One of The best Volvo maintenance channel on the planet. The best mechanic for your car is your yourself and you will need to know exactly what u r doing! And keep sharing with us these awesome vids! Thank u so much!
Wanna have a good tip? Never use a impact wrench on a separator. Use a hand wrench to make pressure and wait, the tie rod will pop out in a minute or two. You risk to blow it up in your face. You could also use a sledge hammer on the steel lug and it will pop out.
Thats what I like, you are doing this all by yourself as a non-professional. I do have the same style of working on my V70's.... Everything on my private drive way, for the P3 platform your channel is one of the best👍
If you want original at a cheaper price buy Lemförder. The volvo tie rods are made by Lemförder, you can even see the tiny triangular logo on the boot and on the metal on the bottom side. Also I find it easier to remove tie rod ends from the knuckle by leaving the nut on loosely and hitting it with a hammer. Prevents things from flying everywhere too.
Yup! I have to order one today. Lemförder is $25 vs the "Volvo" one at nearly $150. I'll try out the OE Lem version for THAT much of a difference. I'm sure it's totally fine.
Great video as usual. For anyone without the rod splitter tool, you can screw on the top nut, and give the outer tie rod a good few hits from the top. It will pop right out.
3:38. I couldn't loosen that nut with a wrench and hammer, it was properly seized so applied torque using a jack. Pretty sketchy because it could have slipped and sent the wrench flying at 300mph but took it steady and it worked. Eliminated 90% of my clunks and knocks. Great vid, many thanks.
Hi you're doing a great job, the reason why i like your videos is because you are not a professional and dont have specialised tools as you said about yourself.👍
Your boot had split and lost the grease, destroying the joint. I gave up using Volvo stuff on these parts. Volvo track rod, £95. Lemforder £30. I see no difference and I bet it will do 60K.
My 2008 V70 just got new tires and 4 wheel alignment. Alignment was $100 here in Florida. I have never had to replace tie rod ends on three Volvos. Good job, thanks Yuri.
Your content is so excellent. Seriously helped me out with the blower motor install, lift gate struts and transmission flush. But I had no issue with the removing the tie rod with just a few quick hammers to remove the old one.
Thanks for your excellent and very useful P3 videos. I just did tie rods along with lower control arms and stabilizer bar links on my 2008 XC70 with 180k miles. They were all original and in great shape. To get the old tie rods out, I just put the old nut back on a few turns and then hammered it out with a 4 lb hammer. It helps to knock the side of the socket on the knuckle a few times to loosen things up. It took about 8-10 medium strikes to free it. Pretty easy. The control arms were a challenge but after multiple failed attempts I realized the secret sequence to the puzzle and then it was a piece of cake. After all was done, despite counting the turns on the tie rods, the alignment was so bad as to be scary to drive. So I manually adjusted the inner tie rod on one side enough to be able to drive down the road using the tape measure method for toe in (measure distances between front and rears of the two front tires). Car feels new now. I forgot how good these P3s feel when new. Outstanding car.
Hey Yuri, the real pain is to replace the struts! I built the special tool (999 7310) and still can't remove without being destroyed the lower ball joint, even using the method from VIDA. The top of the nut is crushed, but stupid ball joint doesn't come out! I don't know why stupid designers choose the struts without lower bracket. Most Volvo's have regular design.
I think the problem was ford's heavy involvement in the design. It's really clear in some of the repairs that volvos "easy repair" option got overruled by ford's "cheaper to modulate" design.
Listen, you've already replaced the accessory belt. Because somehow I can't see it without removing the air conditioning pump. Or there is some other way that I don't know about. I have to deal with it because I have a belt to replace and one of the rollers. Because you probably did not insert the movie from such an exchange.
Great video. I got a bit discouraged by the issues with getting the bolts loose and the puller tool which i don't have. A little heat and a sledgehammer works too and makes this a quick job. Thank you sir!
wheel alignment everywhere on earth green is good. I have done it once in Germany: on green bad, on the middle line acceptable :)) really amazing. and the car was indeed amazing. camber noting to be done not that bad 0,2...
4:10 your one was easy compared to mine. I couldn't get mine loose by tapping the wrench like that. One one side of the vehicle it was easy to push the wrench with my leg but it was possible on the other side. Ended up smashing my hand into the ABS wire bracket on the strut and got a pretty deep cut from that.
Very good video, as usual. A couple of well-aimed blows on the spider had also gone well instead of using the puller. If you ever want to remove the ball joint without damaging it, which can happen with the tool. Your Camber angle is just outside the tolerance value and is as your mechanic said no danger to drive with.
To me breaking the tie rod ball joint free with the hammer is such satisfaction. Even the ball joints on the 700/900 series still puts a smile on my face knowing the neighbours will hear the 2lb hammer ringing out in the street.
On most stock cars only the toe can be adjusted. I bought K-MAC camber/caster strut mounts and Meganracing camber and Hardrace toe arms for the rear for full adjustability. I have a bit of negative camber on my XC60 so the 9.5” wide wheels fit under the fender.
count the turns of the tie rod and transfer that many to the new. should get you very close. best bet with an alignment is just a local independent shop with a machine.
i searched everywhere but since you were a p3 and i have a p3 was hoping you could help me with installing a o2 sensor as i cant find any info on installing one via volvo or location where it was or is, assuming its before the converter
just get an o2 wrench, unscrew it, screw in the new one, tie the two cables together and pull the old one out the top, while also pulling the new connector up with it, clip it in, zip tie the wires away from the exhaust and good to go.
@@volvosweden вы практические не пользуетесь пневмогайковертом,вся замена наконечников на двух колесах,занимает 30 минут с использованием гайковёрта!Наконечник зачищаете грубой щеткой(гайку на шарнире и на рулевой тяге)Брызгает каким нибудь средством для борьбы с ржавчиной,но не маслом,если не откручивается,режете гайку на шарнире или гайколомом ломаете,а если на тяге рулевой,то греет газом минуты 3 И мокрой тряпкой резко охлаждает(термо удар,откручивания 95 процентов гаек)если с первого раза не получилось то ещё раз и ещё,и сто процентов после третьего открутиться!При установке,обязательно смазать хотя бы маслом рулевую тягу и налить гр 5 в наконечник,чтобы в следующий раз было без проблем!С нагревом можно и на цапфе,если не выходит палец шарнира рулевого наконечника:бьете в сошку два резких удара молотком весом 900-1000 гр. И одеваете съёмник,и как правило,если сам не выпал после ударов,а это 90 процентов случаев,то стемником сниматься легко!Если вы эти процедуры примите во внимание,то менять в следующий раз будет проще и быстрее и пользуйтесь ударным гайковертом не стесняйтесь,это скорость и ваши руки будут целы и не устанете,потому что на земле не камильфо менять на корточках,я это делаю на подъёмнике,это занимает 15 минут сторона,даже если сильно Закис!Удачи в ваших начинаниях!
@@GamerDud2003 because is it actually informative to you? No. You're just here to say first! Videos like this are informative, I bet you never even watched it either.
@@monkehbitch He's a gamer and probably about 17 years old! They have nothing to do but type First....makes me sick, how sad they can be, just to get a reaction.
@@centaurus5676 First of all I have literally no time to game anymore, second I’m not looking for a damn reaction, third you’re the one calling me sad? You’re the one who’s getting upset here.
Its best to do the inner tie rod ends too- The alignment shop will thank you! And much easier to replace. I always find hitting the knuckle with the hammer and not popping off the tie rod end with the tool more satisfying. Re-installing the new tie rod, I just jack up the tie rod and allow friction to do the work. I see that channel is still displaying your video. Did you get youtube to copyright strike them?
One of The best Volvo maintenance channel on the planet. The best mechanic for your car is your yourself and you will need to know exactly what u r doing! And keep sharing with us these awesome vids! Thank u so much!
Wanna have a good tip? Never use a impact wrench on a separator. Use a hand wrench to make pressure and wait, the tie rod will pop out in a minute or two. You risk to blow it up in your face. You could also use a sledge hammer on the steel lug and it will pop out.
Serious question: Why wouldn't you just whack the crap out of the rod from the top rather than using the tool?
Thats what I like, you are doing this all by yourself as a non-professional. I do have the same style of working on my V70's.... Everything on my private drive way, for the P3 platform your channel is one of the best👍
Thx my friend. More to come this summer. Serpentine belt and all rollers.
If you want original at a cheaper price buy Lemförder. The volvo tie rods are made by Lemförder, you can even see the tiny triangular logo on the boot and on the metal on the bottom side. Also I find it easier to remove tie rod ends from the knuckle by leaving the nut on loosely and hitting it with a hammer. Prevents things from flying everywhere too.
Lemforder is great, should be half the price of the Volvo part
lenkförder und TRW are original Volvo parts. Because car manufacturer, aren't parts manufacturer.
Thanks for the tip! Just bought mine for less than half the price with duty and shipping from the US. If I lived in US it would be quarter price.
Yup! I have to order one today. Lemförder is $25 vs the "Volvo" one at nearly $150. I'll try out the OE Lem version for THAT much of a difference. I'm sure it's totally fine.
Please, show how to change the belt with water pump in this engine (T6).
I'm waiting for this from over the year 😎
Great video as usual. For anyone without the rod splitter tool, you can screw on the top nut, and give the outer tie rod a good few hits from the top. It will pop right out.
3:38. I couldn't loosen that nut with a wrench and hammer, it was properly seized so applied torque using a jack. Pretty sketchy because it could have slipped and sent the wrench flying at 300mph but took it steady and it worked.
Eliminated 90% of my clunks and knocks.
Great vid, many thanks.
What we do in the driveway while our wives are inside doing whatever……
Hi you're doing a great job, the reason why i like your videos is because you are not a professional and dont have specialised tools as you said about yourself.👍
I agre👍👍👍Best videos for Volvo ever.
30:07 I like WD-40 but also try BreakFree CLP. Designed for weapons but many mechanics swear it's the best PENETRATING oil ever.
Your boot had split and lost the grease, destroying the joint. I gave up using Volvo stuff on these parts.
Volvo track rod, £95. Lemforder £30. I see no difference and I bet it will do 60K.
I chose to install the OE Lemforder parts both sides which are 5 times cheaper than Genuine Volvo at FCP Euro. And the guarantee is for life!
when i saw the grinder come out, the only thing that comes to mind is all volvos are only worth $500.
Hi! Can you please mention again the web page where you found the right torque for the tie rod?
And if you strike with a hammer on the side of the knuckle and not the tie rod end nut, it will pop right out also.
My 2008 V70 just got new tires and 4 wheel alignment. Alignment was $100 here in Florida. I have never had to replace tie rod ends on three Volvos. Good job, thanks Yuri.
Your content is so excellent. Seriously helped me out with the blower motor install, lift gate struts and transmission flush. But I had no issue with the removing the tie rod with just a few quick hammers to remove the old one.
Thanks for your excellent and very useful P3 videos. I just did tie rods along with lower control arms and stabilizer bar links on my 2008 XC70 with 180k miles. They were all original and in great shape. To get the old tie rods out, I just put the old nut back on a few turns and then hammered it out with a 4 lb hammer. It helps to knock the side of the socket on the knuckle a few times to loosen things up. It took about 8-10 medium strikes to free it. Pretty easy. The control arms were a challenge but after multiple failed attempts I realized the secret sequence to the puzzle and then it was a piece of cake. After all was done, despite counting the turns on the tie rods, the alignment was so bad as to be scary to drive. So I manually adjusted the inner tie rod on one side enough to be able to drive down the road using the tape measure method for toe in (measure distances between front and rears of the two front tires). Car feels new now. I forgot how good these P3s feel when new. Outstanding car.
@MountainCat I’m doing control arms and can’t figure out the best sequence. Any advice?
Hey Yuri, the real pain is to replace the struts! I built the special tool (999 7310) and still can't remove without being destroyed the lower ball joint, even using the method from VIDA. The top of the nut is crushed, but stupid ball joint doesn't come out! I don't know why stupid designers choose the struts without lower bracket. Most Volvo's have regular design.
I think the problem was ford's heavy involvement in the design. It's really clear in some of the repairs that volvos "easy repair" option got overruled by ford's "cheaper to modulate" design.
We're doing this on a friend's Volvo this weekend in Elmwood (Winnipeg) - You should drop by and drink some beers with us!
Too busy ! Thx for the invite! Join us Sep 8 12:00 west side IKEA Parking Lot for Volvo meet.
@@volvosweden are SAABs allowed?
@Pixelology Of course! Bring it!!!!!!
Could you buy yourself a P2 XC70 just so that I can use those vids to repair and maintain mine ;D Well done. AGAIN!
Русский чтоле?)
Listen, you've already replaced the accessory belt. Because somehow I can't see it without removing the air conditioning pump. Or there is some other way that I don't know about. I have to deal with it because I have a belt to replace and one of the rollers. Because you probably did not insert the movie from such an exchange.
Bravo . Devi pero' mettere un link dove acquistare i pezzi di ricambio che sostituisci . Grazie .
Its a tough job when everything has corroded a little and started to seize in place.
It was a bit for sure. Just did the same on my 2006 V60 T5.
@@volvosweden Thanks for posting the videos! between your videos and SiRobbs's I've managed to sort out so many things with my P3 S60.
Great video. I got a bit discouraged by the issues with getting the bolts loose and the puller tool which i don't have. A little heat and a sledgehammer works too and makes this a quick job. Thank you sir!
wheel alignment everywhere on earth green is good. I have done it once in Germany: on green bad, on the middle line acceptable :)) really amazing. and the car was indeed amazing. camber noting to be done not that bad 0,2...
Wheel alignment in Netherlands 65 euro by professionals
4:10 your one was easy compared to mine. I couldn't get mine loose by tapping the wrench like that. One one side of the vehicle it was easy to push the wrench with my leg but it was possible on the other side. Ended up smashing my hand into the ABS wire bracket on the strut and got a pretty deep cut from that.
Very informativ and easy to understand when explained so in details as well as good filming
Great job as allways! I'm going to change the same parts on mine. But i'll ask a friend that has a lift and proper tools! So good video!!!!
Hi thanks for sharing all your tips, always enjoy watching your videos.
Nicely done thanks for all of your videos
Where to get Vida information ?
Vida can be bought/pirated easy online, along with Chinese cloned dice units.
Could not type the answer you got.
Very good video, as usual. A couple of well-aimed blows on the spider had also gone well instead of using the puller. If you ever want to remove the ball joint without damaging it, which can happen with the tool.
Your Camber angle is just outside the tolerance value and is as your mechanic said no danger to drive with.
To me breaking the tie rod ball joint free with the hammer is such satisfaction. Even the ball joints on the 700/900 series still puts a smile on my face knowing the neighbours will hear the 2lb hammer ringing out in the street.
@@monkehbitch haha 😂
You can't adjust camber or caster settings on P3 chassis, only toe-in, correct?
On most stock cars only the toe can be adjusted. I bought K-MAC camber/caster strut mounts and Meganracing camber and Hardrace toe arms for the rear for full adjustability. I have a bit of negative camber on my XC60 so the 9.5” wide wheels fit under the fender.
Top in the world volvo man. Me Xc 90 R.
I learned a lot from your video thanks Bro
And again job well done Yuri. Thanks for sharing 👏
Have you replaced the Thermostat yet.
I have 2010 xc70 3.2. Keep popping "low oil level, I filled 1qt and 2weeks later pop again low oil level. Any idea?
Check underneath for any leaks and also check your brake booster pump.
Если бы включили мозг не попали бы на схождение...🤣
You saved me a lot of money, again. I think in total you already saved me 10.000€ over the years. Thank you so much.
Glad I am helping
Where do you do your alignment at? I was wondering if they have to do it a certain way
count the turns of the tie rod and transfer that many to the new. should get you very close. best bet with an alignment is just a local independent shop with a machine.
i searched everywhere but since you were a p3 and i have a p3 was hoping you could help me with installing a o2 sensor as i cant find any info on installing one via volvo or location where it was or is, assuming its before the converter
just get an o2 wrench, unscrew it, screw in the new one, tie the two cables together and pull the old one out the top, while also pulling the new connector up with it, clip it in, zip tie the wires away from the exhaust and good to go.
У меня на 300 000 такого нет.. что они с ней делали???
Great Job 👍
я улыбаюсь с вашей замены,это все делается намного проще!Посмеялся от души😂😂
Рад что вам весело. А что не так делал? Есть какие-то советы? Буду рад услышать и возьму во внимание. Спасибо.
@@volvosweden вы практические не пользуетесь пневмогайковертом,вся замена наконечников на двух колесах,занимает 30 минут с использованием гайковёрта!Наконечник зачищаете грубой щеткой(гайку на шарнире и на рулевой тяге)Брызгает каким нибудь средством для борьбы с ржавчиной,но не маслом,если не откручивается,режете гайку на шарнире или гайколомом ломаете,а если на тяге рулевой,то греет газом минуты 3 И мокрой тряпкой резко охлаждает(термо удар,откручивания 95 процентов гаек)если с первого раза не получилось то ещё раз и ещё,и сто процентов после третьего открутиться!При установке,обязательно смазать хотя бы маслом рулевую тягу и налить гр 5 в наконечник,чтобы в следующий раз было без проблем!С нагревом можно и на цапфе,если не выходит палец шарнира рулевого наконечника:бьете в сошку два резких удара молотком весом 900-1000 гр. И одеваете съёмник,и как правило,если сам не выпал после ударов,а это 90 процентов случаев,то стемником сниматься легко!Если вы эти процедуры примите во внимание,то менять в следующий раз будет проще и быстрее и пользуйтесь ударным гайковертом не стесняйтесь,это скорость и ваши руки будут целы и не устанете,потому что на земле не камильфо менять на корточках,я это делаю на подъёмнике,это занимает 15 минут сторона,даже если сильно Закис!Удачи в ваших начинаниях!
@@volvosweden пользуйтесь,если что-то новое узнали,мне не жалко,это мой опыт и не раз сбитые руки и порезанные пальцы!Удачи
@@volvosweden но как правило на Вольво,наконечники сами выходят легко при откручивании гайки шарнира!Если не выходит,то замена была давно😋
Не удавлен своей не профессиональности когда делаешь данную процедуру очень редко. Спасибо за ваше время что написали. Приму во внимание.
FIRST
And this is your only input? Sad.
@@monkehbitch Idk why you're so upset about it lol
@@GamerDud2003 because is it actually informative to you? No. You're just here to say first! Videos like this are informative, I bet you never even watched it either.
@@monkehbitch He's a gamer and probably about 17 years old! They have nothing to do but type First....makes me sick, how sad they can be, just to get a reaction.
@@centaurus5676 First of all I have literally no time to game anymore, second I’m not looking for a damn reaction, third you’re the one calling me sad? You’re the one who’s getting upset here.
100 000 km and Such problems? 🤔 😲 My volvo S80 has 150 000 and perfect condition.
Anyway good repair like always 👍
Tie rods are consumables. All due to condition of the roads. In the area of the UK I live in, some tie rods last 2-3 years tops.
Mine V60 still has got the first tie-rods (235.000 km / 146.000 mls) and still going. I'm driving in Holland with good/smooth roads.
@@Simon_van_Bentum
Holland... This is like driving at the table 😉
It’s the salt in the winter and rough roads summer and winter.
@@a.t.8297 Wales- UK. Hills, mountains, potholes and lunatics that park via touch on the kerbside! Lucky you in Holland!
Its best to do the inner tie rod ends too- The alignment shop will thank you! And much easier to replace. I always find hitting the knuckle with the hammer and not popping off the tie rod end with the tool more satisfying. Re-installing the new tie rod, I just jack up the tie rod and allow friction to do the work. I see that channel is still displaying your video. Did you get youtube to copyright strike them?
Hey. Lost the link. Thx for all the tips
@@volvosweden I'll resend the email