Very nice walkthrough. Especially liked the fact you handled the waste of the plasterboards. To have the old plasterboard separated for months, that is really something. Way to go Sir!
Good tip @ 2:55 Roger. I'm a tiler by trade and often when i turn up on jobs there's a huge stack of tiles right in the middle of a floor! Really makes my heart skip a beat. 40 square metres of porcelain tiles is proper heavy and when i state the obvious to either the client or the builder all hands on deck to spread the load.
I've just plaster boarded my garage conversion, as a DIYer my advice would be to not be too hard on yourself on gaps between boards and around edges. I was particularly fussy and it made for a long job with a lot of waste having to recut. I probably shouldn't have bothered as once the plasterer taped and skimmed it looked perfect.
Instant gratification job. All of a sudden you have rooms and customers make wow noises. In the UK with those tiny sheets you can still get away with no sheet lifter. And as you still skim coat lots of joins. One of the best tools I have is my sheet lifter. They say they only lift up to 4.8 M sheets but with a bit of modification they do 6M sheets no problem and as we only joint tape less joins. Also vaulted ceilings are in vogue at the moment. The lifters are good for that too.
Magnificent! Such a treat of a channel and always have to compliment the info graphics and title board. Everything looks great and the content is always intriguing and hugely informative.
I am doing plasterboarding at work right now. We're doing around 300-350 plates in the whole house. I've used the wurth screwdriver and absolutely hate the automat feeder with the soft plastic screw-strips. The quickdrive with the stiff plastic ones is much better! We also cut the plaster board standing most of the time, rather than laying it down. Lot of the time we use the tape measure, instead of using squares etc. Your work looks good and thorough. But have you used a footlift instead of those viking arms? The cut-out tool is tricky to learn to use, but it is a revolution compared to hole-saws etc. It is so much better to cut things in place, rather than relying on your measuring, plus all of the uncertainties you encounter like ceilings that are not entirely level and out of plumb walls, rough edges along the length of the boards - things that throw your measuring off. A very crucial thing to talk about with boarding walls is to generally move from corner to corner to both give room for expansion for material, as well as avoiding having to do presicion-cutting more than once in every room that is rectangular. In Norway, getting rid of plasterboard is around 170 pounds per m3 of plasterboard - pretty insane in my opinion. But only as a contractor, as a private person it is free
Good morning Thank u for those tips. In Los Angeles, we call it drywall and it comes in 4x8 or 4x12 sheets. I am a do it yourself guy and I don't do a lot. I had never seen the collated gun that Robin showed. it looked really nice. But u like a different one? Could u post a link to it. Thank u for your very nice comment!!
@@billrimmer5596 Hey, I don't know much about the different screwdrivers. To me, stiff plastic screws on quick drive feeder seems the best. That feeder works on lots of different drills with an adapter. To me it doesn't seem like which drill you have matter as much. I've used DeWalt, Makita and Wurth. I think i would stay away from Wurth. The other option is to use gun-screws with a good gun. That is unbelievably fast, and shoots reliable!
Great vid as usual. We call it drywall here. 4x8 sheets 1/2 inch thick is what I use. The 5/8 is way to heavy for me. And I shoot a texture on it to hide all my mess ups. I don't do much. That collated gun is super nice. One of the commenters from Norway uses a different one. Thanks again!!
I never heard them called a tee before. Always called them a dead man. Also your deadmen are the best looking ones I’ve ever seen, normally it’s 2 bits of 4x2 and a screw 🤣🤣
Great video as ever. I have that Festool autofeed screwdriver and it is excellent. I've also used it to put in collated Seneca flooring screws which was a big time saver working solo. I think Festool have a different model number for the flooring screws (2500 vs 4500) but the plasterboard version worked great.
I've boarded a few ceilings on my own before. One trick I've used is to get a length of batten and screw it up to the studwork about 15mm from the ceiling. Then push the board into this slot and lift the other end, propping it against the ceiling with another piece of batten. That's usually enough to make sure it's straight and get some screws in but you can always screw up some more short pieces of batten into the ceiling joists, making sure you don't go through the board of course. Adjust, measure, screw and take down the battens. I wouldn't go this on a high ceiling though. You need to be comfortable maneouvering the board. Tricky with the blue stuff...
I have one plasterboarding tip that I think can be useful to beginners, about cutting out irregular shapes. I should emphasise that of course this is not the only way to cut out a piece, but sometimes you want a nice fit and this applies in those instances where you just have to measure. When I first started figuring out plasterboarding as a DIYer, and particularly coming from a mathematical background, my first thought was to try and triangulate. For example, suppose we are cutting out a (slightly imperfect) rectangle. First measure the top and left sides, and the diagonal between them, and mark out that triangle on the board. Then measure the right and bottom sides, and mark out the lower right triangle. After all, surely that's the quickest way to get a nice accurate measurement, right? Well, maybe in theory. But in practice it's just way too error prone; with distances that can be over 2m the smallest angle errors just cause far too much difficulty. I tried every method including using pointy sticks to get right into the corners, but it was never reliable. So my advice: don't be tempted to try and triangulate, you're just wasting your time. Instead, find a straight reference edge (or draw a straight reference line) and make several measurements perpendicular to it. If you want to do this both ways you can use a framing square to draw perpendicular reference lines. Once you get into the swing of it it's not that slow and you get a basically perfect fit first time every time.
@@jrsuk1170 possibly! For clarity, just means dividing the shape into triangles. The three side lengths of a triangle can only be made into the same triangle, so when you measure it out it should, in theory, be exactly right.
My Son is a Tacker and most Winters I would jump on with him in the bad months, we never use a straight edge only tape and knife and chalk line for long cuts, no collated gun as most contractors won't pay for the screws, he puts 8x4s up on his own of a pair of steps, ime to old for that and use Board mates.
Professional tackers like your son are amazing, I love the way the use the tape and knife technique, and when I was younger I would do the ceiling boards on my own to!! Say hi to him mate!!
Great video ,my own project getting close to plaster boarding and I’m using 15mm on walls and ceiling ,what do you advise to have 12mm OSP beard or play to keep the 4x2 more study and to make sure not any movement on future?
Looking at the drywall router on the website it is appears to have a long drill bit, so do you fit your metal boxes flush with the stud faces, then curl up the cables and adjust the cutter depth to say 12mm before plunging through the board so you don't damage the cable ?
I love plasterboarding. I've used Boardmates and 600mm of batten to board ceilings on my own for years. All apprentice carpenters should be let loose on boarding, it can't look any worse than when plasterers do it 👍
Always brilliant videos robin with tons of excellent tips and advice backed up by solid logical reasons why to do certain things a certain way. brilliant. it should be done this way because... instead of the usual trade talk nonsense. So many good take aways in these videos for general workmanship and being constantly aware of the little details when doing any job. they seperate the good from the mediocre!
T square is decent . The Best collated gun is hilti - by miles , the others come nowhere near if your doing it day in day out! When your a professional metal stud fixer/ tacker and done it for years like myself (16 years ) since I was 16 . Using a tape and knife only I can cut any angle 🤣
Great video. Try a foot lifter for fitting the boards. Look forward to see how you do the jointing, taping, and skimming Clevett style. I'm thinking you might normally pay someone else to do that, but you will have thought about it and have your view on how to do a great job. So - fill the joints and screw heads and allow to set, before taping? It is such a shame to have to cover up all your lovely carpentry. Can you avoid that in the top storey and still meet BCO? I'd love to see a wood finish in those top rooms, and better for the environment. Ok further down it has to be plaster for fireproofing. Look forward to the next one.
You need to try the Tajima drywall rasp - lovely tool even if it is made of plastic! What is the make of your little lifts? There seems to be bunch of those on the market but the price range is quite wide.
Cheers ... will plastering joins be Part II? :o if one doesn't have those pro specialised tools ....I use a small Makita Impact Driver, you just have to learn to feather it so as not to punch a hole in the plasterboard with the screw. Also to cut square holes, drill the corners with 10mm wood bit then jigsaw. I also use a 115mm angle grinder with thin cutting disk, very handy but messy with the dust it creates.
when measuring out do you not take the windows into account and all the alcoves and corners it seemed a rough estimate? also the dehumidifier is a great idea i'll have to use that trick myself!
Hi Robin, Another good informative video 👍, I have a question please but it is nothing to do with plaster boarding, What make/model is your tool-belt & where did you buy it. I like the idea of the braces it must stop the belt getting weighed down when you have a lot of tools and on your belt. Thanks Mark
Hi Mark, I use a Diamondback toolbelt with the braces and what I really have taken too is the fact that the belt sits slightly above hip level, I used to have a simple belt set up that used to cut into me if it was on for a long period, however the Diamondback rig stays on all day no problem!! Check out their Instagram or RUclips channel, hope that helps mate
Hi Robin, Just a quick thank you for the info on the Diamondback Tool-belt, I received mine on Friday & what a difference not having to keep pulling up your belt every 10 Minutes, Thanks again Mark
AFAIK fixing boards horizontally is not permitted by BG as the the horizontal edge of the board is unsupported, that is unless you have nogged out the entire perimeter which lets be honest you haven't 🤣 Great work all the same,
"You don't really need this many tools so ignore what you see in front of me (so why show them then?) Because I am Robin Clevett and I'm just showing off"
That is a sheet that measures 2.4 x 1.2, in the video I explain that there are several sizes and the sheets we use generally are 15mm thick by 2.7m x 1.2m this gives a bigger square meterage
You forgot another essential bit of kit. A good quality mask. They seem to be quite popular of late. Can't imagine why the missus wont let me wear my gimp mask on site. She's ever SO strict. Oof!
Plasterboardin', eh? Well, whattabou' when folk is plastered an' they start in with som' free-for-all boardin'.. slingin' the mud aroun' on furniture an' such...wha' then?...wha'do ya' do?..Thks
Isn't it kind of obvious? My guess is that Roger owns SkillBuilder. Robin can have his own channel, under his own control, make the content he wants and of course, reap all the rewards
This is at the big build? Seems a shame to conceal all that meticulous work behind something as mundane as sheetrock. But who would want to live with open studs. Your comments about waste disposal sent me to our local household hazardous waste site. “Construction debris” on a small scale seems to fall through the cracks. Just trash.
You can also use a small laser level as a guide for screwing plasterboard to studs and ceiling timbers instead of marking with a chalkline or level.
Very nice walkthrough. Especially liked the fact you handled the waste of the plasterboards. To have the old plasterboard separated for months, that is really something. Way to go Sir!
Good tip @ 2:55 Roger. I'm a tiler by trade and often when i turn up on jobs there's a huge stack of tiles right in the middle of a floor! Really makes my heart skip a beat. 40 square metres of porcelain tiles is proper heavy and when i state the obvious to either the client or the builder all hands on deck to spread the load.
I've just plaster boarded my garage conversion, as a DIYer my advice would be to not be too hard on yourself on gaps between boards and around edges. I was particularly fussy and it made for a long job with a lot of waste having to recut. I probably shouldn't have bothered as once the plasterer taped and skimmed it looked perfect.
Instant gratification job. All of a sudden you have rooms and customers make wow noises. In the UK with those tiny sheets you can still get away with no sheet lifter. And as you still skim coat lots of joins. One of the best tools I have is my sheet lifter. They say they only lift up to 4.8 M sheets but with a bit of modification they do 6M sheets no problem and as we only joint tape less joins. Also vaulted ceilings are in vogue at the moment. The lifters are good for that too.
Magnificent! Such a treat of a channel and always have to compliment the info graphics and title board. Everything looks great and the content is always intriguing and hugely informative.
The Festool driver changed my life with respect speed. As a single worker it reduced my time per sheet by 60%.
I am doing plasterboarding at work right now. We're doing around 300-350 plates in the whole house. I've used the wurth screwdriver and absolutely hate the automat feeder with the soft plastic screw-strips. The quickdrive with the stiff plastic ones is much better! We also cut the plaster board standing most of the time, rather than laying it down. Lot of the time we use the tape measure, instead of using squares etc. Your work looks good and thorough. But have you used a footlift instead of those viking arms? The cut-out tool is tricky to learn to use, but it is a revolution compared to hole-saws etc. It is so much better to cut things in place, rather than relying on your measuring, plus all of the uncertainties you encounter like ceilings that are not entirely level and out of plumb walls, rough edges along the length of the boards - things that throw your measuring off.
A very crucial thing to talk about with boarding walls is to generally move from corner to corner to both give room for expansion for material, as well as avoiding having to do presicion-cutting more than once in every room that is rectangular.
In Norway, getting rid of plasterboard is around 170 pounds per m3 of plasterboard - pretty insane in my opinion. But only as a contractor, as a private person it is free
Good morning Thank u for those tips. In Los Angeles, we call it drywall and it comes in 4x8 or 4x12 sheets. I am a do it yourself guy and I don't do a lot. I had never seen the collated gun that Robin showed. it looked really nice. But u like a different one? Could u post a link to it. Thank u for your very nice comment!!
@@billrimmer5596 Hey, I don't know much about the different screwdrivers. To me, stiff plastic screws on quick drive feeder seems the best. That feeder works on lots of different drills with an adapter. To me it doesn't seem like which drill you have matter as much. I've used DeWalt, Makita and Wurth. I think i would stay away from Wurth. The other option is to use gun-screws with a good gun. That is unbelievably fast, and shoots reliable!
Great vid as usual. We call it drywall here. 4x8 sheets 1/2 inch thick is what I use. The 5/8 is way to heavy for me. And I shoot a texture on it to hide all my mess ups. I don't do much. That collated gun is super nice. One of the commenters from Norway uses a different one. Thanks again!!
I never heard them called a tee before. Always called them a dead man. Also your deadmen are the best looking ones I’ve ever seen, normally it’s 2 bits of 4x2 and a screw 🤣🤣
2 bits deadman easy To use not need Tuo be straight and lighter
thanks Robin
I bought a plaster board lift, bit like a genie lift. A god send for working on your own, especially if the joist run out. Good vid as always mate 👍
I tend to work in a lot of older houses so I’d add a jigsaw to that tool kit, it get used quite a lot for scribing boards
quality builder top of your game love checking out your vids always pick up little tips from you respect
Great video as ever. I have that Festool autofeed screwdriver and it is excellent. I've also used it to put in collated Seneca flooring screws which was a big time saver working solo. I think Festool have a different model number for the flooring screws (2500 vs 4500) but the plasterboard version worked great.
Will look foreward to your novel- Plasterboarding Forever More!
I've boarded a few ceilings on my own before. One trick I've used is to get a length of batten and screw it up to the studwork about 15mm from the ceiling. Then push the board into this slot and lift the other end, propping it against the ceiling with another piece of batten.
That's usually enough to make sure it's straight and get some screws in but you can always screw up some more short pieces of batten into the ceiling joists, making sure you don't go through the board of course. Adjust, measure, screw and take down the battens.
I wouldn't go this on a high ceiling though. You need to be comfortable maneouvering the board. Tricky with the blue stuff...
ive seen some absolute shockers when some people are let loose plasterboarding. and when they're let loose dabbing its even worse
Great video Robin , thanks !!
I have one plasterboarding tip that I think can be useful to beginners, about cutting out irregular shapes. I should emphasise that of course this is not the only way to cut out a piece, but sometimes you want a nice fit and this applies in those instances where you just have to measure.
When I first started figuring out plasterboarding as a DIYer, and particularly coming from a mathematical background, my first thought was to try and triangulate. For example, suppose we are cutting out a (slightly imperfect) rectangle. First measure the top and left sides, and the diagonal between them, and mark out that triangle on the board. Then measure the right and bottom sides, and mark out the lower right triangle. After all, surely that's the quickest way to get a nice accurate measurement, right? Well, maybe in theory. But in practice it's just way too error prone; with distances that can be over 2m the smallest angle errors just cause far too much difficulty. I tried every method including using pointy sticks to get right into the corners, but it was never reliable.
So my advice: don't be tempted to try and triangulate, you're just wasting your time. Instead, find a straight reference edge (or draw a straight reference line) and make several measurements perpendicular to it. If you want to do this both ways you can use a framing square to draw perpendicular reference lines. Once you get into the swing of it it's not that slow and you get a basically perfect fit first time every time.
Maybe I'm being presumptuous but I doubt many people getting in to drylining as a career will have the slightest glue what triangulate means.
@@jrsuk1170 possibly! For clarity, just means dividing the shape into triangles. The three side lengths of a triangle can only be made into the same triangle, so when you measure it out it should, in theory, be exactly right.
My Son is a Tacker and most Winters I would jump on with him in the bad months, we never use a straight edge only tape and knife and chalk line for long cuts, no collated gun as most contractors won't pay for the screws, he puts 8x4s up on his own of a pair of steps, ime to old for that and use Board mates.
Professional tackers like your son are amazing, I love the way the use the tape and knife technique, and when I was younger I would do the ceiling boards on my own to!! Say hi to him mate!!
@@ukconstruction Will do Robin 👍
Great video as always, thanks!
Great video ,my own project getting close to plaster boarding and I’m using 15mm on walls and ceiling ,what do you advise to have 12mm OSP beard or play to keep the 4x2 more study and to make sure not any movement on future?
Looking at the drywall router on the website it is appears to have a long drill bit, so do you fit your metal boxes flush with the stud faces, then curl up the cables and adjust the cutter depth to say 12mm before plunging through the board so you don't damage the cable ?
I love plasterboarding. I've used Boardmates and 600mm of batten to board ceilings on my own for years. All apprentice carpenters should be let loose on boarding, it can't look any worse than when plasterers do it 👍
Always brilliant videos robin with tons of excellent tips and advice backed up by solid logical reasons why to do certain things a certain way. brilliant. it should be done this way because... instead of the usual trade talk nonsense. So many good take aways in these videos for general workmanship and being constantly aware of the little details when doing any job. they seperate the good from the mediocre!
T square is decent .
The Best collated gun is hilti - by miles , the others come nowhere near if your doing it day in day out!
When your a professional metal stud fixer/ tacker and done it for years like myself (16 years ) since I was 16 . Using a tape and knife only I can cut any angle 🤣
Great video. Try a foot lifter for fitting the boards. Look forward to see how you do the jointing, taping, and skimming Clevett style. I'm thinking you might normally pay someone else to do that, but you will have thought about it and have your view on how to do a great job. So - fill the joints and screw heads and allow to set, before taping? It is such a shame to have to cover up all your lovely carpentry. Can you avoid that in the top storey and still meet BCO? I'd love to see a wood finish in those top rooms, and better for the environment. Ok further down it has to be plaster for fireproofing. Look forward to the next one.
You need to try the Tajima drywall rasp - lovely tool even if it is made of plastic! What is the make of your little lifts? There seems to be bunch of those on the market but the price range is quite wide.
These are original Viking Arms and there is a link in the description below
The Marshalltown rasps are excellent as well, 👍🔨🇮🇪
Roto zip best kit there is not see many in uk use them
Same as 👍 always new T's as dead men 👋🇮🇪☘️👏 nice vid
"they call themselves tackers, but they generally screw things up" :D:D unintentional dig at plasterboarders :D
Cheers ... will plastering joins be Part II? :o if one doesn't have those pro specialised tools ....I use a small Makita Impact Driver, you just have to learn to feather it so as not to punch a hole in the plasterboard with the screw. Also to cut square holes, drill the corners with 10mm wood bit then jigsaw. I also use a 115mm angle grinder with thin cutting disk, very handy but messy with the dust it creates.
What nail pouches are they matey
when measuring out do you not take the windows into account and all the alcoves and corners it seemed a rough estimate? also the dehumidifier is a great idea i'll have to use that trick myself!
Hi Robin,
Another good informative video 👍, I have a question please but it is nothing to do with plaster boarding, What make/model is your tool-belt & where did you buy it.
I like the idea of the braces it must stop the belt getting weighed down when you have a lot of tools and on your belt.
Thanks Mark
Hi Mark, I use a Diamondback toolbelt with the braces and what I really have taken too is the fact that the belt sits slightly above hip level, I used to have a simple belt set up that used to cut into me if it was on for a long period, however the Diamondback rig stays on all day no problem!! Check out their Instagram or RUclips channel, hope that helps mate
@@ukconstruction …..Hey Robin thank you for the info and taking the time to get back to me 😊….. keep up the great work with your videos 👍
Hi Robin, Just a quick thank you for the info on the Diamondback Tool-belt, I received mine on Friday & what a difference not having to keep pulling up your belt every 10 Minutes,
Thanks again Mark
Full boards over doorways no cracks 👍
Great video thanks Robin. What make are those screw bags please? I'm forever dropping the box of screws and they look like they will clip onto a belt.
These are called DB sacks by the brilliant @diamondbacktoolbelts
When I stripped my house out I had to have a plasterboard skip it was £200 for skip then £120 per tonne of plasterboard so it’s not cheap
We call the Ts a dead man
AFAIK fixing boards horizontally is not permitted by BG as the the horizontal edge of the board is unsupported, that is unless you have nogged out the entire perimeter which lets be honest you haven't 🤣
Great work all the same,
This depends on the board thickness and the spacing of the frame etc
"You don't really need this many tools so ignore what you see in front of me (so why show them then?) Because I am Robin Clevett and I'm just showing off"
Hello Robin
Is there a link for the Wyeth drywall gun?
Sorry, Wurth
Also instead of the timber dead men .
Just buy some proper heavy duty props that adjust to your ceilings height
what's the model number for the makita drywall gun? never seen that model before?
There is a link in the video description below
I always thought there was 2.88sqm per board?
That is a sheet that measures 2.4 x 1.2, in the video I explain that there are several sizes and the sheets we use generally are 15mm thick by 2.7m x 1.2m this gives a bigger square meterage
Is it just a southern thing the waste restrictions on plasterboard? I've never had issues working in North Wales and Manchester
Those T,s are called "Dead men"
You forgot another essential bit of kit. A good quality mask. They seem to be quite popular of late. Can't imagine why the missus wont let me wear my gimp mask on site. She's ever SO strict.
Oof!
I used a mask and mentioned it bro
@@ukconstruction Oh OK. mea culpa!. Wasn't paying attention. Too engaged in getting a silly joke in. Have agood week, RC.
If you are throwing things out at height shout BELOW ! HSE lol
Plasterboardin', eh? Well, whattabou' when folk is plastered an' they start in with som' free-for-all boardin'.. slingin' the mud aroun' on furniture an' such...wha' then?...wha'do ya' do?..Thks
Why come you left skill builder
Isn't it kind of obvious? My guess is that Roger owns SkillBuilder. Robin can have his own channel, under his own control, make the content he wants and of course, reap all the rewards
This is at the big build? Seems a shame to conceal all that meticulous work behind something as mundane as sheetrock. But who would want to live with open studs. Your comments about waste disposal sent me to our local household hazardous waste site. “Construction debris” on a small scale seems to fall through the cracks. Just trash.