I've had a bunch of high mileage 302s apart that still had the cross hatches and the bearings showed no copper. Once apart, you get a pretty good idea of the life the engine had. Pull it apart, inspect, clean, and reassemble... Only replace what it needs. I've seen a ton of toss cheap rebuilds poop the bed do to shoddy rebuilds.
I found a 331 short block for $3100, there was a few cheaper options, but mine was built for boost with forged bottom end, I started just like the white GT found it was leaking from everywhere
The stock 5.0 short block is actually pretty decent. Really, a stroker motor in turbo applications are kind of a waste of money if it's stock block, because in both cases the block itself is the weak point. The stock internals will probably out live the block if you start pushing it. Good head gaskets, fasteners, and heads is where to spend the money.
Fair enough… I have 3k in a stock explorer gt40 engine….it was low mileage, approx 65,000 miles, refresh with all new brgs & gaskets timing chain, arp bolts oil pump water pump etc…. $$$ Racks up quick, new valve springs - had heads worked, valve job.. piston rings…and it’s a slow process just like you stated
The bottom ends on these things are bulletproof and usually don't need rebuilding. Holley Systemax or TFS top end if it's still a thing. Best bang for the buck and even comes with gaskets. if the engine is completely gone explorer gt40 motor with an alphabet cam. just my 2 cents.
I've torn down hundreds of engines, ive worked in engine shops on and off for years. I've seen so called crate engines warranted or not, be .040, .060 over all bores sleeved and still .040 over, cranks welded up , cranks .020, .030 undersized. Here's a better idea. While your mustang is still running and driving, go to junk yard get a engine of choice. Avoid a crate engine if possible. Tear it apart, take it to a engine shop get the work done get the pistons, cam, heads and intake you want build it yourself or have the shop assembled it. It will be as cheap as a crate engine, you will know what you have, and you will come out better in the long run. You just got to think in advance, engine building should not be a fly by night experience. And do not tear apart your mustang until you have a rebuild engine ready to go in its place, and with the old engine you have another you can process the same way, if you have more that one mustang this makes life so much better. Can it get any eaiser?
Please check your "crate motor" specs, (ring gap, bearing clearance, PTVC... etc. I know it's easy to be trusting in others to do it correct, but they may not be taking care of you as you indicate. Seen a few crate motors go bad after a few hundred miles. Good luck Sir.
You’re supposed to go to the junkyard snatch a 351w roller cam block then find a explorer with the gt40 heads drill the head bolt holes out for the bigger head bolt size build it buy an intake manifold carb it can it and send it or last swap it 🤣😂
Don't forget.... A 351W is not a direct bolt in.. 80s-90s Ws most have LOW compression, and the 87 on have E7 heads the same as 5.0 GTs. Explorer heads are a flow upgrade but not compression. Remember you'll be feeding 15% more cubes, 352, with the "302" Explorer heads, and the fuelie system stuff and accessories won't fit. Have fun.
Is that a good 302 block or is it different I’m definitely curious it does look nice it’s always good to put a good engine in such a nice car and put some new life into it make a good daily driver out of it and take it to a good Mustang car show or any car show I can’t wait to see that beautiful Mustang on the road again
It all depends if you want 50 or 100k engine. I've done 2 HOs with 110k and 140k miles and everything mic'd out standard. Things to consider. They usually reuse cam and lifters, that's ok. Cheap timing chains will be 2.5* slack in 5,000 miles. Even the cheapest Cloyes get slack soon. JME. Don't cheap out here. Never use a dingle ball hone. Buy good rings. Use the more expensive gaskets and rubber pan gasket or you'll be redoing stuff. JMO, JME
Fordstroker is a much better option then a Ford crate motor. it's cheaper. Hand build and comes with Dart Block. Dart 363 with cam and timing chain is around 6k.
Is this also something you would recommend for a “restoration” project? My goal with my Foxbody is to make it the most reliable it will ever be. I haven’t done much to it, but I don’t want it made to make power, I was it to be reliable and not break on me. I want it to be stock as possible but will do what I need to be reliable
I have a notch that's been sitting 12 years. It has 175K on the stock engine. She was a runner as a daily driver. I chose to try and rebuild her and restore. I keep going from pushrod to Coyote. Anyway, I tried to contact Autozone, they don't have a time frame to be able to get another long block? What is another place to purchase a standard rebuild long block?
I've had a bunch of high mileage 302s apart that still had the cross hatches and the bearings showed no copper. Once apart, you get a pretty good idea of the life the engine had. Pull it apart, inspect, clean, and reassemble... Only replace what it needs. I've seen a ton of toss cheap rebuilds poop the bed do to shoddy rebuilds.
One of the best options, especially for most who aren't equipped to do the full rebuild plus like you said a time saver option. Nice content guys.
I found a 331 short block for $3100, there was a few cheaper options, but mine was built for boost with forged bottom end, I started just like the white GT found it was leaking from everywhere
The stock 5.0 short block is actually pretty decent. Really, a stroker motor in turbo applications are kind of a waste of money if it's stock block, because in both cases the block itself is the weak point. The stock internals will probably out live the block if you start pushing it. Good head gaskets, fasteners, and heads is where to spend the money.
It's just a V1 S-trim, not a turbo
Fair enough… I have 3k in a stock explorer gt40 engine….it was low mileage, approx 65,000 miles, refresh with all new brgs & gaskets timing chain, arp bolts oil pump water pump etc…. $$$ Racks up quick, new valve springs - had heads worked, valve job.. piston rings…and it’s a slow process just like you stated
The bottom ends on these things are bulletproof and usually don't need rebuilding. Holley Systemax or TFS top end if it's still a thing. Best bang for the buck and even comes with gaskets. if the engine is completely gone explorer gt40 motor with an alphabet cam. just my 2 cents.
I've torn down hundreds of engines, ive worked in engine shops on and off for years. I've seen so called crate engines warranted or not, be .040, .060 over all bores sleeved and still .040 over, cranks welded up , cranks .020, .030 undersized.
Here's a better idea. While your mustang is still running and driving, go to junk yard get a engine of choice. Avoid a crate engine if possible. Tear it apart, take it to a engine shop get the work done get the pistons, cam, heads and intake you want build it yourself or have the shop assembled it. It will be as cheap as a crate engine, you will know what you have, and you will come out better in the long run. You just got to think in advance, engine building should not be a fly by night experience. And do not tear apart your mustang until you have a rebuild engine ready to go in its place, and with the old engine you have another you can process the same way, if you have more that one mustang this makes life so much better. Can it get any eaiser?
Please check your "crate motor" specs, (ring gap, bearing clearance, PTVC... etc. I know it's easy to be trusting in others to do it correct, but they may not be taking care of you as you indicate. Seen a few crate motors go bad after a few hundred miles. Good luck Sir.
You’re supposed to go to the junkyard snatch a 351w roller cam block then find a explorer with the gt40 heads drill the head bolt holes out for the bigger head bolt size build it buy an intake manifold carb it can it and send it or last swap it 🤣😂
Well you can do that lol
Don't forget.... A 351W is not a direct bolt in.. 80s-90s Ws most have LOW compression, and the 87 on have E7 heads the same as 5.0 GTs. Explorer heads are a flow upgrade but not compression. Remember you'll be feeding 15% more cubes, 352, with the "302" Explorer heads, and the fuelie system stuff and accessories won't fit.
Have fun.
Come up to Massachusetts and buy mine lol the towers are rust free and the frame is in really good condition for a car in Massachusetts
Is that a good 302 block or is it different I’m definitely curious it does look nice it’s always good to put a good engine in such a nice car and put some new life into it make a good daily driver out of it and take it to a good Mustang car show or any car show I can’t wait to see that beautiful Mustang on the road again
Great advice Brother! Thank you... I appreciate you!
It all depends if you want 50 or 100k engine.
I've done 2 HOs with 110k and 140k miles and everything mic'd out standard.
Things to consider.
They usually reuse cam and lifters, that's ok. Cheap timing chains will be 2.5* slack in 5,000 miles. Even the cheapest Cloyes get slack soon. JME. Don't cheap out here.
Never use a dingle ball hone. Buy good rings.
Use the more expensive gaskets and rubber pan gasket or you'll be redoing stuff.
JMO, JME
This may be perfect for me! I have a 86 GT that’s been sitting for 14yrs with 142k on the clock..
Definitely a good option
The video showed autozone believe it or not
@SaltyStang he said AutoZone, etc.
Good luck 😳
What does YYY and XXX mean on those engine blocks and is there a difference?
Not what I've found.
can any Mustang gurus recommend the best place to purchase a crate motor like this?
Considering a long block. Already found a set of heads just need the block and internals.
Fordstroker is a much better option then a Ford crate motor. it's cheaper. Hand build and comes with Dart Block. Dart 363 with cam and timing chain is around 6k.
So if I’m throwing in a b cam in a block that is stock but want to beef it up, would I have to degree the b cam or could I just install it
That’s good advice
Always trying to help out
My 2.3l was kinda like that wish I had a 5.0 tho calypso hatch lx
Is this also something you would recommend for a “restoration” project? My goal with my Foxbody is to make it the most reliable it will ever be. I haven’t done much to it, but I don’t want it made to make power, I was it to be reliable and not break on me. I want it to be stock as possible but will do what I need to be reliable
That's what he did with TwoTone
Is the answer " Coyote" swap??
my engines tired not broken
I have a notch that's been sitting 12 years. It has 175K on the stock engine. She was a runner as a daily driver. I chose to try and rebuild her and restore. I keep going from pushrod to Coyote. Anyway, I tried to contact Autozone, they don't have a time frame to be able to get another long block? What is another place to purchase a standard rebuild long block?
if you're in cali i know where you can get what you want built
I appreciate it. I live in Florida.
Ls swap it