Nico Pelorson - Soudain Seul (8C+/9A) 2nd ascent - Full story
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2024
- 2nd ascent of Soudain Seul (aka Big Island assis) by Nico Pelorson, first climbed by Simon Lorenzi a few months ago. Simon proposed 9A, and Nico suggested a downgrade to 8C+. Before their ascents, the boulder had been tried by a lot of strong climbers, including Jimmy Webb and Jan Hojer. Either 8C+ or 9A, this is for sure one of the hardest boulders in the world.
Please activate subtitles
Video by Arkose climbing team
I'm at loss for words, this was such an awesome video thanks for sharing to everyone involved!
(P.s for non-french-speaking people, turn on subtitles)
Still waiting for you Emil, hopefully the next season? ;)
@@alcupone6462 Emil is unfortunately allergic to knee-bars; this boulder could be the antidote!
@@pinchomaniac2643 Emil and Thor team send, EZ.
Time to send Bro! Let the motivation take you to the top!!!!
Lol thanks for sharing your RUclips expertise! There were a few puzzling moments for me even with subtitles, 4:16 and 12:00 for example
I was dying to see this boulder!!! Daniel's 9A ROSW next please!!! The people are hungryyy
Sooo hungryy
Sooooooooooo hungry
I love that the first person he calls after completing Big Island is his mother. And she suggests that it should be 9A lol
Actually he tells his mom there is NO way that it could be a 9a
@@adesgreesdulou Yup! But that suggests his mom was saying it was 9A lol
I clicked so fast it could be considered finger training
wow, did not see that freestyle coming
I watched nearly the entire video without understanding anything not realizing there where subtitles 😂
These French folks are so calm and dedicated. Big love from french Canada ! PS the rap is insane.
Ta mèèèreeeee!! Wow respect, insane dedication. Book or not, 9a or not (grading ffs, it’s getting me annoyed), doesn’t really matter imo, I found this to be a great achievement. Truly a beautiful representation what I think climbing is really about, pushing oneselves limit, no matter who you are or what your level is, what rock you’re climbing on. Not quitting the game is the game, respect and peace
Opinions vary
@@Snowbound2643 ye ofc, that’s why I said imo
@@TimondeNood I just dont like how grades are becoming softer
@@Snowbound2643 I think people are getting stronger more than grades are getting softer
@@joshbrown4662 why do you think that?
He forgot to say, "I am the master of my own universe," while topping out
"I'm the master of my own world. I control my own knife."
Seriously, everyone go watch Dave Graham climb The Island on Vimeo. Its amazing and makes you love Dave Graham
@@kevind.3389 I could have sworn Dave did the FA of the stand...
@@jlehm There's quite a story behind this one...
If I remember correctly DG opened it in a different way by starting 1-2 moves in from the stand start by 'sitting' on the big stone underneath the boulder. This version is known as 'The Island'.
Later, 'The Big Island' was opened by starting from the stand start position a bit lower.
@@jlehm He did. He did the FA of the Island. But The Big Island starts slightly different. He started with LH in compression and RH on the crimp rail. The Big Island starts matched on the crimp rail.
Good memory guys. Thanks for the info. I knew I wasn’t crazy, just couldn’t remember the specifics. 👍👍
"The Island is like a whole mindstate and way of being and way of thinking and stuff like that and that's pretty much just the theoretical device we use to not go down being categorized as insane... you know what I'm saying?" - Dave Graham
I understand the book ‘debate’ I really do but I’m here to say how impressive the dedication to this climb was. I always enjoy the longer videos 👌🏻...I didn’t hear one ‘dude’ though 😢
Happy Nico is best Nico, so wholesome i love him
Vraiment incroyable! Love the climbing, the rap, the training, the french and, damn, calling his mother first! Great humility in suggesting a downgrade. Complete respect!
The flow and precision at the send is insane...
l'humilité du réel haut niveau !
Please keep making content like this! Videos that are personal, showing the journey, the training, the emotions, and really connect the view to the experience.
Beautiful climb!
God, I miss Font. Haven't been there in over a year because of the pandemic, can't wait for borders to open again. Hopefully soon while temperatures are still good...
Incredibly precise climbing
Precise, indeed!
Looking forward to more ascents to see if this really could be another V17
It won’t sadly
Jimmy needed
Ça c'est un joli film.
J'ai kiffé de malade
P. S: Dave Graham, legend.
Awesome so see some French beasts on this channel! Bien joué Nico, solide le gars, bravo à toi
Why does the Boulder sound so beautiful when you are climbing it? Also your motivation as to why you enjoy climbing is so real and on point!
boulders don't close
Magnifique vidéo. Un super gars. Et le slam: au top!
I love how carefree Nico is, just climbing and smiling, and I loved the rap bit that was included!!!
What a beautiful and complex line.
He must have try this boulder so many times if some of the footholds look so smiry, like some 6 fb footholds wich use by everyone.
So if it took 2 years dedicated training to complete this boulder, why downgrade it to 8C+ 🙂very well done!!
Amazing boulder! But why not bring to light the book thing? The video show us the whole process, wich is amazing, but I think it would have been interesting if the climber had talked about it
you see it when he puts the kneepad on
I thought it was the first ascentionist Simon Lorenzi who used the book
@@VDB420 Both used a book under the kneepad as far as I’m aware.
@@Mike-oz4cv ah okay
So sick! Love how stoked he was at the end
Kinda dissapointed the send footage doesn't include the start!
Great effort! A little shame that he's such a notorious sandbagger. Took him 2 years, trains especially for it, sets up replica in the gym. After he has done it says it's 8C+ and everbody who will put in a little effort in could do it. 😂
haha surely not everybody...
But I have to say I was expecting the downgrade. First of all 8A+ into 8C (some people think 8B+) doesn't really add up to 9A. Of course I don't have an opinion on the actual grades and I certainly will not climb these grades ever, but just saying
@@HatoriHanzo1 Yeah sure I also have no clue about these grades 😅 But fact is that some really strong guys tried it over some time and the (strong) first ascentionist suggests 9A. This paired with the guys attitude as mentioned in my post makes me wonder.🤔😉
@@winedineclimb I guess he is realistic... It's not about unlocking a new move, it's more about having the stamina to link the two part-- So with practice, if you can climb a 8c you're supposed to send it... A new grade implies new skills imo !
@@winedineclimb Other strong climbers have projected it, but not for long. Jimmy Webb and Jan Hojer projected it on trips to Fontainbleau, but they never seriously devoted weeks to it and were always in Font to climb other things. Jan Hojer actually got decently close to sending it in 2017, linking most of the moves. There is a lot of speculation that The Big Island is soft / even considered 8B+, so I think proposing hard 8C+ doesn't seem so far fetched.
@@jacobkaye6827 I think some people will be skeptical of the 8C+ grade seeing as how other 8C+ problems (ie sleepwalker and hypnotize minds) have been sent in far fewer sessions. Obviously this doesn't mean that much since we don't have the same climbers trying this problem but its enough to be slightly questionable of the grade. Doesn't really matter though since we'll see how other climbers perform on this problem in the future.
Damn the after send reactions are insane🔥🔥
Hey Nico, sick send. In American english we have this word haters. They didnt wanna see you do it bro and now theyre mad. Good for you.
*side eyes everyone whining about the book*
Book.... could be the hardest aid route I have ever seen.
What a mad lad !
Bien joué !
I like the edit! Great vid, great ascent!
Respect technique et humilité j'adore.
the dedication...
Lmao when he tops out according to the subtitles he screams "your mother!". These french guys wow they really bring it.
Why is he sitting next to a chair with a potted plant on it?
It's his publicist, feeding him what to say. It's common for interviews like this, but usually the publicist is out of frame.
he estado esperando para ver este video....
Song name playing during the penultimate climb and after the climb
Que chido video ¡! Muy motivador para seguir esforzándose en tu camino como escalador. Cool video
Great vid, great achievement! Thanks!
Anyone know what pants those are in the last ascent shot?
Almost as good as a Keenan Takahashi edit ;)
"Aahhh, your mother!" And he says the first thing he thought of was his mom...
Brother?
mother earth:"bruhh wut did i do?"
So the grade is 9a or 8c+ ?
absurdly wired, great video and send!
Has the hype of climbing died down yet? I wanna get back into it....
bravo magnifique vidéo !
Nice send, cool line and moves
When’s he droppin that album?
Top effort, machine
so sick, such commitment
Trop bon le rap merci pour ce grand moment
Awesome Video!!!!
Incredible. What is he wearing on his wrists?
Tape ;)
Sehr beeindruckend
4:24 someone tries "Big Conviction" on the right? 🙂
That was quick ! Only 2 years of your life !
Magnifique indeed!!
Here for the guidebook in the kneepad comments
Just amazing!!
Increíble!!pepino de los grandes!
actually we can say that whoever its filming its not a professional cameramen, next time try to record the hands of the climber when hes catching the "holds".
By the way, beautiful line, perfect and brutal climbing.
Gratuliere
Charles Albert diss !?!?
Book or not, It's the kneepad first and foremost that made both ascents possible. What would be interesting is not to see an ascent without the aid of a book, but an ascent without the aid of a kneepad.
What book? And what are you saying, that it's a pity that people use kneepads? In that case many routes would be almost impossible to climb. Is that what you wish?
@@markusosanen4525 both ascensionists put a book under the kneepad to artificially extend the length of their leg, making the kneebars possible.
Clearly not, I sometimes use one myself. I'm curious about what's possible and what's not.
@@Ever3lackSky Oh, i missed that one, sorry!
Can anyone tell me the music in 13:40 please!!!?!?!
Deep Blue Sea
Sivan Talmor;Yehezkel Raz
Album
Vol. 1 - Underwater Fantasies
@@DoomsSDay49 thank you!!
Le "ta mere" il m'a tué😂
This is for sure hardest kneepad-book-climb in the world.
Mad props nico !
fucking crazy men, i love that lasts insane moves.
une tendance a surexprimer!
magnificant!
Well deserved ✌️
wtf the rap jajajaja and wtf the book on the knee pad?????? PLEASE lets talk about itt
Daaaamn my man spitting FIRE! Studio big island > eminem for sure!!!
Wow 🙌 AAAh!! YOUR MOTHER!!! 😂😂😂🙌 amazing video
Up there in the pantheon of great topouts with Ethan Pringle on Jumpo Love.
"your mother"
Bravo Nico ;) !!!
I really love that often the very best climbers are the dorkiest bunch of geeks ever... Ondra bein No.1 obviously. "The geek shall inherit the Earth"- (the bible or something) XXx
Awesome ascent but imo, they both made a mistake by deciding to put a book ("Soudain seul") under the kneepad... I can only see it as aid climbing and it takes away a big part of the accomplishement. This boulder is such a legend in the forest, it deserve a better ascent, without a book to make your shin taller
I'm not taking sides here, but wanna mention that there are kneepads of different thickness. Would you see the thicker kneepads as aid and only accept the thinner kneepads?
What if he wouldn't have used an existing kneepad but had made one for himself of the thickness he feels most comfortable with?
yeah why didnt they mension it in the video. If they think its no problem, why not say anything about it.
Bullshit. If you want to scream aid, then you should ask him to remove the kneepad as a whole. The rubber on the pad helps a ton with friction (the climber mentions it). He could have had a slightly thicker kneepad made for him and no one would complain.
@@diereide3467 Jeez, they talk about him using a kneepad to get better friction otherwise he slips. They also film the guy putting the book under the knee pad at 6:12 ans the name of the problem is the name of the book they used. What more do you want
truee
I don’t speak French, but I’m pretty sure he says at the end I finally get to eat food again😂
hahaha la rocaina, completely high after bouldering. :D
Interesting fact: Lorenzi whl can do every move on Alphane, altough he could not repeat it yet, said big island assis may be a bit harder, so this problem being a 9A is still not impossible ?
I guess we all need a 9A climber to actually repeat another of the 9A available to have some comparison points ! But the bouldering top level sure is interesting af these last few years, crazy line just cracked open
gainsbourg parce que, belle ref belle grimpe
la classe !
c'est trop bien
Nice vid but real talk how in the hell you gonna have your boy doing the hardest send of his life and you chop off his hands on the send vid? Higher standards for filming climbing at this level should be upheld
Here for the rap
Funny fella
Ill never understand how french is a love language. Its like being bludgeoned in the ears for 17minutes. That being said, amazing send!!! 😁👍
Bravo mec !! Par contre arrête la musique :)
2:31 RIP le téléphone
L'éthique de chacun... Une genouillère.... Si ça tient pas tu fais pas et puis c'est tout...🤯🧗
excellent dialed moves but didn't like the rap part :D
Awesome send, but does anyone else think that it's kind of whack for a guy to downgrade a climb after spending two years projecting it and then eventually sending it with a book under his kneepad?
le P en action ⚔️😈🥷