I've always had good luck with the 0.883 rule. Inseam x 0.883 = crank to saddle top. I have the whole family fleet setup this way and everybody rides relatively comfortable. Now if only I can figure out my wrist pain issues on my endurance roadie!
I am amazed that the video didn't suggest the classic rule of thumb guide and having scrolled through dozens of comments nobody appears to have mentioned it. Sit on the bike (lean against a wall if necessary or get someone to hold you upright. Line up the right crank with the line of the seat tube, place the heel of your right foot on the pedal. The saddle height should mean that your right leg now feels fully extended. Lock the saddle in position. Now when you pedal with the ball of your foot over the pedal axle your legs should feel slightly bent at the knee without any rocking in your hips. I have used this method for over 40 years and it's a very good starting point.
That's exactly what I used to do when I was a very keeen cyclist. Now, as a vet of 74 I bought an electric bike today (Fiido C21) so waiting for delivery. The saddle height will be the first thing I do on set up - oh, and I'll be towing two dogs in a trailer. How times have changed!
.....and climb hills... we've got lots of 'em here in Northern Maine... best way to do it is out of the saddle... saves a lot of wear & tear on those knees, too.
Honestly, great video. When I listened to you describing symptoms of having your saddle too high it occurred to me that a LOT of them applied to me so I took a few moments to double check my saddle before my morning ride. What a difference. I felt so much better, especially at the end of the ride. It wouldn't have even occurred to me to check it if not for the video describing the symptoms. Thanks a bunch!
When I used to commute cycling in London, in the morning I was always bumping into this guy riding a fixed gear chrome specialized, he had the seat sooooo high he’s entire body was rocking left to right to reach the pedals. He clearly couldn’t stop at the traffic lights first cause of the fixed gear and second he just couldn’t put his feet on the ground
The rocking was the problem, not the fact that he couldn't sit and simultaneously put his feet on the ground! It's a "saddle", not a "chair": stand up, get your lazy arse off the saddle, and put your feet on the ground! Set properly, you're legs should be near (though not at) full extension on the pedals so, set properly, no you won't be able to sit on the saddle and touch the ground. That's not how it works.
@@wilfdarr I agree i can't touch the ground while "sitting" so yeah you need to break, drop the front chainring, unclip from the pedal and get off the saddle; but yeah i guess for some it's tooo much trouble, you ruin the momentum (i have been told once)
@@marianneoelund2940 Fixies aren't very common as commuters in Canada because of the distances involved: only the downtown core couriers use them. The rest of us either use flats or play the clip in clip out game: I have both depending on the requirements of the day.
I've typically sat on my seat and fully extended my leg to see how high the saddle needs to be but measure with your heel. That way when you clip in, you have a slight bend to your leg. Feels decent for the most part. Will be looking for any of those too high or too low signs on my next ride. Thanks guys!
@@PowerSenpai yes it is! Still, this method is really good. Unless, you have ginormous feet and you ride with your heels slightly up (which is fine, but never too much), it won't affect this ball park method. The same goes for small feet. Unless you have robert wadlau's feet or those of a newborn the method fails. I've noticed that I need to set my saddle hight about 0.5-1 cm lower than this ball park measurement because I often ride with my heel down and I've got small feet. Buth other than that, it is comfortable to ride! Just slightly not good enough
I just purchased a used Masi road bike from a gentleman, and the seat post came with numbered markings on the back of it. It’s so much easier to gauge the hight of my saddle now as opposed to the old bike.
I used to ride a bike with the seat being too low. I didn't realize this as I didn't know better. Not only all my friends were much faster than me, I always had horrible butt pain, even after only 20km. Few years ago, I went onto a long trip where we planned about 60km a day for a week. I took the time on the first day, to set up the seat properly, based on GCN video, not only I was flying fast, I had absolutely no pain whatsoever. Thanks guys, amazing content 😁😁
I find there's about a 1 cm range where your saddle height is "acceptable", and that for me personally, I prefer the lower part of that range. Reason being that I find it easier to maintain an aero position, as there's slightly less bend in the back. I find you also have to adjust the seat angle whenever you adjust the height if you ride aero... the higher the seat, the more down-slope in the angle.
If you are using a carbon seatpost, please use carbon grip paste. I thought I was going insane that my post was too low. It turned out it had slipped a few millimeters over a year of riding.
I ran with my seat to high for ages, until i finally hit a really bad pedal stroke where my knee totally locked out while i was adjusting, and the next pedal stroke put the torque through my knee, pushing the joint the wrong way back. I can still feel that knee after a long ride or hard exercise, maybe 3 years later
Don’t forget to raise your saddle if you move it forwards as well. I bumped my saddle up about a centimeter & it feels so much better power wise. I couldn’t even tell that my saddle was too low but I felt like I had more power to give. Hip angle matters!
When I started riding in my early teens I had my saddle as high as I could & my bars as low as possible. But when I joined a club I was advised to alter it, gradually as I've gotten older my saddle height has come down by about 2 inches! I based it on the Hinault/Gensling(?) method, seems OK to me now, in my 50 years of being a cyclist.
It's difficult not to let ego get in the way and set your bike up as aggressively as humanly possible, but we all eventually realised it's better to actually be able to reach the pedals
Hey Guys. Great video. I started riding about 1 yr ago and everything I have learned about my road bike was from watching your videos. The last video I watched was from Si about: "How To Brake Like A Pro". So informative. Thanks guys. Please continue to put out excellent videos.
I've tried all the methods, Hinault's .885 of inseam, Lemond's .883, Lance's 5mm gap between heel and pedal....had about 5 bike fits... all of these always put me too high by about 1cm . The only one that works for me is the old skool "heel on pedal and pedal backwards without hips rocking but with legs straight". Most people say this is too low but works great for me and always puts me within about 3mm of a height that feels right. Any height that "needs some time to get used to" (what, every time you go for a month without riding?) must be too high. I'd also say beware of setting saddle height on a home trainer. All that matters is how you feel on the road. The first symptom of a "too high saddle" is a sense of uneven-ness when pedalling, usually saddle pain or sores on the left side and outside of left knee pain. If you want to get deeper into this then google Steve Hogg RIght SIde Bias.
Heel on pedal works for me as well but it can depend on your shoe size and where you place the cleats. I have fairly small feet and cleats quite far back so I do the heel on pedal method without shoes on.
Do videos built on the old videos and and have the standing question. " was they better before and had right?" Sorry that was two question in one😄. You can follow that up by a voting in your app.
Hank talking about getting the saddle height right so that he can access all the power, then proceeds to ride out the of the saddle to get all that power. Classic
Every stroke, while seated, is at optimum muscle extension for maximum efficiency at best saddle height. The short term extra force by standing is--short term. He won't stand forever.
I had a bike fit about 6 months ago. At first it felt a little odd and uncomfortable, and I was considering moving the saddle height, but changed my mind when I remembered how much the fit cost. After a couple of weeks I was used to the new feel and after about month was afraid to move anything on the bike. I'm more comfortable than I've ever been, and I can ride longer. At the end of a ride I still feel great - not exhausted or in pain. Get the bike fit, but give it a little time to get used to it.
Sometimes it is just down to personal preference and build of the rider's body. I have short muscles, to have the access to the full potential in terms of power I need to have it a little bit lower than most folks would prefer. Trial&Error and one visit in the professional bike fit studio solved my problems. I managed to get the saddle height correctly myself but not the saddle tilt and offset, I had too much weight forward and my hands were getting numb during long rides. Bike fitter spotted the mistake right away, couple of tweaks in offset/tilt and handlebars solved the problem permanently. The difference is well worth it.
So as you age, or have a lumbar fusion, the stiffness of the lower back means that the hips have to rock a bit. Looking at knee angle and the ability to drop the heel become crucial.
Total casual cyclist here. I hadn't realised my seat had slipped down low (needed tightening) and was wondering why it was more effort than usual to cycle AND that it was uncomfortable over the odd bumpy paving on my commute. Perhaps someone understands the physics to this: after fixing the height, it seemed my whole body absorbed much more of the impact from rough surfaces. Like it more evenly distributed it. Why is that?
Coming from a cat2 in the day, & back in the day one of 250 certificate mechanic in the"- 80' sting line from knee to pedal center axis- Aline the knee with the c/L of the pedal
Rode with my saddle to low for years because too high seemed very bad. Even racing. The big problem with being too low is that your quads never disengage. Developed a chronic hip flexor problem. My quads were basically cramped all the time. Real shame, never enjoyed my maximum potential. Still riding, now have perfect position and my quads are totally loose. Be careful with your position!
Incredibly convenient video! I am a super tall cyclist in Japan and I've been using a modified hybrid bicycle to accommodate my long legs. I always worry that my saddle height is too low so I usually tend to raise the saddle height so I can stretch out my legs and knees while I ride, however I definitely will ask a fellow cyclist in town to monitor my back while I ride to see if my thighs are swaying a bit too much. Thank you GCN!
Flexibility and core strength hardly ever seem to be mentioned. If you have poor capability in both areas you'll struggle to get an optimum position both in terms of power and comfort. If you're interested in cycling more than just casually then you need to make sure you've got good flexibility and core strength (which is worth having for its own sake).
Flexibility and core strength do make it easier to hold different positions on the bike, try one of our yoga sessions for cyclists ruclips.net/video/vjS68HwVtOY/видео.html
I agree, the proper saddle position fitting, height, tilt and the fore/aft position, is not best determined in a static position. That setting is just the start. A second experienced rider's observation of another rider on a flat road, up a hill, down a hill and around corners can help find the magic saddle position. In my experience the riders I fit complain and want to know why their cheek muscles ache after the fitting. The cheek muscles, on their face, hurt because they are smiling the whole time they ride their properly fitted bicycle.
You may even want slightly different heights for different things. At the extreme end, you may want it a bit higher for example, for a hill climb or short road bike TT, but a bit lower for Ulta distance. And if you get a fit and are advised to change the height of your seat, maybe move it there in stages over a few weeks, a quick change might cause a niggle whilst you get used to it.
Another issue is saddle sores. I was getting these on longer rides / higher training schedule but after lowering saddle only 2mm I no longer get them. No other change at all.
I fit myself for years, raced and did okay. A cycle shop owner (Level 3 coach) said he'd give me a free bike fit in exchange for positive comments about his work. I came out of there withy saddle 3cm higher and he took off my 5 mil of shims on one shoe, and jammed my saddle back. I didn't get a km out his door before I stopped and put it all back again. Another fit some years later was no good either the saddle went up too high again. Hinault/LeMond method of inseam X .883, is too high for me too, I get the best results using the old style heel on the pedal, plus add a couple of mil. The saddle height now compared to LeMond is 2cm lower, but it's comfy, I never have knee or low back issues, my hands don't get numb and I ride fast and can climb... Sometimes you have to rely on instincts and feel, all I'm saying
I like my saddle to be high enough that when I fully extend my leg and push with the ball of my foot, my butt just barely comes off the saddle. That has seemed to work well for me and I experience no saddle soreness or injuries. I'm a bike courier as well.
What I notice from riding behind people is that most lean to one side. For some, it starts at the hips. Others have curved backs. Could be bone length/shape, could be tendon/ligament flexibility, could be muscle imbalance.
Actually, it is to the Bottom Bracket. Then if you change crank length, you adjust from there. The Gold standard, is the crank level and where your knee point is above the center of the pedal spindle and your knee is at 30 degrees with the crank arm in line with the seat tube. I'm an oddball as I can't get left/right fully in these specifications. What you don't want it squatting or knee lockout.
My preferred, most comfortable and efficient saddle height and the one that's led to the fewest injuries and pain is a bit higher than the ones that those measure this and multiply by that formulas call for, which when I follow them make for an uncomfortable and inefficient saddle height that's tended to cause knee pain and injury and just not feel right. In the position that feels best for me I end up with my knees slightly bent at their most extended position, but never fully extended. There's no hard and fast rule. Those are just starting points and rough estimators.
Best method is to lower it then keep raising it until the stroke becomes choppy. Don't just stop raising it when it feels "OK" as that might well be too low. If you look at cycling videos, crits, etc., you can see when people straighten their leg when coasting, the heel is generally either even with the toe, or slightly elevated. That is a decent thing to keep in mind too, that if you can clip in and still massively drop your heel with your leg fully extended, you might well be too low.
Remember to also measure the distance form the seat top to the crank arm pedal hole center or edge for when you get a new bike with a different crank length. If you use the seat to center of the BB it could be off a cm or 2.
It's taken me almost a year to dial in a good fit on my new bike, like the boys say, make a change, then ride it a while to see how it feels. Better to be a little too low than too high. Most people go too high to start. Pop it on a turbo and have someone look at you on that, they'll soon see if you're displaying anything odd.
Got any tips for mitigating a sore neck from riding? I am trying desperately to get back in the saddle and as I expected, any ride over 30 minutes results in sore neck muscles and the longer it goes on the harder it is to keep my head up. So any ideas? Eventually it will actually get easier with longer rides over a 6 month period.
Nearing the end of summer I am lowering the saddle of my bike to an inefficient low position, and ride high gears. This way I train my quads for iceskating. ... I must say that last year I haven't, sadly winter has become a gloomy gray misery in my country, it has been ages that I haven't skated on decent ice 😟😟
Funny I had people tell me that my saddle was too high because I rocked back and forth. Got a professional fitting and found out my saddle was too low. Raised the saddle, moved it slightly forward and went with a shorter stem. Bike fits like a glove. Things are not always as they seem, and if I took your advice it would have made things worse.
I've only been cycling a year, but found this 'rule of thumb' calculation useful to get close to a comfortable saddle height (before minor adjustments). Leg Inseam in mm x 0.883 = recommended saddle height (crank centre to saddle).
You can score your carbon seat post without causing any problems. It doesn't take much pressure to score something and you are only going through the paint or clear coat. More pressure than that isn't needed. It is pretty hard to damage the fibers unless you are mistaking scoring with cutting. The only thing is that I wouldn't score until you have found your ideal saddle height so you you have a repeatable setting if you ever need to travel with your bike, etc.
@@alpsalish I'm glad that on my Giant Defy they provided a seat post with clear, numbered millimeter markings on the front, so I just make a note (mentally and with a photograph) of where the post is set.
@@tedl7538 That is pretty sweet! Does the defy use endurance geo? I'm looking at getting a new bike and I feel like Giant gives you a whole lot of bike for the money. That isn't to say Giant isn't a premium brand, they are ;-)
@@henseleric I guess it depends how dialed you are. I work in composites and have no problem scribing. I don't replace my pedal system often anymore nor do I swap shoes once I've found something that fits well. Largely replacement of components.
Had to say good bye to some neck and knee pain when I followed some instructions for how high my saddle should be. So yep saddle height and position is really important.
Seems like you should measure from saddle to pedal, so you can take into account different crank arm lengths one might find on different bikes, particularly a hire bike
Sub'd :) I have to run my saddle low due to knee cap injury. Tried to raise it by just 10mm and the pain returned. 5mm and it seemed ok. It's wrong I know, but I have to live with it.
Catering to injury is the exception. You have to do what you have to do. Same for me. My saddle should be a bit higher but when i put it up just a few mm from where it is i get i.t band issues. I put it back down and it goes away so that's what o go with. Stretching is very important for me for that issue.
Definitely -1 for scoring the seat post, as noted. But there's nothing that tells you how to find the right height, other than vague reference to a bike fitter or having a friend ride behind you to tell you the symptoms you just introduced are visible. The comments have some good actionable suggestions…makes me wonder if the presenters were just asking everyone to do their homework.
I injured myself once for having the seat too high: pulled a muscle by the knee. Other time I injured myself, I think, for having the seat a bit too low. I developed a tendinitis on my knee.
When measuring my saddle height I measure from the peddle spindle where it threads into the crank arm at the bottom of the stroke so that the height would be the same on any bike regardless of the crank arm length.
Measurement should be taken from the top of the pedal not BB center since different length cranks and pedal stack height can change your effective saddle height.
Usually it takes me an absolutely age to get my saddle height feeling just right, but on my newest bike (Giant TCR Adv), for some reason I got it nailed pretty much on my second try, and I've been happy with it since. Maybe I should go buy a lottery ticket? 😃
This was one very informative video. Specially for me, because I just got my first cleats and my hips are moving too much or I feel like it’s too low on the others. I have 3 bikes and I feel like I’m having issues with the right saddle height. I’ve tried watching different videos on how to set the height myself, but I think I might have to end up paying a pro to set me up and then save the measurements to set my other bikes.
There are some really good calculators online. Use a level pull into your crotch uncomfortably bare foot. Make the level level and plug in your inseam measurement. After setting your seat hight then adjust the forward and back using a plum bob dropped off the front of the knee with the pedals horizontal. Goal is move the seat so the center of the plumb is center of the pedal. Before that center your cleat with the middle of your big toe joint. Tada great bike fit. Get a helper makes it way easier.
It's a common practice here in my country to have a high saddle height, I think for them it looks good. I've seen a lot of young riders rocking their hips while pedaling, they won't listen when you tell them. Usually, it's the high saddle, slammed stem combo.
we have a large frame trend. even branded sellers do it poor customers. A 4'11" boy rides a 24 inch frame just cause he can. No wonder we opt to walk and drive cars more.
Not necessarily for looks. I was one of them. About 4 cm too high. Team members would tell me, and we'd laugh about it...I should've listened. Raced all those years with the horrible disadvantage. Even my training buddies said my terrible rocking was a "style"...Now, I notice many riders with high saddle heights, but it's very hard to tell them. They (like me back then) think the correct saddle height is the one that allows maximum force (like a leg press machine). Power is not force.
My seatpost, made from aluminium is stuck in the (carbon)frame - any ideas so get it out? Must be some kind of Korrosion over the Time. I did read aluminium oxide makes the diameter grow - I should have used some proper paste to prevent this 🙄
You can injure yourself from a too low saddle. a "bike fitter" set my saddle way too low and it caused a fatpad impingement in my knee. I was unable to ride for almost a year and my knee has never been the same.
For me, it's my wrists that are the problem. I lowered the saddle height but also raised the handlebars which helped a bit. I do lose some power, but it's worth being in less pain when I ride.
@@R0b3ert , yea, agreed. I did change that as well and it also helped. Have you had any experience with changing the stem to a bigger angle? I am getting a new bike in the next couple of weeks and they are suggesting moving from the 7 degree stem that comes with the bike to 17 degrees.
sadly the frame of my bike is too big, wheels too, 29". im 167cm high, i think a 26 inch wheels bike would be alot better for me. the bike is a gift, a quite expansive one with my standards.
No no no, don't SCORE the seat post. That'll cause a stress point which could lead to failure over time. How do you cut a paneof glass? Score the surface then flex it across the score line. Think of a crisp packet. They are very strong, you can pull and tug at it in all directions until you put a tiny nick in it, then it'll tear almost as easily as a tissue.
In 1974 I first saw the 1.09 method for seat height adj. Back against a wall, feet 6" apart (barefoot), slip LP album cover - or framing square - between legs, snug in the crotch, mark wall. Multiply resultant wall measurement by 1.09 - Voila' Knee pain is most often due to fore/aft seat adjustment. If you feel pain stop immediately and re-adjust saddle.
If using Look keo type road pedals, do any seasoned road riders gauge leg extension by having legs fully extended with level heels on the top of pedals when back pedaling to 6 O clock ? and even a slight shoe sole gap of a few mm? Btw I like that Pinarello , what sets the Dogma apart from their other road framesets?
I just noticed that my right leg is longer than my left leg, and so my left calves is putting more effort than my right calves. Im still not using clipless pedals, so if i use clipless pedals do i need to put something to extend my left leg reach, and so they will be at equal length?
Have you got any tips on setting up your saddle height correctly? Let us know in the comments below!
I've always had good luck with the 0.883 rule. Inseam x 0.883 = crank to saddle top. I have the whole family fleet setup this way and everybody rides relatively comfortable. Now if only I can figure out my wrist pain issues on my endurance roadie!
After you get the height set, wrap(just one warp) electrical tape around the seat post.
Generally set mine to where my knees are not locked out using the heel (so no toe pointing).
@@KenSmith-bv4si good idea if you have to take the seat off for transit etc.
If your knees are sticking outwards instead of a straight motion while peddling, then it's too low
How about two follow up vids: saddle set back and Saddle angle then perhaps a final one bringing all 3 together?
They need to redesign all bicycle seats. Not healthy for men or women.
How@@drewfeld836
I am amazed that the video didn't suggest the classic rule of thumb guide and having scrolled through dozens of comments nobody appears to have mentioned it. Sit on the bike (lean against a wall if necessary or get someone to hold you upright. Line up the right crank with the line of the seat tube, place the heel of your right foot on the pedal. The saddle height should mean that your right leg now feels fully extended. Lock the saddle in position. Now when you pedal with the ball of your foot over the pedal axle your legs should feel slightly bent at the knee without any rocking in your hips. I have used this method for over 40 years and it's a very good starting point.
That's exactly what I used to do when I was a very keeen cyclist. Now, as a vet of 74 I bought an electric bike today (Fiido C21) so waiting for delivery. The saddle height will be the first thing I do on set up - oh, and I'll be towing two dogs in a trailer. How times have changed!
Let's harness that power from the right seat height by getting out of the saddle to sprint.
That's one way to just avoid the issue entirely
.....and climb hills... we've got lots of 'em here in Northern Maine... best way to do it is out of the saddle... saves a lot of wear & tear on those knees, too.
@@gcn ... LOL 😆
Honestly, great video. When I listened to you describing symptoms of having your saddle too high it occurred to me that a LOT of them applied to me so I took a few moments to double check my saddle before my morning ride. What a difference. I felt so much better, especially at the end of the ride. It wouldn't have even occurred to me to check it if not for the video describing the symptoms. Thanks a bunch!
When I used to commute cycling in London, in the morning I was always bumping into this guy riding a fixed gear chrome specialized, he had the seat sooooo high he’s entire body was rocking left to right to reach the pedals. He clearly couldn’t stop at the traffic lights first cause of the fixed gear and second he just couldn’t put his feet on the ground
The rocking was the problem, not the fact that he couldn't sit and simultaneously put his feet on the ground! It's a "saddle", not a "chair": stand up, get your lazy arse off the saddle, and put your feet on the ground!
Set properly, you're legs should be near (though not at) full extension on the pedals so, set properly, no you won't be able to sit on the saddle and touch the ground. That's not how it works.
@@wilfdarr I agree i can't touch the ground while "sitting" so yeah you need to break, drop the front chainring, unclip from the pedal and get off the saddle; but yeah i guess for some it's tooo much trouble, you ruin the momentum (i have been told once)
You stop a fixed-gear bike by doing a track stand, not by putting a foot on the ground.
@@giovannifacci Ya, I understand, and if that's your style of riding, get flats (I have both, ride both, depending if I'm commuting or committing).
@@marianneoelund2940 Fixies aren't very common as commuters in Canada because of the distances involved: only the downtown core couriers use them. The rest of us either use flats or play the clip in clip out game: I have both depending on the requirements of the day.
I've typically sat on my seat and fully extended my leg to see how high the saddle needs to be but measure with your heel. That way when you clip in, you have a slight bend to your leg. Feels decent for the most part. Will be looking for any of those too high or too low signs on my next ride. Thanks guys!
This same method is covered in another video on the same subject on this channel
@@PowerSenpai yes it is! Still, this method is really good. Unless, you have ginormous feet and you ride with your heels slightly up (which is fine, but never too much), it won't affect this ball park method. The same goes for small feet. Unless you have robert wadlau's feet or those of a newborn the method fails.
I've noticed that I need to set my saddle hight about 0.5-1 cm lower than this ball park measurement because I often ride with my heel down and I've got small feet. Buth other than that, it is comfortable to ride! Just slightly not good enough
@@PowerSenpai I’ve set my saddle following those instructions from the other video
Good tip!
The same method I use the heal test 👍
I just purchased a used Masi road bike from a gentleman, and the seat post came with numbered markings on the back of it. It’s so much easier to gauge the hight of my saddle now as opposed to the old bike.
I used to ride a bike with the seat being too low. I didn't realize this as I didn't know better. Not only all my friends were much faster than me, I always had horrible butt pain, even after only 20km. Few years ago, I went onto a long trip where we planned about 60km a day for a week. I took the time on the first day, to set up the seat properly, based on GCN video, not only I was flying fast, I had absolutely no pain whatsoever. Thanks guys, amazing content 😁😁
Glad you found it useful! It's a small thing that can make a huge difference
How tall in meters is the tall fella and what frame size is his bike?
I find there's about a 1 cm range where your saddle height is "acceptable", and that for me personally, I prefer the lower part of that range. Reason being that I find it easier to maintain an aero position, as there's slightly less bend in the back. I find you also have to adjust the seat angle whenever you adjust the height if you ride aero... the higher the seat, the more down-slope in the angle.
If you are using a carbon seatpost, please use carbon grip paste. I thought I was going insane that my post was too low. It turned out it had slipped a few millimeters over a year of riding.
that's exactly what happened to me on today's ride.
I ran with my seat to high for ages, until i finally hit a really bad pedal stroke where my knee totally locked out while i was adjusting, and the next pedal stroke put the torque through my knee, pushing the joint the wrong way back. I can still feel that knee after a long ride or hard exercise, maybe 3 years later
Ah. Another fear to have. Here's hoping I forget reading this before my next ride!
Don’t forget to raise your saddle if you move it forwards as well. I bumped my saddle up about a centimeter & it feels so much better power wise. I couldn’t even tell that my saddle was too low but I felt like I had more power to give. Hip angle matters!
When I started riding in my early teens I had my saddle as high as I could & my bars as low as possible. But when I joined a club I was advised to alter it, gradually as I've gotten older my saddle height has come down by about 2 inches!
I based it on the Hinault/Gensling(?) method, seems OK to me now, in my 50 years of being a cyclist.
It's difficult not to let ego get in the way and set your bike up as aggressively as humanly possible, but we all eventually realised it's better to actually be able to reach the pedals
Seriously beautiful bikes. Upped my saddle height by a cm. See how it rides over next couple of weeks. Thank you and keep ‘em coming!
Hey Guys. Great video. I started riding about 1 yr ago and everything I have learned about my road bike was from watching your videos. The last video I watched was from Si about: "How To Brake Like A Pro". So informative. Thanks guys. Please continue to put out excellent videos.
I've tried all the methods, Hinault's .885 of inseam, Lemond's .883, Lance's 5mm gap between heel and pedal....had about 5 bike fits... all of these always put me too high by about 1cm . The only one that works for me is the old skool "heel on pedal and pedal backwards without hips rocking but with legs straight". Most people say this is too low but works great for me and always puts me within about 3mm of a height that feels right. Any height that "needs some time to get used to" (what, every time you go for a month without riding?) must be too high. I'd also say beware of setting saddle height on a home trainer. All that matters is how you feel on the road. The first symptom of a "too high saddle" is a sense of uneven-ness when pedalling, usually saddle pain or sores on the left side and outside of left knee pain. If you want to get deeper into this then google Steve Hogg RIght SIde Bias.
Heel on pedal works for me as well but it can depend on your shoe size and where you place the cleats. I have fairly small feet and cleats quite far back so I do the heel on pedal method without shoes on.
I've tried that and for me it's crazy low.
Tip 1: have a pro ride behind you and evaluate? Brilliant!
Yeah this video didn't tell me shit other than "you're doing it wrong, and you may find out in a few weeks or months". Okay then ...
I have seen it before in old GCN video but it was a lot better now! Thanks Hank and Conor!
We thought we'd re-visit a classic... or as the internet will tell you, we've "completely run out of ideas..." either way, we hope it helps!
@@gcn You shall cover more videos as an upgrade. You have the presenters for do that even better and more fun!
Do videos built on the old videos and and have the standing question. " was they better before and had right?" Sorry that was two question in one😄. You can follow that up by a voting in your app.
Hank talking about getting the saddle height right so that he can access all the power, then proceeds to ride out the of the saddle to get all that power. Classic
Lol noticed that too
Exactly, made no sense!
Every stroke, while seated, is at optimum muscle extension for maximum efficiency at best saddle height. The short term extra force by standing is--short term. He won't stand forever.
LOL actually in a road bike low is always better.
I had a professional fitting done. Adjusted everything that needed adjusting on the bike along with my shoe cleats.Best thing I could have done!
How does the new set up feel?
I had a bike fit about 6 months ago. At first it felt a little odd and uncomfortable, and I was considering moving the saddle height, but changed my mind when I remembered how much the fit cost. After a couple of weeks I was used to the new feel and after about month was afraid to move anything on the bike. I'm more comfortable than I've ever been, and I can ride longer. At the end of a ride I still feel great - not exhausted or in pain. Get the bike fit, but give it a little time to get used to it.
Sometimes it is just down to personal preference and build of the rider's body. I have short muscles, to have the access to the full potential in terms of power I need to have it a little bit lower than most folks would prefer. Trial&Error and one visit in the professional bike fit studio solved my problems. I managed to get the saddle height correctly myself but not the saddle tilt and offset, I had too much weight forward and my hands were getting numb during long rides. Bike fitter spotted the mistake right away, couple of tweaks in offset/tilt and handlebars solved the problem permanently. The difference is well worth it.
That opening clip was nutz!😂 At least he got to the grass before laying the bike down.
So as you age, or have a lumbar fusion, the stiffness of the lower back means that the hips have to rock a bit. Looking at knee angle and the ability to drop the heel become crucial.
Total casual cyclist here. I hadn't realised my seat had slipped down low (needed tightening) and was wondering why it was more effort than usual to cycle AND that it was uncomfortable over the odd bumpy paving on my commute. Perhaps someone understands the physics to this: after fixing the height, it seemed my whole body absorbed much more of the impact from rough surfaces. Like it more evenly distributed it. Why is that?
Coming from a cat2 in the day, & back in the day one of 250 certificate mechanic in the"- 80' sting line from knee to pedal center axis- Aline the knee with the c/L of the pedal
Thanks. The tip about placing tape around the seat post is dead on.
Also helps to verify that your seat post has slipped down.
Rode with my saddle to low for years because too high seemed very bad. Even racing. The big problem with being too low is that your quads never disengage. Developed a chronic hip flexor problem. My quads were basically cramped all the time. Real shame, never enjoyed my maximum potential. Still riding, now have perfect position and my quads are totally loose. Be careful with your position!
Incredibly convenient video! I am a super tall cyclist in Japan and I've been using a modified hybrid bicycle to accommodate my long legs. I always worry that my saddle height is too low so I usually tend to raise the saddle height so I can stretch out my legs and knees while I ride, however I definitely will ask a fellow cyclist in town to monitor my back while I ride to see if my thighs are swaying a bit too much. Thank you GCN!
How tall are you?
@@iealschnee1685 1.55 meters, it's very tall in Japan.
Flexibility and core strength hardly ever seem to be mentioned. If you have poor capability in both areas you'll struggle to get an optimum position both in terms of power and comfort. If you're interested in cycling more than just casually then you need to make sure you've got good flexibility and core strength (which is worth having for its own sake).
Flexibility and core strength do make it easier to hold different positions on the bike, try one of our yoga sessions for cyclists ruclips.net/video/vjS68HwVtOY/видео.html
I agree, the proper saddle position fitting, height, tilt and the fore/aft position, is not best determined in a static position. That setting is just the start. A second experienced rider's observation of another rider on a flat road, up a hill, down a hill and around corners can help find the magic saddle position. In my experience the riders I fit complain and want to know why their cheek muscles ache after the fitting. The cheek muscles, on their face, hurt because they are smiling the whole time they ride their properly fitted bicycle.
You may even want slightly different heights for different things. At the extreme end, you may want it a bit higher for example, for a hill climb or short road bike TT, but a bit lower for Ulta distance. And if you get a fit and are advised to change the height of your seat, maybe move it there in stages over a few weeks, a quick change might cause a niggle whilst you get used to it.
Another issue is saddle sores. I was getting these on longer rides / higher training schedule but after lowering saddle only 2mm I no longer get them. No other change at all.
It's a small change that can make a big difference
I fit myself for years, raced and did okay. A cycle shop owner (Level 3 coach) said he'd give me a free bike fit in exchange for positive comments about his work. I came out of there withy saddle 3cm higher and he took off my 5 mil of shims on one shoe, and jammed my saddle back. I didn't get a km out his door before I stopped and put it all back again. Another fit some years later was no good either the saddle went up too high again. Hinault/LeMond method of inseam X .883, is too high for me too, I get the best results using the old style heel on the pedal, plus add a couple of mil. The saddle height now compared to LeMond is 2cm lower, but it's comfy, I never have knee or low back issues, my hands don't get numb and I ride fast and can climb... Sometimes you have to rely on instincts and feel, all I'm saying
I like my saddle to be high enough that when I fully extend my leg and push with the ball of my foot, my butt just barely comes off the saddle. That has seemed to work well for me and I experience no saddle soreness or injuries. I'm a bike courier as well.
If you continue to ride with a saddle to high, the medical issue will eventually become apparent
What I notice from riding behind people is that most lean to one side. For some, it starts at the hips. Others have curved backs. Could be bone length/shape, could be tendon/ligament flexibility, could be muscle imbalance.
To install the saddle far back on the rails and put it 5 mm lower made my bike much more comfortable.
Took away the pain in my hands.
Record your saddle height by measuring from the saddle to the pedal, when it’s at bdc not the bb as the crank length could differ.
Actually, it is to the Bottom Bracket. Then if you change crank length, you adjust from there. The Gold standard, is the crank level and where your knee point is above the center of the pedal spindle and your knee is at 30 degrees with the crank arm in line with the seat tube. I'm an oddball as I can't get left/right fully in these specifications. What you don't want it squatting or knee lockout.
Conner I really like your bike the colours really pop🚴🏾♂️👍🏾
My preferred, most comfortable and efficient saddle height and the one that's led to the fewest injuries and pain is a bit higher than the ones that those measure this and multiply by that formulas call for, which when I follow them make for an uncomfortable and inefficient saddle height that's tended to cause knee pain and injury and just not feel right. In the position that feels best for me I end up with my knees slightly bent at their most extended position, but never fully extended. There's no hard and fast rule. Those are just starting points and rough estimators.
I was expecting some “do this” or “try that” advice. At the least, heel on the pedal with a straight leg to get started.
Best method is to lower it then keep raising it until the stroke becomes choppy. Don't just stop raising it when it feels "OK" as that might well be too low. If you look at cycling videos, crits, etc., you can see when people straighten their leg when coasting, the heel is generally either even with the toe, or slightly elevated. That is a decent thing to keep in mind too, that if you can clip in and still massively drop your heel with your leg fully extended, you might well be too low.
Remember to also measure the distance form the seat top to the crank arm pedal hole center or edge for when you get a new bike with a different crank length. If you use the seat to center of the BB it could be off a cm or 2.
Does the saddle height need to be the same on a road and gravel bike?
Excellent tutorial.
I got the Retul fit at a local shop...huge "i" opener relative to how I had been positioned on the bike for the previous 10+ years...😂
What is the best method for setting saddle height the LeMond method or the 109% method ?
I usually hate fluorescent paint but that looks cool.
It amazes me how many times in the past few years iv seen people ride too low+
Suggest smooth roads for best ride. Can feel Egbert bump.
It's taken me almost a year to dial in a good fit on my new bike, like the boys say, make a change, then ride it a while to see how it feels. Better to be a little too low than too high. Most people go too high to start. Pop it on a turbo and have someone look at you on that, they'll soon see if you're displaying anything odd.
Got any tips for mitigating a sore neck from riding? I am trying desperately to get back in the saddle and as I expected, any ride over 30 minutes results in sore neck muscles and the longer it goes on the harder it is to keep my head up. So any ideas? Eventually it will actually get easier with longer rides over a 6 month period.
Nearing the end of summer I am lowering the saddle of my bike to an inefficient low position, and ride high gears. This way I train my quads for iceskating.
...
I must say that last year I haven't, sadly winter has become a gloomy gray misery in my country, it has been ages that I haven't skated on decent ice 😟😟
Kkk
K
Is that Orbea's paint job custom? I love it.
Very well made video!
I was lucky my local bike shop seller is a cyclist and he helpt me to set my height just right
Funny I had people tell me that my saddle was too high because I rocked back and forth. Got a professional fitting and found out my saddle was too low. Raised the saddle, moved it slightly forward and went with a shorter stem. Bike fits like a glove. Things are not always as they seem, and if I took your advice it would have made things worse.
I've only been cycling a year, but found this 'rule of thumb' calculation useful to get close to a comfortable saddle height (before minor adjustments).
Leg Inseam in mm x 0.883 = recommended saddle height (crank centre to saddle).
Interesting! I'll give this a check when I get home
That's the old Cyril Guimard/Greg Lemond standard. It will get you very close.
Don’t score your seatpost! Particularly if it’s carbon 😧
You can score your carbon seat post without causing any problems. It doesn't take much pressure to score something and you are only going through the paint or clear coat. More pressure than that isn't needed. It is pretty hard to damage the fibers unless you are mistaking scoring with cutting. The only thing is that I wouldn't score until you have found your ideal saddle height so you you have a repeatable setting if you ever need to travel with your bike, etc.
@@alpsalish
I'm glad that on my Giant Defy they provided a seat post with clear, numbered millimeter markings on the front, so I just make a note (mentally and with a photograph) of where the post is set.
@@tedl7538 That is pretty sweet! Does the defy use endurance geo? I'm looking at getting a new bike and I feel like Giant gives you a whole lot of bike for the money. That isn't to say Giant isn't a premium brand, they are ;-)
@@alpsalish Always use tape --if you change saddles, pedals, shoes, the line will move.
@@henseleric I guess it depends how dialed you are. I work in composites and have no problem scribing. I don't replace my pedal system often anymore nor do I swap shoes once I've found something that fits well. Largely replacement of components.
Had to say good bye to some neck and knee pain when I followed some instructions for how high my saddle should be. So yep saddle height and position is really important.
Seems like you should measure from saddle to pedal, so you can take into account different crank arm lengths one might find on different bikes, particularly a hire bike
Sub'd :) I have to run my saddle low due to knee cap injury. Tried to raise it by just 10mm and the pain returned. 5mm and it seemed ok. It's wrong I know, but I have to live with it.
Catering to injury is the exception. You have to do what you have to do.
Same for me. My saddle should be a bit higher but when i put it up just a few mm from where it is i get i.t band issues. I put it back down and it goes away so that's what o go with.
Stretching is very important for me for that issue.
@@TboneTenEighties I must admit, I try and stretch before and after riding too. It's a must
Definitely -1 for scoring the seat post, as noted.
But there's nothing that tells you how to find the right height, other than vague reference to a bike fitter or having a friend ride behind you to tell you the symptoms you just introduced are visible. The comments have some good actionable suggestions…makes me wonder if the presenters were just asking everyone to do their homework.
I injured myself once for having the seat too high: pulled a muscle by the knee. Other time I injured myself, I think, for having
the seat a bit too low. I developed a tendinitis on my knee.
When measuring my saddle height I measure from the peddle spindle where it threads into the crank arm at the bottom of the stroke so that the height would be the same on any bike regardless of the crank arm length.
Pedal top surface is even better since pedal stack height can vary.
Measurement should be taken from the top of the pedal not BB center since different length cranks and pedal stack height can change your effective saddle height.
Easy to setup. A little difficult to get used to using.
Usually it takes me an absolutely age to get my saddle height feeling just right, but on my newest bike (Giant TCR Adv), for some reason I got it nailed pretty much on my second try, and I've been happy with it since. Maybe I should go buy a lottery ticket? 😃
I usually adjust my saddle hight upwards until I reach the riding comfort of a penny-farthing.
XD
Salute to our presenter Hank
Sometimes my saddle slips a tiny bit and I can feel the reduction in the power (when you have as little power as I do that's a big problem)
This was one very informative video. Specially for me, because I just got my first cleats and my hips are moving too much or I feel like it’s too low on the others. I have 3 bikes and I feel like I’m having issues with the right saddle height. I’ve tried watching different videos on how to set the height myself, but I think I might have to end up paying a pro to set me up and then save the measurements to set my other bikes.
It's an easy mistake to make! A pro bike fit can be really useful
There are some really good calculators online. Use a level pull into your crotch uncomfortably bare foot. Make the level level and plug in your inseam measurement.
After setting your seat hight then adjust the forward and back using a plum bob dropped off the front of the knee with the pedals horizontal. Goal is move the seat so the center of the plumb is center of the pedal.
Before that center your cleat with the middle of your big toe joint. Tada great bike fit.
Get a helper makes it way easier.
It's much more common for people to have the saddle too low than high, you also get a lot of knee pain from too low of a saddle
How much area is the sweet spot for the height? +- how much?
It's a common practice here in my country to have a high saddle height, I think for them it looks good. I've seen a lot of young riders rocking their hips while pedaling, they won't listen when you tell them. Usually, it's the high saddle, slammed stem combo.
we have a large frame trend. even branded sellers do it poor customers.
A 4'11" boy rides a 24 inch frame just cause he can.
No wonder we opt to walk and drive cars more.
Not necessarily for looks. I was one of them. About 4 cm too high. Team members would tell me, and we'd laugh about it...I should've listened. Raced all those years with the horrible disadvantage. Even my training buddies said my terrible rocking was a "style"...Now, I notice many riders with high saddle heights, but it's very hard to tell them. They (like me back then) think the correct saddle height is the one that allows maximum force (like a leg press machine). Power is not force.
After I bought my bike I had a professional adjust everything. Can't remember what he charged. But it was worth it.
0:03 YEEEOOOWWW!!! I felt that one
My seatpost, made from aluminium is stuck in the (carbon)frame - any ideas so get it out? Must be some kind of Korrosion over the Time. I did read aluminium oxide makes the diameter grow - I should have used some proper paste to prevent this 🙄
Ye 'ol heal on the pedal while seated and crank in line with seat post. Seems to get close.
You can injure yourself from a too low saddle.
a "bike fitter" set my saddle way too low and it caused a fatpad impingement in my knee. I was unable to ride for almost a year and my knee has never been the same.
You guys should go here in the Philippines. The height is crazy
Thanks for sharing
For me, it's my wrists that are the problem. I lowered the saddle height but also raised the handlebars which helped a bit. I do lose some power, but it's worth being in less pain when I ride.
This is usually when the saddle angle is down.
@@R0b3ert , yea, agreed. I did change that as well and it also helped. Have you had any experience with changing the stem to a bigger angle? I am getting a new bike in the next couple of weeks and they are suggesting moving from the 7 degree stem that comes with the bike to 17 degrees.
@@bobeliot2793 It depends on the individual, what is comfortable for you. I ride in aero position a lot, so my steam is dead straight.
I do like that Pinarello.
sadly the frame of my bike is too big, wheels too, 29". im 167cm high, i think a 26 inch wheels bike would be alot better for me. the bike is a gift, a quite expansive one with my standards.
Hank: Takin’ it to the jewels to drive home important stuff.
How does crank length affect saddle height? I was on 172.5, but bought a 170 crankset. Was I right to up the saddle height by 2.5mm?
Yes
Yes you right!
No no no, don't SCORE the seat post.
That'll cause a stress point which could lead to failure over time. How do you cut a paneof glass?
Score the surface then flex it across the score line.
Think of a crisp packet. They are very strong, you can pull and tug at it in all directions until you put a tiny nick in it, then it'll tear almost as easily as a tissue.
A small strip of electrical tape can be an alternative way to mark your saddle height without damaging the the seat post
In 1974 I first saw the 1.09 method for seat height adj.
Back against a wall, feet 6" apart (barefoot), slip LP album cover - or framing square - between legs, snug in the crotch, mark wall.
Multiply resultant wall measurement by 1.09 - Voila'
Knee pain is most often due to fore/aft seat adjustment. If you feel pain stop immediately and re-adjust saddle.
I do ride a lot on the trail. 80% of the people I see have theirs seat way too low.
Hank demontrates rocking hips nicely, but I'd guess that slow-mo was actually Manon 😀
If using Look keo type road pedals, do any seasoned road riders gauge leg extension by having legs fully extended with level heels on the top of pedals when back pedaling to 6 O clock ? and even a slight shoe sole gap of a few mm? Btw I like that Pinarello , what sets the Dogma apart from their other road framesets?
I just noticed that my right leg is longer than my left leg, and so my left calves is putting more effort than my right calves. Im still not using clipless pedals, so if i use clipless pedals do i need to put something to extend my left leg reach, and so they will be at equal length?
Conor's bike fuckin slaps. That thing is beautiful
I used to put my saddle too high, although I kinda miss that feeling.
I still find it confusing how to measure the proper height for me.
Very good Channel tanks
Hi.
Can anyone recommend a good bike fitter (that doesn't cost the earth) in West London please?
what about crank length? add that to the mix
So if my inseam is 34 inches i multiply that by 1.09?