour customer supplied the material (which by my best guess was at least $150 maybe 200. as far as the 210mp being a good welder - maybe. let me write a separate reply for that
Is there a good way to tell what type of aluminum you are welding if you have no knowledge of what it is. I do a lot of tractor trailer aluminum repair and other aluminum odds and ends and I’ve been kinda in the dark as to what the material series is
ruclips.net/video/iFj2M3K4DYA/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/hqdpzioF6to/видео.html
a lot of tractor trailer stuff is 5454 base material.... some is 5052 some is 6061
watch these other videos - also bottom line - contact the manufacture .... they typically will proudly tell you what material their stuff is made from (in comparison to the competition) and why that is better ... and then you know
Thank you. After reading some of the other comments on here I saw you talk about the tanker repair so I already went back through and saved them to my watch list. Appreciate all the information!
@@gearhead181 you are welcome
thanks for the tips Pete, testing out our htp 200 tonight in Canada here! Appreciate the time on the phone a couple months back going over the htp machines. Ended up picking up a used pro pulse 200 for a great deal in Illinois a couple months ago!
Have fun!
Don’t know how I missed this video but I love my HTP Pro Pulse 200 and even more now that I can practice my hot start and crater fill. 👍🏻 video was perfect!
$275.00 for the job. Your knowledge is priceless. Thanks for the videos.
Ghil Reese thank you for watching!
great to see an actual real life job .......not just a test bench video
So I've seen you on Chuckee's videos before, but just found your channel, [Subbed]. I have a Miller Syncrowave 210 (stick, Tig, & spool gun) & recently rebuilt a transom on a similar yet slightly smaller boat (16'x50" wide) that had been painted camouflage. Removing the paint residue for a clean weld was a challenge, & material was around 0.060". I attempted the spool gun (according to your #'s, may not have had enough gas, set at 20cfh), and had to go back & fix with tig. My welder doesn't have all of the options that you went through on the HTP, which I can see as a tremendous benefit. Even doing short 2" back-step welds, warpage was a serious issue. Thanks for the great video!
>>So I've seen you on Chuckee's videos before, but just found your channel, [Subbed].>I have a Miller Syncrowave 210 (stick, Tig, & spool gun) & recently rebuilt a transom on a similar yet slightly smaller boat (16'x50" wide) that had been painted camouflage. Removing the paint residue for a clean weld was a challenge,I attempted the spool gun (according to your #'s, may not have had enough gas, set at 20cfh), Even doing short 2" back-step welds, warpage was a serious issue.> Thanks for the great video!
pete this propulse is great!!!really love the machine!!its a seriously great unit for running alum. wire like this and no need for spool gun...thank you for showing us welding geeks this stuff thanks!
thanks for watching !
Wow welding instead of talking, love your videos...
Doug Doty i am glad you found a video you like ....
Its really hard to make videos - typically some always complains: too much music - too much annoying pulse sound, not enough explanation, too much talk ....
so i have given up trying to please people .....
I am glad you like it
Thank you for watching
For a walk-in, specialized set-up, ie. Your set-up time is restricted to this one job, (customer wants certifide welder), not able to mark up materials since I believe you said he already had the plates made to fit...24 linear feet turn key would be (IMHO) around $1600.00. I'm guessing this upgrade to the boat will come out around twenty-two to twenty-five hundred easily.
that is a pretty high guess ... and i believe that i can not charge extra for "being setup" i believe that the fact that i am set up is the reason why i got the job ....
but thank you for your input !
Hey Pete, nice video, im from ontario canada, run a small custom fab shop, was thinking this would be handy on the road and shop, looks like a fairly advanced unit for aluminum which could be above competitors, does aluminum tig still have its own place compared to thismaxhine or will this work on thin aluminum well? Josh
i would say yes - but a very small piece .... i have about 30 machines (mig, tig stick plasmas and engine drives .. ) i used to have 3 acdc tig machines before i got my Pro pulse 200 ... about 3 month laster i sold the first one - and 6 month later i sold another one .. the last one i kept ... it is good for some super clean build up welds on parts that were machined wrong (with no spatter over the rest of the part) it si also good to make some cosmetic welds on little motorcycle oil tanks - it also mades 100% leak tight welds at first try ..... (not saying this machine here can not - but it takes some getting to know it to dial it in perfect .....
for the day in day out business though - where back in the days 50% of my aluminum welding was spool gun and 50% was ac tig .... now its 95% pro pulse 0% spool gun and 5% tig ....
but when it comes to those 5% you don't want to miss it ....
on the other hand - if you currently don't own a acdc tig - don't bother buying one once you own a machine like this
for repairs it is excellent ! did you see the bulk tanker repairs ? the baffles and the catwalks ? i mean it is 41 lbs - with a 25 ft gas hose and 220 volt extension cord this thing will run off your miller or lincoln engine drive - like a champ !
you will be fixing truck aluminum fenders, bumpers trailer floor, etc etc .....
for aluminum in my opinion it is the absolute #1 when it comes to aluminum and portability
it is still #1 even without the portability aspect - just from a price point ... you can not tough ANYTHING in the north american market not even for twice the money ... Miller 5g lincoln 45oo (yes - of course those machines have 300+ amps) but they don't run off your generator and weigh 5 times as much and cost more than twice as much ...
esab, nothing, thermal arc, nothing (yes the SP320 if you have 7 grand laying around ....)
everlast - nothing their pulse machine is full manual pulse - takes you weeks to figure out how that works ... and has no hot start, no crater fill ... nothing ....
so i say - if you have a need for it - go for it ! programs for gas less and dual shield flux cored ... steel pulse spray arc (looks like store-bought welds) excellent for Stainless and super versatile with sibro ... even for cast iron .....
i mean i have it - and i like it ! and you would have to pry it out of my cold hand if you would want mine ....
I wont take it from ya, haha yeah i have ac dc on my lincoln ranger 250 to run tig and a scratch start tig on my miller 250 shop stick welder, i seen the bulk tank truck repair with that machine, love these videos! I know this would give me a bit of an edge around here as far as advanced aluminum repair and fab goes
That machine is nice! Really enjoy your videos, but I don't care for the music, makes it hard to hear what you're saying.
I will work on finding a better balance - also using a new camera and stuff - still learning
tubeonline629 HTP says no ..... give me a few month ..... i am cooking something up .... we’ll see how that works out .... the problem with spool gun is most of them cant handle the heat of pulse mig aluminum .... the thing i am working on includes a modified spool gun ....
But i mean this machines works really nice with that mig gun they sell for aluminum use ....
How did you determine the grade or series of aluminum that the boat and plate were made of?
the customer (when he bought the material at his metal distributor) his invoice said 3003 H14 the boat - that is a little bit more tricky ... a lot of manufactures will post on their website or tell you when you call them what grade aluminum they used. only "high end" manufactures (more so than even big names - that is not the same) will use actual marine grade aluminum 5086 most common ......
Pretty much the majority of "economy" boat manufactures and most "inland" or "sweet water boats" are made from 5052 H32 aluminum (that being the most popular by far)
I don't know if you had to do much fit up, but I would think about 250. For that job if plates were already cut and in place. I guess it would depend on if he is going to let you borrow it next summer.
the guy provided the material, wire brushed the paint off cut it to size and fitted 95% of it... it was basically "just welding"
The one reason I'm asking is this unit is a 220 volt and cannot be too far from the power source ,with a spool gun I can extend the working distance from power source , example I have a Aluminum trailer that is about 40' away +- with a 20' heavy cord for 220 volt and a 20/25' spoolgun hook up I can do what I need to do
jas van i would not worry about that so much - when i did those aluminum tanker trailers i ran the machine on a 100’ cord !!!! 10awg The max draw is only 35 amp ... effective input current is 19 amp or so ....
A 100’ cord will be just fine ...
jas van and than for maximum portability i used a 25 ft gas hose .... that works really well ! The machine itself is only 41 lbs
Wouldnt 5356 wire be more ductile for a marine application ?? I am NOT an expert.
i am not sure that ductility is higher on 5356 ... i made a few videos on aluminum 4043 vs 5356 - pointing out all the differences ... and some aluminimnweldinh 101 video .... in one or maybe both of those videos is a link to a lincoln electric 72 page brochure ... that is HIGHLY informative !
since no real marine grade aluminum was used 4043 was adequate here ....
a"real" marine application needs a 5000 series filler wire
Thank you !
5356 on boat all the time 10 % mag ///4043 no good goes black looks like a turd
bill block FYI 5356 is AL MG5 It is 5% magnesium not 10
And under a few mil of paint it does not discolor either
And YES in a “real” marine application with 5086 base a 5000 series filler is an absolute must !
And if you dont know 100% what material you are dealing with 5356 is the “better” and “safer” choice.
400 with materials provided?
the HTP PP 200 makes my Hobart spool gun set up look like a toe nail clipper .great video ! really appreciate the knowledge .
thank you for watching - you the pulse is a TOTAL game changer on mig ... ( i mean on tig there is a pretty noticeable difference between pulse and no pulse ) but mig welding (not just aluminum ) the difference is GROUNDBREAKING ! spool guns are good - they get you by. all long as you are welding no thinner than .100" - you will be good !
Thanks.
Question: the amp reading on the screen is peak amps or does the machine automatically select the peak and base currents based on the amp setting originally set? Also in single pulse is the frequency set automatically as I didnt see you set it
The reading on the screen is an effective average. Peak is 300 amp
Thx
Have yet to use the PP220 with aluminum. I like 4943 tig rod so I was considering trying Hobart .035" 4943 wire. Would the 4043 settings work or be a good starting point for 4943 wire? I'm interested in what your thoughts are or if you ever tried the 4943.
I have only used the tig rods and some 4943 in a spool gun without pulse.
I have talked to a bunch of customers who run that wire on pp200/220
It needs a little more voltage than 4043 maybe +1.0 otherwise the 4043 program is reasonably close ….
Some guys like to use the 5356 program with a little bit more arc length correction…. I can see how the 5356 paw has a better arc on material thicknesses of .080” and less material thickness.
Great video Pete, love your work. Got a question how thick of aluminum did you weld or can you weld with a Stel iron mig 221? Thanks
That is not a one answer question..... are you using ALMG5 wire or ALSI5 wire ? 1.0mm or 1.2mm?
the short answer is (single pass weld) no preheat room temperature material
1.0 mm wire ALSI5 roughly 6mm
1.0mm wire ALMG5 roughly 5mm
1.2mm wire ALSI5 roughly 8-10mm
1.2mm wire ALMG5 roughly 6-8mm
the 1.0mm programs have pulse these thinnesses are for single pulse, the some material thickness off for double pulse
the 1.2mm wire programs are SPARY non pulse ...
Thanks for your answer, for most of the jobs i’ll be using ALMG5 1,2mm, i have a ESS E4 2800 machine with pulse and all the AL programs, am hoping it is enough for 10mm thick aluminum, most jobs are repairing truck tipper trailers
I dont know what to quote this one at?24 linear feet??hmmmm maybe 500$ plus the spool of wire? or more??I wonder if your quoting by the inch or foot?also ive been wondering when your going to be on the welding tips and tricks podcast Peter??...gotta be soon hey... thanks for sharing and putting real-world content out there..
for tig that price might be good - wire you cant get that much ..... or maybe if you are in a "high end" neighborhood than you might get away with that
@@ZILAwelds quality work doesn't have a zip code. People drive across states for quality.
@@DustinApple in Wisonsin 53108 this job is worth less than in Illinois 60083 which is less than 30 min away from here but the job is at least 25%-50% worth more there ... taxes on houses are 3x as high - the over all income of residents is 25-50% higher cost of living and boating lifestyle is completely different ....
What do you have the gas flow at on this machine for pulsed aluminum?
40 ish CFH…. Because with pulse you need a little more than regular spray ( more amps in the peak pulse current which determines the gas flow needs)
Besides gas is your friend! In some situations i run 50 to help “keep things clear”
Is minimum wire feed equal to 0 fpm? If not, why any modern machine would not have a gas purge function without feeding wire is curious.
on this particular machine the minimum wire feed rate is 4 imp in manual mode i believe and 55 imp or more in the various synergic programs - depending on the program ....
most modern machines have Purge buttons some also have Jog buttons ....
me - call me old school or ignorant ...
there are a few inventions that i don't really use ... (personally)
that does not mean that those functions are bad or anything .... I own about 30 welding machines ... some have jog and purge buttons - some don't. and the ones that do - they are ALWAYS in a different location - some are inside the machine (you have to open the wire compartment) some are on the front panel ....
so i have defaulted to use the torch trigger - which is btw pretty AWESOME it is in the same location on every machine (right on the torch) and it is a "magic" dual function button - it can purge AND jog ....
so it makes my live really easy .. and in my mind simplicity is key ! also when you feed really small diameter wire through the torch or really soft wire - you want the torch to be as straight as possible - so why would you wan to use a job button inside the wire compartment when the torch trigger is literally on your finger tips !
also this particular machine here has a function that shuts the gas and the welding current off after 3 or 4 sec feeding wire but not making an arc.
so on this machine there is not even any danger that the wire shortens out or anything ....
So it's just me ... no "real" reason
ZILA - Any reason that you couldn't purge without wire installed; or, doesn't a purge occur when depressing the trigger to install the wire?
oh absolutely you can purge without the wire being install ... and also the machine "purges itself" as you feed the wire through the gun (if you use the trigger)....
I guess the point here was that you can use the purge function to check your gas flow rate (without feeding wire) not really to purge the machine and the gun .....
either way - i think this is being overthought ....
Great 👍 job Piter! Wow wonderful and amazing sharing friend plz stay connected 👍
Can I use a spoolgun with this Machine?
jas van i already put a push pull gun on this machine ....!
Of course i voided all my warranty, cut and soldered wires .....
And NOW htp is all the sudden very interested in this mod .....
Can you use HTP's aluminum welding rolls and guns with steel? They seem to sell the propulse with guns and rolls for steel and others for aluminum. It would be great if you could get one gun for both steel and aluminum, the rollers don't really matter if they have to be changed out. I'm guessing but have no clue. I'd say $250 to $500 labor cost, but I have no clue how long it took to do that job so strictly a guess.
the Sharp v rolls are for steel, stainless and sibro only - the aluminum rolls are for aluminum only - that way you also prevent cross contamination.... as far as the gun the aluminum gun is a little bigger (but they sell that size for steel too) they are a little shorter about 8.5 ft .. like 2.50m they have a special liner and special tips ....once you run anything but aluminum through that liner - it is junk pretty fast or cross contaminated ....
now there are guys where they use the same gun - but switch the timer and the tips out every time ... to me that makes absolutely no sense .... between $250 and $500 is a good guess depending on where you are located
Depends on how long it took you to do the job. I would be happy at 300. Now I charge by the hour. If the customer supplied the materials and pre fit everything 300 is right. If I had to fit and supply 6-700 sounds good
thanks
Great tips. Best regards from Serbia. Just one suggestion. Include camera with some kind of dark filter so people could seen gun manipulation.
i started using a new camera a week ago... and i am still trying to find out the details ... and i don't have my new filter plates for arc shot yet .... normally heather works with me - the boat i did all by myself - its really hard to weld and film at the same time .....
Thank you for the information. Very informative
You are welcome
Well done Peter!
windsock777 thanks
Great lesson thank you, much appreciated
Job- you said it was already fit by the customer. I'd planned for 4hrs labor+100 for consumables and overhead. Clean, weld, water test, and fix any leaks. $500 job
clean, yes - where necessary, customer did a good job, 3 hrs labor $25 for consumables because I used too much argon gas ...LOL. weld - send it ! no leak testing you can see the arc much like tig and you can see where to fully fuses the metal and you have no short circuit crackle .... so you know you are breaking through the oxide layer .... $300 out the door
@@ZILAwelds Welding wise sounds reasonable but you're not being paid for your experience. Have to sell that part. That's the "water test" part.
@@DustinApple LOL. it was November ... customer water tested it in march all on his own ... no complains ....LOL. he came back to build it out and put a full deck on the front ruclips.net/video/DekduNFexBM/видео.html that is one not to miss !
and then Cleetus McFarland saw that ... and next thing you know ....
ruclips.net/video/l6GeNNZmWuw/видео.html
You're not going to be happy until I buy one of those machines, are you? ;)
Thank you for watching ! Every time someone watches an ad and does not skip it i make about 0.2 cents or 0.002 dollar .....
Now as far as the machine goes - you buy one - great - you don't buy one great ... it does not effect me (financially) in any way shape or form ... i don't get commission, i am not on HTP's payroll .... whatever you want to do
HOWEVER if you buy one - this video already teaches you how to set it up for aluminum welding !
so that "lesson" you learned for totally free !
LOL
Just messing with you. Text can't possibly convey how much I want one of those machines.
no worries - i didn't take it the wrong way. i have seen from your past comments that you are REALLY looking forward to get your hands on one of those anyways .... They were out of stock and than i know they received a small shipment - i don't know if they any of those left .... but those machines - cant keep stock on them ... they are just so popular
i just specifies my answer for everyone who read your comment for the first time - there are a ton of guys who are showing stuff (all sort of brands) just to show it ... they got it in the mail this morning and tonight its the "latest and greatest " on youtube .... LOL
i actually buy my own stuff and make money with it - those videos are entertainment and hobby for me - not a paid source of income ....
and a lot of guys who just found my channel just don't know that
Nice job Pete!
thanks !
Great videos, thumbs up
Pete I would have done the job for around 750$, including the fit up but would have tiged it. That's 288 inches at alittle under 3$ a ft. What did you charge?
he guy provided the material, wire brushed the paint off cut it to size and fitted 95% of it... it was basically "just welding" i had about 3+ hrs into it ... and some argon, electricity and wire .... going rate in my area is about $80-$125/hr .....
ZILA- ok knowing that I change my cost, I was unaware of the time invested other than welding I figured more. In Texas we charge around the same per hour fitting or welding. I mostly do shop work. Check out my instagram Pete, millerismyname ive started to post some pics. I'd really like to get you opinion on my welds.
Chris Miller where in Texas are you because I’m thinking about buying a new job boat and doing the same thing.. thx
I would charge a dollar per inch with a gun, and 10 dollars a rod tig welding. $80 PH fit up and prep.
I like the machine and your welds are good. nice profile, no rolling on the toe and hot. But I cannot understand why you weld free handed. This is something I was told never to do when I learned the trade and for a good reason. I can see on your long stretch where you went a bit sideways, That is caused by free hand welding. You must be exceptionally good to weld like that, I cant.
Well, when i first learned mig welding ( in germany almost 30 years ago ) automatic helmets were not really a thing. Hand held shields were the “standard”. So the first 5 years of my life i welded ( by necessity ) single handed.
At some point i moved to the states and welded with a regular hood and i applied for a job here and the guy said : i will hire you but you need to weld with 2 hands!!!! And i said, when you hold the pen you sign my paycheck with with BOTH hands as you are signing it - that will be the day i weld with both hands 😂
Fast forward : i did a lot of work in scrapyards, on ladders , holding myself up with one hand, welding with the other ….
And i used to be really good at it much better than in this video or now ….
Now i have “experience” and i dont give a f ….
When i weld under a trailer, on a ladder, in some tight space often enough i have to weld single handed and often enough the situation chooses ( not me) which hand i have to weld with ….
I can weld almost as good with the left hand as i can with the right … it does not matter ….
I am not sure that there is anything exceptional about me …. Its just years of muscle memory and what you are used to …
@@ZILAwelds I pretty much did like you. Came from France in the US in 75. learned the trade went to work for Douglas as a Tig welder, then open my business portable welding in CA specializing in seismic retrofit.10% of the weld are UT. No way I could weld the full pen with innershield at 300 amps single hand. NO WAY. I like the HTP. In one of the videos the guy is maxed out and the amps shows 160. I dont get it. is n it supposed to peak at 220 for ten seconds like they claim in the brochure? Take care. (where are you located?)
@@bernardmauge8613 milwaukee wi
The amperage varies greatly with ctwd ( aka stick out) if you are too close you get well over 200 amps, if you hold it just right you will be at 180-190 ish amps and if you hold it way too far then you see 150-160 ish …..
I enjoyed watching your videos, I would say a job like this has to be at $800. I am a true believer a man should be paid fair. When the customer helps I charge twice as much.
Juan Ar when the customer helps or stands over your shoulder and tells you what to do - FOR SURE twice as much !!! Lol
marvelous work, I would say £300 for the job. Thanks for showing
Thank you! the price you suggest is fair
There is no way in hell I would ever use a regular push fed mig gun with aluminum wire going through it.
If it’s not huge diameter it will kink and break and then your changing your liner out. Hell we use to have hell with millers push pull gun. Spool guns work best but I’m willing to give push pulls another go at before I close the door on them.
LOL ..... I have run well over 200rolls of aluminum wire through that machine like this ... and I can count the amount of birds nests on less than 2 hands !!!! and thousands of HTP customers fell the same way.
Makin it look easy brother!
customer did good prep - and the machine makes it look easy ... the stuff even goes in like butter on overhead ...
i mean - not saying that some experience is not a good helper - but
there are machines that no matter how much experience you have - and no matter how much you do - you are still "fighting" it every day - and than there are machines - they just work great !
so my machine shop guy had an old linda 600 amp wire welder - and he absolutely loved it ! so he bought a PP200 for some aluminum stuff (never the less because he saw one at my shop - but lets not digress)
so he called me up his machinist and part time welder was not in that day and he had to get a 6" Channel from a welded up and delivered the same day - he said: you need to come over and weld that - now when heals i typically jump ! (that works both ways thought - he saved my a$$ more than once ... )
and i started welding that frame - and in typical machine shop fashion - everything was clean, milled, squared .. .. no mill scale no surface rust .... just " a welders dream" - THAT is how they do it there - quality and nothing else.
So i started welding with his machine - and it didn't look right, it didn't feel right and i think the liner on his gun was going out ...
so i walked out to the van, grabbed a roll of 030 wire and started to set up the PP200 for Steel, pulsed mig .....
he started yelling at me - what are you doing there!?!
said - making sure you are getting nice welds !
he said - this is thick stuff - you better use that 045 wire ! i said - nada 030 will be fine .... than he started to shake his head and walked away in his office ...
typically when he does machining - i leave him alone - when i do welding - he leaves me alone ... we both have that done more than once before and typically do not need 3rd party advice on how to do things ....
he comes back about 15 min later - looks at the welds - spatter free !!! beautiful as all can be !
another 30 min later everything was welded up - i left he shipped the frame to the customer.
a week goes by ... he calls me and says - can i get 2 more rolls of that wire ???
and a roll of stainless, and a roll of aluminum - and what gasses do i all need ....
another 2 weeks go buy - the 600 amp machine GONE !!!! he said it took up too much space ... LOL
ZILA do you prefer to run 30 wire or the 35 on steel in the PP200? for some reason my Lincoln 175 ran better on 35.
i run 030 for spray pulse (there is no program for 25 for that) and i run 030 for short circuit mig of i am too lazy to switch to 35 and i uses 030 for auto body thickness and really thin stuff ...
so basically i uses 030 pretty much all the time ....
030 and 035 both run up to 200 amp both run up to 1/4" material thickness.
both run fine ...
I had them throw in 35 and 35 tips with mine. I have 30 on hand. Not sure my Lincoln 30 tips are compatible though. Tracking says I'll have a PP200 in my shop tomorrow.
lincoln is typically a tweco gun - tweco guns are ste thread ... you need M6 tips ... sometimes your local tractor supply store has some
A job like this with no time spent on clean up and fit up weld time only $2 per inch.
Well if it is the same guy that shot a hole in the bottom of the boat you might give him a return customer discount !
John Smith lol no - this is s different guy....
John Smith lol no - this is s different guy....
Material n Labor = $310.00
Plate (my guess) = $75.00
@ $80.00 hour x 3 hours
Am I close?
Question: I want to build me an 16" Aluminum boat, do yo think I would be fine using my Lincoln 210mp?
3 hrs at $100 per hour customer supplied the material (which by my best guess was at least $150 maybe 200. as far as the 210mp being a good welder - maybe. let me write a separate reply for that
750
That is more than twice what i got
$600.00
today with inflation and all YES ! that would be about the going rate ....
yea 300 bucks should do it
back then it did