This guy makes great how to videos. I've watched a couple of others he's done and I love the way he illustrates the project. He also has good video quality (better than a lot of flashier vloggers) partly because he's shaded from direct sunlight.
When you press the bearing into knuckle assembly make sure the magnet side of bearing goes first into the knuckle first for the ABS to work. The seal is brown in colour that is the magnetic side. Check with a paper clip to make sure it is magnetic. If you put bearing in backwards you will have to buy another bearing or live with ABS light on all the time.
The particular bearing I put on doesn’t matter which way you put it in, there’s no magnetic end. AND a lot of times, the reluctor is actually on the axel unless it’s a bearing+huh assembly then the reluctor might be inside those. Hope that clears it up and thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
TIP: Harbor Freight ICON brand Internal Straight Snap Ring Pliers (P/N: PSSRI12) work PERFECT for the snap ring. I tried like 5 different tools to squeeze the snap ring for install and the HF pliers worked perfect, first time.
They pretty much separate the brakes from the rotors when the brake pedal isn’t being pressed this helps prevent brake noise/grinding and overall prevents excessive brake wear, you can definitely install brakes without them and they’ll function properly but it’s likely you’ll experience brake wear faster from the brakes gliding on the rotors, and many cars don’t even have them😂 so it could be Bs from Honda
Roy, when I put the castle nut to the lower ball joint, I can't get it to align with the 2 bolts for the strut. I checked the CV joint and it was fine. I even pulled it out, and reinstalled it. It seems like axle is sticking out too much. What can I do?....Great video btw;)
@@eddiefavreau6732 Yeah. I watched another video with some guy doing the same thing but with an Acura (same thing right). And he was saying you have to rotate the brake rotor with your hands while putting pressure on the CV joint into the transmission gently, until you hear a "click" and it will settle back in. It did. Surprisingly it wasn't hard or much effort, just a little trick you have to know when doing this job.
After separating the outer axle shaft, it's a good idea to check and make sure the new hub's splines match before pressing them in. I tried ordering a Duralast complete hub and bearing set online for my GE8 Fit; the bearings matched but the hubs were another story. I didn't realize until after pressing one side on that the hub's inner diameter was bigger and had to press it out and order another pair of hubs to complete the job.
Duralast sucks I had everything done right and it still made noise and had some kinda slack to the wheel assembly. Stick to OEM parts especially if YOU are fixin da shits
Amazing tutorial man, really helpful!!! I'd be nice tho if when you took off each part you'd say, and this is a 17mm. And this is a 14, etc. But freakin amazing, thank you!!!!
NOT RECOMMENDED, but I've done it. You can heat the knuckle in the oven and freeze the bearing, and carefully hammer it in. If it works, you're golden. Be sure to hammer on a hardened steel socket that matches the diameter of the outer race. Then when the bearing is heated up to match the knuckle, you can take your frozen hub and repeat the process. This time, you want to support the interior bearing race while you hammer in the hub. Protect the studs and hub face. But this is a bad idea - it's hard on the bearing grease and seals and if it gets stuck halfway in, you're going to a local garage to get it fixed. Pay them the $40 or whatever to do the pressing for you.
how about a 2016 fit? any tips or do you have a video on that year? I think they are easier. I want to replace the wheel bearing assembly as a unit. nicely done tutorial and thank you!
Dear Roy, at 9:36, what kind and size pin are you using in order to get the bearing moving initially...when you use the sledge hammer. also, a 16 pound sledge hammer? and finally, the adapter you use to place the knuckle on when you're using the sledge hammer...is that a cross section of steel pipe? I tried my bearing removal tool and the bearing would not budge! Thank you!
Idk if I missed it but I didn’t see where you mentioned which direction the new bearing goes in. I installed my bearing only to find my ABS light was on because the bearing is backwards. One side is magnetized 🤦🏻♂️
At 15:14 your two bolts fell into place. I can’t seem to get my top bolt to line up. Tried raising the other side of the car thinking maybe something is cockeyed and even tried a C-clamp and still no luck. Any tips 🤔
Great question. Yes, you definitely can do that (not much people have 20,000 ton presses laying around their home, haha) but either way, make sure you get an alignment afterwards.
Hello, great video, at 11:49 the old bearing when into the housing. Was it stuck or can you remove it by hand. Im going to attempt this repair on my car. Great content and great explanations. Cheers
No, the old bear is NOT stuck and is removable by hand. The old bearing only very slightly (like a hairline) went in to perfectly push in the new one without damaging it. Hope that answers your questions and thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
To just replace the stud, after removing brake caliper, can you just press out the old stud and replace with another one? Since I don't have a hydraulic press.
Some times you can do it that way, as long as there space to do so for your car. Draw the stud in by putting in a wheel nut to pull the stud into the hub. Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
@@viperomen914 I was able to get the old stud out and the new one in at just the right angle, it was challenging but I didn't have to take the bearing off to do this.
Is there any way to just replace the lug nut stud? With out having to replace the whole bearing and hub? Why Honda make it so hard on the fit? Other cars you just hammer the broken stuff off and bolt a new one on
Sorry but I’m not quite sure what you’re asking but there is no front or back on the bearing, but you can only press the bearing into the spindle one way.
@@llgg4254 this particular wheel bearing is a press in bearing and the bearing itself does not have a front or back, you can flip it either way and press it into the spindle BUT it can only go into the spindle one way.
The particular bearing I put on doesn’t matter which way you put it in, there’s no magnetic end. AND a lot of times, the reluctor is actually on the axel unless it’s a bearing+huh assembly then the reluctor might be inside those. Hope that clears it up and thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
What a legend, saving all the fit drivers mechanic money!
Every mechanic video needs to start like this with a list of everything
Place your replacement bearing in the freezer a day before the job, it makes a difference.
Great video! I’m always happy to see a list of tools needed, makes my job a lot easier!
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
This guy makes great how to videos. I've watched a couple of others he's done and I love the way he illustrates the project. He also has good video quality (better than a lot of flashier vloggers) partly because he's shaded from direct sunlight.
Thank you and thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
you are expert. Showed many steps but no BS, jokes... Great workmanship
How straight forward and nice to work on a car that hasn't been corroded by rust! The bolts just come off!
When you press the bearing into knuckle assembly make sure the magnet side of bearing goes first into the knuckle first for the ABS to work. The seal is brown in colour that is the magnetic side. Check with a paper clip to make sure it is magnetic. If you put bearing in backwards you will have to buy another bearing or live with ABS light on all the time.
The particular bearing I put on doesn’t matter which way you put it in, there’s no magnetic end. AND a lot of times, the reluctor is actually on the axel unless it’s a bearing+huh assembly then the reluctor might be inside those. Hope that clears it up and thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
TIP: Harbor Freight ICON brand Internal Straight Snap Ring Pliers (P/N: PSSRI12) work PERFECT for the snap ring. I tried like 5 different tools to squeeze the snap ring for install and the HF pliers worked perfect, first time.
Simple and easy to follow instructions. You're the best carnalito!
I enjoyed your video . Can you tell me about those springs that you put back on the brakes?
They pretty much separate the brakes from the rotors when the brake pedal isn’t being pressed this helps prevent brake noise/grinding and overall prevents excessive brake wear, you can definitely install brakes without them and they’ll function properly but it’s likely you’ll experience brake wear faster from the brakes gliding on the rotors, and many cars don’t even have them😂 so it could be Bs from Honda
Roy, when I put the castle nut to the lower ball joint, I can't get it to align with the 2 bolts for the strut. I checked the CV joint and it was fine. I even pulled it out, and reinstalled it. It seems like axle is sticking out too much. What can I do?....Great video btw;)
Did you figure this out?
@@eddiefavreau6732 Yeah. I watched another video with some guy doing the same thing but with an Acura (same thing right). And he was saying you have to rotate the brake rotor with your hands while putting pressure on the CV joint into the transmission gently, until you hear a "click" and it will settle back in. It did. Surprisingly it wasn't hard or much effort, just a little trick you have to know when doing this job.
After separating the outer axle shaft, it's a good idea to check and make sure the new hub's splines match before pressing them in. I tried ordering a Duralast complete hub and bearing set online for my GE8 Fit; the bearings matched but the hubs were another story. I didn't realize until after pressing one side on that the hub's inner diameter was bigger and had to press it out and order another pair of hubs to complete the job.
Duralast sucks I had everything done right and it still made noise and had some kinda slack to the wheel assembly. Stick to OEM parts especially if YOU are fixin da shits
Amazing tutorial man, really helpful!!! I'd be nice tho if when you took off each part you'd say, and this is a 17mm. And this is a 14, etc. But freakin amazing, thank you!!!!
Ok so how do you do it without a separator and hydraulic press
Did you find a method? If not I guess I’ll have to call a local shop and see if they can press the old one out and new one in😭
NOT RECOMMENDED, but I've done it. You can heat the knuckle in the oven and freeze the bearing, and carefully hammer it in. If it works, you're golden. Be sure to hammer on a hardened steel socket that matches the diameter of the outer race. Then when the bearing is heated up to match the knuckle, you can take your frozen hub and repeat the process. This time, you want to support the interior bearing race while you hammer in the hub. Protect the studs and hub face.
But this is a bad idea - it's hard on the bearing grease and seals and if it gets stuck halfway in, you're going to a local garage to get it fixed. Pay them the $40 or whatever to do the pressing for you.
Brother, this helped me so much - thanks for the video and the attention to detail with clear explanation!
Thanks you and Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Thank you. This is very valuable information.
You are wonderful!
Appreciate the video, Roy.
God bless you man what a great well done job
Awesome in each step!
how about a 2016 fit? any tips or do you have a video on that year? I think they are easier. I want to replace the wheel bearing assembly as a unit. nicely done tutorial and thank you!
Dear Roy, at 9:36, what kind and size pin are you using in order to get the bearing moving initially...when you use the sledge hammer. also, a 16 pound sledge hammer? and finally, the adapter you use to place the knuckle on when you're using the sledge hammer...is that a cross section of steel pipe? I tried my bearing removal tool and the bearing would not budge! Thank you!
Idk if I missed it but I didn’t see where you mentioned which direction the new bearing goes in. I installed my bearing only to find my ABS light was on because the bearing is backwards. One side is magnetized 🤦🏻♂️
Great detailed video Bro. Tks
What do I do about my abs light being on now??
At 15:14 your two bolts fell into place. I can’t seem to get my top bolt to line up. Tried raising the other side of the car thinking maybe something is cockeyed and even tried a C-clamp and still no luck. Any tips 🤔
You're a good man Roy. Could I just pull the hub and spindle off and take it to a garage to get the bearing pressed out and the new one pressed in?
Great question. Yes, you definitely can do that (not much people have 20,000 ton presses laying around their home, haha) but either way, make sure you get an alignment afterwards.
this was great. Thanks for all the info.
I’m glad I could help, thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
7:46 hello, what is the size of that bearing separator and that big socket used for base support ? I appreciate thanks
Hello, great video, at 11:49 the old bearing when into the housing. Was it stuck or can you remove it by hand. Im going to attempt this repair on my car.
Great content and great explanations. Cheers
No, the old bear is NOT stuck and is removable by hand. The old bearing only very slightly (like a hairline) went in to perfectly push in the new one without damaging it. Hope that answers your questions and thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
To just replace the stud, after removing brake caliper, can you just press out the old stud and replace with another one? Since I don't have a hydraulic press.
Some times you can do it that way, as long as there space to do so for your car. Draw the stud in by putting in a wheel nut to pull the stud into the hub. Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Can you actually do that? My 09 fit doesn’t have enough space to put a new one in?
@@viperomen914 I was able to get the old stud out and the new one in at just the right angle, it was challenging but I didn't have to take the bearing off to do this.
Is there any way to just replace the lug nut stud? With out having to replace the whole bearing and hub? Why Honda make it so hard on the fit? Other cars you just hammer the broken stuff off and bolt a new one on
Did you put in that bearing backwards?
Sorry but I’m not quite sure what you’re asking but there is no front or back on the bearing, but you can only press the bearing into the spindle one way.
There is a front and back
@@llgg4254 this particular wheel bearing is a press in bearing and the bearing itself does not have a front or back, you can flip it either way and press it into the spindle BUT it can only go into the spindle one way.
Best video 👋👋🇺🇸🇺🇸
Uncle you stey Hawaii? Maui no ka oi but Kauai no ka best
Oahu grown! Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Is this in Hawai'i?
Yes, I’m in beautiful Hawai’i nei! Thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Every thing was great , but you did not mention what side of the bearing should go in first. Otherwise the ABS would not work.
The particular bearing I put on doesn’t matter which way you put it in, there’s no magnetic end. AND a lot of times, the reluctor is actually on the axel unless it’s a bearing+huh assembly then the reluctor might be inside those. Hope that clears it up and thanks for watching 🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
What size separator did you use?
I used otc #1123
why not freeze the bearing so it will drop in easier?
ive done everything but no matter what i do its not going over the ball joint
What’s not going over the ball joint?
You forgot to make sure the magnet side of the bearing go down first. Lol
no torque wrench, no specs, just brrt that thing right on