Great stuff Jo. You can actually make really exact stitches marks using this method and very little math. For this I already begin precise at the first step, when you create your base template using the blend mode. I do this by actually creating a 8 tooth 'digital pricking iron'. For this draw a line of 7 x 3,38 = 23.66mm. Then draw the two 2mm 45 degree lines and align the center of these up with the left and right side of this line and apply the blend mode as you specified (specified steps, 3,38mm gaps, and align to path). Now you have a perfect sample to do the replace spine trick with. To get exact placement on your product create stitch lines that are a multiple of 3.38mm. For example 29 x 3.38 gives you a stitch line of roughly 98mm. Now, if you want 3mm for margins up and down, your leather piece should be 104 to 105mm tall.
That is really cool. I use canva program because for me its free. But I also love Adobe Illustrator as well. That was very educational and helped with designing some of my patterns. ❤ Thank you!
I struggled with this for a long time, but now solved the micro adjustment issue. First I make my stitch line a 'dashed' line with dots at the exact spacing I need (e.g. 3.38mm or 3.85 mm using the appearance > stroke parameters, other tutorials show this methid) . . . . . . . Then I adjust my pattern as needed so that I have the precise dotted stitch line I need (total length of path is multiple of my stitch length). Then finally blend > replace spline that dotted line. If the length of the dotted line is exactly a multiple of the stitch length I need, then the stitch marks ////// fit exactly with no auto fit adjustments.
Great video as always, I use a different software (nanoCAD) to design my patterns. I will be interesting to see if this method can be transferred over.
Hmm...leatherworker, videographer, photographer and now IT trainer - can't help but wonder what other skills your keeping hidden from us Jo😉 I think you right that the amount of stretching/shrinkage between the stitches is not really going to be an issue. It will be proportional to the number of stitches on the path and it can never try to add/subtract more than 0.5 of the distance you have set over the entire path. So for a stitch spacing of 3.38mm the maximum that would be added is 1.69mm spread out evenly over the entire path. Yes, it might get noticeable on very short paths but otherwise I don't think so. Now can you come up with a solution to world hunger and stop mirrors cracking when I look at them 🤣🤣
This is awesome! I have been trying to figure out how to do this for longer than I really care to admit and you made it so easy. Thanks for taking the time out to show us how to do this!
Awesome tutorial, learned a lot aswell...but like you said, this method is a big deal breaker for people ( like me ) who make they templates based on stich spacing, needed especially when stiching those T slots on wallets or card holders. Dude from MAKESUPPLY have excellent Adobe Illustrator tutorial on how to make templates based on stich spacing, check him out...good stuff.
Thank you for showing how to do this. But I do have one question. What if I do not want the crosses on the corners on the square when I do the reflect?
This is super helpful, thanks! One thing i've been pondering is how to create a gusset with stitch holes that correspond to the side panels. Have you managed to figure out a way to mirror the same number of stitches on to the gusset side, or is it a matter of counting them and checking them? Thanks so much for your helpful tutorial!
Great stuff Jo. You can actually make really exact stitches marks using this method and very little math. For this I already begin precise at the first step, when you create your base template using the blend mode. I do this by actually creating a 8 tooth 'digital pricking iron'. For this draw a line of 7 x 3,38 = 23.66mm. Then draw the two 2mm 45 degree lines and align the center of these up with the left and right side of this line and apply the blend mode as you specified (specified steps, 3,38mm gaps, and align to path). Now you have a perfect sample to do the replace spine trick with. To get exact placement on your product create stitch lines that are a multiple of 3.38mm. For example 29 x 3.38 gives you a stitch line of roughly 98mm. Now, if you want 3mm for margins up and down, your leather piece should be 104 to 105mm tall.
That is really cool. I use canva program because for me its free. But I also love Adobe Illustrator as well. That was very educational and helped with designing some of my patterns. ❤ Thank you!
Thank you 😊
This is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you for the information.
Glad it was helpful!
This is great, informative absolutely amazing 👏🏻 👌🏻 THANK YOU...
Glad you like it 👍
I struggled with this for a long time, but now solved the micro adjustment issue. First I make my stitch line a 'dashed' line with dots at the exact spacing I need (e.g. 3.38mm or 3.85 mm using the appearance > stroke parameters, other tutorials show this methid) . . . . . . . Then I adjust my pattern as needed so that I have the precise dotted stitch line I need (total length of path is multiple of my stitch length). Then finally blend > replace spline that dotted line. If the length of the dotted line is exactly a multiple of the stitch length I need, then the stitch marks ////// fit exactly with no auto fit adjustments.
I love Adobe products. Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing.🤗🙋🏻♀️
Glad you like the video 🙂
Thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you!!🤩🤩🤩
Great video as always, I use a different software (nanoCAD) to design my patterns. I will be interesting to see if this method can be transferred over.
Nice one Jo very useful and as always very well presented….……”okay Google convert to Affinity”……… ahummmmmmmm???
Thank you 🙂
Yeah affinity user here also, need to figure out how to do this in designer.
@@thejordanflynn it is not easy!
Thank you so much..this helps a lot..will practice this over and over….
You got this! 👍
thank you for your generosity🤙
No problem 👍
fannnnnnntastic wonderful you've mad my life much easier now a BIG thank you so much
No problem 👍
Hmm...leatherworker, videographer, photographer and now IT trainer - can't help but wonder what other skills your keeping hidden from us Jo😉
I think you right that the amount of stretching/shrinkage between the stitches is not really going to be an issue. It will be proportional to the number of stitches on the path and it can never try to add/subtract more than 0.5 of the distance you have set over the entire path. So for a stitch spacing of 3.38mm the maximum that would be added is 1.69mm spread out evenly over the entire path. Yes, it might get noticeable on very short paths but otherwise I don't think so.
Now can you come up with a solution to world hunger and stop mirrors cracking when I look at them 🤣🤣
🤣🤣 thank you Dave 👍
This is awesome! I have been trying to figure out how to do this for longer than I really care to admit and you made it so easy. Thanks for taking the time out to show us how to do this!
No worries, glad you found it helpful 😁
Foiled! I have no snarky comments on your video today. Thank again for the content 🙏👍
🤣🤣 thank you
Hahaha I tried this morning and as if by chance you released a video the same day, thanks for this little tutorial !
🤣 what great timing!
Bless you!!! Thank you for this video this is super helpful
Glad you found it helpful 👍
Awesome tutorial, learned a lot aswell...but like you said, this method is a big deal breaker for people ( like me ) who make they templates based on stich spacing, needed especially when stiching those T slots on wallets or card holders. Dude from MAKESUPPLY have excellent Adobe Illustrator tutorial on how to make templates based on stich spacing, check him out...good stuff.
Omg you have answered my prayers! I've seen other ways but this seems to be the best and most accurate yet.
👍👍👍👍
Thank you, you are a lifesaver👍🙏
Glad it was helpful 👍
Good job design iam from indonesia ✌
Thank you 🙂
Brilliant!!!
Thank you
i cant' uderstand how yo do the select
I also don't know how to do select 5:37
@@lukasmotycka6146 select the dashes, then hold shift and click the line.
Saludos👍👍👍
Thank you 🙂
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Thank you 👍
Thank you for showing how to do this. But I do have one question. What if I do not want the crosses on the corners on the square when I do the reflect?
So, you can ungroup the line (you may need to ungroup a few times) and then remove the marks you do not want. Hope that makes sense 👍
@@JHLeather That didn't work. I just shortened the line of stitch marks.
This is super helpful, thanks! One thing i've been pondering is how to create a gusset with stitch holes that correspond to the side panels. Have you managed to figure out a way to mirror the same number of stitches on to the gusset side, or is it a matter of counting them and checking them? Thanks so much for your helpful tutorial!
I haven't figured that out yet as I haven't needed that option. I will add it to my list of ideas though 👍
@@JHLeather Ah gotcha! It's puzzled me for ages. Thanks for your reply:)
I just watched this video and the trick for gussets is explained! His trick begins at 15:25. ruclips.net/video/QJKkdOiOmnE/видео.html&feature=share
why do men just show their work and women always show their face
Wonderful tutorial; thank you so much!
Glad it was helpful 👍