Hi! The best I can do is direct you to watch the intro to my other channel's video where the fig sits in the background since I don't have an update video. You can see the crazy way it's growing towards the light of the window that isn't covered by a giant bougainvillea.😄 To your point though, it has notched lots - tough to see, but there are about 4 branches, but I don't think its from my original notches. Its because the main leader (apical meristem) is growing nearly sideways, and auxin wants to go vertical, so it's branching upwards. Check it out: ruclips.net/video/B2ZiEkjm-Fk/видео.html
It's actually a notch although it may need to be more wedged than it is. Hard to do without decapitating the branch. It's not like it's an orchard tree :)
OK these comments aren't in the order I thought. I'll cut and paste: Mine callused over due to removing too much of the roots when I transplanted at the same time. I keep saying this, but notching really has limited usefulness. If you try to notch way down on the stem, your chances of success aren't great. Just like pruning, the closer you are to the apical meristem (top growing point) the more likely you are to have success. So yes, you could notch a ways down in the woody material and then prune the branches just above and you'd have "success" because you're inhibiting the flow of auxin, but it's more from the pruning above than the notch itself. I'm doing this with no pruning.
I'm glad you found it helpful Pareekshith - keep in mind though you only do this notching method when you want to maintain the current height of your flf but also want branches. Otherwise just prune from the top which is much easier and guaranteed to produce branching. Good luck!
The notching is really neat, but I can't seem to get it to work for me. Does this technique work for all fiddle leaf figs. I notched mine in several places. The white stuff came out where I made the cut, but when it dried up it just callused over.
Hi Phillip - yes it's not easy. Mine callused over (see above comment for why I think so.) I keep saying this, but notching really has limited usefulness. If you try to notch way down on the stem, your chances of success aren't great. Just like pruning, the closer you are to the apical meristem (top growing point) the more likely you are to have success. So yes, you could notch a ways down in the woody material and then prune the branches just above and you'd have "success" because you're inhibiting the flow of auxin, but it's more from the pruning above than the notch itself. I'm doing this with no pruning.
Hi Stacy! I haven't made another one yet. That first notch didn't take for reasons I explained in the post - I ripped a lot of the roots off when I transplanted it at the same time I notched. A plant is always trying to balance out it's root:shoot ratio so if you remove lots of roots, it won't make new shoots (which is why bonsai growers root prune). I'm going to try another one when the growing season gets going. Again though - notching has limited usefulness whereas pruning is a sure thing if you're trying to produce a branch, plus you get a cutting out of it for making a new FLF.
I see there is no update yet. Can you post a pic or video of the notching results? I don’t want to try this without seeing/knowing the results. Thanks!
S a m e. I tried notching 2 months ago and it didn’t work. But I also trimmed the top of the plant which did create a new branch, so perhaps that interfered with the notching
I have no direct light at my place, all indirect bright light. It's been more than a moth I did a cut(no new branch emerged). Firstly, no white substance came out and secondly new green leaves have also stopped emerging at the top like before. Mam can you please guide?
Hi Shweta - bright, indirect light should work - place it in the best light you have. If no white latex came out, I think you didn't notch it deep enough. Make a cut just ABOVE the node 1/3 of the way around the stem and no more than 1/3 deep into the stem. The closer to the top (main growing point) you do this, the better chance of success. Let me re-state though - the ONLY reason to notch rather than prune to make branches is if you don't want to reduce the height of your FLF. Otherwise pruning will definitely work better than notching. I don't know where you live, but in the Western Hemisphere, we are essentially out of the main growing season now, so my FLF isn't producing new leaves either. This will also affect how easily it branches, so time of year could definitely be a factor now. Here's the full post with more info: www.greenhousestudio.co/home-garden/fiddle-leaf-bush-branch-trees
@@cpcxgsr It has what appears to be small buds, but not certain if they will be viable, but it definitely has new roots growing from stem. Like Charlotte's comment below - it's essentially Air Layering at this point. See FLF propagation post for air layering: www.greenhousestudio.co/home-garden/fiddle-leaf-fig-propagation So whether this yields viable branches or just roots (roots sometimes are prelude to branches) I already have list of what I'd do better next time. Specifically, note to self - don't shred the root system as I did to repot several weeks ago when hoping for notching to take! I just posted the video where you see part of the damage I did by waiting way too long to repot: ruclips.net/video/9L63WEVFVos/видео.html. Part of why pruning (which includes notching - it disrupts auxin flow) promotes branching is that the roots system tries to balance out shoot system size, but I definitely hacked off a good portion of root system! Stay tuned - will make new video when there's more definitive info either way. Another point is the closer you notch to the dominant apical meristem (top growing point) the better your chances of success because you're just below where all that auxin flow is located. I should have pulled out a ladder to do this - the tree is very tall so I did it at eye level without really thinking about the location. See the actual blog post for an explanation of apical dominance: www.greenhousestudio.co/home-garden/fiddle-leaf-bush-branch-trees
It has what appears to be small buds, but not certain if they will be viable, but it definitely has new roots growing from stem. Like Charlotte's comment - it's essentially Air Layering at this point. See FLF propagation post for air layering: www.greenhousestudio.co/home-garden/fiddle-leaf-fig-propagation So whether this yields viable branches or just roots (roots sometimes are prelude to branches) I already have list of what I'd do better next time. Specifically, note to self - don't shred the root system as I did to repot several weeks ago when hoping for notching to take! I just posted the video where you see part of the damage I did by waiting way too long to repot: ruclips.net/video/9L63WEVFVos/видео.html. Part of why pruning (which includes notching - it disrupts auxin flow) promotes branching is that the roots system tries to balance out shoot system size, but I definitely hacked off a good portion of root system! Stay tuned - will make new video when there's more definitive info either way. Another point is the closer you notch to the dominant apical meristem (top growing point) the better your chances of success because you're just below where all that auxin flow is located. I should have pulled out a ladder to do this - the tree is very tall so I did it at eye level without really thinking about the location. See the actual blog post for an explanation of apical dominance: www.greenhousestudio.co/home-garden/fiddle-leaf-bush-branch-trees
@@greenhousestudio my fig is growing out of control, single stem, and no branching. After seeing this video, I notched it and hoping something positive will materialize... Finger's crossed that a bud will form from the cut!
Hi -My crazy FLF branched but then hit the ceiling and now needs to be re-pruned hard. (It's seriously growing in an awkward zig-zag pattern atop the ceiling.) I've been focused on other projects, but I keep staring at it knowing I have to prune it, make new cuttings, and record/write up the process! 😆
Hi Parham. It's hard to picture a branch growing with no leaves. Is it perhaps an aerial root? So is it small and brown, about the width of a toothpick, and growing at about a 90 degree angle from the main branch?
@@greenhousestudio no No there are leaves but there is no new one just the top bigger branch produce new leaves and I was thinking there might be a way I can make those little branches produce new leaves too
@@parhamhosseini4381 You have to disrupt the auxin flow hormone to do that. So either pruning or notching (more difficult than pruning). Depending on where you live, we're in the dormant period now in Western Hemisphere, so any growth will be more difficult at this time of year. Read the blog post section on "Plant growth backstory - apical dominance" for a lot more detailed info: www.greenhousestudio.co/home-garden/fiddle-leaf-bush-branch-trees
@@aliafsharnaderi1875 سلام من متاسفانه چند جا هم کامنت گذاشتم کسی کمکی نتونست بکنه و البته در نهایت هم فکر کنم منظورم رو نفهمیدن :))))) من منظورم این بود که شاخه های جانبی برگ جدید نمی دن خوشحا میشم اگر شما به نتیجه ای رسیدی بگی
It has what appears to be small buds, but not certain if they will be viable, but it definitely has new roots growing from stem. Like Charlotte's comment - it's essentially Air Layering at this point. See FLF propagation post for air layering: www.greenhousestudio.co/home-garden/fiddle-leaf-fig-propagation So whether this yields viable branches or just roots (roots sometimes are prelude to branches) I already have list of what I'd do better next time. Specifically, note to self - don't shred the root system as I did to repot several weeks ago when hoping for notching to take! I just posted the video where you see part of the damage I did by waiting way too long to repot: ruclips.net/video/9L63WEVFVos/видео.html. Part of why pruning (which includes notching - it disrupts auxin flow) promotes branching is that the roots system tries to balance out shoot system size, but I definitely hacked off a good portion of root system! Stay tuned - will make new video when there's more definitive info either way. Another point is the closer you notch to the dominant apical meristem (top growing point) the better your chances of success because you're just below where all that auxin flow is located. I should have pulled out a ladder to do this - the tree is very tall so I did it at eye level without really thinking about the location. See the actual blog post for an explanation of apical dominance: www.greenhousestudio.co/home-garden/fiddle-leaf-bush-branch-trees
I'm sorry to be critical, but what is the point of making an "instructional" video on something you've never done before?! By your own admittance, this was the first time you'd ever done this, so maybe try again, once you actually know what you're talking about...? For instance, more experienced practitioners will tell you not to attempt notching on the new (green) part of the branch and only do this on the woody brown section, yet you chose an area that is only just starting to turn brown and still showing some green. Too many people making videos on things they know nothing about.
No Ash, that is in fact not the case. I've studied this formally in university unlike 98% of "more experienced practitioners" you see online. They are wrong about doing it down in woody material. Reason being auxin flow is much less the farther you are from the apical meristem. You may want a branch down there but your chances of getting one are quite low. Also, I don't manipulate my results by pruning up top first to force auxin lower, then claim "ohh I got it to notch." So perhaps you should know a bit more about what YOU are talking about before you go making criticisms. Also, this is a FREE RUclips video - you're not paying for it, and if you don't like it, don’t let the digital door hit you on the way out.
Roots appeared in the cut/notch that I did.. is that ok? I don't want this to root because I don't want to cut it.. I want it to branch instead.. what do I do?
That is SUCH a good question - and I can't believe I haven't considered it before. So your fig is air layering instead of branching!! Curious - do you live in a high humidity environment? I've researched and can't find an answer, so I reached out to a professor at U FL and a couple other sources - I will find out and let you know (and put a note about it when I do an update video)!
Here's what I've found so far (this isn't easy since most research is on air layering for propagation since that has commercial value rather than just branching) but 1) often roots appear first and shoots appear afterwards (even though we don't want roots at all here) so shoots may emerge later. 2) face the roots toward the light - this can help promote shoots over roots. I'm going to keep digging, but please keep me updated.
We're in the same boat - I also have roots - just didn't see them before! So curious to see if they branch eventually or not! I'm copy/pasting response to comment above for you: It has what appears to be small buds, but not certain if they will be viable, but it definitely has new roots growing from stem. Like Charlotte's comment - it's essentially Air Layering at this point. See FLF propagation post for air layering: www.greenhousestudio.co/home-garden/fiddle-leaf-fig-propagation So whether this yields viable branches or just roots (roots sometimes are prelude to branches) I already have list of what I'd do better next time. Specifically, note to self - don't shred the root system as I did to repot several weeks ago when hoping for notching to take! I just posted the video where you see part of the damage I did by waiting way too long to repot: ruclips.net/video/9L63WEVFVos/видео.html. Part of why pruning (which includes notching - it disrupts auxin flow) promotes branching is that the roots system tries to balance out shoot system size, but I definitely hacked off a good portion of root system! Stay tuned - will make new video when there's more definitive info either way. Another point is the closer you notch to the dominant apical meristem (top growing point) the better your chances of success because you're just below where all that auxin flow is located. I should have pulled out a ladder to do this - the tree is very tall so I did it at eye level without really thinking about the location. See the actual blog post for an explanation of apical dominance: www.greenhousestudio.co/home-garden/fiddle-leaf-bush-branch-trees
Wish you made another video to show the progression of the notching.
Tey, thanks for the video, can you please share of how your plant look now, after 2 years? Did it work?
Hi! The best I can do is direct you to watch the intro to my other channel's video where the fig sits in the background since I don't have an update video. You can see the crazy way it's growing towards the light of the window that isn't covered by a giant bougainvillea.😄 To your point though, it has notched lots - tough to see, but there are about 4 branches, but I don't think its from my original notches. Its because the main leader (apical meristem) is growing nearly sideways, and auxin wants to go vertical, so it's branching upwards. Check it out: ruclips.net/video/B2ZiEkjm-Fk/видео.html
That's a cut not a notch. Notching is doing a triangular cut which will heal slower than a normal cut which gives more time and chances for branching.
It's actually a notch although it may need to be more wedged than it is. Hard to do without decapitating the branch. It's not like it's an orchard tree :)
This was very informative! And I hope you do another update video with the results 🙂
Yes - in the works!
@@greenhousestudio I am looking forward to see the result too! How long does it take for new branches usually appear?
@@greenhousestudio Yes please, I need to see the results before I try.
Thank you for this video. I’m going to notch my already large fiddle leaf tree. Question? Did your notches produce new branches?
Hi Sunny - see the above two comments!
OK these comments aren't in the order I thought. I'll cut and paste: Mine callused over due to removing too much of the roots when I transplanted at the same time. I keep saying this, but notching really has limited usefulness. If you try to notch way down on the stem, your chances of success aren't great. Just like pruning, the closer you are to the apical meristem (top growing point) the more likely you are to have success. So yes, you could notch a ways down in the woody material and then prune the branches just above and you'd have "success" because you're inhibiting the flow of auxin, but it's more from the pruning above than the notch itself. I'm doing this with no pruning.
Thank you for the video, need to try this.
I'm glad you found it helpful Pareekshith - keep in mind though you only do this notching method when you want to maintain the current height of your flf but also want branches. Otherwise just prune from the top which is much easier and guaranteed to produce branching. Good luck!
@@scalestudio-co Ok, Understood Thank you
The notching is really neat, but I can't seem to get it to work for me. Does this technique work for all fiddle leaf figs. I notched mine in several places. The white stuff came out where I made the cut, but when it dried up it just callused over.
Hi Phillip - yes it's not easy. Mine callused over (see above comment for why I think so.) I keep saying this, but notching really has limited usefulness. If you try to notch way down on the stem, your chances of success aren't great. Just like pruning, the closer you are to the apical meristem (top growing point) the more likely you are to have success. So yes, you could notch a ways down in the woody material and then prune the branches just above and you'd have "success" because you're inhibiting the flow of auxin, but it's more from the pruning above than the notch itself. I'm doing this with no pruning.
Wondering if you have an update!
Hi Stacy! I haven't made another one yet. That first notch didn't take for reasons I explained in the post - I ripped a lot of the roots off when I transplanted it at the same time I notched. A plant is always trying to balance out it's root:shoot ratio so if you remove lots of roots, it won't make new shoots (which is why bonsai growers root prune). I'm going to try another one when the growing season gets going. Again though - notching has limited usefulness whereas pruning is a sure thing if you're trying to produce a branch, plus you get a cutting out of it for making a new FLF.
I see there is no update yet. Can you post a pic or video of the notching results? I don’t want to try this without seeing/knowing the results. Thanks!
S a m e. I tried notching 2 months ago and it didn’t work. But I also trimmed the top of the plant which did create a new branch, so perhaps that interfered with the notching
Oh no! I cut the leaves off the bottom of the stem before learning this 😞
It will be ok - FLFs are pretty tough! (This is Greenhouse Studio replying from a different account btw :)
Ok . You did it . Where is the result
I have no direct light at my place, all indirect bright light. It's been more than a moth I did a cut(no new branch emerged). Firstly, no white substance came out and secondly new green leaves have also stopped emerging at the top like before.
Mam can you please guide?
Hi Shweta - bright, indirect light should work - place it in the best light you have. If no white latex came out, I think you didn't notch it deep enough. Make a cut just ABOVE the node 1/3 of the way around the stem and no more than 1/3 deep into the stem. The closer to the top (main growing point) you do this, the better chance of success. Let me re-state though - the ONLY reason to notch rather than prune to make branches is if you don't want to reduce the height of your FLF. Otherwise pruning will definitely work better than notching.
I don't know where you live, but in the Western Hemisphere, we are essentially out of the main growing season now, so my FLF isn't producing new leaves either. This will also affect how easily it branches, so time of year could definitely be a factor now.
Here's the full post with more info:
www.greenhousestudio.co/home-garden/fiddle-leaf-bush-branch-trees
Please share the result, thanks.
Coming soon!
@@greenhousestudio did your notch yield any branching?!?
@@cpcxgsr It has what appears to be small buds, but not certain if they will be viable, but it definitely has new roots growing from stem. Like Charlotte's comment below - it's essentially Air Layering at this point. See FLF propagation post for air layering:
www.greenhousestudio.co/home-garden/fiddle-leaf-fig-propagation
So whether this yields viable branches or just roots (roots sometimes are prelude to branches) I already have list of what I'd do better next time. Specifically, note to self - don't shred the root system as I did to repot several weeks ago when hoping for notching to take! I just posted the video where you see part of the damage I did by waiting way too long to repot:
ruclips.net/video/9L63WEVFVos/видео.html.
Part of why pruning (which includes notching - it disrupts auxin flow) promotes branching is that the roots system tries to balance out shoot system size, but I definitely hacked off a good portion of root system! Stay tuned - will make new video when there's more definitive info either way.
Another point is the closer you notch to the dominant apical meristem (top growing point) the better your chances of success because you're just below where all that auxin flow is located. I should have pulled out a ladder to do this - the tree is very tall so I did it at eye level without really thinking about the location. See the actual blog post for an explanation of apical dominance:
www.greenhousestudio.co/home-garden/fiddle-leaf-bush-branch-trees
It has what appears to be small buds, but not certain if they will be viable, but it definitely has new roots growing from stem. Like Charlotte's comment - it's essentially Air Layering at this point. See FLF propagation post for air layering:
www.greenhousestudio.co/home-garden/fiddle-leaf-fig-propagation
So whether this yields viable branches or just roots (roots sometimes are prelude to branches) I already have list of what I'd do better next time. Specifically, note to self - don't shred the root system as I did to repot several weeks ago when hoping for notching to take! I just posted the video where you see part of the damage I did by waiting way too long to repot:
ruclips.net/video/9L63WEVFVos/видео.html.
Part of why pruning (which includes notching - it disrupts auxin flow) promotes branching is that the roots system tries to balance out shoot system size, but I definitely hacked off a good portion of root system! Stay tuned - will make new video when there's more definitive info either way.
Another point is the closer you notch to the dominant apical meristem (top growing point) the better your chances of success because you're just below where all that auxin flow is located. I should have pulled out a ladder to do this - the tree is very tall so I did it at eye level without really thinking about the location. See the actual blog post for an explanation of apical dominance:
www.greenhousestudio.co/home-garden/fiddle-leaf-bush-branch-trees
@@greenhousestudio my fig is growing out of control, single stem, and no branching. After seeing this video, I notched it and hoping something positive will materialize...
Finger's crossed that a bud will form from the cut!
Is there an update video on this? I can't seem to find it on your channel
Hi -My crazy FLF branched but then hit the ceiling and now needs to be re-pruned hard. (It's seriously growing in an awkward zig-zag pattern atop the ceiling.) I've been focused on other projects, but I keep staring at it knowing I have to prune it, make new cuttings, and record/write up the process! 😆
it's amazing she still has all her fingers 🤦🏻♀️
hehe! Totally agree Keya! It was dicey, but I still found it easier than using a pair of pruners. 😆
My fiddle leaf already has two branches but there is no grow and new leafs from those branches, is there any way i can make them to grow?
Hi Parham. It's hard to picture a branch growing with no leaves. Is it perhaps an aerial root? So is it small and brown, about the width of a toothpick, and growing at about a 90 degree angle from the main branch?
@@greenhousestudio no No there are leaves but there is no new one just the top bigger branch produce new leaves and I was thinking there might be a way I can make those little branches produce new leaves too
@@parhamhosseini4381 You have to disrupt the auxin flow hormone to do that. So either pruning or notching (more difficult than pruning). Depending on where you live, we're in the dormant period now in Western Hemisphere, so any growth will be more difficult at this time of year. Read the blog post section on "Plant growth backstory - apical dominance" for a lot more detailed info: www.greenhousestudio.co/home-garden/fiddle-leaf-bush-branch-trees
سلام پرهام جان . من هم مشکلی نظیر مشکل شما دارم . کاری در این مورد کردید ؟ نتیجه ای گرفتید؟
@@aliafsharnaderi1875 سلام
من متاسفانه چند جا هم کامنت گذاشتم کسی کمکی نتونست بکنه
و البته در نهایت هم فکر کنم منظورم رو نفهمیدن :)))))
من منظورم این بود که شاخه های جانبی برگ جدید نمی دن
خوشحا میشم اگر شما به نتیجه ای رسیدی بگی
Is there an update?
Not very comforting "this is the first time I've done it" haha
Not complete
any updates?
Coming soon!
It has what appears to be small buds, but not certain if they will be viable, but it definitely has new roots growing from stem. Like Charlotte's comment - it's essentially Air Layering at this point. See FLF propagation post for air layering:
www.greenhousestudio.co/home-garden/fiddle-leaf-fig-propagation
So whether this yields viable branches or just roots (roots sometimes are prelude to branches) I already have list of what I'd do better next time. Specifically, note to self - don't shred the root system as I did to repot several weeks ago when hoping for notching to take! I just posted the video where you see part of the damage I did by waiting way too long to repot:
ruclips.net/video/9L63WEVFVos/видео.html.
Part of why pruning (which includes notching - it disrupts auxin flow) promotes branching is that the roots system tries to balance out shoot system size, but I definitely hacked off a good portion of root system! Stay tuned - will make new video when there's more definitive info either way.
Another point is the closer you notch to the dominant apical meristem (top growing point) the better your chances of success because you're just below where all that auxin flow is located. I should have pulled out a ladder to do this - the tree is very tall so I did it at eye level without really thinking about the location. See the actual blog post for an explanation of apical dominance:
www.greenhousestudio.co/home-garden/fiddle-leaf-bush-branch-trees
I'm sorry to be critical, but what is the point of making an "instructional" video on something you've never done before?! By your own admittance, this was the first time you'd ever done this, so maybe try again, once you actually know what you're talking about...? For instance, more experienced practitioners will tell you not to attempt notching on the new (green) part of the branch and only do this on the woody brown section, yet you chose an area that is only just starting to turn brown and still showing some green.
Too many people making videos on things they know nothing about.
No Ash, that is in fact not the case. I've studied this formally in university unlike 98% of "more experienced practitioners" you see online. They are wrong about doing it down in woody material. Reason being auxin flow is much less the farther you are from the apical meristem. You may want a branch down there but your chances of getting one are quite low. Also, I don't manipulate my results by pruning up top first to force auxin lower, then claim "ohh I got it to notch." So perhaps you should know a bit more about what YOU are talking about before you go making criticisms. Also, this is a FREE RUclips video - you're not paying for it, and if you don't like it, don’t let the digital door hit you on the way out.
@@greenhousestudio I stand corrected. Thanks for the explanation.
@@Ash-fw4uk No worries and I appreciate it. And there is a lot of regurgitated plant info online, so I get the skepticism.
Roots appeared in the cut/notch that I did.. is that ok? I don't want this to root because I don't want to cut it.. I want it to branch instead.. what do I do?
That is SUCH a good question - and I can't believe I haven't considered it before. So your fig is air layering instead of branching!! Curious - do you live in a high humidity environment? I've researched and can't find an answer, so I reached out to a professor at U FL and a couple other sources - I will find out and let you know (and put a note about it when I do an update video)!
Here's what I've found so far (this isn't easy since most research is on air layering for propagation since that has commercial value rather than just branching) but 1) often roots appear first and shoots appear afterwards (even though we don't want roots at all here) so shoots may emerge later. 2) face the roots toward the light - this can help promote shoots over roots. I'm going to keep digging, but please keep me updated.
We're in the same boat - I also have roots - just didn't see them before! So curious to see if they branch eventually or not! I'm copy/pasting response to comment above for you:
It has what appears to be small buds, but not certain if they will be viable, but it definitely has new roots growing from stem. Like Charlotte's comment - it's essentially Air Layering at this point. See FLF propagation post for air layering:
www.greenhousestudio.co/home-garden/fiddle-leaf-fig-propagation
So whether this yields viable branches or just roots (roots sometimes are prelude to branches) I already have list of what I'd do better next time. Specifically, note to self - don't shred the root system as I did to repot several weeks ago when hoping for notching to take! I just posted the video where you see part of the damage I did by waiting way too long to repot:
ruclips.net/video/9L63WEVFVos/видео.html.
Part of why pruning (which includes notching - it disrupts auxin flow) promotes branching is that the roots system tries to balance out shoot system size, but I definitely hacked off a good portion of root system! Stay tuned - will make new video when there's more definitive info either way.
Another point is the closer you notch to the dominant apical meristem (top growing point) the better your chances of success because you're just below where all that auxin flow is located. I should have pulled out a ladder to do this - the tree is very tall so I did it at eye level without really thinking about the location. See the actual blog post for an explanation of apical dominance:
www.greenhousestudio.co/home-garden/fiddle-leaf-bush-branch-trees
3:21
O