Rusty metal, paint, grease, NO PROBLEM! 6013s on DC+ 😅 Oh, and with the same 6013s you get arc gouging on AC buzz boxes too....! Or maybe it's my "welding" 😅 ❤👍
I run my own weld fab amd repair shop, and i work a lot on farming equipment. In my experience, 6013 is the king when you need to weld on rust or paint or dirt or grease. Gasless fluxcore works ok on thinner stuff
@@dustinandtarynwolfe5540 low penetration rod? Then you run to cold👌😅 this rod is most used In Europe. Almost in construction. This rod is like the 6010 in us.🤷♂️ We use 6013 in various variations and 7018
Shipbuilder for fourty five years, for nasty steel nothing beats 6011 to burn the crap out and give you something to weld to, or just finish with the 6011. Have been in many, many, "you want THAT fixxed?" As others have stated fill/cap 7018
I spent years welding in a coal breaker and coal dryer. The cheap owners bought thousands of pounds of surplus welding rods from good knows where. They were 11018, and they were all we could usually get. We welded everything with them, including crusty, slop covered, paper thin, painted, galvanized, and occasionally real metal😂😅😂. We'd use a hammer, grider or torch to take off the worst of it and blast away. It didn't make us pretty welders, but when a guy could learn to do that, you knew you could literally trust your life with each other's work.
I'm quite surprised by TIG, but maybe shouldn't be. I do a lot of DC TIG on mild steel in my home shop for lots of projects and repairs. I used to clean everything perfectly, even wipe with acetone prior to welding. I've recently realized it's not nearly as picky as some people lead on. Sure you might get a pop and have some garbage jump on the tungsten occasionally, but I'll weld right over mill scale without porosity. Still doesn't like paint and grease at all, and stainless or TIG braze has to be really clean. That's my personal experience, and your experience here is similar. It's really become my go-to method of welding for anything.
Well, I saw the videoclip and what I can suggest for You (and that was here not shown) are two more productive processes or wires that are more resistant to what You used here. First is use of basic FCAW-G wire (f.e.: Filarc PZ 6125, dia.0,045” ) that is more productive and also resistant to rust and paint layer to 20 micrometers thick. Second is use of FCAW-SS wire ( f.e.: Lincoln Electric NR-232 dia. 0,068” or Lincoln Electric NS-3M dia. 5/64”). Best regards, Vojislav Car
I used 6013 for rebar making structure for concrete forms and such. 6013 works plenty fine for that, but for our thicker steel jackets for the giant water pipes, 7013 was our go-to for making solid repairs
As my instructors taught me cleanliness is next to godliness... Yes cleaning and prepping is best but if you have to I personally have found that 6010... Or a flux cored wire will do good. Though my preference is a 6010 rod, as this is made to dig through the surface and help get penetration.
Id be curious to see some cut n etch to see the differences in penetration of the different processes. When i was a younger diesel mechanic sometimes i would go on road calls and the service truck had a Lincoln tombstone welder and quantities of 6011 and 7018. On the side of the highway you couldn't always prep properly but you could usually get te equipment back to the shop. I learned long ago on unknown quality or something i was unfamiliar with to do cut n etch , it saved my butt a few times. Good video
The trick I would use is run the oxy over the area that needs welding first. When you find old zinc galvanised pipe the Flux core and rods are the best solution.
As far as the likelihood of something being used on rust/dirt/paint is concerned, I would say that gas-less FC is at least AS likely to be used as stick is. Would've been interesting to see how that did without the gas....(someone else mentioned AC stick and it would also be interesting to see what the back and forth of the AC did to the rust/weld)
Would love to see those cut in half and tested for strength. I'm like crazy on how far I will take cleaning stuff up before welding, still I think people underestimate how much trash a TIG weld will boil out
@@dusty1498boohoo 😢 any company naming their rods like it's a cologne is most likely selling trash anyway. Boy's braggin' about some capitalist remarketing harbor freight rods 😂😂
@@dusty1498 We most certainly do reoresent lincoln electric. Proudly. but I like cool welding stuff as much as the next guy. I mean, id like to see it!
My dad welded trough rust with his 160A AC buzzer and dirty old most crapy cheap rubbish trash find 6013 sticks. All those machines, shelves, doors, fences are still there and working today….
The reason why you had porosity in the fcaw is because you were pushing, you always want to pull when using a process that deposits slag, only push when doing uphill fcaw or smaw or mig and tig, otherwise you wanna drag, you wouldnt push a 7018 rod would you?
I always love your content, but sometimes when you demonstrate various processes you sometimes use less than decent consumables to demonstrate or make a point about a particular process, in this case, Dual Shield wire that has been improperly stored. Even if the weld was meticulously prepped to bright shiny metal, then welding it with crappy DS, the weld is going to look like crap. What’s the point? Sometimes you’ve got to do/use what you gotta do/use. I think the majority of your viewers are striving to learn/improve their welding, and the majority are going to be using reasonably decent affordable consumables. If your point is to demonstrate how using crappy consumables affects your welds, then by all means do a video demo on crappy consumables or poor prepared materials. In this video, the materials you chose to weld on were a perfect choice to demo what various welding processes can do when you have no choice but to weld through rust, but using old crappy dual shield wire didn’t reflect what dual shield is good at. I would really like to see what a decent affordable Dual Shield wire can do in a case like this. Also, DS is an “Odd Duck” where it is counter intuitive to turn up the wire feed speed and a bit of voltage to put the wire in its optimal performance range. In this case, for 0.045 DS wire, I would set voltage 24-25 volts and 350-375 wire feed speed. In my experience this allows the wire to approach “Spray MIG” like performance/penetration with no manipulations and it produces nice flat welds with no worm tracks. Jody Collier of “weldingtipsandtricks” has a great video of contrasting DS wire feed speed settings with Cut & Etch titled “Dual Shield Flux Core Welding and Evolution Dry Cut Saws”. I apologize if this seems overly critical of your work, it’s not, I say it with upmost respect and appreciation of your content and teaching style, especially the humor. Thank You
Whoever said dual shield fluxcore can run through rust, mill scale and paint are liars. I’m glad you got porosity on this test to prove my point. I know you want to blame the wire but I think you are chasing your tail on that logic. Clean wire to dirty material is not how this works.
@@jamesray9009 I agree . Tig has its place, but it ain’t outdoors for sure. “Farm” welding calls for flux or stick. Both are portable and work outside and on rusty metal.
Oh man pushing slag with flux core and blaming it on the wire hurts my feelings. And I learned to weld 6010 uphill on this channel 🥺 my dude can you correct this I wanna respect my mentors
The machine will certainly matter. Working off of 110 will certainly decrease your results. I can’t give a good number but if all you have is 110 I’d say 1/4” is your max to be safe
I run flux core up to 1/8 inch on 110VAC welder. Any thicker than that I grab my 240VAC machine. 16.5 volts at 200IPM is about the limit on a 110 machine.
About 80a and 27-30 volts is your max. It's CC (constant current) so your voltage will be determined by your rod and arc length. Some (expensive) 110 machines can run 6010, some can't, it all boils down to if the machine can push the cumulative wattage needed to run the rod you're using. That being said, stick to 3/32'' 7018, and max your amperage out. You'll be running a little cold at 80, and probably just right at 90a. You can easily weld 3/16'' and 1/4'' steel with 80 and 90 respectively, and once you start moving up in thickness, bevel and preheat your plates.
When I first started welding my Forman/fitter would make me weld on rust, paint, and slag. Then berate me for my welds. They were junk jobs but now I dont put up with that anymore.
I've done tons of mdf painting. Hand down the best thing to do to make it go smoothly is seal all cut edges and surface with shellac. It seals so easy and if you don't it'll need more than 2 coats of latex primer.
Yeah, and after “welding” with oxy-acetylene, regarding enormous heat input, result is the joint that is extremely questionable regarding mechanical properties. Personally, I PROHIBITED use of this w.p. everywhere I was, as I.W.E. In charge.
My dude did you just push flux core? It's not mig you drag it at like a 15° angle like stick bro. I never even tried pushing slag but dang that would have to make a mess 🫠
Could you get any more blatant with the corporate shilling? Also running that gnarly push angle with dual shield isn't recommended, and I don't think it's a coincidence that there's porosity right where he kept his stick out super tight (under ~5/8'')
Essentially this is th very FIRST demo of this Everlast 255 MTS whattttttt a BEASTTTTTT of a machine💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽Now I looked at both th New 263PI An this 255MTS similar numbers on th tech specs granted th 263PI has a few more volts is it possible for u to a head to head review on 255MTS vs 263PI please thank u an thank u for all ur great lessons with each video God Bless🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Would you actually explain your shorts all the comments on the one I watched are either arguing or completely confused if it is a joke, a critique, or you’re actually impressed with the weld. It’s worse than clickbait to make people search through the comments just to figure out what the video means. Would never sub to a channel that cares so little for viewer experience to give zero context.
Like most comments, 6013, 6011 w/7018 caps tops the list. Did a whole lot of jobs is a saltwater environment and on AG stuff. These 3 never failed.
top teir rods for sure
@@jessiewinegeart3898 they don’t nickname it “Farmer Rod” for no reason.
Really interesting, didn't expect them results. Great video 😎👍
Rusty metal, paint, grease, NO PROBLEM!
6013s on DC+ 😅
Oh, and with the same 6013s you get arc gouging on AC buzz boxes too....!
Or maybe it's my "welding" 😅
❤👍
I run my own weld fab amd repair shop, and i work a lot on farming equipment. In my experience, 6013 is the king when you need to weld on rust or paint or dirt or grease. Gasless fluxcore works ok on thinner stuff
6013 is certainly a fabulous option to get through grit
Can't possibly be serious. Do you mean 6010 or 6011? 6013 is a low penetration rod. It's the worst choice for stick welding rust.
@@dustinandtarynwolfe5540 low penetration rod? Then you run to cold👌😅 this rod is most used In Europe. Almost in construction. This rod is like the 6010 in us.🤷♂️ We use 6013 in various variations and 7018
When I worked at the mill, 6011 seemed to be the go-to rod for the millwrights repairing nasty machines.
Yep, 6011 rules. You should try it on clean steel too. Welds like butter.
Retired millwright here,started my own weld business, your spot on
Shipbuilder for fourty five years, for nasty steel nothing beats 6011 to burn the crap out and give you something to weld to, or just finish with the 6011. Have been in many, many, "you want THAT fixxed?"
As others have stated fill/cap 7018
I've also heard 6011 called farmers rod cuz it is the king of welding through crap!
I spent years welding in a coal breaker and coal dryer. The cheap owners bought thousands of pounds of surplus welding rods from good knows where.
They were 11018, and they were all we could usually get. We welded everything with them, including crusty, slop covered, paper thin, painted, galvanized, and occasionally real metal😂😅😂. We'd use a hammer, grider or torch to take off the worst of it and blast away.
It didn't make us pretty welders, but when a guy could learn to do that, you knew you could literally trust your life with each other's work.
I have heard from old timers running AC stick was the best paint/rust welding, this is definitely interesting to see done.
I wish you had tried 035 flux core, not dual shield. Plain jane flux core. That is what 3 of us amateurs use, or 6011
I'm quite surprised by TIG, but maybe shouldn't be. I do a lot of DC TIG on mild steel in my home shop for lots of projects and repairs. I used to clean everything perfectly, even wipe with acetone prior to welding. I've recently realized it's not nearly as picky as some people lead on. Sure you might get a pop and have some garbage jump on the tungsten occasionally, but I'll weld right over mill scale without porosity. Still doesn't like paint and grease at all, and stainless or TIG braze has to be really clean. That's my personal experience, and your experience here is similar. It's really become my go-to method of welding for anything.
Well, I saw the videoclip and what I can suggest for You (and that was here not shown) are two more productive processes or wires that are more resistant to what You used here.
First is use of basic FCAW-G wire (f.e.: Filarc PZ 6125, dia.0,045” ) that is more productive and also resistant to rust and paint layer to 20 micrometers thick.
Second is use of FCAW-SS wire ( f.e.: Lincoln Electric NR-232 dia. 0,068” or Lincoln Electric NS-3M dia. 5/64”).
Best regards,
Vojislav Car
I used 6013 for rebar making structure for concrete forms and such. 6013 works plenty fine for that, but for our thicker steel jackets for the giant water pipes, 7013 was our go-to for making solid repairs
Good demos!
Great info as usual and I loved the salad fingers reference!
Cool comparison
As my instructors taught me cleanliness is next to godliness... Yes cleaning and prepping is best but if you have to I personally have found that 6010... Or a flux cored wire will do good. Though my preference is a 6010 rod, as this is made to dig through the surface and help get penetration.
Sucker will eat!
Great video with a unique perspective to still getting the job done 🫡
Some surprising results! But just because you could doesn’t mean you should lol
Well done Austin…cheers, Paulie Brown down
What filters do you use with your respirator?
@@JacobSmith-v5o p100’s bro
Id be curious to see some cut n etch to see the differences in penetration of the different processes. When i was a younger diesel mechanic sometimes i would go on road calls and the service truck had a Lincoln tombstone welder and quantities of 6011 and 7018. On the side of the highway you couldn't always prep properly but you could usually get te equipment back to the shop.
I learned long ago on unknown quality or something i was unfamiliar with to do cut n etch , it saved my butt a few times. Good video
Im with you. Flux core and stick.. normally I use flux core.. and it seems like a wire made for multi pass works best for my welder.. woth me anyway
7016 with a lime based flux is the best type i have found......Phillips 56S is the go to for dirty steel
6011 is the "farmers" rod because it does it's own prep.
*Thank you.*
I am interested in what respirator cartridges you use when welding?
@@HandyVandyCreations p100 filters
The trick I would use is run the oxy over the area that needs welding first.
When you find old zinc galvanised pipe the Flux core and rods are the best solution.
As far as the likelihood of something being used on rust/dirt/paint is concerned, I would say that gas-less FC is at least AS likely to be used as stick is. Would've been interesting to see how that did without the gas....(someone else mentioned AC stick and it would also be interesting to see what the back and forth of the AC did to the rust/weld)
I use 6010 or flux core for my welding business in Wyoming
Would love to see those cut in half and tested for strength. I'm like crazy on how far I will take cleaning stuff up before welding, still I think people underestimate how much trash a TIG weld will boil out
Try Some Rockmount Tartan AAA on those Rusty Pipes and compare it to 5p+
Have em give me a call! 😂
@AustinHargett Oh i forgot you have a sponsorship with lincoln guess that wont be happening
@@dusty1498boohoo 😢 any company naming their rods like it's a cologne is most likely selling trash anyway. Boy's braggin' about some capitalist remarketing harbor freight rods 😂😂
@@dusty1498 We most certainly do reoresent lincoln electric. Proudly. but I like cool welding stuff as much as the next guy. I mean, id like to see it!
My dad welded trough rust with his 160A AC buzzer and dirty old most crapy cheap rubbish trash find 6013 sticks.
All those machines, shelves, doors, fences are still there and working today….
The reason why you had porosity in the fcaw is because you were pushing, you always want to pull when using a process that deposits slag, only push when doing uphill fcaw or smaw or mig and tig, otherwise you wanna drag, you wouldnt push a 7018 rod would you?
Yeah if you havd rust, just turn the welder right up to
"Tim the Toolman" 😎
I always love your content, but sometimes when you demonstrate various processes you sometimes use less than decent consumables to demonstrate or make a point about a particular process, in this case, Dual Shield wire that has been improperly stored. Even if the weld was meticulously prepped to bright shiny metal, then welding it with crappy DS, the weld is going to look like crap. What’s the point? Sometimes you’ve got to do/use what you gotta do/use. I think the majority of your viewers are striving to learn/improve their welding, and the majority are going to be using reasonably decent affordable consumables. If your point is to demonstrate how using crappy consumables affects your welds, then by all means do a video demo on crappy consumables or poor prepared materials.
In this video, the materials you chose to weld on were a perfect choice to demo what various welding processes can do when you have no choice but to weld through rust, but using old crappy dual shield wire didn’t reflect what dual shield is good at.
I would really like to see what a decent affordable Dual Shield wire can do in a case like this. Also, DS is an “Odd Duck” where it is counter intuitive to turn up the wire feed speed and a bit of voltage to put the wire in its optimal performance range. In this case, for 0.045 DS wire, I would set voltage 24-25 volts and 350-375 wire feed speed. In my experience this allows the wire to approach “Spray MIG” like performance/penetration with no manipulations and it produces nice flat welds with no worm tracks. Jody Collier of “weldingtipsandtricks” has a great video of contrasting DS wire feed speed settings with Cut & Etch titled “Dual Shield Flux Core Welding and Evolution Dry Cut Saws”.
I apologize if this seems overly critical of your work, it’s not, I say it with upmost respect and appreciation of your content and teaching style, especially the humor.
Thank You
6011 for rusted materials, it will burn right through anything.
they don’t call it the farmers rod for nothing.
Whoever said dual shield fluxcore can run through rust, mill scale and paint are liars. I’m glad you got porosity on this test to prove my point. I know you want to blame the wire but I think you are chasing your tail on that logic. Clean wire to dirty material is not how this works.
Solid MIG wire with CO2 works great as the CO2 has great dig.
I love my gasless fluxcore but then again I weld out in the front yard not in a shop
@@jamesray9009 I agree . Tig has its place, but it ain’t outdoors for sure. “Farm” welding calls for flux or stick. Both are portable and work outside and on rusty metal.
The garbage I end up wrenching on, I NEVER clean their trash before I weld it up. A bigger bead beats better prep EVERY time.
what that trailer look like tho ? next video ?
We weld through mill scale at school with stick, nothing else tho
6013 always
Oh man pushing slag with flux core and blaming it on the wire hurts my feelings. And I learned to weld 6010 uphill on this channel 🥺 my dude can you correct this I wanna respect my mentors
I thought pulse mig used 90/10
How many volts will a 110 stick welder produce
How thick of metal can you weld on 110
The machine will certainly matter. Working off of 110 will certainly decrease your results. I can’t give a good number but if all you have is 110 I’d say 1/4” is your max to be safe
I run flux core up to 1/8 inch on 110VAC welder. Any thicker than that I grab my 240VAC machine. 16.5 volts at 200IPM is about the limit on a 110 machine.
@ did I ask about FCAW
About 80a and 27-30 volts is your max. It's CC (constant current) so your voltage will be determined by your rod and arc length. Some (expensive) 110 machines can run 6010, some can't, it all boils down to if the machine can push the cumulative wattage needed to run the rod you're using.
That being said, stick to 3/32'' 7018, and max your amperage out. You'll be running a little cold at 80, and probably just right at 90a. You can easily weld 3/16'' and 1/4'' steel with 80 and 90 respectively, and once you start moving up in thickness, bevel and preheat your plates.
@@YR7A so as the plate thickens prep is vital for the smaller machines
When I first started welding my Forman/fitter would make me weld on rust, paint, and slag. Then berate me for my welds. They were junk jobs but now I dont put up with that anymore.
Yeah man not for me ether 😂
My guess before watching the video is stick will perform the best, and tig will perform the worst.
We were very surprised by the results ourselves
What about just flux core, not dual shield?
You missed fluxcore and gas combined
6010 does the best
It would be cool to do half with rust, then half cleaned up
supra 6012 lincoln electric en esab goldrocks 3.25 mm good for old steel with rust
I've done tons of mdf painting. Hand down the best thing to do to make it go smoothly is seal all cut edges and surface with shellac. It seals so easy and if you don't it'll need more than 2 coats of latex primer.
I genuinely expected the tungsten to shit itself and, I dunno... Explode?
You forgot the best method, oxy acetylene.
Oooooo haven’t heard her name in years 😂😅
Yeah, and after “welding” with oxy-acetylene, regarding enormous heat input, result is the joint that is extremely questionable regarding mechanical properties.
Personally, I PROHIBITED use of this w.p. everywhere I was, as I.W.E. In charge.
Oxy-Fuel: Ok...I'll just sit here....nobody cares about me. :(
Why didn't you use a 6013 on that rusty crap?
My dude did you just push flux core? It's not mig you drag it at like a 15° angle like stick bro. I never even tried pushing slag but dang that would have to make a mess 🫠
shielded flux core , using c10 gas .......
I get it, but it is farmer Dan welding. It's a patch, not a weld. The sad truth is most patches become welds. That's why welders stay in business.
Could you get any more blatant with the corporate shilling? Also running that gnarly push angle with dual shield isn't recommended, and I don't think it's a coincidence that there's porosity right where he kept his stick out super tight (under ~5/8'')
6010 5p+
Essentially this is th very FIRST demo of this Everlast 255 MTS whattttttt a BEASTTTTTT of a machine💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽Now I looked at both th New 263PI An this 255MTS similar numbers on th tech specs granted th 263PI has a few more volts is it possible for u to a head to head review on 255MTS vs 263PI please thank u an thank u for all ur great lessons with each video God Bless🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
I don’t like the talking through the respirator. Would rather you did a voice over. Good content.
Would you actually explain your shorts all the comments on the one I watched are either arguing or completely confused if it is a joke, a critique, or you’re actually impressed with the weld. It’s worse than clickbait to make people search through the comments just to figure out what the video means.
Would never sub to a channel that cares so little for viewer experience to give zero context.
Go old school with carbon-arc and oxy-acetylene (*welding* not brazing)...
Junk welders weld through rust. always clean it
👀👍🇮🇪⚓
Do stick on a normal machine.... gee who needs all those bells and whistles.... confusing shit.....
One camera per presenter. Multiple angles are a gimmick in my opinion. Stand on your content, not koolkid camera tricks.
Amigo, você sabe se os EUA vendem a everlast 275 para o Brasil? E se vendem para o Brasil, como posso comprar uma???????