Nice job ! Great explanation. Be nice to see some cut and etch on steel pulse mig’d and stick. Might take a couple of samples to show the on and off penetration depths. No one seems to be etching pulsed welds. Or maybe I’m not finding them on RUclips. I’m concerned about strength. I’d also like to know your thoughts about HTP vs Everlast. I’m trying to decide between the ProPule or the 253DPI.
Peter I was wondering what the pp300 is like with standard 035 wire can you pulse with 75/25? Been thinking esab285 but would like pulse as an option plus the water cooled gun looks great for aluminum. I look forward to hearing from you!
@@ZILAwelds Power I MIG 253 DPI vs. Propulse 300. I have a few HTP machines and am a faithful customer but price wise the Everlast is very attractive. I remember you said once the "cheap man buys twice". I don't think that is the case here though.
Hey, Peter enjoy all your video You and Chuckie great! I myself have been an aerospace and FAA welder. Ran a lot of different automatic welding equipment such as a dabber tig machine do air seals. I have very good hand doing Tig and carry a lot of X-Ray certs in past jobs. The one thing I have not master is walking the cup any suggestion on how to get this process down and I've watched some cup walking video on RUclips.
Fred, I personally free had most of the SS tig as i don't like walking the cup because it scratches up my parts really bad... I? would look at Jody's videos (welding tips and tricks) he walks the cup on almost everythingng
Can you do a video using TIG on the PP300? I feel like if it’s any good, it’ll be an awesome all around machine. I can’t find anyone demonstrating it. Thanks!
You made this video for ME didn't you? What program do you pick for 316L dual shield flux core? Hey, I talked to someone in the UK and he said the Stel sister machine of the 200 lacks a 316L setting too.
worldtraveler the stel iron mig 221p only has 308 programs. 0.8mm and 1.0mm On the 300 the program is called E30X LT1 It is black in color like all other stainless programs.
worldtraveler also you want to take one of my classes .... fly i to racine,wi airport, i pick you up ..... then you can be a part of the whatsapp group with all the guys who took classes here and there are a bunch of guys with pp300 on there ....
Can you go into the 3/64 PAW 4043 program and tell us what the min and max is for the synergetic material thicknesses? On my iron mig 220 .035 PAW only goes to 2.0mm. I want to see what it is for the 3/64 PAW? The PAW programs are unreal and always my goto but it sucks when you weld anything thicker than 2.0 on the 220 and you have to go to the pulse or double pulse programs as they just dont have the same finesse to them imo. But they are still great.... just not the same amount of control I think.
Skylinerd1 i didnt forget about you! 4043 3/64 Min 78 ipm .040 Max 236 ipm .120 But 035 4043 Min 78 ipm .032 Max 177 ipm .079 So the 600 amp peak pulse vs the 300 amp peak pulse on your machine give you a much better low end to weld thin material !
@@ZILAwelds Awesome thanks for the info. So the 3/64 program can PAW 3.0mm material. Pretty cool. I did a heap of 2.0mm boxes for a horse truck side storage compartments and the machine worked real good for that made the job quick. It would be nice to be able to do the same thing with 3.0mm material. I might have to look into one of these 300 class machines in the future. I wonder will they make a higher amerperage machine than this in the future because I really want something that can do it all. I mean 400amp class so I can arc air and pulse mig. But im thinking maybe I should just get an old second hand 500amp generator welder for that and maybe get the PP300 later.
Skylinerd1 do you live in europe and you have 3 phase 400 .... they already did trade shows with a max 452 .... it is a power source like the max 403 but much more powerful ! It will also have a feeder that has a display much like the pp200 .... aluminum programs, air arc ... the whole package ! But its 3 phase 400-500 volt only .... no single phase - so no good for usa
No Im in New Zealand so like the Australian guy its a bit difficult. There is a distributor here in NZ but iv never heard of him selling any and the price is to high so I just import it myself. I did actually talk to stel briefly about becoming a distributor or reseller myself but havent taken it any further. I looked at teh stel max 452 but couldnt tell if it had the programs like the 221p or not. So it does thats cool. Stel needs to put out more info on that machine or demo it.
@@ZILAwelds we have 3 phase here in NZ. But its expensive. Thats why I think about generator. But this max 452 could be good all rounder if it has programs.
Hey Pete, I am considering pulling the trigger on one of these machines. however i have a few questions. I am in Australia , does that mean i have to get the Stel ironmig instead? They are the same machine right? And similarly i cant find anywhere to purchase either the HTP or stel. Can i buy yours haha. kind regards.
stobby neither htp nor stel has a dealer/distributor in australia. The stel would ship from italy and the htp would ship from usa. The warranty in any case would be a little bit of a challenge .... I believe that although a lot of accessories are identical the air cooled aluminum mig gun from htp might be a little bit better. What are you looking to do with it? And i guess shipping cost is a whole another issue ... But it is all do able, both companies sold to australia before Best thing is you email jnoland@htpweld.com and get a quote ...
@@ZILAwelds Thanks for the Info, I may have told you previously, i cant remember though. I Am building an offshore aluminum plate boat and alloy trailer to suit. I am currently running a 250 amp transformed mig, And the stepped voltage selector is a pain in the butt. It can make nice welds but is not the easiest thing in the world to use. From what i can see the HTP does seem a touch better than the STEL. The only machine i can find is on ebay, Brand new stel 221p comes to around $2700 AUD. ($1900USD). shipped from italy.
stobby the htp pro pulse 200 has the remote control option for the aluminum mig welding. The stel iron mig does not. Also the htp has in my mind the better aluminum mig gun ( the tips are better and larger, it can tolerate more amperage when pulse mig welding aluminum) The pp300 vs iron mig 303 sp - that race is much closer. But i think the htp pp300 is a little bit cheaper too and it has a WAY better operators manual !
Hi, I recently found your channel which I am enjoying. what are your recommended stick welder machine, and mig welder machine for the home hobbyist? thanks.
ralfman5 thanks for watching ! The first welder, that is a loaded question .... Are you using it for hobby or do you want to make money with it? Ofter your first welder is a bit of s stretch what you can afford also ..... with 18 i bough a professional grade mig machine (new), then made money with it and at 19 i bought a professional grade acdc tig ( used) And for me it was the right decision - i never looked back and questioned it.... I think if you have low end machines - as a beginner you are fighting everything already more than enough .... if you have a questionable machine already .... you can finish drawing the picture yourself .... You are making it unnecessary hard on you and artificially lengthen your learning curve by 2 3 5 10 times .... I have taught plenty of guys .... some guys want to be taught how to use their own equipment ..... one guy had a lotus welder .... he was trying to run 7018 1/8” at 125 amps shown in the read out and was wondering why he sucked so much ... So i welded with his machine and my regular 7018 rods and i started dialing it in by “feel” .... by the time i was done and the rods ran good - the digital display was showing 196 amp !!!! No no typo 196 amp!!!! And then i put my clamp amp meter around the ground cable and measured the actual welding amps live as it was happening .... the meter showed 130-131 amp ..... So that guys cheap chinese lotus machine was a real buzz kill for him .... he screwed around for month ! Not being able to even sort of get the hang of it .... So if you want to hear a make or model .... let me know how much welding you know, if you want to make money with it or just hobby and roughly what your budget is and how fast you want to move on this and would you consider buying one sooner and the other one a year later or so ??? All those things would influence and Change my recommendation ....
Thanks for the reply....I've been recently practicing on my everlast iMig200 that I bought 2 years ago. I'm having a hard time doing uphill vertical welds on 3/16 diameter steel plate. My future goal is to be able to weld a roll cage for my wrangler. I certainly can't afford one of those nice Miller Tig, Mig welders that go for over 2k. Everlasts' pricing on their machines is attractive, but I am afraid about what happens after the 5 years, and if something breaks and they no longer produce the parts I would need. The other concern is investing in a nice miller machine and after the warranty, if something breaks down and then being told the price for the parts over 1k like what happened to you..pretty painful. Now my dilemma is should I just what I have and buy a tig welder or buy something decent that is a multi-process welder for the 2k that will last me a long time for home use since I don't even know how to go about making money off my welder. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. You seem to be the most honest voice I have found in the online welding world. @@ZILAwelds
ralfman5 so let me try to get this straight... are you planing on tig welding the roll cage or mig welding the roll cage ? Look up URCHFAB on youtube ... he does beautiful mig roll cages. Welding vertical up with “regular” mig wire is not the easiest thing out there .... that is one of those scenarios where arc dynamic really comes into play. And arc dynamic can not be captured in any spec sheet or youtube video - YOU have to experience it. And the way how one guy likes his woman to be skinny and the next guy likes his girl chubby and the 3rd guy may not like girls at all .... arc dynamic is a very subjective topic ....! What i like and what firs my welding style may or may not be to your likings .... Personally i think everlast ( generally speaking - some models may differ) have a pretty good stick arc. The machines that i ran the mig arc was ok - it did the job - but it was nothing that i was overly impressed with.... but there again, i welded with 5 or 6 different everlast migs in my life - i dont know them all and other guys who welded with the same machine said that it welded great! So in the end .... nothing beats experience hands on. Miller, especially the home owners stuff , You need to be very careful with as fat as quality and performance .... many guys told my that they like the htp mig 200i better than the miller 211 and i have welded with both of them and i can see and understand why people would say something like this .... The lincoln 210mp has arc dynamic that i personally like a lot. Nice driving arc very similar to the htp 200i but the wire feeder on the lincoln leaves to be desired .... also the lincoln is like a quick set up screen ( so they say) but it is not really infinitely synergic .... which as you start to use it more can be really cumbersome ( i was at a muffler-shop this week doing some aluminum welding for them) they had a 210mp and they loved it BUT were running it in full manual mode ..... Maybe i need to do a video in that I think without actually using the machine this is “hard to understand” Then the stick on the everlast is much more to my liking than the stick on the lincoln .... Back to miller .... if you can buy a 252 ... now that is a quality machine! But the again - most likely not in budget. If you are not under the gun to buy something right now - hold out! Try to run some lincoln 71m outershield or esab 7100 ultra in 035 diameter with 75/25 gas in the machine and you will see that vertical up is getting super easy !! And good quality welds too! I have another machine or 2 that i hopefully will have time to test after Christmas .... Maybe if you dont have to buy anything before the end of winter .... hang in there - i may have some better recommendation ....
ralfman5 advice on how to find work? You need to get your name out there... customers like to find you and not you to find them .... If you advertise ( craigslist for example) for some guys the yellow pages work good but in comparison are very expensive .... google ads .... Leave your business cards at local truck stops etc .... Some guys get work by going to other businesses ( farms, machine shops etc ...) however that never worked for me .... Start a youtube channel .... by the time you have 20-30ooo subscribers people will contact you to do work for them .... I mean the possibilities are endless - some work better than others for the area you are in with the personality you have ..... Try, try, try and dont take NO for an answer ....
good advice, I will try the dual shielded lincoln wire, that goes for 52 bucks for 10 lbs for now. I would buy a used Miller 252 if I find one local on Ebay, new is about 2750 with 300 rebate until 12/31. I could wait until next year after your reviews. I know that you get what you pay for. @@ZILAwelds
Josh Helm the pp300 can run C25 for pulse mig as it has WAY more power and arc dynamic. It can also run 90/10 The pp200 is limited in power output 200 amp class machine 220 amp for 10 sec and a peak pulse for up to 300amp where the pp300 is a 300 amp class machine with 320 amp max output in mig mode and a peak pulse of up to 600 amp !!!! This is a whole different ball game! Also the pp200 has a ton of single pulse programs and only 2 double pulse programs total for aluminum. The double pulse parameters are factory pre programmed. The pp300 for example - every pulse program is a single AND double pulse program with an option to manually change the double pulse parameters .... This works in steel also! ( and stainless and sibro) So you can even get your stack of dimes look with regular old mig wire .... Pro Tip: use ER70-s3 ( not s6) since it is less fluid and faster freezing and makes nicer ripples because of that....
@@ZILAwelds I have a heck of a time not melting my diffusers and im never running it on thicker than 3/16 hardly. im running .030 and 90/10 staying in pulse program all the time. Stilll havent found that sweet spot for it to not spatter or sound like short curcuit without it being to hot for my .083 tubing im always welding.
I did have to change the screen in mine last week. The original screen locked up and wouldnt adjust. Brandon hooked me up with another one and i got it installed over the weekend.
Josh Helm that is an easy fix. 1st dial up the voltage a little bit till the short circuit crackling goes away .... my guess + 1.0 volt maybe 1.5 2nd order yourself up some heavy duty ceramic diffusors .... the are like 6 or 7 bucks a piece but if you dont break them physically that will be the last diffusor you will ever buy or need. 3rd enjoy crackle and spatter free welding
edsautorepair i dont know - there is no need to ever run it on one .... it can run on a 220/240 single phase 50 amp outlet without and de rating in output or duty cycle ever !
yes - you are 100% correct !!! the max output is 300 amp on stick and tig and 320 on wire. no matter what you are plugged into !!!! on a 240 single phase it draws 50 amp and on 480 3 phase, it only draws 17 amp to do 300 amp output. the duty cycle at 104F is 35% at 300. 60% at 250 and 100% at 200 and on 77F it is 60% at 300 and 100% at 250 I believe .... and that is also the same no matter what power you are plugged into ... the only thing that changes is the amp draw and the size of extension cord you need .... if you run on 240 single phase depending on how long the cord is it needs to be 8awg - on 480 3 pahse you can run 12 ga (seeing its only 17 amp max draw .. the effective draw is even less ....
ZILA that’s awesome. Having the shop located out of my home shop 3 phase is impossible to get in the woods. My lathe and mill run on 3 phase converters. That’s a very impressive duty cycle as well. When would you suggest going water cooled?
edsautorepair if you do aluminum 1/4” thick ... you can start thinking about water cooling. If you do A LOT of 1/4” Aluminum or you do thicker than 1/4” ( even if it is “not much”) in my opinion you should have a water cooler ... 600 amp peak pulse is super hot - it will fry stuff fast and there is nowhere for the heat to go.... If you weld cored wires or regular mild steel no pulse air cooled is fine. Anything pulsed even stainless, mild steel and of cause aluminum over a couple minutes at a time .... you should start thinking about water cooling .... What are you planing on doing with the machine?
Very helpful on the pulse settings Pete 👌
Thanks ! I hipe it helps you dialing stuff in
valuable info on welding aluminum and in detail info on HTP 300 nice work zila
Nice job ! Great explanation.
Be nice to see some cut and etch on steel pulse mig’d and stick.
Might take a couple of samples to show the on and off penetration depths.
No one seems to be etching pulsed welds. Or maybe I’m not finding them on RUclips.
I’m concerned about strength.
I’d also like to know your thoughts about HTP vs Everlast. I’m trying to decide between the ProPule or the 253DPI.
How do you like the Everlast compared to the HTP pro pause 200
I know what my next welder will be. Thank for sharing!
Same!
Can you use pure co2 for dual shield and solid wire steel welding with that machine knowing that it doesnt have program for 100% co2?
Thanks
You could. With some voltage adjustments ….
Look at my CO2 video i made in the last 3 ish month ….
Peter I was wondering what the pp300 is like with standard 035 wire can you pulse with 75/25? Been thinking esab285 but would like pulse as an option plus the water cooled gun looks great for aluminum. I look forward to hearing from you!
Officially htp tells you no, i have done it by adding some extra voltage, its not ideal but can be done
Hello Peter,
How would you compare HTP to Everlast? Would love to see a head to head throwdown between the two.
which models do you want to compare ?
@@ZILAwelds Power I MIG 253 DPI vs. Propulse 300. I have a few HTP machines and am a faithful customer but price wise the Everlast is very attractive. I remember you said once the "cheap man buys twice". I don't think that is the case here though.
Hey, Peter enjoy all your video You and Chuckie great! I myself have been an aerospace and FAA welder. Ran a lot of different automatic welding equipment such as a dabber tig machine do air seals. I have very good hand doing Tig and carry a lot of X-Ray certs in past jobs. The one thing I have not master is walking the cup any suggestion on how to get this process down and I've watched some cup walking video on RUclips.
Fred, I personally free had most of the SS tig as i don't like walking the cup because it scratches up my parts really bad...
I? would look at Jody's videos (welding tips and tricks) he walks the cup on almost everythingng
@@ZILAwelds Thank you
Can you do a video using TIG on the PP300? I feel like if it’s any good, it’ll be an awesome all around machine. I can’t find anyone demonstrating it. Thanks!
You made this video for ME didn't you? What program do you pick for 316L dual shield flux core? Hey, I talked to someone in the UK and he said the Stel sister machine of the 200 lacks a 316L setting too.
worldtraveler the stel iron mig 221p only has 308 programs. 0.8mm and 1.0mm
On the 300 the program is called E30X LT1 It is black in color like all other stainless programs.
worldtraveler also you want to take one of my classes .... fly i to racine,wi airport, i pick you up ..... then you can be a part of the whatsapp group with all the guys who took classes here and there are a bunch of guys with pp300 on there ....
Can you go into the 3/64 PAW 4043 program and tell us what the min and max is for the synergetic material thicknesses? On my iron mig 220 .035 PAW only goes to 2.0mm. I want to see what it is for the 3/64 PAW? The PAW programs are unreal and always my goto but it sucks when you weld anything thicker than 2.0 on the 220 and you have to go to the pulse or double pulse programs as they just dont have the same finesse to them imo. But they are still great.... just not the same amount of control I think.
Skylinerd1 i didnt forget about you! 4043 3/64 Min 78 ipm .040 Max 236 ipm .120
But 035 4043 Min 78 ipm .032 Max 177 ipm .079
So the 600 amp peak pulse vs the 300 amp peak pulse on your machine give you a much better low end to weld thin material !
@@ZILAwelds Awesome thanks for the info. So the 3/64 program can PAW 3.0mm material. Pretty cool. I did a heap of 2.0mm boxes for a horse truck side storage compartments and the machine worked real good for that made the job quick. It would be nice to be able to do the same thing with 3.0mm material. I might have to look into one of these 300 class machines in the future. I wonder will they make a higher amerperage machine than this in the future because I really want something that can do it all. I mean 400amp class so I can arc air and pulse mig. But im thinking maybe I should just get an old second hand 500amp generator welder for that and maybe get the PP300 later.
Skylinerd1 do you live in europe and you have 3 phase 400 .... they already did trade shows with a max 452 .... it is a power source like the max 403 but much more powerful !
It will also have a feeder that has a display much like the pp200 .... aluminum programs, air arc ... the whole package !
But its 3 phase 400-500 volt only .... no single phase - so no good for usa
No Im in New Zealand so like the Australian guy its a bit difficult. There is a distributor here in NZ but iv never heard of him selling any and the price is to high so I just import it myself. I did actually talk to stel briefly about becoming a distributor or reseller myself but havent taken it any further. I looked at teh stel max 452 but couldnt tell if it had the programs like the 221p or not. So it does thats cool. Stel needs to put out more info on that machine or demo it.
@@ZILAwelds we have 3 phase here in NZ. But its expensive. Thats why I think about generator. But this max 452 could be good all rounder if it has programs.
Hey Pete, I am considering pulling the trigger on one of these machines. however i have a few questions.
I am in Australia , does that mean i have to get the Stel ironmig instead? They are the same machine right?
And similarly i cant find anywhere to purchase either the HTP or stel. Can i buy yours haha.
kind regards.
stobby neither htp nor stel has a dealer/distributor in australia. The stel would ship from italy and the htp would ship from usa.
The warranty in any case would be a little bit of a challenge ....
I believe that although a lot of accessories are identical the air cooled aluminum mig gun from htp might be a little bit better.
What are you looking to do with it? And i guess shipping cost is a whole another issue ...
But it is all do able, both companies sold to australia before
Best thing is you email jnoland@htpweld.com and get a quote ...
@@ZILAwelds Thanks for the Info, I may have told you previously, i cant remember though. I Am building an offshore aluminum plate boat and alloy trailer to suit.
I am currently running a 250 amp transformed mig, And the stepped voltage selector is a pain in the butt. It can make nice welds but is not the easiest thing in the world to use.
From what i can see the HTP does seem a touch better than the STEL.
The only machine i can find is on ebay, Brand new stel 221p comes to around $2700 AUD. ($1900USD). shipped from italy.
stobby the htp pro pulse 200 has the remote control option for the aluminum mig welding. The stel iron mig does not. Also the htp has in my mind the better aluminum mig gun ( the tips are better and larger, it can tolerate more amperage when pulse mig welding aluminum)
The pp300 vs iron mig 303 sp - that race is much closer. But i think the htp pp300 is a little bit cheaper too and it has a WAY better operators manual !
@@ZILAwelds Ok, thanks very much for the info. I will try contacting htp and see what can be worked out.
cheers.
Hi, I recently found your channel which I am enjoying. what are your recommended stick welder machine, and mig welder machine for the home hobbyist? thanks.
ralfman5 thanks for watching ! The first welder, that is a loaded question ....
Are you using it for hobby or do you want to make money with it?
Ofter your first welder is a bit of s stretch what you can afford also .....
with 18 i bough a professional grade mig machine (new), then made money with it and at 19 i bought a professional grade acdc tig ( used)
And for me it was the right decision - i never looked back and questioned it....
I think if you have low end machines - as a beginner you are fighting everything already more than enough .... if you have a questionable machine already .... you can finish drawing the picture yourself ....
You are making it unnecessary hard on you and artificially lengthen your learning curve by 2 3 5 10 times ....
I have taught plenty of guys .... some guys want to be taught how to use their own equipment .....
one guy had a lotus welder .... he was trying to run 7018 1/8” at 125 amps shown in the read out and was wondering why he sucked so much ...
So i welded with his machine and my regular 7018 rods and i started dialing it in by “feel” .... by the time i was done and the rods ran good - the digital display was showing 196 amp !!!! No no typo 196 amp!!!! And then i put my clamp amp meter around the ground cable and measured the actual welding amps live as it was happening .... the meter showed 130-131 amp .....
So that guys cheap chinese lotus machine was a real buzz kill for him .... he screwed around for month ! Not being able to even sort of get the hang of it ....
So if you want to hear a make or model .... let me know how much welding you know, if you want to make money with it or just hobby and roughly what your budget is and how fast you want to move on this and would you consider buying one sooner and the other one a year later or so ???
All those things would influence and Change my recommendation ....
Thanks for the reply....I've been recently practicing on my everlast iMig200 that I bought 2 years ago. I'm having a hard time doing uphill vertical welds on 3/16 diameter steel plate. My future goal is to be able to weld a roll cage for my wrangler. I certainly can't afford one of those nice Miller Tig, Mig welders that go for over 2k. Everlasts' pricing on their machines is attractive, but I am afraid about what happens after the 5 years, and if something breaks and they no longer produce the parts I would need. The other concern is investing in a nice miller machine and after the warranty, if something breaks down and then being told the price for the parts over 1k like what happened to you..pretty painful. Now my dilemma is should I just what I have and buy a tig welder or buy something decent that is a multi-process welder for the 2k that will last me a long time for home use since I don't even know how to go about making money off my welder. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. You seem to be the most honest voice I have found in the online welding world. @@ZILAwelds
ralfman5 so let me try to get this straight... are you planing on tig welding the roll cage or mig welding the roll cage ? Look up URCHFAB on youtube ... he does beautiful mig roll cages.
Welding vertical up with “regular” mig wire is not the easiest thing out there .... that is one of those scenarios where arc dynamic really comes into play. And arc dynamic can not be captured in any spec sheet or youtube video - YOU have to experience it.
And the way how one guy likes his woman to be skinny and the next guy likes his girl chubby and the 3rd guy may not like girls at all ....
arc dynamic is a very subjective topic ....!
What i like and what firs my welding style may or may not be to your likings ....
Personally i think everlast ( generally speaking - some models may differ) have a pretty good stick arc.
The machines that i ran the mig arc was ok - it did the job - but it was nothing that i was overly impressed with.... but there again, i welded with 5 or 6 different everlast migs in my life - i dont know them all and other guys who welded with the same machine said that it welded great!
So in the end .... nothing beats experience hands on.
Miller, especially the home owners stuff , You need to be very careful with as fat as quality and performance .... many guys told my that they like the htp mig 200i better than the miller 211 and i have welded with both of them and i can see and understand why people would say something like this ....
The lincoln 210mp has arc dynamic that i personally like a lot. Nice driving arc very similar to the htp 200i but the wire feeder on the lincoln leaves to be desired .... also the lincoln is like a quick set up screen ( so they say) but it is not really infinitely synergic .... which as you start to use it more can be really cumbersome ( i was at a muffler-shop this week doing some aluminum welding for them) they had a 210mp and they loved it BUT were running it in full manual mode .....
Maybe i need to do a video in that
I think without actually using the machine this is “hard to understand”
Then the stick on the everlast is much more to my liking than the stick on the lincoln ....
Back to miller .... if you can buy a 252 ... now that is a quality machine! But the again - most likely not in budget.
If you are not under the gun to buy something right now - hold out!
Try to run some lincoln 71m outershield or esab 7100 ultra in 035 diameter with 75/25 gas in the machine and you will see that vertical up is getting super easy !! And good quality welds too!
I have another machine or 2 that i hopefully will have time to test after Christmas ....
Maybe if you dont have to buy anything before the end of winter .... hang in there - i may have some better recommendation ....
ralfman5 advice on how to find work?
You need to get your name out there...
customers like to find you and not you to find them ....
If you advertise ( craigslist for example) for some guys the yellow pages work good but in comparison are very expensive .... google ads ....
Leave your business cards at local truck stops etc ....
Some guys get work by going to other businesses ( farms, machine shops etc ...) however that never worked for me ....
Start a youtube channel .... by the time you have 20-30ooo subscribers people will contact you to do work for them ....
I mean the possibilities are endless - some work better than others for the area you are in with the personality you have .....
Try, try, try and dont take NO for an answer ....
good advice, I will try the dual shielded lincoln wire, that goes for 52 bucks for 10 lbs for now. I would buy a used Miller 252 if I find one local on Ebay, new is about 2750 with 300 rebate until 12/31. I could wait until next year after your reviews. I know that you get what you pay for. @@ZILAwelds
So the new ones run C25 for pulse where my 200 has to run 90/10?
Josh Helm the pp300 can run C25 for pulse mig as it has WAY more power and arc dynamic. It can also run 90/10
The pp200 is limited in power output 200 amp class machine 220 amp for 10 sec and a peak pulse for up to 300amp where the pp300 is a 300 amp class machine with 320 amp max output in mig mode and a peak pulse of up to 600 amp !!!! This is a whole different ball game!
Also the pp200 has a ton of single pulse programs and only 2 double pulse programs total for aluminum. The double pulse parameters are factory pre programmed.
The pp300 for example - every pulse program is a single AND double pulse program with an option to manually change the double pulse parameters ....
This works in steel also! ( and stainless and sibro)
So you can even get your stack of dimes look with regular old mig wire ....
Pro Tip: use ER70-s3 ( not s6) since it is less fluid and faster freezing and makes nicer ripples because of that....
@@ZILAwelds I have a heck of a time not melting my diffusers and im never running it on thicker than 3/16 hardly. im running .030 and 90/10 staying in pulse program all the time. Stilll havent found that sweet spot for it to not spatter or sound like short curcuit without it being to hot for my .083 tubing im always welding.
I did have to change the screen in mine last week. The original screen locked up and wouldnt adjust. Brandon hooked me up with another one and i got it installed over the weekend.
Josh Helm that is an easy fix.
1st dial up the voltage a little bit till the short circuit crackling goes away .... my guess + 1.0 volt maybe 1.5
2nd order yourself up some heavy duty ceramic diffusors .... the are like 6 or 7 bucks a piece but if you dont break them physically that will be the last diffusor you will ever buy or need.
3rd enjoy crackle and spatter free welding
@@ZILAwelds thanks buddy. Brandon did hook me up with a ceramic diffusor so im gonna try that out!
Hi,
Are you satisfied with the stell velding machine?
yes 100%
@@ZILAwelds Do you get tig accessories when you buy stel machine?
How well does the 300 do on a 3phase converter?
edsautorepair i dont know - there is no need to ever run it on one .... it can run on a 220/240 single phase 50 amp outlet without and de rating in output or duty cycle ever !
ZILA so You get the same amps and capabilities with 220 as I would with 440 single or 3 phase ? And the same duty cycle?
yes - you are 100% correct !!! the max output is 300 amp on stick and tig and 320 on wire. no matter what you are plugged into !!!! on a 240 single phase it draws 50 amp and on 480 3 phase, it only draws 17 amp to do 300 amp output. the duty cycle at 104F is 35% at 300. 60% at 250 and 100% at 200 and on 77F it is 60% at 300 and 100% at 250 I believe .... and that is also the same no matter what power you are plugged into ... the only thing that changes is the amp draw and the size of extension cord you need .... if you run on 240 single phase depending on how long the cord is it needs to be 8awg - on 480 3 pahse you can run 12 ga (seeing its only 17 amp max draw .. the effective draw is even less ....
ZILA that’s awesome. Having the shop located out of my home shop 3 phase is impossible to get in the woods. My lathe and mill run on 3 phase converters. That’s a very impressive duty cycle as well. When would you suggest going water cooled?
edsautorepair if you do aluminum 1/4” thick ... you can start thinking about water cooling. If you do A LOT of 1/4”
Aluminum or you do thicker than 1/4” ( even if it is “not much”) in my opinion you should have a water cooler ... 600 amp peak pulse is super hot - it will fry stuff fast and there is nowhere for the heat to go....
If you weld cored wires or regular mild steel no pulse air cooled is fine.
Anything pulsed even stainless, mild steel and of cause aluminum over a couple minutes at a time .... you should start thinking about water cooling ....
What are you planing on doing with the machine?
A very sophisticated machine. I like it and want it.
10:4 littleAl cant have mine .... i am not getting rid of it - ever
10:4 littleAl maybe they have a black Friday sale ...! I dont know ....
Its Clear that you have a good review on HTP since they pay you for the good review
thanks mate iam from Indonesian. thanks for sharing the knowledge.
Hallo, sprichst du Deutsch?
natuerlich ! guck dir mein alumiunm duck boat video an .... is 100% auf deutsch
@@ZILAwelds ich habe ein paar fragen, die ich lieber per Email schreiben wollte. Wie kann ich dich am besten erreichen?
John Hatton cl@zila.net