I've just dug that item out for you and the tiniest engine I've ever seen actually started after a couple of turns ,I haven't put any batteries in it yet but there shouldn't anything wrong with it . I hope you will be happy with it as I thought due to it's tiny 1/16 size your daughter might be able to share it with you and call it her first nitro RC anyway I'll stop waffling and I'll attempt to send you a picture !
I think a lot of people recommend the idle to be set .75-1.0mm is because it’s the ideal smallest amount to have the slide set at. And you just tune the LS needle to adjust the idle, HS to adjust the 1/3-full throttle range. To me it’s much easier to set the idle .75-1.0mm and just deal with the HS and LS screws
If you've ever set cable derailleur gears on a bike, you'll know how to do this. The tickover screw is the equivalent to the limit screw. It's the mechanical end point that stops your chain falling off, or your engine stalling. The low speed screw is the equivalent to the B screw. Dictates how much tension there is on the chain in all gears, or how much fuel is allowed into the engine. You have to set the servos (shifter levers) and cable stops (slider stops) to a neutral position before you faff with the derailleur. Same is true here.
Thank you for getting back to me Much appreciated, I replaced the glow plug once I broke it in, I might have a look just to make sure thanks. If it’s too rich do I turn the low needle antic clockwise or the other way or is it the top needle, I never have time to put my body shell on as it cuts out
Haggard you definitely spot on. Every rc car servo tray is set up spaced out differently. I also think the engine manufacture recommendation throttle gap is a bit off. Probably they tested bench the engine the set up with out the chassis.
I have a red cat volcano s30. When I first started it it just would spin the wheels like crazy. I tried to do this but it wouldn’t work because when I adjusted the throttle trim I had no breaks and the gap was still huge. Screw with the pushy thing is in its normal spot but it still won’t close the hole. I messed with the screw and the throttle trim but the hole still won’t close and I know that’s the only issue I’m having right now. WANT TO CLOSE THE HOLE
I run a cut piece of fuel hosing on the brake rod it acts kind of like the hydraulics do on your 1/1 car and I've found that I have much better braking by doing that it seems to have a little more control on the brakes.great video
Hi just watched your video found it useful and helpful, engines are like learning Japanese to me and struggle. A question my FTX banzai nitro car starts fine, when I pull the glow starter out the car cuts out after a few seconds why? Another thing I don’t have time to put the body shell on because it cuts out. When it is started and I pull the accelerator it cuts out why? Thanks
Would you be interested in being given a 1/16 scale kyosho inferno with the original truggy shell it will come with everything if you are interested for free ?
Hello haggard, I’ve got a nitro car but the ball that attaches the throttle ,linkage to the carbeurator keeps on popping of the linkage. Do you know how to attach it? It’s a hip firestorm 10t 3.0
Hi bro how it going so I just bought myself a first nitro car ftx torro trophy but having some issues with the throttle servo when I installed the fela safe to the channel 2 and press the break in its all now instead. Put one problem I'm having is the throttle and brake servo keeps jittering why this because if I turn it on it keeps doing it bud just need help to stop this from happening bud. If you went I can show a few videos to your Facebook if you send the link to me thanks 😊
@@HaggardRC thanks for getting back to me I sorted it now my fly sky gt3b ready have failsafe built in which I did not know that 😀. So the failsafe which I bought was a waste of money now 🤔 With the throttle servo it's only jittering a bit now and I done the gab 1mn between the carb and break so it doesn't stall when you break bud thanks 👍
Dude u video is very good u come across so well and give good detailed directions and for that reason "I'm in" lol sub'd u bro 😉👊 I'm in to big basher and I've just been gifted a 1/10 nitro so I'm a noonday again lol
Yes haggard. Good video m8. I have a question that goes like this....how do you know if your nitro engine is blown? Is it possible for an engine to break without a visual sign.
@@HaggardRC cool, thank you for taking the time to reply. Iv just been rippin my tt eb4 s2 21R. Blisteringly fast. What's your thoughts on bp coolers to?
From what iv read the proper one are suppose to spin the air going to the tank cooling it in the process, but the ones iv seen are not spiraled inside at all. I think there's a lot of fakes on the market hence maybe that's why you think that?
Hi. I am a nervy to the rc game , I f--ked up , I messed with the needle settings on my god buggy 1/10 warhead, can you show how to put them back to factory settings as the manual says to close them both , up completely the back off 1.5 turns on the high side and 1.14 turns on the low idle is this true. I hope that you can sort this out , as every one days that the needles need to be flush.
Ahh is this what was happening to me was my low speed so so so rich and my idle gap was to big so much so my high speed had to be set way to lean to slow the block to lean enough to run semi properly. I see now the idle gap and the low needle are always in sink with each other. Yes the 1 mm gap is good for starting because it’s a rich take off Makes sence From now on I will shut the idle then open it 3/4 of a turn via closed the throttle screw Start and tune the high speed From there and it will be a breeze to tune. The gap at 1 mm and trying to tune the high speed just does not allow the engine to wake up properly. Meaning erratic high speed and idling becomes erratic and unstable 1 good year and it finally is coming together. Without all these vids I’d be lost lol.
@@HaggardRC Ohhh boy it sure did. Where I live seems to run the engines really really hot at stock settings so the low needle needs to be closed a bit and leaned so the rich high end is not to lean at normal settings. This is the hard start I’ve been having And no I did not want to blow motors daily die to my own need to get my channel back with cars to use. I do not get free stuff and have a small collection of cars so I have to be good to them or I won’t have them very long running I do so much appreciate the help more then gold bro more then gold 🤘😎 🙇♂️thank you Sir hope the best of days for ya always. 👍😊
This method will work but it’s not the best. The best method is to set the TX trim to neutral, then set your manual linkages (with a gap before throttle is actuated) then finally set your end points. And never ever touch throttle trim again
Great video! New to Nitro and this was amazingly helpful.
Great video again, not had chance to take a look at my truck yet, but just been watching to learn more about nitro fuel engines etc
I've just dug that item out for you and the tiniest engine I've ever seen actually started after a couple of turns ,I haven't put any batteries in it yet but there shouldn't anything wrong with it .
I hope you will be happy with it as I thought due to it's tiny 1/16 size your daughter might be able to share it with you and call it her first nitro RC anyway I'll stop waffling and I'll attempt to send you a picture !
I think a lot of people recommend the idle to be set .75-1.0mm is because it’s the ideal smallest amount to have the slide set at. And you just tune the LS needle to adjust the idle, HS to adjust the 1/3-full throttle range.
To me it’s much easier to set the idle .75-1.0mm and just deal with the HS and LS screws
If you've ever set cable derailleur gears on a bike, you'll know how to do this.
The tickover screw is the equivalent to the limit screw. It's the mechanical end point that stops your chain falling off, or your engine stalling.
The low speed screw is the equivalent to the B screw. Dictates how much tension there is on the chain in all gears, or how much fuel is allowed into the engine.
You have to set the servos (shifter levers) and cable stops (slider stops) to a neutral position before you faff with the derailleur. Same is true here.
You give me the motivation to play with my Nitro
Thank you for your videos you helped me understand an learn loads today great video
No worries dude
and your video is saved. thank you for a straight up how to and no bullshit (usa)
Holy hell I’ve been lookin for this videos for months now!! Thanks mate
How comes you’ve been looking for this video lol
@@HaggardRC you the nitro man ha ha ha.great video haggard.love them alot it sure has help me in the nitro game✌
Thank you for getting back to me
Much appreciated, I replaced the glow plug once I broke it in, I might have a look just to make sure thanks. If it’s too rich do I turn the low needle antic clockwise or the other way or is it the top needle, I never have time to put my body shell on as it cuts out
Try the high speed first, clockwise a gnats’ cock.
Looking for.stiffer springs for my.revo 3.3 has factory one but put new shock with black spring still has to much sag what do you recommend
Great video sir
Haggard you definitely spot on. Every rc car servo tray is set up spaced out differently. I also think the engine manufacture recommendation throttle gap is a bit off. Probably they tested bench the engine the set up with out the chassis.
Absolutely nice one for the video been trying trying to work out how to sort the throttle and trim out and this video nailed it thanks
Very helpful video, thank you once again and merry Christmas
I have a red cat volcano s30.
When I first started it it just would spin the wheels like crazy. I tried to do this but it wouldn’t work because when I adjusted the throttle trim I had no breaks and the gap was still huge. Screw with the pushy thing is in its normal spot but it still won’t close the hole.
I messed with the screw and the throttle trim but the hole still won’t close and I know that’s the only issue I’m having right now.
WANT TO CLOSE THE HOLE
I run a cut piece of fuel hosing on the brake rod it acts kind of like the hydraulics do on your 1/1 car and I've found that I have much better braking by doing that it seems to have a little more control on the brakes.great video
Another cracking video and I hope you are happy and dandy yourself as you deserve to be !
I'm fantastic dude :)
Hi got buggey but try get engine running got running but no throatl is it Todo with the servo trim or little carburettor screw
Hi just watched your video found it useful and helpful, engines are like learning Japanese to me and struggle. A question my FTX banzai nitro car starts fine, when I pull the glow starter out the car cuts out after a few seconds why? Another thing I don’t have time to put the body shell on because it cuts out. When it is started and I pull the accelerator it cuts out why?
Thanks
Sounds like it’s either too rich or your glow plug is on its way out.
Random question the hsp warhead nitro car is it a hit or miss for my 1st nitro.
Would you be interested in being given a 1/16 scale kyosho inferno with the original truggy shell it will come with everything if you are interested for free ?
Thanks for the video.
Hi mate I have a carnage nt and the throttle keeps working on and off,any suggestions on what the problem is?
Thanks
Can you give more details please?
@HaggardRC it works then stops then worked again,sometimes when I press the throttle nothing happens
Hello haggard, I’ve got a nitro car but the ball that attaches the throttle ,linkage to the carbeurator keeps on popping of the linkage. Do you know how to attach it? It’s a hip firestorm 10t 3.0
It’s probably worn, get a new one 🤘🏻
Hi bro how it going so I just bought myself a first nitro car ftx torro trophy but having some issues with the throttle servo when I installed the fela safe to the channel 2 and press the break in its all now instead. Put one problem I'm having is the throttle and brake servo keeps jittering why this because if I turn it on it keeps doing it bud just need help to stop this from happening bud. If you went I can show a few videos to your Facebook if you send the link to me thanks 😊
I don’t have Facebook but if a servo is jittering it usually means either interference or a bad connection
@@HaggardRC thanks for getting back to me I sorted it now my fly sky gt3b ready have failsafe built in which I did not know that 😀.
So the failsafe which I bought was a waste of money now 🤔
With the throttle servo it's only jittering a bit now and I done the gab 1mn between the carb and break so it doesn't stall when you break bud thanks 👍
Dude u video is very good u come across so well and give good detailed directions and for that reason "I'm in" lol sub'd u bro 😉👊 I'm in to big basher and I've just been gifted a 1/10 nitro so I'm a noonday again lol
Thanks and welcome hah
Yes haggard. Good video m8. I have a question that goes like this....how do you know if your nitro engine is blown? Is it possible for an engine to break without a visual sign.
Yeah it is it’ll have knocking sounds when you turn it over or low compression :)
@@HaggardRC cool, thank you for taking the time to reply. Iv just been rippin my tt eb4 s2 21R. Blisteringly fast. What's your thoughts on bp coolers to?
Useless and not needed lol
From what iv read the proper one are suppose to spin the air going to the tank cooling it in the process, but the ones iv seen are not spiraled inside at all. I think there's a lot of fakes on the market hence maybe that's why you think that?
That intro 😂🤣
Wen my we fellas car frottle seems to be sticking any idears will stop wen brake is applied tho
Probably the throttle trim isn’t set properly 👍🏻
Hi, I’ve lost the idle screw, can I still start it and drive it? Thanx
Haha yeah but it obviously won’t idle
What’s up with a nitro engine wanting to stick throttle?
Hi. I am a nervy to the rc game , I f--ked up , I messed with the needle settings on my god buggy 1/10 warhead, can you show how to put them back to factory settings as the manual says to close them both , up completely the back off 1.5 turns on the high side and 1.14 turns on the low idle is this true. I hope that you can sort this out , as every one days that the needles need to be flush.
Suggestion zoom the camera in closer
Look at engines like LEGOS ! they're all the same too no matter the size! you can always use your knowledge from one engine to the next !
nice one ;)
Ahh is this what was happening to me was my low speed so so so rich and my idle gap was to big so much so my high speed had to be set way to lean to slow the block to lean enough to run semi properly.
I see now the idle gap and the low needle are always in sink with each other.
Yes the 1 mm gap is good for starting because it’s a rich take off
Makes sence
From now on I will shut the idle then open it 3/4 of a turn via closed the throttle screw
Start and tune the high speed From there and it will be a breeze to tune.
The gap at 1 mm and trying to tune the high speed just does not allow the engine to wake up properly. Meaning erratic high speed and idling becomes erratic and unstable
1 good year and it finally is coming together.
Without all these vids I’d be lost lol.
Glad it helped dude 😁
@@HaggardRC
Ohhh boy it sure did. Where I live seems to run the engines really really hot at stock settings so the low needle needs to be closed a bit and leaned so the rich high end is not to lean at normal settings.
This is the hard start I’ve been having
And no I did not want to blow motors daily die to my own need to get my channel back with cars to use.
I do not get free stuff and have a small collection of cars so I have to be good to them or I won’t have them very long running
I do so much appreciate the help more then gold bro more then gold 🤘😎
🙇♂️thank you Sir hope the best of days for ya always. 👍😊
Which was your first RC car ?
Savage 21 :)
You need a light of some sort or Size to show those close ups
Too right
Is there a way I can send you a video of my ftx carnage Problem? Facebook/whatsapp
Through Instagram dude
Hi pal u still doing rc nitro videos
This method will work but it’s not the best. The best method is to set the TX trim to neutral, then set your manual linkages (with a gap before throttle is actuated) then finally set your end points. And never ever touch throttle trim again
Sorry I forgot to say great video. Very informative.
Can you do a video of stripping down a nitro rc engine start to finish and putting back together
I can one day lol
be good to see actually 👍🏻 con rod and piston out.. and explain to the newbies how it all works 👍🏻
Can you say i got a jar of dirt in your next video you sound like johnny hahaha
BRO WHY YOU TALKING LIKE KEV .... ?
Haha you funny fucker 😂