VIEWERS READ THIS: There is TWO vtc/vtec parts which have screens on them, and an additional screen that people most commonly disregard on the FRONT of the engine -On the back left / top of the engine theres the vtec solenoid assembly with the screen on there. when this clogs, youll shoot codes. 3x 10mm bolts. NO POWER TOOLS. THEYLL BREAK!!!!!!! -There is a vtc with a bunch of small screens (looks like a small COILPACK) on the left side of the head when looking at it from the front (requires jacking up left side of engine to remove) -there is an oil screen which commonly clogs and rips from pressure on the FRONT left of the engine under the head, (looks like a 1.5" square) directly behind your power steering pump in the front
Very similar to my EG civic type R swap... Vtec wouldn't always engage, took the vtec selonoid off cleaned the mesh with carburettor / intake cleaner spray... Fitted it back and had vtec for the next 2 years u till I sold the car. Presently I've just bought a 2003 crv Uk...(2024) I'm having slight hesitation on the gas, sometimes vtec will not engage... So littery tomorrow I'm going to unbolt the k20 vtec selonoid at the top back of the engine, I believe there is a electronic plug also needs un plugging, it's a few bolts and it wiggles out...ive already got a can of carburetor cleaner spray so that might fix it for me... Also I'm going to do a oil and oil filter change... Luckily my crv came with a lot of service history. Good luck all.
I have the SAME ISSUE - I took it to the HONDA dealer and from the Check Engine Code they knew exactly what was wrong they took the part off and took a picture of the engine opening where it attaches - from the picture they ADVISED me NOT TO FIX IT (?) - they said that the engine was full of SLUDGE from NOT CHANGING THE OIL enough ( I bought the car USED without a service record!) - there is a SCREEN that blocks OIL FLOW thru it that gets BLOCKED with Hardened Oil ( SLUDGE) ! Since the car was there I told them to do it anyway ($600 later) and it blocked up again about a week later ! I need to FLUSH the engine SLUDGE with a SOLVENT (diesal fuel, Seafoam, or ATF) Change out the crude then REPLACE the SCREEN piece which involves removing the V-tech solenoid after a new opl change !
I hear so many stories of aftermarket parts failing in a month or a year. I agree about the confidence. I don't want to replace the same part twice. Honda makes good parts and they are priced accordingly.
thanks, I just took my vehicle to the mechanic and he said 2 coils need replaced. I'm pretty sure he's not putting Honda parts in my 2003 crv, hopefully they'll last for awhile.
Good to hear. Remember that your local parts store will often use a code reader for free to help confirm what’s wrong before you go to a repair shop. That additional info can be helpful. 🙂
Suggestion: If possible, drive it to a close auto-parts store and ask them to check for “engine codes”. That may help give you direction on where to look first.
right on the money OEM parts only , ford transfer motor , crv fuel pump, crv injectors, crv vtec assembly case in point here after the aftermarket parts removed
ATTENTION URGENT: I have a 2001 Honda crv, it randomly turns off ( no power steering ) (AC LIGHTS, WIPERS, RADIO AND WINDOW STILL WORK AFTER DYING OUT) I changed the battery (didn’t help) I changed the alternator ( didn’t help ) I’m gonna try the distributor next, has anyone seen or had this problem with their own and if so what was the fix?????
ruclips.net/video/yn73Rnl0SxI/видео.htmlfeature=shared I was thinking loose wire/ electrical problem. You probably already looked up this video but just in case you havnt there's the link above. you may need a multimeter and trouble shoot. Maybe a fuse. Don't think it's an actual part that going bad more of wire, terminal/contacts (wire connections), fuse. Not professional advice what so ever. Just brain storming
ruclips.net/video/bp2E5KdIvGw/видео.htmlfeature=shared Use a multiple meter on everything (trouble shoot) everywhere on the car. There's sensors too you can use a multi meter on. You just have to learn how to use a multi meter doesn't take too much time. Just have to make sure it's set on the right unit of measure. You would be testing under DC (direct current) most of the time. just depends how much time you want to because it sounds like you have a unique problem, and it's going to be hard to locate the problem
Most importantly I want to thank you for the video that you made you help me out so much and finding out the situation on my 2005 Honda CRV it is making the exact same problem luckily the part was only 90 bucks not that expensive fix it on my own once again I appreciate the video it helped me out so much fighting this situation without having to take it to a mechanic
Glad it helped. I first put in an aftermarket part but it failed after exactly one year. Then I put in a genuine Honda part ( 3x the cost) but so far is working fine. Glad yours is working now !
It’s an old Yakina Tower Roof Rack set but with the OEM bases that are specific to that year CRV. I got them from EBay as I couldn’t find them anywhere else.
@@ynwfolks1811 Maybe go to your local parts store and ask them to connect a Code Reader to your car for free - and see if they show a code for what is wrong. That may be a good place to start.
Thanks for sharing this information. Just joined the CRV club and had an acceleration concern and I appreciated your story.
VIEWERS READ THIS:
There is TWO vtc/vtec parts which have screens on them, and an additional screen that people most commonly disregard on the FRONT of the engine
-On the back left / top of the engine theres the vtec solenoid assembly with the screen on there. when this clogs, youll shoot codes. 3x 10mm bolts. NO POWER TOOLS. THEYLL BREAK!!!!!!!
-There is a vtc with a bunch of small screens (looks like a small COILPACK) on the left side of the head when looking at it from the front (requires jacking up left side of engine to remove)
-there is an oil screen which commonly clogs and rips from pressure on the FRONT left of the engine under the head, (looks like a 1.5" square) directly behind your power steering pump in the front
Very similar to my EG civic type R swap... Vtec wouldn't always engage, took the vtec selonoid off cleaned the mesh with carburettor / intake cleaner spray... Fitted it back and had vtec for the next 2 years u till I sold the car. Presently I've just bought a 2003 crv Uk...(2024) I'm having slight hesitation on the gas, sometimes vtec will not engage... So littery tomorrow I'm going to unbolt the k20 vtec selonoid at the top back of the engine, I believe there is a electronic plug also needs un plugging, it's a few bolts and it wiggles out...ive already got a can of carburetor cleaner spray so that might fix it for me... Also I'm going to do a oil and oil filter change... Luckily my crv came with a lot of service history. Good luck all.
I have the SAME ISSUE - I took it to the HONDA dealer and from the Check Engine Code they knew exactly what was wrong they took the part off and took a picture of the engine opening where it attaches - from the picture they ADVISED me NOT TO FIX IT (?) - they said that the engine was full of SLUDGE from NOT CHANGING THE OIL enough ( I bought the car USED without a service record!) - there is a SCREEN that blocks OIL FLOW thru it that gets BLOCKED with Hardened Oil ( SLUDGE) ! Since the car was there I told them to do it anyway ($600 later) and it blocked up again about a week later ! I need to FLUSH the engine SLUDGE with a SOLVENT (diesal fuel, Seafoam, or ATF) Change out the crude then REPLACE the SCREEN piece which involves removing the V-tech solenoid after a new opl change !
After all that did it ever recover back to normal?
Same issue took it to honda but they could not figure it out
I hear so many stories of aftermarket parts failing in a month or a year. I agree about the confidence. I don't want to replace the same part twice. Honda makes good parts and they are priced accordingly.
Thanks. This was a great video. I just experienced this this afternoon and I’m going to use dealer parts.
Thanks for the video I just bought a used Honda and was hesitant while accelerating. 👍🏼
thanks, I just took my vehicle to the mechanic and he said 2 coils need replaced. I'm pretty sure he's not putting Honda parts in my 2003 crv, hopefully they'll last for awhile.
Good to hear.
Remember that your local parts store will often use a code reader for free to help confirm what’s wrong before you go to a repair shop. That additional info can be helpful.
🙂
Thanks for sharing I’m driving to work in my 01 Honda crv and it is hesitation and jerking while accelerating
Suggestion:
If possible, drive it to a close auto-parts store and ask them to check for “engine codes”. That may help give you direction on where to look first.
What was the actual code numbers?
I’m sorry. I don’t recall. But I did find it on the Internet and my local repair shop confirmed it with their code reader.
P1259 was the code I got for the same problem
Thanks bro i notice the with my honda
right on the money
OEM parts only , ford transfer motor , crv fuel pump, crv injectors, crv vtec assembly case in point here after the
aftermarket parts removed
ATTENTION URGENT: I have a 2001 Honda crv, it randomly turns off ( no power steering ) (AC LIGHTS, WIPERS, RADIO AND WINDOW STILL WORK AFTER DYING OUT) I changed the battery (didn’t help) I changed the alternator ( didn’t help ) I’m gonna try the distributor next, has anyone seen or had this problem with their own and if so what was the fix?????
I haven't but can you get a scan tool or have you tried that first
@@EndTheIMF after this I swapped the distributor and main relay, I’m almost certain it was the distributor
ruclips.net/video/yn73Rnl0SxI/видео.htmlfeature=shared
I was thinking loose wire/ electrical problem. You probably already looked up this video but just in case you havnt there's the link above. you may need a multimeter and trouble shoot. Maybe a fuse. Don't think it's an actual part that going bad more of wire, terminal/contacts (wire connections), fuse. Not professional advice what so ever. Just brain storming
ruclips.net/video/bp2E5KdIvGw/видео.htmlfeature=shared
Use a multiple meter on everything (trouble shoot) everywhere on the car. There's sensors too you can use a multi meter on. You just have to learn how to use a multi meter doesn't take too much time. Just have to make sure it's set on the right unit of measure. You would be testing under DC (direct current) most of the time. just depends how much time you want to because it sounds like you have a unique problem, and it's going to be hard to locate the problem
Most importantly I want to thank you for the video that you made you help me out so much and finding out the situation on my 2005 Honda CRV it is making the exact same problem luckily the part was only 90 bucks not that expensive fix it on my own once again I appreciate the video it helped me out so much fighting this situation without having to take it to a mechanic
Glad it helped.
I first put in an aftermarket part but it failed after exactly one year. Then I put in a genuine Honda part ( 3x the cost) but so far is working fine. Glad yours is working now !
What roof rack is that.?
It’s an old Yakina Tower Roof Rack set but with the OEM bases that are specific to that year CRV.
I got them from EBay as I couldn’t find them anywhere else.
Thanks for info
What is the name of the part
In this case it was a VVT Solenoid
(Variable Valve Timing Solenoid).
The code reader did show that code when it went bad.
Honda call it "VTEC Solenoid Spool Valve "
People dont change oil reg. Lazy. No good.
@@cogiccowboy3168mind drive then all of sudden it just drive slow
@@ynwfolks1811
Maybe go to your local parts store and ask them to connect a Code Reader to your car for free - and see if they show a code for what is wrong. That may be a good place to start.
Whats the code
Issue with timing chain that why acceleration is an issue
My issue was NOT s timing chain issue. My issue was resolved by replacing the VTEC solenoid.