Great explanation. I just re-setup my little studio with a new interface. I could have opted to forego the patch bay and could have managed just fine, but I already had the patch bay, rack and cabling, so I went ahead and used them. I just have a cheap 1/4 inch patch bay, but it's always worked perfectly and I love the added flexibility it offers. I would, however, stress to anyone the importance of good labeling. If you've got a Dymo label printer, great, but at the very least a cheap roll of masking tape and marker will work. Don't trust your memory. Label every single input and output.
Nice job of explaining patch bays. I've never gone down that road because I didn't fully understand them. I have about all the hardware I can handle without one so this came at just the right time. Thanks Barry!
Bantam aka TT or tiny telephone. 1/4 Long Frame or MIL(Military)-style, different than common 1/4" TRS There is also rear punch-down type patch bays that can be economical, more complicated to install than DB25 but more flexible options. Great for permanent/purpose-built installations. Love the early Christmas vibe Barry.
I've been using the Anatal Xbay Digital patch since it first came out. started with 256 and have a a 512 pp coming. It's amazing! you can save templates, route things in seconds, save fave chains. I can switch from a tracking session, save the i/o config and open my mixing template that has all my outputs routed to my capi sumbus 32 channel in 15 seconds. Than I can drop outboard between the two on things that don't require automation. Getting an wes audio NG Leveler soon to put just before the capi sum bus, than I can do my balance and automation after outboard just before it hits the the capi. Good living in 2023 good vid!
Great video Barry! I upgraded to the switchcraft after many years of using a TRS patchbay. It’s been a game changer in my studio. The wise thing I did was purchase DB25 cables over the years which made the transition easy.
I have normalizing on my quarter inch patch bay, I have a hybrid set up my SSL XDESK is all DB25’s to quarter inch to the patch bay, I may upgrade to bantom but yep my wiring is a bit complex but workable for now. My patchbay is a mess I admit. This was a simplified explanation…patching can get complex depending on what type of uses your planning to do but this was a nice intro to patch bays.
Very helpful. I’m looking at upgrading my interface (Presonus itwo audiobox) to a “real” one and looking to getting some hardware pieces (mostly 500 series). I tend to go with the best at the lowest cost but I don’t want to have to upgrade every few years (feel like that’s a possibility with the first 2 patch bays you discussed). Very informative and helpful for someone like me who is beginning their recording/mixing/mastering journey 😊
Question, when you half normal a signal does the both split signal keep the same level of gain/volume? Could you use this to change a mono signal into a stereo signal?
Great video! Half-normalled Mults are definitely king. You don't need a 56 input board and lots of outboard to benefit from a patchbay either. I've used patchbays in both my big and small studio setups. It really can't be fully appreciated, having access to your all of your gear's I/O's, until you've had to crawl under or squeeze behind racks of gear and a huge multi-channel mixing desk. LOL
I have a hi end analog mastering chain I am building, and was thinking of getting a Dangerous Liason, or a Flock patchbay. I’m a little scared of adding noise or signal degradation with cheaper patch bays (or even the flock). I’d love to just get a “regular” one though. Do you think for mastering applications I’d be better off with a high end router? Will incorporate more mixing gear eventually too I suppose
I'm having issues with phantom power and patch bays. I can't seem to find any good videos on this topic. 1 snake in my live room feeds the top of patch bay 1 and the bottom of patch bay one goes directly to my mixing console. I have no issues using the phantom power on the console, but if I want to send #1 mic to an outboard mic pre, which is connected to patch bay 2, I cannot use the mic pre's phantom power. And for the sake of "simplicity" lets say I have both patch bays in "thru mode" which requires a physical connection. This description may be "as clear as mud", but if you have a suggestion it would be much appreciated. Great Video. (I'm using two SAMSON S Patch plus 1/4", balanced, patch bays)
You explained it perfectly for me to understand! Thankyou! One question, do you have a patchbay with selectable behaviours for each input/output pair? And do you have it individually set up depending on which piece you are patching? If so, how do you manage or plan that? For example, I have an Audient id44 that allows me to insert external hardware and I have a Pultec clone and an 1176 clone that I usually connect like id44>Pultec>1176 to record vocals. Sometimes I want to change the order of the elements and it’s a pain in the a** to do it. It is a common practice to connect Input of Pultec to the back of the patchbay 1B (being A the upper row and B the lower one), then Pultec Output to 2A, 1176 Input to 2B in Normal mode (so they are connected) and then maybe 1176 Output to 1A (A Not normal) so then I can plug the send of Id44 to 1B and the return to 1A from the front and that will be connected but I would have the freedom to then manipulate my signal flow from the front. I don’t know if I’m expressed this the best way I could😅 Any help from anyone that has experience with patchbays will be appreciated ❤ Great videosas always, happy new year!
I'm following you but I still don't know which to buy since I don't know what Outboard GEAR & how much I'm going to end up with? ( I think I just needs to to start making that LIST and draw on paper or computer to see how i'll be USEING the GEAR? Thank you Barry for doing another PATCH BAY Video! George
You mention most 1/4" TRS patch bays do not allow normalling. I haven't noticed that at all. The 6 I have all support normaling and are between $80-$130...Most popular ones you see on Sweetwater, etc... My favorite is the Samson S-patch. Little switch right on the front for changing types of normaling or pass-thru, half, etc... Having said this... If I could do it all over again, I'd go with db-25 type FOR SURE. Just couldn't afford it at the time. I am in a 48 channel hybrid environment and inherited a 48ch console... So many cables it a nightmare! If I didn't have all of these 16ch TRS snakes and had to buy db-25 snakes and patch bays, it would have set me back quite awhile. For anyone early in the process, get the db-25 if you plan on a larger system.
Barry I really enjoy your videos. Would you be willing to have a call to talk through interface, outboard, configuration optimization. I am running a UAD Apollo x8p as well as x16. The x16 is being used for 12 outputs for atmos monitoring. By doing that it has caused a bit of a challenge when setting up outboard gear with tie lines and such.
Like to see you do a feasibility test using a Pherofish 16 as a patch bay. Like how many times can you go in and out of it before latency or sound degradation occurs. Trying to use it instead of a Flock audio patchbay which is crazy expensive.
This is perfect. I had the Samson patchbayy and sold it. I should not have. I will buy one now that I understand. Thank you
Looks like you’re back with a bang. Good stuff!
Barry, that was very helpful. THANK YOU SIR!!
Great explanation. I just re-setup my little studio with a new interface. I could have opted to forego the patch bay and could have managed just fine, but I already had the patch bay, rack and cabling, so I went ahead and used them. I just have a cheap 1/4 inch patch bay, but it's always worked perfectly and I love the added flexibility it offers. I would, however, stress to anyone the importance of good labeling. If you've got a Dymo label printer, great, but at the very least a cheap roll of masking tape and marker will work. Don't trust your memory. Label every single input and output.
Nice job of explaining patch bays. I've never gone down that road because I didn't fully understand them. I have about all the hardware I can handle without one so this came at just the right time. Thanks Barry!
Great as always Barry 🤘
Thank you for the rundown!
Bantam aka TT or tiny telephone.
1/4 Long Frame or MIL(Military)-style, different than common 1/4" TRS
There is also rear punch-down type patch bays that can be economical, more complicated to install than DB25 but more flexible options. Great for permanent/purpose-built installations.
Love the early Christmas vibe Barry.
Thanks!
🙏
Thanks Barry, u always seem to hit the subjects that are needed. Keep em coming.
I've been using the Anatal Xbay Digital patch since it first came out. started with 256 and have a a 512 pp coming.
It's amazing! you can save templates, route things in seconds, save fave chains.
I can switch from a tracking session, save the i/o config and open my mixing template that has all my outputs routed to my capi sumbus 32 channel in 15 seconds. Than I can drop outboard between the two on things that don't require automation.
Getting an wes audio NG Leveler soon to put just before the capi sum bus, than I can do my balance and automation after outboard just before it hits the the capi.
Good living in 2023
good vid!
Super helpful instructions!! Thanks
Great video Barry!
I upgraded to the switchcraft after many years of using a TRS patchbay. It’s been a game changer in my studio. The wise thing I did was purchase DB25 cables over the years which made the transition easy.
Great video brother
Great explanation for what can be for a beginner very, very, confusing.
I have normalizing on my quarter inch patch bay, I have a hybrid set up my SSL XDESK is all DB25’s to quarter inch to the patch bay, I may upgrade to bantom but yep my wiring is a bit complex but workable for now. My patchbay is a mess I admit. This was a simplified explanation…patching can get complex depending on what type of uses your planning to do but this was a nice intro to patch bays.
Very helpful. I’m looking at upgrading my interface (Presonus itwo audiobox) to a “real” one and looking to getting some hardware pieces (mostly 500 series). I tend to go with the best at the lowest cost but I don’t want to have to upgrade every few years (feel like that’s a possibility with the first 2 patch bays you discussed). Very informative and helpful for someone like me who is beginning their recording/mixing/mastering journey 😊
Question, when you half normal a signal does the both split signal keep the same level of gain/volume? Could you use this to change a mono signal into a stereo signal?
Great video!
Half-normalled Mults are definitely king.
You don't need a 56 input board and lots of outboard to benefit from a patchbay either.
I've used patchbays in both my big and small studio setups.
It really can't be fully appreciated, having access to your all of your gear's I/O's,
until you've had to crawl under or squeeze behind racks of gear and a huge multi-channel mixing desk. LOL
I have a hi end analog mastering chain I am building, and was thinking of getting a Dangerous Liason, or a Flock patchbay.
I’m a little scared of adding noise or signal degradation with cheaper patch bays (or even the flock). I’d love to just get a “regular” one though. Do you think for mastering applications I’d be better off with a high end router? Will incorporate more mixing gear eventually too I suppose
Flock Audio Patch Bay is the best way I believe
Thanks for making this video LOL
I like to think I helped spark this LOL
thank you
I'm having issues with phantom power and patch bays. I can't seem to find any good videos on this topic. 1 snake in my live room feeds the top of patch bay 1 and the bottom of patch bay one goes directly to my mixing console. I have no issues using the phantom power on the console, but if I want to send #1 mic to an outboard mic pre, which is connected to patch bay 2, I cannot use the mic pre's phantom power. And for the sake of "simplicity" lets say I have both patch bays in "thru mode" which requires a physical connection. This description may be "as clear as mud", but if you have a suggestion it would be much appreciated. Great Video. (I'm using two SAMSON S Patch plus 1/4", balanced, patch bays)
You explained it perfectly for me to understand! Thankyou!
One question, do you have a patchbay with selectable behaviours for each input/output pair? And do you have it individually set up depending on which piece you are patching? If so, how do you manage or plan that?
For example, I have an Audient id44 that allows me to insert external hardware and I have a Pultec clone and an 1176 clone that I usually connect like id44>Pultec>1176 to record vocals. Sometimes I want to change the order of the elements and it’s a pain in the a** to do it.
It is a common practice to connect Input of Pultec to the back of the patchbay 1B (being A the upper row and B the lower one), then Pultec Output to 2A, 1176 Input to 2B in Normal mode (so they are connected) and then maybe 1176 Output to 1A (A Not normal) so then I can plug the send of Id44 to 1B and the return to 1A from the front and that will be connected but I would have the freedom to then manipulate my signal flow from the front.
I don’t know if I’m expressed this the best way I could😅
Any help from anyone that has experience with patchbays will be appreciated ❤
Great videosas always, happy new year!
Barry, can you show us DB-25 building?
What tools & parts (prices & suppliers)?
Funny thing, I have 2 in my studio desk, I set default routing when I installed them. I’ve changed that like 3 times in a year.
Never heard of DB25. Very interesting option 👁👍🏼. 8 in 1, more secure, less messy. Awesome.
I'm following you but I still don't know which to buy since I don't know what Outboard GEAR & how much I'm going to end up with? ( I think I just needs to to start making that LIST and draw on paper or computer to see how i'll be USEING the GEAR? Thank you Barry for doing another PATCH BAY Video! George
You mention most 1/4" TRS patch bays do not allow normalling. I haven't noticed that at all. The 6 I have all support normaling and are between $80-$130...Most popular ones you see on Sweetwater, etc... My favorite is the Samson S-patch. Little switch right on the front for changing types of normaling or pass-thru, half, etc... Having said this... If I could do it all over again, I'd go with db-25 type FOR SURE. Just couldn't afford it at the time. I am in a 48 channel hybrid environment and inherited a 48ch console... So many cables it a nightmare! If I didn't have all of these 16ch TRS snakes and had to buy db-25 snakes and patch bays, it would have set me back quite awhile. For anyone early in the process, get the db-25 if you plan on a larger system.
Barry,
How do you recommend handling unbalanced lines for guitars, etc?
Barry you really should mention the Flock Audio Patch system.
Most of the 1/4 inch patchbays have the ability to normal, half normal or denormal by switching the circuit around.
HEY unk! Reach out to SKAA. They have wireless technology so you don’t have to deal with spaghetti 🍝 wires!
Barry I really enjoy your videos. Would you be willing to have a call to talk through interface, outboard, configuration optimization. I am running a UAD Apollo x8p as well as x16. The x16 is being used for 12 outputs for atmos monitoring. By doing that it has caused a bit of a challenge when setting up outboard gear with tie lines and such.
Like to see you do a feasibility test using a Pherofish 16 as a patch bay. Like how many times can you go in and out of it before latency or sound degradation occurs. Trying to use it instead of a Flock audio patchbay which is crazy expensive.
😅 2:18 🎉
You forgot about digital patch base
TT is the more common name.