2004-2015 Nissan Titan Front Hub Bearing Replacement (W/ Brakes!)
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- What's up everybody!
This is a DIY how-to on replacing the front hub bearings on a 2004-2015 1st Gen. Nissan Titan. Replacing the front brakes are also outlined in the video. Torque Specs included.
ADDITIONAL INFO REGARDING VIDEO:
The hub bearing torque specs slightly varied throughout the years. Below is each years torque specs as per the Nissan FSM:
2004-2008 = 155 Ft. Lbs.
2009-2015 = 107 Ft. Lbs.
*DISCLAIMER: I am NOT a Master Tech, just a long time wrencher.
Truck in video is a 2009 Nissan Titan LE.
MUSIC:
Iso Indies-Deuce (Instrumental Version)
* NOTE, ADDITIONAL INSIGHT REGARDING VIDEO:
If you’re struggling to remove the hub with some light taps and/or the hub doesn’t want to come out or budge, use a Slide Hammer.
If you’re cheap and don’t want to buy one like me, you can always rent the OEM Tools Slide Hammer from Autozone for free:
www.autozone.com/hammers/hammer/p/oemtools-5lb-slide-hammer/2047_0_0
…if the hub bearing is extremely bad and bearing is very loose, the slide hammer probably won’t work because it will just pull the hub out of the mount. But if the bearing is still basically fully intact, you can utilize a slide hammer if you’re having trouble.
Your method of making the press was so much better than other ways. I'm a certified boat mechanic and most of my big tools are at work so I was limited on options. I was able to do it finished in 5 1/5 hrs!
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Love the bolt idea! Mine came off after a bunch of cussing and your bolt trick. It was not budging at all.
Glad to hear you got it man 👍👍
Great video. Very clear and easy to follow. RUclips needs more videos like this. Going to be doing this on my armada. My bearings are screaming!
I truly appreciate your comment 🙏
I replaced 1 on a 2013 armada last summer, tomorrow I’m replacing the one on the other side. WD40 helps
* NOTE, ADDITIONAL INFO REGARDING VIDEO:
The hub bearing torque specs slightly varied throughout the years. Below is each years torque specs as per the Nissan FSM:
2004-2008 = 155 Ft. Lbs.
2009-2015 = 107 Ft. Lbs.
Thank you sir! Your hub removal techinque worked perfectly for me. I did put a small metal shim in front of the dust shield and that helped if from getting too deformed when I drove the bolt against it.
Nice! Glad it helped! 🤙
I have to do this project next week, great video!
I appreciate it 🙏
Your tutorial rocks!
Appreciate it!! 🙏🙏🙏
@@TheOriginalBeeCee I just had to order a bearing because mine just started to wobble and be noisy. Hopefully it makes it till friday
Yea man, i would try to stay off of it as much as possible! When they go bad they progress QUICK!
Good video demonstration.
Thank you.
Appreciate the comment 🙏
Man! This is so smart! Thanks
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U R tha MAN! Excellent video! Made repairs simply
I appreciate the comment! 🙏🙏
This may be because of a year model difference, but my three wheel hub bolts are supposed to be torqued to 145 ft lbs
Not sure where you got 145 ft. Lbs., but you are on to something. According to Nissan’s FSM, the 04-08 was 155 Ft. Lbs. for the 3 bolts, and 09-15 was 107 ft. Lbs. This was an ‘09 in the video, hence the 107 ft. Lbs. So there were two different specs for the first & second part of the generation:
www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Titan%2F2004%2Ffax.pdf
www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Titan%2F2015%2Ffax.pdf
…so like you said that is because of a year model difference, so I’m actually going to pin a comment notating the correct spec for the two year spans 🤙
Can you use a hub puller? Snapped those bolts earlier on one side trying to get it off
Are you referring to the bolts I suggested using? Is that what you snapped? And I’m honestly not sure if a hub puller will work. I’m familiar with the OEMTOOLS 27037, and although I should, I don’t personally own it. But that puller is mainly designed for smaller FWD hubs on cars. Pretty sure you can rent it from Autozone. If you decide to try it out, let me know how it goes!
@@TheOriginalBeeCee yeah the 1/2 bolts snapped trying to use it as a puller thing was on there😂, luckily the other side came off easily
I add a small amount of antisieze to the axle shaft my old jeep yj was a some of a bitch to get apart next time it will be easier
I hear that! Whatever works 🤙
Did you have to lock it in 4wheel to get the axle nut off?
I can’t recall, but I don’t think so.
Where did you get the torque specs from? Thanks for the video.
Straight from Nissan FSM, hence the reason for the screenshots of the blow-out diagrams.
@@TheOriginalBeeCee Thanks for the video man. How much power impact torque break away does your impact give? I ask because I bought 1 at harbor freight with a 1000ft lbs. I hope there won't be needing for me to buy any torch device to loosen bolts and nuts.
@@chriscruz1106 this is just a battery powered impact, so nothing crazy...I believe its like 600 pounds. And torches still have their place regardless of how strong your impact is. In fact, in my opinion in a lot of cases I think they’re better used with a torch. Especially with troubled bolts. Impacts can be to strong sometimes and it can snap a head right off if you’re not careful. Heating the bolt/nut up before removal gives the impact the best chance of being successful. That being said you definitely don’t have to heat up everything you’re impacting, but impacts should definitely be used with discretion and sometimes heating up whenever your removing beforehand will give it the best chance of a successful removal.
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@@TheOriginalBeeCee hi can u tell me which impact gun u used ? Can I have the link ? Thanks
Bro. Too much heat lol. And dust plate is a heat shield. I was cringing watching you beat the brakes off of it. (No pun intended). I like your bolt idea, except I wouldn’t use it to push it off using it the way you did. Instead, an auto body “knocker” 5 lb knocker would do the trick. And- WD40 and a few mins for that to soak it comes right off. Too risky damaging a customers CV axle splines and other components beating it like that. Overall, I like the ingenuity, and have a few takeaways from you, thanks! Hopefully I provided you and others with useful insight as well
Too much heat? Not even a little bit. Used a low propane torch...Not like i was using a acetylene torch and glowing it up red. That’s why you use a propane torch like that, because it just doesn’t have the capacity/capability to get extremely hot. Honestly, no component I heated probably got hotter than it would on a 1-2 hour ride in traffic on a hot summer day. Low scale heat with things like this is your best friend. Keep in mind the parts being dealt with in the job are designed to endure some heat. And of course, this should go un-said, but i guess needs to be said....obviously the heat needs to be used in moderation and kept away from anything it can potentially damage. Keep the torch moving, and just induce a little heat, will work perfectly with no issues every time.
And not sure what you were cringing at, please provide the time stamp. Wasn’t out here Babe Ruth’ing it, lol. Sturdy taps from the front to break up rust, light taps from the back to get it out. Of course you can damage something with hammers, obviously...if you miss and hit the axle of course, or something else, and I don’t have the best aim lol. But i wasn’t hitting it hard at all...maybe its hard to tell from the video. But this truck is plagued with rust by the way, Pittsburgh vehicle with corrosion to help make every job that much more fun. And if you think mildly using a hammer to break up rust on a hub removal is “cringy”, you might faint walking into a shop in the NorthEast. I’ve seen people Sammy Sosa hubs off with big ass sledgehammer’s successfully. I do like your auto body “knocker” suggestion. Whatever works, definitely more than one way to do it successfully. But I can ensure you everything I did in this video was done in moderation, and no Titan or Titan parts were harmed in the making of this video 🤙