1965 Ford Mustang Floor Pan Removal and Replacement! | Interior Floor Painting| Part 4
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- Опубликовано: 11 окт 2024
- In this video I remove the passenger and driver side rear floor pans. I then weld in new floor pan replacements. I clean the floor, seam seal everything and paint the floor pan with Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator Plus. SUBSCRIBE & LIKE for more content!
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No guts no glory. Your skills get better with each task. Good job Grasshopper
🙏 Thank you!
Its been to long since the last video! I love this series
just discored it these days and subscribed instantly
Man I wish I can do this stuff this is my mom's favorite car maybe in the future I can love the videos not gonna lie your videos are great I have been watching your videos since yesterday night and I'm already in love with your videos
I’m going to replace carpet in my 65 Mustang. Your video is what I need to verify what I’m planning on doing. 😊
That's awesome! Good luck with it!
Loving this series man, really enjoy watching your progress on this Mustang! Thanks for the vids bro.
Watching you work on your car while working on mine XD
Learning from you so your vid’s are super helpful and finding little things that are affordable as well.
And yes the SoCal weather as of late… suuuuuuuucks rn!
That's awesome! Thanks for checking out my videos, I'm glad they're helping!
Great work in time your welding will improve what a great car love the mustangs here in Australia looking forward to your next video
Thanks! Yeah by the end of the welding I was starting to get the hang of it a little more. Just in time for the exterior welding that I have to do haha.
Nice job welding the floor pans and metal patches! Looks great with seam sealer and the rust encapsulator. No more Flintstones car!
Thanks!
Always on the lookout for the next ep of this build. awesome stuff man
Thanks!
I am really enjoying your build. Great communication, music, editing. Awesome job on the floor panels.once you go gas, you never go back.😃
Thank you for following along!
Good repairs on the floorpans. I replaced mine and I had never welded before I tackled that. I use the Titanium Flux core on mine. As you said it does a great job. It is a bit more messy with the welds with splatter.
Thanks! Yeah the Titanium does a great job, I used it on my electric motorbike build!
nice videos keep up the great work!!!
ive been loving this series dude. keep it up 👍
Thanks, will do!
GOOD ON YA .. roll like a KING
Really been enjoying your content on the mustang! It's got me pretty excited to start on my 66🙂
Thanks for following along! That's awesome! Yeah I feel like making the videos is helping me to keep on track and stay motivated to knock out this restoration.
Nice work! Looks really good.
Hello there, your butt welding was awesome 😎 🆒,!!! I'm just not patient enough, to go all of the way like that.. So cool... It came out so great 👍!!!
The only issue, I had was screaming at my phone, when you welded the seatbelt anchor plate.. I did like 6 of those things, as I added shoulder harness bolt locations on the inner roof rails of my FB. You had the anchor upsidedown... It will still work just fine really, and no one's gonna see it anyway !! The car is coming along nicely.. I kept checking for your next post.. Thanks for sharing. keep them coming..
Whoopsies! I had no idea. I should have probably put a bolt in to check it before I welded it in haha. Oh well, as long as it will work. Thanks for letting me know! Yeah I'm also going to add in 3 point seat belts as well. Thanks for following along!
@@VanHoutenBuilds I used two of those anchors for the over the shoulder bolt points, there's an oval opening in the 65 fastback inner roof line, located right where I it needed to be, I cut the about 3/8"s off the bracket top and bottom length ways, and it fit into the oval opening, I measured and drilled a hole for the seatbelt bolt, and a hole on each side of the bolt, to rosette weld it to the roof line. I can sed pics if youd like ?
@@TheJoefussGarage Yes, please! That would be super helpful to see how you did it. Thanks! info@vanhoutenguitars.com
How much of the rust encapsulator did you use? I'm about to tackle a similar project and I'm curious on how much I should buy. I'm thinking 2 quarts should cover the entire floorpan + trunk.
Are you putting any products over the encapsulator? My floorboards are a mix of surface rust and factory(?) coating so my plan is to strip it to bare metal, then brush on like you did. Then most likely a sound deadener.
Nice! So I just used a quart, which got me through 2 coats on the interior floor pan. I spray painted the trunk with duplicolor engine enamel. Probably would have needed 2 quarts if I did they trunk with the rust encapsulator there as well. Make sure you wear a good respirator and have good ventilation when doing it. That stuff is super fume-y!
@@VanHoutenBuilds appreciate the follow up. I noticed you didn't strip all the factory paint up before painting. Were you concerned with the paint not sticking?
My floor boards have some type of coating + rust so my plan is to strip it down to bare metal first. Looking at the Bauer reconditioning tool to get it done. Between that for big spaces and a drill + paint stripping attachment it looks doable.
@@thomaslee7684 So I wasn't really concerned about getting every bit of paint up before hitting it with the rust reformer. I just made sure to scuff up the remaining paint so the rust reformer would adhere to it. That stuff is made to go over rusty metal, so it adheres to pretty much everything very well. I also removed a ton of old crusty seam sealer, which I didn't really showcase in the video. Then I re-seam sealed everything. It also depends on the climate and conditions your car with be in. I'm in southern California and this will be garage kept or covered whenever I'm not driving. So I'm not too worried about much rust coming back.
@@VanHoutenBuilds Yeah I'm in Utah, garage kept as well so I'm with you on that. I'll get to work this week and go with the rustoleum 👍 I like the option to brush it on (with a respirator) rather than spraying.
@@thomaslee7684 I would maybe recommend using the eastwood rust encapsulator for the interior floor pans as it's a bit more heavy duty, and the the rustoleum rust reformer for other parts of the car.
Kind of a random question, I'm about to do the same thing to my 66 mustang. I've got the floor panels. When you laid the tape prior to cutting out the floor piece was that only for keeping a straight line?
Yes, that was to help me keep a strait cut line. Good luck with your floor pans!
Nice job
Very nice 👍🏾
Lizard skin is more of a sound deadening/heat barrier product then it is a sealer or rust preventor.
Ahh good to know! I would have gone that route if it weren't so expensive. Seems like good stuff. Instead I just used Kilmat.
Dome light. I have a 66 mustang. Hate there is no dome light. When I go to replace the headliner. I am going to add a dome light and feed the wiring down the A pillar. Can be wired into the courtesy lights. So door open and the dome light comes on. Consider this before you install a headliner. Can mount to the metal strip, even weld in a bracket.
That's a great call! Yeah I had that thought, but had no idea how to wire it in until now! Thanks! I may also try a one piece headliner, b/c for some strange reason I'm having the hardest time finding the headliner rods from anywhere online.
Fyi. You welded the seat belt bracket on upside down.
Yeah I realized that after, haha. Rookie mistake, I'm still learning. It will still work!
if not for youtube videos, is it worth it to do that much work to restore a mustang.....i saw a newly painted mustang that looks really good inside and out.....the guy said he paid $35k for it
You can't put a price on the joy it brings me to work on projects like this. Restoring my dream car is worth every penny to me. I paid $5,900 for the car and have spent about $1,500, on everything so far, so well under $35K to DIY haha.
@@VanHoutenBuilds there is a guy in my area here in LA who has a mustang like that. the car has dents all around and the guy can not have it fixed since he doesnt have exra money. i have a 99 camry in good conditon that i think he will accept if i will trade it with his mustang. the problem is i also dont have extra money to restore the mustang LOL
ALWAYS PUT PRIMER UNDER THE SEAMSEALER
Whoopsies! Thanks, I'll do that moving forward! Not too worried since it will be a SoCal garage kept car. Interesting that they didn't put primer down underneath the seam sealer from the factory.
@@VanHoutenBuilds yes Ive tryed it without primer underneath and it makes THE difference...same with filler..... BUT GREAT VIDEOS ! JUST KEEP THIS
@@marcelgeber643 Good to know! Thanks!
@@marcelgeber643 just about to start sealing floor on 65 FB what primer and then sealant paint do you suggest ? For inside and underneath 🙏 thanks
you use gasless mig ???????????????????????????????????
I realize that doesn't make sense haha. What I was referring to was Flux Core, which is similar to mig, minus the gas.
@@VanHoutenBuilds change the leads other way to std mig works better
@@pm270100 So I should change the leads on the Eastwood Mig 90? Just swap them? What will that do?
@@VanHoutenBuilds no spatter
@@pm270100 Good to know, thanks!
Dude your not supposed to butt weld floorpans! Super sketchy you gotta overlap and spot weld . You have no structural strength like that! This is really unsafe!
You can butt weld floor pans, you don't have to lap weld them. Yes, they are stronger when lapped, but it looks much cleaner with a butt weld. They are more structurally sound than they were before. There's still plenty of structural strength with the trans/axle tunnel, rocker panels, and roof. I'm also going to be adding in unibody frame connectors anyways to stiffen things up a bit. Thanks for checking out my videos! I'll try lap welding next time.