CUT50P no pilot arc fix, inside look, and plug install
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- Опубликовано: 8 июн 2018
- It works, but It didn't at first. Had PA staring problems with higher psi, looks to be nozzle gap issue. $270 on ebay, but price changes all the time. Instructions don't tell you how to install the plug. If you want the pilot arc just a common search is CNC plasma cutter, because those are pilot arc staring not HF or high frequency start. Remember you need a good compressor to run a plasma cutter
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I have had a CUT50P for five or six years. It worked fine for me but after awhile it didn't work well. I didn't use it for the last few years until I found that you have to keep the electrode and its shield tight so they don't move by hand. Also make sure your plasma gun cable is attached to the machine tightly. As soon as I did that, it started working real well. I can use it very well. I can cut everything after form 20 gauge (or thinner) up to easily 1/2". It can probably cut a bit higher but I don't have anything thicker. To cut up to 3/16" use Amps 20, PSI 30. From 13/64" to 19/64" use Amps 30, PSI 40. From 5/16" to 3/8" use Amps 40, PSI 40. From 25/64" to 31/64 use Amps 50, PSI 40. Everything above that is Amps 50, PSI 40.
My torch refuses to fire over 30psi
But mostly sheet metal, like the compressors on central air units and appliance metal
Probably the best review of the Cut50 w/ pilot arc. Nozzle cut away was great. LED for diode was funny. Thanks for posting this!
I love the pilot arc function on my everlast plasma cutter. It is so cool that plasma cutters have come down so much in price.
Thank you for video. Your video is the ONLY video I could find that actually went over the plug wiring. I have different Cut50 (came with no plug) with brown/blue/yel-green wire and I was not sure how to hook that up. So thank you!!
That's one if the big reasons for making this,it took me so much research i was afraid of frying it. Glad it helped!
Outstanding review... and improvised repair to this plasma cutter. Thanks for sharing.
So, it works. Congratulations.
I had the same problem with my cut 50 ,, anything over 35 psi it would blow the pilot ark out ,, I put a brass washer .5mm thick under the electrode ,, easy fix ,as i have about 200 on a packet i dont think i will run out soon ,For $300 delivered (australia) its a great tool ,, i have had mine about 9 months and flogged the crap out of it ,, I find 40 amps and 50psi will chop thru anything over 10 mm to about 14mm 3/8 to 9/16 inch for 1mm to about 10mm i use 25 amps and 40 psi ,,, the electrodes wear out faster than i thought but for $50 you get 50 of each consumables so no big deal..
this machine has saved me so much time ,, Great vid SPF ,,
Hey mate about to buy one of these, still rate it? Also did you wire the power plug? Cheers
This is exactly why it's well worth reading through the comments, thanks a bunch mate! Got my cut 50P yesterday, first problem - air hose inside machine was bent closed. Then I could not get the pilot arc running, sputtering at best (tried gapping the contact points to no avail). Read your comment and unscrewed the electrode (P-80 torch) by 1/2 to 3/4 turn to get the electrode closer to the tip and now runs a pilot arc as it was supposed to, will get hold of some brass washers, cheers.
13 yrs Prepper, thx for the tip about the washer, guy! Gonna try that to fix my sputtering dilemma.
I just wanted to say thanks and let others know this worked for me, as well.
I am glad this helped
Cool video. Thanks. I have the pilot arc but like yours mine is junk.
Good video thank you. Cut away nozzle, great explanation and I think it will cure my problem. I have a Cut50p which is great when and if it works, it has been driving me up the wall, I tinker with the tips and it may work and then stops for no reason. I think that you have solved it for me; good job Sir.
When this thing is cutting good....it cuts good. Other times I've had it eat through tips. I got what a paid for but good enough for what I do.
Did this work? I’m having the same issue.
I don't think it actually made much difference. I did alter some tips on my lathe but still experienced the same problems. The thing is, if you disconnect the pilot arc and try it as a scratch start, as soon as you touch the metal the tip is earth and the arc should start but it does not. Really frustrating things, also as soon as the arc is established the pilot arc circuit should sense that and disconnect it's self and the arc should still be forced out of the tip. I have found that the recommended maximum working pressures are far too low. If you look on the circuit board there are two 'points' separated with a gap of about thirty thou' you can adjust this gap to get an arc. I have recently posted a video about some of these machines problems: Repairing and improving a plasma cutter. Hope this helps, Jon
Yeh, I got the same thing going on with my brand new CUT50DP from another mfg, sputter city! Thx for the tip about the electrode, I'm gonna try raising it up, will use a small washer like commentor here suggested.
I never understand people going through these things (I have one of these, or atleast a variant of) showing how bad they are, after all they are between 10-20% the price of a proper one so what do you expect. Buy one, if you find you're using it more than it was designed to be used then go and get a professional one. If not, it sits on a shelf in the shed and gets used a handful of times in a year.
@4:00 It is quite common for electronic equipment to have LEDs hidden inside. They are typically to help with quick diagnostics and sometimes even verification in production. Quite often a green LED just indicates that a board is powered up and a red one may indicate a fault.
These LED's could be Voltage References.
Lots of designers use LEDs as voltage references. Red ones and green ones have a different voltage drop.
Okay I could see that. Just I haven't really seen it used like that.
Once you get those things dialed in.. They work great...
Nice video 👍
Cool review, like how you rubbished the machine. Yet the mains wiring!! 🤣
The LEDs are universal parts that work in many different machines.
Mine didn’t work out of the box, I tried all your tips, but no cigar, so I fixed it by sending it back and getting a refund.
Смотрел через переводчик. Спасибо
I think those cut 50s are mostly the same boards and electronics inside. They just modify them to fit in whatever case they can and call them a different name.
my cut55 is doing the same thing I dont get the pilot arc but I can still get it to cut by touching it. I hear the HF buzz. im going to try this
Mine is doing the same thing. Did this work for yours?
Is the pilot arc stuff basically front cap connected to GND over a resistor, to limit pilot arc current?
I have a couple of CUT40s, bought cheap and broken. If adding pilot arc is that easy, I probably refit them as well (like use 100 or 200W light bulb as current limitor).
I thought there was one tiny extra circuit board...I thought there was write ups on the internet on how to add pilot arc. That was a while ago I forgot
yes and no. the cap is connected to the GND, but a little circuit regulates the process, so its not all the time on full power.
Hi that's great explanation of the machine function. And talking about the be so ship. But never said the price?
Mine was good under $200. I think now they are 250 and higher
I bought a cut-50df (a pilot arc) used it once now no air or arc. Damn thing is brand new. Power to the front lights and air is good. Any thoughts?
Idk. Start with the handle and make sure the trigger is working and wires to the handle
The led's have a use in the circuitry.
Would you recommend putting a a 10-3 power cord wire in place of the standard plug wire on it now. I am thinking about it. Or do you think the bigger wire would let to much amperage into the machine and damage it. My 220 plug I am plugging it into is 10-3 wired and so is my extension cord. Like you said that short power cord doesn't cut it.
Bigger is okay. It can only take whatever amp it can pull. Bigger wire will not push more amps in. Bigger is almost safer
make a new cover out of steel,you might know someone who can cut it with their plasma cutter.....
Add some box section around edge of the case to add more space for air movement,and the new cover is only wider ,same depth and height,10mm box would add plenty or space.
It would help.Add some pc/computer dust filters to the new case cover,if the machine works well enough and returns are going to be difficult retro fit the unit to safe guard and protect the guts from micro metallic particulates,as you mentioned you don't want it on the board ...or any board,our super duper state of the arc...art Tig welder was sold as untested,it was contaminated with grinder dust,it was pretty much brand new.
LEDs are diodes,they have a Vf that's forward voltage drop,so they can be used the control a constant current source or be a voltage refference,ALL DIODES EMIT LIGHT,some are made to emit while others are not used so,not all are visible light anyway.The LEDs may be for testing,to show function of certain controls.
SungoldPower. 50. Brand new. Fan works. Air works. On/ off switch does not light up. Does not cut (no arc at all). Any suggestions please. Thanks
Have u tried really low air psi like 10psi? Just to see if anything happens. Then go up from there
Does it have pilot arch? If not is your ground good? I didn't know how to strike an arch
I got the same one, but I get no air flow out of my machine, any suggestions?
Air solenoid getting a signal?
Check the air drier/filter is on the right way round. The one fitted to my CUT50 was on backwards !
What gauge of wire is your power cord? Mine is 14 Gauge. I want
To wire it to 220 but I feel like that 14 gauge wire won’t handle it?
The 14 AWG is stock for the short length anything longer than that like my extension needs to be 12 AWG or bigger
Ok so you think I will be ok to leave the 14 gauge power cord on and just add the 220 plug to it? Thanks for the reply. Is your unit still going?
Ok so you think I will be ok to leave the 14 gauge power cord on and just add the 220 plug to it? Thanks for the reply. Is your unit still going?
Ok so you think I will be ok to leave the 14 gauge power cord on and just add the 220 plug to it? Thanks for the reply. Is your unit still going?
Dam I guess my phone went nuts...
I have one of these and I spent 5 minutes or more trying to cut...when it finally fires I'm not ready and then once I shut it off I can't get it going. Replaced tip...got 3 seconds of cut, went tonrestart...cant
I'm cutting thin metal. Or trying. I could done the job ( with a lot more noise and sparks) with a grinder by now
You sound kind of condescending about this low cost plasma cutter with pilot arc. Does it work now? Price point is below $300. I bought the “Mophorn” CUT50 with pilot arc from Amazon. It works fine. I paid only $215 in Nov. 2020. The consumables are highly variable piece to piece or supplier to supplier but cheap.
It's cheap, but I got what I paid for.
Can this cutter be use in a CNC table?
It should be able to
You are honna want a blowback start machine, the electric noise from the hf will screw with the motor controller somethong horrible.
Could be you have .03 electrodes with .045 nozzles?...or vice versa. Not sure there is a difference in gap.
That could be they don't have the best quality control when packing them
What's the difference between a pilot arc and non pilot arc
PA has a cutting arc ready to cut to start . non PA u have to strike an arc like a stick welder.
Looks/preforms like cheap chinese junk. Where did you purchase the unit from? I will definitely reconsider purchasing a cheap plasma cutter on ebay after watching this video.
Send it back
60% of the time it works every time!
Lol and it's true
There is a choice, $200----$500 for China gamble or $1500---$2500 for Lincoln or Miller.....
Hypertherm and thermal dynamics are the big names in plasma cutters
They look like they are garbage on the inside.
I bought one but have never looked inside.
the reason why your wires are so thick is because US thought 110 volt is enough. its about the amps. higher voltage same amps? thinner wire or much more wattage
I am running this on 240/220
The reason I use thicker cable is because of the length. But yes that is a common in the states thicker cable lower voltage. A lot of our appliances use to 220 / 240
Led on the board is for fault on controll board for trouble shouting not as a diode
That makes sense too. I have seen that before.
@@sweetpigfarm3645 looks like the parts was assembled in vietnam😅
I got the same one from Ebay and they understand English just fine but pretend they don't. Mine broke right away so I wanted my money back and ended having Ebay step in because of the games they were playing. Probably same person you got your from who knows.
I hate to stereotype but they're getting really good at that game of "not understanding" for a lot of products. That's why I still have not used the website Alibaba.
If you give 300 + 4 that that's your fault I A $169 for mine on Amazon and it works great You must own Miller or Lincoln If you don't like it send it back get your money back
This was over 3yrs go. At the time best price. Amazon at the time could not beat the price.
You have what you pay sir
it looks like you should have gotten a HYPERTHERM but they are about 1800 dollars.
I think looking at parts, summing up their value and stating, "it's hard to justify the value"., is wrong thinking. Take any cut 50 and YOU make the conversion without the design knowledge how to, without a bag of pre existing selected components, without a simple circuit board to populate, and fit it into an existing design, then the value of what a small extra amount of dollars brings can be appreciated. You are not just paying for components, you are paying for the efforts of design engineers and spreading that cost into thousands of units sold worldwide to bring you a cheap yet elegant solution to a problem. To ask that everything be completed to perfection only drives up costs. You wanted cheap, there it is, but it works if used within design limits. Don't exceed them and get years of adequate service for the hobbyist.
Haven't listened to the video in a while I think I was getting to the point where u get what u paid for I am cheap a hobbyist and it's good enough for me. Honestly there is a lot going on in there it's a good value when most are hundreds of dollars more
I used my cut50df once and it stopped working. I just cut half of part. Came back the next day and the damn thing wouldn’t work.
Waste of great components who ever manufacture this machine has no pride in their work.
I need help with my plasma cutter. I would appreciate any information on how to fix It. I forgot to show that I have a air gauge on the back at 60 PSI. ruclips.net/video/MZFMeScDeqU/видео.html
Have u tried a lower psi?
Dont comment on electronics for your own sake. You are embarrassing to yourself . You clearly have very little knowledge of electronics
You're right it's was just a general look into it. At the time no one had a look inside.
Instead of buying a budget plasma cutter and then complaining about it being crap just go and spend ten grand on a pro top of the range machine then your problem is solved.
Did I complain? I knew what I bought and I was fine with the price I paid for it. It works