10-13-23 Just bought a new KS7. and took out the screws to put on the pic rail. The two allen screws are 2.5mm, loctited in and tight as the proverbial well-digger's you know what. DO NOT try to use any ordinary allen wrench, and ONLY use a 2.5 mm wrench. Use something else and I guarantee you will strip the heads. Get an Allen driver with a handle that you can put a wrench on, an ordinary allen wrench will not give you sufficient leverage. Get a soldering iron, clean the tip, and hold it against the screw head for 5-10 minutes. Watch out that the iron does not contact the plastic handle. After 10 minutes try to break the screw loose WITHOUT a wrench on the handle of the allen driver. No luck? Put the wrench on the driver and twist with increasing force until the screw breaks loose. Then turn the screw in and out a little at a time until it turns out freely. I got both screws out intact using that method. Heat breaks down the loctite, but you have to be patient because the whole shotgun is a heat sink so you have to hold that iron against the screw head for a while. The right size high quality allen driver with a wrench on the handle with a judicious application of heat is the ticket. Good luck.
@@sunny71169 so which kind of wrench are you suggesting? Ratchet? Would I be able to reach the one through the handle with a ratchet? I appreciate your wisdom and help regarding this! Thanks!
@@m.m4982 A good quality hardened driver style with a handle or an L style NOT from Harbor Freight or Grizzly. A T handle wrench is fine if it is a quality hardened wrench. Stay away form the wrench set that folds into the handle like a pocket knife. Those tend to be cheap and fit poorly. 2.5mm is very small so the fit has to be perfect in order to avoid the wrench slipping and damaging the screw head. If that happens you are sunk. You have to be able to put a medium size crescent wrench on the driver to add the amount of torque needed to break the loctite loose AFTER you have heated the screw as suggested. Good luck, take your time, and apply the the torque slowly. Stop 1/2 turn before the wrench snaps and reheat if necessary.
@@GreenEyeDemon Mostly. I had to drill the hole out just a bit bigger. A leupold carry handle mount works nicely. It holding zero is another story. We'll see. @Keltec can we get an aluminum carry handle that accept AR15 carry handle mounts please?
@@CaptDestro putting an ar15 carry handle on a shotgun is retarded. There is no reason to do that. Putting a carry handle and then a mount on top of that carry handle for a ridiculous height over bore is the most pleb thing I can think of
Has anyone encountered a loose barrel nut? When I went to tighten down the muzzle brake the top of the carry handle was slanted to one side. I don't expect an answer other than call the company, but im not sure the barrel nut that connects to the rear handle mount should be loose enough to turn and now my carry handle is slanted in the rear. Im affraid to even attemt to remove the handle to try an correct/tighten the rear barrel nut.
Just attempted to take the carry handle off. That screw is ridiculously tight and is stripped, not allowing me to remove it to install my newly purchased Keltec rail assembly. I’ve tried every remedy short of chopping the carry handle or dremeking the screw for a slot to remove. I spent years as a 91F small arms repairman in 1st Special Forces Group and have proper tools and knowledge, but this is unacceptable. I see multiple other comments stating the same issue. What can you do to remedy this issue? It’s quality material issue…same as Magpul with their shitty screws they send out for the trigger guards…no hate on the company side but I’d like to send it in and have you guys install it do to a quality issue.
I think it has less to do with the quality of the screw, and more to do with the amount of thread locker they used. Like the holes were gunked up man. I hit it with a hair dryer first and they loosened up without issues. So heres the plan for you honestly: -Heat up the gun or atleast stick an allen wrench in the screw and heat the allen wrench with a bic lighter (Don't use a heat gun and risk melting polymer) -Use the proper sized wrench for the first screw. -For the stripped out screw you can tap a torx bit into it until it gets stuck. It works better if it is just slightly bigger than the allen screw. Should just come right out. The reinstall: I wanna say 17-20 in lbs with blue loctite
@@CaptDestro Yeah I’ve already tried heat too. Rear screw came out but the front near muzzle is done for. I could slot it and get it out myself but I’m going to send it in. I can’t believe I have to send it in all just for one screw.
@sadisticsynthpai1115 I'm in the same exact situation where my rear screw came out easily but the front one wouldn't budge and just stripped...I'm going to see if I can find a replacement for the screw and just hit it with a dremel cutoff wheel to make a notch and take it out with a flathead
@@believethehype8936 yeah i had the same problem...i had taken heat gun, lubricated, everything i could think of...ended up taking a dremel and cutting a slot in it to remove it with a flathead...its the only way unless you want to ship it in which is ridiculous. @KelTec are you not reading these comments? This is not a quality control issue, its a design flaw. You need to address it.
I've personally experimented with both , the rail will not work on the bulltac . The allen head spacing on the bulltac is more narrow , so the holes won't line up . Also, surprisingly, the KS7 uses smaller diameter screws than the bulltac . The rail could possibly work but would have to be modified . Not worth the headache in my opinion
you're not going to have a customer until you let palmetto sell the od green model for what they're selling the black model for. 200 bucks extra for the color is ridiculous.
10-13-23 Just bought a new KS7. and took out the screws to put on the pic rail. The two allen screws are 2.5mm, loctited in and tight as the proverbial well-digger's you know what. DO NOT try to use any ordinary allen wrench, and ONLY use a 2.5 mm wrench. Use something else and I guarantee you will strip the heads. Get an Allen driver with a handle that you can put a wrench on, an ordinary allen wrench will not give you sufficient leverage. Get a soldering iron, clean the tip, and hold it against the screw head for 5-10 minutes. Watch out that the iron does not contact the plastic handle. After 10 minutes try to break the screw loose WITHOUT a wrench on the handle of the allen driver. No luck? Put the wrench on the driver and twist with increasing force until the screw breaks loose. Then turn the screw in and out a little at a time until it turns out freely. I got both screws out intact using that method. Heat breaks down the loctite, but you have to be patient because the whole shotgun is a heat sink so you have to hold that iron against the screw head for a while. The right size high quality allen driver with a wrench on the handle with a judicious application of heat is the ticket. Good luck.
You think a t- handle Allen wrench would be enough?
@@m.m4982 no, but you can try it. I would definitely heat the screw first to break down the loctite before applying serious torque to the screw
@@sunny71169 so which kind of wrench are you suggesting? Ratchet? Would I be able to reach the one through the handle with a ratchet? I appreciate your wisdom and help regarding this! Thanks!
@@m.m4982 A good quality hardened driver style with a handle or an L style NOT from Harbor Freight or Grizzly. A T handle wrench is fine if it is a quality hardened wrench. Stay away form the wrench set that folds into the handle like a pocket knife. Those tend to be cheap and fit poorly. 2.5mm is very small so the fit has to be perfect in order to avoid the wrench slipping and damaging the screw head. If that happens you are sunk. You have to be able to put a medium size crescent wrench on the driver to add the amount of torque needed to break the loctite loose AFTER you have heated the screw as suggested. Good luck, take your time, and apply the the torque slowly. Stop 1/2 turn before the wrench snaps and reheat if necessary.
If there was a version of the carry handle that had a picatinny rail on it that would be the way to go
@@GreenEyeDemon Mostly. I had to drill the hole out just a bit bigger. A leupold carry handle mount works nicely. It holding zero is another story. We'll see. @Keltec can we get an aluminum carry handle that accept AR15 carry handle mounts please?
@@CaptDestro putting an ar15 carry handle on a shotgun is retarded. There is no reason to do that. Putting a carry handle and then a mount on top of that carry handle for a ridiculous height over bore is the most pleb thing I can think of
Hellllllz yeah
Someone made that I saw it recently
I will not be purchasing a rail or trying to change the stock carry handle because of all the comments talking about the front screws tripping
Has anyone encountered a loose barrel nut? When I went to tighten down the muzzle brake the top of the carry handle was slanted to one side. I don't expect an answer other than call the company, but im not sure the barrel nut that connects to the rear handle mount should be loose enough to turn and now my carry handle is slanted in the rear. Im affraid to even attemt to remove the handle to try an correct/tighten the rear barrel nut.
I think I will just leave mine as stock.
My front screw stripped
Just attempted to take the carry handle off. That screw is ridiculously tight and is stripped, not allowing me to remove it to install my newly purchased Keltec rail assembly. I’ve tried every remedy short of chopping the carry handle or dremeking the screw for a slot to remove. I spent years as a 91F small arms repairman in 1st Special Forces Group and have proper tools and knowledge, but this is unacceptable. I see multiple other comments stating the same issue. What can you do to remedy this issue?
It’s quality material issue…same as Magpul with their shitty screws they send out for the trigger guards…no hate on the company side but I’d like to send it in and have you guys install it do to a quality issue.
I think it has less to do with the quality of the screw, and more to do with the amount of thread locker they used. Like the holes were gunked up man. I hit it with a hair dryer first and they loosened up without issues.
So heres the plan for you honestly:
-Heat up the gun or atleast stick an allen wrench in the screw and heat the allen wrench with a bic lighter (Don't use a heat gun and risk melting polymer)
-Use the proper sized wrench for the first screw.
-For the stripped out screw you can tap a torx bit into it until it gets stuck. It works better if it is just slightly bigger than the allen screw.
Should just come right out.
The reinstall:
I wanna say 17-20 in lbs with blue loctite
@@CaptDestro Yeah I’ve already tried heat too. Rear screw came out but the front near muzzle is done for. I could slot it and get it out myself but I’m going to send it in. I can’t believe I have to send it in all just for one screw.
@sadisticsynthpai1115 I'm in the same exact situation where my rear screw came out easily but the front one wouldn't budge and just stripped...I'm going to see if I can find a replacement for the screw and just hit it with a dremel cutoff wheel to make a notch and take it out with a flathead
These posts are really freaking me out! Is it really that difficult to remove the front screw?
@@believethehype8936 yeah i had the same problem...i had taken heat gun, lubricated, everything i could think of...ended up taking a dremel and cutting a slot in it to remove it with a flathead...its the only way unless you want to ship it in which is ridiculous. @KelTec are you not reading these comments? This is not a quality control issue, its a design flaw. You need to address it.
Can you add a side saddle to the KS7?
Yes...either do velcro to the buttstock or add a pic rail -to- mlok towards the front.
My screws were so freaking tight, I couldn't get them off without stripping them.
Same. Did you get them out?
@@philipdennis5020 nope
Same
@@GreenEyeDemon I did
Same effing problem here, using the provided Allen key from kel tec. Screws are stripped and I’m pissed.
3:22 LMAO good luck
Is it true that the front screw straps when attempting to remove?
If you strip it than yes
@@drp9001 actually was able to remove with no proble.. it was definitely secured in there but was removable nonetheless.
Will this fit on the bulltac?
I've personally experimented with both , the rail will not work on the bulltac . The allen head spacing on the bulltac is more narrow , so the holes won't line up . Also, surprisingly, the KS7 uses smaller diameter screws than the bulltac . The rail could possibly work but would have to be modified . Not worth the headache in my opinion
Breh. Who wants to remove that sexy carry handle though? I bought one for my ksg12
the fact that it looks like a pulse rifle is really the only reason I would even buy one and people are changing the looks lol smh
Sights are too low for me. I have to dig my face into the stock. Thinking of putting a 1x prism optic on mines like the one primary arms sells.
you're not going to have a customer until you let palmetto sell the od green model for what they're selling the black model for. 200 bucks extra for the color is ridiculous.