Hah that's a great use for those pants wee irwin quick clamps. I'll have to do this with mine. I suspect welding one of those t-track bolts to the clamp bar would work. Even epoxy/JB weld would do it I think.
The hole in the piece of wood was a good idea. Angle grinder on a piece of wood for horizontal control Often I find people's techniques of doing instructive.
The first time I used my Bosch track saw guide rail it moved, despite the blurb sawing its weight and rubber insert would keep it steady. As much as I hate losing even the two clamps, the Bosch FSN KZW clamps are a crazy £66 on Amazon, so easily worth it. Plus I have full metal working facilities at my Menz Shed, so I know what my wee project for tomorrow is going to be (I'm a retired toolmaker). BTW I noticed there was perhaps a bit more resistance to sliding my saw on the track. Do you use wax to make the saw slide more easily? I am using the slightly bigger GKS 18V-68GC saw which weighs 4.3Kg so that might make a difference. Thanks for the idea.
Mine only moves sometimes, so if material is smooth I’ll clamp it. I guess ensuring rubbers underneath are clean. I don’t use wax but that sounds like a good idea, silicon spray might work good too, will need to try it, thanks for the suggestion.
I think if I had access to a 3D printer I would have made a part that slides into the track and has a hole through it to bolt to the clamp. Although perhaps the plastic wouldn't have been strong enough when under tension
Sounds like a good idea for 3d printing carbon fibre - may still be too weak for such a thin part (was only about a 1.8 mm thick or something like that) or 3d metal print/sintering
I much prefer your finished clamp, the 1st one was so out of line it didn't really stand a chance. I'm glad you persisted and I live the 3D printed components! A 3D printer would be my dream at the moment...... that or an X carve...... or both lol
The workbench is the RYOBI RWB002, I bought it from Bunnings Australia for $99. I was in two minds whether to return it or not, but decided to keep it in the end. I was thinking I could work around some of its drawbacks. This was some of the questions I had for Ryobi and their answers: 1) When clamping the rear platform pivots and lifts up to 5mm off the rail meaning the clamps are out of alignment and the piece being clamped is free to wobble. Why is their so much play is the spring loaded mechanism. (A1) There isn't an adjustment & that is the way it is. If there were a very close tolerance the back table would be much harder to move & jam. It still will hold your work & if you feel the need be as a suggestion adjust the rear top to position & then place a wedge between the underside rear of the table top & rail before tightening the front top. 2) When moving the top from the closed 80deg position to the horizontal position you have to push and hold both side knobs in. If both hands are holding the knobs in, how is one supposed to raise the table? (A2) Pull the table up on one side to the other. Push one side knob in & pull the table up so it is just past a detent position & then go to the other side & pull that so it pulls thru to the next detent position & repeat till horizontal. 3) The instructions mention that the green clamps can be tightened to lock them in the track, but they don't and can still slide, it just increases the friction marginally. Why is this? (A3) The knobs on the green clamps will just adjust the friction only. They are there to clamp material between the 2 tops & not designed or intended to clamp across the one top. 4) Why are the assembly instructions so poor. It lists 3 different types of nut/bolt combos but does not number them, you have to deduce which screws are for which holes. The assembly images only appear to show one size of bolt. Wouldn't it have been better to list a part letter next to each bold and use a corresponding letter in the assembly image? (A4) Manuals are done overseas & we have little influence over the content etc. It has been mentioned in the past but it seems falls on deaf ears im sorry. 5) The black plastic track clips do not fit the track and I had to knock them into the track initially with a mallet. (A5) The plastic end caps on the table top are manufactured that way so when carrying or transporting the table they wont just slide off so much less chance of loosing them. Its a once off assembly thing anyhow. Ryobi Customer Care
Love the angle grinder cut off jig, so simple, brilliant!
Thanks - its in this video if you haven't seen it - ruclips.net/video/jpuuDENxYqU/видео.html
Hah that's a great use for those pants wee irwin quick clamps. I'll have to do this with mine. I suspect welding one of those t-track bolts to the clamp bar would work. Even epoxy/JB weld would do it I think.
I would love to have a go at welding some time
The hole in the piece of wood was a good idea.
Angle grinder on a piece of wood for horizontal control
Often I find people's techniques of doing instructive.
thanks
makes a great paper weight!
I have used it for that when I am not using them...
The first time I used my Bosch track saw guide rail it moved, despite the blurb sawing its weight and rubber insert would keep it steady. As much as I hate losing even the two clamps, the Bosch FSN KZW clamps are a crazy £66 on Amazon, so easily worth it. Plus I have full metal working facilities at my Menz Shed, so I know what my wee project for tomorrow is going to be (I'm a retired toolmaker). BTW I noticed there was perhaps a bit more resistance to sliding my saw on the track. Do you use wax to make the saw slide more easily? I am using the slightly bigger GKS 18V-68GC saw which weighs 4.3Kg so that might make a difference. Thanks for the idea.
Mine only moves sometimes, so if material is smooth I’ll clamp it. I guess ensuring rubbers underneath are clean. I don’t use wax but that sounds like a good idea, silicon spray might work good too, will need to try it, thanks for the suggestion.
I think if I had access to a 3D printer I would have made a part that slides into the track and has a hole through it to bolt to the clamp. Although perhaps the plastic wouldn't have been strong enough when under tension
Sounds like a good idea for 3d printing carbon fibre - may still be too weak for such a thin part (was only about a 1.8 mm thick or something like that) or 3d metal print/sintering
I much prefer your finished clamp, the 1st one was so out of line it didn't really stand a chance. I'm glad you persisted and I live the 3D printed components! A 3D printer would be my dream at the moment...... that or an X carve...... or both lol
Yup, experimentation is great to pick out those ideas that simply don't work. I'd love an x-carve too.
Good Job! What's the model number of the Ryobi workbench and where did you buy it? Thanks
The workbench is the RYOBI RWB002, I bought it from Bunnings Australia for $99. I was in two minds whether to return it or not, but decided to keep it in the end. I was thinking I could work around some of its drawbacks. This was some of the questions I had for Ryobi and their answers: 1) When clamping the rear platform pivots and lifts up to 5mm off the rail meaning the clamps are out of alignment and the piece being clamped is free to wobble. Why is their so much play is the spring loaded mechanism.
(A1) There isn't an adjustment & that is the way it is. If there were a very close tolerance the back table would be much harder to move & jam. It still will hold your work & if you feel the need be as a suggestion adjust the rear top to position & then place a wedge between the underside rear of the table top & rail before tightening the front top.
2) When moving the top from the closed 80deg position to the horizontal position you have to push and hold both side knobs in. If both hands are holding the knobs in, how is one supposed to raise the table?
(A2) Pull the table up on one side to the other. Push one side knob in & pull the table up so it is just past a detent position & then go to the other side & pull that so it pulls thru to the next detent position & repeat till horizontal.
3) The instructions mention that the green clamps can be tightened to lock them in the track, but they don't and can still slide, it just increases the friction marginally. Why is this?
(A3) The knobs on the green clamps will just adjust the friction only. They are there to clamp material between the 2 tops & not designed or intended to clamp across the one top.
4) Why are the assembly instructions so poor. It lists 3 different types of nut/bolt combos but does not number them, you have to deduce which screws are for which holes. The assembly images only appear to show one size of bolt.
Wouldn't it have been better to list a part letter next to each bold and use a corresponding letter in the assembly image?
(A4) Manuals are done overseas & we have little influence over the content etc. It has been mentioned in the past but it seems falls on deaf ears im sorry.
5) The black plastic track clips do not fit the track and I had to knock them into the track initially with a mallet.
(A5) The plastic end caps on the table top are manufactured that way so when carrying or transporting the table they wont just slide off so much less chance of loosing them. Its a once off assembly thing anyhow.
Ryobi Customer Care
Thank you for your very comprehensive feedback. Appreciate it.
Cheers.
Could have welded a washer on top and cut off the width
Would be cool to get a welder at some point, that's a great idea, might try out something similar
@@RandomSmith I never welded in my life got a cheap flux core welder from Lidl quick to pick up and very handy