nice work. you don't have to sand that much. i usually wait until my next-to-last coat of clear, sand lightly, then hit it with a few more final coats for protection and glossiness. sometimes i use a spray gun, but when i do it by hand i always use a foam brush, not bristles. it makes a huge difference, they come in lots of different sizes and they're cheap and disposable so no cleaning between coats, etc.
Right on man. the sanding and stain is easy. The Varathane was the only tough part. If you can get away without sanding life is easy. Just be careful to have no runs and go on very thin coats. Wait a long period before sanding if you need to as it takes a while to get to a point where it is ready.
I am doing the same with a really cheap kit I picked up for an edrum conversion. Instead of scrubbing the hardware, I soaked them in Coke overnight and rinsed off. Took off all the rust with no scrubbing.
Excellent. I always heard state troopers had cola in the trunk to dilute highway bloodstains. Did you happen to grow a colony of tiny people overnight on your hardware ala Lisa though?
3M Scotch-Brite scrubbing pads are fir better for sanding drums during the ckearciat stages. I worked in a cabinet shop for years. I built and repaired druns for over 30 years. When we discovered the 3M pads, it was a game changer. For clearcoat, I prefer wipe on poly if you aren't spraying the clear coat on.
For glossier finish use thick-ish coats of clear to completely fill the open grain of the wood (the wood in this video looks like lauan, so the grain is rather coarse... build it up and sand between plies with 220 or so to knock down the clear to level of the wood, leaving the 'valleys' of the grain filled with clear coat). Then another few coats of clear with light sanding of 320-400 ish sandpaper between coats till the finish is a smooth, hazy/satin look to it that shows absolutely NO grain in the reflection. The idea is to build up a decent layer of clear over the wood that can be worked down to make it smooth without cutting through it to the wood below. Then use 600 grit and wipe sanding dust off, then 1000 grit, then 1500 grit, then 2000 grit (yes,2000), thoroughly removing all dust between sandings. By the time you get to 600 and above you're not really removing a lot of material, so don't worry too much about reaching the wood below (assuming you have a few coats above the wood). Then, after thorough sanding with 2000 use buffing compound (like PlastX or such) with an orbital polisher to bring out the shine. By building layers of clear the wood will be completely filled in, and you can polish to a mirror like gloss finish. This whole process does take some time, but you only gotta do it once, and the drums will look spectacular!
I make furniture for a hobby. My advice for you is instead of wasting your time applying all those coats of poly, I would go and buy some good quality wood grain filler that's made for that purpose. It's really the ONLY way you can get a truly flat, glossy finish that will blow you away !!! It's used for open-grained wood like oak, luan, etc.. Instead of poly. I would use laqueur because the end result will BLOW YOU AWAY !!! Plus, all that sanding you are doing is meaningless and pointless. Also, I would spray the finish rather than using a foam brush.
You could be right. The wood is quite dry after almost 40 years of existence.. I figured I'd see how it sounds before doing anything drastic. I powdercoated a brass snare drum inside and out and it changed the sound a LOT!
For what it's worth, the WLX (World Series / Prestige Session) drums from that era came with lacquered interiors. I have a WLX kit from about 1991, and it sounds great.
great project. I'm surprised the wood underneath was in good enough shape to stain. I'm doing the same with a cheap Forum kit I bought for $80 but I'm going to paint the shells, then clear coat. I would recommend Varathane non-yellowing finish that they use for hardwood floors as it provides a very tough finish and won't discolor with age.
I used Varathane for the clear but its a real pain to get that glass like finish. I'll try tung oil next time I think. Sanding Varathane makes it look really scuffed so the last few coats I recommend going very thin and not sanding.
I always use spray clear and use 600 grit sandpaper between coats, except for the last 2 coats where I don't sand at all. I find it easier to control the amount of clear being applied so there are fewer -if any-drips. On a drum, I wouldn't do more than 3 or 4 coats so it doesn't affect the resonance.
For the hardware you could of used coke and aluminum foil. It takes the rust and crud right off. Of course you’ll need to wipe off the soda residue (yes the hardware will be sticky) but it’s cheap. Plus it makes the hardware look brand new. But your restoration job is awesome... I’ve restored a basswood mapex kit. But I just wrapped it instead of staining and such. But now I have a Ddrum alder wood kit and the previous owner already took the wrap off and said he sanded it but it looks rough. So I’m planning on restoring this kit as well. Only problem is the sizes are freaking enormous!!! 2x 26x15 bass drums, 13x10, 14x10 rack toms, 16x16 and 18x16 floor toms. So that’s a lot of sanding and I’m wanting to be careful as to not take too much material off as I’m not sure how much sanding he did... but from the feel of the wood (which it feels rough) he didn’t really sand much... he just threw a stain on it and didn’t even put a clear coat. Plus he left the bass hoops alone which they look like someone slapped a sticker on them and now theirs sticky residue all over it.
@@EarthtonesCymbals check the ingredients... if it has phosphoric acid in the ingredients then yes Sam's choice Cola will do fine! A sugar free cola is less sticky to clean up after.
good job man you saved that drum set i have a future tip for you polyurothane full gloss two parts one part mineral spirits brush it on gently and quickly and when your done gently pick up the shell and with your fingers walk the shell in a circle for about ten min your rotating it to avoid over lapping and runs i did my grandstar this way using ebony stain and gloss oil bass poly but great job man those look great
Thanks. I'll do another with the skils I learnt from this one. Rotating the drum is a good idea. All the things about buffing out and sanding the poly don't seem as easy as the videos I watched. One thin thin fine grit sand paper would make it look awful. So getting it right the first time makes a big difference. no sanding, just a buffing with a rag after and no runs :)
So what would have helped avoid the bleeding of stain onto the bearing edge? I pretty much did this exact same thing and I want to know how to avoid it in the future. I used painters tape on the edges but obviously stain works deeper into the wood.
What you & thedrummersalmanac should have used is a product by Birchwood casey called TRU OIL it is a gunstock finish. It is applies by a rag. I promise you its the easiest thing to use. No brush marks or runs. The first coat is matt, second satin, third starts getting glossy. It is the best stuff. A small bottle goes along way. Try it guy's.
It was in a bad state. I bought some of the swivel nuts on Amazon and a few tension rods off ebay. after the brasso the hardware looked good to, There was some pitting but compared to how it was it was night and day. This was more just a learning experience than anything for me. Quite a bit of work but they looked very good in the end. The clear coat is the tough part, getting it smooth with no runs is one thing. Trying to sand it made me need to restart fresh as well. I don't think I'd do this on a kit that cost more than a few hundred myself.
It was a fun project. Next time I'd possibly skip the sanding. Find a rub on or an oil to protect the drums. The Varathane looked awesome, but even a light grit sandpaper scuffs it up too much. I may have rushed it too. let them sit a long time before you attempt to sand..
I just got a Pearl export complete set including cymbals and stands with wrinkly blue plastic over what looks like real plywood that looks like it could be birch or even maple. Can’t wait to get started. 100.00$ CDN!!! Question: would getting stain on the rim itself harm the sound? I can see why you wouldn’t want the clear coat on it. When I do my layers of layers of clear coat on I usually thin after the first layer is sanded. Makes the next layer go on smoothly.
that looks awesome, great job...looks almost like the finish I ended up with. Any feed feedback you can give or pointers if you can of course great job though. loved the process you did & the outcome you ended up with.
My only feed back is do a few coats of poly, or use an oil. be VERY careful with sanding, It is so easy to burn it all off. wait until it is totally dry before starting, you may want to buff them out afterwords. if you can get away without sanding by doing a really good poly job with no drips you will be better off.
It would help tremendously to first use a a grain filler, then a sealer a d then your clear coats. Mohogany is just too porous to not fill and seal. Also, staining will be easier to do.
@@beyondbetrayal It doesn't matter what kind of wood it is, it is open-grained wood which calls for grain filler to be used. It's the ONLY way you can get a truly smooth, mirror-like finish!!
000 Steel wool will clean the hardware up pretty easily without any chemicals. Also, putting in the dishwasher to start with will clean them really nice.
Can I use a 2in1 stain & varnish high-gloss wood finish on my drum shell? I'm making a project and I've remove the wrap on my drums cause it's too dirty and can easily tear the wrap so I decided to take them out and make a new wood style looking on my drums. So should i buy a 2in1 stain & varnish high-gloss wood finish? Thanks for your suggestions! :))
Does anybody know if it is possible to not get that glossy finish but a rather "rough" and dry looking finish? Sorry not a native speaker x) planning on doing this awesome stuff to my old Tama Rockstar. Awesome job btw on that pearl!
Really like the color of that stain, I did this with another kit in the past and want that color stain on my current kit. You didn’t mention the stain in the vid, just the verathane. If you still have the stain could you see what brand and color it is? Great job!!
sorry man. just a random can of stain i bought at Canadian Tire. It looked darker than i was planning so I was worried, but after wiping it off it turned out fantastic.
I always suggest trying it on a kit that isn't worth a ton of money first. But I don't think that matters as much as your head choice. I have heard drums made out of many different types of wood, and head choice, size, and the person playing make the most difference. I Powder coated a brass snare once and it made a slight difference but it still sounds like a snare drum.
NO. Think about it.......does a wrap finish affect the sound ? The sounds that a drum makes is all in the HEADS !! Don't listen to the hype, because most of it is borderline absolute bullshit !!!
I just did a bit here and there so it was spread out . The only part that takes a long time is clear coat because you have to let it dry between coats. Next time I'd use wipe on tung oil instead and only do a few coats. Now that I have done this the next one will go fast.....(rough total time) .. 1 hour remove hardware, 1 hour -remove wraps, 1- 2 hours sanding. I spent WAY too much time clear coating, several hours, multiple coats, then sanding and re applying. then maybe an hour or 2 putting hardware back on.
Just 1 or 2 coats of stain. I didn't want it to turn out super dark. It soaked right up. I waited a day or 2 for it to dry. The key is waiting LONG between clear coats. If you start when it's sticky you need to restart as it will look bad. I also found that sanding the clear coat didn't work very well. If you want it glossy go on thick and try to make sure there are no runs so you don't have to sand it.
The first time ya, I sanded down and reapplied. I think the key is to go on real thin and do multiple coats. Sanding didn't work well for me as it just scratched it up. If you want gloss, super thin coats and just leave it. Make sure you don't have any runs. Wait at least a day between coats as if it is remotely damp still the brush will make a mess of the previous coat.
@@beyondbetrayal I'm sure you've figured this out by now, but a foam brush helps a lot against air bubbles and brush marks. Really helpful for consistency in the strokes and amount of varnish. I've found sanding very lightly between each coat application and then wiping away any debris with a tack cloth really helps. The light sanding really dulls the coat, but it's the reapplication of 8-12 coats that really gives the finish that "depth" and shine. It's a slow process but is really worth it.
@@overindulgence6168 Makes sense. I have a Pearl MCX and a Reference Pure, neither have hardware like this.. I agree with ya. I ended up selling this after as it was just a test to see if I could do it. Worked pretty good though.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
nice work. you don't have to sand that much. i usually wait until my next-to-last coat of clear, sand lightly, then hit it with a few more final coats for protection and glossiness. sometimes i use a spray gun, but when i do it by hand i always use a foam brush, not bristles. it makes a huge difference, they come in lots of different sizes and they're cheap and disposable so no cleaning between coats, etc.
Yeah. Those chip brushes are the worst thing in the universe to use.
Wow! That looked amazing. Thank you for taking the time to post this.
I think it turned out really nice.
Awesome video bro!
Thanks for sharing this dude, looks awesome and am in the process of following your instructions on my own!
Right on man. the sanding and stain is easy. The Varathane was the only tough part. If you can get away without sanding life is easy. Just be careful to have no runs and go on very thin coats. Wait a long period before sanding if you need to as it takes a while to get to a point where it is ready.
Very nice the was really cool. Thanks for sharing this :)
Good luck if you attempt it. The clear coat was a pain to do.
Great video, thanks for posting
Glad you enjoyed it
What a great learning experience. You definitely learned from day to day.
You are correct. lots of trial and error, It was a fun project. Next time it will go much smoother.
I am doing the same with a really cheap kit I picked up for an edrum conversion. Instead of scrubbing the hardware, I soaked them in Coke overnight and rinsed off. Took off all the rust with no scrubbing.
Excellent. I always heard state troopers had cola in the trunk to dilute highway bloodstains. Did you happen to grow a colony of tiny people overnight on your hardware ala Lisa though?
And people drink that stuff
@@weareparkerful people eat vinegar, and you can use it for the same thing
3M Scotch-Brite scrubbing pads are fir better for sanding drums during the ckearciat stages.
I worked in a cabinet shop for years. I built and repaired druns for over 30 years. When we discovered the 3M pads, it was a game changer.
For clearcoat, I prefer wipe on poly if you aren't spraying the clear coat on.
Very cool. I was a total noob with no idea what I was doing when I made this haha
Stunning! Wow.
Thank you!
Dang super job bro!!!☝️☝️👊👊
this looks like a blast. I'm definitely going to do this myself. Cant wait
Have fun!
Great video! I´m going to do this with my 1984 Swingstar kit.
Go for it!
Great work. Looks a lot better.
For glossier finish use thick-ish coats of clear to completely fill the open grain of the wood (the wood in this video looks like lauan, so the grain is rather coarse... build it up and sand between plies with 220 or so to knock down the clear to level of the wood, leaving the 'valleys' of the grain filled with clear coat). Then another few coats of clear with light sanding of 320-400 ish sandpaper between coats till the finish is a smooth, hazy/satin look to it that shows absolutely NO grain in the reflection. The idea is to build up a decent layer of clear over the wood that can be worked down to make it smooth without cutting through it to the wood below. Then use 600 grit and wipe sanding dust off, then 1000 grit, then 1500 grit, then 2000 grit (yes,2000), thoroughly removing all dust between sandings. By the time you get to 600 and above you're not really removing a lot of material, so don't worry too much about reaching the wood below (assuming you have a few coats above the wood). Then, after thorough sanding with 2000 use buffing compound (like PlastX or such) with an orbital polisher to bring out the shine. By building layers of clear the wood will be completely filled in, and you can polish to a mirror like gloss finish. This whole process does take some time, but you only gotta do it once, and the drums will look spectacular!
I make furniture for a hobby. My advice for you is instead of wasting your time applying all those coats of poly, I would go and buy some good quality wood grain filler that's made for that purpose. It's really the ONLY way you can get a truly flat, glossy finish that will blow you away !!! It's used for open-grained wood like oak, luan, etc.. Instead of poly. I would use laqueur because the end result will BLOW YOU AWAY !!! Plus, all that sanding you are doing is meaningless and pointless. Also, I would spray the finish rather than using a foam brush.
Adding a clear coat inside might actually help the sound and projection in drums made of this kind of wood.
You could be right. The wood is quite dry after almost 40 years of existence.. I figured I'd see how it sounds before doing anything drastic. I powdercoated a brass snare drum inside and out and it changed the sound a LOT!
For what it's worth, the WLX (World Series / Prestige Session) drums from that era came with lacquered interiors. I have a WLX kit from about 1991, and it sounds great.
great project. I'm surprised the wood underneath was in good enough shape to stain. I'm doing the same with a cheap Forum kit I bought for $80 but I'm going to paint the shells, then clear coat. I would recommend Varathane non-yellowing finish that they use for hardwood floors as it provides a very tough finish and won't discolor with age.
I used Varathane for the clear but its a real pain to get that glass like finish. I'll try tung oil next time I think. Sanding Varathane makes it look really scuffed so the last few coats I recommend going very thin and not sanding.
I always use spray clear and use 600 grit sandpaper between coats, except for the last 2 coats where I don't sand at all. I find it easier to control the amount of clear being applied so there are fewer -if any-drips. On a drum, I wouldn't do more than 3 or 4 coats so it doesn't affect the resonance.
Good advice, I sanded most of it off by the end i think haha
well, that's why you practice on a cheap kit :D
For the hardware you could of used coke and aluminum foil. It takes the rust and crud right off. Of course you’ll need to wipe off the soda residue (yes the hardware will be sticky) but it’s cheap. Plus it makes the hardware look brand new. But your restoration job is awesome... I’ve restored a basswood mapex kit. But I just wrapped it instead of staining and such. But now I have a Ddrum alder wood kit and the previous owner already took the wrap off and said he sanded it but it looks rough. So I’m planning on restoring this kit as well. Only problem is the sizes are freaking enormous!!! 2x 26x15 bass drums, 13x10, 14x10 rack toms, 16x16 and 18x16 floor toms. So that’s a lot of sanding and I’m wanting to be careful as to not take too much material off as I’m not sure how much sanding he did... but from the feel of the wood (which it feels rough) he didn’t really sand much... he just threw a stain on it and didn’t even put a clear coat. Plus he left the bass hoops alone which they look like someone slapped a sticker on them and now theirs sticky residue all over it.
I am not willing to sacrifice my delicious and refreshing Coke to do what you suggest. Does it work with Sam's Choice Cola?
@@EarthtonesCymbals check the ingredients... if it has phosphoric acid in the ingredients then yes Sam's choice Cola will do fine! A sugar free cola is less sticky to clean up after.
Sick. Currently trying this in my shed. Thanks for the tips I hope mine turns out half as nice!
Hope it goes well
good job man you saved that drum set i have a future tip for you polyurothane full gloss two parts one part mineral spirits brush it on gently and quickly and when your done gently pick up the shell and with your fingers walk the shell in a circle for about ten min your rotating it to avoid over lapping and runs i did my grandstar this way using ebony stain and gloss oil bass poly but great job man those look great
Thanks. I'll do another with the skils I learnt from this one. Rotating the drum is a good idea. All the things about buffing out and sanding the poly don't seem as easy as the videos I watched. One thin thin fine grit sand paper would make it look awful. So getting it right the first time makes a big difference. no sanding, just a buffing with a rag after and no runs :)
You've got a thicker accent than the boys in Sunnyvale.
HAHAHA comment of 2020 so far!
@@beyondbetrayal greasy...
great job buddy
Thanks a bunch
So what would have helped avoid the bleeding of stain onto the bearing edge?
I pretty much did this exact same thing and I want to know how to avoid it in the future. I used painters tape on the edges but obviously stain works deeper into the wood.
What you & thedrummersalmanac should have used is a product by Birchwood casey called TRU OIL it is a gunstock finish. It is applies by a rag. I promise you its the easiest thing to use. No brush marks or runs. The first coat is matt, second satin, third starts getting glossy. It is the best stuff. A small bottle goes along way. Try it guy's.
Dude, $100 bucks? lol... those 80's 90's kits are just awesome!! Nice trade...even if needs reapirs. And btw...well done my dude!
It was in a bad state. I bought some of the swivel nuts on Amazon and a few tension rods off ebay. after the brasso the hardware looked good to, There was some pitting but compared to how it was it was night and day. This was more just a learning experience than anything for me. Quite a bit of work but they looked very good in the end. The clear coat is the tough part, getting it smooth with no runs is one thing. Trying to sand it made me need to restart fresh as well. I don't think I'd do this on a kit that cost more than a few hundred myself.
What was the stain? thanks
Absolutely gorgeous! Can't wait to stain my drums! 😭💪🙌🔥❤️
It was a fun project. Next time I'd possibly skip the sanding. Find a rub on or an oil to protect the drums. The Varathane looked awesome, but even a light grit sandpaper scuffs it up too much. I may have rushed it too. let them sit a long time before you attempt to sand..
I just got a Pearl export complete set including cymbals and stands with wrinkly blue plastic over what looks like real plywood that looks like it could be birch or even maple. Can’t wait to get started. 100.00$ CDN!!!
Question: would getting stain on the rim itself harm the sound? I can see why you wouldn’t want the clear coat on it.
When I do my layers of layers of clear coat on I usually thin after the first layer is sanded. Makes the next layer go on smoothly.
Getting stain on the bearing edges or inside the hardware holes is NOT going to affect the sound quality of the shell !! That's a FACT!!!
that looks awesome, great job...looks almost like the finish I ended up with. Any feed feedback you can give or pointers if you can of course great job though. loved the process you did & the outcome you ended up with.
My only feed back is do a few coats of poly, or use an oil. be VERY careful with sanding, It is so easy to burn it all off. wait until it is totally dry before starting, you may want to buff them out afterwords. if you can get away without sanding by doing a really good poly job with no drips you will be better off.
It would help tremendously to first use a a grain filler, then a sealer a d then your clear coats. Mohogany is just too porous to not fill and seal. Also, staining will be easier to do.
Thanks. However, this was not Mohogany.
@@beyondbetrayal It doesn't matter what kind of wood it is, it is open-grained wood which calls for grain filler to be used. It's the ONLY way you can get a truly smooth, mirror-like finish!!
@@beyondbetrayal Nice job dude. Thanks for shareing.
Did its sound change a bit? better? worse in terms of acoustics?
@@luisd.galicia3562 I don't have the kit anymore but it wasn't noticeable really
Great job! How does it sounds?
whats the difference between varnish and varathane?
Varithane IS varnish!
000 Steel wool will clean the hardware up pretty easily without any chemicals. Also, putting in the dishwasher to start with will clean them really nice.
That's a good idea with the dishwasher next time
Can I use a 2in1 stain & varnish high-gloss wood finish on my drum shell? I'm making a project and I've remove the wrap on my drums cause it's too dirty and can easily tear the wrap so I decided to take them out and make a new wood style looking on my drums. So should i buy a 2in1 stain & varnish high-gloss wood finish? Thanks for your suggestions! :))
I'm sure you can. You may want to test in a inconspicuous spot first.
To improve the sound of the bass drum WOOD HOOPS ! No idea why but 100% better sound .
This kit sounded just fine. It was a cheap project. I wasn't going to spend a bunch more money on it.
Does anybody know if it is possible to not get that glossy finish but a rather "rough" and dry looking finish? Sorry not a native speaker x) planning on doing this awesome stuff to my old Tama Rockstar. Awesome job btw on that pearl!
Yes. Instead of the gloss get the "matt" finish. there are multple leveals from clear to cloudy and shiny to flat/dry looking
Yes, don't use any clear coat.
What paint did you use in that drum? What's the name of that paint?
Is your stain water base or oil base?
Really like the color of that stain, I did this with another kit in the past and want that color stain on my current kit. You didn’t mention the stain in the vid, just the verathane. If you still have the stain could you see what brand and color it is? Great job!!
sorry man. just a random can of stain i bought at Canadian Tire. It looked darker than i was planning so I was worried, but after wiping it off it turned out fantastic.
Would a two-part epoxy coat for shine hamper the sound do you think? Thinking about doing this to my 1979 Tama Imperial Star
I always suggest trying it on a kit that isn't worth a ton of money first. But I don't think that matters as much as your head choice. I have heard drums made out of many different types of wood, and head choice, size, and the person playing make the most difference. I Powder coated a brass snare once and it made a slight difference but it still sounds like a snare drum.
NO. Think about it.......does a wrap finish affect the sound ? The sounds that a drum makes is all in the HEADS !! Don't listen to the hype, because most of it is borderline absolute bullshit !!!
Not bad I like the idea.. Should have just sprayed the clear coat its so much easier no runs and it goes on thick
That's a great idea. next time
@@beyondbetrayal yea its pretty much your video that convinced me to start refinishing old drum sets.. so thank you
how much time did you spend on this project?? and great work
I just did a bit here and there so it was spread out . The only part that takes a long time is clear coat because you have to let it dry between coats. Next time I'd use wipe on tung oil instead and only do a few coats. Now that I have done this the next one will go fast.....(rough total time) .. 1 hour remove hardware, 1 hour -remove wraps, 1- 2 hours sanding. I spent WAY too much time clear coating, several hours, multiple coats, then sanding and re applying. then maybe an hour or 2 putting hardware back on.
How many coats of stain did you apply and how long did it sit before you applied the clear coat?
Just 1 or 2 coats of stain. I didn't want it to turn out super dark. It soaked right up. I waited a day or 2 for it to dry. The key is waiting LONG between clear coats. If you start when it's sticky you need to restart as it will look bad. I also found that sanding the clear coat didn't work very well. If you want it glossy go on thick and try to make sure there are no runs so you don't have to sand it.
Nice job. Did you get any of those tiny air bubbles/pin holes after the clear was put on?
The first time ya, I sanded down and reapplied. I think the key is to go on real thin and do multiple coats. Sanding didn't work well for me as it just scratched it up. If you want gloss, super thin coats and just leave it. Make sure you don't have any runs. Wait at least a day between coats as if it is remotely damp still the brush will make a mess of the previous coat.
@@beyondbetrayal I'm sure you've figured this out by now, but a foam brush helps a lot against air bubbles and brush marks. Really helpful for consistency in the strokes and amount of varnish. I've found sanding very lightly between each coat application and then wiping away any debris with a tack cloth really helps. The light sanding really dulls the coat, but it's the reapplication of 8-12 coats that really gives the finish that "depth" and shine. It's a slow process but is really worth it.
Those drums look amazing. What wood stain did you use ??
I think I say in the video. I can't remember off the top of my head.
Your call.
Dig it!!
Using a drill instead of a drum key because it makes it go a lot quicker. I couldn't watch the rest. Cheers!
It's a drill bit made by Evans lol. Works great, just have to be careful
0000 steel wool for chrome
Sure would be nice sure would be nice if you used a different camera angle so we didn't have to look at your back
Next time. I wasnt even really planning on taping this.
Clear coat spray paint is quicker.. 4-5 coats dries in 24hrs
Rusty hardware????? Use WARM WATER AND ALUMINUM FOIL. Just rub it off.
That mounting hardware is UGLY
Stock hardware on a super old kit. I wasn't going to pay to put new hardware on a kit I bought for $50 haha
@@beyondbetrayal Totally understand just never was a fan of hardware that extended the length of a drum. Shell looks good though.👌
@@overindulgence6168 Makes sense. I have a Pearl MCX and a Reference Pure, neither have hardware like this.. I agree with ya. I ended up selling this after as it was just a test to see if I could do it. Worked pretty good though.
MAGA2020, LOOKS GREAT. MAGA2020, OUT
Wow. This is an incredible example of a moron in the wild.
😂😂