Forging 2,000 Bearings Into A War 'hawk | Battle Axe | Forged Tomahawk | Fantasy Weapon | Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 29 мар 2021
- I'm going to forge 2,000 ball bearings into a fearsome battle 'hawk.
Watch Part 2: • Forging A Tomahawk Fro...
Purchase this axe: firecreekforge.com/shop/ols/p...
My Website: firecreekforge.com
#battleaxe #canisterdamascus #forgedtomahawk
Ahhhhh cooooome ooooonnn!!!!🤦🏻♂️
I was on the edge of my seat maaan!!
Can’t wait!!💪🏼💪🏼❤️🔥🔥🔥🤣
I was gonna wait, then couldn't...
That paint worked super well. Nice
I am so glad that your billet came out so beautiful!!
Wow that spray paint worked really well!
Thanks for the video! Keeping those RUclips algorithms going strong. 😉
Very nice! Ready for part 2!!
Raw titanium dioxide powder can be bought from pottery glaze supply houses as well as paint pigment suppliers.
I love how this one turned out! I was going to do an axe soon but wasn't sure how to get stock that thick. I think I'm gonna do this same build with the bearings. Nice job!
Cool, thanks!
That paint really works well! You could see as you were compressing it, that it wasn’t going to stick at all.... super cool
Oohhh that peeled like a Xmas orange. 🤜🤛 Axe looks great. 👍👍
Last video I was going to mention that a foot pedal the press would help tremendously. Low and behold you put one on it. I’m Suprised the paint worked. Glad your trying née things out so that the rest of us don’t have to😉 . Love the axe,
Looks Awesome! Great job!
Awesome work.... Looking forward to part 2!
Awsome can’t wait to see finished product
OH MAN! What a tease! Now I'm all anxious to see part two. It looks great so far, I'm anticipating awesomeness!
Looking good so far. But is it me or is it more like a fireman’s axe than a tomahawk.
Loved the video! Can't wait to see it all cleaned up!
At first, i was worried with all the surface cracks, but now I'm amped to see the final thing. Good work man!!
Ready for part 2 already lol! Good looking work!
Have you tried the old school smoking the can?get a oil lantern and use the soot from it to put a layer soot inside the can. its how it was done in medieval times
great job so far
I’m happy you found some white spray paint that works. It works very well too.
Great video.
That looks awesome when you took it out of the canister and you could see each individual bearing.
The vent hole in the canister is good info. You're the first person I have heard mention this. Nice work 👍
On the Beat the Judges season of Forged in Fire, a contestant took the can while it was still hot, and quenched it for half/full second, in water. He was able to separate the can easily because the mild steel couldn't handle the shock of the quench. Funny thing is that he was going up against J. Nielsen, who was having a hell of a time getting his can off.
The paint you used makes it look about the same area of difficulty, if any.
Cool! Yeah, the paint worked really well
That looks awesome. I just finished a tomahawk out of bearings 1084 powder and the steel strips out of windshield wipers . It adds bright silver veining to the Billet. As for the paint Almost all white paint has titanium dioxide in it. It's what makes it white. I haven't found one that doesn't work yet. You just have to make sure the paint is dry before you start.
Cool! Thanks for watching
I forgot to mention, (something you probably already know), the ancient stain called vinegaroon which uses vinegar, iron rust and sometimes coffee. It works better when heated. Works on wood, rawhide, leather, bone, etc. Gives some varying cool results. I stained some buffalo bone and it gave an old fashioned subtle green color. Thanks for the video.
If you have some sawdust you can sprinkle some where your punching your eye and it will help it from sticking
Been watching your videos for a while now and can barely wait for the next one. This project looks very interesting.
Dang man that was alot of work.. I think its gunna look great!..
Cant wait to see part 2
Awesome thanks for the video looks great
Thanks for watching
Looks like this one is going to be a winner!
I bet you could add the powered steel while adding the bearings and you would probably prevent voids in the billet.
I've done it that way too, with the same results. Somebody mentioned some fancy engineering principle about stress and deformation, etc. that makes sense, since it's being forged lengthwise while being compressed...
I saw a guy on forged in fire use paper towels to keep the can separate from the inside.
I saw that too
Corner cracks in billets like these are not so much an issue of temperature but of stress state. There's no surrounding material on the corner faces (obviously) to support them. The peak loads experienced in the billet when worked will necessarily be at those corners, and strain in three axes, not two like the core of the billet. Because the billets *starts* life having to be welded together, rather than as a homogenous material, and as metals get hotter counterintuitively their ductility reduces - they draw out more easily because their mechanical properties are substantially reduced by heat including work hardening exponent, and they undergo dynamic recrystallisation, allowing continued working - such canister patternwelding will always have 'cracks' of that nature if the particle size of the install materials is above about the size of a grain of sand. You simply cannot weld the faces of the perpendicular material before the slightest scaling happens, then it won't weld, or have access to carbon potential to reduce the scale.
This edge discontinuity isn't peculiar even to cannister damascus. In the early history of rolling mills, sheet metal that underwent big reductions in a single pass would have a similar effect at the edges. It wasn't until we worked out how to shape the breakdown rolls to impose only two-axis strain at the edges that we stopped this
Cool, makes sense
I have had good luck with white out from the dollar store. i coat my can and leave it overnight to dry. but watching your billet come out of the can!
Buy titanium dioxide powder online and mix with either acetone or water and coat the inside with that and let it dry. Should be good to go after that. Also add a small amount of either charcoal or paper to eat up the oxygen/air inside the canister, then you wont have to worry about expanding gas.
I have a one piece one hand fireman's axe from the Calgary Fire Department ca 1970 or so. (steel handle, no welds). It's slightly smaller than this, but nearly identical profile. So if the censors come for you again, you can call this a fireman's axe!
coal dust or graphite and more frequent quenching of the drift and it wont stick . PS the colouring for white paint is almost always titanium based .
I have had better results with spray paint than white out as well. I have used Rustoleum white spray paint and had good luck with peeling a canister.
Welders ceramic coat. Comes in a spray can. Made by locktite SF 7900
Interesting
I'm not a smith or a metallurgist but I wonder if you could soot up the inside of the canister with soot from a yellow torch flame and that may minimize the bonding of the canister to the core material. Like I said I don't know if it will work but it is a cheap option to try.
The MSDS for ColorMaxx Flat White is pretty easy to find online, it *does* have a very high quantity of titanium dioxide pigment.
(Additionally, it's not just a heavy titanium dioxide pigment quantity that you need. You need the paint system to adhere to the substrate up to temperatures high enough that the pigment is encapsulated on its contact face by the can's scaling - so you need a coarse pigment that allows remnant air diffusion from the small amount in the can, and a resin binder system that is very polar and electrostatically bonds well to metals, ideal with chelating action in the monomer. Krylox Colourmaxx is a drying alky, so a sort of metal-catalysed polyester mad from polyunsaturated fatty acids. That is about as good as you'll get outside of high amine-count epoxies.
Neat thing about the color white is that Titanium Dioxide is most commonly used to make it! Most likely this does contain it and so it works! XD Edit:Someone probably already stated this XD
Perhaps you might try pressing it vertically before horizontally to help with those cracks?
White dye is literally titanium dioxide so it’s probably the artificial colour in the paint to make it white. Probably why it’s not listed
According to Krylon MSDS the titanium dioxide is less than or equal to 10% by weight
most white paint uses titanium oxide as pigment
Yeah I think it's a given, that's why they don't list it
it's absurdly abundant and cheap, and it's been around as the white pigment of choice in paints for literally centuries
I am curious, what is the hammer you are using at the 8:50 mark? I am fairly new at smithing but I need something bigger. I love the look of that hammer. It has some heft to it too.
Great result with the paint. Is it specifically the white that has the TiO2?
wax or some type of oil will stop your punch from sticking
Hey a paint that has titanium dioxide is rustoleum camouflage like 5 bucks a can
Badass!!! That’s gonna be deadly! I recently made a Type D Viking axe from a 3x3x5 canister that was a fun project. I tried to mimic wrought iron. I put that build on my channel.🔥⚒💪🏻
Link for that???
Found it
👍looking awesome already can't wait to see the finished product. Quick question. Could a person make a billet of ball bearing pattern welded Damascus draw it down and stack it and weld that? Would that be pushing the chances of inclusions? Just a thought.
That would work fine, you would have a pattern more of lines
Yessssssssssss
After ask what is the starting dimensions of your billet? I want to make a forest axe, specifically a Swedish pattern first axe, I'll be doing it by hand tho lol
I just use stainless tube and fold the ends shut.
I did the same until I found out if the can gets to hot it will weld. So I started oxidizing the stainless first. No problem since. I probably run my forge a little to hot aswell. It will hit 2800* wide open. 😂
Can you do washers next? That
Have you tried VHT Header paint?
if you want titanium dioxide you might try sunscreen, the thick white pasty stuff
queaston for you. could you make a katakana sword out of the ball bearings outer jacket and fold them 12 to 13 times. and do the same for mild steel for the inner jacket ??
The foil open the can side ways it works better
Im just starting to get into blacksmithing is there any tips for me?
What hydraulic press are you using? I can't seem to find a decent one.
I built this one
Try high temp paint
Would using a stainless steel can work? Obviously you'd need a tig welder to weld the can though.
I've been told it works great
Trying using a stainless steel can they never stick
So I love watching these videos but can someone explain to me how even when super heated like they are that the bearings kind of don’t just fall apart,is the metal powder that fills in the gaps like a “glue” so to speak?? I just don’t understand,like is there an advantage to folding it multiple
Times to make sure there all together properly
The bearings and powdered steel is all welded together, with the heat and pressure. Thanks for watching!
Can you please post these videos to Rumble as well? Thanks!
I have some of my videos up on Rumble
Why not drift with the press?
Did you press that cap in to compress the powder and bearings?
No, I just had extra can
@@FireCreekForge if you had compressed it would it make any difference in how it would forge
@@kubby5189 vibrating the can does that for the most part, I don't know how much more you could compress it
@@FireCreekForge I dont know really it kinda just something that popped in my head but if I was able to do that I'd probably press it as much as I could just to see what happens
I mean at this point your amazon suggestions must be nothing but ball bearings packs lol
Lol. Ebay actually..
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
why not drill a 1/16th hole anyway?
Just because I knew I had holes, in this case
@
Fire Creek Forge did you win fif
Yes
@@FireCreekForge nice congrats
@@josephwaldner7752 thanks!
All "white" paint has titanium dioxide in it.
I have seen some that contain zinc, but don't know if that's instead of or in addition to titanium dioxide
@@FireCreekForge I'll bet it's in addition to, to cut their costs
Why not use a stainless steel can?
Cost of stainless steel would be my guess.
Harder to get
Instead of the stainless steel foil why not just use stainless steel tubing.
Im guessing one reason is it's more expensive, both the tubing and welding it. I'm not entirely sure but I think stainless electrodes exist for stick welding but are probably more expensive, and if not used for anything else, are a big expense, and a tig welder might not be in his arsenal, and again- if he has no use for it other than welding the canister... Probably doesn't justify the price
@@davidl6566 you don't need a stick welder to weld stainless it can be done with a small mig welder. Cost is a factor though. But the foil can be that cheap either.
Can you make me a thrower for an axe league amd how much
Do you mean with the ball bearing damascus?
Or stop using a square tube.
hello, I am Maftouh from Khouribga in Morocco can you send me a Damascus knife I would be grateful to you thank you very much I await your response.
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