This video is part 2 of this drum restoration... Check out all the vids here and leave me a comment below. ruclips.net/p/PL4Yyz0u_dF6M0vpVGxLofwuiUo658SFVn
Best product for blacking out chrome hardware is from the automotive side of things...Duplicolor CHROME BLACK. Find at any auto parts store. Made for blacking out chrome wheels and other chrome automotive parts. About $18, comes in a two part kit - blacking, and clearcoat. No priming needed and it's very strong. It keeps the very shiny and metallic chrome look while getting a nice blacking effect. Lots of videos on RUclips with guys using on their wheels and other chrome parts.You can go from a shadow haze to full on black, just by the # of coats applied. I did all my hoops and lugs - SUPER EASY to use. AND, Duplicolor makes other colors for tinting chrome - I did my snare hoops and lugs in RED -- looks EPIC!
Ya Know... where were you two years ago when I was finishing these drums!? ...geez... lol I will definitely give that a try on the next build. Thanks for the info.
@@fletchlivesdaily348 The Chrome Black hasn't shown any wear so far (it's on the toms, so not so much for rim shots), and is very durable - of course it would be, because it's original use is for car rims, so you can imagine the abuse from the road. However, the red does chip a little because of rimshots, but not much and is easily re-spray coated if desired. I also colored a set of hihats, two crash cymbals and a ride with the red (two light coats of red and two coats of clear sealer), no major wear or chipping on the cymbals. But beware - the coating does control the sound (read "mute") a little, so they take on a darker personality. For bright shimmery cymbals this may be acceptable if you're ok with a darker more controlled sounding cymbal instead of bright shimmering tone.
Hey Jon, how's your build coming?... Just letting you know, all 5 of my videos on this build are uploaded if you wanna see exactly what I did... I'd love to see your end results!
thedrummersalmanac Well, I’ve kinda switched gears. I’m going to build a stave kit. I’ve got all the wood planed to the starting thickness. I’m thinking of doing a video of the build. I’ll check out your other build videos.
thedrummersalmanac Will do! It’s not too bad once you have the jigs built. I’m currently working on those. Once they are don’t it’s just simply cutting the angles based on the amount of staves you want. uniontownlabs.org/tools/stave/ is a great tool to calculate the staves you need. Then glue, true up the O.D. and the I.D. with a router. Then finish. I hoping for mid-summer to be complete. I’m also toying with the idea of making that kit a nesting kit. I like the concept, I just don’t want to sacrifice sound quality due to having odd sized toms.
Just a tip for anyone thinking of trying to spray their lugs. Get a rod that you don't care about and screw it into the lug or fill it with masking tape before spraying the lug. This way the inside of the lug won't get any paint sediment caught in the threads.
So Curious how this held up after time? Especially the tuning lugs and Rims. I'm starting a huge 9 piece Tama Granstar project like this and am considering doing this over Powder coating! Curious how it held up after time
Hey man! I've very impressed with how this came out! Your kit looks great. I'm actually about to do a similar thing with my kit so I will definitely do this to the hardware as well.
I have the exact same lugs on my old kit. I would suggest to anyone else trying to do this to completely disassemble each individual lug, the spring and the tapped tube that the tensioner goes into pop out. This way you can keep the spring clean, and avoid a build up of paint in the spot where the tube emerges which could inhibit its movement. Just my two cents. Also if you have these lugs and you notice a lot of weird ringing from your drums, it could be the springs in the lugs. You can use small strips of scrap fabric stuffed inside the springs to absorb the sound without inhibiting movement. Cheers
A little correction brother ;) tension rods are those things you set beside the bolts and nuts of the emblem/logo. The lugs is where you put in the tension rods ;) .. but yeahh good job!
Thanks, Jim. Can't wait to do a video where you can hear what the kit sounds like. I swear it actually sounds better since I did the restoration. Maybe 'cause I added to mass to the shells?... maybe 'cause I am using Pearl's suspension system? But they look and sound great.
Looks sick af, but I would have disassembled the lugs completely. You know, take out the threaded insert and the spring. Just to avoid missing a section and having it all uniformly blacked out.
It looks like a pro job to me, they look great! Question about your drum room; is that brick paneling? It seems to have a pattern. If so, how does it look in person? And does it diffuse well? Thanks!
Hey mate. Your kit looks great ! I'm restoring an old kit and I have Walnut stain for it. I'll be doing it the way you did it. I've got old kits and stained them before but they didn't look as good as yours. Great channel and subbed. 👍
Have David... I do not. I am from Long Island originally, but now I live down South outside Atlanta. What kind of drums are they and what is the current finish?
Bubbles tend to happens when the surface isn't 100% dry or the spray paint has a reaction to a chemical that you may have used to clean the surface that you are spraying.
Makes sense, but I never got them wet and I sanded each piece and used any kind of cleaner on them... and the rustoleum worked great. Two years later and the hardware hasn’t chipped. I’m sure Krylon is good for some things, but for this it was a total fail.
Sometimes depending on what chemicals are in the paint, they can react with the metal or surface that you are spraying on, causing bubbles or cracking. There isn’t really much you can do about it other than use different paint that doesn’t have those chemicals.
Yeah... It coulda also just been a lemon of a can? I've used that spray on other projects since... In fact, I just sanded some rust off an old ax that got left outside in the rain. I used that exact can to respray it. The ax did the same thing. It all bubbled up. Being that this Krylon spray is supposed to work on all metal surfaces... I have no explanation for this but after that, the can went in the garbage. lol
If anyone needs tiny screws, you can check out McMaster Carr online. About any hardware, materials, parts, and components in vast variety of materials and finishes you might ever need.
Ya know I was gonna try that... In fact that grey topped Krylon can in back of the other three is a primer. Since the two colors that I chose advertised Paint + Primer in one... I wanted to see how they did without priming first. I ended up really liking the Rustoleum, which went on great in one coat... If I was really married to the Krylon color, then I would have primed first, which probably would have solved the issue with the bubbling. Have you had more success priming then painting in two separate steps VS. using these all-in-one sollutions? I'd love to hear about what you've done so I can give it a try on future projects!
....takes patience to let each layer dry, sand, stain, repeat. The black hardware seems to compete with the wood grain. From a color theory, artists and interior decorators might use a coral white for the lugs against the umber shell color. But you could also test other stains, ie green with gold lugs and so forth....Keep workin’ on cheap drums to practice the matching possibilities. The gloss comes across nice. IMHO the black is too pessimistic while chrome or bright color lugs would give a lot more warmth. Good work, DYI still takes patience.....
for the hardware, I was using 80 grit paper to scuff it. You should be wearing a mask when you do that as well. I know I wasn't, but you don't wanna breathe in those shavings of chrome dust.
The Krylon bubbled up because the paint likely had a chemical reaction to the chrome finish on the lug. It would have been better to strip the lug back completely, clean with a rubbing alcohol, prime, then spray light coats until you reach the desired level of coating. But hey, in the end it all looked great.
@@Thedrummersalmanac you welcome. You did a very nice job, i sugest you to sand blast the chrome harware inside a enclousure, it's more safe. I actualy have watched all the videos, real amazing job.
@@user-gv3hu5no8f Thanks, my friend... The set came out great... and it actually sounds better now... which is strange. Maybe because I added more mass to the shells. I wouldn't say it's road worthy... since the spray paint could chip... but for the studio, I am very happy with it. Thanks for watching and think about subscribing. I'd love to hear your thoughts on some of my other vids!
This video is part 2 of this drum restoration... Check out all the vids here and leave me a comment below.
ruclips.net/p/PL4Yyz0u_dF6M0vpVGxLofwuiUo658SFVn
All ways have a damp cloth with ya when painting.
Where did you get the hoops?
@@davidcevallos4873 I ordered them online. I forget the exact website, but I can find out.
@@Thedrummersalmanac thank you, I've been trying to get them online, but couldn't find them, if you can help me with the website it will be awesome 👍🏼
I Got them here: drumsonsale.com/
Drums on SALE 11375 Robinwood Dr Hagerstown, MD 217426706
Best product for blacking out chrome hardware is from the automotive side of things...Duplicolor CHROME BLACK. Find at any auto parts store. Made for blacking out chrome wheels and other chrome automotive parts. About $18, comes in a two part kit - blacking, and clearcoat. No priming needed and it's very strong. It keeps the very shiny and metallic chrome look while getting a nice blacking effect. Lots of videos on RUclips with guys using on their wheels and other chrome parts.You can go from a shadow haze to full on black, just by the # of coats applied. I did all my hoops and lugs - SUPER EASY to use. AND, Duplicolor makes other colors for tinting chrome - I did my snare hoops and lugs in RED -- looks EPIC!
Ya Know... where were you two years ago when I was finishing these drums!? ...geez... lol I will definitely give that a try on the next build. Thanks for the info.
Hey Dan,
Do the hoops lose any coating when hit with a stick..thanks
@@fletchlivesdaily348 ...I like to know that as well. wish I had done it that way myself.
@@fletchlivesdaily348 The Chrome Black hasn't shown any wear so far (it's on the toms, so not so much for rim shots), and is very durable - of course it would be, because it's original use is for car rims, so you can imagine the abuse from the road. However, the red does chip a little because of rimshots, but not much and is easily re-spray coated if desired. I also colored a set of hihats, two crash cymbals and a ride with the red (two light coats of red and two coats of clear sealer), no major wear or chipping on the cymbals. But beware - the coating does control the sound (read "mute") a little, so they take on a darker personality. For bright shimmery cymbals this may be acceptable if you're ok with a darker more controlled sounding cymbal instead of bright shimmering tone.
Fletch Lives Daily ....mine are over a year old and they still look great
Love the new look! I very much enjoyed these build videos. Now planning my own.
Awesome! It's time-consuming, but worth it in the end... Thanks for checking it out.
Hey Jon, how's your build coming?... Just letting you know, all 5 of my videos on this build are uploaded if you wanna see exactly what I did... I'd love to see your end results!
thedrummersalmanac Well, I’ve kinda switched gears. I’m going to build a stave kit. I’ve got all the wood planed to the starting thickness. I’m thinking of doing a video of the build. I’ll check out your other build videos.
@@jonfuller4923 Awesome! That sounds pretty complicated. If you do some vids, let me know.
thedrummersalmanac Will do! It’s not too bad once you have the jigs built. I’m currently working on those. Once they are don’t it’s just simply cutting the angles based on the amount of staves you want. uniontownlabs.org/tools/stave/ is a great tool to calculate the staves you need. Then glue, true up the O.D. and the I.D. with a router. Then finish. I hoping for mid-summer to be complete. I’m also toying with the idea of making that kit a nesting kit. I like the concept, I just don’t want to sacrifice sound quality due to having odd sized toms.
Just a tip for anyone thinking of trying to spray their lugs. Get a rod that you don't care about and screw it into the lug or fill it with masking tape before spraying the lug. This way the inside of the lug won't get any paint sediment caught in the threads.
Thanks for the suggestion of Rust-Oleum Metallic Oil Rubbed Bronze! Looks killer with the bubinga wood fade wrap from bum wrap!
So Curious how this held up after time? Especially the tuning lugs and Rims. I'm starting a huge 9 piece Tama Granstar project like this and am considering doing this over Powder coating! Curious how it held up after time
Nice work..
Hey man! I've very impressed with how this came out! Your kit looks great. I'm actually about to do a similar thing with my kit so I will definitely do this to the hardware as well.
you are my hero! Thank you for this. you cant find black hardware anywhere nowadays!
Check out DUPLICOLOR Chrome Black. Someone in these comments suggested that. Next time I’m gonna try it.
I plastdipped my rims and lugs one time on a kit i had and it held well against stick beatings, after another change in design i took it off
That’s an interesting solution ...how’d it look?
I have the exact same lugs on my old kit. I would suggest to anyone else trying to do this to completely disassemble each individual lug, the spring and the tapped tube that the tensioner goes into pop out. This way you can keep the spring clean, and avoid a build up of paint in the spot where the tube emerges which could inhibit its movement.
Just my two cents.
Also if you have these lugs and you notice a lot of weird ringing from your drums, it could be the springs in the lugs. You can use small strips of scrap fabric stuffed inside the springs to absorb the sound without inhibiting movement.
Cheers
A little correction brother ;) tension rods are those things you set beside the bolts and nuts of the emblem/logo. The lugs is where you put in the tension rods ;) .. but yeahh good job!
Nice Jay!! Good work
Thanks, Jim. Can't wait to do a video where you can hear what the kit sounds like. I swear it actually sounds better since I did the restoration. Maybe 'cause I added to mass to the shells?... maybe 'cause I am using Pearl's suspension system? But they look and sound great.
Looks sick af, but I would have disassembled the lugs completely. You know, take out the threaded insert and the spring. Just to avoid missing a section and having it all uniformly blacked out.
Very nice, although I might Iron Rainbow my set when time comes to refinish!
where did you get the little round metal gromet air vents? Im restoring an 80s export kit as well and messed mine up as well
It looks like a pro job to me, they look great! Question about your drum room; is that brick paneling? It seems to have a pattern. If so, how does it look in person? And does it diffuse well? Thanks!
It was actually brick wall paper. It was a matte finish so it didn’t reflect too bad. Ive since moved and changed everything to infinite white.
@@Thedrummersalmanac Oh wow, on video it looks textured. Thanks!
@@db9692 ...Ya know on video if the lighting is right... you can't even tell. 😉
very cool...
Thanks
Hey mate.
Your kit looks great !
I'm restoring an old kit and I have Walnut stain for it. I'll be doing it the way you did it.
I've got old kits and stained them before but they didn't look as good as yours.
Great channel and subbed. 👍
Customwinder 1 ...awesome, Good luck on your build and thanks for subbing!
Try some thing different ,be original !
Yeah thanks mate
Dude are you close to New England I don't have a space to do this how much would you charge?
Have David... I do not. I am from Long Island originally, but now I live down South outside Atlanta. What kind of drums are they and what is the current finish?
Bubbles tend to happens when the surface isn't 100% dry or the spray paint has a reaction to a chemical that you may have used to clean the surface that you are spraying.
Makes sense, but I never got them wet and I sanded each piece and used any kind of cleaner on them... and the rustoleum worked great. Two years later and the hardware hasn’t chipped. I’m sure Krylon is good for some things, but for this it was a total fail.
Sometimes depending on what chemicals are in the paint, they can react with the metal or surface that you are spraying on, causing bubbles or cracking. There isn’t really much you can do about it other than use different paint that doesn’t have those chemicals.
Yeah... It coulda also just been a lemon of a can? I've used that spray on other projects since... In fact, I just sanded some rust off an old ax that got left outside in the rain. I used that exact can to respray it. The ax did the same thing. It all bubbled up. Being that this Krylon spray is supposed to work on all metal surfaces... I have no explanation for this but after that, the can went in the garbage. lol
If anyone needs tiny screws, you can check out McMaster Carr online. About any hardware, materials, parts, and components in vast variety of materials and finishes you might ever need.
uk7769 good to know... those screws were hard to find
Etch prime first. Then paint.
Ya know I was gonna try that... In fact that grey topped Krylon can in back of the other three is a primer. Since the two colors that I chose advertised Paint + Primer in one... I wanted to see how they did without priming first. I ended up really liking the Rustoleum, which went on great in one coat... If I was really married to the Krylon color, then I would have primed first, which probably would have solved the issue with the bubbling. Have you had more success priming then painting in two separate steps VS. using these all-in-one sollutions? I'd love to hear about what you've done so I can give it a try on future projects!
....takes patience to let each layer dry, sand, stain, repeat. The black hardware seems to compete with the wood grain. From a color theory, artists and interior decorators might use a coral white for the lugs against the umber shell color. But you could also test other stains, ie green with gold lugs and so forth....Keep workin’ on cheap drums to practice the matching possibilities. The gloss comes across nice. IMHO the black is too pessimistic while chrome or bright color lugs would give a lot more warmth. Good work, DYI still takes patience.....
Absolutley... It's all personal taste. But I'd love to see some of those looks!
How did the paint hold up to tuning the heads
Still looks just as good as the day I did it. They stay in the studio, though. I don’t actively gig with them.
3 years later...is it chipping or peeling?
We’re did you buy your black nickel hoops from?
I’d have to look it up.
@@Thedrummersalmanac I’ve looked everywhere and can’t find them.
@@adriansalinas1572 did you Google “black nickel drum hoops”
I Got them here: drumsonsale.com/
Drums on SALE 11375 Robinwood Dr Hagerstown, MD 217426706
give them a try and see if they still have them 👍🏻
Am in Ghana how can I clean my drums
What sandpaper do you use
for the hardware, I was using 80 grit paper to scuff it. You should be wearing a mask when you do that as well. I know I wasn't, but you don't wanna breathe in those shavings of chrome dust.
what paint did you use
Rustoleum Paint + Primer Oil Rubbed Bronze
The Krylon bubbled up because the paint likely had a chemical reaction to the chrome finish on the lug. It would have been better to strip the lug back completely, clean with a rubbing alcohol, prime, then spray light coats until you reach the desired level of coating. But hey, in the end it all looked great.
repsandgrooves Thats very possible. Luckily the rustoleum didn’t have the same problem.
Tupperware container with slightly hotter than lukewarm water place your spray cans in the water for 15 minutes then shake for 5, used dust coats
really!? nice... i'll try that next time.
Mucho hablas amigo
AL GRANOOOOO!!!
Amazing job, but do not sand chrome metal...it's dangerous.
Jogador Gameplayer thanks for the tip... probably shoulda worn a mask for that.
@@Thedrummersalmanac you welcome. You did a very nice job, i sugest you to sand blast the chrome harware inside a enclousure, it's more safe. I actualy have watched all the videos, real amazing job.
@@user-gv3hu5no8f Thanks, my friend... The set came out great... and it actually sounds better now... which is strange. Maybe because I added more mass to the shells. I wouldn't say it's road worthy... since the spray paint could chip... but for the studio, I am very happy with it. Thanks for watching and think about subscribing. I'd love to hear your thoughts on some of my other vids!
He wore nothing on his face while sanding. Chrome dust is harmful if inhaled. Look it up.
Speaks to his inexperience!
Spray paint is ghetto but practical.
412. I couldnt watch. I had to skip that part
Mask is upside down..🤪
Back in the days before we were all experts at wearing masks .🤣