The method I normally use is to get frozen to the pin, get burned by the casting, jamb up the press, and then knock the whole setup on the floor. Good finish on yours!!
It’s always best to heat the whole part in a something like an oven rather than localised heating. When heating with a torch the expanded material close the centre has nowhere to go since the outside of the part is still relatively cool this can sometimes make the bore smaller!. In this case it was the underside that must have had a heat induced taper. I love your videos and never see you make a mistake without explaining your reasons for/against afterwards. I work for a UK based engineering company with 14 years tool based experience, just passing on some knowledge an old timer kindly/angrily gave to me
True. Judgement is used as to how best heat it. Cracking on cool down is a big issue with localized heating of hubs with spokes. (Not applicable to this repair) Really old flywheels had curved spokes to address the cool down issue before they figured out how to make the straight spoke castings cool after casting without cracking a spoke. I have lost a few spoked pulleys by only heating the hub. They make a loud bang when they crack a spoke during cooling.
We have an older Ken more self cleaning wall oven. On really difficult pieces we can leave it in over night and freeze the pin the next morning. Press it in and put it back in the turned off oven and let it cool down in there.
Watching shrink fits gives me the hives. That moment when it suddenly won't budge any further and I fall off my chair. Glad it worked well, Josh. Good repair, as always.
@@scottcates I have. Lol. When you gotta get to the bathroom, and needed to finish the finishing pass you were in. Saw a guy not make it in time and crapped himself.
In my shop we have a freezer that is -100°. It's made for the medical field. I also found out when press fitting you cool or heat one side not both. It tends to fight each other when heat and cool.
It's always good to be able to repair expensive parts and save customers a fortune as opposed to them buying a new part. It also works when the part is no longer available, as it saves an old machine so they don't have to spend an even bigger fortune to replace an expensive machine.
Thanks for not skipping over routine metal working. Also, mentioning the type or class metal used for various jobs would help us novices better understand what metal holds up best for particular applications.
Hi Josh, Twin Sticks renovates old American trucks, I referenced him because of the beer comment you made, Kurtis however is a very good Aussie machinist and well worth a watch.
I had to quit watching Kurtis. Between the theatrics and sloppy workmanship I was seeing, I just can't respect him anymore. I'm happy for his success, but he is not as good as everyone thinks. If you want great Australian machinists, max Grant of the Swan Valley Machine Shop, and Matty's Workshop are both highly skilled and do amazing work. No theatrics, no sloppy work, just real good machinists.
That went great actually. I thought 3 thou was a pretty heavy interference when you were talking through the parts - but the beauty is that it isn’t ever coming out of there. Handy to have the press close by. ✌️👍 We did a similar one at work and unfortunately got stuck half way. The bastage wasn’t going in or out, so we had to start over and machine the pin out. Bummer.
Well done Josh. Every machinist that I watch has a “Whew!” moment when the interference fit is done. Good to see your preparation and urgency for the s*** moment. Good job bringing us along in the moment.
At the plant i worked at we did a LOT of shrink fit repairs. They were all nail biters. Some went wrong. That sucked because production was down on that machine. I have had a pin like that upon cooling crack the bore. That sucked. It was a big repair. I dont drink but i almost started that day. I was the shop supervisor and ALL eyes were on me. I'm glad I'm retired.....LOL! Cheers Terry
be able to bring back in service an obsolete piece of machinery is priceless. excellent job 3 thou interference on a such small diameter is in fact a tight shrink fit so it needs a dry ice cooled pin in a 500 degree F bore, I had to a very similar assembly and to my experience, it is a good idea to increase as much as possible the bore temperature to gain a bit of lattitude in the assembly process. excellent video
My father was doing plumbing in a commercial kitchen and someone knocked over a large oxygen tank and broke off the stem which than it became a torpedo. No one was hurt as it went through a wall thank God . Please chain up your bottles. I was just watching random videos enjoyed yours but noticed your gas bottles not secured.
@@dominicmartocci6478 yep, I've seen the results of a co2 bottle head blasting inside a moving car on a hot day. Luckily was at vehicle center, chopped off gear shift, went through and damaged the engine, but driver was unharmed, his hands were on the wheel at the moment. The word was it was overfilled and thread went due to heat...
At the start of my career I worked in a lab where we did safety testing. Someone left a high-pressure tank (nitrogen ?). It fell over, the valve broke off and it went through a concrete block wall.
Morning Josh, Wow, talk abt a coincidence.....the both of us are repairing a farm related item this week. Mine is turning and threading a piece of 4140 as the static bottom stub anchor shaft on a 3 point hitch for a 1963 JD 1010 cultivator tractor...its a part unobtanium any more....not one of my usual fixes but a friend needed one asap.....weather here is great, all except for the frigging black flies......and you know the saying.....Black Flies Matter...LOL.....nice fix....great work. Loved it !!!!! Don
I saw your name in the comments over at snowball's channel, he did this exact repair today. Interesting to see the different methods used. As my dear old Granny used to say there's more than one way to skin a cat ✌️
Josh: You do a great job of videoing this. You show the machining from more than one angel. This does help understand what is going on. Always enjoy your videos & work. I always say "YOU HAVE TO HAVE THE RIGHT TOOLS FOR THE JOB" Being good at it always helps. You do have the talent!!
Great work, and I'm surprised it only cost a few hundred $$! Great deal for the customer. I love that you repair things at a huge savings, and not to mention the value of the downtime you save your customers! Well done, as always.
Great job keeping the farmers farming. It is a shame how quickly parts become obsolete, but a win for us. Thanks for sharing. I use my co-axial indicator the same way. manually turning speed, just nice not to be jumping behind the mill to read regular indicators.
congrats on the 100k, been here since like 5k if i remember correctly, thanks for the content, love the cool stuff like shrink fits and whatnot, cheers buddy
Well, from this video, I learnt to be prepared for the worst when doing a shrink fit. When I have my next one to do, I think I’ll set it up in the press, just in case. Thanks for the lesson.
I’ve had that same problem with press and shrink fits. Often the problem is not enough heat. I’ve almost switched completely to Loctite retaining compound now. Glad you got that sucker in there.
Those coax indicators are a pain to use. I always use the good old edge finder to find center. It works better and easier. Most people don’t know this, but it will find the edges of holes and pins just as accurately as it does linear edges. I use it all the time to find center by zeroing one side of the circular feature and the distance to the opposite side, then splitting the difference. It’s much easier if you have a DRO.
Thanks for the video. I know it takes extra effort to make the video while working. I am not a machinist, so watching your videos is like the first day of school for me. I know that there are different kinds and grades of steel but I do not know how to determine what it is unless it has a tag. I am glad that the shrink fit worked out. I sure do admire your skill. I am glad that you were able to help this guy and save him some money. It is always good to see you. I hope Rocky is doing good.
Great video Josh, you always do cool stuff. Takes me right back to my farming and boiler making days for steam trains, traction engines as well, in fact anything that needed a boiler.
Good one Josh . Plan B is always the press , preferably close by ! I like that boring head , although it is completely different to the D'Andrea i used to use . That had 3 speed feed & rapid return traverse . Cheers 👍
I like the dry ice production. I've used gas grills, ovens, and salamander heaters to warm the part. Shrink fitting is the best! We all need a little excitement now and then!
I've done a few sweat fits with the fire extinguisher dry ice method. They are pretty uneventful when they go right, and quite frantic when they dont 😂
Repair machining is easily the most fun and will remain necessary even with automated production. My (rich, successful) machine shop ownerbro makes great money taking tire manufacture machine parts shipped from Europe and fixing their (many) problems properly. The company is happy because they don't have to play vendor tag and he turns out the work promptly and to spec.
I enjoyed watching this repair. My best experience with a precision shrink fit was on the cutter head for an asphalt milling machine. It was 3-15/16 dia. And about 5” long. The interference was 5-1/2 thou so I specified dry ice and heat to 300 deg. F. Because of the bore length we set the parts up in a 30-ton press just in case, which turned out to be good thinking. There was definitely a bit of pucker factor as temperatures try to equalize quickly. Those dry ice fits sometimes make interesting sounds when seating. Thanks for sharing this one.
I used to do some similar sized ones. Since LN2 is not readily available here,dry ice is the best bet. We always went to 400° for safety. Needed the press one time.
I you went to some of these Dutchmen farmers in Machester,Mi when the job was done they would have given you some home made wine or Hard cider. Great vids Josh
Nice job Josh. Quality fix. That aint never coming out ! By the way, my co-axial indicator was the best investment i ever made. It has saved me SO much time over the years. They are expensive but worth it. Cheers from Canada.
You got extremely lucky, I would suggest the next time you have a similar job,and it’s going to require a ( cold/ hot ) press fit, do it on the press. If you don’t need it,bonus, if you do you’re not in a panic dashing across the shop.
Good job, Josh. I mainly work for farmers and get jobs like this all the time, repairing something not available or very costly. Enjoy watching your videos.
For a second I thought you were not going to get it seated. The boring bar extending out may have also gave you a very small taper for that last depth. Was fun back in the day for rebuilding the variable speed sheave with worn pin and holes for a combine.
Hahaha- could tell when the oh sh!! - moment hit, when it stuck on you, and you got that adrenaline rush, and ran to the press, you had to yank on it pretty hard, but she went, glad it worked out. Another amazing job, and a very happy customer I’m sure for that savings!!!! 👏👏👏
Awesome video! extremely cool shop! I had a part made in Detroit mi and got a tour of the shop blown away at what they could make. Machinists are so talented.
Refreshing and motivating to see a “true life repair” of a valuable piece of machinery. I guess I’ve watched too many videos of machinists making “tools and toys.” I have enjoyed most of those, but this is really what it is all about!
I enjoy watching a machinist work. The machined metal looks good. An excellent job. I have a friend that has an automotive machine shop. I enjoy watching him as well. A great video sir. 😊
Big thing about using dry ice vs LN2 is -109 degree F vs -320 degree F, you only get about one-third of the shrink; gotta keep that in mind. With LN2, the part probably would have dropped right in (at the expense of 2 hours driving to get the stuff). Anyway, nice job there, it's always interesting to see how people approach a problem and get it done.
It would have been 2 hours of driving for dry ice, that is why I make it. LN2 would be 3-4 hours of drive time, making that unacceptable. I can't bill for time and materials to get supplies for a simple job. I wish I could get LN2, it just can't happen here, too depressed of a region.
Just a note about sawing off the pin with a slitting saw, slitting saws are pricey but my favorite alternative nowadays is the 8 inch carbide tip blades they sell for metal cutting skilsaw type saws. They are cheap like 40 bucks and less kerf, I have one on an R8 arbor I use all the time for cutting down pieces too short to hold in the bandsaw, slotting, or even have used it in the angle head for cutting plate clamped down to the table. Works great and in 4 years now I am still on the first saw blade of the 2 pack I bought!
@@TopperMachineLLC Specs please .. Brand name, tooth count, RPM's, feed speed and depths, lube type, etc .. This could be a great video with a chalk talk about the blade and how to figure out the right settings for different materials. I wonder if any blade companies are brave enough to sponsor it with their product featured in the action shots
I would start by setting the boring head on a piece of sacrificial material before setting up the part to machine, it may need a little tweaking per the tool pressure vs different material, but it can save a little chatter or taper.
One of these days I need to pick up a lathe and a mill, I don’t do anything nasa precision, but I need the ability to turn rotors, drums, cut wheel centers, mill heads, bore cylinders and cases on atvs. Luckily all those tasks have a higher tolerance for small inaccuracies. The biggest problem is finding a used lathe with at least a 14” swing that isn’t 12’ long
That was a high stress moment... averted.. Better to set up the press-shrink fit in the press with the press ready to press before heating the part while the stud is cooling off in dry ice. If the stud is even a tiny bit off axis even with a few thousands of clearance the stud will likely get stuck on the way down the hole. More often than not, the press I needed to avert a Oooops and not fun at ll re-do.. There is a tendency for metal to stick when they are close together, this is why clearance alone is not enough. Some means of mechanical aid (force) is often needed to over come this tendency for separate metal parts to wanna cling together.
nice job in the end just only thing the job previous to this one you turned down the outer surface and shrunk fit a bushing over it would this have worked for this job or not just trying to learn is all this is the way i would have done it but all good easy quick job in the end thanks for showing Cheer
This job was definitely a better candidate for replacement than sleeving. Being able to bore and insert the new pin is why I did it this way. Great question
Hi Josh, nice video, Kurtis says that shrink-fitting pins/bushes always give him an anxious moment, and Mark at Twin Sticks Garage always has a Coors beer at the end of his job to help him relax.
I used to watch CEE, but it got too fake and sloppy for my liking. There are a lot of great smaller channels out there that do amazing quality work without all the extra BS.
"Let's see if we can do it in one shot" Wouldn't the balanced-cut method be less risky? Split the difference and take it in 2 cuts, about half. Tweak the 2nd cut based on the results from the 1st cut. It would take some of the uncertainty out of the process, whether from the boring/facing head, deflection, or shop gremlins. Same for the shaft, when you had 0.008 to go. Instead of taking 7 and 1, cut 3.5 and re-measure. If you're off by 2 10ths, correcting the final cut from 3.5 to 3.3 thou is much more likely to work because deflection and other factors are almost constant. Anyway, thanks for the video.
In my experience it never works that way. Depending on size and material, I know roughly what to plan for cuts. Generally, anything under 0.020 is not accurate due to tool pressure. Also, shallow cuts leave bad surface finishes
Wow! great work, but it's still just a danged old baler. On our farm we would have welded up the worn shaft with 7018, take the hand grinder to smooth it up, measure as you go then take the file to touch it up and bolt the stupid thing together!
Regardless, that design of boring/facing head is pretty cool. I has to be more rigid than the typical R-8 style head being clamped to the quill like that. Probably an indicator to move the tool out on the final cuts would make it pretty accurate. I don't recall ever seeing one like that used on a bridgey. Cool. Nice ice maker! And great repair....Beer is good! cheers 🍻
That pin was so badly worn that I thought the wider end was machined that way. I didn't realize how difficult it is measuring worn parts. I'm enjoying the videos. Reminds me of the machine shop class I took in high school 30 years ago.
I'm not a fan of doing spring cuts when using my own boring head... I run it through and measure the bore... if its stiil a bit small, only then will I do the spring pass... seems to work better for me doing it that way... 🤔 Interesting vid 😎👍☘🍻
I love prototyping and the company I work for has purchased its second 3D printer. A number of my fellow techs have been purchasing plastic and metal 3D printing machines. I am approximately 10 seconds into the video and have very high hopes. I also have a cat standing on me.
I would’ve centered original pin. Drilled hole through. Take piece to big vise and hacksaw old pin off. Then setup using centered hole, drill & bore / ream or whatever you want to do. The new pin I’d make , I’d highly consider designing it to be Silver Bazed on. Or weld, not sure , I’m not there and not attuned to application of that crank wheel.
I used my little Chinee Bailey lathe the other day to make some handles for a mod to another Chinee machine. Was fun but 20 minutes on the lathe and an hour to clean it up.
You introduced a few great new tools today... (At least that I don't recall seeing before).... the coaxial indicator, and the boring and facing head. Both look very useful in these applications! If that pin had've locked in the wrong place before it was set.... what then? I assume that you would have to machine the entire pin out and remake the pin again?
I would have beveled the pin on the back side and welded it also. It's because of the continual forces on the side of the pin that sticks out with the crank arm.
@28:00 I have a question, since you heat the bore locally wouldn't that make the bore smaller? If you would heat the entire part evenly, the bore should expand.
An old trick when installing a shrink fitted shaft is to put a lite coating of high temperature grease on the shaft. It slows down the heat transfer and buys you more time.
I never had a use for the coaxial indicators as I can do it faster with an indicol and interapid. But when I bought a cnc lathe they do work great for aligning drills. Also the slitting saw I wouldn't have thought of. I would have just used a couple drills to remove that. But that saw was fast.
You must have had the camera on the birdgeport table when you were using the slitting saw to take the old pin off. Little bit of chatter combined with the camera frame rate gave an image effect that was better than any hollywood special effect for inducing motion sickness.
Have you ever worked on repairing farm equipment? Share your favorite repair stories or tips in the comments below!
One shrink fit and half a keg of moonshine later we're golden ...very happy lol
The method I normally use is to get frozen to the pin, get burned by the casting, jamb up the press, and then knock the whole setup on the floor.
Good finish on yours!!
Lol, fun fun.
HAHAHAHA that sounds like my method too! 😝
If you're not hurt or bleeding are you really fixing anything?
Been there done that.
It’s always best to heat the whole part in a something like an oven rather than localised heating. When heating with a torch the expanded material close the centre has nowhere to go since the outside of the part is still relatively cool this can sometimes make the bore smaller!. In this case it was the underside that must have had a heat induced taper. I love your videos and never see you make a mistake without explaining your reasons for/against afterwards.
I work for a UK based engineering company with 14 years tool based experience, just passing on some knowledge an old timer kindly/angrily gave to me
True. Judgement is used as to how best heat it. Cracking on cool down is a big issue with localized heating of hubs with spokes. (Not applicable to this repair) Really old flywheels had curved spokes to address the cool down issue before they figured out how to make the straight spoke castings cool after casting without cracking a spoke. I have lost a few spoked pulleys by only heating the hub. They make a loud bang when they crack a spoke during cooling.
We have an older Ken more self cleaning wall oven. On really difficult pieces we can leave it in over night and freeze the pin the next morning. Press it in and put it back in the turned off oven and let it cool down in there.
Watching shrink fits gives me the hives. That moment when it suddenly won't budge any further and I fall off my chair. Glad it worked well, Josh. Good repair, as always.
Always scary.
I never saw a machinist run that fast before.
@@scottcates 😁
@@scottcates I have. Lol. When you gotta get to the bathroom, and needed to finish the finishing pass you were in. Saw a guy not make it in time and crapped himself.
In my shop we have a freezer that is -100°. It's made for the medical field. I also found out when press fitting you cool or heat one side not both. It tends to fight each other when heat and cool.
As someone who owns an old baler, I liked this one.
Check your grease lines. Common problem on these.
It's always good to be able to repair expensive parts and save customers a fortune as opposed to them buying a new part. It also works when the part is no longer available, as it saves an old machine so they don't have to spend an even bigger fortune to replace an expensive machine.
Love you working on old parts!!!
Glad you like them!
Jeez I hated hay bailing when I was young. It would be fun to see the owner's reaction to his machine working quietly for the first time in forever.
I enjoyed it. I agree. I'd love to know before and after sounds.
First time in forever, if ever. Probably the second owner (at least) and the first owner was the one who wore it to hell.
Regardless what is said, it worked, which is the object of the exercise. People seem to forget this is a business, not hobby. Good onya
When it gets stuck before it goes to depth its always a heart racing moment. Glad you got it the rest of the way!
Then it is the panic.. but don't panic and and make it worse.
You earned that "shot" for sure! Awesome work!
A good neighbor to your customers!
Being able to make your own dry ice is nifty. Thanks for the video.
Nifty and essential to what I do here. Closest place to get dry ice is an hour drive away.
Yesterday was a major stressful day here at the shop (auto shop) so it was relaxing watching this today, Thanxx
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for not skipping over routine metal working. Also, mentioning the type or class metal used for various jobs would help us novices better understand what metal holds up best for particular applications.
Hi Josh, Twin Sticks renovates old American trucks, I referenced him because of the beer comment you made, Kurtis however is a very good Aussie machinist and well worth a watch.
I had to quit watching Kurtis. Between the theatrics and sloppy workmanship I was seeing, I just can't respect him anymore. I'm happy for his success, but he is not as good as everyone thinks. If you want great Australian machinists, max Grant of the Swan Valley Machine Shop, and Matty's Workshop are both highly skilled and do amazing work. No theatrics, no sloppy work, just real good machinists.
@@TopperMachineLLC you're wrong.
That went great actually. I thought 3 thou was a pretty heavy interference when you were talking through the parts - but the beauty is that it isn’t ever coming out of there. Handy to have the press close by. ✌️👍
We did a similar one at work and unfortunately got stuck half way. The bastage wasn’t going in or out, so we had to start over and machine the pin out. Bummer.
Ive had that happen before. Makes for a terrible day.
nice unintentional wave effect with combined rolling shutter and vibration.
I've never had one do that before. Actually aggravating when I saw it.
What technically caused that? Was it the frequency of the vibration with the slitting saw?
That must have been scary when the pin got stuck. Great work rushing to the press to get it home.
Well done Josh. Every machinist that I watch has a “Whew!” moment when the interference fit is done. Good to see your preparation and urgency for the s*** moment. Good job bringing us along in the moment.
Thanks for watching
At the plant i worked at we did a LOT of shrink fit repairs.
They were all nail biters.
Some went wrong. That sucked because production was down on that machine.
I have had a pin like that upon cooling crack the bore. That sucked. It was a big repair.
I dont drink but i almost started that day. I was the shop supervisor and ALL eyes were on me.
I'm glad I'm retired.....LOL!
Cheers
Terry
be able to bring back in service an obsolete piece of machinery is priceless.
excellent job
3 thou interference on a such small diameter is in fact a tight shrink fit so it needs a dry ice cooled pin in a 500 degree F bore,
I had to a very similar assembly and to my experience, it is a good idea to increase as much as possible the bore temperature to gain a bit of lattitude in the assembly process.
excellent video
My father was doing plumbing in a commercial kitchen and someone knocked over a large oxygen tank and broke off the stem which than it became a torpedo. No one was hurt as it went through a wall thank God . Please chain up your bottles. I was just watching random videos enjoyed yours but noticed your gas bottles not secured.
@@dominicmartocci6478 yep, I've seen the results of a co2 bottle head blasting inside a moving car on a hot day.
Luckily was at vehicle center, chopped off gear shift, went through and damaged the engine, but driver was unharmed, his hands were on the wheel at the moment. The word was it was overfilled and thread went due to heat...
@@dominicmartocci6478 Safety caps should be kept on when not in use.
At the start of my career I worked in a lab where we did safety testing. Someone left a high-pressure tank (nitrogen ?). It fell over, the valve broke off and it went through a concrete block wall.
just thought I'd come to the comment section & see & sure 'nuff... a cry baby
@@dominicmartocci6478 Many a time, people are simply too lazy to screw the safety cap back on after use.
Morning Josh,
Wow, talk abt a coincidence.....the both of us are repairing a farm related item this week. Mine is turning and threading a piece of 4140 as the static bottom stub anchor shaft on a 3 point hitch for a 1963 JD 1010 cultivator tractor...its a part unobtanium any more....not one of my usual fixes but a friend needed one asap.....weather here is great, all except for the frigging black flies......and you know the saying.....Black Flies Matter...LOL.....nice fix....great work. Loved it !!!!!
Don
I even needed a beer after that pin stuck! glad the press was handy and it worked!
I saw your name in the comments over at snowball's channel, he did this exact repair today. Interesting to see the different methods used. As my dear old Granny used to say there's more than one way to skin a cat ✌️
Josh: You do a great job of videoing this. You show the machining from more than one angel. This does help understand what is going on. Always enjoy your videos & work. I always say "YOU HAVE TO HAVE THE RIGHT TOOLS FOR THE JOB" Being good at it always helps. You do have the talent!!
Great work, and I'm surprised it only cost a few hundred $$! Great deal for the customer. I love that you repair things at a huge savings, and not to mention the value of the downtime you save your customers! Well done, as always.
Great job Josh! A well deserved beer!!
Thanks
I love the fact that you could put your hands anywhere you want and not worry about getting cut by fillings. IE you keep it clean there.
Great job keeping the farmers farming. It is a shame how quickly parts become obsolete, but a win for us. Thanks for sharing. I use my co-axial indicator the same way. manually turning speed, just nice not to be jumping behind the mill to read regular indicators.
I love seeing these sort of repairs. It is good to see how you go about doing them and we learn a lot, thanks
congrats on the 100k, been here since like 5k if i remember correctly, thanks for the content, love the cool stuff like shrink fits and whatnot, cheers buddy
Awesome! Thank you! 👍
PHEW! That was close (to disaster). Nice job, Sir!
Ive had to redo a few before.
Well, from this video, I learnt to be prepared for the worst when doing a shrink fit. When I have my next one to do, I think I’ll set it up in the press, just in case. Thanks for the lesson.
This one was exceptionally tight. Usually no more than 0.002/inch of diameter. I was just over that. Never want it to move.
I’ve had that same problem with press and shrink fits. Often the problem is not enough heat. I’ve almost switched completely to Loctite retaining compound now. Glad you got that sucker in there.
Yeah, good idea.
I learned to have a chaser after a press fit job 🍻
Those coax indicators are a pain to use. I always use the good old edge finder to find center. It works better and easier. Most people don’t know this, but it will find the edges of holes and pins just as accurately as it does linear edges. I use it all the time to find center by zeroing one side of the circular feature and the distance to the opposite side, then splitting the difference. It’s much easier if you have a DRO.
Hey Josh, not a machinist but enjoy and respect your work!
Hey, thanks!
Thanks for the video. I know it takes extra effort to make the video while working. I am not a machinist, so watching your videos is like the first day of school for me. I know that there are different kinds and grades of steel but I do not know how to determine what it is unless it has a tag. I am glad that the shrink fit worked out. I sure do admire your skill. I am glad that you were able to help this guy and save him some money. It is always good to see you. I hope Rocky is doing good.
Thanks. The customer was super happy.
nice job Josh, glad its not just me that finds a coaxial easier to rotate by hand 👍
Great video Josh, you always do cool stuff. Takes me right back to my farming and boiler making days for steam trains, traction engines as well, in fact anything that needed a boiler.
I really appreciated seeing a professional tackle one of the trickiest machining tasks there is.
Good one Josh . Plan B is always the press , preferably close by ! I like that boring head , although it is completely different to the D'Andrea i used to use . That had 3 speed feed & rapid return traverse . Cheers 👍
I'm having a hard time finding this thing. I know there was a unit just like it that I thought was D'Andrea. I could be wrong.
I like the dry ice production. I've used gas grills, ovens, and salamander heaters to warm the part. Shrink fitting is the best! We all need a little excitement now and then!
I've done a few sweat fits with the fire extinguisher dry ice method. They are pretty uneventful when they go right, and quite frantic when they dont 😂
Absolutely.
Repair machining is easily the most fun and will remain necessary even with automated production. My (rich, successful) machine shop ownerbro makes great money taking tire manufacture machine parts shipped from Europe and fixing their (many) problems properly. The company is happy because they don't have to play vendor tag and he turns out the work promptly and to spec.
Nice job, Josh. And nice save! Interference fits give me the jitters. Thanks and looking forward to your next video. Have a good weekend.
Listen to that drilling operation, that has to be so exhilarating to see that amount of metal removal. Very nice@
I enjoyed watching this repair. My best experience with a precision shrink fit was on the cutter head for an asphalt milling machine. It was 3-15/16 dia. And about 5” long. The interference was 5-1/2 thou so I specified dry ice and heat to 300 deg. F. Because of the bore length we set the parts up in a 30-ton press just in case, which turned out to be good thinking. There was definitely a bit of pucker factor as temperatures try to equalize quickly. Those dry ice fits sometimes make interesting sounds when seating. Thanks for sharing this one.
I used to do some similar sized ones. Since LN2 is not readily available here,dry ice is the best bet. We always went to 400° for safety. Needed the press one time.
I you went to some of these Dutchmen farmers in Machester,Mi when the job was done they would have given you some home made wine or Hard cider. Great vids Josh
Nice job Josh. Quality fix. That aint never coming out ! By the way, my co-axial indicator was the best investment i ever made. It has saved me SO much time over the years. They are expensive but worth it. Cheers from Canada.
They are a great tool for any shop. So convenient.
The small one man (person)shop was always the backbone of the machining industry.
You got extremely lucky, I would suggest the next time you have a similar job,and it’s going to require a ( cold/ hot ) press fit, do it on the press. If you don’t need it,bonus, if you do you’re not in a panic dashing across the shop.
I think we've all been there on the press fit..:).. Good job you had the press set up ready to go!
Happy days Josh, turned out lovely, hope you didn't feel too pressed 😂 cheers buddy, a shot well earned
Thanks for taking the time to post this, I always enjoy "repairs" ! Cheers
Thanks for watching!
Loved the video. I could literally feel the stress you were feeling at the press fit. It’s always sketchy….I don’t care who you are. Good job👍🙂
A cold one for you Josh. You earned it!!
Josh, some is a Beer money for you for the press fit extravaganza , Paul in Orlando
Thanks. Definitely needed. Lol
Good job, Josh. I mainly work for farmers and get jobs like this all the time, repairing something not available or very costly. Enjoy watching your videos.
For a second I thought you were not going to get it seated. The boring bar extending out may have also gave you a very small taper for that last depth. Was fun back in the day for rebuilding the variable speed sheave with worn pin and holes for a combine.
Hahaha- could tell when the oh
sh!! - moment hit, when it stuck on you, and you got that adrenaline rush, and ran to the press, you had to yank on it pretty hard, but she went, glad it worked out. Another amazing job, and a very happy customer I’m sure for that savings!!!! 👏👏👏
One beer?? For that save, at least a six pack!! lol
Awesome video! extremely cool shop! I had a part made in Detroit mi and got a tour of the shop blown away at what they could make. Machinists are so talented.
So nice to see a true craftsman at work.
Refreshing and motivating to see a “true life repair” of a valuable piece of machinery. I guess I’ve watched too many videos of machinists making “tools and toys.” I have enjoyed most of those, but this is really what it is all about!
First at 21:25 he said we gotta take off 107 then he said that he was taking off 137 ten seconds later. I dont understand why. Which one was right?
Great job very interesting project and good viewing, thanks.
I enjoy watching a machinist work. The machined metal looks good. An excellent job. I have a friend that has an automotive machine shop. I enjoy watching him as well. A great video sir. 😊
Big thing about using dry ice vs LN2 is -109 degree F vs -320 degree F, you only get about one-third of the shrink; gotta keep that in mind. With LN2, the part probably would have dropped right in (at the expense of 2 hours driving to get the stuff).
Anyway, nice job there, it's always interesting to see how people approach a problem and get it done.
It would have been 2 hours of driving for dry ice, that is why I make it. LN2 would be 3-4 hours of drive time, making that unacceptable. I can't bill for time and materials to get supplies for a simple job. I wish I could get LN2, it just can't happen here, too depressed of a region.
Case and IH are now one,Ford and New Holland are also now one company,but not case New Holland. Nice work BTW.
Just a note about sawing off the pin with a slitting saw, slitting saws are pricey but my favorite alternative nowadays is the 8 inch carbide tip blades they sell for metal cutting skilsaw type saws. They are cheap like 40 bucks and less kerf, I have one on an R8 arbor I use all the time for cutting down pieces too short to hold in the bandsaw, slotting, or even have used it in the angle head for cutting plate clamped down to the table. Works great and in 4 years now I am still on the first saw blade of the 2 pack I bought!
Nice. Great idea, I'll be using this.
@@TopperMachineLLC
Specs please .. Brand name, tooth count, RPM's, feed speed and depths, lube type, etc ..
This could be a great video with a chalk talk about the blade and how to figure out the right settings for different materials.
I wonder if any blade companies are brave enough to sponsor it with their product featured in the action shots
I would start by setting the boring head on a piece of sacrificial material before setting up the part to machine, it may need a little tweaking per the tool pressure vs different material, but it can save a little chatter or taper.
One of these days I need to pick up a lathe and a mill, I don’t do anything nasa precision, but I need the ability to turn rotors, drums, cut wheel centers, mill heads, bore cylinders and cases on atvs. Luckily all those tasks have a higher tolerance for small inaccuracies. The biggest problem is finding a used lathe with at least a 14” swing that isn’t 12’ long
That was a high stress moment... averted..
Better to set up the press-shrink fit in the press with the press ready to press before heating the part while the stud is cooling off in dry ice. If the stud is even a tiny bit off axis even with a few thousands of clearance the stud will likely get stuck on the way down the hole. More often than not, the press I needed to avert a Oooops and not fun at ll re-do..
There is a tendency for metal to stick when they are close together, this is why clearance alone is not enough. Some means of mechanical aid (force) is often needed to over come this tendency for separate metal parts to wanna cling together.
Given that the baler was still working with a shaft chewed up that much, finding the center at 1/1000th is a bit excessive :)
Props to him for his integrity. 👍
I learned to put the heated part on the press table, then try to put the cold part in. Sometimes the press is not needed, but JIC.
nice job in the end just only thing the job previous to this one you turned down the outer surface and shrunk fit a bushing over it would this have worked for this job or not just trying to learn is all this is the way i would have done it but all good easy quick job in the end thanks for showing Cheer
This job was definitely a better candidate for replacement than sleeving. Being able to bore and insert the new pin is why I did it this way. Great question
5:13 Really cool camera effect, part doing the hula!
Nice job Jake!!!!
I’m with you on a beer after a narrow miss!!!
Hi Josh, nice video, Kurtis says that shrink-fitting pins/bushes always give him an anxious moment, and Mark at Twin Sticks Garage always has a Coors beer at the end of his job to help him relax.
I don't watch either of those channels. But I'll have to look up Twin Sticks Garage. I'm always looking for good machinists to watch and work with.
I used to watch CEE, but it got too fake and sloppy for my liking. There are a lot of great smaller channels out there that do amazing quality work without all the extra BS.
@@TopperMachineLLC curious what you find fake about it
"Let's see if we can do it in one shot" Wouldn't the balanced-cut method be less risky? Split the difference and take it in 2 cuts, about half. Tweak the 2nd cut based on the results from the 1st cut. It would take some of the uncertainty out of the process, whether from the boring/facing head, deflection, or shop gremlins. Same for the shaft, when you had 0.008 to go. Instead of taking 7 and 1, cut 3.5 and re-measure. If you're off by 2 10ths, correcting the final cut from 3.5 to 3.3 thou is much more likely to work because deflection and other factors are almost constant. Anyway, thanks for the video.
In my experience it never works that way. Depending on size and material, I know roughly what to plan for cuts. Generally, anything under 0.020 is not accurate due to tool pressure. Also, shallow cuts leave bad surface finishes
The workpiece setup is also interesting, with those machinist’s jacks that you don’t often use, we’ll catch them in another video, I guess.. 🙂
I should have talked about the setup. They were there to help cut vibration.
Wow! great work, but it's still just a danged old baler. On our farm we would have welded up the worn shaft with 7018, take the hand grinder to smooth it up, measure as you go then take the file to touch it up and bolt the stupid thing together!
Regardless, that design of boring/facing head is pretty cool. I has to be more rigid than the typical R-8 style head being clamped to the quill like that. Probably an indicator to move the tool out on the final cuts would make it pretty accurate. I don't recall ever seeing one like that used on a bridgey. Cool. Nice ice maker! And great repair....Beer is good! cheers 🍻
I wish it was more accurate on the dial. Great concept, but poorly executed
Hi Josh & it's is Randy and i like yours video is cool & Thanks Josh & Friends Randy
I love your content. You have really made me want to get back into machining. I might have to setup a little shop. That Bridgeport is top of my list.
I enjoyed watching you work thru some problems
Reminded me of my school days when I was a teenager in the 1960s - we made dry ice that way in physics lessons.
That pin was so badly worn that I thought the wider end was machined that way. I didn't realize how difficult it is measuring worn parts. I'm enjoying the videos. Reminds me of the machine shop class I took in high school 30 years ago.
Shot and a beer, AKA Boilermaker nice touch!
I'm not a fan of doing spring cuts when using my own boring head... I run it through and measure the bore... if its stiil a bit small, only then will I do the spring pass... seems to work better for me doing it that way... 🤔
Interesting vid 😎👍☘🍻
I love prototyping and the company I work for has purchased its second 3D printer. A number of my fellow techs have been purchasing plastic and metal 3D printing machines. I am approximately 10 seconds into the video and have very high hopes. I also have a cat standing on me.
Always an education watching your videos.👍
Congratulations on 100k. Good job on the part too.
Thank you so much 😀
I would’ve centered original pin. Drilled hole through. Take piece to big vise and hacksaw old pin off. Then setup using centered hole, drill & bore / ream or whatever you want to do. The new pin I’d make , I’d highly consider designing it to be Silver Bazed on. Or weld, not sure , I’m not there and not attuned to application of that crank wheel.
I used my little Chinee Bailey lathe the other day to make some handles for a mod to another Chinee machine. Was fun but 20 minutes on the lathe and an hour to clean it up.
You introduced a few great new tools today... (At least that I don't recall seeing before).... the coaxial indicator, and the boring and facing head. Both look very useful in these applications!
If that pin had've locked in the wrong place before it was set.... what then? I assume that you would have to machine the entire pin out and remake the pin again?
I've had them get stuck and yes,bore it out and start over. It's never fun.
I would have beveled the pin on the back side and welded it also. It's because of the continual forces on the side of the pin that sticks out with the crank arm.
Nice one josh for a big guy you can move pretty fast 👍👍👍👍
When I have to.
@28:00 I have a question, since you heat the bore locally wouldn't that make the bore smaller? If you would heat the entire part evenly, the bore should expand.
I found the follow-up just now, my bad! See: watch?v=XjmwHyz3kwk
An old trick when installing a shrink fitted shaft is to put a lite coating of high temperature grease on the shaft. It slows down the heat transfer and buys you more time.
thanks for the tip!
I never had a use for the coaxial indicators as I can do it faster with an indicol and interapid. But when I bought a cnc lathe they do work great for aligning drills. Also the slitting saw I wouldn't have thought of. I would have just used a couple drills to remove that. But that saw was fast.
You must have had the camera on the birdgeport table when you were using the slitting saw to take the old pin off. Little bit of chatter combined with the camera frame rate gave an image effect that was better than any hollywood special effect for inducing motion sickness.
Yeah, I wasn't too happy about it. Didn't even consider that possiblity. I will know for next time.