Almost 40 years ago I managed a materials lab and was involved in the failure analysis that we did. One investigation to settle a lawsuit was to determine the cause of severe pitting corrosion on a custom-fabricated electroplating tank about as big as your garage - talk about expensive. There was extensive pitting all over the tank so severe that there were fluid leaks. It turned out that someone in the fab shops had cleaned up the stainless welds with an angle grinder which had previously been used on carbon steel. Every spark which landed on the surface of the stainless tank was a source of the point corrosion. Never let stainless and carbon steel mix!
Dude, I'm going to have to see that report. What you are describing is inferior foreign steel having contamination that isn't exposed until the surface is altered at high temp. OR microscopic pieces of steel (sparks) bonded to the surface at high temp, converting the spot it landed on into martensite but you're not going to convert more than microns of steel at a time. But you're not going to make SS rust just from "touching" something else. That's not how physics works on this planet. A chemical or atomic reaction needs to occur.
Yeah, I just triple-checked. Your memory is failing you. You cannot diffuse carbon into the SS at room temps. What you are describing is the creation of martenistic spots on the SS, which temporarily diffused carbon into the SS at high temp since it was a oxygen/metal spark. AND THEN... likely caused a galvanic reaction with the liquids involved. But it had nothing to do with "carbon steel" and SS interacting from simple touch.
@@m4rvinmartian I think we are in violent agreement. The failure mechanism is the case I referred to was electro-galvanic corrosion, everywhere that specks of carbon steel flew off the grinder wheel and stuck to the tank wall.
Great vid Man. Thank you for taking the time. I’ve been a machinist as my trade for 46 years. Along the way of course I picked up welding. Nice shop you have there. I just can’t see well enough to weld like I once could. Thank you.
I worked for a time in a Frauhof plant making tankers, they used the same gas for mild and stainless steel, 95% Argon 5% CO2 there was a small amount of weld discoloration which was washed off with acid never caused any trouble.
Go troll somewhere else. This guy is taking time out of his day to show people who are INTERESTED in learning something. You should say Thank You and move on.
@@kennethmays6830 welding stainless steel with gmaw is highly dangerous and should only be done with a proper respirator and coveralls to protect from harmful fumes and dust
Best gas choice for the money is 98/2. And that is the gas 8:59 recommended by Everlast in the manual and on the unit. Also manipulating inductance will clean that spatter up. you were down at 22 percent. It should be around 80. Tri mix is too expensive to run.
With the gas, i had someone who used c25 and the weld ended up with a very hard black coating, which i suspect is carbide. You need low amount of co2 in the gas for stainless. Eg 2%co2 98%argon.
Great video. I am a novice and trying to weld 304 stainless exhaust pipe. Having trouble with popping/ no penetration. I will try to turn up the voltage
I would suggest using a 300 series with low carbon with high silicon added. You must adjust your inductance to a higher percentage. Keep a short stick out measure from the contact tip, not the nozzle. Dragging the arc seems to work the best to reduce spatter. The tri mix works the best but Argon/. 2 Co2 can work on thinner gauge Stainless. 😎👨🏭.
I may not be able to "Play" in the shop anymore but sure is nice to keep a idea going. I did notice that because of this heat when welding stainless, the metal distorts or bends more when doing a continuous weld. Nothing the shrinker stretcher tools or other means can not fix as in say body shop type situations
You can just run 98 Argon 2 Oxy as well. Personally I'm not a big fan of just pissing away helium for practice or because the gas company made their own special blend. Helium once released leaves the atmosphere and it's not easy to make. We are all chipping away at the same finite supply
I pulse mig stainless all the time and with the right machine it can look pretty comparable to tig. Lincoln, miller and fronius all have welders that can produce tig like appearance with pulse mig.
Back that heat down ! Turn that wire down and stop pushing the puddle and that buckshot will go away and that rainbow effect will slightly appear , videos like this is what gives short circuit mig a bad reputation if you’re getting spatter keep turning the wire feed speed up until the machine starts popping then bump it back down slightly ,stainless likes to stay in the puddle and don’t “push” the puddle , also if you have an adjustable nozzle poke that tip out slightly on the gun , rather than sucked in an your puddle will wet out more . Make these changes an you might be surprised on the results .
would like to see a video on stick welding stainless and your thoughts on the process. i dont do much stainless work so it works in a pinch when i need it
Ive only MIG'd stainless once at work. 75/25 felt weird. I ended up using 98/2 based on the advice of my supervisor and a couple other welders who had done it before. Where was this video about a year ago?
So what would you say to someone welding mild steel to a 304 stainless auger barrel using ER70-S6 wire and 100%C02 it welds quite nice actually. i found it creates less spatter than welding mild steel to mild steel
Thanks for all the variations. Dumb question, if mig isn’t as nice looking and may be more expensive you might have said, why not tig weld stainless? unless mig is stronger and if looks don’t matter.
I'm not an expert so take what I say with a grain of salt, but MIG is way faster than TIG, and is typically easier for a non-expert. I find that my TIG welder is more expensive to run, simply because of the fact that MIG is much faster. If it takes an hour to weld a piece with TIG and 15 minutes to weld a piece with MIG, the gas might be more expensive per unit of volume, but you're using 1/4 the amount. I've also personally found that TIG is much harder to work with in tight places. A TIG torch is pretty bulky compared to a MIG torch. They both have their place. TIG is the stronger weld, but MIG is good enough for 99% of situations.
And that would bé the most awesome cake tó ever exist or tó ever bé known tó mankind! Thats whats up!! .....just saying!!!! 😁😁😃😃😆😆😉😉🎂🍰. Have a safe And blessed day everyone And thank you for all that you all dô And for the videos, teaching OTHERS sò we can learn too, And for the smiles And laughs too. Asalaam peace -Melissa Myers-Bingham🐝🍯
Ss mig is my least favourite process. It's too fast for me if done right. And pulled if you want to minimise spatter. You don't feel like being in control at that speed. Really a different beast compared to carbon
I have to disagree with your “not as pretty” comment. Once you dial in your settings, learn to pull with a whip you will produce beautiful beads w/ minimal spatter when anti-spatter is used. I mig 304 stainless everyday ranging from 14g-1/2”. Been welding for 30 yrs now and 10 on stainless. Also to save some money you can use a 98/2 argon/co2. It’s not as smooth as tri-mix, but it’s real close. If ya want some tips n tricks n pics, give me a holler (yes I’m old 😂)
dustandietz, for welding on thicker material, 1/4" and above, using 98/2 AR-O2 gets you into axial spray transfer......makes life a lot easier as the heat helps with wet out one the bead.....Paul
You at least mentioned hexavalent chromium... But safety is first..ive seen videos that don't even mention it. But ill say that if you mig weld stainless you may want even more safety than just a mask my friend .
Using a mix gas to M.Inert.G , please learn the difference between 131 MIG and 135 MAG , dont do instructional videos when you don't even know the very basics
Almost 40 years ago I managed a materials lab and was involved in the failure analysis that we did. One investigation to settle a lawsuit was to determine the cause of severe pitting corrosion on a custom-fabricated electroplating tank about as big as your garage - talk about expensive. There was extensive pitting all over the tank so severe that there were fluid leaks. It turned out that someone in the fab shops had cleaned up the stainless welds with an angle grinder which had previously been used on carbon steel. Every spark which landed on the surface of the stainless tank was a source of the point corrosion. Never let stainless and carbon steel mix!
Dude, I'm going to have to see that report.
What you are describing is inferior foreign steel having contamination that isn't exposed until the surface is altered at high temp.
OR microscopic pieces of steel (sparks) bonded to the surface at high temp, converting the spot it landed on into martensite but you're not going to convert more than microns of steel at a time.
But you're not going to make SS rust just from "touching" something else.
That's not how physics works on this planet. A chemical or atomic reaction needs to occur.
Yeah, I just triple-checked.
Your memory is failing you.
You cannot diffuse carbon into the SS at room temps.
What you are describing is the creation of martenistic spots on the SS, which temporarily diffused carbon into the SS at high temp since it was a oxygen/metal spark.
AND THEN...
likely caused a galvanic reaction with the liquids involved.
But it had nothing to do with "carbon steel" and SS interacting from simple touch.
You betcha ❤
@@m4rvinmartian I think we are in violent agreement. The failure mechanism is the case I referred to was electro-galvanic corrosion, everywhere that specks of carbon steel flew off the grinder wheel and stuck to the tank wall.
Great vid Man. Thank you for taking the time. I’ve been a machinist as my trade for 46 years. Along the way of course I picked up welding. Nice shop you have there. I just can’t see well enough to weld like I once could. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! They make all kinds of "cheater" lenses that you can clip into your hood if you are having a hard time seeing.
Excellent video, thank you. I have been learning to TIG weld stainless steel, but I have MIG welded it with 95% argon and 5% CO2.
I worked for a time in a Frauhof plant making tankers, they used the same gas for mild and stainless steel, 95% Argon 5% CO2 there was a small amount of weld discoloration which was washed off with acid never caused any trouble.
boy, that respirator sure disappeared fast. 😂
Heh heh 😅
Go troll somewhere else. This guy is taking time out of his day to show people who are INTERESTED in learning something. You should say Thank You and move on.
@@kennethmays6830 welding stainless steel with gmaw is highly dangerous and should only be done with a proper respirator and coveralls to protect from harmful fumes and dust
@@kennethmays6830you wont be using what you learned for long if you don’t take care of your body
Best gas choice for the money is 98/2. And that is the gas 8:59 recommended by Everlast in the manual and on the unit. Also manipulating inductance will clean that spatter up. you were down at 22 percent. It should be around 80. Tri mix is too expensive to run.
CRONIGON® S2 AR/O² % ?
@@sraz12 No Ar/CO2 98/2
308lsi with 98/2. You'll love it over the tri mix and 308l
We use 309LSi on 98/2, works great especially on pulse
With the gas, i had someone who used c25 and the weld ended up with a very hard black coating, which i suspect is carbide. You need low amount of co2 in the gas for stainless. Eg 2%co2 98%argon.
C2 gas is a good option too
Great info
Propper way i think honestly.
Great video. I am a novice and trying to weld 304 stainless exhaust pipe. Having trouble with popping/ no penetration. I will try to turn up the voltage
Proud of you man!
I would suggest using a 300 series with low carbon with high silicon added. You must adjust your inductance to a higher percentage. Keep a short stick out measure from the contact tip, not the nozzle. Dragging the arc seems to work the best to reduce spatter. The tri mix works the best but Argon/. 2 Co2 can work on thinner gauge Stainless.
😎👨🏭.
All things we will have to test out, thanks for the recommendations!
Would cleaning up the joint carefully before welding, as you would with TIG, have made much difference with the MIG process you were demonstrating?
The material was already clean. Shouldn’t need much prep. Should’ve used some anti spatter for sure
I may not be able to "Play" in the shop anymore but sure is nice to keep a idea going. I did notice that because of this heat when welding stainless, the metal distorts or bends more when doing a continuous weld. Nothing the shrinker stretcher tools or other means can not fix as in say body shop type situations
Stainless does tend to distort a bit more than carbon so nice to have ways to fix it around.
You can just run 98 Argon 2 Oxy as well. Personally I'm not a big fan of just pissing away helium for practice or because the gas company made their own special blend. Helium once released leaves the atmosphere and it's not easy to make. We are all chipping away at the same finite supply
When I weld MIG, Stainless in use CRONIGON® S2 ( AR/ O² % )
Must of what it was heavy wall :)
God job💪💪💯💯👍
Pulse mig stainless is great. Can still get a pretty rose and straw color. But short circuit sucks haha
Agreed!
We will have to do some experimenting with pulse soon
I pulse mig stainless all the time and with the right machine it can look pretty comparable to tig. Lincoln, miller and fronius all have welders that can produce tig like appearance with pulse mig.
Great video
Back that heat down ! Turn that wire down and stop pushing the puddle and that buckshot will go away and that rainbow effect will slightly appear , videos like this is what gives short circuit mig a bad reputation if you’re getting spatter keep turning the wire feed speed up until the machine starts popping then bump it back down slightly ,stainless likes to stay in the puddle and don’t “push” the puddle , also if you have an adjustable nozzle poke that tip out slightly on the gun , rather than sucked in an your puddle will wet out more . Make these changes an you might be surprised on the results .
would like to see a video on stick welding stainless and your thoughts on the process. i dont do much stainless work so it works in a pinch when i need it
Having used stick on heavy SS, it produces excellent welds!
No tri mix... So what is the next better gas?
Also using a tapered 7/16 nozzle helps with gas coverage. An uses less cfh.... Your regular isnt for helium so the reading off
Ive only MIG'd stainless once at work. 75/25 felt weird. I ended up using 98/2 based on the advice of my supervisor and a couple other welders who had done it before. Where was this video about a year ago?
Cool video. Can you use pure argon for mig stainless? Also, do you have to use a different liner so as not to contaminate the wire feed?
@@paullewis252 10 yrs experience - no and no
So what would you say to someone welding mild steel to a 304 stainless auger barrel using ER70-S6 wire and 100%C02 it welds quite nice actually. i found it creates less spatter than welding mild steel to mild steel
how did you keep the metal from warping?
What's everyone one running for inductance settings on stainless. I seem to end up around 95% for good wetting and low spatter. Is this bad?
Use post flow to keep the end of the weld from getting black eyes... Those black eyes will never clean up with passivation.
Thanks for all the variations. Dumb question, if mig isn’t as nice looking and may be more expensive you might have said, why not tig weld stainless? unless mig is stronger and if looks don’t matter.
I'm not an expert so take what I say with a grain of salt, but MIG is way faster than TIG, and is typically easier for a non-expert.
I find that my TIG welder is more expensive to run, simply because of the fact that MIG is much faster. If it takes an hour to weld a piece with TIG and 15 minutes to weld a piece with MIG, the gas might be more expensive per unit of volume, but you're using 1/4 the amount.
I've also personally found that TIG is much harder to work with in tight places. A TIG torch is pretty bulky compared to a MIG torch.
They both have their place. TIG is the stronger weld, but MIG is good enough for 99% of situations.
What is regular MiG that he mentioned?
I want to spend a weekend at Austin’s shop. 👀
13:56 - Looked like a cake with steel frosting! LOL Beautiful welds! 🤤 Too bad we can't eat it.
Lol don't put it past Austin to try and taste it.
And that would bé the most awesome cake tó ever exist or tó ever bé known tó mankind! Thats whats up!! .....just saying!!!! 😁😁😃😃😆😆😉😉🎂🍰.
Have a safe And blessed day everyone And thank you for all that you all dô And for the videos, teaching OTHERS sò we can learn too, And for the smiles And laughs too.
Asalaam peace
-Melissa Myers-Bingham🐝🍯
Very interesting and informative video, thank you. Much, much better without that comic relief crap! Miss old Bob.
Glad you enjoyed it
The chevrons in the weld should be c shaped. Not v shaped, you also moved to fast throught the finale weld.
Ok like 💙 ❤❤
❤
dont forget yall if you use sharpie on stainless steel it can remove the rust resistants
Try using 90 10 gas.
So not flux core?
Not in this video.
That process needs to be pushed/ pulled to control heat.
I suggest to try Pulse mode.
Yea, after he explains arc control and arc length....
Didn’t have that
Ss mig is my least favourite process. It's too fast for me if done right. And pulled if you want to minimise spatter. You don't feel like being in control at that speed. Really a different beast compared to carbon
Very different indeed, You do have to travel pretty fast to get the outcome you are hoping for.
I have to disagree with your “not as pretty” comment. Once you dial in your settings, learn to pull with a whip you will produce beautiful beads w/ minimal spatter when anti-spatter is used. I mig 304 stainless everyday ranging from 14g-1/2”. Been welding for 30 yrs now and 10 on stainless.
Also to save some money you can use a 98/2 argon/co2. It’s not as smooth as tri-mix, but it’s real close.
If ya want some tips n tricks n pics, give me a holler (yes I’m old 😂)
dustandietz, for welding on thicker material, 1/4" and above, using 98/2 AR-O2 gets you into axial spray transfer......makes life a lot easier as the heat helps with wet out one the bead.....Paul
Hello, can I ask why pull and not push
98Ar 2O Is cheaper and better
We will have to try it out!
Why not just use C2? Whole lot cheaper.
You mean 98/2 ? Also a good option
@@austinhargett5792Yes that's what I meant lol. You can use 2% CO2 or O2. I can't afford Helium 😂
great infomercial.
98/2. screw the tri mix it costs a fortune. bad advice.
You at least mentioned hexavalent chromium... But safety is first..ive seen videos that don't even mention it. But ill say that if you mig weld stainless you may want even more safety than just a mask my friend .
Using a mix gas to M.Inert.G , please learn the difference between 131 MIG and 135 MAG , dont do instructional videos when you don't even know the very basics