I really appreciate the way you explain things. You explain the "why" and not just the "how." It allows me to understand why things are done, and not just blindly copy how someone did it without understanding. It's very helpful and valuable for someone like me. Thanks again.
Close to 2 years, Venturing to klipper has remained a wishful thinking. With your tutorials it’s no longer. I have researched and tried sooo many tutorials. Yours is the best approach , lighting, voice etc. . Thank you!
Another useful , informative video. . Its the software side of 3d printing that often finds me at a loss . The fact I can see your PC screen up close with an explanation of the definitions in the config file make for a great tutorial. Excellent
You've got great timing on this series, as its been concurrent with me building my first DIY (and first Klipper) printer, the Rook 2020 MK1. There's not too much documentation, so thank you for your help! The Rook homes to the top left (eg. mine homes at x117 y131 and z118.7), so the movement in your macro moves the wrong way; all the way back to zero. Edit: I had some adventures trying relative positioning, then had trouble finding where the endstop variables were kept, but finally got there with something like this: {% set safe_x = printer.configfile.settings.stepper_x.position_endstop - 5 %} ... G0 X{ safe_x } F1200 Klippper is great, but every feature is an adventure!
I recently done it (X and Y) in my rebuilt Anycubic Mega X (bedslinger) with a Manta M8P+CB1 . Saved me a lot of trouble , as there were less wiring needed to be redone. As long as it is properly tuned, it works like a charm, I have never had a false positive on homing after tuning it properly. In my printer I´m running with 75 for SGTHRS on both axis, and 0.800 run_current on X and 0.850 on Y (it´s a big heavy bed, 300x300). Now I´ll do it again on my other printer which will be rebuilt (this one gave me a lot of trouble with the stock electronics, but it´s frame is decent enough for a rebuild), a Brazilian made CoreXY (Sethi3D Farm), which has a single Z axis (no need for dual drivers for that axis) and will be using a SKR Mini E3 V3 with a MKS Pi for running Klipper. Wiring first, then programming. Will use sensorless only on X and Y as well. For Z I´ll use a CRTouch. Your CoreXY-specific tips on this video will be VERY useful on that rebuild. It´s not something I´d recommend doing in a printer that has endstops working properly (if it works, don´t touch it is my motto, but I don´t follow it, I like to tinker, LOL), but when building a new one from scratch (or rebuilding one) it´s a very useful tool.
outstanding video ❤ i build a rook 3 months aga and i had a lot of issuse with sensoreless homing, did not know how to add a time delay after trigger and used a retract value so the tool head landed on the bed. 😂 got it all figured out now, but i kooked me noodle fore like a month before i got evrything ok (now i know about macros) 🎉 I wish i could watch your video back then (all that info in 1 place)
Yeah I did it last month too. Had broken cables because of the cable chains. Removed all cables and switches, installed Tap mod, can bus and enabled sensor less homing.
Lots of good information in this video, I am almost decided on getting a skipr board as a winter project upgrading my tronxy x5sa. It just so happens that I was wondering about sensorless homing under klipper. I would like a video on running Z on 2 separate stepper drivers and auto leveling.
Chris, watching your videos is becoming a way to get a degree in 3D printing. Great video, but I'm still wondering about the advantage except for the reduction in wiring.
Thanks Dave, I wouldn't say there is a really advantage to it with most firmware at the moment. What I do think we will see is crash detection. When someone make it easer to tune on a more broad set of hardware, we could use stall guard to recover from a crash that may occur.
This method is detecting stalling on one stepper, but on a corexy machine movement in x as well as y will always require both motors to turn together. That basically will make correct sensorless homing less accurate than on something like a bedslinger or cartesian ...
I have a different driver but got this working.. but I'm not sure if it is set right. It does work and doesn't grind.. but it does hit the end of the gantry as with your Y.. but I have a TMC5160, and it's a difference of 5 = doesn't move and 6 = it hits the end. So I don't know how to tweak it more Tho you mention speed, which is a good point (although it's not superfast already).. I'll lower that for my next testing.
@@ChrisRiley thx, yeh got it working but didn't feel stable enough.. So just moved my XY end stops. Belt tension remains a mystery for me. Especially the ab belts (voron 2.4). I just can't get them tight or equal. Best I got is 90% on the tension tool on klippain. I wish there was a guide or tool to keep one of the belts tight while I can pull the other. I have a cnc tap and have to lock in both.
Cool. Is it possible to build an auto Z_Offset with this? I mean sensing first the Z with BLTouch and then the Nozzle with Sensorless Homing to get Z_Offset=Z_Bltouch-Z_Nozzle?
Just got a Sovol SV08 from a coworker. It crashes when it does the sensorless homing on X. I have been looking for answers to specific questions that I had. I should have just looked to see if you had a video.
What about core XZ setups? On the switchwire, could I use sensorless homing on the X axis, but not the Z (use a probe on Z)? How do I setup the diag jumpers for that?
One thing I've observed with my TMC2209's is that the threshold is really impacted by heat. I'm not sure if it's the motors or the drivers, but after a print it becomes too sensitive and is not able to home properly. Although my sensitivity is quite hard with the hardware when homing cold.
Yes, on the 1.4 you have to cut the diag pin on X and Y if you DON'T want to use sensorless homing. If you don't it will conflict with the endstop pin/switch.
Running into homing issues on my BTT-CB1 printer. If you have any free time to dm me I'd greatly appreciate. Just got into the 3d printing world and stumbled across your videos.
Hi bro my 3d printer keeps bumping on the limits without any senseless homing even thoo I set my stg to a different values I'm using TMC 2130 on mks gen l v2.0 on modified corexy tronxy
Duude... I am redesigning my printhead and wondering I could maybe go sensorless. Opened youtube to do some research ... and you posted this 3h ago. Wtf? :D
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
I really appreciate the way you explain things. You explain the "why" and not just the "how." It allows me to understand why things are done, and not just blindly copy how someone did it without understanding. It's very helpful and valuable for someone like me. Thanks again.
Thank you!
chris the community appreciates you- keep it up
Thank you. That means a lot!
Very clear and concise! Well done
Thank you!
Thanks Chris, you always come to the rescue! Your video are much appreciated.
Thank you!
Close to 2 years, Venturing to klipper has remained a wishful thinking. With your tutorials it’s no longer. I have researched and tried sooo many tutorials. Yours is the best approach , lighting, voice etc. . Thank you!
Great to hear! Thank you!
Keep it up chris. These type of videos are a godsend to the open source community. Thanks
Thank you!
Great Video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Another useful , informative video. . Its the software side of 3d printing that often finds me at a loss . The fact I can see your PC screen up close with an explanation of the definitions in the config file make for a great tutorial. Excellent
Thank you!
Even though I don’t plan on building anymore printers, this is still valuable information for troubleshooting.
Thank you Sergio
This video saved me so much time. Thank you! I hadn’t seen the jumper caps mentioned anywhere. Just kept getting errors in my config.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
I'm researching my 2.4 build and this has been very helpful for that. Thanks!
Great to hear, thanks!
Another great video. Thanks for the help Chris
Happy to help!
You've got great timing on this series, as its been concurrent with me building my first DIY (and first Klipper) printer, the Rook 2020 MK1. There's not too much documentation, so thank you for your help!
The Rook homes to the top left (eg. mine homes at x117 y131 and z118.7), so the movement in your macro moves the wrong way; all the way back to zero. Edit: I had some adventures trying relative positioning, then had trouble finding where the endstop variables were kept, but finally got there with something like this:
{% set safe_x = printer.configfile.settings.stepper_x.position_endstop - 5 %}
...
G0 X{ safe_x } F1200
Klippper is great, but every feature is an adventure!
Awesome to hear the videos are helping. I hope to start building a Rook soon, they look like a lot of fun.
this couldn't have come at a better time. just finished building a V0.2 and was having trouble with sensorless homing!
I hoped this helped! Thanks for watching
Awsome work! Just did this last month setting my corexy.
Thank you!
I was just thinking about this last night, great minds.
🙂👍
As always A very good explanation, Keep up the great work !!
Thanks a lot!
Super good explanation and demo. Very compltete and timely for me as I am in the middle of a Voron 2.4 build....
Glad it was helpful!
I recently done it (X and Y) in my rebuilt Anycubic Mega X (bedslinger) with a Manta M8P+CB1 . Saved me a lot of trouble , as there were less wiring needed to be redone. As long as it is properly tuned, it works like a charm, I have never had a false positive on homing after tuning it properly. In my printer I´m running with 75 for SGTHRS on both axis, and 0.800 run_current on X and 0.850 on Y (it´s a big heavy bed, 300x300).
Now I´ll do it again on my other printer which will be rebuilt (this one gave me a lot of trouble with the stock electronics, but it´s frame is decent enough for a rebuild), a Brazilian made CoreXY (Sethi3D Farm), which has a single Z axis (no need for dual drivers for that axis) and will be using a SKR Mini E3 V3 with a MKS Pi for running Klipper. Wiring first, then programming. Will use sensorless only on X and Y as well. For Z I´ll use a CRTouch. Your CoreXY-specific tips on this video will be VERY useful on that rebuild.
It´s not something I´d recommend doing in a printer that has endstops working properly (if it works, don´t touch it is my motto, but I don´t follow it, I like to tinker, LOL), but when building a new one from scratch (or rebuilding one) it´s a very useful tool.
Totally agree with you, it works great to make things simpler, but if it already had endstops I would use them for sure.
10/10 thank you
Good info ! especially about accurate (Home locale) thanks for posting this series Chris.... Stay Extruding !
Thanks, will do!
Great class us usual.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for the video. Help me a lot!!!!
You're welcome!
outstanding video ❤ i build a rook 3 months aga and i had a lot of issuse with sensoreless homing, did not know how to add a time delay after trigger and used a retract value so the tool head landed on the bed. 😂 got it all figured out now, but i kooked me noodle fore like a month before i got evrything ok (now i know about macros) 🎉 I wish i could watch your video back then (all that info in 1 place)
I'm glad you got it going! I'm sorry I was late! 🙂
I just saw the feature on my brand new SKS and was wondering about it. Thanks!
Happy to help
When I added canbus to my Voron I also removed the XY switches and setup senseless homing. 2 of the best things I have done to my printer....
That's great, thanks for watching!
Yeah I did it last month too. Had broken cables because of the cable chains.
Removed all cables and switches, installed Tap mod, can bus and enabled sensor less homing.
Thx! You helped me a lot.
Glad I could help!
Lots of good information in this video, I am almost decided on getting a skipr board as a winter project upgrading my tronxy x5sa. It just so happens that I was wondering about sensorless homing under klipper. I would like a video on running Z on 2 separate stepper drivers and auto leveling.
Thanks, I'll see what I can do!
Chris, watching your videos is becoming a way to get a degree in 3D printing. Great video, but I'm still wondering about the advantage except for the reduction in wiring.
Helps to prevent breaking something if some wiring breaks on an endstop, something blocks your head from hitting it, etc
@@ColinWithaT Thanks makes sense.
Thanks Dave, I wouldn't say there is a really advantage to it with most firmware at the moment. What I do think we will see is crash detection. When someone make it easer to tune on a more broad set of hardware, we could use stall guard to recover from a crash that may occur.
Sensorless homing also prevents test_speed from finding skipped steps
Yes! Thanks!
This method is detecting stalling on one stepper, but on a corexy machine movement in x as well as y will always require both motors to turn together. That basically will make correct sensorless homing less accurate than on something like a bedslinger or cartesian ...
Agreed, core XY is always a little tricky to get consistent.
Great video! How did you get the auto complete to work in your cfg file? Is that mainsail or fluid?
Thanks, this is Fluidd and I have been asked that before. Not sure why it's doing it, I need to investigate if that's an add on of some kind.
I have a different driver but got this working.. but I'm not sure if it is set right. It does work and doesn't grind.. but it does hit the end of the gantry as with your Y.. but I have a TMC5160, and it's a difference of 5 = doesn't move and 6 = it hits the end. So I don't know how to tweak it more
Tho you mention speed, which is a good point (although it's not superfast already).. I'll lower that for my next testing.
Good to hear you got it working. Confirm your belt tension as well, that will change it a bit.
@@ChrisRiley thx, yeh got it working but didn't feel stable enough.. So just moved my XY end stops.
Belt tension remains a mystery for me. Especially the ab belts (voron 2.4). I just can't get them tight or equal. Best I got is 90% on the tension tool on klippain.
I wish there was a guide or tool to keep one of the belts tight while I can pull the other. I have a cnc tap and have to lock in both.
Cool. Is it possible to build an auto Z_Offset with this? I mean sensing first the Z with BLTouch and then the Nozzle with Sensorless Homing to get Z_Offset=Z_Bltouch-Z_Nozzle?
That's an interesting thought, I don't know, but it seems reasonable. I will look into Z sensorless homing further.
Just got a Sovol SV08 from a coworker. It crashes when it does the sensorless homing on X. I have been looking for answers to specific questions that I had. I should have just looked to see if you had a video.
Please let me know how to use the Creality K1 Max LiDar to mesh the bed and level with Klipper
I wish I knew, I don't have a K1.
What about core XZ setups? On the switchwire, could I use sensorless homing on the X axis, but not the Z (use a probe on Z)? How do I setup the diag jumpers for that?
Core XZ is going to be tricky. You could try it, but I think it would be very unpredictable.
Is this the sovol sv08 motherboard?
It might have this board, not sure, but it's the MKS skipr.
One thing I've observed with my TMC2209's is that the threshold is really impacted by heat. I'm not sure if it's the motors or the drivers, but after a print it becomes too sensitive and is not able to home properly. Although my sensitivity is quite hard with the hardware when homing cold.
Good point. This video has been a master class in convincing me to continue to use endstops. :)
Very interesting, I have never ran into this issue, now I will have to test it.
Tell me Chris, the Skr 1.4 turbo board has no diag pins to jumper .. ? is this automatically done or do you have to jumper the endstop pins ?
Yes, on the 1.4 you have to cut the diag pin on X and Y if you DON'T want to use sensorless homing. If you don't it will conflict with the endstop pin/switch.
Running into homing issues on my BTT-CB1 printer. If you have any free time to dm me I'd greatly appreciate. Just got into the 3d printing world and stumbled across your videos.
Hey, let me know how I can help. You can send me an email as well. brotherchris81@gmail.com
Hi bro my 3d printer keeps bumping on the limits without any senseless homing even thoo I set my stg to a different values I'm using TMC 2130 on mks gen l v2.0 on modified corexy tronxy
Do you have an overwrite file in your config that might be causing you config change to not be picked up?
Duude... I am redesigning my printhead and wondering I could maybe go sensorless. Opened youtube to do some research ... and you posted this 3h ago.
Wtf? :D
We planned it that way! Thanks for watching!
How about sensorless homing for delta printers?
That would be interesting
👍
👍🙂
Is this a reel Company
No, LOL.😀
😀
For reel
Thank you for talking me