one thing to remember people, if you have a 7ft bed then get a filler tube exactly for a "your year" with 7 ft bed only, that will save you the trouble of having to modify it, cut parts off the old on and clamp it on etc... :-) I have read many comments at sites where people had to do that because they thought all were the same! This video i have watch 3 times!! You are a beast Bro!! thanks for the help!!
Thank you. I have to say that what makes this so valuable is your demeanor. "These bolts are a mess. A complete train wreck." and yet so laid-back, you're an inspiration to tackle these. I usually have to quit half-way through because I've run out of wrenches to throw into the woods... I'll try it your way. Say it, but stay in control. "You know it don't come easy."
I put a fuel pump in my '03 ranger last year. Yes, those bolts are quite a chore....I also found that my 1/2" impact had little effect on getting them out, had to use about 3 feet of breaker bar on a 1/2" breaker bar. I was scared that the torx bit was going to break or the bolts but they never did. Those bolts are just gnarly.
briansmobile1 Drop of oil on putting them back in would help when you have to undo them again to change the fuel pump. They will not come loose with lube.
I just did mine. Pretty straight forward. But, I found residue of blue locktite on the bed bolts. That's probably why they're so hard to get out. If you could heat them that might help. Also had the fun of getting my cross bed tool box and a factory bed liner out. Also before starting with removal I brushed the hose and pump and blew it off with my air compressor blow gun. Gets rid of all the trash on top of the tank.
Did the same thing to my '94 Mazda B4000. I replaced the fuel pump and sender assembly while in there. 218,000 miles, so figured it was due. Dude, I think I'd double up on the chairs and 2x4's before I stuck my head in there... My bed bolts were easy. It had always had a full bed liner and lived in a dry climate. (Utah)
Dude, you saved me so much time changing the filler hose. I did it by myself in about 45 minutes. The bedliner was harder to get out then the bolts. The trick with removing a bedliner is to pull up in the middle at the tailgate and it releases from the sides. I soaked the T55 bolts with PB blaster for 2 days prior to removal.
Thanks for this. Very helpful. I am *not* a big guy (not a guy at all) so I'm probably going to have to go find a big guy to help lift the bed but this video gives me confidence that I don't have to spend hundreds on labor at a mechanic to get the job done. With the exception of having chicken arms (it's a girl thing), I think I can manage most of this myself.
Thanks for the video! My Mazda B4000 has a camper on the top which proved too heavy to lift (at least that's what I'm claiming 8). In case anyone else run's into the same problem I was able to solve it with a 4 2x4's. One 4ft, one 2ft, on 1ft and one 8in. I removed the all the bed bolts and used the 4ft as a lever to lift the bed enough to slide the 2ft as far as i could resting on the ridges of the bed. I kept lifting until I got all three under then used the 4ft as a brace under one of the cross beams just as a safety. This didn't give me the clearance you had in the video but I had about 8 inches which was enough to sit on the ground with both hands under there and do the repair. The old one is a pain in the butt to get off. Putting the bed down was pretty easy but when I tried to put in the the bed had shifted. I was able to slide it back the half inch or so that it had shifted and all was well. The two bolt up closest to the cab are longer than the rest so pick those out of the bunch and the fuel throat has to line up a with the screws which meant I had to loosen the hose clamp and twist it around until it fit. At first I thought I had the wrong throat. Good luck all!
Replaced the filler hose on my '94 Ranger a few days ago using this method. Worked great. It was real handy to look at the length of your 2x4 relative to the side of the truck. I made two and with a little help from my son, propped the bed up safely and easily. Thank you!
Good video. For changing a fuel pump, on an old beater like that, I generally just cut a 8 inch square hole in the bed, over the gas tank, with a saws all or angle grinder. Only takes about ten minutes to do. Cut a piece of sheet metal and screw it on over the hole, with sealant to keep water from leaking onto your fuel tank. Did that on an old toyota and a mazda, saves a lot of time and work.
U r a genius!! Thank u so much!!. I amm soo tired of asking people for help and they dont want to help me lift the bed of the truck. I am officially subscribed.
Great video, I just VW TDI swapped my ranger. I was trying to just to see what the fuel pump looks like. Now I know exactly what I want to do regarding my return from the diesel pump on the engine. Thanks for the video. Great job !
I lifted the bed off the truck of my Ford Ranger when I had to repair a rusted brake line along the top of truck chassis. To get the bolts off, we tried an impact but like you, but the bolts were really rusted on. Instead of using a cheater bar, we have a torque multiplier which remove the bolts. We used the torque multiplier to remove the crankshaft bolt on a Toyota Sienna when we did a timing belt. The mechanic who we rented a stall and lift in his garage was amaze that we got the crankshaft bolt off so easily. He never heard of a torque multiplier.
Went to a Ford dealer today and asked about cost for doing this. I'm too old to do this. 1. Labor at $143/Hr. was told it could be a 3.5 Hr. job. Went to parts department and was told the filler pipe would cost $400. By the time I would get out the door I would spend $1,000 +. Found an independent mechanic who will do it for around $300 if I provide the part. That's what will happen. Cost to me is about $375. The part is on the way and the date and time is set for the work to be done. Reminded me of Eddie Arnold and his song, "Just a little loving will go along way". In this case just a little checking goes a long way.
Of all the videos I seen on how to do this, yours is the best. My 97 dumps fuel when it gets filled up. Now I need the weather to cooperate because I have to do this outside. Thanks.
thanks man, saved me a lot of trouble as i was gonna drop the tank. the thing has leaked on fill up since i bought but its so bad i have to fix it. hopefully its just the filler what I've always suspected it was anyway
After you wire brush the bed bolts, put some Anti-seize on them before reinstalling them back into the frame. Works wonders if you have to take it back apart in the future.
cool lift idea. doing my fuel pump myself and really needed and easy method since back in my day I was taught dropping gas tanks for fuel pump replacement lol great way to paint the frame and add clean custom to your truck bottom
ty, im bringing a 92 ford ranger back to life after setting for 10 years. couldn't get tank bolts to move but will try bed bolts so I can replace fuel pump. good video ty again
My 1997 is doing that.the filler neck is leaking gas when I feel all the way up.Some one told me is really common problem in Ford Rangers .so that's why I'm here looking a way to do it.thank you
Loved the video! My 2003 Mazda pickup has the exact same issue spilling fuel over the top of the tank. Thought it was fuel pump, but after watching this now I'm sure its the filler neck! Thanks
Thanks for the video. My son has a '94 Mazda B-4000 he got from his grandmother and grandfather. First time we filled it up it overflowed at the tank. I'm sure this must be the problem. I love the idea of tilting the bed.
I did that one. A couple things I did differently. I like to use petroleum jelly to lube tubing 'cos it doesn't mess with fuel at all and I anti-siezed the bed bolts when I put them back in. I'm glad I did 'cos the fuel pump just puked and I get to do it again.
I tried your tilt bed idea on my 2000 ranger. I had a leak in the filler spout. I found all I needed to do is replace a broken clamp. The front two bolts were rusted off. Twisted off the middle two. The back two needed to be persuaded with a cheater bar. Great idea.
Those T55 bolts can be a real bear but you can also cut the washer(release some of the tension from the bolt) On the Toyotas, they are always seized up and at least one washer gets FUBARed, lol. Yeah, the tilt bed method is the way to do it, so much easier. Ah, I almost forgot, get a thread chaser and chase those threads, that also helps with reinstallation. Cool video Brian
Brian, Great problem solving!! tilting bed is an excellent idea. I have owned 3 rangers and the last time I had to do that job I just took the whole bed off ... i had a chain hoist on an ibeam and i just lifted it up and slid it back. But I like your idea better!! :) I also watched your 5.3L intake manifold gasket video and did a 6.0L last night ... it went great except i followed your video too closely and left the sponges out !! :) so I had not quite finished so i took it all off again and put them in and the rest went smooth as silk. I have liked all of your videos i watched and I am subbed !! I wish you much success!!
Since you did all that work, did you notice if there was a check ball valve in the filler neck? Trying to figure out the best way to drain the gas out of a '98 Ranger right now, for some reason I can't get the siphon hose in all the way...could be just getting hung up on a bend and need a larger hose to use as a casing, but it'd be nice to know what I'm up against beforehand, obviously
I have reinstalled many a rusted to hell bolt in my day. Aside from wire brushing and perhaps running a thread chaser up and down the threads, put some smooth soft set teflon pipe dope on the threads and a dab into the female side, and those bolts will reinstall with far less stress, and can be removed down the road if need be much easier.
Thanks for the video , just a little scary with the 2x4 & Bed , (8-O giant mouse trap. Going to try it , but Im going to Lock in the 2x4s somehow . Thumbs UP.
Brian, I read an article about Hot Rod magazine looking for new talent and I thought of you. Heres part of the article... Specifically, they want a host with knowledge of domestic muscle-car-era cars and trucks as well as some late models. You’ll need to understand how to do the work, have experience with a variety of aftermarket parts, and if you’ve got driving skills that’s not a bad thing either. You’ll be fixing up the cars, testing them on the track, and presenting on Hot Rod Garage so the person selected has got to have some serious skills. All you have to do to be in the running is make a 1-2 minute video to introduce yourself and show that you can do the work. Upload that to your own RUclips channel and then share a link in their video below. I doubt your close enough location wise, but I know I would watch!
Nice video but you made a critical mistake (I think). Most of those Chinese Filler necks are not correctly flared nor are they made with NYLON REINFORCED walls and will fail in a few years, usually by cracking at the tank end due to lack of flare and poor rubber. I have found this out the hard way. The lack of flare is why you struggled with the tank end. The taped on piece of metal is a dead giveaway. Read the article at FillerNeckSupply.com for more info.
A little dab of Permatex Anti-Seize on each of the bed bolts before re-installing would save you any headaches the next time you go to remove the bolts.
looks like a great idea. the only concern i have is how sturdy is it? i would be afraid to have the whole bed fall on top of me. what i did is just move the bad back ablut 2 feet to get clearance.
How big a boy are ya? I tried with all my might to get it up on the 2x4’s and I couldn’t! I’m 6’3” 275 lbs. lol. Any tips for getting it tilted if you can’t do it manually?
I had the same problem with my 95 Ranger. Don't know why I didn't see this last year. I took the bed completely off. Not that bad. But putting it back, I broke a gas line. While I was in there, I put a new fuel pump in because the sending unit was not working. I will try this method if I ever have to do that again.
I managed to take out the tank without removing the bed. The hard part is removing the filler neck from the tank and reconnecting it. The hose clamp can be reached from under the cab with a socket extension. Then the filler neck can be gripped with your left hand with the weight of the tank pulling down while twisting and pulling the neck upward.
You'll have to remove the tank straps and let it fall a few inches using a floor jack to be able to see and reach the filler neck hose clamp with a socket on about an 8" extension.
I have to replace the fuel tank on my grandmother's '94 ranger. After hunting and hunting for a video that showed a similar fuel tank I found your video. Thank goodness I did. My question is would you still remove the bed if you were going to pull the tank on it?
+sixteenstone007 theres one harness plug underneath the rear that disconnects all the wiring so you can take the bed off or lift it back for more room. unbolt filler , take screws/bolts off the bed and disconnect the rear harness and the whole beds disconnected. im going to put some different bolts in the bed instead of them pain in the ass screws with clips. its good to be able to get at everything under the bed. 2 guys can lift it off easily.
Thank you, saved me a lot of headache, I may have to raise the bed on my 96, having issues with the gas gauge, it's showing empty all the time, I've already tried the slosh thing in the dash, but it still doesn't register anything, any other ideas as what it may be other than the sending unit it's self??
Question for any one . Is there any fill flap valve on the filler neck or at fuel tank entrance. could these break off and restrict fuel flow when you get gas .
I had a 93 ranger I put a new fuel pump on it. I took the bed off. I just unplugged the tail lights. my wife helped me lift it off. Not that heavy really. Next time I do the tilt so I dont have to get my wife to help me.I got a 99 now I liked the 93 suspension better. The 99 rides rough as a lumber wagon. I see why I cannot siphon gas out of it now.
got lucky with my 2001 super cab lol has a wooden flatbed and i have enough space to reach sall of that (just did the evap canister vent valve solenoid with now tools sitting up comfortably behind the drivers side rear tire (charcoal canister is over the spare tire holder)
The gas leak on my 88 Ranger is on the lower portion of the fuel pump seal. Is it possible to replace by tilting the bed like u did in this video?? What tool to remove Assy. ???
Dude, good information. But you sprayed silicone spray on everything but the bed bolts you were fighting back in ? And does the snap on guy have that chair lift in black ? The oak color won't match my shop decor. Lol Thanks, that was fun
briansmobile1 More than likely the pale nut or "J" nut on the frame the box bolt goes into is what kills the impact as opposed to the length of the box bolt. Impacts are about as handy as tits on a trout when you start using them on bolts froze in rubber bushings, box bolts and such.
I wish i seen this video before i watched all the other ones. Good video. Im definitely lifting the box now instead of sliding it back. ( I am not hearing all that great at the moment due to the impact gun)lol. Ipact did not help much with my hearing or removing the bolts.
OK, I've done 10 of these. Rule 1 the inner hose needs to be pull out of the outer cracked hose. The reason why cus you will not get fuel into your tank it will kink and you will be at the gas pump for 25 mins. The inner hose is that way so it won't kink
My first car was an 88. I now own 3, and just converted the fourth into a trailer due to an engine fire. I do have to say, I've always felt like I'm going much faster than I really am in the 80's Rangers, don't have a clue as to why.
Brian. Every time we fill up our 2003 Honda Odyssey we get a bad gas smell inside the van. Does that sound like a filler tube to you? Any thoughts are appreciated.
I had to replace the license plate’s light bulb, I saw a spark, now my ranger 01 won’t start any more, I have checked all the fuses and relays and they are all fine. Do you think the fuel pump could be the problem?
I just tried to tilt the bad like that, can't get it that high so I think I'll just pull the bed back over the wheels, don't know how you got the front so high.
I have a 2002 Mazda B2300 4cyl with a rough idle problem changed the throttle sensor, the map sensor, spark plugs, wires as well and the coil.... runs great on the top end but just runs rough in idle... :-( had to ship in the throttle sensor in it took a week or so, the truck ran really bad transmisson kept slaming into gear 1st and 2nd.... got any ideas?????....
I have 96 ranger and the same thing happened to filler neck. I had a mechanic replace it and I think he grossly overcharged me. I wish I saw this video before before I had a mechanic replace it.
one thing to remember people, if you have a 7ft bed then get a filler tube exactly for a "your year" with 7 ft bed only, that will save you the trouble of having to modify it, cut parts off the old on and clamp it on etc... :-) I have read many comments at sites where people had to do that because they thought all were the same! This video i have watch 3 times!! You are a beast Bro!! thanks for the help!!
stinman46 right, I checked his link and it was for 6 foot bed. I have the 7 foot bed.
Thank you. I have to say that what makes this so valuable is your demeanor. "These bolts are a mess. A complete train wreck." and yet so laid-back, you're an inspiration to tackle these. I usually have to quit half-way through because I've run out of wrenches to throw into the woods... I'll try it your way. Say it, but stay in control. "You know it don't come easy."
"days of zipties" love it ! I need to check my sensor and was about to take the whole bed off, but your method is BOSS. Thank you man!!
I put a fuel pump in my '03 ranger last year. Yes, those bolts are quite a chore....I also found that my 1/2" impact had little effect on getting them out, had to use about 3 feet of breaker bar on a 1/2" breaker bar. I was scared that the torx bit was going to break or the bolts but they never did. Those bolts are just gnarly.
Me too! If it was anything smaller than T50 it would have twisted off.
briansmobile1 Drop of oil on putting them back in would help when you have to undo them again to change the fuel pump. They will not come loose with lube.
I used penetrant for a week before I did the job and my bed came off like nothing with a 3/8 ratchet.
I’m 70 years old, did my friends 95 Ranger, with your video I was able to save him $300. By doing it your way. Thanks
I just did mine. Pretty straight forward. But, I found residue of blue locktite on the bed bolts. That's probably why they're so hard to get out. If you could heat them that might help. Also had the fun of getting my cross bed tool box and a factory bed liner out. Also before starting with removal I brushed the hose and pump and blew it off with my air compressor blow gun. Gets rid of all the trash on top of the tank.
Did the same thing to my '94 Mazda B4000. I replaced the fuel pump and sender assembly while in there. 218,000 miles, so figured it was due. Dude, I think I'd double up on the chairs and 2x4's before I stuck my head in there... My bed bolts were easy. It had always had a full bed liner and lived in a dry climate. (Utah)
Dude, you saved me so much time changing the filler hose. I did it by myself in about 45 minutes. The bedliner was harder to get out then the bolts. The trick with removing a bedliner is to pull up in the middle at the tailgate and it releases from the sides. I soaked the T55 bolts with PB blaster for 2 days prior to removal.
Thanks for this. Very helpful. I am *not* a big guy (not a guy at all) so I'm probably going to have to go find a big guy to help lift the bed but this video gives me confidence that I don't have to spend hundreds on labor at a mechanic to get the job done. With the exception of having chicken arms (it's a girl thing), I think I can manage most of this myself.
Thanks for the video!
My Mazda B4000 has a camper on the top which proved too heavy to lift (at least that's what I'm claiming 8). In case anyone else run's into the same problem I was able to solve it with a 4 2x4's. One 4ft, one 2ft, on 1ft and one 8in. I removed the all the bed bolts and used the 4ft as a lever to lift the bed enough to slide the 2ft as far as i could resting on the ridges of the bed. I kept lifting until I got all three under then used the 4ft as a brace under one of the cross beams just as a safety.
This didn't give me the clearance you had in the video but I had about 8 inches which was enough to sit on the ground with both hands under there and do the repair. The old one is a pain in the butt to get off. Putting the bed down was pretty easy but when I tried to put in the the bed had shifted. I was able to slide it back the half inch or so that it had shifted and all was well.
The two bolt up closest to the cab are longer than the rest so pick those out of the bunch and the fuel throat has to line up a with the screws which meant I had to loosen the hose clamp and twist it around until it fit. At first I thought I had the wrong throat.
Good luck all!
Replaced the filler hose on my '94 Ranger a few days ago using this method. Worked great. It was real handy to look at the length of your 2x4 relative to the side of the truck. I made two and with a little help from my son, propped the bed up safely and easily. Thank you!
Did you have to drain the tank to do this
@@patrickharvey158 Its been a while but I don't believe that I had to. The hose connects to the top of the tank.
Good video. For changing a fuel pump, on an old beater like that, I generally just cut a 8 inch square hole in the bed, over the gas tank, with a saws all or angle grinder. Only takes about ten minutes to do. Cut a piece of sheet metal and screw it on over the hole, with sealant to keep water from leaking onto your fuel tank. Did that on an old toyota and a mazda, saves a lot of time and work.
Thanks fer thinkin outside the box! Us injured, old Geezers need all the helps WE can muster!
U r a genius!! Thank u so much!!. I amm soo tired of asking people for help and they dont want to help me lift the bed of the truck. I am officially subscribed.
Leo Lanuza You're welcome Leo!
I am shocked you did not put some anti-sieze on the mounting bolts when you replaced them. Great vid!
Great video, I just VW TDI swapped my ranger. I was trying to just to see what the fuel pump looks like. Now I know exactly what I want to do regarding my return from the diesel pump on the engine. Thanks for the video. Great job !
That was my first ride too. Feeling a little nostalgia. *tears forming in eyes*
I lifted the bed off the truck of my Ford Ranger when I had to repair a rusted brake line along the top of truck chassis. To get the bolts off, we tried an impact but like you, but the bolts were really rusted on. Instead of using a cheater bar, we have a torque multiplier which remove the bolts. We used the torque multiplier to remove the crankshaft bolt on a Toyota Sienna when we did a timing belt. The mechanic who we rented a stall and lift in his garage was amaze that we got the crankshaft bolt off so easily. He never heard of a torque multiplier.
Went to a Ford dealer today and asked about cost for doing this. I'm too old to do this. 1. Labor at $143/Hr. was told it could be a 3.5 Hr. job. Went to parts department and was told the filler pipe would cost $400. By the time I would get out the door I would spend $1,000 +. Found an independent mechanic who will do it for around $300 if I provide the part. That's what will happen. Cost to me is about $375. The part is on the way and the date and time is set for the work to be done. Reminded me of Eddie Arnold and his song, "Just a little loving will go along way". In this case just a little checking goes a long way.
Great idea to lift the bed. i used this method to change the fuel pump on my 99 Ranger. Saved me a ton of time and hassle.
Thanks so much for this video. I have to do this fix and was bummed by the apparent process ahead of me. This simplifies things so much.
Of all the videos I seen on how to do this, yours is the best. My 97 dumps fuel when it gets filled up. Now I need the weather to cooperate because I have to do this outside. Thanks.
thanks man, saved me a lot of trouble as i was gonna drop the tank. the thing has leaked on fill up since i bought but its so bad i have to fix it. hopefully its just the filler what I've always suspected it was anyway
After you wire brush the bed bolts, put some Anti-seize on them before reinstalling them back into the frame. Works wonders if you have to take it back apart in the future.
Thank you so much for sharing! I used your suggestion to get access to successfully replace the fuel pump on my 2004 Ranger.
I liked your approach tilting the bed.
cool lift idea. doing my fuel pump myself and really needed and easy method since back in my day I was taught dropping gas tanks for fuel pump replacement lol great way to paint the frame and add clean custom to your truck bottom
Totally was thinking the same thing about the sand worm monster, and then the eyes! Lol, nice touch.
ty, im bringing a 92 ford ranger back to life after setting for 10 years. couldn't get tank bolts to move but will try bed bolts so I can replace fuel pump. good video ty again
You're welcome and best of luck!
Todd Benson same here, except my 19 Ranger has been sitting for about 15. What do you recommend to do to get it started up?
This worked perfectly. Had to buy size 55 torx socket and blaster spray. Wife helped raise bed with no problems. Easy access to pump and hoses.
My 1997 is doing that.the filler neck is leaking gas when I feel all the way up.Some one told me is really common problem in Ford Rangers .so that's why I'm here looking a way to do it.thank you
+edgar bowen Welcome Edgar! Thanks for clicking subscribe and like!
haha Actually I was subscribe long time ago.great videos thank you for doing it
Loved the video! My 2003 Mazda pickup has the exact same issue spilling fuel over the top of the tank. Thought it was fuel pump, but after watching this now I'm sure its the filler neck! Thanks
I was wondering why you didn't put on blaster on the bolts before putting then back in ?
Thanks for the video. My son has a '94 Mazda B-4000 he got from his grandmother and grandfather. First time we filled it up it overflowed at the tank. I'm sure this must be the problem. I love the idea of tilting the bed.
I did that one. A couple things I did differently. I like to use petroleum jelly to lube tubing 'cos it doesn't mess with fuel at all and I anti-siezed the bed bolts when I put them back in. I'm glad I did 'cos the fuel pump just puked and I get to do it again.
I tried your tilt bed idea on my 2000 ranger. I had a leak in the filler spout. I found all I needed to do is replace a broken clamp. The front two bolts were rusted off. Twisted off the middle two. The back two needed to be persuaded with a cheater bar. Great idea.
Those T55 bolts can be a real bear but you can also cut the washer(release some of the tension from the bolt) On the Toyotas, they are always seized up and at least one washer gets FUBARed, lol. Yeah, the tilt bed method is the way to do it, so much easier. Ah, I almost forgot, get a thread chaser and chase those threads, that also helps with reinstallation. Cool video Brian
Awesome. If you have time, soak the bolts overnight in 50/50 vinegar & water solution. The rust will come off.
Brian, Great problem solving!! tilting bed is an excellent idea. I have owned 3 rangers and the last time I had to do that job I just took the whole bed off ... i had a chain hoist on an ibeam and i just lifted it up and slid it back. But I like your idea better!! :) I also watched your 5.3L intake manifold gasket video and did a 6.0L last night ... it went great except i followed your video too closely and left the sponges out !! :) so I had not quite finished so i took it all off again and put them in and the rest went smooth as silk. I have liked all of your videos i watched and I am subbed !! I wish you much success!!
Thanks. This video is exactly what I needed to see. I’ll be doing my hose and fuel pump in the morning. Might even wash it afterward!
Thanks so much for this video. I so not wanted to have to drop the tank without a lift. This makes the fuel pump job so much easier! Thanks again..
wow, fantastic video. Informative and detailed. Makes this look a lot less scary than I expected. Thank you
Excellent work, well explained also serves to change the gas pump
Since you did all that work, did you notice if there was a check ball valve in the filler neck? Trying to figure out the best way to drain the gas out of a '98 Ranger right now, for some reason I can't get the siphon hose in all the way...could be just getting hung up on a bend and need a larger hose to use as a casing, but it'd be nice to know what I'm up against beforehand, obviously
Nice special effects at the end sir! Nice video, well done.
I have reinstalled many a rusted to hell bolt in my day. Aside from wire brushing and perhaps running a thread chaser up and down the threads, put some smooth soft set teflon pipe dope on the threads and a dab into the female side, and those bolts will reinstall with far less stress, and can be removed down the road if need be much easier.
Thanks for the video , just a little scary with the 2x4 & Bed , (8-O giant mouse trap. Going to try it , but
Im going to Lock in the 2x4s somehow . Thumbs UP.
Brian, I read an article about Hot Rod magazine looking for new talent and I thought of you. Heres part of the article... Specifically, they want a host with knowledge of domestic muscle-car-era cars and trucks as well as some late models. You’ll need to understand how to do the work, have experience with a variety of aftermarket parts, and if you’ve got driving skills that’s not a bad thing either.
You’ll be fixing up the cars, testing them on the track, and presenting on Hot Rod Garage so the person selected has got to have some serious skills. All you have to do to be in the running is make a 1-2 minute video to introduce yourself and show that you can do the work. Upload that to your own RUclips channel and then share a link in their video below. I doubt your close enough location wise, but I know I would watch!
Nice video but you made a critical mistake (I think). Most of those Chinese Filler necks are not correctly flared nor are they made with NYLON REINFORCED walls and will fail in a few years, usually by cracking at the tank end due to lack of flare and poor rubber. I have found this out the hard way. The lack of flare is why you struggled with the tank end. The taped on piece of metal is a dead giveaway. Read the article at FillerNeckSupply.com for more info.
Alway enjoy Brian, thanks for taking time to video.
Great video. Firestone wants $410 bucks for the part alone! No way! I can do this.
Wire wheel on your bench grinder to clean the bolt threads.
Then some anti seize on the threads will make this job and the next time proceed smoothly.
OMG I’m laughing harder than I should. It’s a peach.... a cherry!!! Great video brother.
Was that a disco ball I saw hanging from the garage ceiling? That's awesome!
A little dab of Permatex Anti-Seize on each of the bed bolts before re-installing would save you any headaches the next time you go to remove the bolts.
Does anyone know the length of the 2x4 he used to prop up the bed?
This is EXACTLY what I needed to know. Thanks!
you should chase the threads on the bolts and captive nuts, i love my thread chaser set
Great video! This is so helpful, thank you.
looks like a great idea. the only concern i have is how sturdy is it? i would be afraid to have the whole bed fall on top of me. what i did is just move the bad back ablut 2 feet to get clearance.
How big a boy are ya? I tried with all my might to get it up on the 2x4’s and I couldn’t! I’m 6’3” 275 lbs. lol. Any tips for getting it tilted if you can’t do it manually?
I had the same problem with my 95 Ranger. Don't know why I didn't see this last year. I took the bed completely off. Not that bad. But putting it back, I broke a gas line. While I was in there, I put a new fuel pump in because the sending unit was not working. I will try this method if I ever have to do that again.
I managed to take out the tank without removing the bed. The hard part is removing the filler neck from the tank and reconnecting it. The hose clamp can be reached from under the cab with a socket extension. Then the filler neck can be gripped with your left hand with the weight of the tank pulling down while twisting and pulling the neck upward.
You'll have to remove the tank straps and let it fall a few inches using a floor jack to be able to see and reach the filler neck hose clamp with a socket on about an 8" extension.
Good tip. I am amassed those T55s did not strip out! No copper grease on the threads! Hope you do not have to do it again in a few years time!
Great job, thanks for this video!
Thanks Brian! I hope Ford brings back the Ranger to the USA I need a newer smaller truck my F150 is showing its age.
Seems like they're just gonna let Nissan take that market.
I have to replace the fuel tank on my grandmother's '94 ranger. After hunting and hunting for a video that showed a similar fuel tank I found your video. Thank goodness I did. My question is would you still remove the bed if you were going to pull the tank on it?
he'll yeah , nice bro, this will save me a ton of time and work, well done.
Will this method work on a 93 2wd Ford Ranger? I need to replace the fuel pump and this looks easier than dropping the tank. Please reply
sixteenstone007 It will.
+sixteenstone007 theres one harness plug underneath the rear that disconnects all the wiring so you can take the bed off or lift it back for more room. unbolt filler , take screws/bolts off the bed and disconnect the rear harness and the whole beds disconnected. im going to put some different bolts in the bed instead of them pain in the ass screws with clips. its good to be able to get at everything under the bed. 2 guys can lift it off easily.
I sure could have used this method when I replaced a cross member. really helpful
You do great videos.
you're a good man charlie brown... for the charity work.
i just did one on my 97 ranger, there is only one plug in the back that you need to unplug then you can slide the bed back for more room.
Great video Brian
Thank you, saved me a lot of headache, I may have to raise the bed on my 96, having issues with the gas gauge, it's showing empty all the time, I've already tried the slosh thing in the dash, but it still doesn't register anything, any other ideas as what it may be other than the sending unit it's self??
Question for any one . Is there any fill flap valve on the filler neck or at fuel tank entrance. could these break off and restrict fuel flow when you get gas .
I had a 93 ranger I put a new fuel pump on it. I took the bed off. I just unplugged the tail lights. my wife helped me lift it off. Not that heavy really. Next time I do the tilt so I dont have to get my wife to help me.I got a 99 now I liked the 93 suspension better. The 99 rides rough as a lumber wagon. I see why I cannot siphon gas out of it now.
got lucky with my 2001 super cab lol has a wooden flatbed and i have enough space to reach sall of that (just did the evap canister vent valve solenoid with now tools sitting up comfortably behind the drivers side rear tire (charcoal canister is over the spare tire holder)
The gas leak on my 88 Ranger is on the lower portion of the fuel pump seal. Is it possible to replace by tilting the bed like u did in this video?? What tool to remove Assy. ???
Dude, good information. But you sprayed silicone spray on everything but the bed bolts you were fighting back in ?
And does the snap on guy have that chair lift in black ? The oak color won't match my shop decor. Lol
Thanks, that was fun
Hahahahah! Nice.
Love it! I love all your tips!
Why not lubricate the bed bolts before you replace them?
those bolts are so long that impact gun impact gets absorbed by the flex of those long bolts.
Like a GM IFS torsion bar. =D
briansmobile1 More than likely the pale nut or "J" nut on the frame the box bolt goes into is what kills the impact as opposed to the length of the box bolt. Impacts are about as handy as tits on a trout when you start using them on bolts froze in rubber bushings, box bolts and such.
Look you got a dump truck now :P
Great video thanks for posting
Do you need to drain the tank to do this?
I wish i seen this video before i watched all the other ones. Good video. Im definitely lifting the box now instead of sliding it back. ( I am not hearing all that great at the moment due to the impact gun)lol. Ipact did not help much with my hearing or removing the bolts.
Dude your so Awesome, I gotta do an 89 for a friend
Good video. Some anti-seize on the bed bolts wouldn't hurt.
OK, I've done 10 of these. Rule 1 the inner hose needs to be pull out of the outer cracked hose. The reason why cus you will not get fuel into your tank it will kink and you will be at the gas pump for 25 mins. The inner hose is that way so it won't kink
My first car was an 88. I now own 3, and just converted the fourth into a trailer due to an engine fire. I do have to say, I've always felt like I'm going much faster than I really am in the 80's Rangers, don't have a clue as to why.
Brian. Every time we fill up our 2003 Honda Odyssey we get a bad gas smell inside the van. Does that sound like a filler tube to you? Any thoughts are appreciated.
I had to replace the license plate’s light bulb, I saw a spark, now my ranger 01 won’t start any more, I have checked all the fuses and relays and they are all fine. Do you think the fuel pump could be the problem?
Kroil oil is the secret to pain free easy bolt loosening,or removal...
Great vid Brian
Thanks for the great vid. Hope to try it soon.
I just tried to tilt the bad like that, can't get it that high so I think I'll just pull the bed back over the wheels, don't know how you got the front so high.
Detach the filler neck hoses and have only the back two bolts in just 3-4 threads.
Has anyone got the same problem after replacing the filler neck when using a cheap filler neck, my Mazda b2300 won’t fill up properly.
I've heard about that happeing. Best thing to do is double check your install for kinks, twists and internal issues of kinking the breather inside.
I have a 2002 Mazda B2300 4cyl with a rough idle problem changed the throttle sensor, the map sensor, spark plugs, wires as well and the coil.... runs great on the top end but just runs rough in idle... :-( had to ship in the throttle sensor in it took a week or so, the truck ran really bad transmisson kept slaming into gear 1st and 2nd.... got any ideas?????....
What length did you cut the 2x4?
Measure to the top of a chair!
I have 96 ranger and the same thing happened to filler neck. I had a mechanic replace it and I think he grossly overcharged me. I wish I saw this video before before I had a mechanic replace it.