a hexagonal crimp tool will solve your problem. square terminal=square crimp. Round terminal you can use either an octagonal (not as common) or a hexgonal crimper. ... or pins ha ha. Thank you for the video sir.
Ive been going through this excact dilemma, actually discussed it with many others through forums. But i now believe pins is definitely the best way to connect 4awg to the xs. Thanks for posting
For 30A you don't need to do anything, just bare wire, as the clamp will not damage it. With 50A I've just put the metal sleeve of the right size that fit without cramping. It works as a shield that prevents the screw from damaging the wire. Cramping wasn't needed, because the screw did the job itself.
Would anyone else have preferred it if the unit just had an 8mm stud? When wires get to that size, personally I wouldn’t mind spending a few bucks on lugs and a few minutes with a hydraulic crimper and a heat gun. You’d have a very solid connection, and if you could use oversize wire if you had an unusually long wire run, wanted to get the best efficiency possible, or just had heavier wire on hand.
@@JeffinTD a stud + ringlug is the pro way but then it's not homegamerfriendly because most homegamers don't have hydraulic lug press. the problem is then hackjobbers 'crimp' in a vice and then campers start burning down while you feed 50Amps to the unit. and OF COURSE the unit XY catched on fire (not the hackjob of a vice crimped lug....) thats bad advertisement for company XY even if it's not their fault. idiots make it theirs.
Thanks for this video. It boggles the mind why you wouldn’t keep the same design for a quick upgrade. Do you think you can use the ferrule crimper to crimp the pins? so don’t have to buy a tool just for this job.
Bit worried about the small contact surface between the pin and the charger. Would you be so kind to comment on this? would really appreciate your opinion
Where did you find the heavy gauge pin connectors? I'm installing an Orion xs, and aside from industrial supply shops with very long lead times, I can't find those terminals anywhere. Thinking about maybe using a heavy gauge Andersen terminal instead? Great video, thanks!
I paused at 4:30 in to comment... Victron's Orion manual clearly states that with 4 or 6 gauge wire, you'll need to use a hexagonal crimp ferrule. I do not believe pins are as good as the recommended, properly crimped ferrule. (I'm actually surprised you didn't know(or mention?), other styles of crimping for different styles of terminal connectors).
Hi Guys Bought 4 Lifepo4 105Ah cells from you a year ago and they are working well with a JK BMS. They are in parallel with a year older same capacity 4 Lifepo4 cells and same model JK BMS. During charge and discharge the difference in charge state can be be upto 30%! Say after a days useage 1 battery is at 90% and other is 60% Is there any way of balancing these batteries? Sometimes powered off the newer one to charge older one faster Regards TN
Yes, if you connect the batteries from one battery to the other make the connections to the bank by connecting to the plus terminal of one battery and the minus terminal of the other battery. This will provide more even charging and discharging between them.
@@mariodasilva8729 lead and tin (solder) creeps under pressure and will loosen. so if you did that, retighten the terminals every 6 month at least. some day they will settle and stop creeping but that depends on how 'fluffy' the unsoldered end was prior tinning.
I’ve seen a few people getting confused in these comments so this is to clear up both of these are used due to conductor class find stranded cable needs to have something on it to make a proper connection. What one you use is based on your personal assessment. If you are properly qualified to be installing these you would know the differences so some of these comments you really should be hiring someone to help only because it shows a fundamental lack of understanding on the technical side that isn’t a bad thing but you need to be properly told about it. Is worth knowing that there are lug ferrules
![JK BMS B2A8S20P Detailed Settings [UPDATED]](/img/1.gif)
a hexagonal crimp tool will solve your problem. square terminal=square crimp. Round terminal you can use either an octagonal (not as common) or a hexgonal crimper. ... or pins ha ha. Thank you for the video sir.
Ive been going through this excact dilemma, actually discussed it with many others through forums. But i now believe pins is definitely the best way to connect 4awg to the xs. Thanks for posting
For 30A you don't need to do anything, just bare wire, as the clamp will not damage it. With 50A I've just put the metal sleeve of the right size that fit without cramping. It works as a shield that prevents the screw from damaging the wire. Cramping wasn't needed, because the screw did the job itself.
That was great I will be installing one in the future
Have you tried the JST style ferrule crimpers? You get a termination similar to your pin crimps rather than the square cross section
you'd use the genuine knipex ferrule crimper that does a hexagonal crimp and off you go.
fits in beautyfully !
We've got the hex crimper and still prefer the pins. ;)
@@offgrid_power IMHO those pins are nothing but an unnessecary bottleneck in the cross section. but i'm also only a sparky. what do i know ? 🫠
can't find a knipex crimper that can do 25mm?
Would anyone else have preferred it if the unit just had an 8mm stud? When wires get to that size, personally I wouldn’t mind spending a few bucks on lugs and a few minutes with a hydraulic crimper and a heat gun. You’d have a very solid connection, and if you could use oversize wire if you had an unusually long wire run, wanted to get the best efficiency possible, or just had heavier wire on hand.
@@JeffinTD a stud + ringlug is the pro way but then it's not homegamerfriendly because most homegamers don't have hydraulic lug press.
the problem is then hackjobbers 'crimp' in a vice and then campers start burning down while you feed 50Amps to the unit.
and OF COURSE the unit XY catched on fire (not the hackjob of a vice crimped lug....) thats bad advertisement for company XY even if it's not their fault. idiots make it theirs.
Thanks for this video. It boggles the mind why you wouldn’t keep the same design for a quick upgrade. Do you think you can use the ferrule crimper to crimp the pins? so don’t have to buy a tool just for this job.
Bit worried about the small contact surface between the pin and the charger. Would you be so kind to comment on this? would really appreciate your opinion
Where did you find the heavy gauge pin connectors? I'm installing an Orion xs, and aside from industrial supply shops with very long lead times, I can't find those terminals anywhere. Thinking about maybe using a heavy gauge Andersen terminal instead? Great video, thanks!
Yeah, and Amazon doesn't know jack about electrical connectors, apparently. Searching for pin connectors shows you everything EXCEPT pin connectors.
What’s you opinion on the Clayton LPS2? Still deciding to do victron build or the Clayton.
I paused at 4:30 in to comment... Victron's Orion manual clearly states that with 4 or 6 gauge wire, you'll need to use a hexagonal crimp ferrule. I do not believe pins are as good as the recommended, properly crimped ferrule.
(I'm actually surprised you didn't know(or mention?), other styles of crimping for different styles of terminal connectors).
Hi Guys
Bought 4 Lifepo4 105Ah cells from you a year ago and they are working well with a JK BMS.
They are in parallel with a year older same capacity 4 Lifepo4 cells and same model JK BMS.
During charge and discharge the difference in charge state can be be upto 30%! Say after a days useage 1 battery is at 90% and other is 60%
Is there any way of balancing these batteries? Sometimes powered off the newer one to charge older one faster
Regards
TN
Yes, if you connect the batteries from one battery to the other make the connections to the bank by connecting to the plus terminal of one battery and the minus terminal of the other battery. This will provide more even charging and discharging between them.
When you fit the b2b do you have to also isolate the Sargent trickle charger or can they both run in parallel
You would need to disable the existing split charge in the Sargent.
@offgrid_power is it easy to disable?
How do you disable the Sargent unit
When I don't use ferrules I dip the cable end in flux and coat it in solder, works well with no stray ends!
Don't do this they will become loose with time.
What the other guy said!
Definitely not recommended in a marine application.
@@mariodasilva8729 lead and tin (solder) creeps under pressure and will loosen.
so if you did that, retighten the terminals every 6 month at least. some day they will settle and stop creeping but that depends on how 'fluffy' the unsoldered end was prior tinning.
I’ve seen a few people getting confused in these comments so this is to clear up both of these are used due to conductor class find stranded cable needs to have something on it to make a proper connection. What one you use is based on your personal assessment. If you are properly qualified to be installing these you would know the differences so some of these comments you really should be hiring someone to help only because it shows a fundamental lack of understanding on the technical side that isn’t a bad thing but you need to be properly told about it. Is worth knowing that there are lug ferrules