I two toned my garage, it only came off the wall about 11 inches, but I made it with a 4 ft Wayne's coating. And the center was a darker gray. I did it two years ago and still love it.
Your channel is an excellent source of information and I’ve seen many of your videos, because there is so much information regarding the different types of epoxy materials. Would you/ Could you make a video with a chart comparing the deferent types of materials there pros/cons, set/open working time and most of strength/life expectancy. This would help diy people such as myself choose which product to purchase from your company. For example I have a newly constructed home with a 750 sq work Wood” shop. What would be the best way to approach such this project. IE: do i still have to grind the floor no matter if the concrete is new. ???
Thanks, I would like to visit some customer jobsites in the future and shoot some videos. River city did purchase our equipment and they are doing a phenomenal job.
Do you have any classes where you teach all of this? I’ve been following and watching your videos but there’s nothing like hands ok experience and you definitely know what you’re talking about.
I do not have classes, but would be willing to travel and teach entire staff for a fee. Email me directly jason@concretefloorsolutions.com if you are interested.
From Delco Eh???? After this video let's go get some Nifty Fifties or go to Wawa everyone talks about. Hey, Go Eagles, let's through snowballs at Santa Clause. HAHA!!! I'm from there obviously!! Great Video Charles, Thanks so much man!! Go Birds!!!
Thanks for you instructional video I have a new concrete 1 car garage never sealed or driven on 3 days old how soon could I use your products and would I have to sand it first
Concrete needs to cure 30 days prior to installing any coatings. I would highly recommend diamond grinding the surface to create a scratch for the epoxy to bond to. I would also recommend upgrading the topcoat to the CFS-1C Polyaspartic. The polyaspartic is 100% UV stable and can be used in direct sunlight.
You cannot use epoxy topcoats exterior. You need to use polyaspartics: I dont know how many sq.ft. you have, but here is whats recommended exterior: concretefloorsolutions.com/store/epoxy-floor-kits/500-sq-ft-cfs-1c-polyaspartic-flake-floor-kit/
The crack filler sets in about three minutes, you can grind immediately after, and not have to wait for material to set. It also has much better penetration into the concrete, so it bonds much better
You can use an 18 inch wide floor scraper that you can get at any hardware store, the joints should be filled with a polyurea joint filler: concretefloorsolutions.com/store/repair-materials/cfs-fast-set-joint-filler-with-static-mixing-tip/
Great video. Just one question, when my basement floor was poured, plastic wasn't used under the concrete. I never see it wet or damp but is this a concern?
That should not be an issue at all. The primer we supply with our kits is good up to 5 pounds per thousand square feet of vapor transmission. If you don't see any signs of moisture, I am sure you don't have anything to worry about. If you are concerned about it, I would recommend doing a calcium chloride test.
Yes, As long as the vapor transmission is less than 5 pounds per thousand square feet. Epoxy is a solid surface and non-breathable. If you do have higher vapor transmission, you just need to apply a moisture vapor barrier first. concretefloorsolutions.com/store/epoxy/cfs-moisture-vapor-barrier/
CFS-FAST SET EPOXY CRACK FILLER- Does it have a strong odor? I used PC Crete 150 in my basement storage room and it about gassed us out of the house. Odor was even stronger after grinding smooth.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions That's a very vague reply and applies to all chemicals. I guess my question should have been more specific, when you used CFS-FAST SET EPOXY CRACK FILLER in this video in your basement, did it permeate throughout the entire house to the point you didn't want to be in the house because of the odor?
@@dscottgillett everybody has their own opinion on how bad the smell is. Yes, you can smell it, no, I didn't think it's bad enough to want to leave the house, but again it's all personal opinion. My recommendation if you were going to use it in the houses is to make sure you have good ventilation
When applying primer (at about 15mintues into video), are you applying an pressure onto the squeegee? It looks like you are largely just using the weight of the squeegee with minimal pressure applied downward to it. Is that correct? Thank you
Our primer is rated for 3lb/24hr/1000 square feet. I personally have only ever encountered one project in 28 years where I really needed the vapor barrier. Our solvent based penetrating primer, penetrates into the pores of the concrete, which virtually eliminates delamination issues. We do have a vapor barrier rated for 20lb/24hr/1000 square feet. concretefloorsolutions.com/store/epoxy/cfs-moisture-vapor-barrier/ If you have any concerns over vapor transmission, I would highly recommend a calcium chloride test. That being said, if you are that concerned over moisture issues, I would just put the moisture vapor barrier down and be done with it.
I apologize, it is nothing more than taking a 12"-20" inch metal floor scraper and walking back-and-forth scraping off the loose flake in multiple directions
Normally, we will have the trim pulled off. Sometimes we need to work with it in place. It is much easier if there's no trim. We typically use 6 inch rollers, 1 inch in diameter from big box stores. 1/4 or 3/8 nap.
What do you do if you get that primer coat down, but then you find some holes that need to be filled? Can you fill them and let them level so you don't have to grind them a second time?
I noticed you mixed the extra perimeter batch in the same bucket as the original batch. We always use clean buckets for every mix. I’d love to stop using so many buckets! No concerns of mixing in a bucket that’s already been mixed in for 45 min?
Hey guys - I love your content and would totally hire you if you were nearer me (I'm in the UK). Question at someone looking to DIY, how would you deal with a tamped-finish concreate floor? A traditional grinder I think would take far too long to smooth it, is there another tool you'd use or would you lay some sort of self leveller before laying a flake system?
Apply a self leveler or epoxy mortar. You can get a self leveler at any big box store. Just make sure that you read the manufacturers TDS sheet to see what materials can be applied on top, and if there needs to be any prep work done before applying an epoxy on top. Mostly you don't need to prep. However I would just double check to be safe.
I would say, absolutely, I would recommend it before you put the carpet down so you can go 6 inches wide with the edge and then overlap the carpet over the epoxy. That would be the easy way to do it.
It provides much better camouflage if you do damage the floor. This is a basement and not what I would consider a Showroom / living area. Metallic flooring would provide the same waterproofing aspect as the flake though.
@Concrete Floor Solutions Inc. Do metallic floors show wear easily? Hold up to UV from doors and windows? I'm looking to finish my basement floors but am not wild for vinyl chip downstairs. Is there a specific finish you would recommend for basements besides vinyl chip?
@@ryanklosterman3749 metallic floors are very smooth self leveling in nature. If you do damage your floor, it will be very easy to see. I wouldn't say they necessarily scratch easier, but if they do scratch, it will be much easier to see the scratch than on a flake floor. Metallic pigments are mixed with epoxy. Epoxy is not 100% UV stable so can discolor overtime. You can slow it down by applying a urethane topcoat on top of the Mettalics.
@Concrete Floor Solutions Inc. Thanks for the info! What type of floor would you recommend in a basement with a sliding door. I could put a blind over the door to protect from UV. Only a few small windows up high besides the slider. Not sure I want a chip floor in my basement but want something durable and also decorative. Thanks
@@ryanklosterman3749 either floor is going to be extremely durable. It all comes down to your personal preference and opinion. The metallic floor will definitely look higher end.
I always use a flat squeegee, but I have to admit I have become one with the squeegee over the years. I would recommend a notched squeegee for first timers, it helps regulate the thickness of the material to get a good consistent coating. if using notched, this is what I recommend: concretefloorsolutions.com/store/accessories/speedsqueegees/
It is 100% waterproof if it gets wet, NOT to be confused with a waterproofing coating to stop water from penetrating through a floor. I do believe I explain that it is NOT designed to stop water pushing up through a floor. Thank you for bringing that up.
I primarily need a waterproofing solution. need help! Have a moldy church basement looking for a method to waterproof the slab (put in 1970) planning on digging up the exterior walls to waterproof but water bubbles up the slab joints when it rains
Excellent video ! Thorough and informative
"Jared thought I cut this out" lol that's great
I two toned my garage, it only came off the wall about 11 inches, but I made it with a 4 ft Wayne's coating. And the center was a darker gray. I did it two years ago and still love it.
That is awesome, I love that look
I like the two tone look, pain to do but it does look nice, thanks for sharing. Charles
Your channel is an excellent source of information and I’ve seen many of your videos, because there is so much information regarding the different types of epoxy materials. Would you/ Could you make a video with a chart comparing the deferent types of materials there pros/cons, set/open working time and most of strength/life expectancy. This would help diy people such as myself choose which product to purchase from your company. For example I have a newly constructed home with a 750 sq work Wood” shop. What would be the best way to approach such this project.
IE: do i still have to grind the floor no matter if the concrete is new. ???
I’m really surprised your joint between the different colors came out so nice without taping back.
Great open time on that cold PA slab…45 minutes!
I watched the whole video 👍✌
Thanks for watching,
I try to include every detail
I miss your videos.
I saw you sold all equipment to Royer.
Hope he will continue to do good work and make videos as you were.
Good luck,👍
Thanks, I would like to visit some customer jobsites in the future and shoot some videos.
River city did purchase our equipment and they are doing a phenomenal job.
Thanks for the video 👍
Great video!
Do you have any classes where you teach all of this? I’ve been following and watching your videos but there’s nothing like hands ok experience and you definitely know what you’re talking about.
I do not have classes, but would be willing to travel and teach entire staff for a fee.
Email me directly jason@concretefloorsolutions.com if you are interested.
I watched the entire video.
Thank you
From Delco Eh???? After this video let's go get some Nifty Fifties or go to Wawa everyone talks about. Hey, Go Eagles, let's through snowballs at Santa Clause. HAHA!!! I'm from there obviously!! Great Video Charles, Thanks so much man!! Go Birds!!!
What was the name of that wheeled set up you guys were laying on while grinding? That needs a joystick and a motor!
Good idea.
concretefloorsolutions.com/store/accessories/racatac-with-chest-support-01rac3cs/
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions
I think the floor looks fantastic, if it were me, I would have grinded and painted the metal support poles first.
I agree, i had some time constraints I had to work with and now i have to deal with the columns and I don't want to get my floor dirty doing it.
Can I use your products and approach to make a shower floor instead of using shower pan?
You are an artice !
Thanks for you instructional video I have a new concrete 1 car garage never sealed or driven on 3 days old how soon could I use your products and would I have to sand it first
Concrete needs to cure 30 days prior to installing any coatings.
I would highly recommend diamond grinding the surface to create a scratch for the epoxy to bond to.
I would also recommend upgrading the topcoat to the CFS-1C Polyaspartic. The polyaspartic is 100% UV stable and can be used in direct sunlight.
Very informative video, just a question ,can i use it on concrete outside of the house (around the house)??
You cannot use epoxy topcoats exterior. You need to use polyaspartics:
I dont know how many sq.ft. you have, but here is whats recommended exterior:
concretefloorsolutions.com/store/epoxy-floor-kits/500-sq-ft-cfs-1c-polyaspartic-flake-floor-kit/
Nice look - 2 tone
What's the advantage to using the crack filler over a standard epoxy mortar/coving mix to fill in the nail holes?
The crack filler sets in about three minutes, you can grind immediately after, and not have to wait for material to set.
It also has much better penetration into the concrete, so it bonds much better
I miss you
Hello, do you know if these Basement Epoxy Kits can/will cover/eliminate Earthy Concrete Odor?
That surely is not what they were designed for, but it is a impermeable surface, so I can't see how it wouldn't help.
Thanks for the video. What did you use to scrape the floor? Also my basement has joints should those be filled with self leveler?
You can use an 18 inch wide floor scraper that you can get at any hardware store, the joints should be filled with a polyurea joint filler:
concretefloorsolutions.com/store/repair-materials/cfs-fast-set-joint-filler-with-static-mixing-tip/
Thank you sir
Great video. Just one question, when my basement floor was poured, plastic wasn't used under the concrete. I never see it wet or damp but is this a concern?
That should not be an issue at all. The primer we supply with our kits is good up to 5 pounds per thousand square feet of vapor transmission.
If you don't see any signs of moisture, I am sure you don't have anything to worry about. If you are concerned about it, I would recommend doing a calcium chloride test.
Silly question .. Does this help prevent rising damp .
Yes, As long as the vapor transmission is less than 5 pounds per thousand square feet. Epoxy is a solid surface and non-breathable. If you do have higher vapor transmission, you just need to apply a moisture vapor barrier first. concretefloorsolutions.com/store/epoxy/cfs-moisture-vapor-barrier/
CFS-FAST SET EPOXY CRACK FILLER- Does it have a strong odor? I used PC Crete 150 in my basement storage room and it about gassed us out of the house. Odor was even stronger after grinding smooth.
It does have an odor and you should use it in a ventilated area. I have no idea what that other material is or how to compare it to it.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions That's a very vague reply and applies to all chemicals. I guess my question should have been more specific, when you used CFS-FAST SET EPOXY CRACK FILLER in this video in your basement, did it permeate throughout the entire house to the point you didn't want to be in the house because of the odor?
@@dscottgillett everybody has their own opinion on how bad the smell is. Yes, you can smell it, no, I didn't think it's bad enough to want to leave the house, but again it's all personal opinion.
My recommendation if you were going to use it in the houses is to make sure you have good ventilation
When applying primer (at about 15mintues into video), are you applying an pressure onto the squeegee? It looks like you are largely just using the weight of the squeegee with minimal pressure applied downward to it. Is that correct? Thank you
For that particular material, yes. Very little down pressure with that squeegee.
With the primer, do you ever use a moisture vapor barrier instead of the primer to ensure no moisture problems in the future?
Our primer is rated for 3lb/24hr/1000 square feet. I personally have only ever encountered one project in 28 years where I really needed the vapor barrier. Our solvent based penetrating primer, penetrates into the pores of the concrete, which virtually eliminates delamination issues. We do have a vapor barrier rated for 20lb/24hr/1000 square feet. concretefloorsolutions.com/store/epoxy/cfs-moisture-vapor-barrier/
If you have any concerns over vapor transmission, I would highly recommend a calcium chloride test.
That being said, if you are that concerned over moisture issues, I would just put the moisture vapor barrier down and be done with it.
I wish you would have shown the scraping and cleaning between step 2 and 3.
I apologize, it is nothing more than taking a 12"-20" inch metal floor scraper and walking back-and-forth scraping off the loose flake in multiple directions
What kind of 6" rollers are you using? Do you usually pull off the trim before most jobs?
Normally, we will have the trim pulled off. Sometimes we need to work with it in place.
It is much easier if there's no trim.
We typically use 6 inch rollers, 1 inch in diameter from big box stores. 1/4 or 3/8 nap.
What do you do if you get that primer coat down, but then you find some holes that need to be filled? Can you fill them and let them level so you don't have to grind them a second time?
You can puddle some of the CFS-Intermediate coat (100% solids) before you apply the flake and you will never see it.
Where do you get bags for the hilti vac? Thanks. Enjoying your videos
I never used bags in the vacuum. You can, however, order bags directly from Hilti
Thank you
Do you use dust filter bag in Hilti VCD vacuum cleaner and do you recommend these dust bags?
I never did, they seemed to be more of a pain than anything.
I noticed you mixed the extra perimeter batch in the same bucket as the original batch. We always use clean buckets for every mix. I’d love to stop using so many buckets! No concerns of mixing in a bucket that’s already been mixed in for 45 min?
No issue at all as long as the material was not setting up in the bucket.
Hey guys - I love your content and would totally hire you if you were nearer me (I'm in the UK). Question at someone looking to DIY, how would you deal with a tamped-finish concreate floor? A traditional grinder I think would take far too long to smooth it, is there another tool you'd use or would you lay some sort of self leveller before laying a flake system?
Apply a self leveler or epoxy mortar. You can get a self leveler at any big box store. Just make sure that you read the manufacturers TDS sheet to see what materials can be applied on top, and if there needs to be any prep work done before applying an epoxy on top. Mostly you don't need to prep. However I would just double check to be safe.
How well does that hilti vac work? I have a pulse bac but they are expensive
The Hilti works great. Nothing good is cheap, thats for sure.
Do you have shiping option for Bosnia and Herzegovina, I am interested in EPDM blade squeegee you used, shorter type, without telescopic handle.
I'm sorry, we do not. We ship anywhere within the United States at no charge.
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions Ok, thank you for quick answer.
I want to edge my carpeted room with epoxy with a 4” edge. Is that feasible?
To edge with flaked epoxy
I would say, absolutely, I would recommend it before you put the carpet down so you can go 6 inches wide with the edge and then overlap the carpet over the epoxy. That would be the easy way to do it.
I understand "two tone" as 2000 kg 😂😂😂
I forget about the fact this is viewed around the world.
Any reason you chose a flake floor vs a more decorative coating like metallic? Thanks
It provides much better camouflage if you do damage the floor. This is a basement and not what I would consider a Showroom / living area. Metallic flooring would provide the same waterproofing aspect as the flake though.
@Concrete Floor Solutions Inc. Do metallic floors show wear easily? Hold up to UV from doors and windows? I'm looking to finish my basement floors but am not wild for vinyl chip downstairs. Is there a specific finish you would recommend for basements besides vinyl chip?
@@ryanklosterman3749 metallic floors are very smooth self leveling in nature. If you do damage your floor, it will be very easy to see.
I wouldn't say they necessarily scratch easier, but if they do scratch, it will be much easier to see the scratch than on a flake floor.
Metallic pigments are mixed with epoxy. Epoxy is not 100% UV stable so can discolor overtime. You can slow it down by applying a urethane topcoat on top of the Mettalics.
@Concrete Floor Solutions Inc. Thanks for the info! What type of floor would you recommend in a basement with a sliding door. I could put a blind over the door to protect from UV. Only a few small windows up high besides the slider. Not sure I want a chip floor in my basement but want something durable and also decorative. Thanks
@@ryanklosterman3749 either floor is going to be extremely durable. It all comes down to your personal preference and opinion.
The metallic floor will definitely look higher end.
4:40 need a funnel :D
do you use flat squeegee or notched squeegee
I always use a flat squeegee, but I have to admit I have become one with the squeegee over the years.
I would recommend a notched squeegee for first timers, it helps regulate the thickness of the material to get a good consistent coating.
if using notched, this is what I recommend:
concretefloorsolutions.com/store/accessories/speedsqueegees/
@@ConcreteFloorSolutions thanks very much
Sorry but this is NOT a waterproofing system. You should explain that to people that don't know what they are buying.
It is 100% waterproof if it gets wet, NOT to be confused with a waterproofing coating to stop water from penetrating through a floor.
I do believe I explain that it is NOT designed to stop water pushing up through a floor. Thank you for bringing that up.
I primarily need a waterproofing solution. need help! Have a moldy church basement looking for a method to waterproof the slab (put in 1970) planning on digging up the exterior walls to waterproof but water bubbles up the slab joints when it rains