Top End Long Block Assembly [Sr20det build guide]
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- In this video we finish the short block build from last video and turn it into a long block assembly. If you have any questions please feel free to shoot me a DM on Instagram! and as always thanks for watching!
awesome camshaft assembly write up!
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Doing forged bottom end and rebuild. Just waiting on parts to come in to assemble. Appreciate your thorough vids on assembly will be going back and watching while assembling mine. 👍
My pleasure. If you need ANY info or help shoot me a DM on Instagram bro!
Great vide bro, it helped me a lot! I'm putting my sr together now. I'm having trouble with the exhaust cam install. I lay it in at 12oclock, but it doesn't want to sit there well, then I lay caps on and hand snug everything in sequence but again the exhaust cam wants to sit at like 11-1130. I have to hold it at 12 while snugging the bolts, then when snugging in sequence it'll go back to 11-1130. I cant get to stay at 12oclock while torquing. What am I doing wrong? lol
uh you forgot two bolts from head to oil pump timing cover..
I assure you they were put in lol thanks!
really informative video, got one more drift event before my sr20 gets pulled for rebuild. thanks for the info king, ditch the rocker stoppers though lol
Appreciate the Vid! Also doing a build in the next week.
I might have to check that out! Thanks for your comment!
The O ring is 20 by 15mm Not 19 by 14.
on my sr it has rod knock in the bottom as previous owner mentioned and I opened the engine cover and the cams look brand new what should I be looking for as for the rod knocking, rebuilding my engine soon but want to look at the whole thing and see what’s up
Hi good afternoon I need help on a SR20DE I’m from South Africa my intake cam is worn why
Can the sr20 down flow manifold head work on the up flow block
part 3? complete final build
You don't happen to have a link to all the torque specs for the Sr ? I'm just about to put everything back together.
Sorry have had the sickness and been distracted with it recently. I don't but I will find or make one!
Thanks for the video man! Really enjoyed it
Why in the manual it say torque to 39n, 79n then loosen all bolts then 40n 90 degree 90 degree . Do you have to loosen all studs after 39n and 70n torque then do 40n then 90d etc.. ?
The OE service manual is usually accounting for bolt stretch as most of these fasteners are torque to yield i.e.: the bolt literally stretching under torque, many times it has you loosen then re torque to account for stretch and basically bedding the bolt in the threads accounting for proper lubrication using engine oil and all that. I believe on the actual ARP site and instructions its usually just 3 equal steps, but to answer your question you'd do the 39 then 79 then loosen all the fasteners and then go back and do your 40 +90 degrees. If you're using head studs and nuts after you snap them back loose i would just retorque the nut only because by "Loosen" I'd just break them back loose and do your second set. If there is anything else or if this is confusing DM me on Instagram we could always talk if needed! Good luck!
@@ShadeTreeGarage thanks mate. I got it. I was confused about why I have to loosen them after 2 set of torque. Now I get it. Just snap them loose after 2nd torque then do 40 and 2 90 degree turns.
@@harrish1978 You tha man! Killing it! feel free to share your build sometime man! Keep wrenching
@@ShadeTreeGarage Hey mate. Will it be an issue if I use rod no 4 on piston 3 piston. My piston 3 had a spun bearing it letf the rid and cap with few deep scratches. I hand sanded the crank using shoe laces method. But I don't think I can use the rod and cap. Thats why I need just 1 rid and cap.
What are the Arp Torque Specs for the head?
Good, useful video dude 👍👍👍
Where can I buy the block and other parts?
Is this the same for a Gtir?
Great video mate appreciate you ❤️
I'm putting new cams in my sr. I couldn't find a lot of information on the shims. Do I need to replace them. My plan was to take a caliber and measure each one and pair them with the closest?
You should replace them when doing cams on a SR. Many times people get away without doing it. Hopefully you’ve kept yours in order. The main point of the shim in SR is to keep the rockers from teeter tottering on the two springs. You want even height on the two valves and have the rocker be level theoretically.
This makes the job hard on SR because you need to measure total valve stem height of the non shimmed valve while it’s installed obviously and then find a shim to make the other one the same. Many people have made some jigs to do so, I’d look up how people measure stem height for sr’s and youll find some interesting homemade tools lol.
If you need help shoot me a pm on Insta.
Thanks for your repeated views and comments! You rock!
I'll DM you on Instagram. I'm having a hard time finding any help thanks a bunch!
Did you install the upper chain guide or it works fine without?
sorry buddy, I never do install the uppers anymore you can but I have been fine without!
ok thanks man
@@ShadeTreeGarage
Would’ve been good to know a little bit more about the headstuds they still confuse tf out of me. Don’t wanna mess it up
Sorry I hope its not too late! What is going on?
I lubricate them with the ARP lube. Spin them down with your hand as far as you can (BY HAND) I sometimes use a allen on the end to spin them till they stop quicker. Apply more lube on the nut end and place your washer and nut after the head, Then figure out the torque spec that ARP recommends, I think its 90 on SR Divide it in 3 equal steps and do them in the tightening order that factory recommends, so 30-60-90 ft lbs.
Let me know!
Did you use arp grease to lube your cams 😳
lol no that is STA lube Engine assembly lubricant
🔥🔥🔥