Just wanted to add a thank you for he excellent video. With a well explained procedure I was able to get 3 done in an evening after work and the last one done in a couple hours the next morning. A couple notes for any future viewers: First, on my 2006 Aerio SX, the front motor mount (not engine front under the airbox, but front of the engine bay by the radiator) was almost fully enclosed by the bracket that looks different than yours, so I had to remove the two bolts from the front of the center support member to the unibody. Once I did that I was able to pry the support member down far enough to sneak the old one out and get the new one in. The remaining 3 mounts were exactly as shown in your video. Second, on the both the front and back motor mounts, the center bolts were mounted with a nut on the back that would just spin with my ratchet so I had to use something to secure one side while loosening the other. On one I used a pair of vise grips, on the other I was able to sneak another ratchet in. Not sure if you had to do that but since it wasn't mentioned I thought I would add it as a note. Still, a great video, thanks so much!
Almost 4 years later this video helped immensely. I got all the mounts done except the rear though because the previous owner for some weird reason thought it was best to weld the bolt going through the mount was a great idea lol. I have mechanic friends though where i can take it and actually get it on a lift to remove the bolt properly. Thanks so much for making this video man.
I currently own and drive a 2006 2.3L Aerio SX AWD Wagon. I do as well have a vibration issue. And now that I found your video it gave me hope to maybe eliminate the vibration I have been experiencing for years.
Thanks for posting this. Good clear shots and clear explanations of what's going on. You're right not much on Aerio's on RUclips. I'm doing the transmission mount on my 2003 Aerio AWD but everything visually looks the same.
Just got a Liana as a work commuter, and I can feel the stick kicking on changes. Nail the throttle, and the stick rises up and down about an inch as the drivetrain twists under load. Definitely shot mounts. According to Suzuki, there is no such thing as an 1800cc Liana Sedan! Apparently, they reckon im mistaken because the Liana is a 2.3l wagon! This makes sourcing the exact correct parts hard (probably why you had to modify one of your mounts before it would fit!). Anyhow, excellent video showing the exact location of each mount, as well as a few pointers on easiest way to access the bolts.
Got it done. Had to do what you did and grind off the first motor mount so that it would fit. 2nd motor mount, had to bend were the nut goes at the bottom a little bit. (Also mine didn't come out as easy as your did and had to do what you didn't want to do for that mount xD) This mount was by far in the worst condition, it was no longer holding the engine. Once I replaced it, that vibration went away. 3rd, that was straight forward and easy. 4th, was not the same as stock so I had to align the transmission correctly so that it would fit. Checked it and tested it and rechecked it, it's good. I would say allignemtn is key in doing all of these, overall easy fun fix. Thanks for the help.
Alexander What can i do when the transmission mount (esteem 2001, which use the same parts) is not a bolt. Instead what i got is a nut and the bolt is coming out of transmission.So even if I had low the transmission I still need more space from above to take the mount out????
Esteem 2001 have the same engine and transmission and a lot of parts that these two cars have in common, but with that exception. Transmission mount doesnt have a pull out bolt, a pull out nut.
Thanks this was an excellent video. And not only showed what you need to do but what tools were needed. Great job😆 I had already replaced the right side and front and back but I was concerned about the transmission one with that pen. You explained it and help me out. I wish you had included the other Mount I see on the driver's side by the fender well under the battery. Maybe next time. I bought all four mounts at the local Parts House they were really cheap I recommend buying all four and replacing them whether some needed or not. Maybe you can make it video on changing the catalytic converter mine plugged up and the engine had no power and it was pretty simple to change and they really wanted an outrageous price to replace it at the shop I did it for under two hundred bucks.
Thank You. I have a 2009 SX4 and I'm sure your information will be helpful for my job. I replaced the front mount but it still vibrates. I have the right mount on order.
thank you for this ever other video I've seen was a wrong year and different engine set up. I've been working on my gf suzuki and the belt broke due to a seized pulley but in order to get to that pulley must raise or lower the engine so this helped a lot on finding the mount to loosen
One question, on the front right, what is the length of the bushing tube? I want to buy it but there is “two size”… which one fits on Suzuki Aerio 2004 2.3L, is 84mm or 80mm? Or is the same? Thank you in advance.
MrBat000 Thanks so much for posting this video! It’s was a great video and very detailed. Now I know how to change my engine mounts because I wasn’t too sure on how the process worked. Thanks!
Someone put a junkyard engine in your car that explains the numbers on the front of the engine near the passenger side mount under the air box. The factory mount is liquid filled the aftermarket one isnt. Most common failure is the pass side mount under the air box.
The motor mount on the right side it's too wide on my vehicle also I just use the simple hand file and filed it a little bit on each side and it slipped right in. I didn't have any rubber pieces on the side like you did though but my Mount is pretty rotten they probably we're going a long time ago.
I'm swapping one into a 2001 Suzuki Swift\chevy metro lsi 1.3l. I'll be using the hardware from the 1.6 l Suzuki sidekick\ Swift metro 1.0 &1.3 engine with a aftermarket ECU to run everything. Apparently they have aftermarket ecu's that can run the variable valve timing system or at least keep it locked add top dead center combined with being able manually adjust the timing using the sidekick distributor in other parts that apparently interchange along with being able to customize what fuel you wanted to run on and all that good stuff. The swaps been done to quite a few Suzuki Swift and I heard. Yields a very realistic 155 horsepower which I'm guessing is at the wheels and has the same bolt pattern as the 1.3 gearbox bell housing. Which also means it will bolt up to the 1.0 3SPD M.T.X bellhousing which has very high gearing. Like 3800 RPM range at 65 mph. All I know is 1800 lb with 155 horsepower at the wheels will go very fast. I'm building a sleeper. 2001 Chevy Metro \ Suzuki Swift sedan . Since it comes with an automatic I'll probably try to use the old MTX 3 SPD gearbox which can be manually shifted. It's a 3-speed Auto. 13 inch tires instead of 12 to compensate from 3.9 to 4.1 final drive on the speedometer, I figure just put in a really strong aftermarket torque converter along with the exhaust having some sort of cut off valve that you can activate to open header and..... Tiny little car that looks like an innocent Geo Metro sedan but turns out maybe 175 honest real horsepower in a 1900 lb frame with a 3-speed automatic with 1 to 1 finnal drive equivalent to almost 4:11, and a high-performance torque converter so she don't explode. I guesstimate 0 to 60 in a real-world honest 6 seconds if you can get some wide tires to fit around the OEM 13-inch rims. The Chevy Metro I have actually has aluminum disc hubcaps or moonbeam hubcaps like those dragsters that you would see back in the 60s, their front wheels? They look like that. I actually have a set of HR lowering springs that lower it almost 2 in but I haven't installed them yet. Anyways the idea is pull out the OEM motor and all the smog equipment in very carefully store it so I can smog it every 2 years and then swap in this 2.3 l monster powertrain.maybe even get add a aftermarket pizza delivery sign to put on the roof..... That would be awesome to take to Sacramento raceway on Wednesday night. Some guy in his Subaru gets passed by a dinky little Chevy Metro pulling away...... Hilarious. I'm going to do it!
Hey man, i have a 05 Aerio, FWD auto trans. and all the motor mounts i keep finding say for manual for that year. Im wonder if it even matters since they look very similar. Engine spec when finding them are the same as mine. I don't see a difference besides it saying its for a manual.
all you sx4 owners mounts are very simular top right mount causes clunking on bumps not the strut good luck to all you sx4 owners its not a big deal to get these mounts changed
Just wanted to add a thank you for he excellent video. With a well explained procedure I was able to get 3 done in an evening after work and the last one done in a couple hours the next morning.
A couple notes for any future viewers:
First, on my 2006 Aerio SX, the front motor mount (not engine front under the airbox, but front of the engine bay by the radiator) was almost fully enclosed by the bracket that looks different than yours, so I had to remove the two bolts from the front of the center support member to the unibody. Once I did that I was able to pry the support member down far enough to sneak the old one out and get the new one in. The remaining 3 mounts were exactly as shown in your video.
Second, on the both the front and back motor mounts, the center bolts were mounted with a nut on the back that would just spin with my ratchet so I had to use something to secure one side while loosening the other. On one I used a pair of vise grips, on the other I was able to sneak another ratchet in. Not sure if you had to do that but since it wasn't mentioned I thought I would add it as a note.
Still, a great video, thanks so much!
Almost 4 years later this video helped immensely. I got all the mounts done except the rear though because the previous owner for some weird reason thought it was best to weld the bolt going through the mount was a great idea lol. I have mechanic friends though where i can take it and actually get it on a lift to remove the bolt properly. Thanks so much for making this video man.
I currently own and drive a 2006 2.3L Aerio SX AWD Wagon. I do as well have a vibration issue. And now that I found your video it gave me hope to maybe eliminate the vibration I have been experiencing for years.
Daughter just got this car and you can hear it needs new mounts. This is an awesome video. Thank you.
Thanks for posting this. Good clear shots and clear explanations of what's going on. You're right not much on Aerio's on RUclips. I'm doing the transmission mount on my 2003 Aerio AWD but everything visually looks the same.
Well explained without the excessive blah blah blah. Kudos!
Your video Sir, has inspired me to do this job on my 2003 Susuki Aerio!
Your awesome! Thank you.
Just got a Liana as a work commuter, and I can feel the stick kicking on changes.
Nail the throttle, and the stick rises up and down about an inch as the drivetrain twists under load.
Definitely shot mounts.
According to Suzuki, there is no such thing as an 1800cc Liana Sedan!
Apparently, they reckon im mistaken because the Liana is a 2.3l wagon!
This makes sourcing the exact correct parts hard (probably why you had to modify one of your mounts before it would fit!).
Anyhow, excellent video showing the exact location of each mount, as well as a few pointers on easiest way to access the bolts.
Nice job wish you had this video out a year ago!!
Thanks 4 the video bro. I have 01 Chevrolet metro and I haven't been able find video on how change em till now
Got it done. Had to do what you did and grind off the first motor mount so that it would fit.
2nd motor mount, had to bend were the nut goes at the bottom a little bit. (Also mine didn't come out as easy as your did and had to do what you didn't want to do for that mount xD) This mount was by far in the worst condition, it was no longer holding the engine. Once I replaced it, that vibration went away.
3rd, that was straight forward and easy.
4th, was not the same as stock so I had to align the transmission correctly so that it would fit. Checked it and tested it and rechecked it, it's good.
I would say allignemtn is key in doing all of these, overall easy fun fix. Thanks for the help.
Just got to do the stunts. That will be fun :P
Thank you for such a well-explained video, and the effort you put into sharing it. I really appreciate you
Alexander What can i do when the transmission mount (esteem 2001, which use the same parts) is not a bolt. Instead what i got is a nut and the bolt is coming out of transmission.So even if I had low the transmission I still need more space from above to take the mount out????
Esteem 2001 have the same engine and transmission and a lot of parts that these two cars have in common, but with that exception. Transmission mount doesnt have a pull out bolt, a pull out nut.
You Have explain it so well, thank you
Thanks this was an excellent video. And not only showed what you need to do but what tools were needed. Great job😆 I had already replaced the right side and front and back but I was concerned about the transmission one with that pen. You explained it and help me out. I wish you had included the other Mount I see on the driver's side by the fender well under the battery. Maybe next time. I bought all four mounts at the local Parts House they were really cheap I recommend buying all four and replacing them whether some needed or not. Maybe you can make it video on changing the catalytic converter mine plugged up and the engine had no power and it was pretty simple to change and they really wanted an outrageous price to replace it at the shop I did it for under two hundred bucks.
Thank You. I have a 2009 SX4 and I'm sure your information will be helpful for my job. I replaced the front mount but it still vibrates. I have the right mount on order.
thank you for this ever other video I've seen was a wrong year and different engine set up. I've been working on my gf suzuki and the belt broke due to a seized pulley but in order to get to that pulley must raise or lower the engine so this helped a lot on finding the mount to loosen
Thank you so much and keep posted videos about any thing you do on this car is very hard to find any help about this Aerios i have a sedan 06
Awesome vid. Thank you for your time to do this.
You save me 🙌🏽🔥 Respect
My center shaft of the motor mount was to long as well. Didn't have the tools, so I ground it on the sidewalk like a caveman. It took hours..
Thanks for posting this
Excelente video te felicito por lo bien que detallas cada paso a paso asi sale todo bien muchas gracias
De nada
great work and education one!!
very informative but i want to know if a Suzuki sx4 sedan has the same pieces?
One question, on the front right, what is the length of the bushing tube? I want to buy it but there is “two size”… which one fits on Suzuki Aerio 2004 2.3L, is 84mm or 80mm? Or is the same?
Thank you in advance.
Thank you I just did my mounts or. What was left of them
MrBat000
Thanks so much for posting this video! It’s was a great video and very detailed.
Now I know how to change my engine mounts because I wasn’t too sure on how the process worked.
Thanks!
Can you upload one in replacing the ac compressor or just even where it is? I can not find it and need to replace it. Thanks!
If I remove engine mount from the left side do you think it would be possible to drop it down a tad to remove tensioner pulley bolts?
Awesome dude but why did you do it what was complaint. My cv inner axle keeps popping out. Driver side.
@@akqjtn thanks dude will let you know.
Someone put a junkyard engine in your car that explains the numbers on the front of the engine near the passenger side mount under the air box. The factory mount is liquid filled the aftermarket one isnt. Most common failure is the pass side mount under the air box.
Thank-you so much!!!!!!!!!!!! 🤗 you are amazing!!!!!!!!!!!
The motor mount on the right side it's too wide on my vehicle also I just use the simple hand file and filed it a little bit on each side and it slipped right in. I didn't have any rubber pieces on the side like you did though but my Mount is pretty rotten they probably we're going a long time ago.
Hi! What is the name of the part you removed at 2:29 Called? I am trying to order that and can’t find it :(
hi i have a 2008 suzuki sx4 sport, would it be the same? thanks
I'm swapping one into a 2001 Suzuki Swift\chevy metro lsi 1.3l. I'll be using the hardware from the 1.6 l Suzuki sidekick\ Swift metro 1.0 &1.3 engine with a aftermarket ECU to run everything. Apparently they have aftermarket ecu's that can run the variable valve timing system or at least keep it locked add top dead center combined with being able manually adjust the timing using the sidekick distributor in other parts that apparently interchange along with being able to customize what fuel you wanted to run on and all that good stuff. The swaps been done to quite a few Suzuki Swift and I heard. Yields a very realistic 155 horsepower which I'm guessing is at the wheels and has the same bolt pattern as the 1.3 gearbox bell housing. Which also means it will bolt up to the 1.0 3SPD M.T.X bellhousing which has very high gearing. Like 3800 RPM range at 65 mph. All I know is 1800 lb with 155 horsepower at the wheels will go very fast. I'm building a sleeper. 2001 Chevy Metro \ Suzuki Swift sedan . Since it comes with an automatic I'll probably try to use the old MTX 3 SPD gearbox which can be manually shifted. It's a 3-speed Auto. 13 inch tires instead of 12 to compensate from 3.9 to 4.1 final drive on the speedometer, I figure just put in a really strong aftermarket torque converter along with the exhaust having some sort of cut off valve that you can activate to open header and..... Tiny little car that looks like an innocent Geo Metro sedan but turns out maybe 175 honest real horsepower in a 1900 lb frame with a 3-speed automatic with 1 to 1 finnal drive equivalent to almost 4:11, and a high-performance torque converter so she don't explode. I guesstimate 0 to 60 in a real-world honest 6 seconds if you can get some wide tires to fit around the OEM 13-inch rims. The Chevy Metro I have actually has aluminum disc hubcaps or moonbeam hubcaps like those dragsters that you would see back in the 60s, their front wheels? They look like that. I actually have a set of HR lowering springs that lower it almost 2 in but I haven't installed them yet. Anyways the idea is pull out the OEM motor and all the smog equipment in very carefully store it so I can smog it every 2 years and then swap in this 2.3 l monster powertrain.maybe even get add a aftermarket pizza delivery sign to put on the roof..... That would be awesome to take to Sacramento raceway on Wednesday night. Some guy in his Subaru gets passed by a dinky little Chevy Metro pulling away...... Hilarious. I'm going to do it!
Hey man, i have a 05 Aerio, FWD auto trans. and all the motor mounts i keep finding say for manual for that year. Im wonder if it even matters since they look very similar. Engine spec when finding them are the same as mine. I don't see a difference besides it saying its for a manual.
Boost & Shutter already ordered. I'll come back and tell when they arrive. Seems like the transmission is the only one that COULD be different.
Anyone know how to get to the bolts on the rear mount for a 09 sx4 ??? There's a cross member in the way. Thinking of cutting it.
Like very much
no u don't have to remove the bracket I switched it without removeing it on right motor mount use a swivel
Does anyone knows torque specs for the installation? Thank you!
I have Suzuki celerio 2012 Qatar I need engine and gear mounting India how to buy please inform me
Any serial number ?
do 2.3L aerio(s) equipped with VVT?
No
Where you get the mounts
any auto part store carry them or can order them the most expensive one it's over a hundred dollars and that is the right fender one
Wound have filled the holes in the mounts with polyurethane ,,,
that's sydney's car
all you sx4 owners mounts are very simular top right mount causes clunking on bumps not the strut good luck to all you sx4 owners its not a big deal to get these mounts changed
Most mechanics jack the engine from the oil pan tho wth