THE CLASSIC STYLE RULES FOR MEN - HOW TO INTERPRET THEM IN THE MODERN ERA
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- Опубликовано: 16 июл 2024
- When I became interested in dressing well as a young chap, I remember being bamboozled by older chaps, who spouted phrases like "Remember - no brown in town" at me when I stepped out in my finest attire. I became confused by these sayings and concerned that I was making a faux pa in my wardrobe choices.
But maturity and education has taught me a lot when it comes to the rules of mens style - and when it is suitable to bend those rules. In this video I share my observations to shortcut your own journey of understanding these confusing rules.
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It's easy to be the best dressed man in the room, when "men" today dress like 5 yr olds.
You are indeed correct - but it does stack the deck for us well dressed chaps!
@@TheChapsGuide Had 3 of them accost me at Wal-Mart last Sunday, because of the way I dress and because I'm a Trump supporter.
@@ulfricthorsson8347 you talk in riddles. What are you getting at? Whose talking about Trump?
Please send me your comment - carved in stone 👍🤗🤠
@ulfricthorsson8347 How did they know you're a Trump supporter? Were you wearing a red baseball cap or a big campaign button? Either of these would cancel out the style points you got from dressing well otherwise.
Hope you all enjoy this video. Its the product of a lifetime of paying attention to the rules of classic style - but never forget - rules can always be broken!!
Hello;
First thing I want to say is Thank you so much for creating this channel. Men need to know these things and nobody has addressed the issues of dressing properly I am a traditionalist and I like to dress business casual or formal when I’m not at work and I go out and about. To me dressing nice is an issue of respect for others and your self. I have a suggestion of 2 rules that I dress by. Don’t mix patterns. If I wear a pattern tie than I wear a solid shirt with it and the opposite A solid tie with a pattern shirt. The second one is I wear a light shirt with dark trousers or the opposite a dark shirt with light colored trousers. I believe theses 2 rules would be helpful to men. Again Thank you so much for investing your time to this. Best wishes.
Hello Sir, that's great advice about not mixing patterns 👍🏻
You're spot-on about the "too tight" suits, and they look especially silly (to me, at any rate) with just one button fastened on the jacket, under so much strain it looks ready to fly off at any moment
The suits were definitely cut far better in the 60's to my mind - think Connery in the Bond movies and you just about have perfection in my mind.
I sincerely hate the modern trend of having "slim fit" and "skinny fit" suits. It's a nightmare sifting through it all to find the regular or tailor fit suits.
@@TheChapsGuide do not forget Roger Moore in the flamboyant period - fit was their game 😂🤸🏻♀️
And often the jacket too short. Norman Wisdom comes to mind.
Rishi is the contemporary example. @@markywellsboy2182
Spot on Ash, hitting the nail on the head as usual. I can't abide the current trend of lets see who can look like the biggest slob in any situation, and the irony is these unfortunate men of all ages now, think nothing of spending a fortune on "fashion" brands trainers and tracksuits that just look tragic.
There is still a place for the smart chap in this slobbish world - in fact, we stand out even more proudly due to the descent in to tracksuits!!
It's a sad world when a man is about to go out for the evening, opens his wardrobe and thinks, "Home shirt....or away shirt?....It's an evening do with my wife, so home shirt it is!"
I think it was Oscar Wilde who said " you can never be overdressed or over educated " love it!
I admit, I am addicted to your videos after coming across your channel a few days ago. I love your tips and accent. I appreciate the information sir!
Thanks for sharing these rules. It's a good education when you're getting started in men's style. Happily I adhere to many of these rules naturally.
I always find, regarding cologne, that a subtle fragrance like Sandalwood from Taylors of Bond street are masculine and fresh and not overpowering either. Worth considering.
My pet hate on the button rule as well as the jacket (coat to a tailor) is men doing up the bottom button on their waistcoats. And it came from the King feeling so full after dinner that he undone button became trendy and stuck.
I did not know the historical reasoning behind the button tradition. Thanks for sharing.
Being best dressed also means wearing clothes that are clean and, in the case of suit trousers and flannels, properly pressed. Another thing I learnt is to wash your hands with soap and hot water and then thoroughly dry them before handling and putting on a tie. This helps prevent the natural oils, sweat and dirt on your fingers from soiling the tie fabric. Finally, because a smile can make such a difference, investing in regular professional dental care is essential. Additionally, flossing and brushing our teeth should always be part of our daily grooming routine before going out.
Some sound advice sir, thank you.
One tip regarding pocket squares: buy 3 with a paisley motive with for example 4 different colours and I'm sure one of these will go with any tie you want to wear 😎
An excellent suggestion and frugal in the long term as well.
Good video Ash, I like to re-watch videos like this, keeps some details fresh in the mind.
Tip number 13- the colour of the welt of the shoes should be always darker than the colour of the shoe, never lighter.
That's an interesting tip- but I'm not sure what to do with it?
Thank you, sir. I like that part about the tie and pocket handkerchiefs - that was useful.
Sound advice Ash. Your videos are very nice and informative.
Thanks for the video.
... Brown or burgundy (dark not tan) is the new black
Greetings from BCN,
Excellent tips!
Definitely the most informative video on the subject I've seen, love the location by the woods too. Thank you Chap!
Very informative video.. thanks for sharing. Edit: just wanted to add that ‘fit is king* rule is hard to follow in America. They prefer baggy suits which they say ‘is more comfortable’ to justify loose fit, as opposed to sharply tailored European suits.
You make a good point, I have noted many US-based chaps wearing rather ill-fitting suits. However, I stand by the principle that a well fitting suit is the most flattering garment a man will ever wear.
I live in Canada, personally I think the only suit worth wearing is the tailored British suit. 😅
There are very few British ads I’ve seen of men in suits that look smart. They’re mostly of I’ll fitting jackets that strain at the button causing an ugly stretch mark. The trousers of the suits are also so tight and half mast, they remind me of Max Wall.
Love your information.
Great video Ash. I cannot believe I was watching you in a short-sleeved summer shirt not that long ago. A very odd year 2020. Back in lockdown again, and time once more, to watch your video's and spruce up my shaves of the day and update my wardrobe.
Its been a weird year indeed and no sign of improvement yet. But we have faith that things will get better - and retreating to the warming comfort of classic style rules is my coping mechanism!
Thoroughly enjoy this channel. From New Zealand.
Great video, thank you.
I really admire your information and what you said about a white pocket square has always been my idea too. I think no other colour for pocket squares looks better than this. Moreover now l realize why l have always disliked light brown shoes on formal or nonformal occasions. Black is the best & for a real gentleman it will always remain the best..
Same with cardigans and waistcoats, always leave the bottom button undone.
I enjoyed this video with the sensible recommendations and I learned something new thank you again.
You are so welcome!
Thanks Ash!
Excellent video.
Thank you very much!
I love "brown" in town. That is, I love the English outdoor style even in the city as it is more classy than North American outdoor styles. Granted, the English outdoor style is not for business meetings but my over all life is casual. I am also a knife guy which is easier in Canada than UK, but today my black Casio Illuminator watch matches nicely with my Spyderco Stretch with black plastic handle like the watch. For more dressy outfits one can find a Buck Nobleman or the like. A knife is largely never pulled out in public but it is still nice to have a pocket tool match your other items and style level. Wonderful video of these classic tips. Dammit it feels good to be a chap. ;)
Good advice.
Thanks for watching!
Another great video.
My personal thoughts about lads wearing Track Suit trousers half way down their backside! I'd better keep quiet about.
Sadly trends seem to win over proper style these day's.
Excellent video again Ashley. Hey, when did hit the 1000 subs? Congratulations 👏 👏
It crept up on me a bit Jim, nothing changes really, just ticked off a milestone, but it was nice to get there in under a year. In fact, I've recorded a 1000 subs special shave to celebrate (on Wednesday). Hope you had a good Remembrance Sunday, bit weird this year. I sat at home watching it on the TV with my medals on. I must be an oddball!
I look forward to watching. Sunday was the same for me. Whitehall looked pitiful.
"You either have a beard - or you don't". Let that be a word of advice for all those beyond their fourties who for some obscure reason think that having a (greying!) stubble makes them look younger.
On a sidenote: your link ("Lean more about your host") does not work.
Sage advice for the unshaven indeed.
I always abide by the 4 S's of style before I leave the house
SUIT
SHOES
SENT
SMILE
Once I know that I have these points covered I am ready to chat on any eventuality
I think there are a few subtle differences in the style rules between the US and the UK. The "no brown in town" rule has not been part of American culture. The only place where black is de rigueur is with a tuxedo. Except for the men in a wedding party, it is rare to see anything but a tuxedo, by the way. A state dinner with the President calls for a tuxedo. And I prefer, as do many men, brown shoes with a Navy blue suit. More interesting.
as photographer going often in wedding or baptism and is the occasion most man ware sute most don t know how to buton jacket and iven if i tell them to have better photo , they don t folow my advice , and in most wedding i have tie the not of the groom making them i nice and simetrical double winser , and they end up with slopy 4 in hand made by some oncle , and i have find i white pce of cloth with small jollyrogers and ware that as my pocket sqare , lookss cool he he , ha
Socks with leather sandals go very well with slacks, spear point collar shirt and a sports jacket. To really carry off the look one should also wear a cravat and smoke a pipe.
Pure class
Is there a rule on what color suit is fashionable for the time of year? I've heard that typically in the summer we can wear brighter colored suits and the winter months we should wear the dark colors. Too, are the lighter tan, gray, and blue suits less formal?
I would steer towards the seasonal colours which always look best in the autumn and winter. Although - there is always room for an injection of colour to the wardrobe, but as you have mentioned, summer and spring are the time for the primary and bright colours, autumn and winter always prefer the more muted palette of rusty reds and forest greens.
Whilst I don't think the lighter colours are be definition less formal - certainly not if you reside in a warmer climate, but in the more sartorially advanced environments, such as the UK and mainland Europe, I would suggest that that navy and charcoal gray suits have the lions share of wear in formal situations. Understandable really, as the darker colours look for sombre and distinguished and are more favourable to the gentleman's figure in most cases. Hope that helps!
You mention David Niven as a "style icon" but I have seen him on several TV interviews breaking your "rule" re ties and pocket squares by wearing a shirt, tie and pocket square all made from the same material 🤔
If you can afford 400 dollar shoes you should be able to spend the extra 100 on the matching belt.
I wish this video existed about 10 years ago, back when I used to care about how I looked lol
Some double-breasted jackets are designed to be buttoned up with the bottom button only. It's called a 6 roll 1 or 6x1. Even the Duke of Windsor wore such a jacket.
Do you have any insight about the current style of TV personality’s and their guest appearing on camera with their tie loosely fashioned at the neck with the top button buttoned? I have to believe this is intentional.
Frankly, I regard the bottom button rule as silly. Often, on a windy or chilly day, I will fasten all buttons. If it's there and I need it, I will use it
I do too. It originated when a British King was too obese to be able to do up his bottom button, so the men around him left theirs undone too. On a double breasted blazer, I think it looks asymmetrical and a bit untidy.
I always thought that “brown” referred to tweed rather than leather.
I despise freak and woke fashion - yes my hair is longer but I like classical British style since childhood especially tweed jackets 🤗🤗🤗I love them and wool tons of wool 😂
I am a school teacher. I wear suits at all times. however most of colleagues dress casually. Do you think I am overdressing?
No sir - set the standard for others to follow!
Question: Would a black belt be acceptable with ox blood shoes? Or would you need an ox blood belt?
I think black would be mostly fine, unless the belt was particularly prominent within the outfit. If it was going to be the subject of a lot of attention, I would suggest matching the colours as closely as possible to suggest a loose 'match'.
@@TheChapsGuide Thank you!
I find I abhor the stubble style. To me it looks like a homeless street person in a suit. Grow a beard or do not. Great video.
In particular if you're well over 40 and putting on some weight in your face. Men tend to think that such a stubble hides your double chin but in reality they just look like a badly shaven hamster.
Even the Israeli millionaires like your reviews.
Hi Ash I tried emailing you to no avail what is an alternate email for your channel.
Regards,
Chris
Hi Chris, our email is: ash@chapsguide.co.uk
On the rule of dressing appropriately for the occasion. I worked for many years at a funeral home here in the states and can attest to the fact that some individuals have absolutely no clue how to dress. At a visitation, the older folks were for the most part well dressed. But the younger folks would show up in shorts, jeans, T shirts, flip flops, etc. which made me cringe. Unfortunately, this trend is creeping into every aspect of society. It is pathetic and disgraceful that people don’t care what they look like in public, even in churches it seems way too relaxed and casual. Good grief, if you go to church to worship God, think it may be a good idea to present yourself at your best. Watch the news on TV and the news people look like they walked in off the street, very non professional, but no one seems to care. End of rant.
I’m sorry, but buttons should be fastened or all left open. It looks unkept and even silly if you know the history of it. King Edward Vll was fat, and he unbuttoned it to make room for his belly. Now, I on the other hand have an athletic body and it flatters me better if I button up. It is appropriate to unbutton if you are seated or riding a horse or bicycle. Please break traditions that don’t apply. Thank you.
Clean shaven indicates you care about yourself. A beard is a sign of being unkempt.
20 min of talking head in a visual medium.