After months of experimentation with different leaded solders, I find 330c to be about perfect. Rapid wetting without burning off flux. I solder mostly terminals and turrets and such with wire 20-14awg. I use a 4mm chisel. I think Hakko t12/t15 needs a tiny bit higher temperature because the tips have thicker plating for durability, and slightly reduced thermal performance.
@@Verightess because in proper soldering the tip doesn’t melt the solder, it’s heating the surface to be soldered, which melts the solder. This is why one solder maker recommends tip temperature of 120c-160c higher than solder melt temperature.
I'm a beginner, as of this writing. Had a weird experience with my first time using a variable temp station (Weller WE1010). I didn't notice it was set to Fahrenheit out of the box, so set it to 350C, based on this video. Initially, it seemed to work OK, but after desoldering 1.5 joints, it stopped melting solder. That's when I noticed it was set to Fahrenheit so I adjusted accordingly and the rest of my first job went very well - saved an old motherboard from a barrel battery before it leaked (2 more to go that have leakage). I'm guessing the reason it stopped working at first, is because I was drawing too much heat out of an already barely-hot-enough iron, between working the joints & cleaning the tip.
Thank You for Your Information. I'm trying to fix my RCA Tablet by simply removing the Battery Connections and allowing it to discharge the capacitors and all by depressing the power button. It froze on the RCA Start-up Logo and I tried Everything I could find on anything from Factory Reset to trying to allow the Battery to run completely out but when I plugged the charger back in, the Battery shows it still had 60% charge left in it. SO, I popped open the case and realized I have a Soldering Station that displays Celsius NOT Fahrenheit. I really Appreciate Your Tutorial and look forward to more of Your Video's!! Sincerely, J Quinn
Yes, most likely. But depends on your tip thickness and the size of the joint you want to work on. If you want to be sure, start low. And if the joint is not melting, increase the temperature until it does.
Thank you. Would you please tell us, how to make sure that the tip has the same temperature as indicated on the base switch. In other words, if I set my base to 350 how do I make sure my tip isn't 200 or 500? Thanks again.
There are soldering testers/thermometers such as Hakko FG-100 or 191. Just place the hot tip on the sensor and it measures tip's temperature. Most soldering stations nowadays support calibration so you can set the offset to make it display the real temperature.
The problem with that is that it still won't show you actual tip Temperature, since its not sensing off the tip, and is designed to give you the output average. The tip Temp drops drastically under load, and the readout you have won't show it. There is no way, except to wire the tip itself with the Thermocouple. Almost all your temp variations are in the tip itself.
After months of experimentation with different leaded solders, I find 330c to be about perfect. Rapid wetting without burning off flux. I solder mostly terminals and turrets and such with wire 20-14awg. I use a 4mm chisel. I think Hakko t12/t15 needs a tiny bit higher temperature because the tips have thicker plating for durability, and slightly reduced thermal performance.
Why would you solder @ Twice the melting point of most 60/40 solders?
@@Verightess because in proper soldering the tip doesn’t melt the solder, it’s heating the surface to be soldered, which melts the solder. This is why one solder maker recommends tip temperature of 120c-160c higher than solder melt temperature.
I solder with temperature 300°C with flux already on the solder and it's working very good
I'm a beginner, as of this writing. Had a weird experience with my first time using a variable temp station (Weller WE1010). I didn't notice it was set to Fahrenheit out of the box, so set it to 350C, based on this video. Initially, it seemed to work OK, but after desoldering 1.5 joints, it stopped melting solder. That's when I noticed it was set to Fahrenheit so I adjusted accordingly and the rest of my first job went very well - saved an old motherboard from a barrel battery before it leaked (2 more to go that have leakage). I'm guessing the reason it stopped working at first, is because I was drawing too much heat out of an already barely-hot-enough iron, between working the joints & cleaning the tip.
Thank You for Your Information.
I'm trying to fix my RCA Tablet by simply removing the Battery Connections and allowing it to discharge the capacitors and all by depressing the power button.
It froze on the RCA Start-up Logo and I tried Everything I could find on anything from Factory Reset to trying to allow the Battery to run completely out but when I plugged the charger back in, the Battery shows it still had 60% charge left in it. SO, I popped open the case and realized I have a Soldering Station that displays Celsius NOT Fahrenheit. I really Appreciate Your Tutorial and look forward to more of Your Video's!!
Sincerely, J Quinn
I always go with the temp solder lead recommend a, everythime I try 300c it always lifts up the pcb pads
u got my support from jamaica
my t12 iron degrading too quickly if I soldering with temp higher than 300 Celsius
very practical advice. thanks
Awesome!! So would you use 350 to 400 degrees Celsius for soldering on a wii motherboard?
Yes, most likely. But depends on your tip thickness and the size of the joint you want to work on. If you want to be sure, start low. And if the joint is not melting, increase the temperature until it does.
Just mix solder joint with low melt solder to desolder components at a lower temp of 160 to 200 c on your wii, at 300 you risk lifting up pads
Thanks mate, cleared my question perfectly......
Thank you. That's the correct answer.
Great question to answer, thanks for the video!
Thank you. Pretty good explanation.
Thank you.
Would you please tell us, how to make sure that the tip has the same temperature as indicated on the base switch.
In other words, if I set my base to 350 how do I make sure my tip isn't 200 or 500?
Thanks again.
There are soldering testers/thermometers such as Hakko FG-100 or 191. Just place the hot tip on the sensor and it measures tip's temperature. Most soldering stations nowadays support calibration so you can set the offset to make it display the real temperature.
The problem with that is that it still won't show you actual tip Temperature, since its not sensing off the tip, and is designed to give you the output average. The tip Temp drops drastically under load, and the readout you have won't show it. There is no way, except to wire the tip itself with the Thermocouple. Almost all your temp variations are in the tip itself.
Perfect, just want i needed. Subscribed and Liked,
500 Fahrenheit... 😳. For pcb..., 260 Celsius..., and a. 02mm soldering wire... 😳
For weldering iron that has no temperature gauge how to determine temperature
If your soldering iron does not have a temperature reading, you don't need to determine temperature. Just use the temperature it has.
@@Ohmify so,how do you know if it's hot engh to be used to solder
@@MakhonzaSimani You just try. If the solder doesn't melt, wait a little bit longer.
You can use 1 dimmer control pub
I'm glad to hear that =)
Reading verbatim, why would anyone need you?
I swear if i see another joker soldering @ 700+F I'm going to loose it
When working with a small tip and non-leaded solder, sometimes you have to set your soldering iron that high. Sorry to burst your bubble.
Jank