1978 Hawke - Formula Ford FF1600 - Technical Assessment
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- This is the first video in a series where we are going to rebuild a Formula Ford from 1978, a Hawke DL19. In this video we walk through the entire car , provide advice on what should be check before racing an old care car and a technical assessment on what is needed for the rebuild.
This is good starting point for a restoration. Note: the cutouts on the shift linkage were OEM from the factory, not unusual for the era. Also, shift linkage bar is always a little loose in these old Hewland boxes.😉
ALWAYS, I mean ALWAYS when you get a car like this(old) it should completely torn down to the last nut and bolt and bead blast the chasse to the bare metal. This racer was obviously maintained on a budget and who knows what surprises awaited. And just because you cant see corrosion, doesn't mean it isn't hiding under the epoxy paint. I noticed too many things too mention that were missed in the video that I'm sure Steve will correct when rebuilding. There was some info missing, like when was the car last raced, how long has it been sitting(rebuild master cylinders), last engine rebuild, trans referb. A few notes of my own:
- Radiators: Get them hot tanked and pressure tested, if still good, why change other than something more modern, maybe lighter. The current rads. if in good condition are more than enough cooling capacity. At minimum test car with current rads., You'll be spending money in a lot of other places you don't know now, radiators can wait if these are good.
-Engine: A serious racer would rebuild the engine. You don't want to go to all the effort of getting this car restored to race and have engine problems at testing/race weekend. Budget racer hopes for the best, but look at how well the rest of the car looks.🙃
-Trans: Ditto want I said about the engine...even more so. People tend to let trans work slide more than engine work.
-Battery: Get a modern, light dry cell racing battery and put it inside the cockpit, under the feet. I'd spend that money before unnecessary radiator money.
-Bodywork: Think ahead. Repair and refit the bodywork first so you'll know exactly where you need to weld on additional fasteners once the chassis is down to bare metal. This also applies to fasteners for the fixes you're planning for the cooling system. 😉
Rick
Hi Rick, indeed there are many other factors, some known , some not known... It can be very hard to find its history. In this case the previous owner had it for 10 years and did race with it . In the state it is until last year when he started to rebuild it... He claims the engine was rebuild , and I tend to believe so as i` have seen the bills. how good the rebuild was is another story....The man stopped racing as he 72. There are many things that will come up during the rebuild video's. And yes there are several points that i did not mention in the video ( would have been 2 hour video 😀). As for the chassis, I will blast this with garnet 360, and get new paint .... after blasting one can see indeed the reals state... This video was an overall assessment , details will follow.......But all very good points. Thanks for taking the time to write it....
Steve, It does make you wonder what the mind set of some people is when you see some of the shabby & dangerous ways they have tried to keep this race car on the track.
There safety seem to have been a low priority but saving some money was high this is counter intuative to most people. I am looking forward to seeing this car in top shape
and watching the rebuild over the winter, Thanks for taking us along with you on this journey. Cheers Dave.
Hi Dave, indeed that is something I see over and over again on almost all cars I have done. In fact it makes me even wonder that there are no more accidents.
It's great to see these neglected old race cars being fixed up by someone who knows how to do things PROPERLY
Thank you , I try...
Nice Job Steve. As my Father used to say “take your time and think and you can achieve anything”. I have made doors for cupboards and wardrobes in houses using the same technique. I have never purchased of the shelf wood filler, I have only ever mixed the sawdust and wood glue to match the timber being used. Glad I’m not the only one, I used to get a few odd looks from people watching me do it. Great video 👍
Thanks for the comments
Looking forward to the series! Thank you for taking the time to share...
Thanks for watching! more to come
Looking forward to this project! Always amazed at the variety and quantity of projects you have on the go. Such an interesting and satisfying life you have!
Thanks Brian, well live is what you make of it..
Really interesting video, thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Interesting video, brought back some memories for me as I raced a DL19 back in 1979.
Hi Steve, this's a Beautiful winter's project. I can't wait to see the works on this Formula Ford :)
You and me both!
Steve - Another great video and glad to see you taking the time to keep these old amateur class race cars going. One thing I was looking for was you to talk about not only replacing the tires, but also having the wheels sandblasted and checked for cracks as they are 45 years old.
Thanks for the comments, , indeed ...
The start of another awesome series, been really enjoying your journey with these cars Steve, this is going to be another mega rebuild, can't wait,
Thank you for the comments and I will try
Hi
I have a PRS FF1600 from the same era, so I'm looking forward to seeing this rebuild. I'm learning a lot from your channel!!
Gearbox looks like a Hewland Mk9. The fastener with glue round it holds a spring loaded plunger which pushes on the selector arm to stop you getting reverse when you want first gear. You have to push against the spring to get reverse.
Also, the spring pans will raise the car if you use them to take up the gap at the top of the spring which you may not want. You can get low rate flat helper springs which will take up the slack without raising the car. All will likely change if you fit new dampers, though.
The clutch master cylinder looks like ones on the PRS. I believe they were AP Lockheed parts - CP2145 - 4 master cylinders, but hard to find now.
Hope this helps!
Thank you for the comments, and the good info... indeed it seems to MK9... that explains why the reverse is very hard to get... Very good info
Spectaculair !!
Thanks for the comments,
Hi Steve - Another great video. I have only been watching for ~1.5 years. I have not heard you talk about your background. You seem to have a history in professional racing, perhaps? It would be fun to hear your backstory in a coming video. Thanks for the informative videos!
Great suggestion!, I will give some taught, although it might be boring....
That's a great idea
On the one hand I feel sorry for you that you'll have to do a lot of work on this car. On the other hand am I very much looking forward to your videos about the various repairs and improvements.
Thanks for the comments, I do like challenges , so I enjoy it
Love your work 👍
Thank you
Nice video Steve. Regarding the brakes they look like standard MK2 Ford Escort callipers and discs. They are normally that thin and small in diameter. Of course these are all still available new from specialists. I would keep the Lockheed callipers and after a rebuild and tidy up they will be probably better than new aftermarket versions. Hope this helps. Regards Duncan.
Thanks Duncan, that is good info. As for the callipers, those will stay indeed... Most aftermarket stuff is not all that good...
Hi Steve.i think the tank hose is not an overflow. But use to be a breather sistem. To prevent the tank going vacuum. Best thing is to put a longer tube on and curl it 6times. And feed it high up into the role cage. And put a lite vacuum valve on the end. I maybe stil have one,-00.2 bar. Like the vlogs. Gr Hub
Thanks Hub, good tip
Have a look on the self lovking Nuts from the Steering, the screws are too short, so the self locking nut is ineffective.
Thanks for the comments, indeed... many things are not right
Great car, I'd love to build one with an alfa twin cam
I’m always a little bit wary when I see chrome plated suspension and other high stress parts. High carbon/high strength steel can suffer from hydrogen embrittlement unless it is heat treated after plating.
Thank you for the comments
@@D3Sshooter thats why most are nickel plated and polished
The quality of your videos is excellent. Also the way you talk. Calm en very good to understand. Although i'm not so interested in racing cars, i always follow all your videos.
But i like to ask you, when are you continuing with old Rusty?
best regards
Job Laan
Thanks Job, Old Rusty is about to come back soon... lots of welding to be done on it... but on its way for another set of video's .. I expect this to be in a few weeks... Right now , I am working in the tower room
Seems like anyone who's willing to buy one of these old race cars has their work cut out for them.
I have to ask - why the second formula car? I think it is very cool that you got this one as well and I'm looking forward to all the upcoming videos, but what made you go for that?
Thanks for the comments, and why ? That is because the opportunity came by, and I do believe that we must preserve those old race cars...
@@D3Sshooter Right, I hear you. Looking forward to the series
You own four race cars at the moment? I like your very informative build videos but hope to see you actually racing one of the cars in the near future. Because that what's it really all about.
That is so true, I do and only 1 is 100% ready , the MGB GT is 50% ready and the other two are not ready at all. I buy them, when they are as good as written off. Once they are restored, they are raced in historical track races. They don't go back to competition racing, or at least not yet. The reason is that I am a one man team. I am the sponsor, the mechanic, the driver, the pit crew.... In competition as you know that is not possible, you need helpers...and that all costs . You will see the shakedown of the formula konig and some classic racing at Mettet very soon... We ( me and the car 😀) are registerd and signed -up for that classic race.
@@D3Sshooter Looking forward to see you driving the Formel König.
I would like to give you a hand but 1200 km are a bit far. No enthusiast around who is a little bit more local? Come on guys.
@19:29 The ears the bolt goes through are bent? Shouldn’t there be more spacers around the rod end , or is that by design?
Looks like you have some wotk to do but Im sure that will be fun and interesting. Will be fun to see how it turns out in the end.
Regarding the brakes they do seem a little small and simple. Youre not contemplating an upgrade to ventilated disk and beefier caliper?
Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the comments, those are standard brakes for a FF1600 , as the car is very light... 400Kg
I love that gasket on the gearbox....definitely not hewland
These disks look like they are the same as a DL11. If so, there are none available. I buy Nissan Micra rear disks, and machine them to fit. Takes about 30 minutes of machining. I have a drawing with the details if you wish.
That is very interesting, that drawing would be nice ... If you don't mind sending it steve@flashsplash.be ... Although it seems that the DL19 has Ford Escort 2 disks . I will need to check that out
Attention @14:59 Rear Spring and driveshaft have been eating each other!!!! 😱😱😱
Yes indeed, that is what I showed ... that is why I will move the chocks
Looking forward to the project.
I don't think a bike water bottle and holder could be considered as original equipment. 🤔😅
Indeed, that was so funny to see....
Hi Steve ,the proper name for the quick fit fasteners on the bodywork I believe they are called "zuz fasteners .
Thanks Pal, that is good to know
Yes, though spelled Dzus (the name of the inventor)
@@emmajacobs5575 Thank god there is is always some smart arse representing the utube spelling warrior brigade ready to educate us in these matters. Many thanks.
You also need to see at LEAST one thread sticking out of a self locking nylon nut. I noticed many of the bolts are too short on this car
Indeed, that is another problem that needs to be resolved
Old rusty pushed back again?
it will be worked on in between
In my opinion you have to take a look to the engine, because It doesn't run very well.
Thanks for the comments, I will for sure verify all that
What a mess. Typical used race car. Looks fair cosmetically, but mechanically some serious deficiencies. Like you said, previous owner(s) didn't really know what they were doing.