Just a thought on the drain plug extra magnet. You should check it against the polarity of the tip magnet so that they are not opposing each other, so that the north or south fields are both pointing in the same direction. My Toyota Tundra transmission has rare earth magnets in the transmission drain pan that get cleaned when i change the filter, they are just held in place with their own magnetism. You could place a large rare earth magnet on the outside of your oil drain pan and check it when you check your oil pump screen, or pull it off right before you drain your oil.
I fill my side mounted filters a tad bit. The filter soaks up the majority and doesn’t spill when I put it on. Little is better than nothing in my opinion.
What he's doing actually makes sense. Using good oil. Adding an oil additive that works and installing a magnetized drain plug. What do you do for your engine?
Great video .Great video I have always used brand name oils. Delo,shell, mobil , and lots of others. Ran a construction company with cat, hitachi detroit engines. Started back in the early seventies, had dozens of old and new pieces of machinery also fords , chevies and dodge pickups. Never used magnets or oil additives and never had engine premature wear. Back in the early seventies oil was a single grade . 10 weight 20 weight and 30 for the summer. Did the recommended change intervals . I'm in my mid seventies now and the message you are sending is wrong . This is my opinion based on experience . The most critical reason cars , trucks or any piece of equipment that had gas or diesel engines gave any trouble was operator abuse, not the lack of additives to the oil. Good oil, regular fuel and air filters , also changed the coolant when needed.
My 2002 S10 has a side mount filter too..what I do is put just enough oil in the new filter to coat the inside without spilling out while installing it...👍
Those oil additives that coat you engine internals are also coating (and clogging) the filter and pick-up screen. We learned that back in the 90s with the whole Slick 50 craze. In a lot of cases manufacturers declined warranty repair if it was found they had been used.
You can prefill those horizontal filters, just don't completely fill them. Fill them a bit, let the media soak up the oil, then add a bit more. I do this on my motorcycle and the low oil pressure light goes out immediately compared to putting a dry filter on and having to wait a few seconds for oil pressure to build.
That was my invention with the magnets on the oil filter. I should have patented that when I turn 18, I was 15 and just seeing all these magnets that were in the trash from speakers, back in the day the bolt was magnetic but I said why not at the filter? They did stop the magnets from some factory bolts. I would also use one on my Transmission pan, great video brought back some great videos. The answer to oil in the filter even sideways , you should buy a pre luber, once you turn the key it takes the oil from the bottom of the oil pan and it lubes the motor before you start. Another great idea to keep that engine living longer, a inline oil cooler, to keep the engine oil cooler.
My 99 Chevy Silverado used to kick hard into 2nd gear when it was hot. I checked the transmission fluid level and saw it was a few quarts overfull. (I bought it used and it evidently came that way from the dealership I bought it from. I never added any fluid to it). I siphoned 2 1/2 quarts out of the transmission to get it back into the operating range and after that, the hard shift stopped. It's a smooth transition into each gear now.
I have a side mount oil filter, I always fill it right up and let sit for at least 30 minutes, then I hold filter horizontal pouring excess oil into oil drum while very slowly rotating. Then install it immediately with old oil already fully drained and drain plug also already torqued to spec.
I use AMSOIL and never have any metal on my magnets and never need to use additive and an oil change last me a few years to boot! that WIX-XP is a top notch filter better than the filter you replaced it with.
On the matter of priming the filter, look at it. If there is an anti flow back valve, fill it. Even if it mounts upside down, you won't lose it all. The idea,is to minimize the effect of a dry start.
I always buy the magnetic drain plugs for my vehicles. When it comes to oil in the filter, I do it no matter the direction. If you pour some in there, the filter will absorb it.
If you’re using a premium full synthetic oil you DON’T NEED any additional additives. Also…you CAN pre fill (or mostly fill) a horizontal filter if you’re quick to spin it on. .. I do it all the time and don’t loose any oil.(maybe loose a tiny bit sometimes)
In colder temps try to find a motorcraft filter that will fit or a filter with a silicone drain back valve, Hastings filters use rubber and can cause a cold start tick after 100 miles or more, silicone drain back is critical ē in temperatures lower than 50 degrees
Just about every oil filter that's currently available has a Silicone Anti-Drainback Valve -- but somehow, the importance of that silicone valve was ignored -- in favor of saving a few pennies on an Oil Filter that is NOT readily available. Why people bother to test cheap, hard-to-find filters escapes me -- and experienced mechanics and racers KNOW that oil additives are an expensive waste of money.
The oil will not pour out "completely" with a horizontal filter. Some stays between the media and the can, held in by the anti drain back valve. Some is better than just air.
If you read your owner's manual, you'll see that the manufacturer does not recommend any oil additives but does recommend a good quality oil, like Mobil 1 or any other quality full synthetic oil as long as it is the listed viscosity. That should be all that your engine needs, although I would use Mobil 1 in the extended performance formula even though I don't agree with extending the oil drain interval above the manufacturer's recommendation. Back in the '70s when synthetic auto oil first came out, there were many of these miracle oil additives for sale. The first 2 synthetic oils for sale to the public were Mobil 1 and Amsoil. A co-worker of mine bought a brand new Oldsmobile Toronado when they first came out. Another coworker was also an Amsoil dealer and he sold the new Toronado owner some Amsoil for his first oil change. The Amsoil dealer also sold many other company's additives. There was one additive that guaranteed to make your engine run better because it contained small particles of Teflon in it. The guy did his first oil change with the Amsoil and also fell for the benefits of the Teflon additive. He added the additive and drove his new car for a while. After a couple of months, his new Toronado engine started making clicking engine noises. He took it to the dealer service dept. under warranty. They found all his oil return holes clogged with the Teflon particles causing oil starvation. The oil additive advertised that the Teflon particles were small and would not affect engine operation in any way. They had to flush his entire 2-month-old engine to get rid of all the Teflon particles. This additive almost caused irreversible engine damage to his new car engine but he caught it early enough. This is why I will never use an oil additive but will use a high-quality full synthetic oil, instead. DO YOU FEEL LUCKY?
I would use this in an open differential, but not limited slip. it may keep it from being able to improve traction. In a manual transmission, it could over-lubricate the synchronizers, making shifting difficult. I wouldn't dare use this in an automatic transmission, for the reason you mention. I can't even guess if it may cause slippage of the push belt or pull chain in either type of mechanical continuously variable transmission. (CVT). I would use it in an electronic continuously variable transmission (eCVT) because they don't rely on friction to transfer torque. They use two electric motors, and a single planetary gear set. The gear ratios are controlled with high powered electronic variable frequency drives, somewhat similar to a modern diesel/electric train locomotive.
I'm a subscriber to "Project Farm" and advise folks to check his channel out. He goes to amazing lengths to prove and disprove the claims of a variety of mechanical and automotive products as well as some that may be more considered as consumer products. As for "Hastings", they've been an automotive parts and additive manufacturer since the beginning of automotive time. After seeing that rare earth magnet and the fact that it has completely magnetized the drain plug, I have an issue that you may have now magnetized an area of the pan around the plug which makes the ability to remove those ferrous deposits next to impossible. In my opinion, the original magnet that's on the end of that drain plug is entirely sufficient for it's intended use.
I live in Oregon and it rains a lot.I use Mobil 1 also and had no sludge or build up in my engine. I started using Motorkote about 60k ago . I kept getting a bunch of Tan whipped cream looking crap on my oil cap , checked my antifreeze level everytime I drove , No cracked block or head gasket ...checked cap, had same thing on underside of oil cap. Shook it off and wiped again.I thought it was moisture in my oil which made it foam. I went through this crap off and on for months. Changed my oil after 1500 cuz it happened again. I then had a hunch it might be the motorkote. I went deep in the net for info on motorkote.....I found out it works great on taxis and big rigs , because they run constantly , they burn all moisture away. Its the motorkote that makes it foam, found out from several sources, not just a couple. changed my oil 4x in 10000 miles. Its been rainy now for 3 months. And what do you know. NO MORE SLUDGE BUILD UP OR FOAM...And the build up I got from this is finally starting to go away. I shine a flash light down the hole where the oil cap is and can see the whole inside front ,timing chain and pulley shaft area.... . That shit will ruin your engine. Do some major research , another thing, it produces chlorinated paraffins , which makes your oil acidic , and start corroding parts in the engine.I live way out in the country and when I do drive, Its at least 20 miles on the engine before I shut it off , Plenty of time to heat up to optimal operating temp. But the foam doesn't flow anymore to cycle through the engine to evaporate the existing moisture....Bottom line is it sucks unless constantly running. If you don't take my word for it , Do 15 minutes on google on Motorkote and see for yourself.
Still getting the tan whipped cream from the motorkote, but not as bad.Its gonna keep happening for awhile because motorkote stays in your engine for a long time. It bonds itself to the metals inside the engine , Ill come back after the next oil change and update.Prob a couple weeks.....
And they say the Earth's Molten core is magnetic.. LOL What a Crock of BS. It's not even round let alone has a molten core. Proof right there they Lie to you about the core.
Good idea for the drain plug magnet, but any metal pieces caught by the threads on the plug will be scraped off by the oil pan threads when you remove the plug, unless that tiny magnet at the tip catches them...
Put always additive in your engine, IF the additive are ATP AT-205 Re-Seal and/or RVS Engine Restore. You only need to add them to ONE oil change tho, since the effects last MANY oil changes. 100 000 km in the case of RVS.
I use motorkote, too, but always add slightly oil less to allow for the additive so I don't overfill. BTW: The MPG in my 2000 Hyundai went from about 34 to 41 MPG. That alone pays for the MotorKote.
A good way to prime your oil system is to pull your fuel fuse or ignition control connections then turn the motor over for 10 seconds and repeat for another 10 seconds. This is more important to do with turbocharged vehicles due to all the extra piping!
That's the worst advice ever! A car will build oil 10x faster starting it less turns compared to a dead slow crank that requires a few extra turns to build up oil pressure.
I flush my engine with Motor Medic at every oil change which keeps the 5.3 tick from appearing. Moreover, Rislone will completely eliminate your lifter tick in just a matter of minutes. The difference in NVH is stark!
Remember a product called Slick 50? It was all the rage back in the day, now motor oil has plenty of added chemicals so no additives are needed. I respect Project Farm as well, but Scotty Kilmer says don't waste your money, so I don't.
Only two of these kind I’ve ever used was Lucas and Seafoam… I recommend seafoam to literally everyone, Lucas Stabilizer if you’re worn out and need a few thousand more miles 😂
And you know… HOW??? Are you an engineer or just a YT browser? Show me your documented data or else go away. Our patented Oil Filter Magnet technology won Top Product of the year by Motor magazine. It was also tested by Hurguth laboratories, Titan, laboratories, AC Delco laboratoriesand a dozen others over the years. So where were your tests done ???
I used to use a telescoping mechanic's magnet to sweep the bottom surface of my oil pan through the oil drain hole when I changed my oil. It was surprising how much ferrous metal I was able to pick up doing that. I would also tape some of those button magnets along the bottom of the oil pan if it's not made of a ferrous metal. Prefilling an oil filter, whether in a horizontal or vertical orientation, is a good idea. Just saturating the filter media with oil will lessen the time it needs to develop oil pressure when you do the first startup. I would further recommend that you disable the ignition or fuel pump and crank the engine over slowly immediately after the oil change until oil pressure builds up in the system, usually a few seconds. What you don't want is what I sometimes hear at service shops where they do none of this stuff and the engine's valve train clatters for 10 to 15 seconds after an oil change.
Motorkote is some good stuff! Your transmission sounds like it has varnish build-up.... transx is an excellent additive for your problem. In most cases it will fix a sticky Transmission in only one or two blocks of driving.
Keep on making these videos, Jimmy. Always entertaining and informative. I have a 05 AVALANCHE with a 5.3. It always helps to see some try out something first.
I appreciate the videos. I have a 2003 Yukon XL w/ 230K miles and going strong. I also love Project Farm and I am curious to see how this additive works for you.
Instead of adding a rare earth magnet to your drain plug, u should place it on the oil filter, therefore removing any ferrous material when you change the filter.
Let me see if I. Got this right . Your engine takes 6 quarts of oil and you put 6 quarts in then add Motokote now you've over filled the oil pan . Not good ! Adding friction to an automatic transmission proably will void the transmission warranty
Hastings filters are a solid Commercial grade filter for tractor trailer originally so you can bet they will hold up to 5-10-w-30 , they can filter 15-40 for 30,000 miles plus, and the membrane is thicker than a puralator or a fram, Use with confidence, 30 yrs exp.
I sincerely appreciate your pushing the idea of Magnetic Drain Plugs, EVERY engine should have one because no filter can capture the dangerous and damaging particulate under about 20 microns. Why is that a problem? Well, testing has proven that 75% or more of an engines normal wear is caused by metallic particles that are under 8 microns, ones that are NEVER caught in the filter. Note: The magnetic drain plug you have looks like an OE on some Chevys but may be a Dorman or Help from a local auto parts store. I am sorry to say that these plugs are not anywhere near the power you need to catch all particles, they can barely hold their own weight (2 ounces) when upside down. What you need is one of our Extreme high-power NEO plugs, they can easily lift 3 pounds or more and do not degrade with heat as the cheap ones do. You also eliminate the need of sticking a second magnet on the hex end of the plug, a real pain in the neck Here are a few clarifications you need to add to your script, they are important and critical. 1. Only about 5% of all vehicles come with Magnetic Drain Plugs, so you need to deliberately add one in most cases. 2. You always need to put oil into a new filter, even those that mount sideways. Dry paper is a problem for the oil pump so just put in less on the ones that are turned, it will be absorbed and not run out. (Remember to also coat the o-ring seal with oil.) 3. NEVER put magnets on the outside of an oil filter, they must go inside! Briefly: You are capturing large particulate BEFORE it is captured by the paper media and this is a problem. You leave this heavy and rough metal all around the inside of the "can", an area that is tight and designed to have the LOWEST coefficient of friction. What you want to capture are particles that will go through that paper and back into the engine, the ones that do 75% of the damage. (Please see the extensive details on the tech at our website... www.OilFilterMagnets.com and www.OilDrainPlug.com ) Please take a look at all the technology we have developed and placed on our websites, you will find many resources and products that are designed to extend the life of your vehicle. Regards, Gary the partsman www.GWRauto.com
You need to read our tech report on Filter Mag, you will be surprised. Plus you can save a lot of money if you do the right way... check out the technology at this site.... www.OilFilterMagnets.com
i get magnets at the hardware store for size to stick on the bottom of the oil pan and around the oil filter,also change oil filter twice for every oil change,its cheaper than oil
That's what I was thinking based on what he showed. The polarities are cancelling out the original mag at the tip It looks like it has zero magnetization after he adds the button.
It was good to see the material collected on the magnet. I use magnets. The magnets collect different amounts of metal depending on the car its in. Even a 2021 vehicle had some material on the magnet.
The ticking is your fuel injectors, normal. Some of the lifters in the LS motors tick as well which is normal. You are probably feeling the firm down shift into second. That is actually a good sign that your trans is healthy and not slipping. Also it will be more pronounced in a 4wd vehicle with a transfer case. I would not add the motorkote to the trans as it may mess up the paper material in the clutch pack. I only use lubeguard red in my 4l60 E.
Ahh the great 4l60e where you replace the clutch bands 2-4 times over the life of your vehicle. I love chevys but I'm not a huge fan of the 4l60e's. My s10 has had the 3 4 clutch packs changed twice with just 117,000 miles on the engine.
@@kickazz9473 i got 198000 on my 4l60e, never been into it other than a basic filter change roughly every 30,000 ish miles, and its a 2000 silverado with 4.8l
@@ericeaton371 I won't deny that many don't have problems. My problem is not unique to me. There are forums all over the internet about the 4l60e. For those who've had no problems that's great.
the ticking is CSK. COLD START KNOCK. piston slap to be more precise. after the pistons warm up they grow slightly and the slap goes away.you can use a top end carbon cleaner and it may get rid of your CSK. OUR 2003 gmc 5.3 truck never did it and had 140k. i recommend using lucas upper cylinder lubricant every time you fill up.
Bad idea megnatizing the bolt. Metal on the threads as you remove it= dickered threads. That's why the magnet it smaller in diameter. Use a longer magnet if possible.
Agree. Just use the latest version of the recommended fluid. -- I've got a friend who used to work for HydraMatic. He says the fluid is not necessarily bad when it turns brown, but is is if it smells burned. So I did changed at 45K (when I bought) and 75K. He thinks the fluid will be good to 175K, watching its appearance/smell. THM4L80E
I used to use old speaker magnets on my race car engines! took some epoxy, cleaned the paint off on the side of the pan, the magnets stick, epoxy made them stay where i put them. on a dirt car, the pan sticks close to the track, not much clearance, so stuckem on the side of the steel pans. worked well, all the parts that fell into the oil was on that side of the pan.
If you use rare earth magnets you must protect them from oxydation. The fact they look shinny doesn't mean they are stainless steel and they will in fact oxyde pretty fast releasing toxic oxydes and loosing a lot of theyre magnetic properties. Any paint, glue... will help !
Even my horizontal oil filters. fill them up once and the filter material will suck up almost all the oil. little or no oil is left loose to spill out.
The magnetic drain plug is not supposed to catch all the metal particules. It's only supposed to catch some of them to let you know that they are present in the oil.
I work for Jiffy Lube I take Drain plugs out of cars everyday, from old to new, from Honda to Jaguar. The only cars that get magnet tipped drain plugs are Chevy Silverados/ GMC Sierras 1500 models only. Magnets don't help as much as you think it does that's what the oil filter is for as long as you change your oil on time the engine will be a lot cleaner.
Great Video 1 Road, Here is a tip you can try with that ticking or clicking sound. I have used Mobil 1 Since it first came on the market and my Vehichles were flushed and cleaned when I started using Mobile 1. And the first filter change at 3000 miles or so. Add a quart Mobile 1. Then a complete oil Change at about 10,000 miles or twice a year between Summer and Winter no matter the Vehichles mileage if in good shape. Older or leaking vehicles I added Lucus oil additive & stop leak no problems. If the engines were oil burners or junk nothing would help them repair them selves so, I just used 40 or 50 wt cheap oil and Lucas they were fine. 30 years I am a top fan of Mobile1. But; always seemed I had a slight clicking and ticking in vehicles most noticed when idling and first starting. So, one summer day my Chev pickup is sitting running in front of my new girl freinds house, with me in it and the small ticking got louder and louder. I tapped the foot feet and held it down a bit it leveled off while the noise was definetly still there. After that, I drove about 30 miles to my bud's shop where we mostly worked on everything. He had a hoist and sold tires and gas along the Interstate. He had become a dealer for AmsOil. So, we raised it up and put in AmsOil. Guess what? That ticking and clicking has never been heard from again. I was a changed man ever since. He told me his dad over heated his motor home bad even pealed the paint on the block from low coolant on a hot day. After it cooled down they started it, filled the system it ran perfect no problems. He had put AmsOil in it only a few days before. Hmmm that's pretty impressive to me. Not in any way would I say any thing bad about Mobile1. I remember 20 below zero and my dad was amazed when my Vehichles started with no heater on them. I said it's the oil Mobile1. He had always used Mobile Oil in bulk like 50 gal barrel's he owned at least a dozen vehicle's. He said he never heard of Mobile1. He asked me where he could get some? Same place we alway's do. I seen it in a magazine add the Mobile Station they just only started making it. Dad's gone now and so is the Mobile Station. But; I still use it from Walmart if I don't have AmsOil. Also any Lucas Oil products and Slick 50 are a few more unbelievable great results. Thanks again for all the info.
GM has a bulletin on 01-08 that light lifter noise is pic up tube gets air and the fix to replace oil rubber ring between pump and pic up tube and noise will go away. Just sold my wife's yukon had 5.3 and had 249000 miles and motor runs real smooth and quiet. No noise at all .
@1ROAD Did the additive in your transmission fix 2nd gear or ruin your transmission. Would have been nice if you'd of done a test drive before posting the video. Either way, let us know. thx.
The thing with the magnets is that the oil gets hot, which then makes the magnet hot. Hot Magnet = No Magnet. Not saying it loses all magnetism (which would require it to melt) but it does reduce it a good bit, and seeing as how the magnet was originally already pretty weak, no telling how useful it will be.
While there may be truth in his comment regarding magnets and heat, also kinda redundant comment as you can clearly see in the video or if you have ever changed the oil pan or oil/filter etc of an automatic transmission (magnets just sitting on the bottom of pan from factory) that the magnets still work. How much magnetism/strength do you think is required to capture and hold such teeny tiny little particles? Ideas not to capture say metal shavings because if you have metal shavings of any significant size then you have much bigger problems and unfortunately NO magnet or filter is going to help anyway
I wasted my time watching this video. I read the comments and that made me happy again.
Lawlzzz
The good thing about Project Farm is that he is to the point and the video is about what the title says.
I absolutely love Project Farm, cool to see someone bring him up like that!
YES! Me too.
Just a thought on the drain plug extra magnet. You should check it against the polarity of the tip magnet so that they are not opposing each other, so that the north or south fields are both pointing in the same direction.
My Toyota Tundra transmission has rare earth magnets in the transmission drain pan that get cleaned when i change the filter, they are just held in place with their own magnetism. You could place a large rare earth magnet on the outside of your oil drain pan and check it when you check your oil pump screen, or pull it off right before you drain your oil.
12:05 your welcome
🤣🤣🤣🤣
I fill my side mounted filters a tad bit. The filter soaks up the majority and doesn’t spill when I put it on. Little is better than nothing in my opinion.
I looked to see what a magnet did to his motor. A magnet did NOTHING to his motor.
They run smoother LMAO
@@tukamote6185 +75whp +40MPG
@@punker4Real what a beast
Time to start reading before watching...
Thanks, you saved me 11 mins and 30 seconds. Now to waste it on something else.
What he's doing actually makes sense. Using good oil. Adding an oil additive that works and installing a magnetized drain plug.
What do you do for your engine?
Great video
.Great video I have always used brand name oils. Delo,shell, mobil , and lots of others. Ran a construction company with cat, hitachi detroit engines. Started back in the early seventies, had dozens of old and new pieces of machinery also fords , chevies and dodge pickups. Never used magnets or oil additives and never had engine premature wear. Back in the early seventies oil was a single grade . 10 weight 20 weight and 30 for the summer. Did the recommended change intervals . I'm in my mid seventies now and the message you are sending is wrong . This is my opinion based on experience . The most critical reason cars , trucks or any piece of equipment that had gas or diesel engines gave any trouble was operator abuse, not the lack of additives to the oil. Good oil, regular fuel and air filters , also changed the coolant when needed.
My 2002 S10 has a side mount filter too..what I do is put just enough oil in the new filter to coat the inside without spilling out while installing it...👍
That is exactly what I do to my John Deere lawn tractor.
Fill it just full enough so it doesn`t run out when sideways.
Put a large magnet on the base of your oil filter.Any steel that gets in is trapped even if the filter by-passed for any reason.
Yes. At the bottom or around. Same difference.
Since I started using “filtermags” on my vehicles, I no longer have that small amount of “debris” on my drain plug magnets.
Those oil additives that coat you engine internals are also coating (and clogging) the filter and pick-up screen. We learned that back in the 90s with the whole Slick 50 craze. In a lot of cases manufacturers declined warranty repair if it was found they had been used.
Wow. I came for the suspense. I stayed for the bad advice and obvious lack of good experience.
You can prefill those horizontal filters, just don't completely fill them. Fill them a bit, let the media soak up the oil, then add a bit more. I do this on my motorcycle and the low oil pressure light goes out immediately compared to putting a dry filter on and having to wait a few seconds for oil pressure to build.
Great stuff! People have tested this stuff....brutally tested! And it holds up when others dont come close!
That was my invention with the magnets on the oil filter. I should have patented that when I turn 18, I was 15 and just seeing all these magnets that were in the trash from speakers, back in the day the bolt was magnetic but I said why not at the filter? They did stop the magnets from some factory bolts. I would also use one on my Transmission pan, great video brought back some great videos. The answer to oil in the filter even sideways , you should buy a pre luber, once you turn the key it takes the oil from the bottom of the oil pan and it lubes the motor before you start. Another great idea to keep that engine living longer, a inline oil cooler, to keep the engine oil cooler.
Automatic transmission fail incoming boys!
józsef gál i
My 99 Chevy Silverado used to kick hard into 2nd gear when it was hot. I checked the transmission fluid level and saw it was a few quarts overfull. (I bought it used and it evidently came that way from the dealership I bought it from. I never added any fluid to it). I siphoned 2 1/2 quarts out of the transmission to get it back into the operating range and after that, the hard shift stopped. It's a smooth transition into each gear now.
I have a side mount oil filter, I always fill it right up and let sit for at least 30 minutes, then I hold filter horizontal pouring excess oil into oil drum while very slowly rotating. Then install it immediately with old oil already fully drained and drain plug also already torqued to spec.
Thanks Martin. Some people have a hard time understanding anything.
I use AMSOIL and never have any metal on my magnets and never need to use additive and an oil change last me a few years to boot! that WIX-XP is a top notch filter better than the filter you replaced it with.
When I bought a pair of shoes and was concerned about the leather soles, sales clerk asked if this was the last pair I was going to buy.
On the matter of priming the filter, look at it. If there is an anti flow back valve, fill it. Even if it mounts upside down, you won't lose it all. The idea,is to minimize the effect of a dry start.
I always buy the magnetic drain plugs for my vehicles. When it comes to oil in the filter, I do it no matter the direction. If you pour some in there, the filter will absorb it.
Here I am waiting for the magnet video...
If you’re using a premium full synthetic oil you DON’T NEED any additional additives.
Also…you CAN pre fill (or mostly fill) a horizontal filter if you’re quick to spin it on. .. I do it all the time and don’t loose any oil.(maybe loose a tiny bit sometimes)
In colder temps try to find a motorcraft filter that will fit or a filter with a silicone drain back valve, Hastings filters use rubber and can cause a cold start tick after 100 miles or more, silicone drain back is critical ē in temperatures lower than 50 degrees
Just about every oil filter that's currently available has a Silicone Anti-Drainback Valve -- but somehow, the importance of that silicone valve was ignored -- in favor of saving a few pennies on an Oil Filter that is NOT readily available.
Why people bother to test cheap, hard-to-find filters escapes me -- and experienced mechanics and racers KNOW that oil additives are an expensive waste of money.
Also, after using a “filter mag,” they cut open the filter. Pretty amazing what they see what it traps
The oil will not pour out "completely" with a horizontal filter. Some stays between the media and the can, held in by the anti drain back valve. Some is better than just air.
If you read your owner's manual, you'll see that the manufacturer does not recommend any oil additives but does recommend a good quality oil, like Mobil 1 or any other quality full synthetic oil as long as it is the listed viscosity. That should be all that your engine needs, although I would use Mobil 1 in the extended performance formula even though I don't agree with extending the oil drain interval above the manufacturer's recommendation. Back in the '70s when synthetic auto oil first came out, there were many of these miracle oil additives for sale. The first 2 synthetic oils for sale to the public were Mobil 1 and Amsoil. A co-worker of mine bought a brand new Oldsmobile Toronado when they first came out. Another coworker was also an Amsoil dealer and he sold the new Toronado owner some Amsoil for his first oil change. The Amsoil dealer also sold many other company's additives. There was one additive that guaranteed to make your engine run better because it contained small particles of Teflon in it. The guy did his first oil change with the Amsoil and also fell for the benefits of the Teflon additive. He added the additive and drove his new car for a while. After a couple of months, his new Toronado engine started making clicking engine noises. He took it to the dealer service dept. under warranty. They found all his oil return holes clogged with the Teflon particles causing oil starvation. The oil additive advertised that the Teflon particles were small and would not affect engine operation in any way. They had to flush his entire 2-month-old engine to get rid of all the Teflon particles. This additive almost caused irreversible engine damage to his new car engine but he caught it early enough. This is why I will never use an oil additive but will use a high-quality full synthetic oil, instead. DO YOU FEEL LUCKY?
Great job!
Your right project farm rules!
I wasn't expecting a commercial. Click baiting sucks. You just made it onto the naughty list!
Let make those transmission clutches as slippery as possible 🤣🤪
and rear/front diff
slippery CVTs
I would use this in an open differential, but not limited slip. it may keep it from being able to improve traction. In a manual transmission, it could over-lubricate the synchronizers, making shifting difficult. I wouldn't dare use this in an automatic transmission, for the reason you mention. I can't even guess if it may cause slippage of the push belt or pull chain in either type of mechanical continuously variable transmission. (CVT). I would use it in an electronic continuously variable transmission (eCVT) because they don't rely on friction to transfer torque. They use two electric motors, and a single planetary gear set. The gear ratios are controlled with high powered electronic variable frequency drives, somewhat similar to a modern diesel/electric train locomotive.
@@punker4Real That would be my concern. I wouldn't dare use an additive like this in any application where friction is required, to transfer torque.
If you need to add an oil additive, then you need to use a different brand of oil.
Fram Ultra filter and mobile 1 synthetic oil in all my vehicles. I sleep well at night and my magnets are clean at next change.
I'm a subscriber to "Project Farm" and advise folks to check his channel out. He goes to amazing lengths to prove and disprove the claims of a variety of mechanical and automotive products as well as some that may be more considered as consumer products. As for "Hastings", they've been an automotive parts and additive manufacturer since the beginning of automotive time. After seeing that rare earth magnet and the fact that it has completely magnetized the drain plug, I have an issue that you may have now magnetized an area of the pan around the plug which makes the ability to remove those ferrous deposits next to impossible. In my opinion, the original magnet that's on the end of that drain plug is entirely sufficient for it's intended use.
I live in Oregon and it rains a lot.I use Mobil 1 also and had no sludge or build up in my engine. I started using Motorkote about 60k ago . I kept getting a bunch of Tan whipped cream looking crap on my oil cap , checked my antifreeze level everytime I drove , No cracked block or head gasket ...checked cap, had same thing on underside of oil cap. Shook it off and wiped again.I thought it was moisture in my oil which made it foam. I went through this crap off and on for months. Changed my oil after 1500 cuz it happened again. I then had a hunch it might be the motorkote. I went deep in the net for info on motorkote.....I found out it works great on taxis and big rigs , because they run constantly , they burn all moisture away. Its the motorkote that makes it foam, found out from several sources, not just a couple. changed my oil 4x in 10000 miles. Its been rainy now for 3 months. And what do you know. NO MORE SLUDGE BUILD UP OR FOAM...And the build up I got from this is finally starting to go away. I shine a flash light down the hole where the oil cap is and can see the whole inside front ,timing chain and pulley shaft area.... . That shit will ruin your engine. Do some major research , another thing, it produces chlorinated paraffins , which makes your oil acidic , and start corroding parts in the engine.I live way out in the country and when I do drive, Its at least 20 miles on the engine before I shut it off , Plenty of time to heat up to optimal operating temp. But the foam doesn't flow anymore to cycle through the engine to evaporate the existing moisture....Bottom line is it sucks unless constantly running. If you don't take my word for it , Do 15 minutes on google on Motorkote and see for yourself.
Still getting the tan whipped cream from the motorkote, but not as bad.Its gonna keep happening for awhile because motorkote stays in your engine for a long time. It bonds itself to the metals inside the engine , Ill come back after the next oil change and update.Prob a couple weeks.....
I watch Tod on Project Farm all the time. He's got an awesome channel
Rare earth (ie neodymium) magnets begin losing magntism at 80C.
SH Neodymium Magnets,They are High Temp to 300 degrees.
And they say the Earth's Molten core is magnetic.. LOL What a Crock of BS. It's not even round let alone has a molten core. Proof right there they Lie to you about the core.
We use the Hastings filters everyday at work Hastings makes a great filter. We have never had any issues and are just good quality over all.
Yes! And you can get them dirt cheap on Rock Auto.
Good idea for the drain plug magnet, but any metal pieces caught by the threads on the plug will be scraped off by the oil pan threads when you remove the plug, unless that tiny magnet at the tip catches them...
Maybe screw can do it that when you put extra neodymium on outside screw head on bottom but i don't think so
2 THUMBS DOWN FOR YOUR CLICK BAIT TITLE. NOT COOL MAN........NOT COOL AT ALL. DON'T WASTE VIEWER'S TIME LIKE THAT. ALSO A GREAT WAY TO LOSE RESPECT.
never put Additives in your engine
Put always additive in your engine, IF the additive are ATP AT-205 Re-Seal and/or RVS Engine Restore. You only need to add them to ONE oil change tho, since the effects last MANY oil changes. 100 000 km in the case of RVS.
I use motorkote, too, but always add slightly oil less to allow for the additive so I don't overfill. BTW: The MPG in my 2000 Hyundai went from about 34 to 41 MPG. That alone pays for the MotorKote.
You can use Shell Helix Ultra 0W-40 instead using 5W-30 + oil additive.
A good way to prime your oil system is to pull your fuel fuse or ignition control connections then turn the motor over for 10 seconds and repeat for another 10 seconds. This is more important to do with turbocharged vehicles due to all the extra piping!
That's the worst advice ever! A car will build oil 10x faster starting it less turns compared to a dead slow crank that requires a few extra turns to build up oil pressure.
I flush my engine with Motor Medic at every oil change which keeps the 5.3 tick from appearing. Moreover, Rislone will completely eliminate your lifter tick in just a matter of minutes. The difference in NVH is stark!
Remember a product called Slick 50? It was all the rage back in the day, now motor oil has plenty of added chemicals so no additives are needed. I respect Project Farm as well, but Scotty Kilmer says don't waste your money, so I don't.
CLICKBAIT WARNING!!!!! Magnet did nothing. Snake oil sales pitch.
Only two of these kind I’ve ever used was Lucas and Seafoam… I recommend seafoam to literally everyone, Lucas Stabilizer if you’re worn out and need a few thousand more miles 😂
And you know… HOW??? Are you an engineer or just a YT browser? Show me your documented data or else go away. Our patented Oil Filter Magnet technology won Top Product of the year by Motor magazine. It was also tested by Hurguth laboratories, Titan, laboratories, AC Delco laboratoriesand a dozen others over the years. So where were your tests done ???
U a retard or something? Magnet collects magnetic stuff. No way around that.
You might get slipping in transmission, there are friction plates that need to grip in order to shift gears.
I love that guy project farm , nobody like him .
Hey I like the project farm guy
EA Jam love that guy also and his videos usually have something to do with the video title, even better!
Hastings filters are the same as baldwin. Class act!
My oil filter faces vertically, but I still don't fill it with fluid.
Probably, also, because the opening faces the ground...
I love project farm. Very informative and interesting content!
I used to use a telescoping mechanic's magnet to sweep the bottom surface of my oil pan through the oil drain hole when I changed my oil. It was surprising how much ferrous metal I was able to pick up doing that. I would also tape some of those button magnets along the bottom of the oil pan if it's not made of a ferrous metal. Prefilling an oil filter, whether in a horizontal or vertical orientation, is a good idea. Just saturating the filter media with oil will lessen the time it needs to develop oil pressure when you do the first startup. I would further recommend that you disable the ignition or fuel pump and crank the engine over slowly immediately after the oil change until oil pressure builds up in the system, usually a few seconds. What you don't want is what I sometimes hear at service shops where they do none of this stuff and the engine's valve train clatters for 10 to 15 seconds after an oil change.
Motorkote is some good stuff!
Your transmission sounds like it has varnish build-up.... transx is an excellent additive for your problem. In most cases it will fix a sticky Transmission in only one or two blocks of driving.
Motorkote, when applied to head, will regrow hair if you wear the magnetic helmet. It also increases libido when applied directly.
Keep on making these videos, Jimmy. Always entertaining and informative. I have a 05 AVALANCHE with a 5.3. It always helps to see some try out something first.
I appreciate the videos. I have a 2003 Yukon XL w/ 230K miles and going strong. I also love Project Farm and I am curious to see how this additive works for you.
I just cleaned my maf sensor and fixed hard shifting with my 4l60e. Give it a try.
Instead of adding a rare earth magnet to your drain plug, u should place it on the oil filter, therefore removing any ferrous material when you change the filter.
Let me see if I. Got this right . Your engine takes 6 quarts of oil and you put 6 quarts in then add Motokote now you've over filled the oil pan . Not good ! Adding friction to an automatic transmission proably will void the transmission warranty
Hastings filters are a solid Commercial grade filter for tractor trailer originally so you can bet they will hold up to 5-10-w-30 , they can filter 15-40 for 30,000 miles plus, and the membrane is thicker than a puralator or a fram, Use with confidence, 30 yrs exp.
i tried KY lubricant in my oil. she really found her groove.
You should try MK on your wife,you might find her grove
@@johnbravo7542 he was talking about his wife... lol KY is a human sex lubricant lol
@Ronove easy on your "power stroke " lol
Then, if your oil filter screws on vertically with the open end down, obviously do not pre fill the filter with oil. :)
If you leave the fill cap on when you start draining it is less messy. Then remove the fill cap once oil flow slows down.
yes sounds just like mine with 241k miles on it! Nice oil change jimmy!
NEVER use any additives like that. Look how slick 50 turned out
I sincerely appreciate your pushing the idea of Magnetic Drain Plugs, EVERY engine should have one because no filter can capture the dangerous and damaging particulate under about 20 microns. Why is that a problem? Well, testing has proven that 75% or more of an engines normal wear is caused by metallic particles that are under 8 microns, ones that are NEVER caught in the filter.
Note: The magnetic drain plug you have looks like an OE on some Chevys but may be a Dorman or Help from a local auto parts store. I am sorry to say that these plugs are not anywhere near the power you need to catch all particles, they can barely hold their own weight (2 ounces) when upside down. What you need is one of our Extreme high-power NEO plugs, they can easily lift 3 pounds or more and do not degrade with heat as the cheap ones do. You also eliminate the need of sticking a second magnet on the hex end of the plug, a real pain in the neck
Here are a few clarifications you need to add to your script, they are important and critical.
1. Only about 5% of all vehicles come with Magnetic Drain Plugs, so you need to deliberately add one in most cases.
2. You always need to put oil into a new filter, even those that mount sideways. Dry paper is a problem for the oil pump so just put in less on the ones that are turned, it will be absorbed and not run out. (Remember to also coat the o-ring seal with oil.)
3. NEVER put magnets on the outside of an oil filter, they must go inside! Briefly: You are capturing large particulate BEFORE it is captured by the paper media and this is a problem. You leave this heavy and rough metal all around the inside of the "can", an area that is tight and designed to have the LOWEST coefficient of friction. What you want to capture are particles that will go through that paper and back into the engine, the ones that do 75% of the damage. (Please see the extensive details on the tech at our website... www.OilFilterMagnets.com and www.OilDrainPlug.com )
Please take a look at all the technology we have developed and placed on our websites, you will find many resources and products that are designed to extend the life of your vehicle. Regards, Gary the partsman www.GWRauto.com
Wrong. An Amsoil BYPASS FILTER can trap down to 2 microns.
Just how am I supposed to put my good, strong Black Hole magnets inside my spin on oil filters??
They make Filter Mags. I use on all my Street/Strip cars. About 40.00 Each.
You need to read our tech report on Filter Mag, you will be surprised. Plus you can save a lot of money if you do the right way... check out the technology at this site.... www.OilFilterMagnets.com
Cool videos, I enjoy watching!
i get magnets at the hardware store for size to stick on the bottom of the oil pan and around the oil filter,also change oil filter twice for every oil change,its cheaper than oil
you can always remagnetise the tip. adding another magnet might neutralize the first one
That's what I was thinking based on what he showed. The polarities are cancelling out the original mag at the tip It looks like it has zero magnetization after he adds the button.
It was good to see the material collected on the magnet. I use magnets. The magnets collect different amounts of metal depending on the car its in. Even a 2021 vehicle had some material on the magnet.
The ticking is your fuel injectors, normal. Some of the lifters in the LS motors tick as well which is normal. You are probably feeling the firm down shift into second. That is actually a good sign that your trans is healthy and not slipping. Also it will be more pronounced in a 4wd vehicle with a transfer case. I would not add the motorkote to the trans as it may mess up the paper material in the clutch pack. I only use lubeguard red in my 4l60 E.
You are right. Motorkote is for engines and some gearboxes without clutches.
Ahh the great 4l60e where you replace the clutch bands 2-4 times over the life of your vehicle. I love chevys but I'm not a huge fan of the 4l60e's. My s10 has had the 3 4 clutch packs changed twice with just 117,000 miles on the engine.
The severity of the shift will be proportional to the ratio change and the clutch apply programming.
@@kickazz9473 i got 198000 on my 4l60e, never been into it other than a basic filter change roughly every 30,000 ish miles, and its a 2000 silverado with 4.8l
@@ericeaton371 I won't deny that many don't have problems. My problem is not unique to me. There are forums all over the internet about the 4l60e. For those who've had no problems that's great.
the ticking is CSK. COLD START KNOCK. piston slap to be more precise. after the pistons warm up they grow slightly and the slap goes away.you can use a top end carbon cleaner and it may get rid of your CSK. OUR 2003 gmc 5.3 truck never did it and had 140k. i recommend using lucas upper cylinder lubricant every time you fill up.
What? it was normal injector noise nothing more.
Bad idea megnatizing the bolt. Metal on the threads as you remove it= dickered threads. That's why the magnet it smaller in diameter. Use a longer magnet if possible.
I've always used them and they absolutely work! Want proof?! Just put one in and on the next oil change look at the tip of the drain plug.
It's a GM truck, dude, it WILL tick! Period.
You should never use a friction modifier in an automatic transmission!
Lmao he's gonna be slipping all gears now
Agree. Just use the latest version of the recommended fluid. -- I've got a friend who used to work for HydraMatic. He says the fluid is not necessarily bad when it turns brown, but is is if it smells burned. So I did changed at 45K (when I bought) and 75K. He thinks the fluid will be good to 175K, watching its appearance/smell. THM4L80E
Just use exactly what Ford recommends for fluid, but do it every 30k miles.
it says it's wetclutch safe, so should not be a problem. but i've read some bad stuff about motorkote. so i wont be trying it out anytime soon
Yep his clutches are gonna be trashed you don't want friction reduction in a multi clutch transmission like an auto only transmission fluid
I used to use old speaker magnets on my race car engines! took some epoxy, cleaned the paint off on the side of the pan, the magnets stick, epoxy made them stay where i put them. on a dirt car, the pan sticks close to the track, not much clearance, so stuckem on the side of the steel pans. worked well, all the parts that fell into the oil was on that side of the pan.
If you use rare earth magnets you must protect them from oxydation. The fact they look shinny doesn't mean they are stainless steel and they will in fact oxyde pretty fast releasing toxic oxydes and loosing a lot of theyre magnetic properties. Any paint, glue... will help !
Even my horizontal oil filters. fill them up once and the filter material will suck up almost all the oil. little or no oil is left loose to spill out.
I'm going to look to get one of those magnets and put them on the fill plug that goes into my rear differential.
The magnetic drain plug is not supposed to catch all the metal particules. It's only supposed to catch some of them to let you know that they are present in the oil.
The ticking noise on These old vortex engines is common to me it sounds like exhaust leak though Jimmy @1ROAD
I work for Jiffy Lube I take Drain plugs out of cars everyday, from old to new, from Honda to Jaguar. The only cars that get magnet tipped drain plugs are Chevy Silverados/ GMC Sierras 1500 models only. Magnets don't help as much as you think it does that's what the oil filter is for as long as you change your oil on time the engine will be a lot cleaner.
If the motorkote made any meaningful difference then why wouldn't oil manufacturers already include it in the oil?
Because the oil companies produce motorkote which is more profit get it ?
I think you answered your own question, Catrik.
Great Video 1 Road, Here is a tip you can try with that ticking or clicking sound. I have used Mobil 1 Since it first came on the market and my Vehichles were flushed and cleaned when I started using Mobile 1. And the first filter change at 3000 miles or so. Add a quart Mobile 1. Then a complete oil Change at about 10,000 miles or twice a year between Summer and Winter no matter the Vehichles mileage if in good shape. Older or leaking vehicles I added Lucus oil additive & stop leak no problems. If the engines were oil burners or junk nothing would help them repair them selves so, I just used 40 or 50 wt cheap oil and Lucas they were fine. 30 years I am a top fan of Mobile1. But; always seemed I had a slight clicking and ticking in vehicles most noticed when idling and first starting. So, one summer day my Chev pickup is sitting running in front of my new girl freinds house, with me in it and the small ticking got louder and louder. I tapped the foot feet and held it down a bit it leveled off while the noise was definetly still there. After that, I drove about 30 miles to my bud's shop where we mostly worked on everything. He had a hoist and sold tires and gas along the Interstate. He had become a dealer for AmsOil. So, we raised it up and put in AmsOil. Guess what? That ticking and clicking has never been heard from again. I was a changed man ever since. He told me his dad over heated his motor home bad even pealed the paint on the block from low coolant on a hot day. After it cooled down they started it, filled the system it ran perfect no problems. He had put AmsOil in it only a few days before. Hmmm that's pretty impressive to me. Not in any way would I say any thing bad about Mobile1. I remember 20 below zero and my dad was amazed when my Vehichles started with no heater on them. I said it's the oil Mobile1. He had always used Mobile Oil in bulk like 50 gal barrel's he owned at least a dozen vehicle's. He said he never heard of Mobile1. He asked me where he could get some? Same place we alway's do. I seen it in a magazine add the Mobile Station they just only started making it. Dad's gone now and so is the Mobile Station. But; I still use it from Walmart if I don't have AmsOil. Also any Lucas Oil products and Slick 50 are a few more unbelievable great results. Thanks again for all the info.
That’s the fuel injectors making that noise lmfao
That ticking sound are you're lifters failing already
Those magnets probably get demagnetized by the high temperatures anyway
GM has a bulletin on 01-08 that light lifter noise is pic up tube gets air and the fix to replace oil rubber ring between pump and pic up tube and noise will go away. Just sold my wife's yukon had 5.3 and had 249000 miles and motor runs real smooth and quiet. No noise at all .
Project Farm is THE most dry guy out there... but he has the best tests done by not a scientific shop! Great learning!
1 tiny round magnet will not do much, however several long narrow bar magnets all around the filter do a lot and are cheap.
@1ROAD Did the additive in your transmission fix 2nd gear or ruin your transmission. Would have been nice if you'd of done a test drive before posting the video. Either way, let us know. thx.
The 5.3 in my 2014 Silverado was a bit noisy as well. I think it’s GM’s version of the Mopar Hemi tic? Great video!
The thing with the magnets is that the oil gets hot, which then makes the magnet hot.
Hot Magnet = No Magnet. Not saying it loses all magnetism (which would require it to melt) but it does reduce it a good bit, and seeing as how the magnet was originally already pretty weak, no telling how useful it will be.
Cheap weak condom is better then no condom, think of it that Way lol
While there may be truth in his comment regarding magnets and heat, also kinda redundant comment as you can clearly see in the video or if you have ever changed the oil pan or oil/filter etc of an automatic transmission (magnets just sitting on the bottom of pan from factory) that the magnets still work. How much magnetism/strength do you think is required to capture and hold such teeny tiny little particles? Ideas not to capture say metal shavings because if you have metal shavings of any significant size then you have much bigger problems and unfortunately NO magnet or filter is going to help anyway
Nice video. All these experts that don't know that motor comes with an aluminium oil pan. Lmbo
Project Farm is AWESOME!!!!
Did you get more MPG's?
seems bacon grease is just as great as motorkote