Lomography DigitaLIZA Max first look
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- Опубликовано: 5 июл 2024
- The folks at Lomography were cool enough to send me a DigitaLIZA Max / + to test with 35mm and 120 film camera scans. I took my Hasselblad 500CM and 500 ELX out with Kodak Gold 200 and Lomography 100 in 120 format to test the DIgitaliza as a camera scanning device. I also used a roll of Lomography's new Metropolis 2021 formula and an expired roll of Kodak Portra 160 VC.
CHECK OUT THE LOMOGRAPHY BLOG ON JUNE 3, 2022, FOR AN INTERVIEW WITH ME! I WILL UPDATE THIS SPACE WITH A LINK WHEN IT IS LIVE!
And you can also buy the DitaLIZA Max and Plus on Lomography's website.
Check out my first camera scanning video (and my first YT vid) here: • Film scan with DSLR
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0:00 Meet the DigitaLIZA MAX
1:45 120 Film
4:01 Panoramic Stitches
7:38 35mm film scanning
9:45 Conclusions
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![Scanning 35mm & 120 Film WITHOUT a Flatbed Scanner [Lomography DigitaLIZA Max First Impressions]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LX1JEFeBQJI/mqdefault.jpg)
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CHECK OUT MY LOMOGRAPHY MAGAZINE INTERVIEW/REVIEW! www.lomography.com/magazine/348582-jamie-maldonados-portraits-scanned-with-the-digitaliza-plus-and-digitaliza-max ... So cool getting to do this!
this was a very helpful video. I'm planning on building a stand for mirrorless camera scanning, and was considering this system
Awesome! I think building a stand is a smart idea. When I got my camera stand, it was about half the price they're selling for now. I think the best thing to do other than keeping it level is the ability to have the camera out far enough from the base of the riser that you can fit your light/scanning equipment under it well. If that makes enough sense ... ha. Thank you!
Thanks for this, we have a vacation coming up and it feels like the perfect time to save on scans and try camera scanning at home. This setup seems very beginner-friendly (and affordable) compared to the alternatives. My only worry is that it'll actually work out and lead me to trying medium format (since medium format scans feel prohibitively expensive in my area) 😅
Heh ... uh oh! I feel like medium format is still fairly affordable with the right choices. But yeah ... not sure about the situation you'd be trying to shoot it in. And this is an ideal beginner setup! You can put your camera on a tripod and get to work just about out of the box. You're welcome, and thank you for watching and commenting!!
Does anybody know the CRI score of the light panel?
Is this light source full spectrum? Every portable light table I've tested for scanning lacks a lot of color reproduction and it shows on scanned images.
I'm going to guess it probably isn't full spectrum, but also my Negative Supply basic panel is supposed to be full spectrum and I didn't think to do a direct test with it. I did not notice unevenness or color cast, though, but I do wish I had better means to test for that. Thanks for bringing that up!
The Lomo Metropolis with flash is properly good. Question about the DigitaLIZA: Sometimes I work with rollei IR 400, and the negatives are always incrediblly thin. Do you think it will still roll through fairly easily, or would i be better off using a different technique? Love the video. Always great work. Shot #7 at 3:45. Very Very nice. Those colors with the sunflare chef's kiss*
Thank you!! I really appreciate it.The thing negative should go through well, especially since that film I think dries extremely flat from my memory? The only time I had issues was with some extremely curly ultra expired film I developed for a friend. It was both thicker and naturally looped tightly. I was still able to coax it through and could probably do so faster now. I hope that helps!
what an informative video! some of the scans had a rather noticable colour cast. i think it worked in your case but it's something I like to avoid myself. do you think this colour cast was to do with your developing process or perhaps the CRI of the digitaliza backlight?
Hey, thank you! I actually think the cast was a lot of bouncing light in the corner of that handball court. I was shooting a flash and the light was pretty intense, too. Her skirt was not only stark orange, but also very reflective. The light itself is quite neutral, though I don't really know its CRI rating. I probably could have corrected it with a bit more work, but I usually only go so far for video edits since I feel like most views wind up the size of postage stamps or with the quality of mashed potatoes on other connections. ha ha.
@@JamieMPhoto thanks for the info! It might just be down to the lighting & gold 200. I've found gold 200 to have some cyan cast in the highlights when shot with flash. I'd really like to see someone use one of those CRI checking devices on the Digitaliza+ as Lomography doesn't publish the numbers.
@@blabla12345200 That would be interesting! I'd definitely want to test it in more that spot since there was so much light bouncing around. I need to get some devices like that ...
i'm a little concerned about the magnet on the 120 negatives. They are directly on the neg, that's right ? I want to try this device for my 6x12 but if the magnets touch the negatives and leave marks, it is a big no...
I saw no evidence of marks from the magnets, and they were not particularly powerful. I never left a negative in overnight, so maybe it would be different, but I don't think they pose any major risk unless maybe you try to drag the film through it closed.
I really enjoy your videos (watched 3 today) . I'm no expert but you have a really distinctive style with your photographs. I would love to do film photography but I can't really afford it so I'll stick to my Panasonic tz70, which is enough for me. All the best, Richard.
Definitely do what works best for you! Film might be fun to do as an occasional treat, and black and white can be much cheaper. But definitely what matters most is just making photos you want to make, no matter what medium. Thank you for watching!!
@@JamieMPhoto No problem, thanks for posting all these great videos. P.s. I do have an old canon film camera ( not a great one) but I'm not sure if it works. Maybe I'll try it one day.
@@ilesjazz You're very welcome!! And it doesn't take much ... so I say give that camera a chance and go for it! I'll be glad to give any advice that might help.
I think this will be good for faster scans. I have a Nikon 8000 ED which will give the best scan quality possible at home, but it’s SLOW. Tried DSLR scanning, the colors were always off. This can be a great option for quick scans, and use the Nikon for bigger more important images
I had used a Coolscan ages ago, and that was my impression, too: Nice scans, but forever slow. Haha. Negative Lab Pro really cemented my belief that camera scanning is the best approach at home for most people. The DigitaLIZA is definitely great for speed+quality with versatility and a good price. Thank you for watching and commenting!
Great stuff man. Been with ya since that first vid. :)
Not a bad little product they've come up with here. Though it appears to me that 6x9 is not a possibility??? That's unfortunate if so.
Well, awesome! Thank you!! It's been a journey? haha. And hmm ... yeah, it does look like 6x7 is the max size. You'd have to resort to stitching for 6x9, but at least it's a pretty good setup for making that relatively easy to align.
@@JamieMPhoto You were the first vid I can ever remember watching that explained what you were doing well. I only experimented with it personally and kept my Pakon and flatbed. But when I caught wind of Negative Lab Pro (2 years later? I cant even remember) that's when I was "in". :D
Re: 6x9... Yeah I suppose that's fine, but man hate stitching for everyday scans.... Though for a roll of 6x9 it's only 8-frames. I may pick this up just for the portability of the thing, and that base does indeed look intriguing. I'm using two different 3D printed carriers for both formats for several years now and they're fine but have their irritations/challenges.
@@eyewandersfoto I can relate! I've used even more stuff than I put in that intro, too. ha ha. I do enjoy being able to scan 120 without stitching it, even though I do the Sony Pixel Shift thing ... but I can process those all at once, so it's not a major pain now that I figured that out. I do love the extra size/detail you can get from stitching, though ... but I consider it something like drum scanning: The regular scans are probably fine, but if you get something you really want to make huge, then stitch that. And thank you for the kind words! So glad I've been able to present things with a little clarity.
@@JamieMPhoto For sure. Totally agree. Honestly I used to be a lot more particular but I've sorta trained myself to calm down and just blow through rolls so that I have decent web-OK scans, a high-quality proof sheet almost I guess (and I scan at lower res too)... then if there's something I really want to get a good one of I'll go back and get it specifically, making stitch if something I really want. I've just talked to a lot of folks that stitch medium format as par for the course, and I've gone the opposite direction. I even keep my basic quick scans in JPG nowadays after I invert. HERESY! Sorry not sorry. lol I just realized I got on great that way with the 3000x2000px output from the Pakon for most of a decade so essentially try to replicate that filesize and ease with my "everyday" workflow now. If nothing else the modularity and adaptability of cameras-scanning keeps proving itself again and again.
Wow, yeah, the process that works for you is what's best! I definitely stress less about saving things in JPG, especially since a larger JPG will almost certainly be nearly indistinguishable from a TIFF or PSD, at least to most people.
The usual use of carnival is for night shots, what with all the lights. Here you changed things up and made good use of golden hour.
Thank you! I really want to find an ultra bright carnival that's lit up at blue hour ... I'll definitely keep trying.