Golf Mk7 Single Mass Vs Dual Mass Clutch Sound Comparison (W/ Fluidampr)
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- Опубликовано: 8 окт 2024
- This is my attempt of a before and after clutch comparison of the noise we get when upgrading a MK7 with manual transmission to a single mass flywheel.
This is the day after my car was upgraded. I got the APR Stage 2 with APR downpipe, and a South Bend Stage 3 Daily clutch. And I had the Fluidampr installed just because it seemed like a good idea.
The reason for the upgrade was because I upgraded to APR Stage II. I know the stock clutch will not hold up to the stage 2 tune, so I decided to replace it before I had problems, rather than waiting for the inevitable problems.
I had 50k miles on the stock clutch, and I had APR stage 1 91 octane (low torque) since around 2,000 miles. I got the tune in late 2016, and from what I can remember, the published numbers at the time were 290ft/lbs and 269hp.
The new clutch is the South Bend Stage 3 Daily. I also had a Fluidampr installed at the same time.
Please let me know how you think this compares to a single mass without Fluidampr. This isn't a perfect test, but hopefully the comparison makes it easier for someone considering the upgrade to know what it will sound like.
My conclusion is that the noise is really not a big deal. It kind of comes and goes as well. I don't hear it at all when I'm in the car; it's literally the day after I had it installed, and I'm trying to decide if I actually notice it!
M golf r 7.5 makes no noise at idle, but off throttle in 2/3 gear it sounds like a cross between a box of bolts and straight cut gears. Also a lot more vibration at low speeds accelerating in all gears. Upside is it doesn’t slip and I’ve lost a fair chunk of spinning mass. Everything is a compromise….
Thank you for the video, I thought that some turbo heatshield was cracked and ratling.
So I came here because I replaced my clutch and flywheel. Stage 1 clutch with a 9lb flywheel and it freaked me out when I herd the noise. I kept asking my self did I do something wrong everything is to spec I didn't forget to put something on. Horrible experience. This video actually put my mind at ease. But I do have a question when accelerating do you hear it still cause I do.
I have a ‘16 GTI, Stage 3 Southbend Clutch & Stage 2 APR Tune. For me, when I’m at a stop, the sound goes away when I push in the clutch pedal, then comes back when I take my foot off the clutch pedal (clutch fully engaged). So, when I’m pulling away in first gear, the sound goes away while the clutch is disengaged, but comes back after fully engaged in 1st gear. I only hear the sound at low RPMs (somewhere below 2.5k RPMs, but I’m not exactly sure)
@@axelognar8034 yeah same here when the clutch is compress it goes away. At this point I have learned to live with it. I for sure will be going with a new set up when I get more HP
@@Je_luna I’ve been perusing forums trying to learn more about the rattling, and from what I read it’s completely normal for a single mass flywheel to cause a rattling sound like that
@@axelognar8034 yeah trust me I looked up videos i looked up forums aswell. I dont like it but but for now I'm ok with it. I atleast have the security of knowing my clutch won't be going out anytime soon.
@@Je_luna Hi guys, same here, just done a smf on my saab 2.8 v6, sounds really bad on idle and most gears up to 2000 rpm under acceleration, have like a grinding noise, , i'll take it as this is normal? cheers
Thank you so much for this niche Video! :)
Great vid. Thank you.
Man that rattling is pretty bad. Makes it sound like a diesel!
Diesel sounds amazing!
Thanks for sharing this information!
Thanks for the video. Do you find that you need to raise your engine RPM higher to achieve clutch step off from a stop after going to a single mass flywheel?
I do not notice any change due to weight of the flywheel, except the engine does rev a little faster. All that talk about needing more RPM to start is worry from people who don't know what they are talking about. The energy stored in the stock flywheel is not enough to move the car very far, if at all. Therefore making the flywheel lighter will not make a noticeable difference.
What matters to me is that now the car shifts like all the other manual cars I have driven. Gone is the annoying "jolt" when the clutch fully engages. Now engagement is super smooth. Almost too sooth. If I did it again, I would go for a slightly more aggresive clutch disk, like the South Bend Endurance.
Thanks for the input fredy. Debating whether to install a LW flywheel on my brz. I was hoping the fluidampr would help with the chatter but it didn’t seem like it did in your case. I do believe the fluidampr did help with the vibrations, of course this is all subjective.
Thanks for the vid. Helpful!
Any issues with this setup? I ordered a Spec clutch with a SMF but all of these reports of crank walk (which has happened with stock clutches and DMF) got me worried.
Look at that, he's even sipping a soda.
It sounds like this I think because you haven't change the clutch pump...sachs doesn't have it inside packet but it's necessary to change it I think cause it's piece of this conversion
Try ta sound test with the A/C on. My 2015 Eco mustang sounds horrible in neutral with the A/C on.
Thanks for the video. I noticed in a reply to another comment you said that the engagement is really smooth with the single mass, and doesn't have the annoying jolt upon full engagement that the dual mass has. This is something that bugs me also in my car (mk4 platform audi a3) and I too am considering changing to a single mass flywheel. One thing that concerns me is the clutch pedal feel, not the weight of it, but the distance over which the clutch engages. Is the engagement 'profile' at the pedal with the single mass similar or the same as it was with the dual mass? Thanks
I think your question is all about the clutch disk. The flywheel doesn't change how "grabby" the clutch engagement is.
My clutch is the "Daily" kit with a continuous ring of "organic" clutch material. It is the same type of disk the car comes with. This will feel very "normal".
Sometimes think I should have gotten the "Endurance" kit for a slightly more aggressive/ grabby clutch material. But if I had gone that route, it might also be annoying sometimes...
Point is, the clutch disk is super important. Another guy commented, and it turned out he got the wrong clutch disk.
Beware of "puck" clutches and any clutch made with metalic wear material. These will engage much faster due to having higher friction. The fewer the pucks, the harder they grab. These are the ones that feel like an on/off switch. They are designed for stuff like drag racing.
OK, so I just had a slave cylinder go bad in my 2006 GTI before that it wasn’t shifting the greatest so I figured I’d have to replace the clutch the clutch the guy at the shop ordered is a stage two clutch/Dmf kit … when I got the car it was already built. The guy at the shop said there was a SMF already in there but he figured it was a cheaper stage two clutch … now I’m going too stage two dmf ? Will this affect performance and how so ? .
What make are you using, reason I ask is that there are some really cheap nasty smf kits out there. There is two makes that have built in dampers to the clutch plate and use a different clutch plate material. On all the one's I have read they could not tell any real difference and they did not rattle like yours.
Thanks!
It make me a little uncomfortable. But yeah when inside the car with windows up you can't hear it.
Nice video! By the way here in austria our petrol octane starts at 95 up to 100 octanes..💪
I can buy 118 octane
It's the same octane, EU and US have different standards for rating the Petrol. We call it Gas for some weird reason as well, don't ask. Lol
I prefer 100% ethanol. More "octanes" and is knock free.
Hey hows the car holding up. My car is in the shop now getting the same stuff put in. The stage 2 dkm smf clutch and the fluidampr
Please let me know how that one sounds and feels. I’m trying to buy a clutch right now and I’m considering that one
@@rambow70 feels great. it is noisier. Honestly spend the money and get the rsr clutch. it works with the dmf. you can def hear your gears spinning with the smf under 3 rpm. If i need another clutch ill prob go for one that works with the dmf. Gotta say the smf makes rev matching so easy and a fun compared to the dmf.
@@DamedFilms Yea I think a new DMF is like $200 more than getting a dampener and the clutches are about the same. I just really don't want the noise. I'm sure your SMF more responsive though!
@@rambow70 the dampner is for vibrations in your engine not your trans
@@DamedFilms Right but I've heard that the smf causes more vibrations/shock to the motor which the fluid damper helps combat to save your crank from possible crank walk. But if I get another DMF I wouldn't need the fluid damper. From a cost angle while the DMF is more than a SMF for a kit, it actually isn't that much more if I had to price in a fluid damper.
Do 1 liter shock prof oil the rest with with original oil or redline oil
I've changed my duel mass flywheel few months back, I noticed right away there is no smooth engagement i feel like it clamp on or off and not smooth like the duel mass? Is this just my car or does single piece flywheel do that?
I don't think this is the flywheel. Most likely it is the new clutch plate.
What kind of clutch plate did you use? Mine is the "Daily" version, which is an "organic" material, solid disk (not puck style). I kind of wish I had gone to the "Endurance", which would grab a little harder and feel a bit more aggressive. The "Daily" is super smooth and doesn't feel aggressive on clutch engagement.
Yeah I literally just finish my clutch this weekend and took it out for a drive. I felt the same thing. Specially going in reverse is a whole new feel
Was it worth it?
Hi ,Fredy I have fitted single mass to tdi t4 2.5 ,I used special oil to minimise rattle but am interested in fluid damper as well could you send pic or details
Arcan is this you?
sounds like my mondeo st tdci with smf
Was the A/C on or off? The chatter is supposedly louder with A/C on.
Climate control was in "auto". It wasn't super hot out. If you want to notice chatter, park next to a cement wall....all the car's noises are amplified, including chatter. But most of the chatter was there with the stock flywheel too! I still don't know if the fluidampr makes any difference, but overall I am still happy with the upgrade!
Has anything else worked to kill some of the rattle?
you have to tune in a higher idle is what I'm thinking
Ya i might do a clutch but skip the single mass for my R. Sounds awful.hah
Stock Flywheel does not go bad. It's just the stock clutch.
New flywheel is lighter tho
My stock dual mass flywheel did fail at a 100k km, replaced it with a single mass! I had A LOT of play in the dual mass flywheel and was making a lot of noise.
Eww that would get annoying. Don’t they make a performance clutch without the chatter?
I was wanting to know that as well. I don't even know that it's running after returning from letting it warm up for a minute or two.
The sound will quite some after about 500miles of use. And if you use a thicker trans fluid. (ACCORDING TO ECS TUNING) It will quite up some also
Do they have a decibel level chart to show the difference between stock dual mass clutch and single mass clutch provided, that would help considerably for those of us whom would prefer to not have a car that sounds broken.
@@jimmywoo7875 you Sure? Plan on changing on Astra j vxr to an 75w85 LS oil..
Genuine question, why does it sound that it’s rattling a lot now? Or am I wrong?
Because the dual mass flywheel has springs inside it that absorb the vibrations of the engine. So now there’s no vibration absorption as the engine at idle isn’t much smooth and the gearbox makes some noise
Mate that isn't a good comparison if you added down pipes to the car....
I will race you
did this race ever happen