How to Replace Front Lower Ball Joint 2002-2006 Honda CR-V
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
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New Ball Joint from 1AAuto.com 1aau.to/ia/1ASB...
This video shows you how to install a front lower ball joint on your 2002-2006 Honda CR-V. Car and truck suspensions combine a number of moving parts for safe and stable handling. The ball joint is the crucial moving component that ties those parts together. The ball-in-socket joint can wear out and loosen over time. Or, the rubber protective boot can tear, allowing contaminants to seize the joint. Bad ball joints are a common failure point on vehicle inspections because they lead to unsafe driving conditions. Fortunately, they are relatively easy to replace with the right know-how.
This process should be similar on the following vehicles:
2002 Honda CR-V
2003 Honda CR-V
2004 Honda CR-V
2005 Honda CR-V
2006 Honda CR-V
Tools you will need:
• Impact Screwdriver 1aau.to/ob/1AXA...
• Phillips Head Screwdriver 1aau.to/od/1AXA...
• 19mm Wrench 1aau.to/of/1AXA...
• 10mm Socket 1aau.to/oe/1AXA...
• 17mm Socket 1aau.to/of/1AXA...
• 19mm Socket 1aau.to/oh/1AXA...
• 22mm Socket 1aau.to/oc/1AXA...
• 36mm 12-point socket
• Ball Joint Press
• Brake Caliper Hanger 1aau.to/ob/1AXA...
• Cutoff Wheel 1aau.to/oa/1AXA...
• Pickle Fork
• Ratchet 1aau.to/od/1AXA...
• Socket Extensions 1aau.to/of/1AXA...
• Torque Wrench 1aau.to/oh/1AXA...
• Copper Anti-Seize
• Liquid Thread Locker
• Hammer 1aau.to/of/1AXA...
• Pick 1aau.to/ob/1AXA...
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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While TRQ strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. TRQ is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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Solid vid. I love how every single one of these press tools says to not use impact and nobody listens including me
This is one of the best instructional video I have watched…..
Brilliant this is the best one I’ve seen for this job you gave every nut size every torque value and even how to correctly separate the ABS connector well done much appreciated.
You forgot to add red locktite to the lugnuts and the ball joint...
Great write-up, but. Please. Stop the locktite madness. 😊
Absolutely one of the Best videos on this job; concise and to the point!!
Best video of its kind. Thanks!
Very good and clear video, also with torque specs etc. *thanks!
Super helpful thank you for everything!
Whoops the ABS does NOT go under the brake hose as stated. You could have more light on the abs part. Altogether an excellent video and I have my ball joint in Thanks!
Why didn't you install the safety ring on the ball joint
Presente cordial saludo desde Navoyork Sonora México
Good vid. Fairly detailed. Let me say, I don't know which area of the country does this, but they say, " go ahead , and" before almost everything, so annoying. Anyone know , which place that is ? Anyone wanna Count how many times he says go ahead , and..????
Also some info, for some of the people asking:
The clip, a bunch of people mentioned, is not really necessary on a pressed fit. It is used more for sloppy fit, aka damaged spindle/knuckles, you can lightly sand the hole where the ball joint goes in. I stress lightly, sand. Do NOT remove too much metal. You are basically trying to smooth out imperfections or damage, but because you may change the fit by doing that, the c clip/safety ring is then a secondary safety to secure the pressed fit. Again that's not proper, just a cheapo, jury rigged way. Lastly , you don't have to cut the stud off the old ball joint to remove it. If you have the proper ball joint press tool , it will have cups and spacers to remove , and also to install ball joints. No cutting.
is it necessary to get an alignment after doing this job?
He left out the most aggravating and annoying part. The snap rings. Currently pulling my hair out trying to get mine in
Soooo professional. Thx a lot for the share GBU
+Amateur's Released Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
This ball joint don't need a security ring?
That was all so good until he twitted the cotter pin with his snips 😂😂😂😂
What happened to the snap ring
Do I have to cut the joint with an angle grinder? Is this the only way to remove it?
Thought there was a pin that secure the ball joint
Sooo what do you do if you put a tug on the axel?
Grear video
Whatever happened to the snap ring?
No snap rings now
@@camerontanner6507 that's not true in the slightest bit.
I just bought a set. They came with snap rings
wo， very detail，helpful to me
Recently just did a full passenger side repair due to the ball joint destruction… but im trying to figure out why i couldnt get the lock ring on line i fully pressed it flush but there was bo gave for the snap ring? Is it a must of just recommended
I have an 04 CRV. My ball joint press cup for the ball joint hits the hub and wants to drive the joint in crooked. Did you cut your cup? Do you have some special cup?
Cool trick thanks
For anyone who gets this far down in the commons, please note that every single one of his torque measurements will be incorrect. He did not use the torque wrench correctly. You should never use quick, jerking motions with a torque wrench; proper torquing requires that the bolt is turning at the time that it clicks or beeps at you. A smooth, steady rotation is necessary. This is the proper way to torque a fastener.
It should also be noted that torque measurements are given “wet” or “dry”; wet indicates a specified lubricant or thread locker, dryindicates just the opposite, a complete absence of any type of fluid on the threads. Therefore, the torque measurements on the strut bolts and the axle nut are completely off, and likely way over torqued, as they are given as dry specifications, but torque was applied to these bolts in this example wet.
From what I saw, every single one of those fasteners was already over torqued, as the wrench immediately released as soon as pressure was applied. If this occurs, simply back off the fastener a bit and reapply slow, smooth motion until it clicks or beeps.
Wheres the adapters on the tool list?
is it will make noise when the joint is broken? waiting for your feedback.ths due
your English is a little bad its hard to tell what you are asking
If in Los Angeles, can you work on my CRV? :)
☘️🍀⭐🌟👍