' do you need to update your cooling ? ' .. another question , do people really need 2 light-bars & a pair of 200mm spotlights blocking most of the air-flow ??
I wouldn’t worry about the situation where you get most of the cooling through speed that you drive onroad. If you do that you won’t need that upgrade. It’s important for off-road use where you do slower speeds and where those spoties don’t have a big impact on airflow.
I have found that it’s best not to impede airflow to the cooling system and engine bay at all if possible. Save money, same benefit, remove any obstructions to your radiator and engine bay in general.
Was finding my 4wd getting hot on the freeway. Mate said remove the lights. I did. Problem solved! Now I got a lightbar to replace the spoties that doesn't obstruct the radiator this time.
I know a lot of people will argue this but -EGTs are nowhere nearly as big of a deal as people make them out to be… What WILL kill a diesel engine is poor AFRs & poor injectors (spray pattern etc). Those two things directly affect the way a motor runs. EGTs are not an accurate indicator of your engines health as there is way too many variables that effect the accuracy of the readings you get. If a sensor is placed little too far to the left or little too far to the right of the “ideal” spot on a dump pipe, then your readings can be + or - 200 degrees. How accurate is that? What makes one spot more ideal than the other? Why do literally millions of people run vehicles without them and not cook their motors? Ronny even mentioned that modern vehicles with DPFs throw all that info he said out the window as there’s too many sensors. I’ve run MANY 4wds without an EGT gauge and then as of the last 8 years when all this EGT hype took off, started running one just to prove to people that all this talk of “melting pistons” is rubbish and so far I’ve yet to “cook” a motor no matter how hard I try.
@@lastknownlocation8760 to see how hard your engine is working is one thing, however to say that high EGTs can damage engines or “melt pistons” as everyone says is not true and not proven. As I said it’s not accurate because your engine can “appear” to work hard but if you shift the probe little to the left or right then all of a sudden your engine isn’t working as hard? It’s very inaccurate
It's a fallacy to assume that because y is true then x. Not all engines are created equal, even within a production run there are differences. Can high egts melt an engine, piston etc yes. Does it happen often on stock or mildly modified engines, no. I've seen it happen on large trucks working hard in soft sand at very heavy loads taking drilling hardware into the Simpson. Could it have been solved with a bigger intercooler, could it have happened because of injectors etc probably. Most mechanics doing a rebuild or an engine swap wouldn't have the knowledge to really know with certainty what caused the extreme temps.
Once you get a feel for the engine and can keep an eye on the EGT’s it’s easy to back off a little to reduce the heat. Pyrometers help to reduce the rate of turbo failures in my opinion. We place the probe as close as possible to the turbo in the middle of the pipe. It won’t read 700 degrees if the air is 500. Placed back further it may read the other way around. But it’s still good to know when your turbo is possibly working too hard and getting closer to cracking.
@@JimmyStewpot because “it’s impossible to assume that y is true because of x” and that “not all engines are created equal” - you can’t compare a road train or any large truck to the baby motors in 4wds. I’ve never ever seen or had anyone show or prove that high EGTs melt pistons in 4wds
I just put a heavy duty fan clutch on my I6 jeep. Got it out of a V8 grand Cherokee and I must say I'm so glad I did. Super cheap and easy and it really keeps my temperature under control. I just drove from Vegas yesterday in 110° weather (43 Celsius) AC on, didn't baby it, and she never got above 210°. Do not overlook your fan clutch in fact, I'd say if your car is a little older like my 2006, change your fan clutch for a new factory one or upgrade. You will lose mpg, you will hear a louder fan drone and maybe lose a pony or 2. I did notice my hood wasn't scorching hot. keeping her cool is everything.
Hey Ronny! Have you ever considered installing hi-temp silicone coolant heater hoses? Here in the UsA they're fitted to emergency vehicles, like ambulances where failure is NOT an option. Same stuff as used on some turbocharger plumbing.
From a technical pov the welded radiator can be way stronger. My aftermarket pressed one was leaking after 11 months - for sure due to bad quality. That is what makes the difference. if you need to relay on your vehicle - no compromise here. on my truck I have a bronze one, custom welded. The guy (40 years in business or so 😉) said that the new radiator mesh will be way better cooling than the old stock, and cost effective produced one. egt gage values depend on where you put the sensor! So this is not sooo simple. But I agree it is the most important value (after engine oil). A bigger down pipe (if turbo) can help with that as well! one should not underestimate that simple solution.
I have an 80 series non turbo and fitted an additional fan (electric) it works off a thermostat. The standard fan and the electric fan work very well. I do a lot of remote touring with a trailer .The temp. gauge never goes higher than half way. Having now travelled over 500,00 K's I am on my third radiator and second electric fan (which is wired up with via a relay).For what it is worth I also use the genuine toyota red coloured radiator coolant and change it every 2 years. Thank you Ronny for sharing your substantial expertise.
I have been watching you from 🇨🇦for a few years and I enjoy your videos. I have learned quite a bit on off-roading thanks to your own experience and tips! Keep up the good work! 👍
Thats interesting to compare, I know a lot of American vehicles in the states have T-Stats set at 195F (90.5C) or 210F (98.88C) before they will open. My wife's car, 2008 Ford Focus, for some odd reason doesn't even kick on the cooling fan till 220F (104.4C) which is a bit hot for my taste and it was JUST replaced with all new OEM stuff. My Toyota Tacoma runs within the temp range you mentioned though, generally speaking. Highway speeds it sits at 185F to 195F. Stop and go traffic it hits 200F or maybe 205F, but that was last year when it was 110F outside.
Regarding the EGT temps, i only come across this with the work I do on turbines and superheated steam. The composition of the steel degrades over 550DegC, your essentially reforming the steel at that temperature - long story short you are corroding and weakening the steel - it will still work but for how long. Most manufacturers will cap the rated temp to about 400-450degc for carbon steel products at pressure. So at 500degC+ you are already pushing the limit. You would think that manufacturers have considered this and provided an engineered solution. They have, but instead of buying a turbo for a few grand, you would be looking at a turbo in the tens of thousands when looking at increasing the rated temperature of the turbo hence why these stay for example carbon steel vs alloy. If your mate says that he runs his EGT’s at 600degC plus with no worries, he either has a very expensive alloy turbo and engine block, or he has some nice expenses coming his way.
The egt temperature a engine can handle depends heavily on the outlet valves, gas turbo engines go far above 700 without any problems. Always try to get the exhaust manifold and downpipe isolated, if possible the turbo also. It will help getting the gas out faster and lowers the engine temp... Very coarsely its a whole topic on its own...
Steel degrades over 500degC. You would need to look at an alloy material to last at that temp. The manufacturer would most likely not provide warranty for temps exceeding 450DegC.
Hello Ronny & everyone else! Please feel free to join in, i guess i'm not the only one in this situation. I haven't modified my (diesel) engine, nor do i intend to do so, because i am satisfied with the amount of power. The engine in question is a 2016 european spec, standard DPF, etc. My question is as follows: should i ever worry about EGT's if i never modify it?
The way I look at it, is don't obstruct your radiator, I went for a light bar instead of giant spotties, the rad is obstructed by the bar work enough as it is, if more power and torque from stock and stay cool is what you want, open ya wallet and prepare for a lot of custom mods to fit stuff in.
Great video Ronny the addition to consider along with a upgraded radiator is a high performance thermostat which can help move the coolant through the new radiator earlier to help maintain coolant temps ✌️
Bigger intercooler = cooler air = more oxygen per volume of air = bigger bang = more heat. When I upgraded my intercooler to a big front mount it ran cooler when not under much load (normal driving around town), however when I put my boot in it has more power and torque, and EGTs can increase more than before the bigger intercooler. It has a greater potential for producing heat due to it making more power, and therefore more heat.
79 looks great mate, just the right amount of red there if you ask me. Even stock systems... dont run at stock cooling after such time even with good maintenance. Great video. Cheers
If your piping it larger for the inter cooler, keep some extra flex boots for the joints. I blew one on my banks kit for my Cummins but due to the size of the piping, 3-4 month wait to get a replacement. I had a ton of factory sizes silicone joints but none that were larger.
Hi Ronny, you should mention that you are referencing post dump EGT temps as this could cause panic in a few people who don't know there's a 200 degree difference pre and post :) I have a mighty kettle and spent a few dolllaroos trying to drop my running temps down from 97 degrees. In the end removing my spotlights made the biggest individual difference of 5 degrees. I know this is a band-aid solution but it combats the poor cooling system and is staying that way.
EGT's are an interesting discussion, with diesels its also dependent on what metal your engines made from. Cast iron block/head engines will generally handle a lot higher egt's for longer than one with cast iron block/alloy head or a complete alloy engine. I have had my 2.4 diesel Turbo surf motor hang around 850 for a good while a few times and thats with my probe in the dump pipe (which makes a difference) in saying that, that engine is tired anyway, and so I wasnt too worried. Very good video
Thanks for the lesson. Will look for an EGT for my Gen4 Jimny. Driving up very steep mountains in Central America worries me a bit and an EGT should be useful even though my Jimny is stock under the bonnet. - As you said, between the lines, it’s an insurance item, a safety item.
Ronny. I can understand the benefits of diesel, but it always seems that, with heavier vehicles especially, there needs to be a lot of modification done to boost power, efficiency and marginal fuel economy over a petrol vehicle. Why go through the time and money when petrol stock vehicles can produce the same or better power stock and, with new technologies, can have close to the same fuel economy? Why go through all the trouble? By the way, what is the fuel economy on this beast after all the mods? 🤠
you made a mistake, while the temp range given is correct for all vehicles ever made anything made in the last 20-30yrs will be at the higher end of the scale (or higher) for emissions and to reduce wear. because the hotter you run the motor without boiling the less engine wear you will have. due to the pressurised system the boiling point is raised above the normal 100*c boiling point to 120-125c. so running around the 90-100*c range is normal and anything above that without boiling is ok. running below the 90*c mark will just mean extra engine wear and with an efi petrol running below standard operating temp can increase fuel consumption through the roof as it remains in open loop warm up cycle (essentially like driving around with the choke on) an ideal cooling system is consistently at operating temperature, cooler is not better
Being someone who builds and overclocks computers for fun, I've never understood the idea of getting more power and torque or longevity from an engine without cooling upgrades. In computers you'd be absolutely mad to push the limits without major cooling upgrades. I can't see why it shouldn't be the same for engines
Because it’s not nearly the same? A stock cooler vs even a cooler master 212 let alone a 240/360mm water cooled rad is a massive difference. There is also a lot of overhead in a car . It’s also not so easy to significantly upgrade the cooling system in a car
It's mostly the same, most tunes or bigger turbos or more PSI come with more fuel, increasing heat. Better cooling is then needed if you want to keep the temps the same. However an engine could sustain 50C more for long periods where as a PC will throttle or die so most people just don't bother.
Despite this video, my experience so far has been not to change what was designed by the car's manufacturer. Only service earlier and with original material. I have used 3rd party updates twice, and both times it made issues. I have a FJ (no intercooler) and its temperature is always sitting where it should sit. Maybe I haven't pushed it that much (I don't tow), but still I'll be very cautious changing the original parts. Having said that, the part about monitoring with an OBD 2 and EGT monitor was useful. So, thanks for your interesting videos, because I personally learnt a lot from you on how to correctly look after my 4WD.
Hi Ronny, Please spell the beans ! How much was the radiator and intercooler ? Amongst the all the new rubber hose did you install a new high performance waterpump and thermostat ?? Cheers
Any Ranger or BT50 owner (3.2 straight five diesel) that doesn't upgrade their intercooler and add a transmission cooler, add a transmission thermostat bypass, and install a full flow thermostat control valve, and remove and bypass the factory heat exchanger for towing (or heavy sand work) ... is asking for trouble. Those costs are nowhere near the 'Toyota tax'. Then add a pre-filter and a catch can. Research works.
Hi Ronnie, Where do you have your EGT probe fitted? I had mine fitted 100mm after the dump pipe and would see max 500c (79 series). I’ve now moved it into the Crossover Pipe (thick walled stainless upgraded pipe) and will see 700c. Can pretty much confirm after a few weeks now that the difference across the turbo is almost exactly 200c. By having it here the response is twice as quick, the turbo must hold a bit of heat for a few seconds longer, the needle now almost moves with the pedal - no delay in seeing what it is doing. For reference I’m running a tune, 4” exhaust and stock intercooler with Top Mounted Thermo Fans. Just thought this would be good information for others out there as I could never find confirmed information about how hot the temps will be at the manifolds on these motors. Agree with your maximum temperature range. Highly recommend getting the probe moved pre-turbo.
Sold it before I could get to that. Would have taken too long to get it all sorted with paperwork and the troopy popped up during that time so I made a call and got rid of it
@@bernardrr There is literally hundreds of thousands of welded aluminum ships on the planets oceans in rough seas not having any problems, It's perfectly fine to weld and strong as.
I should have said thin-sheet Al welding. Almost anything can ruin a weld a create a pinhole. A friend joked that if someone sneezed in the next building it would affect his welds. The margin of error is tiny. Thicker stock is much easier to weld.
Agree with the aluminum radiator point. Bought a welded aluminum radiator for my HZJ75 and it failed 3 months later. Customer service was shit and ended up going back to OEM.
Ronny, you went to a lot of effort to discuss EGTs...but left out one vital aspect. The location of the thermocouple makes a HUGE DIFFERENCE to the readings. With my Chevy silverado 3500 plus 3.5t van, I'm sitting at around 8.3 tonne all up. I drilled and tapped the driver's side exhaust manifold to mount the thermocouple and my EGTs get to around 650⁰c on long uphill sections at 100 klicks. However, I have a feeling you and most others would be measuring your EGTs post-turbo....which is significantly cooler and not as good really.
I agree with everything you are saying mate. It's difficult to cover all vehicles and different locations of pre and post. Using the 70 series as an example I was heavily using the temps from that ect. Also it kinda suits most vehicles i.e. Toyotas, Nissans, Jeeps but not all vehicles are the same.
If you don't mind me asking what do you do for work? I'm 18 and looking for a career path....you seem to be sitting quite comfortably 🤣 Cheers, I'm west Aussie also 👌
Well a quick search would say that a cross country intercooler is around the $2400 mark and abd PWR radiator is around the $1300 mark just for those 2 parts alone with no install. It's definitely expensive haha
Just jumping in on the Water Temp comment... There are plenty of cars where the normal water temperature is over 100. Mostly European cars. I know some to run as hot as 115 under normal operation. Definitely not good for the car.
Ronny - your 78 is euqipped with a blue stripe front window? do you have me a part number? Over here in europe Toyota only delivers clear windows with part number Toyota 5611160A90 GLASS, WINDSHIELD 29.783 kg Any idea?
I can't help noticing there was no explanation of WHY a welded aluminium radiator should be avoided. As a rule, when people are telling you to avoid things, they're happy to provide reasons why their opinion should be trusted. When people are telling you things because "it's what they've heard", I tend to think it's simply recieved wisdom or urban myth. Not saying that IS the case here. Just that failing to provide reasons undermines the credibility of the advice. If there ARE good reasons to avoid a good quality welded aluminium radiator, I'd be interested to hear them.
the reason is most likely electrolysis, you need to make sure a welded radiator is properly grounded with an earth strap to the chassis as the coolant can carry an electrical current if other devices on the vehicle aren't properly earthed
@@greghajdu2569 If that was the case it should just come with zinc annodes. I drive 30 year old welded aluminum ships that get a pounding in seas and nothing has corroded when looked after, also i mentioned the pounding as they haven't cracked either. I would be keen to hear the "WHY" as well.
I’d like to know the real reason as well. I can only speculate that the pressed radiators will flex a little more compared to a solidly welded one. Radiators do expand and contract a fair bit so the welds May crack.
@@oggyoggy1299 correct but the a 4 different models. Sportline, touring, traveller and vario. All are different sizes. Just wondering which one he used and fits best.
aluminium is less efficient (conductive) and doesn't last as long as copper brass,. aluminium is used by oem manufacturers now because it's cheaper, lighter and contains no lead. a copper brass radiator is a cooling upgrade over aluminium especially where the physical size of the radiator is limited by available space and you can't just fit a larger or thicker aluminium radiator for increased efficiency over the stock radiator.
@@ericpowers2469 - if you are having cooling problems - in an otherwise perfectly running vehicle - you can try 60/40 water/antifreeze and increase your cooling capacity
![Is Your Radiator Too BIG? [TECH TALK]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HVvRUarXNEE/mqdefault.jpg)
' do you need to update your cooling ? ' .. another question , do people really need 2 light-bars & a pair of 200mm spotlights blocking most of the air-flow ??
well played
I wouldn’t worry about the situation where you get most of the cooling through speed that you drive onroad. If you do that you won’t need that upgrade. It’s important for off-road use where you do slower speeds and where those spoties don’t have a big impact on airflow.
I have found that it’s best not to impede airflow to the cooling system and engine bay at all if possible. Save money, same benefit, remove any obstructions to your radiator and engine bay in general.
Was finding my 4wd getting hot on the freeway. Mate said remove the lights. I did. Problem solved! Now I got a lightbar to replace the spoties that doesn't obstruct the radiator this time.
@@aslkdfjhg how large are the light's and what car. Seems to have an under spec cooling system in conjunction with lights.
I know a lot of people will argue this but -EGTs are nowhere nearly as big of a deal as people make them out to be… What WILL kill a diesel engine is poor AFRs & poor injectors (spray pattern etc). Those two things directly affect the way a motor runs. EGTs are not an accurate indicator of your engines health as there is way too many variables that effect the accuracy of the readings you get. If a sensor is placed little too far to the left or little too far to the right of the “ideal” spot on a dump pipe, then your readings can be + or - 200 degrees. How accurate is that? What makes one spot more ideal than the other? Why do literally millions of people run vehicles without them and not cook their motors? Ronny even mentioned that modern vehicles with DPFs throw all that info he said out the window as there’s too many sensors. I’ve run MANY 4wds without an EGT gauge and then as of the last 8 years when all this EGT hype took off, started running one just to prove to people that all this talk of “melting pistons” is rubbish and so far I’ve yet to “cook” a motor no matter how hard I try.
I disagree. We’ve been running them in trucks for over 30 years and it’s a great way to see how hard your engine is working.
@@lastknownlocation8760 to see how hard your engine is working is one thing, however to say that high EGTs can damage engines or “melt pistons” as everyone says is not true and not proven. As I said it’s not accurate because your engine can “appear” to work hard but if you shift the probe little to the left or right then all of a sudden your engine isn’t working as hard? It’s very inaccurate
It's a fallacy to assume that because y is true then x. Not all engines are created equal, even within a production run there are differences.
Can high egts melt an engine, piston etc yes. Does it happen often on stock or mildly modified engines, no. I've seen it happen on large trucks working hard in soft sand at very heavy loads taking drilling hardware into the Simpson. Could it have been solved with a bigger intercooler, could it have happened because of injectors etc probably. Most mechanics doing a rebuild or an engine swap wouldn't have the knowledge to really know with certainty what caused the extreme temps.
Once you get a feel for the engine and can keep an eye on the EGT’s it’s easy to back off a little to reduce the heat. Pyrometers help to reduce the rate of turbo failures in my opinion.
We place the probe as close as possible to the turbo in the middle of the pipe. It won’t read 700 degrees if the air is 500. Placed back further it may read the other way around. But it’s still good to know when your turbo is possibly working too hard and getting closer to cracking.
@@JimmyStewpot because “it’s impossible to assume that y is true because of x” and that “not all engines are created equal” - you can’t compare a road train or any large truck to the baby motors in 4wds. I’ve never ever seen or had anyone show or prove that high EGTs melt pistons in 4wds
I just put a heavy duty fan clutch on my I6 jeep. Got it out of a V8 grand Cherokee and I must say I'm so glad I did. Super cheap and easy and it really keeps my temperature under control. I just drove from Vegas yesterday in 110° weather (43 Celsius) AC on, didn't baby it, and she never got above 210°. Do not overlook your fan clutch in fact, I'd say if your car is a little older like my 2006, change your fan clutch for a new factory one or upgrade. You will lose mpg, you will hear a louder fan drone and maybe lose a pony or 2. I did notice my hood wasn't scorching hot. keeping her cool is everything.
How much cooler would it run without the spotlights?
If it’s got a thermostat, probably no difference
@@chasp_0784 smart alec answer. You know what he means is would the radiators work more efficiently without the spotties. And yes they do.
Hey Ronny! Have you ever considered installing hi-temp silicone coolant heater hoses? Here in the UsA they're fitted to emergency vehicles, like ambulances where failure is NOT an option. Same stuff as used on some turbocharger plumbing.
From a technical pov the welded radiator can be way stronger.
My aftermarket pressed one was leaking after 11 months - for sure due to bad quality. That is what makes the difference. if you need to relay on your vehicle - no compromise here.
on my truck I have a bronze one, custom welded. The guy (40 years in business or so 😉) said that the new radiator mesh will be way better cooling than the old stock, and cost effective produced one.
egt gage values depend on where you put the sensor! So this is not sooo simple. But I agree it is the most important value (after engine oil). A bigger down pipe (if turbo) can help with that as well! one should not underestimate that simple solution.
I can't wait for episodes on the 78!!!!
So excited man
I have an 80 series non turbo and fitted an additional fan (electric) it works off a thermostat. The standard fan and the electric fan work very well. I do a lot of remote touring with a trailer .The temp. gauge never goes higher than half way. Having now travelled over 500,00 K's I am on my third radiator and second electric fan (which is wired up with via a relay).For what it is worth I also use the genuine toyota red coloured radiator coolant and change it every 2 years.
Thank you Ronny for sharing your substantial expertise.
I have been watching you from 🇨🇦for a few years and I enjoy your videos. I have learned quite a bit on off-roading thanks to your own experience and tips! Keep up the good work! 👍
Thats interesting to compare, I know a lot of American vehicles in the states have T-Stats set at 195F (90.5C) or 210F (98.88C) before they will open.
My wife's car, 2008 Ford Focus, for some odd reason doesn't even kick on the cooling fan till 220F (104.4C) which is a bit hot for my taste and it was JUST replaced with all new OEM stuff.
My Toyota Tacoma runs within the temp range you mentioned though, generally speaking.
Highway speeds it sits at 185F to 195F.
Stop and go traffic it hits 200F or maybe 205F, but that was last year when it was 110F outside.
Regarding the EGT temps, i only come across this with the work I do on turbines and superheated steam.
The composition of the steel degrades over 550DegC, your essentially reforming the steel at that temperature - long story short you are corroding and weakening the steel - it will still work but for how long.
Most manufacturers will cap the rated temp to about 400-450degc for carbon steel products at pressure. So at 500degC+ you are already pushing the limit.
You would think that manufacturers have considered this and provided an engineered solution. They have, but instead of buying a turbo for a few grand, you would be looking at a turbo in the tens of thousands when looking at increasing the rated temperature of the turbo hence why these stay for example carbon steel vs alloy.
If your mate says that he runs his EGT’s at 600degC plus with no worries, he either has a very expensive alloy turbo and engine block, or he has some nice expenses coming his way.
The egt temperature a engine can handle depends heavily on the outlet valves, gas turbo engines go far above 700 without any problems. Always try to get the exhaust manifold and downpipe isolated, if possible the turbo also. It will help getting the gas out faster and lowers the engine temp... Very coarsely its a whole topic on its own...
Steel degrades over 500degC. You would need to look at an alloy material to last at that temp. The manufacturer would most likely not provide warranty for temps exceeding 450DegC.
@@reubs91 my car regularly sees 550 egt when Towing temp measured at the dpf.
Hello Ronny & everyone else! Please feel free to join in, i guess i'm not the only one in this situation.
I haven't modified my (diesel) engine, nor do i intend to do so, because i am satisfied with the amount of power. The engine in question is a 2016 european spec, standard DPF, etc. My question is as follows: should i ever worry about EGT's if i never modify it?
The way I look at it, is don't obstruct your radiator, I went for a light bar instead of giant spotties, the rad is obstructed by the bar work enough as it is, if more power and torque from stock and stay cool is what you want, open ya wallet and prepare for a lot of custom mods to fit stuff in.
Yes an egt and scan gauge is definitely on the cards, and are very important gauges. Thanks for a rippa vid.
hey Ronny, if you want better cooling get rid of the lights blocking the air flow to your radiator.
Great video Ronny the addition to consider along with a upgraded radiator is a high performance thermostat which can help move the coolant through the new radiator earlier to help maintain coolant temps ✌️
Rony i got a Idea show us how to change tire on a rim in the bush with minimum tools thanks
Bigger intercooler = cooler air = more oxygen per volume of air = bigger bang = more heat.
When I upgraded my intercooler to a big front mount it ran cooler when not under much load (normal driving around town), however when I put my boot in it has more power and torque, and EGTs can increase more than before the bigger intercooler. It has a greater potential for producing heat due to it making more power, and therefore more heat.
79 looks great mate, just the right amount of red there if you ask me. Even stock systems... dont run at stock cooling after such time even with good maintenance. Great video. Cheers
Very informative! Scan Guage is my next mod for sure. Excellent video!
If your piping it larger for the inter cooler, keep some extra flex boots for the joints. I blew one on my banks kit for my Cummins but due to the size of the piping, 3-4 month wait to get a replacement. I had a ton of factory sizes silicone joints but none that were larger.
Hi Ronny, you should mention that you are referencing post dump EGT temps as this could cause panic in a few people who don't know there's a 200 degree difference pre and post :) I have a mighty kettle and spent a few dolllaroos trying to drop my running temps down from 97 degrees. In the end removing my spotlights made the biggest individual difference of 5 degrees. I know this is a band-aid solution but it combats the poor cooling system and is staying that way.
I also have a "forever vehicle". I have 4x the money in parts than I paid for it.
EGT's are an interesting discussion, with diesels its also dependent on what metal your engines made from. Cast iron block/head engines will generally handle a lot higher egt's for longer than one with cast iron block/alloy head or a complete alloy engine. I have had my 2.4 diesel Turbo surf motor hang around 850 for a good while a few times and thats with my probe in the dump pipe (which makes a difference) in saying that, that engine is tired anyway, and so I wasnt too worried. Very good video
Is your engine a 2LTE?
Always love and appreciate the honesty Ronny!
Thanks for the lesson.
Will look for an EGT for my Gen4 Jimny. Driving up very steep mountains in Central America worries me a bit and an EGT should be useful even though my Jimny is stock under the bonnet. - As you said, between the lines, it’s an insurance item, a safety item.
Ronny. I can understand the benefits of diesel, but it always seems that, with heavier vehicles especially, there needs to be a lot of modification done to boost power, efficiency and marginal fuel economy over a petrol vehicle. Why go through the time and money when petrol stock vehicles can produce the same or better power stock and, with new technologies, can have close to the same fuel economy? Why go through all the trouble? By the way, what is the fuel economy on this beast after all the mods? 🤠
Deleting your egr will also lower you temps a few degrees
Then there's the TD owners cruising the highways with a brisk 130c running temp.
Yeah and still going strong 500k km later :)
You need 1 of my Custom Cliffy hood scoops,,,they let ALL heat up an out,,,
you made a mistake, while the temp range given is correct for all vehicles ever made anything made in the last 20-30yrs will be at the higher end of the scale (or higher) for emissions and to reduce wear. because the hotter you run the motor without boiling the less engine wear you will have.
due to the pressurised system the boiling point is raised above the normal 100*c boiling point to 120-125c. so running around the 90-100*c range is normal and anything above that without boiling is ok. running below the 90*c mark will just mean extra engine wear and with an efi petrol running below standard operating temp can increase fuel consumption through the roof as it remains in open loop warm up cycle (essentially like driving around with the choke on)
an ideal cooling system is consistently at operating temperature, cooler is not better
Being someone who builds and overclocks computers for fun, I've never understood the idea of getting more power and torque or longevity from an engine without cooling upgrades. In computers you'd be absolutely mad to push the limits without major cooling upgrades. I can't see why it shouldn't be the same for engines
Because it’s not nearly the same? A stock cooler vs even a cooler master 212 let alone a 240/360mm water cooled rad is a massive difference. There is also a lot of overhead in a car . It’s also not so easy to significantly upgrade the cooling system in a car
It's mostly the same, most tunes or bigger turbos or more PSI come with more fuel, increasing heat. Better cooling is then needed if you want to keep the temps the same.
However an engine could sustain 50C more for long periods where as a PC will throttle or die so most people just don't bother.
Maybe run sub 10 psi on the sand Inc trailer . I never have heat issues she tows the boat over wa soft sand at idle in most spots. At 6psi
Despite this video, my experience so far has been not to change what was designed by the car's manufacturer. Only service earlier and with original material. I have used 3rd party updates twice, and both times it made issues.
I have a FJ (no intercooler) and its temperature is always sitting where it should sit. Maybe I haven't pushed it that much (I don't tow), but still I'll be very cautious changing the original parts.
Having said that, the part about monitoring with an OBD 2 and EGT monitor was useful. So, thanks for your interesting videos, because I personally learnt a lot from you on how to correctly look after my 4WD.
Worth mentioning Pre/Post turbo EGT sensor, sorry if you did and I missed it.
Hi Ronny,
Please spell the beans !
How much was the radiator and intercooler ?
Amongst the all the new rubber hose did you install a new high performance waterpump and thermostat ??
Cheers
the best thing you can do for your 4by is fit the biggest pwr intercooler and radiator it can fit.
Any Ranger or BT50 owner (3.2 straight five diesel) that doesn't upgrade their intercooler and add a transmission cooler, add a transmission thermostat bypass, and install a full flow thermostat control valve, and remove and bypass the factory heat exchanger for towing (or heavy sand work) ... is asking for trouble.
Those costs are nowhere near the 'Toyota tax'.
Then add a pre-filter and a catch can.
Research works.
currently busy upgrading my cooling system
Did the intercooler assist in the lower egts. Or is it more to do with the thermo fans you are now running? Love the channel excellent work
Awesome video mate. Thank you
Thank you for your insight. Great video
Hi Ronnie,
Where do you have your EGT probe fitted?
I had mine fitted 100mm after the dump pipe and would see max 500c (79 series). I’ve now moved it into the Crossover Pipe (thick walled stainless upgraded pipe) and will see 700c. Can pretty much confirm after a few weeks now that the difference across the turbo is almost exactly 200c.
By having it here the response is twice as quick, the turbo must hold a bit of heat for a few seconds longer, the needle now almost moves with the pedal - no delay in seeing what it is doing.
For reference I’m running a tune, 4” exhaust and stock intercooler with Top Mounted Thermo Fans. Just thought this would be good information for others out there as I could never find confirmed information about how hot the temps will be at the manifolds on these motors. Agree with your maximum temperature range. Highly recommend getting the probe moved pre-turbo.
Great episode Ronny, plenty of great information for me. Oh, what did you get your hat?
All you need now is fans for the intercooler
Ronny!
Did you make the weighbridge video of the luxy?????? Please man I never saw it
I was also waiting for it. No he hasn’t. I suspect the luxy was over gvm once loaded.
Sold it before I could get to that. Would have taken too long to get it all sorted with paperwork and the troopy popped up during that time so I made a call and got rid of it
Could you clarify a bit more on the pros and cons of welded aluminum radiators. I am unable to find any issues.
I’m guessing cracks on corrugations, which would only be from inferior welding.
Long story short: aluminum is really difficult to weld. Not an issue if Toyota is doing the welding, but aftermarket can be a gamble.
@@bernardrr There is literally hundreds of thousands of welded aluminum ships on the planets oceans in rough seas not having any problems, It's perfectly fine to weld and strong as.
I should have said thin-sheet Al welding. Almost anything can ruin a weld a create a pinhole. A friend joked that if someone sneezed in the next building it would affect his welds. The margin of error is tiny.
Thicker stock is much easier to weld.
Thanks Ronny. This vid was very timely for me.
Does installing a Snorkel help with lowering temperatures?
Love ya work bro. No mention about exhaust? I thought they cool it too?
Shouldn’t you get a tune after installing an inter cooler ? Then you would know any power gains etc
Hey Ronnie, have you ever done a stray current test on your coolant system? Can cause alot of wear to your engine coolant system if it's high.
Agree with the aluminum radiator point. Bought a welded aluminum radiator for my HZJ75 and it failed 3 months later. Customer service was shit and ended up going back to OEM.
Great video as usual Ronny! Why the seats shake so much? Do they rattle too?
Excellent content, thank you.
How about high flow water pump
Very informative
Wassup man, coming from Botswana 👋
@@repentfromsinfollowjesus2953 I’m from Zambia 🇿🇲
Top mount packages better, shorter plumbing, and also run less risk of putting a stick through it! Depends how many ponies u wanna run really.
Ronny, you went to a lot of effort to discuss EGTs...but left out one vital aspect.
The location of the thermocouple makes a HUGE DIFFERENCE to the readings.
With my Chevy silverado 3500 plus 3.5t van, I'm sitting at around 8.3 tonne all up.
I drilled and tapped the driver's side exhaust manifold to mount the thermocouple and my EGTs get to around 650⁰c on long uphill sections at 100 klicks.
However, I have a feeling you and most others would be measuring your EGTs post-turbo....which is significantly cooler and not as good really.
I agree with everything you are saying mate. It's difficult to cover all vehicles and different locations of pre and post. Using the 70 series as an example I was heavily using the temps from that ect. Also it kinda suits most vehicles i.e. Toyotas, Nissans, Jeeps but not all vehicles are the same.
Would love to see a review of your garmin overlander
Hey bro why does my 4x4 take long to disengage? Engaging is instant but when I go back to 2wd it takes a long time.
If you don't mind me asking what do you do for work? I'm 18 and looking for a career path....you seem to be sitting quite comfortably 🤣
Cheers, I'm west Aussie also 👌
Is intercooler different from transmission cooler?
You're covering your radiator with giant spotties. Get a slimline light bar and keep that air flowing through the radiator
Price… you keep mentioning the price of upgrading the intercooler and the radiator, why not say (ballpark) what they are…!?
Well a quick search would say that a cross country intercooler is around the $2400 mark and abd PWR radiator is around the $1300 mark just for those 2 parts alone with no install. It's definitely expensive haha
Forever vehicle i like that !
Toyota lc 79 👍
Have you ever tried the evans cooling products?
Your EGT temps, are they Fahrenheit or Celcius?
Celsius
Why welded no good?
Hey Ronny a bit off topic, do you still carry a high lift jack?
Just jumping in on the Water Temp comment... There are plenty of cars where the normal water temperature is over 100. Mostly European cars. I know some to run as hot as 115 under normal operation. Definitely not good for the car.
Always use genuine when you can, non genuine thermostat mate it overheat when under load going up a hill etc, genuine it didnt really bother it
Ronny - your 78 is euqipped with a blue stripe front window?
do you have me a part number?
Over here in europe Toyota only delivers clear windows with part number Toyota 5611160A90 GLASS, WINDSHIELD 29.783 kg
Any idea?
Where does one source the bonnet protector on your 79 Series?
I can't help noticing there was no explanation of WHY a welded aluminium radiator should be avoided.
As a rule, when people are telling you to avoid things, they're happy to provide reasons why their opinion should be trusted.
When people are telling you things because "it's what they've heard", I tend to think it's simply recieved wisdom or urban myth.
Not saying that IS the case here.
Just that failing to provide reasons undermines the credibility of the advice.
If there ARE good reasons to avoid a good quality welded aluminium radiator, I'd be interested to hear them.
the reason is most likely electrolysis, you need to make sure a welded radiator is properly grounded with an earth strap to the chassis as the coolant can carry an electrical current if other devices on the vehicle aren't properly earthed
@@greghajdu2569 that would apply to a pressed aluminium radiator as well.
I’d say it would be due to cracking at the welds
@@greghajdu2569 If that was the case it should just come with zinc annodes.
I drive 30 year old welded aluminum ships that get a pounding in seas and nothing has corroded when looked after, also i mentioned the pounding as they haven't cracked either.
I would be keen to hear the "WHY" as well.
I’d like to know the real reason as well. I can only speculate that the pressed radiators will flex a little more compared to a solidly welded one. Radiators do expand and contract a fair bit so the welds May crack.
U got someting for thé AC cooler??
TD 42 have left the chat
Would it be a good idea to put a cooler on an automatic transmission, even if you don't tow alot?
Yes, that trans fluid is going through the radiator, only so much heat is bled off, an aux cooler helps to move more heat
@@ericpowers2469 cheers Eric
100% especially if you do any low range sand work it makes a massive difference for your auto
What is the model of these seats? The fit perfectly! Cheers
The seats with scheel-mann written on them?
@@oggyoggy1299 correct but the a 4 different models. Sportline, touring, traveller and vario. All are different sizes. Just wondering which one he used and fits best.
aluminium is less efficient (conductive) and doesn't last as long as copper brass,. aluminium is used by oem manufacturers now because it's cheaper, lighter and contains no lead. a copper brass radiator is a cooling upgrade over aluminium especially where the physical size of the radiator is limited by available space and you can't just fit a larger or thicker aluminium radiator for increased efficiency over the stock radiator.
Sounds like a nissan zd30 600 plus egts
Why is ur passenger seat shaking so much?
Costs?
My nissan patrol got very hot beach driving, im going to do a 3" exhaust so i can get that egt fitted, any other ideas?
What engine?
ZD30
how did everyone find the new tv show ronny was in, big ryan mumford rkns it was cringey as hell
When should you upgrade an intercooler: when you want more powaaaaar 😛
Anyone here have a TD42? Or did you all not even bother watching? :p
Yep! 🙋♂️
you can run a higher percentage of water to help cooling
50/50 mix is better setup, not to mention in colder temps, greater risk of the water freezing
@@ericpowers2469 - if you are having cooling problems - in an otherwise perfectly running vehicle - you can try 60/40 water/antifreeze and increase your cooling capacity
TD42 owners have entered the chat
For us TD42 owners overheating is life