My wife noted "Ray can't be a real mechanic, because he doesn't doesn't swear and throw his tools across the workshop nearly often enough!". We both had a chuckle and then a small sigh and watched the rest of the video quietly.
In my younger days I would get mad throw tools cuss like a sailor(having a father and grandfather in the Navy I was very good a cussing) it took me several years to figure out that the madder I became the harder it was to do what I was trying to do, I finally figured out if I would walk away calm down for a bit whatever was giving me problems would just fall into place.
That's a great idea for future content: "Rainman Ray's Out Takes and Bloopers" Cussing, throwing tools, rocking back and forth on the floor in the corner of the shop, and accidentally spraying his face with BrakeKleen.
No need to get frustrated and throw tools when you've got the right tool for every task. It sucks when all you've got are the basic tools. I never knew some of his tools existed!
There's a reason he does not cus or throw his tools around, he makes videos on RUclips and he is a professional, I love watching him and learning from him as well
The guy who taught me the trade said if "it's easy to get out of the way then get it out of the way". That advice served me well over the years. And Cudos to the owner of the Elantra, that car has been well cared for.
I love watching Ray, skill, good detective skills and excellent intelligent conversation even if it’s all one sided. It’s refreshing to hear someone speak properly.
Man, I'm not mechanically inclined in any way, but I really enjoy watching you take things apart, fix them, and then put them back together. I don't know why it's so satisfying. Great stuff as usual, Ray!
I think Ray should do a monthly "Special" video where he does a super clip of all the brake clean he sprays. I'll bet he can get 10 minutes per month of just spraying brake clean.
I worry about Ray. Brake cleaner contains toluene which is what get paint huffers high; spray brake cleaner VOC is about 25% toulene (highest concentration appears to be VOC in metallic spray paint but the actual amount is not made available) and it melts your brain. Even with good ventilation the amount of brake cleaner Ray uses would get an elephant high.
I like how Ray demonstrates his consistent diligence as a master mechanic. He inspects, as a matter of HABIT, every part he pulls out to perform a repair.
I'd like to make a note of something I think people are taking for granted. Time is money, especially in the knuckle-draggin field of mechanics. Every time Ray pauses to explain something, it costs him time and money. Ray, thank you for sharing the world of a mechanic, I appreciate it. That said, don't think I'm gonna stop giving you crap. Be safe Brother
Also, thanks for adding the entertaining bits to the video, like the dramatic music when introducing the Brake Cleaner can, as well as the stop sign and the burnt down shed at the end of this video, matching our feelings of not being able to see the completion today, even if this episode is sort of a 2-part deal already, with the delays and holidays inbetween the start and the end part. Good job anyway. Far better than what I would have time to throw together if I were to create a video for my employer. Oh well. See you later.
After 13 years in a shop I work for a fleet company at a desk job and I play your videos and south main auto in the background. Makes me feel like I never left the shop! Thanks for the great content!
My '13 Elantra, just like that one, has 167K miles, and still looks like new inside. I sold my previous Hyundai with 319K miles, and it still ran like new.
Glad you're back at work and feeling better Ray! Fun stuff these videos....learn some, laugh a lot, hopefully no one gets hurt...and the phone doesn't ring too much! haha. Look forward to the next video!
Cool. I like the way you took out the pulley bolts via spinning the pulley. It reminds me of how we would install pedals at the bike shop. Just start the threads and backpedal (on both sides, as left pedal has left thread- for safety)
Just love the fire at the end… a nice poetic way to show how the supply chain mess is breaking everything. I’ve been waiting 12 months for some IT equipment.
It's normal for the cam to be able to be turned a little in the dephaser after the engine is stopped. During cranking the dephaser will move to one end of its range and lock in place until there is sufficient oil pressure; you just performed that operation manually with the wrench. None of that means it's broken but rattling on startup is a common failure with dephasers, they can get so bad it sounds like a diesel instead of a gas engine.
This car has been sitting in my drive-way for over a year (2013.) Thank you for showing that dowel, I was stuck on not being able to get the timing cover off and haven't touched it since. Also thank you for pointing out the links, I was going off of the markings. My ex was driving my car when she said it just stopped running at a red light. I know it's a compression issue because when I used the tester the first time all came back 30psi, I saw the chain skip or something when I had the cover off, tested again and it was 60psi. This car running does something around 120psi so hopefully I'm on the right path with the timing.
Finally able to watch a Rainman Ray's video after nearly 3 days of power outage due to a big storm! Feels amazing to be back in these mechanical adventures
Always amazes me seeing a 100Km+ vehicle that looks so well cleaned and looked after. (I'm referring to the clean engine bay and good condition interior)
That chain driver attachment looked well worn and loved. I especially liked that it appeared to be plastic coated so it would be less likely to scratch or break stuff when jammed into a tight apace
For 4 decades my friends and family know that any repair I do to cars, electronics, etc - I will have a bolt or screw left over. But all repairs have worked. I have been nicknamed "one screw loose" I enjoy it as what I've fixed has remained fixed.
This is a big job. I'm just getting started on the video but this is definitely beyond me at this point. Looks routine for Ray though. Maybe it's engine 101.
Good on you for being honest. Big is relative, of course. It is, OTOH, one of those jobs you have to do exactly right, because the alignment of the marks and chain has to be right on. On some pulleys you can zip tie the chains to the pulleys because they have holes in them. On this one, another creative solution is needed. Maybe some sort of locking pliers with 'nose extensions' and padding to avoid damage.
My wife has an 08 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 3.3 V6. it has the death rattle at cold start too. Only problem is, I replaced both hydraulic chain tensioners, all the guides, VVT's and everything in there while I had it apart. Still rattles! I believe it has oil delivery issues because the previous owner did not believe in oil changes. I cleaned everything I could access while the timing chains, oil pan, intake and VVT,s were out/off. Didn't work. It has helped running Seafoam in the oil and changing it every 2000-2500 miles. Lots of coked oil and crap in the oil filters.
@@fredwalker839 It runs great otherwise. No metal or aluminum in the filters, just flakes of old oil snd crap from getting cleaned out! Never uses a drop of oil and has lots of pep
I rebuilt a transmission in an impala. Got 2 valve body bolts swapped and instant carnage as soon as car was put in gear. The longer bolt hit the stator, sheared off the bolt and wrecked the stator. One of those days you want to beat your head on a wall.
Some rattle in VVT phasors is normal for a few seconds until oil pressure is up when the engine has set long enough for the oil to drain out of the phasors. The rattle is just the phasors hitting their end of travel stops until they fill so the computer can fine tune the timing. It is important to use the correct recommended weight of oil on any VVT engine.
Nissan SR20 are notorious for it when using the specified oil. One the customers from my old work ran 20w50 Pennzoil in his, no issues for well over 150k on second hand import motor.
This guys videos have saved me tons of money....how he gets to teh problem just by sight and sound just spent over 600 dollars on teh shop using the parts cannon when this video told me exactly what the problem is
Interesting video... my wife's 2011 Elantra sedan has been making this noise on startup for years. I've always assumed it was simply the tensioner and that, if the noise goes away after a second, it's probably harmless for the most part. I can't see doing such a major repair unless the symptoms get worse -- such as the noise lasts longer than a second or two, or if it comes back after the engine has been running awhile (that is, not just on startup). When that happens, I had always planned to dump the car. Sure won't buy a Hyundai again.
when i put the belt on everything was lined up but doing an extra spin knocked it out line so after some spinning nope, so i removed tensioner and grabbed the crank and turned it so the dot would line up and put it back together, (the tensioner i used a clamp and sqeezed it in and put the pin back in , in short the car runs fine. have a good day ray .
It dosent mater Wether it's one or two, it's reality, not everything goes to plan, great job, you make it look easy, all the best to you and your loved ones
Very clean engine compartment considering the age and mileage! edit: you probably already finished the repair by now, and this comment is not so much for you but others doing these: turn the engine a couple complete turns and re-check the marks just to be safe.
interesting observation made at 27:14. The timing dots were lined up but the lines on the face of the cogs were off a few teeth, and then by magic it was fine at 27:34. That's the beauty of editing I guess!
Nothing to hide here - Probably just cutting out finagling the chain, hitting the camera 10 more times with a wrench and getting everything in position. He even said at 16:36 "That stuff moved - that's okay". So he was aware of it and didn't need to hide stuff.
Just a little rotation of the engine is all it took to line the horizontal marks up. You could tell by looking at it that was the case. As long as the marks on the sprockets/phasers line up with the marked links on the chain, it will be fine. When the engine is clocked to exact TDC, the horizontal marks will be in line. My only concern looking at this was the slack in the bottom of the chain around the crank sprocket. If the engine is turned clockwise after this, no harm no foul - everything will be fine but if the crank is turned CCW, then timing will be off a tooth.
@@graken22 Tensioner has nothing to do with it in this instance - if the crank is moved clockwise, the marked link on the chain which is engaged with the mark on the sprocket, will remain in that location and as the crank is turned to the left (CW), the slack will disappear and then the tensioner will do its thing. If the crank is turned CCW, the same thing will happen but the crank will be off a tooth on the cam timing with respect to the cams. This is because there is an extra link worth of slack in the bottom of the crank. Turn one direction, things work out well - turn the other, things don't.
I've always imagined that engine part I am attempting to remove was the 1st part placed on the assembly line then every other part was added around it. This can cause sadistic fantasy of kidnaping the design engineers and placing them in in a poorly lit uncooled garage with a 12 piece hand wrench set and two screwdrivers. Terms of release involves replacement of the surrounded part that I was currently struggling with.
I agree if they had to do what you're saying maybe when they're designing stuff and coming up with brilliant ideas they might think about the guy on the other end and
Another enjoyable vlog, Ray. Thanks. But don't understand what happened to the check engine/service light diagnostics? Although you had a hunch, how did you determine to go open heart surgery at the get go? :-?
hopefully i'm not too late... i'm an old Kia tech, most of our manuals said to install our belts and chains clockwise starting with the exhaust cam. that puts all of your slack on the adjuster side. of course they gave us cam locks and such but most were plastic and sucked. several aftermarket cam locks worked better but you seemed to manage it just fine without them. In the older Kia/Hyundai engines with timing belts, especially the 3.5L V6 engines, you could get all the cams lined up and wrap the crank, install the tensioner, LOOKS GOOOOD. then rotate the engine a full turn (twice on the crank) and it would be off 1 tooth every time. We finally found there were four 12mm threaded holes behind the cams worked great to make our own cam locks that keep the cams from moving. B2 exhaust was the only one that the threaded hole was in the middle of the cam hole instead of on a bar. We made a bent metal bracket that "filled" the hole in the cam face and worked great. Never had an issue after that. Also, if you deal with timing belts on those old 3.5L Sorentos, it isn't work fighting the radiator and condenser, drain both and pull the entire core support and you can yank the radiator and condenser and cooling fans out as a unit and have open access to the front of the engine. Knocked a timing belt time from 4 hours to just over an hour and a half. Love your videos! i miss teching... just don't miss the body aches (cuz they are still with me :( lol)
Took the garage 3days to get the timeing chain kit for mine and then 5hrs to do glad I did take it they found a lot wrong with it and the bolt that holds on the harmonic balancer was going to fall out.
that cleaning spray you use cuts the mustard for me and I'm sure others sad I know I should try to get out more, that said I enjoy all of your videos PLEASE keep them coming
I thought I was going to have to do this on my car and I watched a similar video. The other guy had the engine out of the car and it looked pretty straightforward. Once I see the repair in the car, it doesn’t look as easy. Turns out it was a loose heat shield and all is well.
Those Hyundai GDI engines are notorious for that rattle noise on start up. It goes away in like .5 seconds after start up. Even after repairing the timing chain tensioner, it'll come back in just a few months. Hyundai calls it a "character noise". Oil pressure is needed to make the tensioner work. When the engine has sat for a while the oil has settled. So you can't really get rid of that sound in a hyundai GDI engine.
Hi... Can you share a link where Hyundai calls it a "character noise"? Or is that just something you've heard? My wife's 2011 Elantra has been making this noise for years and I'm hesitant to fix something that doesn't need to be fixed. Just plan to live with it and never buy Hyundai again. Or dump the car if the noise gets worse. These 1.8 motors aren't GDI, by the way. Thanks.
@@WilliamBrown-vf9ou I work for Hyundai and rebuild these engines in a day from the block up. is it a rattle that goes away after 2 seconds or a knocking that goes away after 30 seconds? different issues.
@@TormentedPenguin, hi, thanks for your reply. The rattle lasts about 1-2 seconds on initial morning startup. From my research, I think it's the timing chain tensioner. There are no other symptoms. I change the oil (with synthetic and high-quality filters) myself more frequently than required, so I think the engine is healthy. It's been making this rattle for years and I'm inclined to live with it until there are other symptoms. I know there is a risk of it skipping timing, but I'm hoping that risk is fairly low and that I'll get warning before anything bad happens!
Spare parts will get more and more scarce as the supply chains around the world are heavily disrupted. It will get to a stage where you wont be able to repairs with new parts,they will all be second hand parts soon. Sht is about to hit the fan real soon.
I put mine in an old coffee can with 13 leftover bolts from other projects. I make sure to kick the can over at least 3 times and lose at least one in a pail of oil or floor drain. That way when you put it back together it takes 14.3 minutes per bolt to re-install each part. But I bet you guys aren’t ASE Certified KeyBoard Mechanics like me 🙄
@@jaydegelder2964 I always have a lot of cardboard and sheets of paper left from ordering stuff online, so there's no reason for me to do it another way. If a lot needs to be taken apart or the project takes a long time, the sheets of cardboard can also be shelved for convenience. This way i never lose anything or forget where it belongs. Can also scribble reminders on the cardboard like torque specs, order of installation and whatnot. You should really try it. It's super simple and prevents a lot of tedious micro-managing.
These engines are a toy compared to others.. I have rebuilt about 50 of them from the block up.. Every time i have it timed, I look back thinking I forgot something because it was too easy. Granted, I pull them from the car before I rebuild them.
I was thinking the same thing " How does this guy keep track of all those different bolts , nuts and screws??? " I saw when he took apart a whole dash apart and to me he was just letting them fall on the floor and I was thinking , man I could never do what he does !!! The times I do work on my own vehicle I always end up with extras. ( after everything is well , sort of , in it's place. )
I believe that's the infamous piston slap Hyundai recalled. I also swapped the tensioner in mine and didn't notice much difference. Still get the cold start slap but we're nearing 290k miles so no complaints.
40+ years of plastic bits in the engine, 40+ years of chemical research, and still everything becomes brittle after 6 months of operation, or stiff and unwilling to work as intended.
back in the days they made quality. now its quantity. they make money on parts not the actual car. you wont see companys going bankrupt like Kreidler did because they made their product too well and didnt sell parts. i know its just a moped but they handed out silver and gold pins to owners having machines going 50.000 - 100.000 km without anything changed. a honorable way to go down. and those small engines could take a beating. in 1968 they set a 110 mph topspeed with a small 50 ccm engine.
@@MrLarsgren Yes I used to dream of getting one of those as a teenager but had to "make do" with trying everything I could to make my Yamaha FS1E go faster (made 70mph down a big hill)
@@mx_nana_banana "Planned obsolescence" very rarely has any meaning in terms of cars. Can you point to any component in a car that's purposely designed to fail after a set period? No, you can't, because there aren't any. The same component will last a longer or shorter period in any given vehicle due to all manner of factors completely outside the manufacturer's control.
I broke the harmonic balancer washer on a spectra, and this cars looks to be the exact same. I probably over impacted, but it was made out of like die cast toy car metal.
Parts delay a victim of supply chain issues perhaps? I personally would have liked to learn more on what to look for in assessing the faulty phazer. It would be helpful for me.
Shit the $ lights ON🧐 .As a Diesel technician I also leave all bolts with the removed items, It saves a lot of time screwing around trying to figure out what length bolts should be used, If you don't care then Your going to run into Problems, Also sometimes you'll have 5 Machines apart waiting for parts this makes it even more important 👍 You are SO lucky Not to have to deal with Hardly any Rust on that machine, Because up here in the Snow belt things with over 150,000miles can be a little RUSTY at times 🤓.
Sounds like the typical Hyundai Tick. A lot of these engines tick cold because of piston slap and it slowly gets worse over time. Once they start burning oil it's time to consider a new engine, or at least a rebuild with new pistons and bored 0.02 over. Of course it goes away once the engine warms up. You should hear it when its -20C out.
I would hate to know how much you've invested in tools, I've seen you use a few that I didn't even know existed till now, especially the fancy handy dandy tool you had to hold the power steering pully in place, that seemed way better than a screwdriver or a punch which is what I would usually use when I forgot to break the bolts loose(typically about half the time)
Most techs @ this level have $50-$100K in tools. Ya, you can deduct the costs on Income Tax... Once they exceed 3% of gross. Ya, that makes the Fed Gov't an uninvested partner in your work. Ain't It Grand !
@@unclegreybeard3969 Yup, they are called the same thing here in the US, even my great grandfather had a few on his farm (he passed in 2006 at 108) and my grandfather had them... And even I have one. Really versatile tool and not just for a mechanic. (Jar lids beware!)
@@unclegreybeard3969 That was my first thought when I saw it but it was different than one I had, if that's what it actually was then color me impressed I never once thought to use it that way.
@@peted5217 By the time I quit turning wrenches for a living I had somewhere in the neighborhood of 75k invested in my tools, my oldest son followed in my footsteps and became a ASS oops I meant ASE certified technician so I passed along most of my tools to him to help get a better start than I did.
We ended up getting someones old factory slide pins for the brakes on the car i did the other day...lol. open package , rusted bolts and werent even the same ones. Added another hour to the job because they don't check their returns for store credit or whatever and just out returns back on the shelf
I would love some running commentary about the build style/quality of the different makes that you are servicing. Jesus, that timing chain cover looked like it was 30lbs... a solid casting o_o. So many bolts... soooo manyyyy. The alternator adjustment serpentine belt, not a tensioner. I think it was another Hyundai you did that still had V-belts, but was a 2000something.
To help keep track of bolts and nuts. When I can, I put the bolts and nuts back in the spot came from (with whatever was in the way removed).. Of course there are cases where that is not practical.
Jeez that engine is clean on the inside compared to my 2011 prius with 279k on it. Did the head gasket recently and the sludge was thick. I know since we owned it the oil was changed on time and had just come due for a oil change when I did the head gasket. I used a case of brake cleaner and several cans of oven cleaner on the head, valve cover and timing chain cover as well as 4+ rolls of the blue paper towels. Cleaned what I could get to then used a detergent additive when I put everything back together and let the engine run for a while with a new oil filter. After about 30 minutes of run time I changed the oil to royal purple oil with a new wax oil filter and some leave in sludge removing additive. In 1 week I went over 600 miles. Less than a month I'm at over 1500 miles. When I hit 3000 miles I will be doing another oil change with royal purple oil and another with filter and another bottle of sludge away. Then I will change the oil and filter every 5000 miles. Every oil change I do myself cost me almost $100. Expensive but since I started using royal purple my fuel mileage has gotten better. I'm talking from 30 mpg to 40mpg now. Big difference
My wife noted "Ray can't be a real mechanic, because he doesn't doesn't swear and throw his tools across the workshop nearly often enough!". We both had a chuckle and then a small sigh and watched the rest of the video quietly.
the videos are edited. You don't see those.
In my younger days I would get mad throw tools cuss like a sailor(having a father and grandfather in the Navy I was very good a cussing) it took me several years to figure out that the madder I became the harder it was to do what I was trying to do, I finally figured out if I would walk away calm down for a bit whatever was giving me problems would just fall into place.
@@Brendan_Keyport-WA7BMK lol yeah makes sense.
That's a great idea for future content:
"Rainman Ray's Out Takes and Bloopers"
Cussing, throwing tools, rocking back and forth on the floor in the corner of the shop, and accidentally spraying his face with BrakeKleen.
No need to get frustrated and throw tools when you've got the right tool for every task. It sucks when all you've got are the basic tools. I never knew some of his tools existed!
Ray should make a channel called, How to do everything with one hand”. Endless possibilities!
Lol
@@lechatbotte. MacGyver
I've seen a porn movie with that title...
Florida man does everything thing one handed. He's just used to having a beer in his hand.
I need two hands for mine 😂😂
This car looks well cared for, inside clean, engine, clean. 168.000 miles pretty good.
There's a reason he does not cus or throw his tools around, he makes videos on RUclips and he is a professional, I love watching him and learning from him as well
The guy who taught me the trade said if "it's easy to get out of the way then get it out of the way". That advice served me well over the years.
And Cudos to the owner of the Elantra, that car has been well cared for.
judging by the wear on the cam lobes; seems like they missed few oil changed to me
@@tbirdguy76 I'd expect some wear at 160k, I was looking at the lack of sludge.
@@paulontheroad A remarkably clean engine especially the internals for an engine with that kind of mileage.
@@tbirdguy76 10-40,,, or $20.00 & no filter required, or don’t turn your back,,,I just put one on! LOL
I love watching Ray, skill, good detective skills and excellent intelligent conversation even if it’s all one sided. It’s refreshing to hear someone speak properly.
Man, I'm not mechanically inclined in any way, but I really enjoy watching you take things apart, fix them, and then put them back together. I don't know why it's so satisfying. Great stuff as usual, Ray!
You can become that way by taking stuff apart and putting it back together.
I think Ray should do a monthly "Special" video where he does a super clip of all the brake clean he sprays. I'll bet he can get 10 minutes per month of just spraying brake clean.
I do believe he has special turbo pressurized cans.
That's on his OnlyFans page 😆
I worry about Ray. Brake cleaner contains toluene which is what get paint huffers high; spray brake cleaner VOC is about 25% toulene (highest concentration appears to be VOC in metallic spray paint but the actual amount is not made available) and it melts your brain. Even with good ventilation the amount of brake cleaner Ray uses would get an elephant high.
How much would Ray use if he had to pay for it?😁
@@IdiotPosterBoy "You want another can of brake clean? That's gonna cost you $9.99"
I like how Ray demonstrates his consistent diligence as a master mechanic. He inspects, as a matter of HABIT, every part he pulls out to perform a repair.
I'd like to make a note of something I think people are taking for granted. Time is money, especially in the knuckle-draggin field of mechanics. Every time Ray pauses to explain something, it costs him time and money. Ray, thank you for sharing the world of a mechanic, I appreciate it. That said, don't think I'm gonna stop giving you crap. Be safe Brother
Also, thanks for adding the entertaining bits to the video, like the dramatic music when introducing the Brake Cleaner can, as well as the stop sign and the burnt down shed at the end of this video, matching our feelings of not being able to see the completion today, even if this episode is sort of a 2-part deal already, with the delays and holidays inbetween the start and the end part. Good job anyway. Far better than what I would have time to throw together if I were to create a video for my employer. Oh well. See you later.
We all know about supply issues and non-existent/incorrect part supplies. 1 Part / 2 part video we are all here for you Ray..... You Rock
Supply issues can kiss my a** lol; I've been waiting almost a month now for a damn head stud kit.
These parts are on a boat from Korea
@@RustyZipper mine are machined in Canada;seemingly shippied by way of korea perhaps.
After 13 years in a shop I work for a fleet company at a desk job and I play your videos and south main auto in the background. Makes me feel like I never left the shop! Thanks for the great content!
That engine looks incredibly clean inside for it’s mileage
My '13 Elantra, just like that one, has 167K miles, and still looks like new inside. I sold my previous Hyundai with 319K miles, and it still ran like new.
Glad you're back at work and feeling better Ray! Fun stuff these videos....learn some, laugh a lot, hopefully no one gets hurt...and the phone doesn't ring too much! haha.
Look forward to the next video!
Cool. I like the way you took out the pulley bolts via spinning the pulley. It reminds me of how we would install pedals at the bike shop. Just start the threads and backpedal (on both sides, as left pedal has left thread- for safety)
I'm only here to watch massive quantities of brake cleaner being used. This is a good video.
I feel like Ray is my teacher in mechanic work. Thanks Doctor Ray!
I agree very good at explaining exactly what he's doing showing you
Just love the fire at the end… a nice poetic way to show how the supply chain mess is breaking everything. I’ve been waiting 12 months for some IT equipment.
It's normal for the cam to be able to be turned a little in the dephaser after the engine is stopped. During cranking the dephaser will move to one end of its range and lock in place until there is sufficient oil pressure; you just performed that operation manually with the wrench. None of that means it's broken but rattling on startup is a common failure with dephasers, they can get so bad it sounds like a diesel instead of a gas engine.
This car has been sitting in my drive-way for over a year (2013.) Thank you for showing that dowel, I was stuck on not being able to get the timing cover off and haven't touched it since. Also thank you for pointing out the links, I was going off of the markings.
My ex was driving my car when she said it just stopped running at a red light. I know it's a compression issue because when I used the tester the first time all came back 30psi, I saw the chain skip or something when I had the cover off, tested again and it was 60psi. This car running does something around 120psi so hopefully I'm on the right path with the timing.
I love how I feel like I’m fixing these cars too! I might quit my job and be a technician.
Impressive Ray! You knew exactly what it was without your scanner. The mark of a true mechanic!!!!!
Ray you are the best mechanic I've seen on U Tube. You go above and beyond to make it right for the customer. A GOLD star for you man !!!
Finally able to watch a Rainman Ray's video after nearly 3 days of power outage due to a big storm! Feels amazing to be back in these mechanical adventures
That sucks..
That's a super clean well maintained engine with 162K. Nice work on this one Ray.
Mine is at 80k and looks way worse
Excellent - a true multi-skilled mechanic
When I see a video from Ray, I press the like and save buttons. I know it's going to be a good one......
Always amazes me seeing a 100Km+ vehicle that looks so well cleaned and looked after. (I'm referring to the clean engine bay and good condition interior)
No road salt or sand in Florida.
That chain driver attachment looked well worn and loved. I especially liked that it appeared to be plastic coated so it would be less likely to scratch or break stuff when jammed into a tight apace
The Torque Test Channel covered these devices a few months ago and they did impressive work transmitting power!
I have a red box of about 300 different sized O-rings. I've never found one in there that's the size I want.
lol the old harbor freight “master kit”? I never get to use any of mine either
For 4 decades my friends and family know that any repair I do to cars, electronics, etc - I will have a bolt or screw left over. But all repairs have worked. I have been nicknamed "one screw loose" I enjoy it as what I've fixed has remained fixed.
This is a big job. I'm just getting started on the video but this is definitely beyond me at this point. Looks routine for Ray though. Maybe it's engine 101.
Good on you for being honest. Big is relative, of course. It is, OTOH, one of those jobs you have to do exactly right, because the alignment of the marks and chain has to be right on. On some pulleys you can zip tie the chains to the pulleys because they have holes in them. On this one, another creative solution is needed. Maybe some sort of locking pliers with 'nose extensions' and padding to avoid damage.
@@pfsantos007 There's special tools you use to time the motor. You can usually get them as a kit for not too much money on amazon.
My wife has an 08 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 3.3 V6. it has the death rattle at cold start too. Only problem is, I replaced both hydraulic chain tensioners, all the guides, VVT's and everything in there while I had it apart. Still rattles! I believe it has oil delivery issues because the previous owner did not believe in oil changes. I cleaned everything I could access while the timing chains, oil pan, intake and VVT,s were out/off. Didn't work. It has helped running Seafoam in the oil and changing it every 2000-2500 miles. Lots of coked oil and crap in the oil filters.
Too late,,,,the horses already got out of the coral!
@@fredwalker839 It runs great otherwise. No metal or aluminum in the filters, just flakes of old oil snd crap from getting cleaned out! Never uses a drop of oil and has lots of pep
I rebuilt a transmission in an impala. Got 2 valve body bolts swapped and instant carnage as soon as car was put in gear. The longer bolt hit the stator, sheared off the bolt and wrecked the stator. One of those days you want to beat your head on a wall.
I can't even imagine going through all of that to get to there :(
Hard to imagine but an hour later you swerved to miss a deer and hit a tree head on. Car was totaled, what a shame since the Trans was bad 🤫
@@TheFrenchPug I repaired it in car but was a royal pia and most of another day. You can pull most of the trans apart from drivers side wheel well.
huh ? lol
@@dev-debug Wow. Great job. I would be scared to do that one.
Some rattle in VVT phasors is normal for a few seconds until oil pressure is up when the engine has set long enough for the oil to drain out of the phasors. The rattle is just the phasors hitting their end of travel stops until they fill so the computer can fine tune the timing. It is important to use the correct recommended weight of oil on any VVT engine.
Nissan SR20 are notorious for it when using the specified oil. One the customers from my old work ran 20w50 Pennzoil in his, no issues for well over 150k on second hand import motor.
My 2012 Santa Fe V6 has a "rattle" for a few seconds on start-up. Once the oil pressure comes up, it goes away. Only 32,400 miles.
Is your point this is a needless fix ?
Yes, Toyota’s have it too.
My DOHC Subaru Boxer rattles on startup too... 100% normal.
I can't believe how clean that 162K motor is.
Welcome back to the Healthy World Ray, enjoy all of your videos
My heart broke a little when you powered down and didn't go "bewoooo"
This guys videos have saved me tons of money....how he gets to teh problem just by sight and sound just spent over 600 dollars on teh shop using the parts cannon when this video told me exactly what the problem is
Interesting video... my wife's 2011 Elantra sedan has been making this noise on startup for years. I've always assumed it was simply the tensioner and that, if the noise goes away after a second, it's probably harmless for the most part. I can't see doing such a major repair unless the symptoms get worse -- such as the noise lasts longer than a second or two, or if it comes back after the engine has been running awhile (that is, not just on startup). When that happens, I had always planned to dump the car. Sure won't buy a Hyundai again.
when i put the belt on everything was lined up but doing an extra spin knocked it out line so after some spinning nope, so i removed tensioner and grabbed the crank and turned it so the dot would line up and put it back together, (the tensioner i used a clamp and sqeezed it in and put the pin back in , in short the car runs fine. have a good day ray .
It dosent mater Wether it's one or two, it's reality, not everything goes to plan, great job, you make it look easy, all the best to you and your loved ones
I really like the videos where you wrench on engines, gettin' in there and workin' on their innards. Good stuff, Ray!
Very clean engine compartment considering the age and mileage! edit: you probably already finished the repair by now, and this comment is not so much for you but others doing these: turn the engine a couple complete turns and re-check the marks just to be safe.
interesting observation made at 27:14. The timing dots were lined up but the lines on the face of the cogs were off a few teeth, and then by magic it was fine at 27:34. That's the beauty of editing I guess!
Nothing to hide here - Probably just cutting out finagling the chain, hitting the camera 10 more times with a wrench and getting everything in position.
He even said at 16:36 "That stuff moved - that's okay". So he was aware of it and didn't need to hide stuff.
Just a little rotation of the engine is all it took to line the horizontal marks up. You could tell by looking at it that was the case. As long as the marks on the sprockets/phasers line up with the marked links on the chain, it will be fine. When the engine is clocked to exact TDC, the horizontal marks will be in line. My only concern looking at this was the slack in the bottom of the chain around the crank sprocket. If the engine is turned clockwise after this, no harm no foul - everything will be fine but if the crank is turned CCW, then timing will be off a tooth.
@@silicon212 Thats where the tensioner comes into play.
@@graken22 Tensioner has nothing to do with it in this instance - if the crank is moved clockwise, the marked link on the chain which is engaged with the mark on the sprocket, will remain in that location and as the crank is turned to the left (CW), the slack will disappear and then the tensioner will do its thing. If the crank is turned CCW, the same thing will happen but the crank will be off a tooth on the cam timing with respect to the cams. This is because there is an extra link worth of slack in the bottom of the crank. Turn one direction, things work out well - turn the other, things don't.
I've always imagined that engine part I am attempting to remove was the 1st part placed on the assembly line then every other part was added around it. This can cause sadistic fantasy of kidnaping the design engineers and placing them in in a poorly lit uncooled garage with a 12 piece hand wrench set and two screwdrivers. Terms of release involves replacement of the surrounded part that I was currently struggling with.
I can rally behind this for sure
And make sure that the 10mm socket is missing.
And tell them that for every minute past “book time” you will pluck a hair from his head.
@@RustyZipper I guess adding sadism to sadism is ok lol
I agree if they had to do what you're saying maybe when they're designing stuff and coming up with brilliant ideas they might think about the guy on the other end and
I have the same car, bought it new. Did it every since the day I test drove it. It’s a NU engine
Another enjoyable vlog, Ray. Thanks. But don't understand what happened to the check engine/service light diagnostics? Although you had a hunch, how did you determine to go open heart surgery at the get go? :-?
hopefully i'm not too late... i'm an old Kia tech, most of our manuals said to install our belts and chains clockwise starting with the exhaust cam. that puts all of your slack on the adjuster side. of course they gave us cam locks and such but most were plastic and sucked. several aftermarket cam locks worked better but you seemed to manage it just fine without them. In the older Kia/Hyundai engines with timing belts, especially the 3.5L V6 engines, you could get all the cams lined up and wrap the crank, install the tensioner, LOOKS GOOOOD. then rotate the engine a full turn (twice on the crank) and it would be off 1 tooth every time. We finally found there were four 12mm threaded holes behind the cams worked great to make our own cam locks that keep the cams from moving. B2 exhaust was the only one that the threaded hole was in the middle of the cam hole instead of on a bar. We made a bent metal bracket that "filled" the hole in the cam face and worked great. Never had an issue after that. Also, if you deal with timing belts on those old 3.5L Sorentos, it isn't work fighting the radiator and condenser, drain both and pull the entire core support and you can yank the radiator and condenser and cooling fans out as a unit and have open access to the front of the engine. Knocked a timing belt time from 4 hours to just over an hour and a half. Love your videos! i miss teching... just don't miss the body aches (cuz they are still with me :( lol)
You make a difficult job look so easy. You the man!
Ray,
Your on the Train to Busan Korea with this one. Can't wait for part 2.👍👍👍👍
Took the garage 3days to get the timeing chain kit for mine and then 5hrs to do glad I did take it they found a lot wrong with it and the bolt that holds on the harmonic balancer was going to fall out.
Had to open the chem closet for more
"Brake Kleen"!!!
The important part of any repair. Make it nice and shiny.
When I watched that jump I was worried that the timing was stuffed. I assume you corrected for it.
Can’t wait to watch the next part when parts arrive
that cleaning spray you use cuts the mustard for me and I'm sure others sad I know I should try to get out more, that said I enjoy all of your videos PLEASE keep them coming
Super clean under the hood for 168K miles
Glad your back in the swing of it.
I thought I was going to have to do this on my car and I watched a similar video. The other guy had the engine out of the car and it looked pretty straightforward. Once I see the repair in the car, it doesn’t look as easy. Turns out it was a loose heat shield and all is well.
Have to say, you get more done with one hand then any mechanic I have ever seen. Wish you were on the west coast.
Oh man missing oil pump o rings good Work tons of removal progress on this one @Rainman Ray's Repairs
I just started watching this particular video... why didn't you scan the codes first when you saw the check engine light?
Those Hyundai GDI engines are notorious for that rattle noise on start up. It goes away in like .5 seconds after start up. Even after repairing the timing chain tensioner, it'll come back in just a few months. Hyundai calls it a "character noise". Oil pressure is needed to make the tensioner work. When the engine has sat for a while the oil has settled. So you can't really get rid of that sound in a hyundai GDI engine.
This being a 2011, it more than likely has the 1.8L MPI engine.
Hi... Can you share a link where Hyundai calls it a "character noise"? Or is that just something you've heard? My wife's 2011 Elantra has been making this noise for years and I'm hesitant to fix something that doesn't need to be fixed. Just plan to live with it and never buy Hyundai again. Or dump the car if the noise gets worse. These 1.8 motors aren't GDI, by the way. Thanks.
@@21Piloteer This is the MPI engine as you can see no HPFP and the injectors are up top in the MPI setting.
@@WilliamBrown-vf9ou I work for Hyundai and rebuild these engines in a day from the block up. is it a rattle that goes away after 2 seconds or a knocking that goes away after 30 seconds? different issues.
@@TormentedPenguin, hi, thanks for your reply. The rattle lasts about 1-2 seconds on initial morning startup. From my research, I think it's the timing chain tensioner. There are no other symptoms. I change the oil (with synthetic and high-quality filters) myself more frequently than required, so I think the engine is healthy. It's been making this rattle for years and I'm inclined to live with it until there are other symptoms. I know there is a risk of it skipping timing, but I'm hoping that risk is fairly low and that I'll get warning before anything bad happens!
Spare parts will get more and more scarce as the supply chains around the world are heavily disrupted. It will get to a stage where you wont be able to repairs with new parts,they will all be second hand parts soon. Sht is about to hit the fan real soon.
That’s why I put all of my money in BitCoin and made my first million dollars 💰 Send me $1000 and I’ll share my secrets 🤫
I always keep my bolts and bits organized by pushing them into a piece of cardboard in order, along a drawn outline of the part they came from.
same. I take a few photos along the way also so i can work backwards if I lose my way
I put mine in an old coffee can with 13 leftover bolts from other projects. I make sure to kick the can over at least 3 times and lose at least one in a pail of oil or floor drain. That way when you put it back together it takes 14.3 minutes per bolt to re-install each part. But I bet you guys aren’t ASE Certified KeyBoard Mechanics like me 🙄
Jeetje-me-spleetje....
DeeDee, thanks !!! , maybe I should do that, instead of having bolts and nuts left over in the end. help works.
@@jaydegelder2964 I always have a lot of cardboard and sheets of paper left from ordering stuff online, so there's no reason for me to do it another way.
If a lot needs to be taken apart or the project takes a long time, the sheets of cardboard can also be shelved for convenience.
This way i never lose anything or forget where it belongs.
Can also scribble reminders on the cardboard like torque specs, order of installation and whatnot.
You should really try it.
It's super simple and prevents a lot of tedious micro-managing.
That job is actually going well. They can be a nightmare
This one is not finished yet!
These engines are a toy compared to others.. I have rebuilt about 50 of them from the block up.. Every time i have it timed, I look back thinking I forgot something because it was too easy. Granted, I pull them from the car before I rebuild them.
Glad you're back on the mend. Great video. Hopefully all the parts come in.
Oh man, I was looking forward to seeing it running.
"Highly secured area" protected by a padlock and an improperly installed hasp. Probably faster to remove the 4 screws than fidget with the key🙂
Glad you are feeling better! Welcome back to the grind
I was thinking the same thing " How does this guy keep track of all those different bolts , nuts and screws??? " I saw when he took apart a whole dash apart and to me he was just letting them fall on the floor and I was thinking , man I could never do what he does !!! The times I do work on my own vehicle I always end up with extras. ( after everything is well , sort of , in it's place. )
that gear drive tool shit is awesome, like a portal axle drive on a tractor, both wow, good work
Getting an early start at work is always fun.
I believe that's the infamous piston slap Hyundai recalled. I also swapped the tensioner in mine and didn't notice much difference. Still get the cold start slap but we're nearing 290k miles so no complaints.
40+ years of plastic bits in the engine, 40+ years of chemical research, and still everything becomes brittle after 6 months of operation, or stiff and unwilling to work as intended.
back in the days they made quality. now its quantity. they make money on parts not the actual car.
you wont see companys going bankrupt like Kreidler did because they made their product too well and didnt sell parts.
i know its just a moped but they handed out silver and gold pins to owners having machines going 50.000 - 100.000 km without anything changed.
a honorable way to go down.
and those small engines could take a beating.
in 1968 they set a 110 mph topspeed with a small 50 ccm engine.
@@MrLarsgren Yes I used to dream of getting one of those as a teenager but had to "make do" with trying everything I could to make my Yamaha FS1E go faster (made 70mph down a big hill)
Should tell you it's planned!
@@dragonmaker1541 planned obsolescence is the worst thing ever, I know they do it to make money, but c’mon, the least they can do is make a good car.
@@mx_nana_banana "Planned obsolescence" very rarely has any meaning in terms of cars. Can you point to any component in a car that's purposely designed to fail after a set period? No, you can't, because there aren't any. The same component will last a longer or shorter period in any given vehicle due to all manner of factors completely outside the manufacturer's control.
I picked up a can of that same brake cleaner ray uses and it works better than the Walmart brand or Orielly auto brand. It’s good stuff.
& cheap if you buy in bulk ! LOL
Thanks for all you do! Enjoy a couple beers on me.
Or I gallon of gas!
Looking forward to the other video to complete this repair.
"And now the moment I--" Brake clean. It's Brake clean. XD love it. ❤️
Also did my ears detect a story about a certain Arizona Ranger?
I broke the harmonic balancer washer on a spectra, and this cars looks to be the exact same. I probably over impacted, but it was made out of like die cast toy car metal.
One time use
one cover, 87 bolts later... you are a braver man than me!
Parts delay a victim of supply chain issues perhaps? I personally would have liked to learn more on what to look for in assessing the faulty phazer. It would be helpful for me.
Shit the $ lights ON🧐
.As a Diesel technician I also leave all bolts with the removed items, It saves a lot of time screwing around trying to figure out what length bolts should be used, If you don't care then Your going to run into Problems, Also sometimes you'll have 5 Machines apart waiting for parts this makes it even more important 👍 You are SO lucky Not to have to deal with Hardly any Rust on that machine, Because up here in the Snow belt things with over 150,000miles can be a little RUSTY at times 🤓.
Sounds like the typical Hyundai Tick. A lot of these engines tick cold because of piston slap and it slowly gets worse over time. Once they start burning oil it's time to consider a new engine, or at least a rebuild with new pistons and bored 0.02 over. Of course it goes away once the engine warms up. You should hear it when its -20C out.
It’s exactly this. I own a 14 Elantra and know this noise. He wasted his money sadly.
Ya! My neiborgh has one ! Noisey SOB in the winter ! It will blow up soon!
I would hate to know how much you've invested in tools, I've seen you use a few that I didn't even know existed till now, especially the fancy handy dandy tool you had to hold the power steering pully in place, that seemed way better than a screwdriver or a punch which is what I would usually use when I forgot to break the bolts loose(typically about half the time)
In the UK we call that a strap wrench, it is also perfect for removing oil filters
Most techs @ this level have $50-$100K in tools. Ya, you can deduct the costs on Income Tax... Once they exceed 3% of gross. Ya, that makes the Fed Gov't an uninvested partner in your work.
Ain't It Grand !
@@unclegreybeard3969 Yup, they are called the same thing here in the US, even my great grandfather had a few on his farm (he passed in 2006 at 108) and my grandfather had them... And even I have one. Really versatile tool and not just for a mechanic. (Jar lids beware!)
@@unclegreybeard3969 That was my first thought when I saw it but it was different than one I had, if that's what it actually was then color me impressed I never once thought to use it that way.
@@peted5217 By the time I quit turning wrenches for a living I had somewhere in the neighborhood of 75k invested in my tools, my oldest son followed in my footsteps and became a ASS oops I meant ASE certified technician so I passed along most of my tools to him to help get a better start than I did.
Oooo part 2 to follow yeeesssss I do like long videos and 2 and 3 even 4 part videos nice one Ray 👍
You gotta love when they don't send the right stuff with the parts!! Happens to us here in Ohio as well. You have a great day Ray!!
We ended up getting someones old factory slide pins for the brakes on the car i did the other day...lol. open package , rusted bolts and werent even the same ones. Added another hour to the job because they don't check their returns for store credit or whatever and just out returns back on the shelf
I would love some running commentary about the build style/quality of the different makes that you are servicing. Jesus, that timing chain cover looked like it was 30lbs... a solid casting o_o. So many bolts... soooo manyyyy. The alternator adjustment serpentine belt, not a tensioner. I think it was another Hyundai you did that still had V-belts, but was a 2000something.
Highly secure area , but you can unscrew the latch without unlocking lock 😉
No way you can readily find a tool to remove those screws, they’re a proprietary design 🤣
Your a Pretty genius mechanic, Id travel miles for Ray to work on my car he’s an amazing mechanic. Bit to far from the Uk though lol
I don’t know about anyone else but I LOVE clean engines.
Why on earth does your office phone ring in the shop? That would aggravate the hell out of me.
To help keep track of bolts and nuts. When I can, I put the bolts and nuts back in the spot came from (with whatever was in the way removed).. Of course there are cases where that is not practical.
Ray I have to say: Your phasor work is stunning.
Im amazed how clean the motor is inside & outside for the mileage ?
Lighting extra special great on this video!
I'd not heard of phasers until you mentioned them, so I googled it. Clever gadgets, eh?
You drive better with the hood up than most do in my state with the hood down!
Jeez that engine is clean on the inside compared to my 2011 prius with 279k on it. Did the head gasket recently and the sludge was thick. I know since we owned it the oil was changed on time and had just come due for a oil change when I did the head gasket. I used a case of brake cleaner and several cans of oven cleaner on the head, valve cover and timing chain cover as well as 4+ rolls of the blue paper towels. Cleaned what I could get to then used a detergent additive when I put everything back together and let the engine run for a while with a new oil filter. After about 30 minutes of run time I changed the oil to royal purple oil with a new wax oil filter and some leave in sludge removing additive. In 1 week I went over 600 miles. Less than a month I'm at over 1500 miles. When I hit 3000 miles I will be doing another oil change with royal purple oil and another with filter and another bottle of sludge away. Then I will change the oil and filter every 5000 miles. Every oil change I do myself cost me almost $100. Expensive but since I started using royal purple my fuel mileage has gotten better. I'm talking from 30 mpg to 40mpg now. Big difference